Lens EF - S v Lens EF - Crop Factor (factor of Conversion of Image)

Similar Questions

• Effects of the use of EF lens and a EF-S camera crop factor calculations.

  I've been reading about sensors APS - C and the differences between EF and EF-S objectives.

  I have two questions pending about how the EF-S-objectives are marketed.

  (1) objectives EF - S need to have the factor of 1.6 x applied for effective focal length or are they marked correctly since they can only be used in APS - C cameras?

  FOR EXAMPLE my 17-40mm 4 L EF lens is actually a 27, 2-64mm when used in a camera to mount EF-S due to the 1.6 x factor.

  So a first objective 60 mm EF-S would in fact be similar to a 60mm EF lens first in terms of focal length and 'zoom' level of the image? Or she also apply the crop factor and actually be a focal length of 96mm?

  (2) are there other attributes of a lens EF you must apply a conversion when using in an EF-S mount? Side f-stop?

  Thank you in advance for any guidance that offer you!

  Designation is fashoned it was for 35 mm cameras and the crop factor is not considered in appointing focal length / range of lenses if they have an EF or EF-S mount. a 60 mm is a 60 mm.

• Crop Factor, the size of the sensor, field of vision

  I find all of it. a but confusing when many call of cameras themselves as full frame, but when you put the same lens on different cameras, the frame is different.. crop factor. field of vision... different .but
  So what crop factor... is the f55 sony please? I've seen a number of different things on various forums not suggesting no harvest to 1.3 but you see the Abel cine graphic field and the f55 is cropped than a c300, which is 1.6. .some how I thought that we were heading toward a world where 50mm meant 50 mm...

  This becomes particularly relevant by using the lens wide angle. When you use the tokina 11-16 (I think only accepted the wider for those who have no characteristic budget) on one of these cameras, the crop or field of view factor restricted means that you have nowhere near frame... a 1.6 crop what goal can give you the grand scale?

  So what is the truth about the f55... Please thank you...

  So, from what I can tell with the F55...

  Sensor is 24 x 12.7 mm with a diagonal of 27.1 mm

  By comparison, when you work with a negative S35 (1.85, 2.40, 1.78) will all use the same horizontal dimensions for the extraction of the negative. What is happening at 24mm (through the book of ARRI frosted glass dimensions). So what this tells us, it's that your lenses will have the same field of view HORIZONTAL on the F55 as they would a film camera. So a 50mm should have the same field of view HORIZONTAL as a film S35mm camera.

  Even a 3perf S35 cameras extraction rates from the exposed negative will be 23,11 mm, slightly more small, but with regard to the horizontal field of vision, people aren't saying that their 50 isn't a 50 because we turn 3perf vs 4perf.

  Now, using the diagonal, show us the lens cover. Yes, the sensor has the same height as a negative film, so if a lens covers the sensor or will not play with the diagonal. And to also know the lens image circle. I can't find what the image circle is for this device, kind of coverage I can't tell you.

  What I see, is that it was designed for the size of APS - C sensor cameras that, on average, would be a 25.1 x 16.7 mm (all manufactured products have different dimensions some small some bigger ones, that it is supposed to use on average). So a device to sensor APS - C on AVERAGE, a bit of a wider horizontal field of view you. The diagonal of 30.1 mm makes me believe that you should have a cover and that he should not thumbnail, although the difference in horizontal makes me think that it might be a very slight decline offshore on the corners.

  Something to remember... well that this objective was intended for 35mm film, in the world of images is fixed. S35mm film in the film world is different. So when a film camera say it's Full Frame, it is in relation to a negative S35, not a camera negative. So with a film lens, a 50mm would mean a 50mm, but when you start to move the lenses of disciplines, that's when things start to become difficult.

  And please keep in mind, that's how I know. I'm not saying this is 100% the perfect answer, it's just what I saw, what I heard and what tells me the calculation.

• All three 5DrS crop factors performance 60 MB + trust

  It would seem reasonable that when you choose to create an image cropped on the 5Drs, the smaller stage should still fill the viewfinder to produce a good view of the subject.   It should also that a cropped image would result in a smaller file when downloading.  500 MB 60 images will slow down the processing and filling hard drives and camera cards very quickly.  I want to save the images FULL of special topics in ideal environment.  25 MB to 35 MB of files would be OK.  What I have to give up the shooting in RAW?

  Also, the crop factor should figure prominently in the display of the viewfinder and easily editable.  I would like to be able to assign a button to turn around the menus of 3 cultures with a push of the button while looking through the viewfinder.

  Thank you for taking my problem seriously.  I always knew that I would have more chances to take FULL RAW photos and crop and then down on computer.  MRAWs out as "not supported" on Aperture 3.  I'm looking for a drive hard solid state lightning take to the Brazil.  It will be fast enough.

  There seems to be no reason to use the factors of the harvest.  Just as well to trim COMPLETE images.  If the agricultural point of view has shown full size in the viewfinder, it would give you a better view of the subject.

  Thanks again.

• BUG strange when cropping after the rotation of the image!

  Hello! When I want to edit an image like this:
  1. I turn at 90 or 180 or 270 degrees (any)
  2. I'm going to harvest it and try with None (without a default size)
  Sometimes the size of cropping to tremble when I want to change it with my fingers and it hangs up. This is not the case if I cut it first and spin. Or only just at the moment where I cut it. Please fix this BUG. I have the latest version of the app Album and it happened to me on older versions!

  I was able to recreate this issue

• Last image in LR cropping causes the flicker of the image

  reqlly do not know how to deny this, but I need modify a group of pictures today and was the first time since the last update. When cropping an image, the image flashes and seems pretty rough during the operation. Never used to do this, so I don't know what it's the devil.

  Now, I must confess I also updated OS X last week who could be a part also. Any ideas?

  Try to uncheck the option preferences > performance > CPU graph use.

• cropped when reduced to a pixel image.

  This problem is developing. When I use the crop tool, either by double clicking on or using the toolbar of the image is reduced immediately to a pixel. P.S.CS3 running on OSX10.5.8

  Press the clear button in the tool with the selected crop tool options.

  Probably you have a few small values entered in the height, width and resolution fields

• How to cancel a cropped and turned to ACR RAW images

  Can someone advise to return to the original RAW image once the image has been published in ACR.

  "Reset Camera Raw default" seems to do everything but undo crop and rotation of the image.

  How to cancel these or go back to the original unedited image?

  Thank you very much

  Delete the XMP files because they contain all never change instructions worn in ACR or other publishers such as Lightroom or Aperture.

  If you can find the CR2 file in Solution Explorer, right-click on it and select open with Photoshop Elements. It will automatically open in ACR. You can also use free software PLR that comes with canon cameras and has more tools than ACR.

• Canon, in the face of fast moving subjects 18-55 kit lens?

  Hi everyone, I'm new here.

  I was doing one shoot the other day on very fast subjects that changed a lot of direction (dogs). Got some good shots but the vast majority were evil out of the home, which was a real shame. I want to know if it's the lens, the body or my technique that does not reach me.

  I'm relatively new to photography, so maybe it's that my settings are wrong or my technique is bad. I'm using the lens wide open, not mode live view with servo AF on a 600 d body. Usually when I focus I pan just the camera turn to follow the subject, sometimes pressing down when I want to shoot.

  I plan the upgrade to the 17-55 f2.8 because it is sharp wide open and has a constant and fast opening and USM and full-time manual focus with a correct focus ring.

  Thank you.

  Your problems are probably due to a combination of factors. IMO, auto focus performance is determined by three things...

  1. camera AF capabilities. Your 600 d has 9 AF points system. Only one of these points - the center one - is the "best" type of cross that is more responsive and follows the movement better. When shooting moving subjects with your camera, it would be useful to limit yourself to using only the central point. (Note: other Canon cameras have more advanced systems of the AF.) T4i, T5i, 60 d, 50 d and 40 d has 9 AF points that looks like, but all nine points are the cross-type sesnors 'better '. The 7 d and 70 d AF 19 points, with all of the nineteen cut type. 5DIII and 1DX 61 points AF with up to 41 Cup type, depending on the lens used.)

  Some cameras are also optimized for performance development. For example, the models of the series 1 d and 7 d have a separate chip driving AF... While most (maybe all?) other models share the tasks of AF by the same processor that handles images.

  2 capacity autofocus lens: Yes, a reader of "USM" (Ultrasonic Motor) objective as the EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 would be an improvement on your kit lens. It is faster, less hunting and is quieter than a 'micro' such as is used in the cheaper kit lens. (Note: there is a version a bit more of the 18-55mm with drive focus "STM" or "Stepper motor", which is better than the micro motor version, but still not as fast as USM.) STM lenses are running silent and particularly well suited for video.)

  A larger aperture, like the 17-55 / 2.8 (as opposed to your 18-55/3.5-5.6), offers more light to the camera AF sensors, allowing for faster and better follow-up.

  No, forget all the EF 50/1.8... Of course, he got more openness, but it uses a micro motor and is widely known to be developed slower, less accurate and likely to hunt more than a USM lens. If you want a quick and of course focusing in short and medium telephoto, look to the EF 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 100/2 or L-135/2 lenses. These all use USM drive and are much faster and more accurate than the EF 50/1.8. They have also one or two larger max aperture stop that even the 17-55 / 2.8 (or any other zoom lens), provide more light for the camera to work with. Using a f2.8 lens or "faster" will give optimal performance on your camera, with the centre of focus.

  A few drinks simply are not designed to be developed fast, even if they have more large openings and USM focus. Macro lenses, for example, have to move their focus group a long, long way to go from infinity to 1:1 magnification tends to be slower. In addition, very large aperture lenses such as the 85 / 1.2 L are generally slower... Design. Very large aperture lenses and macro focus on precision, to deal with the shallow depth of the effects on the ground, rather than speed.

  Other objectives are designed to the very fast development. All 70-200, the 100-400 and all the first 300mm lenses and more, are quite fast focusing. Extreme telephotos such as 500 and 600 mm can be difficult to get and keep on target, however.

  Some third-party lenses also make use of similar to Canon's USM development drive, to help the performance of the update. Sigma HSM and Tamron lenses USD are examples.

  3. skills of the user is the third key factor making the update performance... that is, your technique.

  You mention servos 'AF '...  Just to clarify, yourcamera has three focus modes: one-shot, HAVE Focus and AI Servo... There is no "Servo AF. The correct mode to use with moving subjects is AI Servo. Perhaps what you are already doing. In any case, One Shot is almost only used with stationary subjects (there are techniques of 'pre-focus' where it can be used with moving subjects, but those who are rarely used). I Focus is not really a foucs mode at all... It is supposed to decide for you, if the subject is moving, then change to use the correct mode. I have not tested on a recent, but older model where I tried, I found a slight delay that causes a lot of discussion missed shots. He also simply chose the wrong mode sometimes. It might be interesting to note that Canon more pro-oriented models have same AI Focus... they offer only One Shot or AI Servo.

  So, make sure that you are using AI Servo to maximize performance when shooting moving subjects.

  You also use a slow shutter speed. I inflate the ISO and try to use 1/500 or faster shutter speeds. 1/320 or 1/400 is very marginal, trying to stop the movement of the subject with something as fast as the dogs in action. In fact, more you are close to the subject, shutter speed more fast you will really need to freeze movement.

  Cannon also noted that the 18MP models are a little prone to blur shake camera - probably because of the high density of pixels on the sensor sites - and recommends keeping shutter speeds upwards to be sure to get a sharp shot, even with IS lenses. There was a white paper on this subject, on the Canon website. I don't know if it is still available online.

  You should be able to get nice images, specific to ISO 1600... a complete stop of two higher and you to use much faster shutter speed. However, if the indoor shooting it may be areas that are not as well informed and are hard to get a sharp shot.

  You can shoot RAW files, so that you can more fully control noise reduction and factors in post-processing exposure when using high ISO.

  A popular technique among photographers of sports/action is back button to the point. See this article online, on this subject: http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml

  BBF separates the function of the development of the trigger. You use rather your thumb on one of the rear camera buttons to start and stop the development. Many users feel that this allows more safe and followed acquistion with moving subjects. You can configure your camera for BBF and give it a try. It is possible for action/sport/HAVE Servo shooting, it's actually usable once, too... I used it enough only for a few years now.

  With the help of BBF, I start AF well before that I want to take the picture, then focus on the maintenance of the area to focus on the right of the subject where I want the lens to focus continuing to follow and maintain the emphasis... then take pictures along the way. I use the Center Focus point alone, much of the time. This could lead to too centered images, so I try to fit a little loose from time to time, allowing cropping to make that fewer centered images. I sometimes use other than the Center AF point... but who wouldn't recommend with action shot on a camera that does not have the type sensors crossed to peripheral issues, such as your 600 d.

  I use a pair of 7Ds and a number of USM lenses fast development of shoot a lot of sports. With a few years of practice under my belt, on avearage I nail focus on 95 to 98 on 100 shots using this type of gear with the above techniques. I turned to 4000 images at an event recent and marked about 30 people like "rejected" to missed focus problems (and I bet at least half of those who are my fault... not the machine). There may be a few others that are marginally acceptable (i.e., can make an 8 x 10 beautiful print, but seem not good any more greater than). Yet, even if there are 80 or 120 spleen focus, it is only 2 or 3%... much better than only 10% in short.

  I would say that qualities of objective performance and user techniques generally count more than the camera well, or at least can largely compensate for any camera shortcomings. I got results almost as good 50 d and 30 d before it (which were similar to your 600 d AF system) and even with 10 days earlier ("lower" than your AF system). Although I'm a bit away, I didn't like good luck shooting moving subjects using 5 d Mark II (I mostly just use it for stationary subjects)... the 5 d Mark III has a much better AF system and follows the movement much better.

  I hope this helps!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Where can find lens profile correction for EF 17-35 f/2. 8 the goal using ACR 6.2?

  Using Photoshop CS5 Extended on iMac 10.6.4.

  I work with wedding photos taken by a friend, but I can't find the profiles of correction lens for Canon EOS 20 d or the EF 17-35 f/2. 8 the goal. When I search online, he said simply «no profiles found online» Is there a download for old profiles of goal? I checked and I'm using ACR 6.2. I don't have the camera so there is no way to take test shots to create my own profile. But it should not be an available profile; the camera is not old?

  I don't know why you keep referring the 20 d. As long as the crop factor is the same than your 20 d model camera is not serious. If the lens profile on any Canon camera with a 1.6 crop factor, it works perfectly with your 20 d. However, as noted above, the goal didn't has not been profiled by Adobe for any camera model and it seems that no one in the community of users has created a no more.

  FWIW, I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for someone else to create a. Since your Rebel XSi has a 1.6 crop factor, you can use it to create your own profile.

• Enigma of lens metadata

  Not really a problem of ACR, but I have a thorny problem in need of Smart minds and I can't imagine a better place to ask...

  I have a Nikon D800 and a few lenses. I shoot RAW and send pictures on my Windows PC using Bridge. I process Raw images in the latest version of ACR & Photoshop.

  Today, I noticed that for the last few weeks, bridge shows no data model to aim for my new images. Anything until the end of February is correct, but the next March 19 shooting and later just a white in the field of the lens.

  

  However, once you load this image in ACR, it is recognized.

  

  I even installed software from Nikon, and he agreed.

  

  I was wondering if it was something to do with bridge being updated recently at 6.2, but I would have thought that this would affect all images, new and old. I have even a few images uploaded manually, in which case the photodownloader was at the origin of the problems - no difference.

  I was wondering if the Nikon Lens Distortion data (2,009 to 2.013) firmware update caused the problem. If I could downgrade to the latest version, that could help, but I can't find the file. But anyway, cab and ViewNX have no problem, the model of the reading lens. Why it only affects bridge?

  I'm puzzled. You are the cleverest people with such things, do you have any suggestions?

  I found a setup.zip for ACR 9.4 and had to manually extract and rename the plugin to archive.

  I'm now with ACR 9.4 and the details of the lens are back!

• Using a profile correction lens for micro four thirds?

  I have a Panasonic 5 GM (micro four-thirds) using an Olympus 9 mm f8.0 fisheye.  The lens is silent (has no electrical contacts) so the camera knows what the lens is fixed and Lightroom cannot apply an AutoCorrect entry to the lens distortion and CA. I downloaded Adobe Lens profile creator and created a successful * *.lcp file to my goal.  It is installed in the subdirectory of files standard (I think):

  Users/[username]/appdata/roaming/Adobe/CameraRaw/LensProfiles/1.0 (using a PC).  I use RAW files, but lightroom does not show the profile of correction as being available for my goal.  I downloaded a custom * *.lcp from Adobe and it went into a subdirectory under 1.0 "downloaded" heading, so I put a copy of my profile in there also.  I can see the downloaded profile. Still no luck with mine of Adobe Lens profile creator.  I know that most of the profiles of micro 4/3 lenses are applied automatically. Does this mean that Lightroom will not recognize my custom profiles?  I can apply a standard profile Canon or Nikon to my photos, so it does not resemble lens profiles are disabled for micro 4/3 images in itself.  Thanks in advance for any help.  R. Ikenberry

  Have you created the profile for RAW and not for jpg - they are different?

  Look for this line in the profile (several entries): stCamera:CameraRawProfile

• Why LR5.7 cannot automatically detect the Pentax lens DA645 28-45mm ED AW SR as all other aggrieved Pentax 645?

  LR 5.7.1 detect all the objectives of the Pentax 645Z, except the Pentax 28-45mm ED AW SR F4.5 DA645 HD. No 'objective' line is shown in the EXIF. For the correction of the objective no automatic lens selection, you must choose the profile of first entering lens 'Pentax' in the Type of device (no), then lens corrections are running.

  See these messages:

  http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3840584

  Lightroom: Pentax Lens undetected profiles

  Profile of lenses fails for Pentax D - FA Macro 100mm F2.8 WR

  Solution of having the lens automatically detected:

  (1) select a raw image taken with the lens in LR.

  (2) in correction lens to develop module > tab, select profile make the right model optical profile.

  3) click on Setup, then select "Save new lens profile by default is" as shown below.

  (4) you will need to do this for each goal that is not automatically detected.

  

  The correct lens profile should now automatically assigned when importing raw files.

  Unfortunately, this does solve the problem of the lack of the objective data used by LR for the filter toolbar and Panel metadata.

• Not available in Adobe Camera Raw 8.3 lens corrections

  Hello

  I hope someone may be able to help with an embarrassing problem, I met with cab 8.3. When I open RAW images in ACR 8.3 and select optical Correction I get the message "Unable to find a corresponding lens profile automatically" by default or Auto selected as installation program. When Custom is selected, I get the message "cannot load the profile of lenses.

  The strange thing is that if I open the image in Adobe Photoshop CC and select filter-> the purpose of lens profile Correction, I'm looking for is selected automatically. Interestingly, there are also a lot of other lenses profiles in the drop-down list not listed/displayed in ACR 8.3.

  Does anyone know why this is and also how to document available in Photoshop CC ACR 8.3 lens corrections?

  Thank you very much

  Nick

  Hi Nick,

  Thanks for the additional information.

  DJI 8.3 camera lens support is for the camera-generated JPEG images only. Support of RAW (DNG) file for this lens is in preparation and should be available in the next version of Camera RAW.

  Kind regards

  -Chris

• Correction lens problem

  I use a professional Nikon D3 and Nikon objectives which are all recognized by the Photoshop CS5 (12.04) Lens Correction function at the entrance of RAW images.

  But...

  If I treat any of my RAW files in Photomatix (save as jpg) and then open them in CS5 lens correction function only recognizes the images as having come from a Nikon Coolpix camera and I not give me the option to select a Nikon D3 and associated lenses.

  I understand that there is a certain lack of features because processing in Photomatix, but I would have hoped that I would have been given the opportunity to "replace" the function of lens correction and force him to recognize the Nikn D3 I use.

  This is not possible, or is it?

  Any help or advice would be welcome...

  Richard

  See if selection Nikon Corporation instead of Nikon camera made menu drop-down the menu makes a difference.