MF on 16-35 2.8 L USM II after a sign of infinity

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  I have a 70-200mm F4 L USM Canon's, he started to act erratic plastic clicking noise, random automatic manual focus. I took the plate on the side of the lens of the camera, the AF/MF focus switch and switches have come off, I can't get back them on even though they work. I'll attach a picture to show what I mean. Help, please

  «.. . Please help. "

  OK, call the Canon Service.

• New EF 70-300mm f/4-5, 6 IS II USM lens

  Does anyone know if the manual control of AF on this goal is not yet published will require pressing the shutter halfway?

  You are referring to the process required for the STM lenses?

  It shouldn't because it's a USM lens.

• Maximum thickness of CPL on II USM 16-35

  Hello

  I'm about to buy a 16-35mm USM II lens for 6 d body and I wanted to know what is the CPL filter thickness recommended maximum to avoid vignetting .7mm can be thick?

  Thank you

  Did you mean 7mm? I use the low profile the CPL, which is 5 mm thick and it works very well with the 16-35. But you don't want to use it on the sky due to the effect of polarization not even with objective wide angle. I recommend the framework of 5mm.

• 70-200 F2.8 IS USM III?

  Y at - it a scheduled update, or rumor to the legendary canon 70-200 F2.8 IS USM II? It has been five years since the update and I want to get one, but not if it will be updated in the next season.

  Thank you

  Kevin

  Lenses in general don't you a refresh unless there is a reason to make an update.

  The EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM (original) was (and still is) a VERY good lens.   The brand 'II' version of this improved lens - lens is very very slightly more sharp in the Center and slightly more slightly sharper on the edges. Image stabilization is also improved.

  The Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM II is currently not just the best of 70-200 lenses that can fit on your gun... but the best lens in this category in the whole of the industry (nobody does a better 70-200).

  Sigma, Tamron, and Nikon have all the lenses either the same or very similar focal length ranges available with opening of f/2.8... but they all have very important questions "breathe."  All lenses have questions of "breathing" to a certain extent.  "Breathing" means that if you look very carefully at the edges of your frame, and then change the focus, you will notice that as the focus changes, the goal seems also to be zoom in or out (just of the changing object - is not in contact with the zoom ring).

  On the Canon, this "acquire" is insiginficant... at the end of 200 mm, respiration can change by maybe 10 mm tops.  But the Sigma, Tramron and Nikon versions have significant breathing... depending on your purpose, your focal length can be only 130 or 140 mm (even though the zoom ring says you're at 200).

  I think that you are pretty safe in this Canon custom likely update this lens anytime soon.  There is simply not any reason, update again.

• EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM

  Just bought an EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM lens.  Is there anyone in this community of Canon that can offer backs or things on this goal.  Any information would be helpful.  Thank you.

  I'll assume you mean the version to push, but in general this applies to it & new. Use mode 1 IS for stationary subjects & mode 2 for panning. Use the limiter switch to speed the AF response on things that are further away & do NOT forget to re set during the filming of things inside the extreme limit of range switch controls. If you have not used a long lens before maintain high shutter speeds until you develop the right technique.

  If this is the version to push does too tighten the ring that locks / apply the voltage to the Canon zoom.

• Should I spend an EFS 18-55mm on a Canon EF 17-40mm f / 4L USM for landscapes? With the help of a Rebel T3i

  Only done photography for about a year. Wife bought me a Rebel T3i Kit with two Lenes. I'm really into photography outdoor. I installed myEFS 55-250 in a series of 100-400mm L I was going to buy a better lens for landscape and try to keep less than $1000. I think EF 17-40mm f / 4L USM. Better landscapes or is there a better choce range of price thanks

  I would not recommend the EF 17-40mm for your T3i. The EF 17-40mm is really designed to be used as a goal of the ultra wide angle on Full Frame cameras. One of the major is the lack of IS. (Image stabilization)

  For a camera of culture as the T3i, I recommend:

  Lens EF - S 18-55mm IS STM (very good upgrade to the 18-55 kit lens)

  Lens EF - S 18-135mm IS STM

  EF-S 15-85mm IS lens

  EF-S 17-55mm 2.8 IS lens

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• Given to nine EFS 17-55 2.8 USM

  I've recently updated my old kit lens (18-55) for my RebelXS with a refurbshed EFS 17-55 2.8 USM and were a little disappointed that my nature photos have not been that much greater. Any ideas or advice out there? Is there an apeture setting which is best for sharpness with this lens?

  Thank you

  Do you have mounted your new lens with a filter of "protection"? If so, remove it. I saw filters get dirty with focus and sharpness.

  You have the lens hood? Otherwise get it and use it instead of the filter. It provides protection for the right lens and can even help with emphasis in keeping some oblique light-off the lens.

  Most lenses have stop down a bit. Ideally, a f2.8 lens may be the best at f4, although it is likely still enough 'usable' expansion Xtreme. Even stopped down to f4 to all its focal length is always a little better that your old kit lens, where closing window would place f5 at one end of the zoom range and f8 to another.

  I agree with the previous answer, too... be careful not to use too small an opening. Beyond F8 diffraction will start to steal the image of small details. At f11 it's probably little that they aren't a problem, but I do that on my limit on a device to sensor harvest like yours. Avoid the f16 and f22.

  The 17-55 also has IS, which may or may not have your 18 - 55. IS can help a lot with sharpness, especially at slower shutter speeds. I would use it all the time when shooting handheld or on a monopod... even on a tripod "loose." However, if locked securely on a tripod, it may be necessary to manually turn off IS at the level of the switch. I am not sure of the 17-55, but on some lenses with stabilizer, when there is absolutely no movement that IS can go into the sort of a feedback loop that actually causes a movement! That may resemble low sharpness. So if you use the lens firmly locked on a tripod, try to disable the IS.

  Another advantage of the upgrade, the 17-55mm USM focus which is significantly better than the micro motor in your kit lens. It might not be too visible in good light, but in more difficult situations I bet you will find the updated faster lens to the point, as well as more uniform and precise... more silent, too.

  There's a chance that what you bought is not to spec for some reason, he might even have gotten damaged in transport. I suggest that you go shoot a lot with her and see if you can not get good results. You can do a few carefully controlled tests with the camera and lens on a tripod and to shoot a detailed subject as a wall or a fence damaged. If after a few additional tests and shooting you still think that the lens may be defective, talk to Canon to check or make an exchange for you.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Canon lens EF 70-200mm L F4 USM + 2 X L series extender

  Hi, I have a Canon lens EF 70-200mm L F4 USM. Now, I want to buy an extension of series X L 2. Can someone help me by informing that AF can work with EF 70-200mm L USM F4 + 2 X Extender mounted on 650 d device and how much image quality I have to make compromises for the same thing.

  mithun_pal129 wrote:

  Thank you all for your valuable comments. I forgot to mention that my intension of extender to my EF 70-200mm L F4 USM in a telephoto lens for wildlife / birds. But now that I'm your stay in Abu Dhabi, he is not paid a lot of bird / wild life. This is why I don't want to spend a lot on super telephoto, and personally, I don't want to go to cheap Sigma lens. So I wanted to do objective 70-200mm + 2 Expander x 140-400 mm. As I myself feel 1.4 X extender is pretty good, but it will give me up to 280mm. I know that's not very good lens for bird / wild raise photography. But you want to know still is feasible or if I use 2 x Extender to make the 400mm autofocus lens is required for the wild life or manual focus can still operate at F8. I don't have a lot of experience in the photography of wild life that's why I wanted to know things.

  In a Word... N °

  Of a 2 X teleconverter on a 70-200/4 made for a lens of 140-400/8 "effective." Due to the reduction of light reaching the AF sensors, your camera will turn off autofocus. A stronger 2 X also "costs" more loss of quality of the image due to the deterioration.

  It is possible to tape on some of the electronic contacts on the focal length multiplier, so that the camera does not know it is there and always try to auto focus. However, the autofocus will be much slower and will tend to hunt much more.

  In some situations, you may be able to manually update. However, effective f8 makes for a pretty weak sight, most cameras update automatic modern as you do not have some fo the features allowing the development manual, vintage cameras designed for the manual focus had in the past. Some people change to one-third of frosted glass to add functionality to support manual focus (split finder image, micro diaprisms, for example). However this requires careful work to install the screen and the display of different can affect precision measurement of the camera, especially in the incorrect Spot metering.

  Addition of a lower 1.4 X teleconverter makes your lens in effect 112-280mm f5.6, who will still be updated with auto focus and will be much less loss of image quality, but not as much 'reach. If yours is a goal IS, it can reasonably be handholdable. If it is not a goal IS, you will need to watch your shutter speeds than blur carefully, probably should keep to 1/500 or more quickly to avoid the camera. Or use a tripod, as suggested by ebibgs, or at least a monopod. You also need to limit the autofocus on your camera to the central AF point only, I think.

  ebiggs1 wrote:

  On your camera, the 70-200mm f4 is like a 112-320mm f4.  With a converter 1. 4 x, looking at 448mm f5.6 and th elong end.  + 400 mm should be long enough for you to get photos of some birds.  BTW, use a tripod.

  While it is technically correct, citing the "crop camera lens factor" in this way may not help much, can be confusing.

  The original poster has simply a 70-200mm lens which they are accustomed to using on a crop sensor camera. They would now like to double the range of this lens on their camera. Crop sensor lens incorporating conversation factor is very useful when the user goes from frame of film/full to reframe the camera or vice versa. For someone who has never used a film camera or has not used one for many years and is now completely accustomed to how behaves a lens of focal length on their device to harvest, it is a completely moot point.

  But what he's basically saying that while you can add a 2 X, it is probably not a good idea for several reasons. Auto focus will work or not, with a few tips, won't work only weakly. Manual focus will be difficult. And the picture quality might take too big a hit, combining a 2 X with your goal. .

  I have a 70-200/4 IS, 70-200/2.8 IS ("Mark I"), 1. 4 X II and 2 X Teleconverters II. I also have long telephoto lenses, so rarely need to add these zooms teleconverter. However if necessary I would use 1.4 X on one of them. But even if AF still work on the 70-200/2.8 + 2 X combo, I won't use it because of the amount of loss of image quality (the most recent IS of 70 - 200/2.8 Mark II and 2 X Mark III are supposed to work together better, than my older versions of each).

  I use mostly 2 X on 300/2.8 and 500/4 lenses privileged where the image quality is still good. (Note: Yes, on some of my cameras 2 X 500/4 causes AF to stop working, as it would on your f4 lens, so I only use the combo on a limited basis.)

  mithun_pal129... I would say the more you get a 1. 4 X and use it with your goal. See if the image quality is to your expectations. Then work to get closer to your subjects. Or bring them closer to you. Practice the techniques of stalking and to study the behaviors of your subjects to discover ways to get closer. Work in a blind and use bait (food, calls). And start saving for a lens of longer focal length.

  The Canon 1.4 X II and III teleconverters are excellent. All Canon teleconverters have mated before elements that limit the lenses that they physically can be attached, but the 70-200 are among those where this is possible. Teleconverter Kenko is another that I see quite often recommended. They have two different levels of quality: a more expensive "Pro 300" version and a cheaper "MC - 4". These are currently offered in versions "DGX" whose operation is very similar to Canon teleconverters. Old Kenko teleconverters "DG" not "reported" to the camera, the camera didn't know they were there, so try to focus.  In the view of users and tests I've seen, the current Kenko Pro 300 DGX is pretty good overall of the entire image area. The MC - 4 cheaper is actually a little sharper in the Center, but not as strong in the corners and the edges of the image. Tamron and Sigma teleconverters also do, but I have little experience or knowledge of the current versions of the people.

  The wildlife/bird photography is not easy. Since no matter how long a goal that you have, there are times when the subjects are just out of reach and all you can go is to sit back and enjoy the show.

  These photos of small subjects with different, but close to or less than the effective focal length even lenses like your 70-200 mm + a 1. 4 X teleconverter would be on your camera...

  

  

  

  

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• How to get decent macro shot with my T3i + EF 70-300mm f/4-5. 6 IS USM

  Someone here can direct me to a good tutorial on getting the macro shots decent with my objective T3i + EF 70-300mm f/4-5. 6 IS USM?  I'm pretty good in online searches, but I can't find are reviews and unboxings .  Even the manual I found isn't really give instructions re: macro, even if the lens itself says '1.5m/4.9ft MACRO' right on it.

  Thank you very much in advance for any help!
  Deb

  To use the lens for close-up photography, zoom focal length max (300mm for example) and run the tune-up to the minimum focus distance.  The distance of the development of saddle is close enough consider it is a zoom 70-300mm lens... but it's nowhere near as close as a dedicated macro lens to true.

  You can get close... There are two ways to do this.

  (1) you can use a near plan diopter.  So that the lens you want the Canon telephoto lens 500 d (specifically you want the version with diameter of 58 mm threads to attach to the front of the lens 70-300 mm).  It's about $85.  It is a goal to two elements (which is good better than any diopter close-up of part 3).

  (2) you can use "extension tubes".  An extension tube is (believe it or not) exactly what the name says... it is a hollow tube... and it extends the distance between the lens and the camera body.  You attach to the camera (such as a lens) and then set the goal to draw instead of the body.  This positions the lens away from the plan of the image inside the unit and, therefore, range full tune-up of the camerea is shifted more near the camera (focusing more close distance was 1.5 meter without extension tube, but will be reduced to 42 centimeters just with the attached Canon 25 mm extension tube).  It allows not only the camea to focus at a distance closer, it also increases the size of the image) extension Tubes don't have any glass in there - they are completely hollow.  The body of the tube a pine e-mail to transmit signals through so that the camera body and the lens will always be able to communicate.

  The Canon 25mm extension tube is about $140.  Kenko is another popular brand (their tubes are delivered as a 'game' of three different lengths).

  Whether you use tubes extension or close-up diopters, Cannon suggests that you should manually focus the lens.

  When you arrive at very close distance of focus, depth of field can become quite shallow.  If shallow you can't get as much of your subject in focus as you want.  Use the Hard-Core (a) macro photographers a tripod (because after precisely focusing...) "If your body moves a few millimeters, it may completely lift the subject outside the home).  If you do not want to make sure that you do not move (and the best way to do that is usually to use a stationary object to hold the camera - as a tirpod.)

  They can also use a technique called "focus stacking."  The development of stacking is to take several pictures.  You take a picture, tweaking the development by a few millimetres and take another shot and repeat until you have enough plans to stack the subject of front-to-back with all the positions of different orientation.  The images are then merged using software (Photoshop will do, but there are third-party products that are dedicated to the development of stacking as well.)

  I did it by wrapping a piece of tape around the ring to focus on my goal.  I then focus point of closest focus and use a marker to mark this point (on the Strip).  Then I focus on the point most distant from the focus I care and mark this spot on the Strip as well.  Now I take a series of photos... each, then slightly focus a little bit at a time, take another picture, and repeat until I got enough to get the closest points to the farthest, I scored on that tape.

  More difficult Basic macro photographers will sometimes use what is called a rail development.  It is a track that Mount you on the tripod and then set the camera to a carrier rolling on "rail".  Rail has fine adjustment that allow to move the camera with control.  You run the rail back (furthest point), then focus your goal for the closet focusing point on your topic.  Rather than turn the ring on the lens... you use the buttons on the focus rail - which physically moves the camera forward.

• drive hard Seagate usm is not recognized by the computer.

  Windows 8 does not recognize my portable hard drive Seagate USM when I insert into the computer Bay USM.  The computer is a new Lenovo K450 Windows 8.

  Thanks Ronnie,.

  I contacted Lenovo on the K450 and they said that their computer would only recognize drives of 500 GB USM and mine are 1 TB.  I asked if he would support the discs from 1 to 2 to in the future and they said that it is not in their plans.  Meanwhile, my Seagate drives will connect via cable USB3 Lenove USB3 ports.

  Ken

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• Correction for Canon EF-S 18-135 IS USM lens

  Correction data for the Canon EF-S 18-135 IS USM lens could there be in Lightroom? I see not listed in my installation, but there may be an update that I can get to add it or I can manually download it somewhere? If not, anyone know when I can expect it to be available? The lens has been out for a few months now.

  Hi mithunc,

  Feierwoon is correct, as the list of lenses supported by this profile is not yet included. But, you can try using Adobe Lens profile downloader and download the profile created and presented by the community of users.

  Kind regards

  Assani

• Canonobjektiv EF 500 F4 L IS II USM - Profilkorrekturen

  Hallo,

  so ist das Canon Lens EF 500 F4 L IS II USM in den Profilkorrekturen von LR CC nicht aufgefuhrt?

  Kann mir helfen someone?

  Gruss

  Hape

  Hi hape101

  • You can use Adobe Lens profile creator to create your own profiles customized if no profile exists for your goal

  
  

  • Note: Adobe Lens profile Downloader allows you to find and download custom profiles that have created other customers.

  Concerning

  Sarika

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  It is included, but it's a raw profile only.

  There are also two on the Downloader, which I made.  It has nothing to do with her out.

• Blurry pictures of Canon 70-300 mm IS USM

  Recently, I bought a new 70-300 IS of Canon (not the white L). I was clicking famingoes and other waders. Used servo focus and another shot in with a wide aperture aperture priority mode. I was not too impressed by its 300 especially sharpness. Sharpness that I get with my 18-135 STM is much better compared to the 300 especially when cropped. Given that the investment is already made and I can't redeem another lens, also what is the best way out. How can I improve sharpness. What telephoto lens gives the best sharpness. I should send him for a check. It is under warranty. What could be the best option if I were to sell it buy a new one.

  After that I got problems, I read on the net that the sharpness of this lens is not good at all. I wonder why Canon always sell or not done something about it. It doesn't have a reputation to save.

  I take it as a given that you cannot return a new lens for where you bought it.  What is the number of complete, exact model for the lens that you are talking about?

  What camera do you use with the lens?  Some devices have AFMA, Auto Focus Micro adjustment.  Zooms were long to sacrifice the image quality for the convenience of multiple focal lengths, but they got a lot better over the years, especially in the medium price range.

  Several zooms perform better and worse, to certain ranges of their focal lengths.  It is not uncommon that telephoto zooms to, suffer a decline in the quality of the image at the upper end of their range of zoom.  However, you may see pictures of the development.

  If you take pictures handheld, try taking some of a sturdy tripod, just to see if the camera shake is what you see.  Additionally, make sure that the Image stabilization is turned on when handheld using it and do not move the appliance too fast.

  [EDIT]  Can post you a picture of the sample?