Tasks on Z3C lens rear

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• Task on the lens!   D:

  I shot a nice underwater scene, but there is a kind of squiggle that stays in the same place in the video.
  Please, use photoshop to get it out?

  Hi EditingStudentGuy,

  You might not be able to do it easily with Photoshop, but it is possible to do it with a bit of work in After Effects! This tutorial shows you how to do this here:

  If you are a subscriber to creative cloud, you can download After Effects for free here: https://creative.adobe.com/

  Otherwise, you can download a free trial of After Effects from the same link.

• G1X mark II defining function rings

  I just upgraded to a s90 to a G1x Mark II. In manual mode, the lens ring is what distinguishes the APERATURE, ISO speed, shutter etc.. Is there a way to define the "circle of service" at the back of the camera to take some of these functions?

  On the s90, the "circle of service" makes these tasks as the lens ring to zoom.

  Thank you.

  Hi AlanBrownArt. The knob at the back of the camera can be set for a variety of functions. To access this feature, turn on your camera in shooting mode, then press the MENU key. Now, scroll down to the assignment function and press the FUNC SET button. This feature is more completely described, starting at page 105 of your User Guide PowerShot G1 X Mark II camera.

• Canon, in the face of fast moving subjects 18-55 kit lens?

  Hi everyone, I'm new here.

  I was doing one shoot the other day on very fast subjects that changed a lot of direction (dogs). Got some good shots but the vast majority were evil out of the home, which was a real shame. I want to know if it's the lens, the body or my technique that does not reach me.

  I'm relatively new to photography, so maybe it's that my settings are wrong or my technique is bad. I'm using the lens wide open, not mode live view with servo AF on a 600 d body. Usually when I focus I pan just the camera turn to follow the subject, sometimes pressing down when I want to shoot.

  I plan the upgrade to the 17-55 f2.8 because it is sharp wide open and has a constant and fast opening and USM and full-time manual focus with a correct focus ring.

  Thank you.

  Your problems are probably due to a combination of factors. IMO, auto focus performance is determined by three things...

  1. camera AF capabilities. Your 600 d has 9 AF points system. Only one of these points - the center one - is the "best" type of cross that is more responsive and follows the movement better. When shooting moving subjects with your camera, it would be useful to limit yourself to using only the central point. (Note: other Canon cameras have more advanced systems of the AF.) T4i, T5i, 60 d, 50 d and 40 d has 9 AF points that looks like, but all nine points are the cross-type sesnors 'better '. The 7 d and 70 d AF 19 points, with all of the nineteen cut type. 5DIII and 1DX 61 points AF with up to 41 Cup type, depending on the lens used.)

  Some cameras are also optimized for performance development. For example, the models of the series 1 d and 7 d have a separate chip driving AF... While most (maybe all?) other models share the tasks of AF by the same processor that handles images.

  2 capacity autofocus lens: Yes, a reader of "USM" (Ultrasonic Motor) objective as the EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 would be an improvement on your kit lens. It is faster, less hunting and is quieter than a 'micro' such as is used in the cheaper kit lens. (Note: there is a version a bit more of the 18-55mm with drive focus "STM" or "Stepper motor", which is better than the micro motor version, but still not as fast as USM.) STM lenses are running silent and particularly well suited for video.)

  A larger aperture, like the 17-55 / 2.8 (as opposed to your 18-55/3.5-5.6), offers more light to the camera AF sensors, allowing for faster and better follow-up.

  No, forget all the EF 50/1.8... Of course, he got more openness, but it uses a micro motor and is widely known to be developed slower, less accurate and likely to hunt more than a USM lens. If you want a quick and of course focusing in short and medium telephoto, look to the EF 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 100/2 or L-135/2 lenses. These all use USM drive and are much faster and more accurate than the EF 50/1.8. They have also one or two larger max aperture stop that even the 17-55 / 2.8 (or any other zoom lens), provide more light for the camera to work with. Using a f2.8 lens or "faster" will give optimal performance on your camera, with the centre of focus.

  A few drinks simply are not designed to be developed fast, even if they have more large openings and USM focus. Macro lenses, for example, have to move their focus group a long, long way to go from infinity to 1:1 magnification tends to be slower. In addition, very large aperture lenses such as the 85 / 1.2 L are generally slower... Design. Very large aperture lenses and macro focus on precision, to deal with the shallow depth of the effects on the ground, rather than speed.

  Other objectives are designed to the very fast development. All 70-200, the 100-400 and all the first 300mm lenses and more, are quite fast focusing. Extreme telephotos such as 500 and 600 mm can be difficult to get and keep on target, however.

  Some third-party lenses also make use of similar to Canon's USM development drive, to help the performance of the update. Sigma HSM and Tamron lenses USD are examples.

  3. skills of the user is the third key factor making the update performance... that is, your technique.

  You mention servos 'AF '...  Just to clarify, yourcamera has three focus modes: one-shot, HAVE Focus and AI Servo... There is no "Servo AF. The correct mode to use with moving subjects is AI Servo. Perhaps what you are already doing. In any case, One Shot is almost only used with stationary subjects (there are techniques of 'pre-focus' where it can be used with moving subjects, but those who are rarely used). I Focus is not really a foucs mode at all... It is supposed to decide for you, if the subject is moving, then change to use the correct mode. I have not tested on a recent, but older model where I tried, I found a slight delay that causes a lot of discussion missed shots. He also simply chose the wrong mode sometimes. It might be interesting to note that Canon more pro-oriented models have same AI Focus... they offer only One Shot or AI Servo.

  So, make sure that you are using AI Servo to maximize performance when shooting moving subjects.

  You also use a slow shutter speed. I inflate the ISO and try to use 1/500 or faster shutter speeds. 1/320 or 1/400 is very marginal, trying to stop the movement of the subject with something as fast as the dogs in action. In fact, more you are close to the subject, shutter speed more fast you will really need to freeze movement.

  Cannon also noted that the 18MP models are a little prone to blur shake camera - probably because of the high density of pixels on the sensor sites - and recommends keeping shutter speeds upwards to be sure to get a sharp shot, even with IS lenses. There was a white paper on this subject, on the Canon website. I don't know if it is still available online.

  You should be able to get nice images, specific to ISO 1600... a complete stop of two higher and you to use much faster shutter speed. However, if the indoor shooting it may be areas that are not as well informed and are hard to get a sharp shot.

  You can shoot RAW files, so that you can more fully control noise reduction and factors in post-processing exposure when using high ISO.

  A popular technique among photographers of sports/action is back button to the point. See this article online, on this subject: http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml

  BBF separates the function of the development of the trigger. You use rather your thumb on one of the rear camera buttons to start and stop the development. Many users feel that this allows more safe and followed acquistion with moving subjects. You can configure your camera for BBF and give it a try. It is possible for action/sport/HAVE Servo shooting, it's actually usable once, too... I used it enough only for a few years now.

  With the help of BBF, I start AF well before that I want to take the picture, then focus on the maintenance of the area to focus on the right of the subject where I want the lens to focus continuing to follow and maintain the emphasis... then take pictures along the way. I use the Center Focus point alone, much of the time. This could lead to too centered images, so I try to fit a little loose from time to time, allowing cropping to make that fewer centered images. I sometimes use other than the Center AF point... but who wouldn't recommend with action shot on a camera that does not have the type sensors crossed to peripheral issues, such as your 600 d.

  I use a pair of 7Ds and a number of USM lenses fast development of shoot a lot of sports. With a few years of practice under my belt, on avearage I nail focus on 95 to 98 on 100 shots using this type of gear with the above techniques. I turned to 4000 images at an event recent and marked about 30 people like "rejected" to missed focus problems (and I bet at least half of those who are my fault... not the machine). There may be a few others that are marginally acceptable (i.e., can make an 8 x 10 beautiful print, but seem not good any more greater than). Yet, even if there are 80 or 120 spleen focus, it is only 2 or 3%... much better than only 10% in short.

  I would say that qualities of objective performance and user techniques generally count more than the camera well, or at least can largely compensate for any camera shortcomings. I got results almost as good 50 d and 30 d before it (which were similar to your 600 d AF system) and even with 10 days earlier ("lower" than your AF system). Although I'm a bit away, I didn't like good luck shooting moving subjects using 5 d Mark II (I mostly just use it for stationary subjects)... the 5 d Mark III has a much better AF system and follows the movement much better.

  I hope this helps!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Firefox is constantly stopping, aging, and does not when on the home page yahoo uk, Manager of the tasks is that means to stop it, no event will block

  Latest version of Firefox, keep up to date. 8.1 Windows running on del optiplex 620, 2 GB of ram, 80 GB disk partitioned with Win10 on the other. Panda free av and malwarebytes free running. Never had any problem with Win 8.1 up to now, I have returned to it because of many problems with Win 10. Did you check Event Viewer, nothing, checked for crash report, nothing. No malware not reported. Whenever the only solution is to stop Fox with the Manager of the tasks and then restart when Fox goes back to where she was.

  https://UK.Yahoo.com/ I noticed no problem in the last two sessions, perhaps the problem is resolved, will not display rear reccurrence as appropriate.

• icon of the taskbar right-click menu 'task' gone

  When I right click on the taskbar icon, I used to get several options, including a section called tasks. However, for about two days, I now only get three options of Mozilla Firefox, remove this program from the taskbar and close the window. I don't know where the options to open a new tab, open a new window, etc. I did change all the parameters of topic: config and tried to reinstall firefox without success. If there is a possible fix, please help.

  Edit, I rechecked to the subject: config just now and found that browser.taskbar.lastgroupid keeps returning to the user being bold. I'm certain I have reset the first time, but I did it again for fun and at least for now I seem to have the right click menu rear complete with tasks and frequent. Thank you so much Gingerbread Man and someone else who posted suggestions. Your a lifesaver!

• I've got dust under my camera lens cover!

  So, as I said, I have a few dust particles under my rear camera lens cover (the small round glass piece located at the back of the phone, covering my cam). I think that's it through the microphone next to the camera, but I do not know how to remove it. Really annoying, so far I did not any impact on my pictures, perhaps, they got a little more blurry...

  I still have the warranty for my phone (iPhone 5 s btw), but I have a tiny crack loosed on my screen, just next to the home button, so I don't know if they will clean it free of charge in an Apple Store, we all know Apple... Any suggestions guys?

  Hi aimware.exe,

  Thank you for using communities of Apple Support. Certainly, I understand your concern with the dust particles and hairline crack for your screen. Looks like your phone will need to be examined to determine the best option for that to be resolved.

  Use this link to find the service options in your area.

  iPhone Service answer Center

  Have an amazing day!

• How to re - map home/front/rear end on Mac FF?

  The home keys and end seem to be mapped to the rear and the before sailing on Firefox for Mac. When I'm in the middle of filling out a form or write a message and try to navigate to the beginning / end of a line, it's EXCRUCIATING when my browser navigates away and I lose my current job.

  I am a user of Mozilla die hard and would never consider switch to a different browser on a petty feature disparity, but this seemingly innocent question is driving me crazy and let me do my work.

  I tried the complement of Keyfixer is longer supported, but it did not work. I also use KeyRemap4MacBook, who has customized for FF/TB remapping to fix this, but alas, it does not work. Help, please!

  The support article does not mention these actions originate or end: hotkeys - quickly perform common Firefox tasks.

  What is a characteristic of one of your extensions? You can try the Mode without failure of Firefox to avoid interference by the extensions (and some custom settings). More info: questions to troubleshoot Firefox in Safe Mode.

  You can restart Firefox in Mode safe help

  Help > restart with disabled modules

  In the dialog box, click on 'Start mode safe' (not Reset)

  Any difference?

  Speaking of extensions, something like Lazarus Form Recovery may bring some short-term relief (I don't use it myself): https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/lazarus-form-recovery/

• Lens EF - S v Lens EF - Crop Factor (factor of Conversion of Image)

  Good evening

  Please excuse me if this is a stupid question.

  If I use a lens EF-S on a camera with an APS - C sensor, the sensor capture is all that I see in the viewfinder, i, e, with a ratio of 1:1?

  In other words; the EF-S-objectives overcome the factor of Conversion of Image or Crop Factor happening with EF lenses on cameras with an APS - C sensor?

  The Crop Factor means that what you see in the viewfinder is more that actually he is captured by the sensor by a ratio of 1: 1. 6.

  I understand that the rear of the EF-S lens is more close to the mirror and, therefore the sensor, as the rear of the EF lens, which leads me to think that the image seen through the viewfinder with an EF-S lens is closer to that which will appear on the sensor than an EF lens.

  Thanks a lot for any response that confirms or refutes my guess, preferably with an explanation in simple terms.

  Joe.

  The ' in the name of EF - S stands for short focal length. This is of no interest to the user.  And the crop factor is also of no interest to the user.  The camera crops nothing.  It is a full frame in the sense you get what you see in the viewfinder.

  The term arises because of old film camera using 35 mm film.  Someone wanted to know how to compare the two.

  People do not really consider it iphones as crop cameras but they are.  As a Canon Rebel is.  Nobody calls a medium unit format and the camera of enlargement.  But it would be if you used the same logic.  Forget it.

  It is best to think in terms of "point of view" (AOV).  That never changes no matter what device you use.  For example...  Any lens that give a degree 46 AOV is considered to be normal.  It makes no difference what device you use.  This specification is included with each goal.  MM tells you what is the objective.  AOV tells you what it does.

• Need help to repair the lens!

  Hi I am Andy and I just want you ask around about the repair of the lens.

  Recently, my uncle gave me his 17-40mm f4L lens and told me that there is an infection minor fungus in one or some of the elements on the inside. When I checked, there are actually 2 mushroom vein small infection and recently, I just noticed a grain of fungus at the rear of the head element as well.

  With that, my question is how much would it take to repair or clean the lens to get rid of the fungus for preventing further attacks?

  It is not yet possible, but Canon will give you and estimate everything first.  It will probably take completely apart. Fungus is bad news.

• The task manager has started to appear without borders and will not go away, unless the computer is off.

  When using the Ctrl-alt-delete option and the Manager tasks appears it seems without borders.  The task manager remains after the programs are all closed and will not go away, unless the computer is off.

  It's called mode 'small footprint '.  Double-click anywhere on the border of the Task Manager window and you will get the Menu bar in the rear.

• How to fix error Oxc0150002 if I can not open Task Manager?

  Every time I start the computer everthing works fine until I log in to my account. In explorer.exe 0xc0150002 error happens. The only option I get is to end. After that, it goes into a blank screan with just the rear •pare. I have tried to start in safe mode and open using the Task Manager. But it does not open. What should I do now. ?

  Hello

  1 how long have you been faced with this problem?
  2. don't you make changes on the computer before this problem?
  3. What is the accurate and complete error message?

  Complete windows XP repair installation (method 2: repair install of Windows XP by starting your computer from the Windows XP CD) and check.

  Reference:
  How to perform an upgrade on the spot (reinstallation) of Windows XP
  http://support.Microsoft.com/kb/978788

• Xperia Misty z3 camera lens

  I washed my xperia z3 and the front and rear camera lens are now foggy.there are even small droplets of water.please tell me how I can solve this problem.

  In this case, contact your Local support so that the examined device as Jake said.

• Black screen - cannot run Explorer.exe with Task Manager

  Hi guys

  I've been Googling the answer to that for the last day and nothing seemed to work.

  Basically, my portable was working fine until this morning, when I restarted. After the home screen, just a rear screen with the mouse. CTRL ALT DEL and everything still works normally. I can run programs with the Task Manager, but can not run explorer.exe. He returned in the process for about 10 seconds then disappears. I think that it is the cause of the black screen. I tried downloading an own explorer.exe and replace the explorer.exe in C:\Windows\. My computer it did not as he said I need the permission of the administrator, but of course, I am the Admin so I don't know what that's all.
  I tried to restart in Mode safe and that works very well, still, I can't replace the explorer.exe in the C:\Windows\ because I do not have the administrative authorization. I tried to change it in the Security tab of the properties, or impossible.
  I also tried to update the driver software graphics cards, checked the Shell in the registry value and made sure it's explorer.exe, used the difficulty of black of Pevx screen, used HitmanPro and Windows Malicious Software Removal Tool to scan and remove malware. I even did a scf/scannow, checked driver C a mistake (which took 3 hours!), let Windows Startup Repair to fix things, tried a system restore but failed. He says that the anti-virus (Sophos) prevented the restoration of the system, so I've temporarily disabled its access scanning on but still unable to restore to a previous (11/01). Program changes that recent such as listed in the system restore is Google + Auto BackUp who came when set Picasa to date there 3 days and a more recent version of Facebook video call I've ever used. I am now running a scan with Sophos, not too promising.
  So yes, I tried everything. I think that now, there are only three options:

  1 somehow replace the explorer.exe in C:\Windows\ with this new cool explorer.exe, which I downloaded, with the permission of the administrator
  2. try another restore of the system, but I'm sure that nothing will happen, already tried three times.
  3 reinstall Windows 7 Edition Home Premium. It will be a real pain.

  So please help me! I have courses of due on Monday and this portable do not let me what that be done. Thank you!!!

  Please ignore the other my long answer. The problem has now been resolved.

  After trying all kind of scans, drinking and sobbing, I came across TDSS Killer from Kaspersky, who managed to catch a 1 latest unique malicious software (that I was too stupid and really looked hopeless and remember the name of), it cures the problem after reboot. Now, the laptop works well like you wouldn't believe. I'm still confused but way too happy now to care. Thanks a lot for your help nevertheless!

• Lens vs DT AF

  I am considering buying A58 or A65. I have an older lens, Sigma AF, I know they will work, but how do these lens compare the new DT SAM II lens.  As an amateur, will I realize the difference?

  The newly developed Smooth Autofocus Motor (SAM) II provides an instant answer to the control signals for the reader the camera AF. This engine provides the power with finesse and precision. In addition, the SAL-18552 has a tinge of rear lens element newly designed to eliminate internal reflections and reduce flare and ghosting.