macros personal

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• Macros on Excel 2016 for Mac

  Hello

  I have an excel for work file that contains macros. Whenever I have run the macros, it only allows me to open it in the "Read-only" format I just downloaded the Office 365 Personal today because a technician told me that it will correctly open the macros. So, as far as I know, this is the newest version of office 2016. I use a Macbook Pro on El Capitan 10.11.1. Anyone know of any way that open correctly?

  The I talked to contact technical support couldn't solve and sent to "support professional" who said that I have to pay for a 365 Business just so I could get "Business Support" and they could fix I hope that my question. Don't know what type of blade support designed, but they recommend that I come here to see if my question could be resolved. It was also the only free resolution, they provided...

  Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.

  Ask on the forums Microsoft Mac because it is their software you are having problems with. There is MS named MVP here to help.  This forum is for troubleshooting the problems of compatibility between Mac and Windows.

  http://answers.Microsoft.com/en-us/Mac

• RX 100 Macro

  1. how to access quickly the Macro mode?
  2. the auto focus is not available in Macro mode? The manual focus mode is a little confusing to use/then compose.
  3. can I assign my Macro mode settings for quick access to the Macro and then return quickly to my P mode?

  4. I have to say that the manual is terrible, and the generic videos are pretty useless. Sony should pay attention to users of this device very expensive, but sweet.

  Hi 986598-USER... I'm one of the trainers of digital imaging in the Canada, and I think I can help you with some of your questions.

  The RX100 is ideal for close-ups of the Macro and there are several ways you can do. Pardon my numbering scheme is not your questions...

  1. dedicated Macro Mode - spin mode selector t the SNA mode selection, then use the directional control up/down to search for the macro icon (little flower). Once selected, you will now be in fully automated mode designed to close.

  2. Macro switching fast - if throwing himself in the scene mode menu and find the macro is too many steps to quickly find the macro mode, you can easily assign your three custom modes of MR (memory recall), quick access to macro.

  To make this selection mode Macro, or set the camera settings however you prefer, then press menu and look in the menus of settings 'memory '. Select it and it will bring you to a settings screen black with '1', '2' and ' 3' at the top. These are your slots available for custom modes. Use left/right on the rear wheel controls to select 1, 2 or 3. Once you select the desired location, follow orders of the screen to confirm. Now the settings in that you compound will be saved in numbered MR slot you have chosen. To switch quickly between priority to another, such as P as you suggested, just rotate the above MR control dial and select the corresponding number and you're there.

  I find using custom modes of MR particularly useful when shooting with the auto HDR function or when using image effects. I prefer to shoot in RAW format, but the HDR and image effects must be in Jpeg format. Instead of having to go, in the menu to change the JPEG quality momentarily and then again for a quick shooting creative I dedicate a MR slot to do this. This way I can RAW, but if I want to take a quick shot with effects or HDR I just turn the stem of the wheel and turn quickly to M-priority where my choice of RAW is preserved.

  3. the RX100 is always in macro mode! -You can use the dedicated macro mode which increases the bokeh (background of-focus) effect, but this mode is automated for opening/shutter and ISO. I would like to have full control over these exposure settings when I shoot so I shoot most of my stuff in macro manual priority or shutter priority. With an incredibly short development of 5cm, it is the wider focal length the RX100 is able to shoot macros fabulous in any mode you choose. It is designed to attract basically, dedicated macro mode is only a quick guide with some automation. Try to get close in P mode and see what you get!

  4. disorientation MF Assist mode - it is a very useful feature for the fine development, but when you are already very close, when the pleasure that it can a little difficult to 'see' what you are framing. You can disable this tool by entering you menus and by disabling 'MF Assist.

  5 AF in Macro mode? -Yes, the dedicated Macro mode is always with autofocus. If you shoot in P, A, S, M, you can enable or disable the AF options. I prefer to use M or S with active DMF. Direct manual focus is the best of both worlds... it gives you of AF, but also allows you to refine the results before pressing the shutter button completely. So, you get the convenience of autofocus, but can also add personal control to refine your focus by simply adjusting the front control ring. It's different than standard AF because the lens decides what is right downtown, and causes any attempt to manually change the lens fight your setting to refocus its ideal point. The AF is really good, but sometimes he needs a little help and with DMF, you have all the control.

  I hope that some of this aid... Sorry if it was a bit of reading. Please let us know if you have any questions about what I said!

  Now, get out there and shoot a few macros!

• order excel macros running

  I got Labview execution of macros very well.  I added a new structure of macro and where to add this feature, now it gives me an error on all macros.  ' cannot run the macro ","is not available", cannot be activated" is the jist of the error.  In addition, the labels for the structure of the case are now red.  I checked the spelling and order. THA tonly thing I can think is that I added a case before I added the enumerated constant.  I added the jurisprudence and have never had a problem, macros work when run manually, they are all in personal.xlsm!

  so, I thought about it.  I thought it was a problem of update of LabView, as these events have been cleared.  Anyway, he had to do with the VBA quirks.  When you import a .bas file, the name is listed on the LH is framed:

  put_title_here

  and the first line of code is

  Void put_title_here
  

  If you don't catch it on the VBA page.  When you goto the 'View' tab in excel and click the macro button, you will notice that the name is double.

  Personal.xlsm! put_title_here.put_title_here

  If the macro in the module 1 is on this sidebar LH name is normally listed when you open Excel. Sidenote, macros stored in this Module 1, enter any other time, the name double or sometimes triple as listed above.  It can get a bit ridiculous if you export versions and re-import for editing.  the way VBA saves and exports/imports is somewhat different from most other programs.  as a return to the 1990s.  in any case, the lesson learned.
  

• Re my previous message regarding flash MT-24EX macro

  As a new Member, I find that I'm a little hurt. I posted a message on my Canon MT-24EX twin lite flash macro. I received a reply asking for more information. I tried to answer, but somehow lost the converstion.

  Just in case it gets to the right person the flash was sent to Canon repair by Lehmanns as they organized the first repair. The only reference I have is Lehmanns which is MIS89505 dated 19/05/2016.

  Concerning

  Harry Shepherd

  Thank you, Robert.

  As I said that I'm a little, I made a post on the community of Cannon and received a reply asking for more information. I have really no idea what happened, but I can't find the post I did or the answer, so I guess that there is a person waiting for a response from me

  Harry

• Possibilities of macro?

  Thanks for reading this.
  I like to take pictures of things like insects and small lizards. I found a really cool Mantis yesterday in the garden and took some pictures of it. I used my 70-200 with the 1.4 tc which was pretty good, but I could of course not very close because the limits of depth of focus. I am considering getting the barrel extension tubes: EF 12 II and EF 25 II. What is a good way to go? Here's something that you would use as well as a tc on a 70-200? Or is the wrong type of lens for this kind of work? I also had an initial investigation of the flash macro circular rings. But I am assuming that they would work with my 70-200 cause of large diameter of the front element. He seems to have a lot of options for macro set ups. What kind if the installer should be to make the pretty decent macro shots? I was a big fan of Igor Siwanowicz' work for a very long time.

  See you soon,.
  CG.

  Hello

  As ebiggs says, there are several ways to make macro shots.

  Personally, I use a number of extension tubes (a set of Kenko of 3-36, 20 & 12 mm - more a 25mm cannon and two Canon 12 mm). These are always useful to have, and I wouldn't be without a few in my camera bag, all the time. They are inexpensive and can allow you to get this macro or close-up when you do not have a lens macro with you, or can be used to increase the capabilities of a true macro lens beyond magnification is 1:1 (general) potential, or simply used to get the nearest minimum focus distance with a telephoto lens.

  For example, this was shot with EF 70-200/2.8 IS, Canon 25 mm extension tube and 550EX flash (filling)...

  

  I have been hunting of birds and did not have a macro with my lens.

  For sub image to frame the small Bush * i * (replace the astericks with "t"... the cyber censorship allow me to use the actual name of this bird) as tight as I wanted, I needed to add a 36mm extension tube to an EF 500/4 IS lens, so that the lens to focus more closely...

  

  While they are not necessarily designed for the macro or almost macro work teleconverters (Canon calls Extenders) change the effective focal length of a lens, but leave its closest distance focal length quantity... so will increase the potential of magnification. In order to get the slot kick a little fence lizard, I have had to use time - Canon EF 1. 4 X II and an extension of 25 mm - 300/2.8 IS lens...

  

  More the focal length of your lens, the effect less any given amount of expansion will give. An extension of 25mm changes slightly the magnification and the closest focusing distance of a 300mm lens... But the same amount of extension on a 50mm lens would have dramatic effect.  Next image was shot with 12mm on the EF 50/1.4 lens extension...

  

  Even more extreme, the following was shot with 12mm on an EF 20/2.8 lens extension (I wanted an extra depth of field to keep more detailed background)...

  

  During the filming of the foregoing, the petals of flowers were actually touch the front element of the lens! Can't get much closer than that!

  The macro above or near macro shots were made using lenses "non-macro" that have been made to concentrate more than normally possible, using extension tubes. Those who can work, but there are some advantages to true macro lenses, too. I personally use four in my Canon Kit: Tamron SP AF 60mm f2.0, Canon MP-E 65mm f2.8, Canon 100/2.8 USM (not the L / IS) and Canon 180 / 3.5 L. I also use a Canon TS - E 45/2.8 for big jobs and occasionally a target macro Tamron SP 90/2.5 1:2 vintage, adapted.

  When you force non-macro lens to focus closer than expected, there may be side effects. For example, the shot of the rose bud above has a pretty strong vignetting and softer edges. It's characterisic of the EF 50/1.4 lens when it is done to focus very narrow and more openness is used... It is not necessarily a bad thing. I used the lens with extension deliberately for this one, because I wanted so much vignetting and soften the effects.

  One thing, you don't need to worry with 'real' macro lenses is image quality. In general, they are all very able to make beautiful pictures. It is lower for other features of macro lenses that set apart them from each other.

  Focal length is probably the main consideration. Too short a macro lens can get awfully close to your subjects, which could scare the living creatures, or do you throw an unwanted shadow on the subject or not even you bit or stung! A longer lens gives you more space to work, but a long lens is hard to get a stable shot and makes very very shallow depth of field.

  If I could have only one, I would choose my USM Canon EF 100/2.8 macro lens. It's the best all around for my purposes, on both devices of cultures (like yours, although I use 7Ds) and full frame (5 d MkII). 90 to 105mm gives the reasonable working distance, but it is quite easily portable for quick shots. DOF is still shallow, but manageable enough without resorting to ridiculously small openings where lighting is a problem and optical diffraction robs fine detal of images.

  Here's an example shot with my 180 / 3.5 L, which demonstrates how depth of field thin razor can get with such a long focal length...

  

  Even if it's a fairly large bee, the plan of sharpness is only of a few mm of depth. This was shot near 1:1 on full frame (with a film camera, actually). The lens and the camera are resting on the ground to help keep their constant. Something close to 100mm is much more easily portable, not too big and makes a bit more depth of field.

  There are other features of the Canon EF 100/2.8 USM which make a great macro lens, IMO.

  It's 'internal focus' (IF), which means that it does not grow in length when you focus it close, so don't cut your work remotely (note: 100L, Tamron 60/2 and 180 / 3.5 L are also IF lenses). However, there is no such thing as a free lunch, with optics. In order for the 100/2.8 if it starts raining that some other lenses of similar focal length. And the focus distance actually changes somewhat because it brought closer. I heard max with 1:1 magnification, it is closer to the 70mm lens... but it is not particularly notable in the field of work with the goal.

  100/2.8 USM macro lens on a crop sensor camera, with 550EX flash, pocket...

  

  Version 100/2.8 that I use has player development USM, which gives it an autofocus fast enough for a macro lens. Macro lenses tend to be slower to focus for a few reasons. One is that they must move their items focusing a long, long way to go all the way from infinity to 1:1 magnification. Another is that most precision signals more speed, so use what is called a mechanism of the development of "throw long". In the old days of manual focus, you have to turn the focus ring a lot more away with a target at long range. Short-range lenses were built for speed and could be used for sports photography. By car from the 100mm USM (who are also the EF - S 60 / 2.8, 100 and 180 / 3.5 L) makes more than one lens dual use, more usable for purposes of non-macro. Despite USM, the 180/3.5 L is significantly more slow development and not as useful for the non-macro works.

  I make the distinction between macro and non-macro focus because often the macro shooting focuses more easily manually. I use AF sometimes, but just as often or more often use the development manual method or the other.  But if you want to use as a non-macro, also, moderate telephoto lens it can be enjoyable if it is reasonably fast to the point. Another advantage of USM, it's that you haven't disable AF before substitution manually. (Note: there was a version prior to EF 100/2.8, abandoned years ago, that has no USM).

  For me, one of the most important features of the Canon 100 mm macro lenses is that they may fit with a Ruff of the tripod mounting. The 100/2.8 USM uses tripod ring B (b) and 100L tripod D ring. I'm not aware of any other macro lenses less than 150mm than a being mounted with a ring of tripod and for me, this is a very important feature. A lot of macro photography is made of a tripod or monopod. That is one of the reasons I really don't think that he had to upgrade to the new version IS..., the more it costs much more. In addition, the stabilization is of limited effectiveness when shooting macro... If this can be nice when you use the goal for non-macro purposes (except that I have several other lenses, so do not rely on the macro for dual use that much). The 180 / 3.5 L and most other 150 mm and more macro lenses equipped with a tripod ring.

  Speaking of stabilization, the Canon 100 L uses a hybrid form developed especially for macro, which obviously is one of the most effective. However, the 1:1 mag, it could only be good for one or two stops of assistance. For non-macro photos, the IS could give three or four stops assistance.

  I had the Tamron SP 60/2.0 recently because it is quite small and light, easy to store in my camera bag, when I don't know if I'll take any macro shots or not, have other gear to carry around. The same is true for the Canon EF - S 60/2.8 USM, it is just as compact. I opted for the Tamron for its opening of f2, mainly in order to use the lens for portraits, as well. Both the Canon and the Tamron 60 mm lenses are "cultures only" (all other macros mentioned are capable of FF).  I don't have the images uploaded of him online yet, but have found the quality to be good enough. It is a bit slow focusing... no problem for the macro or portraits, but not a goal I would use for sport and shooting action. I imagine that the Canon with its USM is developed faster.

  

  I used to use the vintage (25-30 years) Tamron 90 mm as my macro "compact" (shown on one of my 7Ds, above)... and he is used to this end but was less useful for portraits. Yet, for a goal which cost me about 60 US $. It's $20 for the lens - like new with hood, 1:1 adapter, caps and a Nikon Adaptall mount - plus $40 for a China Adaptall-EOS mount.  It is slower to work with. Set to manual focus, as well as manual control of the opening, but did a good job (here with the extension tube of 36mm to increase the magnification).

  

  The other lenses I mentioned use are more specialized. The Canon MP-E 65mm macro is a very high magnification, the manual focus lens. The magnification less he can give is 1:1, where most other macro lenses are at their maximum (unless you add extension for them tubes). It goes back to 5 / 1 or 5 X life size, so, essentially, can fill the frame on one of my 7Ds with a grain of rice.  Image made with the MP - E 65mm here is a tiny snail, newly hatched which was smaller than the nail on my pinky, at 2 X magnification...

  

  I must say, I would not recommend the MP-E 65mm as a first macro lens. It will especially be a lens only tripod. Depth of field is incredibly deep. Due to the extension of the objective, it's more small aperture of f16 becomes something like an effective f96 at higher magnification. I'll have to work on the development of techniques of stacking with this lens (and will need something much slower moving than a snail, shoot those!).

  I use the lens 'Tilt Shift' TS - E 45mm especially for close-ups of small product... Shoots of studio on table, like this that was one of hundreds of fact for the customer's Web site...

  

  Magnification with the 45mm alone isn't really the territory of the macro, but it allows a single control in terms of development with the tilt movements, as well as ways to dodge the reflections with the movements of travel. It is the manual focus lens, too. For higher magnfication work, the TS-E 90mm might be a better choice and magnification of two lenses can be increased by using extension tubes.

  As for flash, there are choices with those, too. There are specialized macro flashes or ways to use standard flashes for macro photos.

  I used a Canon MR - 14EX Ringlite for turned snail, above. I mainly only use a ring light with very high magnificatioin shots... to the low mags just light seems flat and 'clinical' for me. As far as I know, the MR-14EX is pretty much dedicated to Canon lenses, since it clips directly on the lens, locking silver that is on the Canon lenses.

  MR-14EX on MP-E 65mm, on 7 d...

  

  More often, especially for 1:1 magnification and more low blows, I use Canon MT - 24EX Twin Lite or a unique and standard flash with some minor changes. The Twin Lite is great, but a package large enough and not very useful for non macro. Also, it is designed to attach on the front of the Canon lenses, but is more flexible because it can be used with a more generic double flash support, too.

  Image of LH: MT-24EX normally mounted. Center: Double Lepp/Stroboframe flash support. Image of HR: MT-24EX on support Lepp.

     

  But do not use a dedicated, macro flash either. Often I will just use a flash unique and standard cord shoes off camera so that I can stand to the side of or above the object...

  

  Note that I put two coats of white qauze bandage on the flash head, maintained by a rubber band. This reduces and diffuse the power of the flash so that it can be used near a small subject. A single flash works surprisingly well, because compared to a small topic, it's like a giant light box in the sky. This Mantis was shot using something similar to the above setup (and EF 100/2.8 USM macro lens)...

  

  Enjoy you shopping!

  Macro is lots of fun... and a lot easier today than it was back in the good/bad old days of film! One of my old rigging...

  

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• volume and the SideWinder x 4 macro keys does not

  I just bought a Microsoft Sidewinder X 4 keyboard in the last days, and like him most of the time, but have noticed some problems with mine... First of all, on the desktop all buttons except the volume options work. Volume up, Volume down and Mute will not work. Is it possible to fix this? I tried reinstalling the drivers without change...
  Also practicing a game (I tried several games..) Only basic keyboard keys work. The macro keys and multimedia keys do not work during the games, only when the office. I searched through the forums and found a person "a background process had to be run as an administrator" to solve a similar problem, but they never mentioned that we...
  Windows 7 Home premium 64-bit.

  Wow, 6 months later... Honestly, I don't know exactly what it is... I think that it is several drivers supporting the same hardware... Deactivation of additional drivers allowed the driver to sidewinder to kick and actually give me most of the features of my keyboard...
  Yet cannot get the volume up, down, or put mute to work on this computer, so that they do it on my other...
  I can't remember how to program some macros haha.

• Shortcuts, macros and custom toolbar buttons

  One of the things I like about the word is that I can easily create a shortcut like ALT + N for normal text, and I can create a macro as a pre-formatted table to contain a Note image and text both as a button on the toolbar.
  
  Is that what I can do to automate HR, how to make a button for the independent search and replace tool on the toolbar?

  Make a right-click on the toolbar in RH7 allows customization to it but not, as far as I know, this one.

  MacroExpress is a software for automation of all kinds of processes, not just HR, bit like Multi file find useful and Replace are accessible through the tools pod, it might be a tricky to implement.

  Are you aware that is built in the case R & MFF, as many of these tools, limited to research on a single line that can give erroneous results? FAR or BKReplaceEm are much better. A LOT of http://www.helpware.net and is more polished. BKReplaceEm is free.

  Personally I never use built into the tool.

• I don't see the option for Personal Hotspot

  Dear Sir / Madam,.

  Please let me know why I can not see personal hotspot in my setting?

  If it is not possible to have this option, how can I share my network with someone?

  Thanks in advance

  Best regards

  Emilie

  Hi Sameneh...

  Follow the instructions in this article to support > share your Internet connection with Personal Hotspot - Apple Support

• ICloud Desktop & personal hotspot download Documents?

  I'm worried that MacOS can use my mobile for up & download iCloud Desktop & Documents when you use personal hotspot. Can anyone confirm it is (not) using personal hotspot for up & downloads?

  Hi FreekM,

  He does so, sorry

• 10 iOS is picking up strangers in the photos and adding them to the list of people.  How can I get rid of them completely.  That is, pictures that I don't like this person speak

  perfect strangers (people standing or sitting in the background of an image that I took) are appearing in my list of people and there is no obvious way to get rid of them.

  The only thing you can do about them is hide people or ignore them, if they appear in the section "Add people" from the album of peoples.

  If you hide a person detected, no photo with this person will be added to a memory.

  See this help page: http://help.apple.com/iphone/10/#/iph9c7ee918c

  Hide and show people. Tap Albums, people, press Select, tap on the people you want to hide, and then select hide. To redisplay the people, press on show hidden people, press Select, people, then press display. Photos that contain hidden people appear not in Moments, Collections, the years and memories but are visible in albums.

  Show hidden people. Press Albums, people, drag upward, on view hidden people. To see all the pictures with hidden people, tap Albums, tap Hidden.

• When I share a note with a checklist, I can see when the other person check of an item. I do not see when registering an item (it is disabled). Why?

  When I share a note with a checklist, I can see when the other person check of an item. I do not see when registering an item (it is disabled). Why?

  Try switching your Notes on / off under settings > iCloud or maybe restart the device-restart your iPhone, iPad or iPod touch - Apple Support to see if this could solve the problem.

• How to remove an album of "person" in photos (10 iOS)

  Hello

  I want to delete an entire album of a person in the People in Photos (10 iOS).

  I don't want to hide it, I want to remove it.

  It was created by mistake and actually... I tried to remove the only picture that was part of it, but now I have an empty album that I can't remove. It is written "1" under the number of photos in there, but it's actually empty.

  The only thing I can do with it is to hide...

  But it's stupid, I want to just remove the album completely.

  Any idea?

  Hi Thierry Beja,.

  I understand that you want to remove an album from your Photos app running the new iOS 10. No problem! You can manage your albums by following the steps below.
  
  

  Manage albums. When viewing your album list, tap on change.

  Rename an album: tap the name of the album, and then enter a new name.

  Rearrange albums: Tap to enlarge the thumbnail of the album, and then drag it to another location.

  Delete an album: press the button Delete.

  Note: You cannot delete photo albums created for you, as the people, places and Selfies.

  Organize photos and videos

  Please use the Apple Support communities to post your question. This should have deleted unwanted album without delay!

  Good day.

• Update of the absent or invisible e-mails in personal folders from Sierra

  My emails have disappeared from personal folders in Mail since macOS Sierra update from the previous version of El Capitan, indeed personal files themselves seem to be absent or invisible.

  New e-mails that arrived later, for which I put rules in place to move the email to a subfolder in my personal files seem to re-create or reveal part of the hierarchy of folder necessary to reveal or recreate the destination magically subfolder AND reveal not only the new email but also all other emails which were previously contained in this file. However, enamel and her sisters in this subfolder are actually visible once I left and reopened the Mail App.

  Very weird.

  Someone else had a similar problem and / or found a solution?

  Installed Sierra (from Yosemite) Wednesday. First I noticed that my Mail signatures had disappeared. Called Apple's Support, first of all a failure, was transferred to an older person. Repaired permissions, restored from Time Machine - still do not work. Discovered yesterday that some of my mailbox folders were empty, some had old messages, but not recent. A vain another senior tech and reported it to the engineering team.

  I have since discovered that the missing messages are there, but they are invisible in the boxes to the letters. When I do a keyword search, 'invisible' messages are returned in the search results (list as being in their appropriate folder), and I can read the full message of the search window. But if I open the file, it does not show.

  Also, I read in the Inbox of messages disappear after I read the. Demented.

• PPTP VPN does not work on Iphone Personal Hotspot

  Hello

  I've just updated to iOS 10 yesterday and now all my devices I use to connect to the personal hotspot on my iphone are not able to establish PPTP VPN connections. I was aware of the PPTP client are disabled in the iOS, but has actually blocked PPTP are not used by devices that connect to the Personal Hotspot?

  Please help ASAP, I know there are many more end-users like me having the same problem.

  Hello

  Apple does not recommend using the PPTP protocol for secure and private communication.

  iOS 10 and macOS Sierra intentionally delete a VPN profile PPTP connections when a user upgrades from their device.

  Apple recommends using another VPN protocol which is safer:

  More information:

  Prepare for removal of PPTP VPN before you upgrade to iOS 10 and macOS Sierra - Apple Support