I can trigger a flash remotely from the EOS Utility?

Hello. I am a total newbie, so forgive me if my question is very basic or confused.

I just bought a Rebel T5i (literally, my first ever buy SLR) and have been using the EOS utility to be able to "live view" on my desktop screen. It seems to work pretty well.

However, I am interested with the addition of a flash remotely as a Speedlite flash, to be placed between the subject and background. Will be a remote flash correctly from live view EOS Utility work? Should it be a Speedlite flash, or can it be a third flash?

I'm not too considered with flash quality as much as I just want to be able to take pictures with the EOS Utility live view, with the remote flash fires to light a backdrop behind the subject.

Thank you!

As Ernie points out... the computer simply tells the camera when taking the shot.  If the camera has a flash, then the camera fires the flash when he takes this one.

But your question is loaded with some nuances and it is not just a direct response.

A Canon T5i has the ability to fire distance a Canon speedlite if three conditions are met:

(1) the flash must support E - TTL

(2) the flash must support E - TTL mode 'slave' (and that the mode must be enabled - it will not be enabled by default.)

(3) flash must be direct "corridor" between the camera and remotely.

The camera itself needs to be said that it is in a mode where the flash pop up on the device will work as a 'master' to trigger a remote flash.

But you mentioned that you wanted to put this flash to distance between a subject and the context - which implies that 'line of sight' is not possible.  Who calls other WIRING.

You can learn a lot about flash systems Canon E - TTL of the "Manual of the Speedlighter" (by Syl Arena), but this book has not been updated (as far as I know) to include systems flash triggered by Canon's new radio.

To do this with the Canon gear, you want a transmitter of radio ST-E3-RT (which amounts to the hoof as a flash camera) and then use a flash Canon Speedlight with a suffix 'RT' such as flash 600EX-RT (flash light) or the new 430EX III - RT.  All products of "RT" communicate by radio and do not require a line of sight direct.

It is also possible to do with budget gear..., you can get a pair of transceivers trigger... we're going on the device and the other goes hand in hand with the remote flash.  These radio triggers are not "E - TTL", which means that the camera and the flash will not be able to communicate and negotiate the amount of energy must be used for shooting "on the fly" (as can an E - TTL flash).  This means that you will need to manually set the power level you want to use.

Having to use manual flash should not be terribly difficult to learn.  The flash and the camera usually automatically set your power level, as it would for E - TTL flashes.  You control the light, by adjusting the power level of the flash (manually) or by moving the flash closer or away from your topic (or using the flash light modifiers) more, or by adjusting the opening of the camera.

This works well in a situation of type 'studio', where you can control the power settings.  But for photography of the 'event' where you have to shoot on-the-fly and you "-over" If rush you the shot, you have to learn the flash behavior before the shooting. For me, it means creating a table which indicates (for any given on the flash power level) f-stop, should I use any flash-to-subject distance given.  I used usually non-zooms at this time, but I knew that, for example, a shot of 'dance' a couple of size - up to (what we call a "half coup" because we have only half upper body of our subject) was f/16 at ISO 100.  A length of 3/4 shot (essentially from the knees upwards) was f/11.  A shot of 'length' was f/8, and a group shot can be f/5.6 or even f/4.

It necessary to the good days past tests and completing such a table.  You won't have the time to refer to such a table, but I mentally memorized by distance because the subject framing was a good consistent indicator of distance.  (it is a bit more complicated with zooms because you can change the subject framing without changing the distance).   But in the end, you find yourself in a situation where you go back to a subject at a demonstration, the frame of the shooting, set the aperture value and capture the image and know that you nailed the exposure even if the whole system is manual.

There are a lot of tutorials on the use of the manual of flash and inexpensive triggers to the Strobist blog (strobist.blogspot.com).

I use the Canon system.  I use the Canon ST-E3-RT trigger a few flashes 600EX-RT.  The system is rock solid... it always works.

Tags: Canon Camera

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