Inner mesh using APs do outdoor mesh

Similar Questions

• Renaming of group used in identity outdoor store

  Hello

  It is necessary to rename some of the Active Directory groups mapped to an external store on our Server 5.4 ACS identity.  Has anyone already done this?  The ACS server magically return to the renamed group or do we need to delete the old group name manually and readd the name of the new group to the identity store?  If so, this means that we must change all the rules associated with this group?

  Thanks, just trying to understand the amount of work, it's going to be.

  Hello

  As far as I KNOW you must delete policies associated with these group, delete old groups, add new groups, and create strategies.

  You can however simply create new groups in Active Directory, add the groups of GBA and using the AD Group 'OR' condition just add new groups in politics.

  e, g if your former name of group 'Helpdesk' and you want to change to 'Helpdesk users '; You can create the new group in the ad, add the group to the ACS and in politics simply select if the user belongs to two 'Helpdesk' or 'Helpdesk users'--> apply the policy.

  In this way, you would be able to save your time.

  Kind regards

  Kush

• 1552e can be used as bridge .11n with AIR-ANT5117S-N?

  Hi all. Need help in the selection of wireless bridges.

  We need connect 2 remote buildings by a plant using bridges wireless outdoor, point-to-multipoint configuration. Distance between them is about 900 meters. Bandwidth is critical, so .11n is the best solution I'm sugest.

  Can we use 1552E as bridges .11n offline?

  Sector AIR-ANT5117S-N 17dBi antenna is compatible with this AP to .11n? I want to say that we're having to use the 3 antennas.

  Thank you very much.

  Hi, Maxim,.

  1550 series back does not support autonomous... its MESH and CAPWAP and need WLC to work...

  Opt for 1250 APs in stand-alone mode and then use fill between them over N... As far as I KNOW, I guess the speed N that Bridging is took supported but not recommended! Let me know if this answers your question!

  Please do not forget to note the useful messages!

  Concerning

  SUrendra

• APS - c lenses on fs7

  Hello. I have a question on the APS - C sensor Sony lenses (got a bit for my a6000). Taking into account the crop factor of 1.39 x on the Super 35 mm sensor the FS7, what is the advantage of using lenses full frame on FS7? And can I use APS - C lenses? (I'm still waiting for my FS7 to arrive, so have not had the chance to experience).

  Any e mount lens can be used on the FS7 without the need for an adapter.
  In your first post asked you if there was an advantage to using a full-frame lens against a target of APS - C format. Not that I know, but more importantly, there is no problem either. You can use any e mount lens on the FS7.

• Flashlights

  Hello, please advice me for a flashlight to my camera Canon sx50 hs power?

  Hot shoe of the camera is compatible with all Canon Speedlite flash units currently marketed as well as a number of hot flashes is no longer marketed (e.g. they do not actively sell the Speedlite 580EX II... but it works with it).

  The model number of the flash tells you "Guide number" as the flash in meters.  For example the 270EX II has a "guide number" of 27 meters.  The 430EX II is a "guide number" 43-metre (omit just the last "0" in the model number and that is the "guide number").

  A "guide number" is a scenario of the industry standard benchmark to measure the distance a proper illuiminate can flash a topic.  But as the amount of light collected by the camera depends on your exposure settings, the reference level of ISO 100 and f/1.0 (opening size) is supposed to.  What do you _really_ is divide the distance "guide number" by the (opening) diaphragm of the lens and it is the real distance that flash can handle.

  For example: the Speedlite 430EX II is a 'guide numbrer' 43 meters or approximately 141 feet.  But this is at f/1.  Your camera can't shoot at f/1 (no one does a f/1 lens).

  When your device is fully zoom-in (maximum magnification) lens has a report f / d of f/6.5.  So, you would divide by 6.5 141 feet.  This gives you a distance of just over 21 feet (21.7).  If your camera is fully zoomed-out (wide angle) the report f / d is improving and the f-stop can go as low as f/3.4.  So, you would divide 141 feet by 3.4 and gives you a distance of about 41.5 feet (the distance is better because the diaphragm opening is larger, which means that it can collect more light).

  All this has been for the Speedlite 430EX II.  It is a 320EX and a 270EX II who are both much smaller and more compact... but also less powerful.

  One last thing... when a flash is pointed DIRECTLY at your subject, you get a difficult "flat" lighting.  The object don't throw no shadows, because the flash is close to the lens (so the shadows are all hiding behind your subject where the camera can't really see them.)  Good lighting includes good shadows and also the shadows which have a flexible transition from the edge clear dark rather than a well-defined shadow.  While the detached flash is fantastic, an easy solution for flash on the camera is to "bounce" the flash on the ceiling.  This works if (a) you are on the inside, (b) ceiling is not too high (otherwise, the distance to bounce back is too far and you return very little light) and (c) the ceiling is a pretty neutral white (if the ceiling is painted a different color than the ceiling color is tinged light.)

  The reason why I have noticed this is because when you "bounce" the flash, you get a look more attractive, but the light must go much further than if you point the flash directly on the subject and also not a 100% of the light is reflected... you lose a lot of light.  For this reason, it is RECOMMENDED a flash that is more powerful than you can imagine.

  A 270EX II will work well for bounce IF your topic is not very far away (for example subjects inside in about 10').  If you're at an event... it's a big room, your subject is further... the 270EX II will be strong enough.

  The OTHER time it's GREAT to use a flash is outdoors in full sun.  This may seem strange... but the Sun is SO bright that the shadows it casts are VERY dark.  Shooting a person, for example, gives you an exhibition where the positive side of their face is very bright, and yet, the shadows are very dark.  It's much nicer when the highlight of their young side is only slightly brighter side shadow.  To resolve this problem, using the flash outdoors in full sun as a 'fill' flash.  I prefer lower the power of the flash just a bit... to '-1' setting (you can adjust it in increments of 1/3 of).  It really improves the look of outdoor photos.

  The menu on your SX50 will have an external speedlite section that allows you to adjust the power levels of the speedlite.

  I own a 270EX II, a 430EX, a 580EX II and two 600EX-RT Speedlites.  I use the 270EX II with my body of Powershot G series, but only as a 'fill' outdoor flash or a Flash inner bouncing to illuminate subjects in about 10' away.  For more general use where subjects could be much further, I use the 430 models and more... especially when you use the flash with light-modifiers to soften the appearance of the light.

• The scaling and the proportion associated with ovals

  Hello

  I am creating a logo that uses two ovals, an innner and another external. I would like to the outside to be exact, the largest of the Interior version and look perfectly proportional to the one inside.

  However, as you will see in the joint, the top version (composed of the inner oval, then an external 10% of it around him like the logo extended version) does not seem as proportional as the version of the lower (made of the inner oval and then an outdoor oval I drew myself I thought good looks).

  Is there a way to create an exact version, the most important of the Interior (to use as the outdoor oval) oval that will examine and exactly proportional to the inner oval? Or is the way that I do (drawing it looks like the closer can be a nice way to do)?

  Thank you very much.

  

  Select your original oval object > path > offset

• Report formatting question

  Hello
  
  I ran into an interesting problem with a report that I've created. My layout consists of 5 repeating frames within an extensible outdoor setting. I want to do is hide the EXTERNAL frame, if ANY of the internal frames contain data. I tried some approaches so far, but none succeeded.
  
  First I tried to change the trigger of format for the outside frame to watch one field of each of the inner images, but this resulted in a "REP-1314: Format trigger"R_1"made reference to column wrongly xyz frequency.
  
  Then I tried simply to create a column placeholder in the parent group and update in the format of each of the inner images triggers. This is not as well and gave rise to a "REP-1323: cannot contain output columns in the format trigger"R_2".»
  
  Are there any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  
  Edit: Another thing I tried was creating a cursor for each inner frame using SRW. GH_CREATE in the outer frame trigger setting in shape and then by looking at the first value of each inner frame and returning true if something was found in any of the frameworks. This approach is much too slow (and I'm not even sure it works)
  
  Published by: user11219365 on June 19, 2009 09:39

  You can use analytical columns. They are created in the group above the one you synthesize. If you get the error message on the wrong frequency reference

• Only Firefox and nothing else will be connected to the internet

  Here is what happened. A year ago, I've updated CDA Downloader on my computer. He was working before I did, and after I did, he said that he is not able to connect to the internet. Soon, I realized that this had happened to all currencies on my computer (for example, includuing) with the exception of my old version of Firefox. If I try and update, it stops working too.

  I tried everything, including the obvious answers online. I'm not the value of the settings 'LAN', and I did not add-ins, or whatever. Forums like this are frustrating because once other people get their answer, the cat is over, while nothing works for me. It's been a year and it's really VERY frustrating to deal with this for so long. Cannot use aps, impossible to download a LOT of software and can't get my audio books. Can someone help me please?

  So, what you say, it's that the problem does not exist with Firefox, but rather the problem is with other programs do not connect to internet - is that correct?

• HP Envy 700-500z: Question about wi - fi antenna tower for the wi - fi signal booster

  Hello

  I bought a wi - fi turn antenna to boost my wireless signal so I can use my Tablet outdoors during the summer.  The instructions provided with the said Tower if the computer has built in wi - fi or wireless card, do not install the antenna tower software becauce it could cause a conflict.

  It was suggested to me that I could either turn off the card go in BIOS or go to network and sharing Center and change the settings of the map, right click on wireless icon, select Disable.  In this way, I could safely install the antenna tower software and use antennas to boost my wireless signal.

  I live in the mountains of NE PA, in a pretty remote area.  'Hot spots' are so rare.  I have no Internet DSL but the signal is not strong enough to reach my Tablet if I should be on the outside.  Even in one of the rooms, the signal is not all that strong.  So it would be great help for me, if I could push my wi - fi at least in the immediate area outside my house.

  Could someone tell me if the network settings can be sure to do, or I would return just the antenna of the tower.  I will not go into the BIOS because I fear of seriously harming my computer by doing this.  But a simple change in network settings, I'm pretty confident that I could.

  Thank you

  Sandra Knapp

  Hello Dave,

  Yes, I suppose I could do that, last spring, they have installed a new router and told me that he would have a stronger signal for wi - fi, but it did not help me using my Tablet out on the patio at all.  I couldn't get a signal here, nothing at all.  So I have a feeling they don't have anything stronger, but I could ask.

  Thank you for suggesting that.

  Sandie

• A series of work without battery Satellite Pro

  Hello
  I use my Toshiba mostly inside, so I decided to use it without battery. Fact it prolongs the life of the battery when start using it again outdoors (or it has no impact on the battery life, I mean ripping off the battery)?

  Another problem is at this time to remove the battery. When it is completely dead, or when it is charged?

  Thanks in advance

  (sory for English mistakes)

  I agree with the codes, but to be honest I do not remove the battery from the laptop. From time to time you should completely discharge the battery and everything will be ok.

• Difficult to parse JSON

  Hi all

  I tried to analyze the JSON WebService part trati coming here.

  I was able to analyze only the inner part using NEITHER "unflatten of JSON. The main problem are:

  (1) this JSON is an array of objects of different type

  (2) this JSON contains the value without a name

  All tips will be useful, and thanks in advance

  Golzio

  [{
  "name': 'DC Comics."
  "rev":]
  [1389826800000, {}]
  "Note": "Note title 1",
  "Vote':"EVEN. "
  "createdBy": "Batman."
  'timeInMills': 1389826800000,
  'detailNote': ' this a detailed memo.
  }],
  [1391122800000, {}]
  "Note": "Note title 2",
  "Vote':"EVEN. "
  "createdBy": "Superman."
  'timeInMills': 1391122800000,
  'detailNote': ' this a detailed memo.
  }],
  [1392418800000, {}]
  "Note": "Note title 3",
  "Vote':"EVEN. "
  "createdBy": "wonder woman."
  'timeInMills': 1392418800000,
  'detailNote': ' this a detailed memo.
  }]
  ]
  }, {
  "name':"Marvel. "
  "rev":]
  [1388530800000, {}]
  "Note": "Note title 3",
  "Vote':"EVEN. "
  "createdBy": "Spiderman."
  'timeInMills': 1388530800000,
  'detailNote': ' this a detailed memo.
  }]
  ]
  }]

  Hey Golzio.

  The problem here is that the primitive JSON Unflatten only makes it easy to parse the JSON data that are well represented by the types in LabVIEW. For cases like this where we have a mixed array types are more difficult.

  It is possible to parse JSON arrays with which coexist types using LabVIEW primitives. This is done by using path of entry to Unflatten of JSON to navigate the JSON data and extract the values you need.

  The following example shows how you can create paths in order to extract the data from your data set:

  

  In this example, you can see how we build the table of path in the loops and Unflatten of JSON to retrieve values one by one. One problem with this approach is that we call the JSON Unflatten several times inside a loop so it could fits well for large datasets with thousands of articles. The advantage is not requiring no external dependencies.

  I am pleased that the JSON toolkit i3 worked for you (I've developed this specific tool kit of full disclosure) and it is good to know that there are other options are available such as the most recent JKI JSON Toolkit and the existing LAVA JSON Toolkit for LabVIEW

• Speedlite 580EX II E - TTL mode problem

  Hello

  My speedlite has recently started to produce photos that are underexposed in E - TTL mode. Compared to the previous pictures, the difference is of about 2/3 - 1 full stop.

  I have done a number of tests using my EOS 40 d and an EF 24-105 f4/L IS USM lens.

  I used the fully charged batteries in the camera and speedlite (two alkaline batteries or NiMH in flash). I checked the exposure compensation and flash exposure compensation settings as well as all other parameters of the menu camera and custom in the speedlite and camera functions. Everything is in order and there is no conflict between the camera and the speedlite.

  I shoot in RAW and as a test, I took a number of pictures in the manual, Tv and Av modes, both without flash and using the flash on the camera. All were well exposed (with no exposure or flash exposure compensation).

  I tried recycling the speedlite to full power several times - time 5 seconds. Thus, it seems that the batteries were working well.

  I then carried out a number of tests in the manual, Av and Tv modes at various shutter opening and ISO settings to compare flash shipped with the speedlite E - TTL mode performance. Each of the photos taken with the built-in flash has been well exposed with a good histogram. Each comparison with the speedlite photo is underexposed, with a bad histogram and reduced file size. With some tests, it was necessary to set the exposure compensation to + 2/3 to + 1 stop flash to achieve results globally comparable to the onboard flash.

  However, this workaround solution produce satisfactory results for the subject distances over 20 feet, even at high ISO and long shutter speeds. The output of the speeedlite was much too low. These tests were done inside.

  Then, I made tests with the speedlite in manual mode with all of the production in full. A range of shutter speeds, apertures and ISO settings photos were completely blown out. The same result was obtained with the speedlite in sync and manual high speed selected if the shutter speed is equal to or less than 1/250 second (max height available for the on-board flash shutter speed).

  As a solution, I put the manual speedlite with sync high speed and set faster than 1/250 second shutter speeds and

  tried the exhibitions at different distances from the object. In General, the sync high-speed kicks. I have not yet checked performance to subject more than 30 feet, but a comprehensive exhibition was obtained in all tests to date, (mostly better with flash exposure compensation of-1/3). However, according to the ambient light auto focus was sometimes impossible.

  These tests, it seems that the device works well, the speedlite is capable of generating a full release and in manual/high-sync mode, it will produce a correct exposure with high shutter settings.

  While the two workaround solutions - E - TTL mode with timing of compensation and flash exposure manual/high speed - work, some experiments are required and both have their drawbacks. There are moments where I would like to make with the speedlite in manual, but for the most part, I was pleased with the results in E - TTL mode and I want to be able to restore my speedlite complete state.

  I wonder if anyone can shed light on fault (sensor/transistor?) and repair.

  I'm sorry to have provided a lot of details, but I wanted to avoid unnecessary questions or solutions that I've tried. Any assistance from members who are aware of this problem would be greatly appreciated.

  It is not a fault. It seems that if the flash does not work correctly.

  You realize, not you, the ETTL flash works differently in mode to manual exposure, it does in the automatic exposure modes?

  When you have the ETTL flash game and the camera to Tv or Av or P, the camera will expose by ambient light as if the flash is not there, and the flash is treated as a FILL light. The flash output is reduced by something like 1.5 or 1.7 stops full power, unless you overrided with + or - Flash Exposure Compensation.

  When you have the flash in ETTL and Manual, the flash is FULL and processed by the camera, as if it were the only light source. The ambient light is ignored (but according to the selected parameters can still be a factor in your images). Once more, you can substitute with FEC, if you wish.

  If I read your description, you see the difference between manual/FULL flash and AE/TTL. As long as you keep in mind these, you can configure the camera and flash in ETTL mode easily to many different situations.

  You will notice that the flash often recycle much faster when it acts as a FILLER, because it is drawn to the decline in production. I often use the fill outdoors during the day and can get two or three 'pop' quick lightning before it slows down for recycling.

  If you want the 580EX II to recycle faster, use of quality instead of alkaline batteries rechargeable batteries. For faster recycling, a CP - E4 battery pack is a nice addition. He added 8 AA plus size batteries that flash can appeal.

  I never use the built-in flashes, so I don't really know how they compare.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• change individual items in a 1 d table

  First of all, forgive me because I am very new to Labview (8.5 full). I still read Labview for everyone but I'm starting to build Subvi for a program of DA, I need to write. The code is attached for a routine (simple) that allows the user to manually load the values in the tables 1 d. These tables are used to a poly (already written) adjustment curve to generate the coefficients will be calibrated sensor nonlinear optical Blackmer.

  What I tried to do is to initialize an array at their entrance to the Sub - VI he then wait for the user to enter a new value in the input box, select the cell you want to change and click on the "LOAD" button to write this value in the table cell. What is happening is that the table in its entirety from sems to initialize every time you click on the load button. I deliberately kept the initialization routine outside the loop of 'LOAD', but I don't seem to matter.

  It's my first time with graphical programming and I'm not sure I'm even a table. Where is he? In the thread? I formed it and display it, but I don't see a picture as in Visual Studio, Pascal, etc.

  I am even close to being on track or have I missed something important in my efforts?

  You must keep your table into a shift register. (see attachment).

  Also:

  • Your flat sequence has no purpose because the order of execution is entirely determined by data flow
  • Use the appropriate data types. If you want to DBL, initialize the array as DBL. If you want, use the indicators and controls around.
  • Your inner loops use 100% of CPU do nothing more of the time, you don't need at all.
  • Also, your outer loop consumes 100% cpu. Use a structure of the event.

  You should also familiarze yourself with the stream, because the major part of your code is very imperfect. For example, your controls will have to be in the innermost loop in so that they can be read during execution of the inner loop.

  Use my example: a loop, the structure of an event.

• Screenshot in Adobe Photoshop

  Original title: screenshot

  1... y at - it for the screenshot?

  I touched the "combination" open Adobe photoshop and choose 'Paste'... it is grayed out.

  I open windows paint and do the same thing and that's where... Even tried MS office/word...nothing in dough.

  I would use APS as my screenshot by default, but nobody seems to know how to make changes to the "prtscr" function / program.

  2nd if there are options for "prtscr" how the hell can I access the service or program?

  Thank you.

  Hi Hawk318,

  We can see in the Adobe Forums and see if it helps.

  Hope this information is useful.

• Virtual design of IPS/IDS question.

  Hello! I am having some problems with the understanding of the design of the virtual IDS/IPS.
  I know how to do it with hardware IPS/IDS, when you have a physical interfaces specified to deal with traffic and another physical interface to send inspected traffic to the nucleus.

  My question is how do people there with virtual firewall? I mean, how it is possible to configure a server on VMWare to receive SPAN session (in the case of IDS) or something like that.

  I hope I can clarify my concern.

  You can actually do both. If you just want to monitor (IDS) then you will need to dedicate a physical port on your VM server and cover traffic towards it. For more information about that visit this link:

  http://KB.VMware.com/selfservice/microsites/search.do?language=en_US&cmd=displayKC&externalID=1004099

  If you want to place the inline virtual appliance, then you will need to devote two physical ports on your VM server. One of these ports will be used for the outdoor area and the other for your within the area of.

  I hope this helps!

  Thank you for evaluating useful messages!