Ink spot

Similar Questions

• There is a large "ink-spot" on the menu bar.

  There is a large black-ink task that covers a part of the menu bar. How can I get rid of him? I uninstalled Firefox and installed again and the stain is still there.

  It seems that you have installed a character unknowingly. To disable it, go to Tools > Modules > appearance. Select default, and then click Activate.
  
  For more information on themes, see use themes to change the appearance of Firefox.

• color rich black spot

  Hello indesigners.

  an intense black to become a spot color if I choose to accompany the process color?

  and can a white or black become a spot colors or these 2 colors are considered simple shades?

  Thank you.

  All that will do is give the guy the press an extra plate - which is a complete waste of time and money.

  In printing, the colors are separated to CMYK plates, this is known as the printing process.

  For colors that fall outside the CMYK range (range of colours as only so many colors can be achieved by the mixture of these 4 inks), Spot colors, producing an extra plate, so you'd find you with CMYK + 1 Spot boards.

  There is no need to decide here.

  If you are using a new black color and change this to a Spot - then You ' l end up with 2 plates for printing - which is not necessary.

  You have even make a new shade - just choose 95% black for the color of things if that's what you want.

  If you do not understand this, I suggest that you talk to your printers and the guy from the press on how best to configure your color chart for the draw.

  For the record - 95% black is NOT dark black. Rich Black is a combination of a Cyan, Magenta or yellow with 100% Black - for example, 50% Cyan, and 100% black.

  And it does not need to be a Spot color - if you're not a spot color, and then the press will have to be around a 50% Cyan Ink and 100% Black - produce an extra plate, run an extra plate - and all this costs money. When it is completely useless. As they already use CMYK plates - so you can produce the Rich Black using CMYK plates.

  Yet once, if you don't understand that then I suggest you talk to your printers, go to visit them and get a clearer picture of the operation of the printing process.

• Black finger across the screen to the bottom only in locked mode - retina 2014

  Mine is a MacBook Pro (retina, 15 inches, mi 2014) 2.2 GHz with integrated display. When I opened the laptop this morning, I was welcomed by a screen locked and noticed a black spot on the lower part of the screen. My heart sank for a moment, but when I logged in, I did not notice the finger any longer.

  I see the black spot that looks like an ink spot (see photo) when I get back to screen locked again. What is an LCD failure or is there something else going on? If it's an LCD has failed, why not see the problem when it is unlocked? How to fix? Thanks for any help.

  

  Notice the black spot. The white point at the bottom left of the screen above is just the cursor hidden.

  

  No stain when unlocked can be exceeded.

  Could be a hardware failure.  If you bought AppleCare, you have 3 years warranty on the material and can diagnose the Genius Bar it repair free of charge - it is reproducible, so you can show them.

• HP Envy 4500 series: print 'Photo printing without borders' and 'best quality '.

  Problem: It only prints in the borderless Photo printing option.

  Text in black it prints appears in gray.

  It prints only in quality adjustment 'Best '.

  The test (after cleaning the print head) page shows the 6 colored rectangles but no black text.

  I cleaned the print head, uninstalled and reinstalled the latest version of the software.

  The cartridges are NOT original HP cartridges.

  Of course, color works fine.

  I replaced the black cartridge with a new one, twice.

  I can buy a new printer for the price of these replacement cartridges.

  Should I worry about trying to fix this problem or should I throw it out the window?

  In the here document troubleshooting steps can help solve the black print is not on your printer 4500 desires.  Note that when printing in paper mode Photo black cartrdige is not used because the black pigmented ink is not compatible with photo paper.  If the photo paper is selected the pritner will use color ink to print in black.

  My guess would be that you have a black cartridge faulty, not unusual for third party cartridges *.  You can try to mop up the printhead on a damp cloth.  A good cartridge would have a strong black ink spot.  You may be able to recover the cartridge by soaking the print head in warm water, nozzles down to the 1 "of water for about ten minutes.  After soaking, dry the electrical contacts and reinsert into the printer.

  * See http://www.buyerslab.com/products/samples/HP-Inkjet-Cartridges-vs-Refilled-Cartridges.pdf

• HP Photosmart Premium C309a: it fell out of the printer, what is it and how can I solve this problem

  Hi all!  A piece of paper got stuck yesterday my boss pulled out and the following came out with it.  I have no idea what is the name of this game and how / where to put it back.  The error message that is displayed on the screen is Oxc19a0040.

  

  Any help is appreciated.

  Thank you

  The part is called the Strip encoding, and it is essential for the operation of the printer.  The band passes over the stem of transport (the long stem stainless steel cart rolls on) and must be threaded through a sensor at the rear of the cart.  He is then attached at each end to support in the printer.  The message here was made for a different but similar printer model , but the same principles apply.

  Note the coding Strip has thousands of fine lines, printed on the Strip, they are used to keep track of the position of transport when he moves here and there.  It is important not to scratch the band or to get ink spots on the strip.  In addition, do not clean the Strip.

  If you have any questions or problems with the post process, please come back here.

• Why the brown color is printing Green?

  Why is the brown color print Green

  Original title: printer

  This means that the ink cartridge must be recalibrated. Remove the cartridge, clean the surface contact gently with a soft cloth (ink spot may be present), install it back and check.

  Try two or three times, if the problem persists. But if this does not resolve the problem, replace the cartridge.

• Need help with creating Swatch palette library book

  I am an employee in a company that produces uniforms and custom clothing.  Our art Department converts and creates logos using embroidery threads and printing inks business tones.

  A major challenge that we are facing on a daily basis is to select the right thread and ink spot of the work provided by the Subscriber.

  Our embroidery in-house manufacturing operation has 300 + thread colors and our printing division has a standard range of 60 +.  Our staff has manually from each wire color in our library of PMS graphics and created an excel spreadsheet that maps all the information of the son that we carry.  From this information, we have created custom color palettes.  Pallets work very well in the creation of art from scratch, BUT they can't help us identify possible closest matching wire color of work provided by the Subscriber using the eyedropper tool.

  I NEED A BOOK OF CUSTOM COLOR THAT WOULD ALLOW THE TOOL PIPETTE THE COLOUR CLOSEST TO WIRE IN OUR LIBRARY, THE SAME FEATURE THAT IS USED TO FIND A MATCH OF PANTONE PMS.

  I have done extensive research on the creation of a custom color book and invested dozens of hours trying to modify/create one in FRANCE following the material I've seen online of programming language.  This task proved beyond my capabilities and I have received no response and I sent to each poster who has never responded to this topic on these forums private messages.

  Anyone here have experience in the creation of a book of custom colors for the purpose of the correspondence of digital art in the library?

  I may be a solution to the problem even if I tried it with only a limited number of colors. The downside is the fact that you need to create a swatch of your color library. On the side: once the graph is saved, you can reference it at any time and apply it. It seems worth your time to test this method.

  Create the color chart:

  1. open a new file, 12 "x 12" 72 dpi RGB 8 bits

  2. choose Image > Mode > indexed Color custom Palette

  3. click in the first box in the grid. The color picker opens.

  4, adjust the RGB values of the color first in your personal library of color

  5. click on the next box and repeat the procedure to add color chips

  6. when the graph to complete (or as big a levy that you choose for the test) choose Save, name the file and save it to your desktop. Close the file,

  Locate the closest color:

  1. open the client file and use the pipette to a choose a color in it.

  2. choose Image > color > Color Table. Your personal color table will be redisplayed.

  3. click on the eyedropper in the table

  4. click on the foreground color that you put in the foreground color patch

  5. the box in the graph which is closest to this color will be chosen.

  6. option click on return to the table to its State unmarked

  close

• What can I do to make this logo better?

  This is a logo I designed for my cousin, but he says he wants more detail. I thought that the logos were not supposed to have too much details. Anyone has any advice on what I could add? Black is an ink spot. Thanks in advance.

  I think there are a lot of things wrong with that, some already noted (the separation of text and the blob of ink completely unnoticeable), but the more fundamental perhaps your paths. they are a strange mess of curves and straight lines and use too many points.

• A few questions about the colors of Patone

  I have a few questions about patone color since it is the first time that I use. I want to use them to create a paper letterhead and business cards in two colors.

  1)

  I don't understand that no sex is more than coated patone washed out colors. I heard that it's because the way paper absorbs the inkt. That is why the same results inkt in different colors on different papers (right?). My question is why is the patone black no sex so different than black normal (c = 0 m = 0 y = 0, k = 100) or black intense:

  

  When I print a normal document with cmyk, I can get pretty dark black color. How is it that I can't have this dark with patone color black color? Even text documents printed on a cheap printer can get a darker color than the color of Patone. He looks way too grey for me.

  (2) a first model, I want to print of patone in CMYK color (since I have like 10 different colors on a page of quick comparison). I know these CMYK colors distinguish the colors of patone and I can't get a representation of 100%. But is there a way to convert patone CMYK values?

  I hope some of you can help me with my questions.

  Thank you.

  You can get shades CMYK Pantone in Illustrator, (Swatches Panel > Open Swatch Library > color books > + PANTONE Color Bridge Coated or lying) but in my opinion, what's the point?  If you print to a digital printer, just use RGB (HSB) or CMYK. Personally, I never use CMYK called "equivalents." from Pantone

  Pantone colors are all mixed pigmented inks, which are fluorescent beyond the limits of the range of RGB and CMYK in particular. The original Pantone Matching System (PMS) was created for the printing industry. He described formulations of ink pigmented for each of its colors.

  Most digital printers (laser or inkjet) use CMYK. The range of CMYK is MUCH SMALLER than many mixed inks, printed on papers either paved or unpaved can deliver. When you specify no sex Pantone ink in artificial intelligence, according to Pantone conversion tables, HAVE "about" what will look like this color on a sheet no bed, try using CMYK. -In my opinion, this has little relevance to the real world conditions and should be avoided in most situations.

  If your project must be printed on a press printing with Pantone inks spots, then by all means, use Pantone colors. But don't trust the colors of the screen; rather get a Pantone swatch book and watch real inks on paper lying and uncoated, depending on the stock you will use on the press.

  With printing decreases rapidly for inkjet and web printers, Pantone has attempted to expand its relevance beyond the traction-date of publication (in the books and software alliances, with one such as Adobe) his old PMS inks and their supposed equivalent LAB and CMYK. I say "supposed" because even once, monitors RGB and CMYK inks can never be literally equivalent to many Pantone inks. But if you go to your project on a printing press printing, Pantone inks are still very relevant as of the "tones".

  I also put my preferences I > appearance of black both display all blacks accurately and output all blacks accurately. The only exception to this may be when you print on a digital printer, where there should be no problem checking.

  Rich black in artificial intelligence is a phenomenon of the screen, at least in the Prefs > appearance of Black, you specify also "out all inks like Rich Black"-something I'd do it EVER do so out for a real printing press. Still, I put my black people in artificial intelligence at the "output All Blacks Acurately" during a press release. If you fail to do so, then the press you will see any minor issue registration, with C, M and look at the back, especially around black characters.  UGH!

  Good luck!  :+)

• Several workflow mask - am I doing this right?

  Hey guys,.

  I currently have a piece of film that I want to be "revealed" by the use of several ink spot. Mask MOV using inverse Luma Mattes.

  The only way I knew how to do is duplicate show the film again and again with another part being hidden so that it is progressive. I can't imagine that this is the best way to do it though.

  What do you guys suggest?

  Build yourself a demo that contains multiple copies of your movies of Inkblot. Set up transitions so that you get a spot of ink animated to your liking. Use the demo as a matte for your videos. EZ as pie...

• After the help of Animation effects

  Normally, when you work in After Effects, you can scroll the playhead from point A to point B and see how an object moves between the two.

  Somehow, I clicked on something (I'm not sure what I've done or if it is a right click).  He asked me something about an upgrade I hit Cancel.  Now when I scroll with the read head I don't see what is happening between the two.  It just goes straight from point A to point B.  Even something as simple as adjusting the size of an object or pass that his position is now difficult, because I don't see the results of what I'm doing THAN I do, I don't see it once the action has been completed.

  Ex.: I want to do a spot of ink a certain size, but when I place it on the screen is too big.  So I scale down.  Simple right?  If I simply "scroll" scale I can adjust to the appropriate size and stop when I like what I see.  In this case unfortunate I can no longer do.  Instead, I see the result the moment I STOP scrolling and if it's still too big or too small, I have to adjust and set again until I get the right number, hoping that the ink spot will be the right size.

  In any case, quite simply, how to get back to the way things were, when I could just see how my work come alive all scroll at the head of reading and setting parameters?

  You have activated the switch to auto update.  It is found in different places depending on your version of AE.

• How files and the appropriate label color PMS separate for screen printing

  Hello

  I have to present a document Illustrator for a silkscreen t-shirt and instructions ask that I have "label own PMS color you expect the ink on the finished design." I don't know what that means, and even less how to do it. I googled and it seems to have something to do with the Pantone colours, but I couldn't find how to do this. The design is all one color, so I hope it helps me! In addition, it requires separate Illustrator files. I know this means separate into layers, but it does not design in layers. If I submit to the eps format does it matter that it's all in a single layer?

  Could someone please help me with some details on this?

  Thanks for any help you can offer.

  Mary

  .. .the instructions ask that «label own PMS colours...» I don't know what that means...

  This is an example of so-called 'experts' in the various industries of printing using inaccurate terminology that confuses potential customers, even when they are ostensibly trying to provide instruction.

  PMS stands for Pantone Matching System. PANTONE is a company that produces for commercial offset printing inks, and who publishes books swatch for these inks and color specifications. Because it has long been the player prevailing in this market for a very long before the general public graphic computers, he took the habit as a sort of de facto "standard" transmission of the colors you want. But isn't the only such system Pantone.

  To my knowledge, Pantone does not even produce screen printing inks (which are more like a painting, really). When people throw around the 'PMS' and 'Pantone' words like that, they often reveal their own misunderstanding of what really is Pantone. In all likelihood, the silkscreen that you use think Pantone Matching System is a kind of a standard universal color. They will most likely find the Pantone color number give you them, then either look at a reference or simply manually mix their screen printing inks for a match.

  ... I googled and it seems to have something to do with the Pantone colours, but I couldn't find how do...

  In most screen printing, your concern is to use spot colors in your design rather than process colors. PANTONE product specifications of colors for fairer inks spot. It produces references to the four-color, metallic inks and even fluorescent inks and inks. Different Pantone standards are represented in Illustrator as 'Libraries of nuances', which are accessible via the drop down Swatch palette menu.

  You can set any Color Swatch you use Illustrator as a spot color. When you do so, all this means is that, when the file is printed as color separations, each spot color is printed on its own plate of separation. "Plate" is a throwback term that refers to the plate on which are the images for individual inks in commercial offset printing. Silkscreen, a separate screen is built to carry the image for each ink used in the design.

  You can also name any Spot color swatch you define, using any name you want. The name has no functional effect on the printed result. Each plate separation of color is a black image, regardless. The actual color is determined by the actual ink that is loaded in the press (or serigraphy) when it is printed. That's why, when you are working in a program such as Illustrator for a project to print, you should not think in terms of inks, in terms of colors.

  For example: you can define a Spot color swatch in Illustrator. It can be set to display any color you want. You don't want to, of course, but in the interest of explanation, assume that you set the Spot color swatch to display in Illustrator as a green color. Then, you name than Swatch "Pantone 185", which is actually a red. If you now print the file as color separations to a PostScript printer (or "print" to PDF separate colors), everything to which you applied the named Swatch "Pantone 185" will be printed on a single sheet (or page PDF).» This sheet contains a picture in black and will be titled "Pantone 185.

  Actually, when you work with a local display store, I usually create tones color chart, and references to name them not according to Pantone (or other), but in the name of the actual brand of screen inks that will use the screen shop.

  So, really, your screen printer is just requiring you to build your design using a limited number of color swatches, with each defined as a spot color. He's still implying that you must name your swatches Spot according to the numbers of colors in the Pantone Matching System, simply because it is the library for the most familiar to designers color naming.

  The easiest way to do so is, for every ink that you want to print on the T-shirt:

  1. go in the Swatches palette flyout menu.

  2. select open Swatch Library > color books > Pantone Solid Coated (or solid Pantone unpaved; it isn't really very important to screen printing).

  3 scroll through the list and select the color you want. It will be added to the list of the nuances of your document.

  The design is all one color, so I hope it helps me.

  As someone else said, because your design is one color, you could simply design using the black one and then tell the silkscreen what color ink to use. But there are some caveats.

  You must print the as a composite file (normal, full color), not as separations. It is because if you simply use a shade that appears black on your screen, that swatch 'black' may in fact be built on a combination of RGB or CMYK values (depending on the colors in your document). To print separations colors can not result in a solid black on the black plate image. It goes same for design tips by using just one color. If you want the ink to be red, and you want to design using red, then red Swatch must be defined as a spot color. Otherwise, print as red as separations or composite will not give a solid black image.

  In addition, it requires separate Illustrator files.

  Once again, unclear. There is no such thing as a "separate Illustrator file." Any Illustrator file can be printed (or saved as PDF) as a color-separations. Once again, that the printer must be clear here, it is that you build your Illustrator file so that it can be printed as separations, with each split corresponding to an ink that is responsible in his silkscreens. In practice, this means just be sure to use only the color tones in your work.

  Yet once, this illustrates the fact that a technician working in a particular printing environment can be 'expert' in his shop, is not because he know didly on the software and the workflow used on the design front.

  For stores of the most banal local screen, the safest way to prepare an Illustrator file, which leaves nothing to question is:

  1. make sure you know how much different inks are used for printing design. (Don't forget: think inks; not "color".)

  2 build your design using nothing but the Spot color swatches and a Swatch for each ink. Do not use any process of nuances. In fact, recommended is to remove all the nuances that are not actually used in your design.

  3 ' print' an Illustrator, Adobe PDF document as "printer." (I think that you need to have Adobe Acrobat installed in order to view a selection of the printer Adobe PDF.) I don't know, because I am never without Acrobat Professional.) In the output of the print dialog pane, specify separations, not composite.

  This will result in a PDF file that contains a separate page for each ink. The image on each page will be black. That's exactly what the screen printing needs to print to 'positive film' (which nowadays are often translucent paper, not film) which it will use as masks then "burn" his screens.

  ... I know this means separate into layers, but I did not design it in layers...

  Do not confuse with layers color separation. They are totally independent functions. Layers is just a way to organize objects that you create in your file. Color separation is a print function. It occurs when you print to a device which includes the separation of colors (e.g.: a PostScript device) or when you export to a PDF of the color separation, as described above.

  It is a common misconception (miss-hypothesis) among beginners. Programs such as Illustrator may help you design with every object that is colored with ink of separation including residence in a layer that is dedicated to this particular ink, it would be absurd debilitating. Again, the layers is just a "fork" of the stack of objects in your file. These objects can be in any order on any number of layers and stacking. This has nothing to do with printing on color separations. (Stacking order comes into play when overprinting is involved, but even this does not yet require layers correspond to the inks of separation.)

  If I submit to the eps format does it matter that it's all in a single layer?

  EPS does not help. Think EPS is nothing but a file format that puts the contents of your Illustrator file in a 'black box' so that it can be "passed through" to the printer by programs that do not understand PostScript. If the content of your Illustrator file is built to target printing method, it will be the content of the EPS. Today, the PDF is more flexible and easier to work with than BPA anyway.

  JET

• Spot color in the file Illustrator does not appear in InDesign in the Swatches palette or the ink Manager.

  I've seen a lot of questions about spot, but I have yet to see of it. I have a file in illustrator with a spot inside. When I do sub to any new file InDesign color task appears as it should. But we have an old file that has probably been on worked great in the past, and in this file, it appears anywhere I looked in ink under the PES Preview Panel, the swatches Panel Manager, and nowhere this color appears. A that someone already had this problem? Are there other options, that I thought I could try? Is it just a corrupt InDesign file? All this is in fact the CS6.

  Thanks in advance.

  Or there is a process color with the same name in the InDesign document.

• ScanJet 8610: Ink on my Scanner spot! How should I clean?

  I was scanning a handful of documents using the top loading (ADF) on the 8610.  I didn't know that there was a wet ink on a page.  When it is scanned by the shipper, he left a black trail on the scanner.  Now, everything I browse the top loading (auto loader) scans with a vertical, black stripe.

  Did someone knows a way to clean this part of the printer so that I can remove this black series for future scans?

  Thank you.

  Hey @zsjordan,

  Welcome to the Forum from HP Support.

  I see you have a print quality problem with your HP Officejet Pro 8610 e-all-in-one printer. I want to help you with this.

  Here's how to clean your ADF:

  Gather the following materials:
  A clean and lint cloth, or any fabric that won't come apart or leave fibers
  Distilled, filtered or bottled water (tap water may damage the printer)
  Clean and Lint cotton pads

  • Press the Power button to turn off the printer.
  • Unplug the power cord from the back of the printer and then unplug the power cord from the power supply or the electrical outlet.
  • CAUTION:
  • You must unplug the power cord before you get inside the printer to avoid the risk of injury or electric shock.
  • Unplug the cable USB or Ethernet at the back of the printer, if you have a connection to the printer cable.

  Clean ADF rollers and separator (optional) buffer

  If you try to copy or fax a document and the document does not feed into the ADF Document (CAD), clean the ADF rollers and separator buffer. If you don't use the ADF, proceed to the next step.