Lens EF-s 50mm f/1.8 VTS good for a woman "point and shoot"?

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• lens wide-angle compatible with Canon eos Rebel t5 for $300 or less

  I'm looking for a good wide-angle compatible with my Canon eos Rebel t5 camera. I'm on a tight budget and would like to spend $300 or less on the lens. If you have any recommendations, please let me know.

  FutureSailor wrote:

  I'm looking for a good wide-angle compatible with my Canon eos Rebel t5 camera. I'm on a tight budget and would like to spend $300 or less on the lens. If you have any recommendations, please let me know.

  The STM IS to Canon EF-S 10-18 is your clear choice.

• Impossible to find profiles of lens for Canon 35-80mm and 80-200mm (3.6 Lightroom)

  Hello

  
  

  This may seem like a piece of cake to most of you, but I am fairly new to photography, especially things like the optical correction, etc.

  I use Lightroom 3.6 and there is no profile target for these 2 objectives:

  Canon 35-80mm

  Canon 80-200mm

  Anyone know what to do in this case? Do I need to create them somehow (if so - how?) or can I download them (if so - where)?

  Thank you in advance for your help!

  Kind regards

  A.
  

  Profiles for these lenses have been added in later versions. But I don't know because I don't keep track of all the profiles that are added. If you Google Adobe Lens profile Downloader, you will find link to a program provided by Adobe. It will connect you to a Web site where other people have created profiles and are sharing them with others. The Downloader will download and install all of the profiles that you choose.

• Helps the first ever camera purchase

  Hello everyone, I'm looking for in getting my first camera ever and hoped to get a suggestion or two. I want to be able to use in low light conditions as the observation of the stars if possible, but the main reason would be to use on holiday, seen seeing. I personally found the DxO One for the price of $500 and don't know if the size of outweigh the specifications of the camera for that price. I have also suggested the Sony A6000, $550.

  I was hoping to get some suggestions for a first time purchase at or around the same price range as the two cameras above the barrel.

  Thank you very much for your help!

  cciga wrote:

  Hello everyone, I'm looking for in getting my first camera ever and hoped to get a suggestion or two. I want to be able to use in low light conditions as the observation of the stars if possible, but the main reason would be to use on holiday, seen seeing. I personally found the DxO One for the price of $500 and don't know if the size of outweigh the specifications of the camera for that price. I have also suggested the Sony A6000, $550.

  I was hoping to get some suggestions for a first time purchase at or around the same price range as the two cameras above the barrel.

  Thank you very much for your help!

  My personal opinion is the One DxO a gadget out of price point and shoot camera.

  On the side of Cannon I would consider the PowerShot G7 X renovated ($449.99) directly from Canon with the one year warranty.

  Regarding the Sony A6000 is where the cannon becomes the choice clearly better. When it comes to cameras with interchangeable lenses, Canon has the best value of lens there. STM of Canon lenses offer outstanding image quality, at an unbeatable price.

  The EOS Rebel SL1 with EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Kit Lens STM black handed to nine ($329.99) direct from Canon with the one year warranty.

  The SL1 received DPReviews Gold Award and was chosen as their "Camera of the year".

• Infinity focusing problem on my SX700

  I always infinity focusing problems with my SX700.  I have the yellow box indicating that the image will be sweet if taken.  This happens on at least 1 other point cannon and shoot that I know.  I can focus to several hundred feet but not 10 000.  Does anyone else have this problem?  I am at my end and ready to jump ship to another manufacturer if I can't get to the bottom of this.  I never had this problem with my G-10.  Could this be a problem with extreme telephoto lens Canon point and shoot models?

  I have a Canon PowerShot SX150is and a Canon PowerShot G12, and I get the same questions. Here's what I learned. The problem with any long zoom point and shoot at the tele end is the amount of contrast detection that occurs to allow the development. With shorter zooms, the atmosphere is less dense, but more zooms to detect the density of the air. This is particularly noticeable on days with higher humidity levels, but would not have noticed the days of low humidity very dry. So the blur warning you get. The camera is not getting enough contrast to narrow the focus. No matter what brand you use, if the camera uses contrast detect focus, it will be the result. Not all use contrast detect, so be sure to check before you choose "deserting a ship."

  I would keep the ISO as low as possible, and if you can manually set the focus to infinity, it should help. But this has always been a sore spot with me on cameras Canon PowerShot with how long and complex manual focus is. Hope this helps you understand what may be the problem you are experiencing.

  Steve M.

• Blue stain on the pictures taken in the Sun

  Hello, I just bought a DSC-HX9v and if I take a picture with the Sun on the lens I get a blue dot on the picture. Have a friend who just bought the same camera and it also happens on their camera too. Tried most of the main parameters of the smart Auto, Auto, Superior, etc. Is this a result of the new G lens. My previous Sony camera was not a problem. Can anyone help please

  Peter

  Hello Peter,.
  Welcome to the forums.
  Any digital SLR camera has small rim around the goal of incorporating a lens or the attachment filter. Most Point and Shoot cameras lack this small lip that can act as a shade when the Sun is directly overhead.

  There are many tips here to help you take pictures in the Middle Sun. the blue dot that you see is the reflection of the sun itself through the glass of the lens and is something that is inevitable without shadow or change in position.

  1. use your flash. Sound silly but it's true! When the Sun is directly above your subject has shadows under the nose and eyes.

  2. find some shade. not much but a little shadow goes a long way, unfortunately this is not enough to spur of the moment shots.

  3 improvise! If you are going from a spur of the photo of the moment, is perhaps not fancy but stick the other hand above and out of sight of the camera, thus giving you a lens without preparation time filter.

• Sony RX-10 in private closed-editing of image

  In playback mode, when I zoomed in and enlarged a picture, how save the edited image?  I tried to press the shutter - but it must be just a picture of what the lens is pointed.  Another point and shoots, you go to an editing mode and cultures or whatever in the edit mode.  I can't find it in the online manual.  Thank you.

  Good day Margaret,.

  The DSC-RX10 has not found on other Cyber-shot models [cut] function, you need to import the pictures on your computer and use Playmemories House to enlarge and crop part of the image.

  If my post answered your question, please mark it as "accept as a Solution.

• Best camera for slow motion under $400?

  OK, first off I don't know too much about the cameras. I take lots of videos for editing with After Effects, and I also post videos on YouTube a lot. Right now, I have a Sony Cybershot DSC-WX9 1080 p 60i footage shot and 16MP. However, I am looking to upgrade to something that draws the best slow motion video. The two important things I want is clear 60 FPS + video and fast image speed. If possible, it should be less than $400. I've been to the GoPro HD3, but it is a bit high in my price range (in addition, it works well for taking pictures...).

  Does anyone have recommendations?

  Thank you!

  
  

  399 black GoPro Hero3 is an amazing camera for a point and shoot. Takes snapshots at high speed and takes very good stills and the time. If you want all around the camcorder that will slow down the MB and you can live with one correction lens wide angle, you can't beat the GoPro right now. I have one and it is totally amazing.

• a canon ef 50mm f3.5 lens kit enough for photo magazines and after effects slideshow?

  I don't know if this is related to the legacy

  I work with camcorders Professional before (sony hdr fx7 and hitachi sk,) in my previous company (video production company)

  but for some reason, my current employer (company accountant company) now does not give me a project related to the images. I'm just the graphic animation of all time.

  our company owns a sony slt a57 with 50mm f5.6 lens.

  Personally, I have canon Rebel t1i with maximum 50mm f3.5 lens than I usually use for weddings and birthdays.

  This is the goal of basic as well as the box.

  do I need a really need an images bokeh in my slideshows? What is my 50mm f3.5 more than enough?

  or should I buy a 50mm f1.8, 200mm f2.8 or what will be the best?

  I'm shooting in a studio for a presentation of marriage and a guy said that a 50mm f3.5 will not a good image for slide show and it does not give me a good photographer?

  The camera and lens have very little to do with how a photograph is good. I saw an amazing job for a smart phone. Most of my work is done with special lenses. 90% of my video is shot with Prime lenses. I recently shot a pilot for a television series and the camera had a zoom, but not fired one shot with a zoom, I've only used the zoom for framing. I hate zooms. I have a short zoom on my personal camera but only to convince them. When I shoot portraits that I use usually sets a goal and it is usually a 50 mm or 85 mm equivalent because I like to be close and personal with my subject.

  Point of view is controlled by the position of the camera, depth of field of your subject, the focal length distance and openness. Control the quality of the glass the bokeh (quality of the output of the areas of intervention) and each objective has a different look. Reserved (e) has everything to do with the way the lens is made and you can not the same aspect of a lens digital SLR consumers that you can get with a Glass of Cooke, and a set of objectives Zeiss will give you a different look. Do you need special lenses to shoot for a slide show and make it beautiful? Not at all. You need the ability to find the light, ask and cope. That's all. Do you need a zoom? No, except if you can not control the position of the camera and you must change the framing (think sports or wedding photography where you can not go to your subject and take a bullet in the head). If you can make images like you with the train you have then it is pointless to spend more money on the train. If you want to change the appearance of the images you shoot then you should start to experiment with different objectives and not only the focal length.

• 50mm 1.4 focus ring does not work and when shuter button halfway red poins focal do not work.

  is there something I can do to resolve or to take to a repair shop?

  The 50mm f/1.4 is known for failures of system development. Repair or replace is the only solution.

  Google 'cost to fix the Canon 50mm f/1.4 development system'

  I'm assuming you checked the switch on the lens is correctly positioned in the AF position.

• Derivatives of Focus 50mm 1.8

  I love dabbling with astrophotography from time to time, and I would try my 50mm lens. But if I try to manual focus on something to infinity and then take a timelapse of the stars, I only usually get 5 or 6 pictures until my lens focus drifted infinite completely spent. Is this just a problem with this lens, or something is loose on mine?  I know that others who have used it to do this, so maybe I use it just wrong? Thank you.

  This sounds like something is mechanically loose inside the lens (gambling) and vibrations are enough to pass.

  When we focus catadioptric telescopes, the large primary mirror at the back of the telescope has done to move forward or backward along a deflector tube to focus the scope.  Since the large mirror can move, he can also "shift".  So this is a common problem of 'focus' and then start to use the framework to find that the mirror is installed and now is out of focus again.

  The technique to combat this is to deliberately take the fuzzy instrument, which brings the mirror too far "backward" and then reverse the development and push it forward so that it is evenly supported by below (so we always focus in the same direction.)  This means that the mirror is basically established and shouldn't move on us after achieve us focus.

  You can try the same technique with your 50mm lens.  Update the goal all way since infinitity until it hit the hard stop (which pulls back the elements of development) then go back and adjust very slowly until it comes back to focus (it pushes the lens before... but if the camera is pointed upwards it should remain "standing" and I hope that used to pass after a few clicks).

  Have a sloppy focus is not a good thing and normally I would say it needs to be repaired, but the lens is very good cheap and the cost of the service would almost certainly exceed the value of the lens (in other words, it's probably cheaper to buy just a new lens.)

• Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 - 4. 5 DC OS HSM

  Hello. I wonder if this sigma lens (Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 - 4.5 DC OS HSM) would take on my 70 d. Thank you!!!

  Yes, it is discontinued.   You can find them online, or may be used at some of the good reputation of the Photo shops.  If you're really lucky, you can find a new, always on the shelf somewhere.

• Sony lens hoods

  The kit lens Sony 16-50mm is supplied without a lens hood and the 55-210mm does. Is there a reason? Is it more important to use one with the 55-210mm?

  Lens hoods are to avoid flare (the light from a source off-angle bouncing around inside the lens barrel). Using a lens hood is always a good idea, but the SELP1650 retracts to form a compact set when the power is turned off (or asleep). With an attached lens hood may interfere with the ability of the lens to retract, no mention can still be as compact as it may be otherwise.

  Unfortunately, the SELP1650 suffers from flaring during and could benefit from the use of a visor, but also unfortunately, it suffers from vignetting at the wide end and a visor would almost certainly what's worse.

• Reflections on the lens for iPhone

  HHey guy

  IM thinking of buying a new lens of ollioclip 4-in-1 for my iPhone 5s. So I just want to know your opinion about that. Is it really worth? and will really give me amazing pictures?

  PS - I'm not pro-photographer. But, again, I want to take take pictures on my iPhone.

  Help me guys here.

  Thank you.

  Pictures are taken by the photographer, not the goal. The lens will help with technical aspects. Take good pictures now? If so, better lenses you can of your pictures a little better. But, if you can already take good pictures, working on that, rather than spending money on more gadgets.

• Which lens

  I'm the RFP for Chasing Classic Cars on the speed. I've been shooting with my F5 for 2 months now and need some advice on what lens to buy. I used the Fuji 19 Cabrio, which is not wide enough. I am currently using my Canon EF lenses and a Tokino 12-24 with a box of MTF. This works, but is very clumsy to use in the run and shooting firearms. So, it came down to the Canon of 15.5 to 47 or Angenieux 16-42 Optmo DP with the adapter wide angle. Rumor has it that this goal will be * ed with a zoom rocker soon... rumor. All the advice of the current users of these lenses?