5 d Mark 3 low light Images = really slow!

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• Portege R700 webcam goes dark in low light conditions

  Hello

  Since I bought my Toshiba Portege R700 about a year ago I had problems with my webcam. I looked in several forums but couldn't find an answer. My build in webcam has problems of adaptation in the light of the room.

  When the room is dimly lit camera turns almost black after a few seconds. It is interesting enough before the camera darkens, he manages to produce a picture is ok for a few seconds, which means that the camera is capable of producing an image ok in low light conditions.

  She has just problems adjusting the brightness in the room when it is poorly lit. I propose to toshiba update the software of the camera, since it is clearly a matter of software. And yes I've tried every single possible configuration for the camera! And Yes, I also reinstalled (several times) the camera driver.

  I know that the camera performs well in places that have good lighting and so I'm only interested in improving my performance of cameras when not much light is available.

  Thank you very much
  Clem

  Hi dude

  I understand that you would expect webcam great performance in poor light environment but I put t do you think it would be possible to get the good quality photo using the laptop is dark rooms.

  The material of these small internal cams is limited and you see the same issues with other devices like smartphones cameras that resemble the internal cams s notebook.

  In addition, the webcam software that is preinstalled on my laptop Toshiba supports the night mode option that allows you to improve the quality of the obscure image in the Middle but of course you will not get the same image quality if you want to use the cam in the luminous environment

• Low light problems?

  I bought a camera Sony TX100V USA Store. Everything is ok, good, but using low lighting, when I take a shoot in a place very dark and wide, this camera for a picture very much reflected light as a bubble of water on the image (I don't know, flash maybe). Now, I will send you pictures 02. You can see and check taken by me or the camera. Yes, by me, how to reset. Because it is the software of the camera (edit mode,...) or by material (objective,...) and how can I solve this problem?

  my configuration is: case flast auto, car of intelligence, EV 0, auto macro, auto face detection, automatic AF illuminator car of red eyes

  link 02 photos:

  http://img815.imageshack.us/img815/8591/dsc00403mg.jpg

  http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/2417/dsc00404sw.jpg

  If you need the original image, here:
  http://www.mediafire.com/?ng6t3sv77tkrd

  Thank you, best regards.

  Hello
  Welcome to the Forums of Discussion of the user.

  First of all. the white dots that you see in the picture are the reflections of dust of your flash.
  Second, if you take pictures of distant in a very dark frame objects, auto and flash are not recommended as you try to keep light natural lots you can.

  Here are two basic settings help you to: ISO and EV (opening)

  The ISO is a speed rating for recording media that incorporates an image sensor that receives light. Even when the exposure is the same images differ according to the ISO.
  ISO
  http://eSupport.Sony.com/docs/dvimag/DS... 13/13.html

  EV
  http://eSupport.Sony.com/docs/dvimag/DS... 12/12.html

  If manual is a bit too advanced, try to use the parameter of 'Twilight' or 'twilight pocket. "
  These scene selections will allow you to shoot scenes of night to a far distance (your pier is a good example of it) without losing the dark atmosphere of the surrounding area.

  several are on the settings here:
  http://eSupport.Sony.com/docs/dvimag/DS... 09/09.html

• SLog2 in low light conditions

  Hello, hoping for some advice please. What about the slog2 being wonderful shooting large latitudes in broad daylight and in situations where preserving highlights important - is fair to say then that slog2 so not ideal for low light dark environments?

  That is to say, if the ideal place for shades of skin and the gray card is at 30-33 with slog2, then in the dark light scenarios / low we lose many details in shadows etc that might otherwise be exposed to.

  We therefor more easy shooting with hyper gamma or curves standard to allocate more data to the shadow and thus pull complexion and gray at 40-50 IRE and keep sLog2 of shooting for higher latitude stuff? Or are there benefits for your stay on slog2 all the time if you're happy to be ranking images in any case post?

  I think I know the answer here, but I was hoping to get some thoughts to this certain f55/5 users that pass between the curves according to the scenarios.

  I do not have a raw box with my f55 kit, so I'm looking forward to stretch and control capabilities in camera and latitude, as much as I can.

  Thank you
  Tom

  Http://www.tomdavid.com.au

  What you're missing is that with the S - Log, and using the good LUT in post, these shadow detail who look as if they were in the mud in the eyepiece arose at appropriate levels. There are more bits (steps of BRIGHTNESS) in the shade to be "brought back to the top" in post.

  The only drawback is that it does not relieve a little noise. If you want to keep the same level of noise as a Hypergamma, just expose it to IE even as a Hypergamma (500, 600, etc.). You better stay right in S-Log2/SGamut and exposing more hot (that is to say 600ISO) and lose this stop on the high end.

  Mixing and matching SLog/Sgamut with hypergammas would be a nightmare for a colorist. They don't look not anywhere close to the same thing, and they do not meet the colors even. I didn't do it.

• Shooting in low light

  I'm experimenting with night shooting, and there's a tree in my yard that I really care about photography. There is a light on her porch, and I see it very well.  I learned about "light bulb" taken in manual mode and used in other situations of low light, but for some reason that I can't get the camera to fire.  It focuses and then place in the viewfinder turns red, instead of green.  I think it's really important to note that I see this tree very well.  So why not my camera?

  A flashlight often provides enough reflected for the autofocus light work. Once the lens is worn switch to manual focus.

  Use the judgement on the size of your flashlight. A single LED won't do much, but a D Maglite 3 cell works in many situations. Don't forget to adjust your Aperture for your depth of field in short stays, so the furthest and closest to foliage will be clear (or whatever effect you want). Also have had good luck using laser pointers as a beam focus...

• Shutter speed too slow AV mode for sunrise timelapse (low light)

  Hi all!

  First, I'm a bit embarressed to ask this question because I am sure that its entry level but stuff I posted in several other forums to establish what is the problem im trying and I now reduced to a simple question... I think so..

  I'm trying to shoot a timelapse of the sunrise. At dawn when the unit is in AV mode, due to the low light it seems be frezzing up when I go to take a picture. I realize now its not freeze until his tusing simply a shutter speed to compensate for the lack of light.

  The problem is, I see a lot of tutorials of timelapse of Sunrise, and they all recommend using AV mode because of the changing light conditions.  (I had to use manual mode with a small opening in the end and to halfway through once the Sun rose my photos were all horribly over exposed)

  How can I combat the problem of low light in order to use my camera in AV mode for photos with 4 second intervals?

  At the moment I can't use it at dawn because the shutter speed slows down so that it does not make a timelapse.

  Any comments would be massivly appriecated.

  Thank you!

  OK, let's go.

  AV and Tv are really semi-manuel exposure modes.  You are setting the aperture or the shutter and waiting for the camera to select the oppisite.  If you have selected an Av which requires a shutter speed too long to take the correct exposure, you will get very long shutter.

  You can up the ISO, or select a larger BC.

• F55 low light bands and noise

  Need help.

  We have some problems when shooting in low light.

  http://antosch.dyndns.TV/owncloud/index.php/s/mKOEqbsXQrwFVSn

  You can see bands and noise in the viewfinder and screen on board as well as on the pictures.

  Also more brightness also enhance the effect.

  The parameters are:

  AE Slog3 movie

  MPEG 25 1920 x 1080 p

  Exhibition index 3200

  MLUT LC709 Type A for the viewfinder and SDI

  
  

• T3i does AF in low light DISCOS more (using 550 ex)

  I do disco photography and I've had my t3i for about 2 years now and I use the 550 ex.  Recently, the red light blinks when I try to get a focus in low light using the kit lens.

  I know that red light works because I used it with a trigger and I put the flash on a 7 d and it works very well.  In order to get a update now in the Dim light, I have to use a secondary video light for the camera to focus.  The AF works very well in regular light and dim light - but not in a dark nightclub (but it used to).

  Make sure that your device is set to 'One Shot' AF as support on the flash light does not work if the unit is in "AI Servo" AF.

• Problems with low light action on 70 d calls

  I have just spent a T3i to a 70 d. I seem to have trouble with the plans of action in low light situations, suggestions on implementing...

  Nelly wrote:
  

  cicopo wrote:

  You might find some ideas here.

  A better idea would be for the OP to give us an idea of what is meant by 'disorder '. Without knowing what the real problem, make suggestions are going to be a waste of time.

  More information would be useful.  But I bet confidently on the sentence "my photos are blurry" my silver or black.

• dschx300b-noisy/nervousness/video all in 3/4 full max zoom... of the day or low light... anyone?

  just bought a refurbished dschx300b from sony... when in video mode, the picture is noisy/unstable to 3/4 full max zoom... lighting is not serious... I reset the camera... even... everyone?

  In addition, zoom to this length, noise and excitement is natural.
  Noise because the opening became smaller (more large number f), causing it to have less light entering the lens, making the sensor to the ISO, which makes it more sensitive, so more noise.
  You mention that is happening in the light of the day and the low light, I guess the ISO can be manually set to something high, that then maybe, take a look at the ISO in video mode settings, to see what ISO has been affected.

  In addition, with zoom, small handmovements will look great on the screen - just do sure SteadyShot is enabled to minimize the effect Falters as possible in the final video.

  Now, if this isn't what you mean by hopping, but maybe a constant vibration or such, etc., just something constant, I think it's time to get this guy here send for verification and replacement.

• Low light lens

  Hello world

  I am a beginner in photography and would like to receive your comments and advice.  I did some research and planned on getting a Nex 6 or A 6000 depending on the difference in price when the 6000 will be available in April.  I especially film indoor, low light and sports action of my son.  According to information I found on the net, the sel35f18 seems to be a good choice of lens that fit best for my films.  Any comment or other suggestion of lens?

  Thank you!

  
  

• I recently updated the Canon mark II to the mark iii, and the images taken of the mark iii will not make previews in bridge. Bridge will show previews for the images taken with the mark ii, but not the mark iii. I have adobe cc and use

  recently updated the Canon mark II, mark iii, and the images taken of the mark iii will not make previews in bridge. Bridge will show previews for the images taken with the mark ii, but not the mark iii. I have adobe cc and am using camera raw 9.2. I checked the updates and it is said that there is not. I also tried to purge the cache several times and that didn't work either. Any help with this would be so appreciated its driving me crazy!

  Take a look at this: generic icons | Files camera raw | Adobe Bridge

• I shoot a video with a very good HD camcorder, unfortunately it was a very low light so now my video is very dark, but with very good exhibitions. Please can I do for this video it was 2 long hours of lighting

  I shoot a video in a very low light arena now my video is very dark is there a way I can light up to make nice please

  Have you tried this grade in Premiere Pro?

• I need an update to Camera Raw for CS6 for the new Olympus 4/3 MDG E - M5 MARK II process my images.  How can I get it?

  I need an update to Camera Raw for CS6 for the new Olympus 4/3 MDG E - M5 MARK II process my images.  How can I get it?

  There is a problem. Adobe Camera Raw has not been updated in a few months and this camera has just been published.

  However, Olympus provides a raw plug-in that works with Photoshop.

  Software download | Olympus High Res shooting Raw Photoshop plug-in file. OLYMPUS IMAGING

• Is it possible to add a water mark on the uploaded images

  Hi guys,.
  
  Is it possible to add a water mark on the downloaded images. I searched on the web, that it could be done with PHP, but what about APEX?
  
  Kind regards
  Fateh

  Fateh says:
  Hi guys,.

  Is it possible to add a water mark on the downloaded images. I searched on the web, that it could be done with PHP, but what about APEX?

  Watermark is available using the Oracle Multimedia Image Processing ORDImage object. The static methods provided in the ORDImage relational interface are the best approach for use with images related to APEX which are not stored in form of ORDImages. The documentation provides some simple examples.