Inherited a Rebel XTi

Similar Questions

• upgrade for rebel xti lenses

  I have a Rebel xti. I thought best to upgrade the lenses before buying new camera body. L-series lenses work effectively with xti?

  + 1 for lenses before body.

  Now, I don't know that I would like to make a general statement that you need a L lens.  At least, not if you have two non - L for the price of a L and significantly expand your range of glass.

  What goals do you have?  What kind of photography do you have / want to do?  Finally pass you to full frame?

  Respond to those, and then decide what to supplement or replace.  If it's just replacing kit lens (s) then I would recommend looking at something like the 18-55 / 2.8 or the 15-85.  The 24-105 L is an objective quality and very cheap for an L, but the focal range is not quite as convenient on a culture as a full frame.  The bonus, which is fine, if you ever decide to go FF then you have lenses that will work.

  There are also primes non - L, which are large, like the 100/2.8 macro, 85/1.8 or 50/1.4.  Depends on what you are looking for.

• I need the cd for a rebel xti eos

  I'm new to the canon line, I just bought a well taken cared of eos rebel xti, but the previous owner lost the cd that came with the camera is - anyone know where I can get another drive.

  Go here:

  http://www.USA.Canon.com/Cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_6d#DriversAndSoftware

  Download the EOS Solutions disk

• Canon Rebel XTI, which does not. Totally dead!

  Canon Rebel XTI just stop working.  Nothing lights at all!  Does not illuminate nothing.  I have 2 batteries completely charged and tried both with no joy.  I put a new battery in the clock and still nothing.  I removed the lens and flash and nothing map lights.  I did the hard reset and still nothing lights up.  This camera was not left to fall and everything just stop itself.  I cleaned all the contacts as well and checked the switch and switch battery door flash card.  DEAD!

  Isn't anyone do anything that lasts longer?  This isn't a cheap camera and it SHOULDN'T stop working on its own and if so CANON should repair at our expense.

  I think I've tried all the fixes I can find on Google.  If anyone here knows a fix I na not try then please let me know.

  I thought CANON was a quality company.

  This is why my Canon camera has crashed.  There was a loose piece, I could hear the rattling around inside the camera body, so I disassembled the body in order to open the body and see what fell.  When I opened the bottom of the body a small silver screw fell out of the body.  Apparently this happens to be a problem with this model and perhaps others.  A screw of the motherboard itself cancels them and rolls around inside body camera power DC/DC Board shorting out and blowing the fuse marked 'P' on the power Board. When I put a meter across the fuse it reads infinity brief death instead of a normal life.

  How to unscrew a screw located inside a camera body.  This isn't a problem of software or an electronic failure problem and this camera would still work right now if the screw had not accrued and shorted out my camera.  Canon answer is of course that they no longer service this camera.

• My Macbook will link is no longer with my Canon Rebel xti.

  I yosemeti 10.10.3 on my Mac. I use to be able to download with ease, but at some point, after some pictures I've updated preseume, I am no longer able to make my computer detect my Canon camera. I used 2 types of USB card like a card reader. Nothing works. Help, please.

  See this:

  http://www.pntbrother.com/MacBook-Pro-USB-ports-not-working-reading-solution/

• 18-55mm of an old XTi lens: need to upgrade for image stabilization?

  I have a lens EFS 18-55 m supplied with an old Canon Rebel XTi (from 2006?) I'm looking to upgrade to a new body, but I don't know if I have to / should upgrade the goal too.

  My main concern is this old lens has image stabilization, or if the new lenses are much better image stabilization (enough to justify an upgrade to a new lens.) Anyone know?

  Thanks in advance!

  The reason IS is valuable on this focal length is, it is so slow that anyone holding going to need all the help they can get.  They are OK for light of day but go inside and a slow lens needs help.

  I would buy the new version of the EF-S 18-55mm STM with IS.  Especially in the kit as it is a good deal.  Not only a goal faster when we focus, the optics are better, too.

• New goal for general use

  Hello

  Recently, I bought my 1st DSLR canon 50 d, and now I'm looking to get a new lens.
  I had some goals in mind, but I can't just decide. For example Canon 17-40mmf / 4l was my 1st choice good price but apparently he does well on the cameras of the harvest, and lack of IS puts me in. So there are 18-35mm F1.8 DC HSM Sigma Sigma but it is massive, and I do not know, also lack IS. Finally my 3rd choice Canon EF 16-35mm f / 4L is but a bit expensive.
  So my question is who would be better suited general purpose use a bit of landscape pictures of my portraits of cat etc.

  Thank you

  Pete

  «For example Canon 17-40mmf / 4l was my 1st choice good price but apparently he does well on the crop cameras,...» »

  This is absurd.  I used it on Rebel XTi for years.  It works very well.  If you want it, ask for it.

  "... lack of IS makes me to stop."

  You will never miss on this goal.  The other lenses are nice, but they are not in the same class as that goal, except the Canon EF 16-35mm f / 4L.  The 17-40mm is a lens, you can buy once and move it will stay with you how far you go in photography.  The others are not.  Don't forget a goal, or camera, is a sum of its specifications and not one!  Examine everything it has to offer.

• Novice question

  Hello all - I'm new to the gun world and I learn as much as possible every day. I have a Canon Rebel XTI EOS with lens 18-55 mm standard.

  I would like to take the next step and get one better lens (s) - one to close upwards, portaits (top opening) and the other for daily use.  For the most part, I take picture of children and family - so it will be running and various light most of the time.

  My budget is alo limited in the sense that I can't afford most of 1000,00 versions

  Right now I'm looking for something that will give more the f3.5 and sharper images.

  I know that everyone has asked around but the device model photo that I was not... but I'm sure that most of the lens should work.

  Thank you.

  Adrian

  Adrian,

  Portraits: anything between 50 and 85 will be good for portraits if the aperture is f/2.8 or wider. 50 mm would be double that shooting for general use. 85 mm could double as a telephoto modest if you shoot children running outside autour where they are a little further away, but would be more difficult to use indoors where you can't stand back 15-20 feet to shake 2 people on board. 60 mm would be good at portraits but would do double duty as a macro lens too.

  Landscape: Landscape is USUALLY done with a wider lens, but not always. To do this, you could stick with the end of your 18mm kit lens. Landscapes do not move so if you use a tripod you can shoot with a narrow opening for a large depth of field in short (such as f/11 or f/16) because you can set hours of crazy-long shutter, as 1 second or 30 seconds or 1 minute or just what you need.

  Use: for plans to use general, you probably want something wider than for portraits, and you can crop the image a bit in post if necessary. 40mm would be very good for this.

• Best upgrade

  I bought a Canon EOS Rebel XTi camera in a package deal a few years back that came with an EFS 18-55mm and EF 75-300 zoom. It was a good setup for me, but what would be the best thing that I could buy to make it better? Something or a combination of things under a cople of hundred dollars. I am a novice.

  "Hundreds of dollars" will not go very far, I fear.

  1 LENS.

  The first thing I would suggest that you consider, especially for landscape photography, is a lens wide angle... But most cost $500 or more. Among these, the Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM is one of the best... but it's also more than you say you want to spend.

  A new and lower price alternative is the new EF-S 10-18mm IS STM Canon has just announced. I haven't used (few people have) because it is not in stock, any where, again... and can be a little difficult to find a little time. This lens seems to be reasonably compact (67 mm filter uses) and will be sold for about $300. Also, the sun visor sold separately (EW - 73) is not quite yet available, but seems to be priced below $ 30. Not sure that I need IS on a lens with short focal lengths... but, Hey, it never hurts to have! STM focus drive must be good, too. Now, none of us have had the chance to use this lens, but taking the cannon in the word with what they say about this, must be very nice.

  Other things that may be in your budget "hundreds of dollars"...

  2 TRIPOD

  If you do not already have one, I would say a good tripod.  But, be careful. Don't go too cheap, too compact nor too light with this, or you will not find the use or by replacing enough fast. One who seems a very good deal for me is the Adorama Flashpoint F1228 kit for about $220 including delivery. It is a clone of tripod Gitzo 'Series 2' journalist, with a fairly standard carbon fiber, but decent looking ball head with quick release. (I use several real Gitzo, which are excellent, but much more expensive, but I also use a lot of heavier cameras and lenses that you).

  I have also heard good things about Dolica tripods, but have no real experience with them. They offer several models of carbon fiber, which is what I would recommend. There are a few other quite affordable brands, but also some that are much more expensive. Just be careful, check out them in person if possible, and try to avoid too light, fragile, and poorly made.

  Purchased on the right, a tripod can be a single purchase. A carbon fiber tripod is a little more expensive, but it is lighter than the tripod in aluminium of the same capacity. In addition, carbon fiber absorbs vibrations small, where the 'rings' metal and reverberates. In addition, the CF is a little nicer to handle hot and cold weather.

  A tripod is a number of things for you and a lot of landscape photographers wouldn't think of shooting without having a. Of course, a tripod stabilizes your shot and allows you to make longer than computer possible exposures of pocket. Another thing that makes tripod is to force you to slow down and examine more carefully the are you will take. This usually results in much nicer pictures. Someone once said do arrows multiple panoramas and a tripod will help well do, too.

  3 LENS HOODS

  If you don't already have them, download the lens hood for your lenses. I believe that the 18-55mm uses a hood EW - 63C and 75-300 uses a hood AND-60. Just get into the habit of using lens hoods. They protect your lenses from the oblique light and physical shocks. I see people shot without condoms all the time... and that makes no sense at all to me. A lens hood is a simple, fast & easy to use and inexpensive accessory that can only help your images. I rarely shoot without having a.

  4 FILTERS

  And, if you don't already have some, a filter or two can be really useful. First of all, I would recommend a circular polarizer of quality. I think that your 18-55mm lens uses 58 mm filters (double check that) and I would say one to fit this lens first, since it is probably the lens you will use for landscape photography. A C - Pol filter will deepen the blue of the sky and make the white clouds "pop." It also intensifies colors by reflections of the cup of the foliage and other surfaces. You can use this control reflections on water and other surfaces, too. It is one of the more widely useful filters, as well as one of the most impossible to reproduce with digital software. I recommend B + W MRC XS - Pro and Kaesemann. Hoya HD, HD2, HMC a SHMC. and Marumi DHG. Among others. You do not want a C - POL on your lens all that time... he cuts one or two stops of light. But you will find it useful several times, once you learn to use it.

  Another type of filter that is popular is a neutral density or ND. These animals are generally gray, come in variable strength and are used to reduce the one of light reaching the sensor, so speeds that shutter slower and more large openings can be used on purpose. You've probably seen these picturesque shots with water mobile search creamy... If a stream, waterfall or ocean suft. Most of these types of shots require a kind of ND filter, when shooting with a digital camera. This is because most of the digital cameras am below ISO 100 or even 200. Some go to ISO 50. This limits the slow shutter speed can be used when shooting in daylight. If you receive this type of filter, you'll want to probably a few different strong points... they come in one, two, three, 5, 8, 10 and even more stop strengths. There is 'variable' (turn to change resistance, similar to a C - Pol), but these tend to give unequal effects and sometimes cause unwanted color shades. Note: ND filters are also often needed for videography, where the limits of frame rates limit the opening which can be used in available light.

  Another type of filter which is historically very popular among landscape photographers is the Neutral Density or ND Grad degree. These are half clear, half gray in different dosages and are used to balance a too bright sky with a foreground of an image, for example. With this type of filter, do not buy the round, screw type. You must be able to position the line of gradation differently for each image, so need to use the rectangular type of the filter, which fits into a special bracket that mounts to the front of the lens, allowing you to rotate and slide the filter if necessary.

  I have a nice set of graduates ND dating of when I shot with the film, but frankly I hardly use them more. Shooting digital, I can now do a better job with post-processing... techniques combining several exhibitions or multi-processing a single RAW file and then recombine the part "correctly exposed" of each. It's much more accurate, precise and controllable was always possible with filters.

  5. THE SOFTWARE

  But this brings us to another thing... If not already done, learn RAW and post-process your images. Canon delivered provided with your camera software is very good, but you might want to look at an all-in-one package with some features, such as Adobe Elements. If so, get a book or two on this issue, too... to help you get up to speed using it quickly and more easily. RAW image files are like a digital negative, of sorts. That's all what the camera captured at the time of exposure, but almost always need little more work so that it becomes an image can be used (JPEG, TIFF, PNG or other). However, a shot in-camera JPEG throws a lot of data and is much less "adjustable" afterwards... then you must get your exposure settings, white balance, etc. right the first time... There are fewer opportunities to change or correct later.

  6 CALIBRATION

  You can also consider calibration of your computer. There are various devices and software for this purpose, but the general idea is that most computer monitors do not give very loyal and almost all colors are much, much too bright. This makes it difficult to work accurately with your images and can lead you to a blumenthals trying to make prints. The secret is the calibration. This doesn't have to be outrageously expensive... and can pay for itself if you do a lot of prints, saving paper and ink or pulled apart if you send your print.

  7. BOOKS & CLASSES

  In general, the book of $18 "Understanding Exposure" by Brian Peterson may be the best money you ever spend on your photography. I highly recommend, regardless of your level of experience, but especially for novices. Buy it. Read. Investigate it. Learn it. Your photography will be much better and you'll get the most out of your equipment.

  There are other good books that you can watch. Some are specific to your camera in particular, guides that will help you make the most out it. Others are specific to a type of material or technical photography. Look for things that most of you are interested in.

  Or, you could take a few classes or seminars... or get involved in a photography club... or sign up for a visit in pictures or safari. This can be a great way to learn and develop your skills and too. May be as good an investment as the train would be.

  I suggest also that put you in place a plan, future gear updated level or additions to work when the budget allows. For example, maybe you don't shoot macro now, but I would like to try your hand at it in the future. It could be any number of things... Justg begin to search for and develop a list of things you want to try or items you want to improve. It may be a simple upgrade. For example, if yours is the kit lens 18-55mm that was originally supplied with the XTi, ago most recent and IS a version improved the EF-S 18 - 55 EF-S 18-55 IS STM. Update "Stepper Motor" of the latter is faster, quieter and more precise. An upgrade even more high-end and, of course, the most expensive would be the lens EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS USM.

  Don't know how use you it, but there are also a number of improvements since the 75- 300 mm you have. The most affordable is the EF-S 55-250mm, now also with the STM focus drive. There are also several 70- 300 L IS USM is the most award-winning build and image quality. One of the EF 70-200mm lenses would be very nice upgrades, too... These are real 'horse' lenses that you find in bags for cameras in most of the pro shooters. The IS versions of them are stabilized, which may be important for telephoto lenses. The f4 versions are more compact and lighter weight, which might be nice for travel.

  You do not have the funds to one of them now, but someday you might. And if you have a capital plan that you want to add or upgrade in the future, you can prioritize according to your needs and usage and to start working with the eventual upgrade. No plan is set in stone, either. You can always change, if your needs or modification of the options available.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• 'Import pictures and videos' parameters collapsed at work after the installation of Windows Live Essentials

  Hi guys,.
  Today in the morning, when you import pictures from my Canon EOS Rebel Xti, I tried to change some settings in the dialog box "import pictures and videos" and to my surprise the link (button) Options does not work. I used to change the folder where the files would be saved or if the images would be deleted or no device.
  I think that it has become defective after the instalation of Windows Live Photo (Essentials), have you heard of this issue before? Is there a solution? Should I uninstall the Windows Live?
  I prefer to use the dialog box "Import pictures like videos" for most of my daily imports.
  Thanks in advance
  Aluisio
  OS: Vista Edition Home Premium
  Sao Paulo/Brazil

  Hi Aluisio Macedo,

  Return the items.

  Troubleshoot AutoPlay

  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows7/Troubleshoot-AutoPlay-problems

  How can I get pictures from my camera to my computer?

  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows7/how-do-I-get-pictures-from-my-camera-to-my-computer

  If the problem persists, you can post your query in Windows Live Solution Center for better support.

  http://www.windowslivehelp.com/product.aspx?ProductID=20

• AutoPlay no longer works for the camera!

  Also recently that 2 months ago, I was able to connect my canon rebel xti on my laptop Windows 7 x 64 and would get an autoplay prompt to import the photos.  All of a sudden now when I plug the camera in I hear the sound that the usb device is recognized and I can see the camera to the computer, but I no longer get the autoplay popup.  I went in the AutoPlay settings and reset default but still do not get the command prompt.  I can still manually launch Live Photo Gallery and import like this but I liked to get the command prompt, AutoPlay works fine for DVD, USB keys, etc but not the camera.

  If I connect the camera on my Win 7 32 bit Office the guest of AutoPlay works fine, something get corrupted on my laptop somehow?

  Well, I tell myself I will update this when everyone was waiting with a similar problem, my laptop was overheating problems and had replaced it under warranty mobo, I thought he was as good time as any which for a re - install Windows 7 costs.  So far, automatic the camera works fine.

• Unable to show the 700 d even canon RAW photo files after download of Canon codec.

  Just got a new digital camera from canon 700 d. updated canon 400 d.

  I am using windows 7 32-bit and used to be able to view raw photos in my old 400 d windows Explorer, but now I get an error message saying that windows is not recogise the raw format. I have updated to the last cannon and the microsoft codecs, but still cannot display files.

  Thank you

  This is because the codec does not yet support your camera according to the http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=26829

  • Microsoft Camera Codec Pack provides support for the following formats of device:
  • Canon: Digital Rebel XT, Digital Rebel XTi, EOS 10 d, EOS 20 d, EOS 30 d, EOS 40 d, EOS 50 d Digital, EOS 60 d, EOS 300 d, EOS 350 d, EOS 400 d, EOS 450 d, EOS 500 d, EOS 550 d, EOS 600 d, EOS 650 d, EOS 1000 d, EOS1100D, EOS 5 d, EOS 5 d Mark II, EOS 5 d Mark III, EOS 6 d, EOS 7 d Digital, EOS D30, EOS D60, EOS Digital Rebel, EOS Kiss Digital , EOS Kiss Digital N, EOS Kiss Digital X, EOS Kiss F, EOS Kiss X 2, EOS Kiss X 3, EOS Kiss X 4, EOS Kiss X 5, EOS Kiss X6i, EOS Kiss X 50, M EOS, EOS Rebel T1i, EOS Rebel T2i, EOS Rebel T3, EOS Rebel T3i, EOS Rebel T4i, EOS Rebel XS, EOS Rebel XSi, EOS - 1 d, EOS - 1 d, EOS - 1 d Mark II , EOS - 1 d Mark II N, EOS - 1 d Mark III, EOS - 1 d Mark IV, EOS - 1Ds, EOS - 1Ds Mark II, EOS - 1Ds Mark III, PowerShot G1 X G2, PowerShot G3 PowerShot, PowerShot G5, G6 PowerShot, PowerShot G9, PowerShot G10, PowerShot G11, PowerShot G12, PowerShot G15, PowerShot Pro1, PowerShot S90, PowerShot S95, PowerShot S100, PowerShot S110, PowerShot SX1 IS, PowerShot HS SX50

  and read the info on the Canon site, their codec stand alone does not support the 700 d.

  See if FastStone http://www.faststone.org/FSViewerDetail.htm works with your new camera.

  --
  Barb

  MVP Windows Entertainment and connected home

  My Blog - http://digitalmediaphile.com/

  Application Windows 8 Blog Reader of Barb connected world - http://apps.microsoft.com/windows/en-us/app/barbs-connected-world-blog/02f35769-52bf-461c-b1d5-06e54a58d298

• Camera RAW plugin for Photoshop 8 does not work

  I downloaded Camera RAW 5.6 plugin following the instructions for use with a Canon EOS Rebel xTi.  The file downloaded and was glued in the appropriate folder (C:\Program Files (x 86) \Common Files\Adobe\Plug - Ins\Elements 8\File Formats\). And when the RAW file does not open yet I downloaded Camera RAW 6.2 plug-in and stuck in the same folder as above. When I could not access the plug-in Photoshop elements 8.0, I tried help-updates to date. I can not even access or open RAW files. How can I solve this problem?

  PSE8 is a 32-bit program.

  You must have downloaded the plug-in for CS5.

  Remove the 64-bit file and start using the link I gave.

• Imports to Lightroom even my vertical horizontal photos!

  Well, the title says it all. When I import pictures directly from the camera (Canon Rebel XTi) or the card reader, it imports all the files as the horizontals, including verticals of course. Now, when they are displayed in Lightroom (1 or 2), the verticals are correctly oriented, however if I go to my pictures/somepicturefolder/and look at the real files, the vertical lines are horizontal.

  Of course, this becomes quite annoying when I don't want to export all the images I import new everywhere just to guide correctly if I want to send the new files to a friend or print them. Also, if I want to turn the original good orientation vertical in the Viewer Windows images or anything else (remember, I can't rotate in lightroom because they are at the vertical as they should be when displayed in the library), it then show these files incorrectly in Lightroom, but also unsyncing metadata and all that jazz.

  This can become very boring, and honestly, I have no idea why it does. My brother use and mac and when it downloads images from the camera even (which has the auto-rotation on) it displays normally for him on his computer, (Macs are always better...)

  So, if it is a problem that has been posed before, I apologize, but it's very frustrating!

  There is nothing that Lightroom can do about it. It is something that the camera manufacturers have standardized on. Most of the cameras that support automatic orientation store the orientation of the camera in the form of metadata, as well as your file if it is jpeg or raw. Lightroom knows this indicator and auto rotates the picture when he sees it. Most applications on the Mac are familiar with this indicator. Many apps on windows you've discovered ignore it and so they don't know they are supposed to rotate the image for display. If you want the images correctly oriented in apps that aren't aware of outside of Lightroom rotation indicator, you need to export.

• The rebels x3i (600 d) auto focus not working not not in Zone creation mode. Works very well in the basic modes.

  I bought a refurbished Canon Canon x3i after my extended warranty Ritz camera became useless and my xTi (400 d) died last summer. The camera has been excellent until very recently.

  About a week or two ago the autofocus stopped working. I think it all started when I decided to try the objective of refurbished Canon 50mm 1.8 that I bought on the internet. He has not worked for that lens, and has not worked in the design area since.

  There is an asterisk (*) in the lower left corner of the viewfinder. It is an indicator of progress of AE. There is no active focus. Sometimes, the nine of them will be light, but it doesn't mean anything.

  Based on responses from other posts on the forum, I tried different objectives EOS (I have two rebel film cameras) and I tried the LiveView. The same problem. I can live with the situation, but, obviously, I'd rather not.

  Naturally, the manual focus works fine.

  The pins on the camera look and feel fine - no elbows or broken bits. The pins look good, too, even the 50mm lenses.

  (I have not contacted Canon, yet, because the after-sales guarantees are usually 30 to 90 days, but I will contact them tomorrow)

  I don't think that you have found the free camera.  You MUST clear all settings.  Looks like you have memorization of commissioning.