RX 100 Macro

1. how to access quickly the Macro mode?
2. the auto focus is not available in Macro mode? The manual focus mode is a little confusing to use/then compose.
3. can I assign my Macro mode settings for quick access to the Macro and then return quickly to my P mode?

4. I have to say that the manual is terrible, and the generic videos are pretty useless. Sony should pay attention to users of this device very expensive, but sweet.

Hi 986598-USER... I'm one of the trainers of digital imaging in the Canada, and I think I can help you with some of your questions.

The RX100 is ideal for close-ups of the Macro and there are several ways you can do. Pardon my numbering scheme is not your questions...

1. dedicated Macro Mode - spin mode selector t the SNA mode selection, then use the directional control up/down to search for the macro icon (little flower). Once selected, you will now be in fully automated mode designed to close.

2. Macro switching fast - if throwing himself in the scene mode menu and find the macro is too many steps to quickly find the macro mode, you can easily assign your three custom modes of MR (memory recall), quick access to macro.

To make this selection mode Macro, or set the camera settings however you prefer, then press menu and look in the menus of settings 'memory '. Select it and it will bring you to a settings screen black with '1', '2' and ' 3' at the top. These are your slots available for custom modes. Use left/right on the rear wheel controls to select 1, 2 or 3. Once you select the desired location, follow orders of the screen to confirm. Now the settings in that you compound will be saved in numbered MR slot you have chosen. To switch quickly between priority to another, such as P as you suggested, just rotate the above MR control dial and select the corresponding number and you're there.

I find using custom modes of MR particularly useful when shooting with the auto HDR function or when using image effects. I prefer to shoot in RAW format, but the HDR and image effects must be in Jpeg format. Instead of having to go, in the menu to change the JPEG quality momentarily and then again for a quick shooting creative I dedicate a MR slot to do this. This way I can RAW, but if I want to take a quick shot with effects or HDR I just turn the stem of the wheel and turn quickly to M-priority where my choice of RAW is preserved.

3. the RX100 is always in macro mode! -You can use the dedicated macro mode which increases the bokeh (background of-focus) effect, but this mode is automated for opening/shutter and ISO. I would like to have full control over these exposure settings when I shoot so I shoot most of my stuff in macro manual priority or shutter priority. With an incredibly short development of 5cm, it is the wider focal length the RX100 is able to shoot macros fabulous in any mode you choose. It is designed to attract basically, dedicated macro mode is only a quick guide with some automation. Try to get close in P mode and see what you get!

4. disorientation MF Assist mode - it is a very useful feature for the fine development, but when you are already very close, when the pleasure that it can a little difficult to 'see' what you are framing. You can disable this tool by entering you menus and by disabling 'MF Assist.

5 AF in Macro mode? -Yes, the dedicated Macro mode is always with autofocus. If you shoot in P, A, S, M, you can enable or disable the AF options. I prefer to use M or S with active DMF. Direct manual focus is the best of both worlds... it gives you of AF, but also allows you to refine the results before pressing the shutter button completely. So, you get the convenience of autofocus, but can also add personal control to refine your focus by simply adjusting the front control ring. It's different than standard AF because the lens decides what is right downtown, and causes any attempt to manually change the lens fight your setting to refocus its ideal point. The AF is really good, but sometimes he needs a little help and with DMF, you have all the control.

I hope that some of this aid... Sorry if it was a bit of reading. Please let us know if you have any questions about what I said!

Now, get out there and shoot a few macros!

Tags: Sony Products

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    I used to use the vintage (25-30 years) Tamron 90 mm as my macro "compact" (shown on one of my 7Ds, above)... and he is used to this end but was less useful for portraits. Yet, for a goal which cost me about 60 US $. It's $20 for the lens - like new with hood, 1:1 adapter, caps and a Nikon Adaptall mount - plus $40 for a China Adaptall-EOS mount.  It is slower to work with. Set to manual focus, as well as manual control of the opening, but did a good job (here with the extension tube of 36mm to increase the magnification).

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    Magnification with the 45mm alone isn't really the territory of the macro, but it allows a single control in terms of development with the tilt movements, as well as ways to dodge the reflections with the movements of travel. It is the manual focus lens, too. For higher magnfication work, the TS-E 90mm might be a better choice and magnification of two lenses can be increased by using extension tubes.

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    MR-14EX on MP-E 65mm, on 7 d...

    More often, especially for 1:1 magnification and more low blows, I use Canon MT - 24EX Twin Lite or a unique and standard flash with some minor changes. The Twin Lite is great, but a package large enough and not very useful for non macro. Also, it is designed to attach on the front of the Canon lenses, but is more flexible because it can be used with a more generic double flash support, too.

    Image of LH: MT-24EX normally mounted. Center: Double Lepp/Stroboframe flash support. Image of HR: MT-24EX on support Lepp.

       

    But do not use a dedicated, macro flash either. Often I will just use a flash unique and standard cord shoes off camera so that I can stand to the side of or above the object...

    Note that I put two coats of white qauze bandage on the flash head, maintained by a rubber band. This reduces and diffuse the power of the flash so that it can be used near a small subject. A single flash works surprisingly well, because compared to a small topic, it's like a giant light box in the sky. This Mantis was shot using something similar to the above setup (and EF 100/2.8 USM macro lens)...

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