White and black, moving line around work plan

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  My Windows 7 desktop icons will be a small box around them, the box is white and has perforated lines.  Not a big deal, all simply boring.  It is usually around the last icon I used.  But sometimes randomly will appear around, most frequently the trash.

  Have you tried to go to customize and change your theme?  Maybe redefine things will help the issue.  You can also try re - install (or looking for a newer version of) your graphics card driver.  You can normally find this by going to the manufacturer of your computer site, click Help, and then by entering your model number.

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• Thunderbird 38 does not work properly: constant 'white and black '.

  After the 38.1.0 update version I have recurring problems with "whites and blacks". When I write a new email to suddenly white or black, I am looking for emails, the email list going in white or black (back after a certain time, or not), sometimes I can't even pass my coursor anywhere on the emails because only then go in part, Yes, white or black. I have already disabled add-ons/plugins, it did not help. is it repairable? If this isn't the case, someone could walk me through the steps to return to the old version 31.7.0 (it was almost fine, with more bearable bugs). My laptop: Lenovo Thinkpad W520.

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  Confirm the driver is up to date.

  Re; I have already disabled add-ons/plugins, it did not help.
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  Tools > Options > advanced > general tab
  or
  Menu icon > Options > Options > advanced > general tab
  Uncheck the "use hardware acceleration when available.
  Click OK

  Restart thunderbird.
  retest for whites and blacks.
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• When I save a PowerPoint document to PDF format, the images become white boxes or have lines around them.

  When I save a PowerPoint document to PDF format, the images become white boxes or have lines around them.  I was using Adobe 9 Pro, just upgraded to Adobe Pro XI and he always does.  I have other people to convert the same file in PDF format and it works fine so I know it isn't the Power Point file, there must be a setting in my Adobe.  Any suggestions?

  Hello

  Could you please update on the operating system you are working on?

  Is - this windows or Mac?

  Also an update on the version of Ms Office installed on your system.

  Do you feel it work with all the PDF' or a specific?

  If you are using windows, try to repair Acrobat once and then see if that solves the problem.

  Also, check the latest updates installed on your computer.

  Launch Acrobat > navigate to help > check for updates.

  Please, try the two steps and see if that fixes the problem.

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• Start an adjustment with the whites and blacks?

  Martin Evening in CS6 for photographers recommend to adjust an image with exposure, contrast, and then fine tune with the shadows and highlights. Explains the use of whites and blacks only if necessary. Julieanne Kost has a pithy video on cab in which she begins by setting the white and black (which dates back to the advice of Bruce Fraser / Real World Photoshop using levels in Photoshop). http://TV.Adobe.com/watch/Photoshop-CS6-featuretour/Adobe-camera-raw-70-in-Photoshop-CS6/

  I know that I can see what works best for an image, etc.. Ask yourself what is the recommended procedure.

  I could write reams about it. Have already done.

  I will however keep this short (for me) and let someone else take a better stab.

  It is wrong to think of controls PV2012 as being something like those of other publishers.

  The bottom line: give the picture adaptations she needs, whatever you start with.

  So perhaps a better question is: How do we know what adjustments needs a photo in PV2012?

  (I warned people against trying to arrive at a single procedure that will work for all photos)

  That's all for now.

  OK, maybe a quicky:

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  WARNING: this "formula" works on 90% of the photos, not 100 percent. Or it could be 0% (or 100%) depending on what you're shooting...

  Okay, I can't resist:

  Most of the pictures can be edited in this way:

  * Most critical exposure setting

  * Use - highlights for container of the upper extremity

  * Use + shadows to normalize the lower end

  * The difference in taste.

  * - black & + white to make full use of the available tonal range.

  But at the other extreme, there are these:

  * Exhibition but still critical,

  * puts in light and shadows of the sliders do not hit the sweet spots: leave at zero.

  * Use - white & + blacks for recovery & fill, respectively.

  * You may very well push contrast, although it is an image too contrasted initially. Or not...

  And then there's a whole series of photos which sit somewhere between the two...

  Confusing? Yes. PV2012 is great, but delicate and requires a completely different way of thinking and a flexible 'procedure'...

  Note: Highlights slider going positive, and cursor shadows going negative also, independently of the highlights slider for a reason. But their use in this way should be reserved for unusual cases of raw or refine already cooked jpegs, or you really know what you are doing and why you...

  One last point is critical: exhibition in PV2012 sets mainly mid-level tones, that is why it is the most critical: highlights, contrast, shadows, all hinges on a suitable exposure setting.

  Black & White adjustment are probably the biggest keys for optimal fit in PV2012, but they are more difficult to nail down, because their adaptation depends strongly on the photo, but maybe a golden rule to be broken:

  * - black & white if possible, for punchy complete histogram photos +...

  * + Black & - White tones tend to gang to the extreme endpoints of the gases, such as highlights & shadows adjustment do not understand... (or you prefer the softer look that can come, or else...).

  WARNING: This is a personal thing, and probably different people different things that work best for them...

  PS - Don't forget the curve of tone & inhabitants after basic setting (can be done over too, but it is not recommended until you have acquired sufficient experience).

  Lr4/PV2012,

  Rob

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  Original title: windows Vista premium edition

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• White and black slider in graduated filter.  In addition, no dehaze.

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• I accidentally hit the wrong command on my key board and now forms are white and black outlines. How can I change the forms to their original colors?

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  How can Illustrator Adobe - I get out of the preview display? -Graphic design change battery

• No grid snap to horizontal and vertical lines when moving objects or work plans

  Hi all

  On illustrator CS5 and later it was a feature... I'm not sure of the name, but I call it smart alignment. Whenever I started to move an object or work plan it would be bright green lines vertical and horizontal to suggest snapping to the part or an element or a plan of work... and Center. It was super useful! But for some reason, I can no longer see these guides. Is it possible to recover? I tried to turn on snap to grid and point, but they are not returned. Thank you!

  Kevin,

  We are talking about view > guides?

  What is displayed depends on the options settings.

  The Smart Guides have been there a lot longer, but initially without options of choice (less then).

• Something white and black coloring

  Hello

  How can I color a brush as the first attachment so that it looks black in the attachment 2?

  

  Thank you!

  https://www.rockymountaintraining.com/Adobe-Photoshop-how-make-a-white-shirt-black/

• White and black clipping

  Please can someone tell me what number would mean that I have at least a pure black pixel and at least a pure white pixel...? I realized that 0.01% does not work... But 1 give the impression that it is left on top... I want to go until I get to cutting, but no more. What number would provide it?

  

  If they are RAW files, then it is better to set black and white points in ACR.  If you Shift open the RAW file converted to open as a smart object, these settings are non-destructive and can be changed.

  Black and white point setting by the numbers in Photoshop is risky, because none of the two images are the same.  You can block the noisy shadows, or ignore the specular and set the white point on a more significant part of the image.  So if you really want to settle these points within Photoshop, a better approach might be to use a levels adjustment layer and hold the key of the Alp (Opt) while dragging the black and white sliders.  This puts the image threshold mode, so you can see exactly which parts of the image are clipped, and channels, or combination of channels are to be cut.

  But using the ACR is a no-brainer.  You have the number of complete image bits to play with to start.

• blue screen and blue moving lines and figures

  Hello

  I was using my laptop this morning and it completely crashed!

  My laptop is about 5 years old, Windows 7, 64-bit AMD processor.

  I tried to put my system has a few days, but that failed. Cannot start computer laptop in safe mode.

  It's no wonder with computers! Can someone help me? See photos for more information.

  

  Is there only a DMP file located @ C:\windows called MEMORY. DMP?  What's the date today?  We can use that one as well if it is ongoing.  Except that there must be a setting that is not correct in the title of the activation of the DMP files or the accident that happens so fast that there is no time to write the DMP file and that generally means that it is a system driver (which is not be verified) or real ram itself.

  If there is no MEMORY. DMP try running Driver Verifier

  These accidents were related to the corruption of memory (probably caused by a driver).

  Run these two tests to check your memory and find which driver is causing the problem.  Launch auditor.  You don't need to run memtest again unless the auditor is not the cause, or you want to.

  If you are overclocking anything reset by default before running these tests.
  In other words STOP! If you don't know what it means that you're probably not  
  
  
  
  
  1-Driver Verifier (for full instructions, see our wiki here)
  
  2-Memtest. (You can learn more about running memtest here)

• Layer Palette list jumping around on DSP with multiple work plans

  Just upgraded to Photoshop CC2015, and I'm doing a work of mobile design - work plans are perfect for this kind of work, so I decided to take advantage of the new functionality of the artboard. Now, a lot of actions that update of content in the palette layers (duplicate elements, for example), force the selected item to be concentrated in the top of the layers palette. This means that my layers are constantly scrolling themselves around and making it physically exhausting to use Photoshop. I'm on a retina screen 27 "(5K iMac)." Not only did I get distracted by the pallet to move, I have to also remember where I was still in the palette (layers are named, but I have 26 work plans, so it's a lot.), then scroll around to get there.

  Also, when I delete the layer, the palette groups of select and focus parent of the deleted group at the top of the list. In this case, let's say I duplicated only accidentally an item (and then removed), then I have to realize I've been teleported elsewhere and find my way back.

  I know the new behavior of items being placed in groups now sitting at the top instead of the bottom of the group - is not that, but maybe a bug related to this new behavior?

  This issue does not appear to occur in PSD who did no work plans.

  Hi Zack,

  There is bug here that is being developed at the present time in development.

  When you choose the command duplicate the layer (or group of two copies) and the layer is a work plan, it is moved to the top of the layer stack and then re-nested in the above work plan that can hold the layer. When nested in a work plan, the layer is placed on top of the stack in the artboard. Most of the time, it seems just the layer gets duplicated upward from the current artboard, but in some cases, as you have discovered, it can actually go to another plan of work.

  Of course, this is problematic.

  The workaround for now is option and drag the layers in the layers palette to explicitly in the order of desired layer stack.

  In addition, there are a number of other behaviors that you describe in this thread that I think can also be problematic, but he'll have to look more carefully. Thanks for the information and please let us know if you see anything that affects your workflow with work plans.

• Blue and black iPhone 4S lines restart?

  Hello, I have an iphone 4S. I have about 3 years. Today, I dropped it and now the screen is frozen. She now has blue and black vertical lines randomly across the screen. I first discovered this when I noticed that my screen wouldn't turn on at first, so I tried to restart button market / stop and the button "home" at the same time, and then my screen lit up, and I saw the lines.

  I tried to see if my phone is placed next to the broken screen - always vibrates when I unsilence it, and when I plugged in the charger, the sound that it makes usually happenned. But the screen is not responding. I want to try to call my own phone, but the spirit that I still live under strict parents, and I want to just tell them if there is no more possible solution.

  I guess I'll most likely ask them to take my iphone at the apple store for repair. But, I want to ask someone who has had a similar problem, have you tried to let the battery fall to zero, then after you reloaded, the lines have disappeared?

  Hello Jann3ll314,

  Thank you for using communities of Apple Support.

  I understand that you see lines of color on the screen of your iPhone.  To isolate a hardware problem or a software problem, please follow the steps below.

  If you see lines, missing sections, discoloration or poor image quality

  1. Try to reboot your device. If you cannot restart, forced to reboot your device.
  2. If this does not work, restore your device.
  3. If you still see the question after the restoration, contact Apple technical support.

  Get help with the screen on your iPhone, iPad or iPod touch

  Take care.

• yellow and black cartridge stopped working - Photosmart 5510

  After replacing the cartridges to test my Photosmart HP 5510 with "nine" HP cartridges cartridges yellow and black are no longer works. I've tried every suggestion I could find on this forum, clean the vents, cleaning of the printheads, realligning, a 'hard' closed, etc.. Nothing seems to work.

  If you have followed all of the solutions provided in this document here. including the replacement of the cartridge as it may be faulty, sought to replace the product.
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  HP Technical Support call case form:
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