Audio - headphones and speakers at the same time playing

My kaptop is an Asus G53sx running windows 7 premium 64-bit. It has a generic realtek built into the sound card with the latest drivers.

Currently, no sound from my speakers if no headset is plugged into the headphone jack. However, audio comes from the speakers and the headphones if headphones are connected. In addition, audio workstation inhibition translates the speakers muted, but the headset remains reactivated.

Things I've tried:

Disable/re-enabling sound devices.

Play with audio devices by default.

Play with sound priority application settings.

Reinstall the drivers.

Uninstalling the drivers, let windows install generic drivers, reinstall the drivers.

Resettlement of former drivers from the manufacturer of the disk.

Using the generic windows drivers.

All these have resulted in the same symptoms; No sound when no helmet, not his from the two devices when Yes headphones.

I see from the description of the model, he has Creative EAX supported sound card and not from Realtek. If you have installed the Realtek drivers, there may be problems of work. Make sure you install the correct driver, reboot the PC and then check.

Tags: Windows

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    1. open Device Manager (found in the Control Panel, or type devmgmt.msc in the search box).
    2. develop the 'audio controllers, video & game' and right click on the Creative Labs Recon pilot.
    3 Select this option to "Update driver software".
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    9. in the update driver warning box, click 'Yes' (the driver).
    10 restart the portable computer if you are prompted. If not invited, so no need to restart.
    [To return to the Recon pilot, do it again but reverse steps 2-7 names].

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    If this signal applies to a drop in the ID pin (4) or in some cases, I saw that she proposed, he runs down with 0 Ohms.

    Dead shorting things always makes me nervous.  If ID is a simple normally high impedance high input, resistance could be used to make voltage well below the low or zero threshold while also preventing the risk of damage when cheat on him with a device that you do not have the diagram for.

    Yet, 100K is a bit high for a 'pull down' in most of the situations that I'm used to.  Even a 10K would be uncertain. A 1 K or 2 K seems reliable enough, but then things are weaker and in know more nowadays low...   All but a dead short but if possible.

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    http://AMZN.com/B00LTHBCNM

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    I forgot to mention that some 'hackers' have claimed success with other tablets to deceive their devices by using a multi-step process to plug things in.  Usually in general they would get connected Tablet and load first, then they would return a switch or something remove some resistance or the signal was introduced by the first position of the switch. For some reason any Tablet would continue to require. Then the data lines would be free and they would plug in a usb key and it mounts correctly even if the tablet was always in charge.

    It's like the power circuit has a lock which does not allow it to return to the mode "power flow" as long as he still feels the power flows inward regardless of what software it is telling.  Full proposal here.

    These tips seem dubious to me.  Changes in the BIOS could change the way it works.  Also you can not be sure what actually happens if you do not have a schematic representation.  You could damage your tablet.  Many people will support icon in the operating system whether the Tablet is in charge.  But I'm sort of a low-risk guy and my policy is generally indicators of intereperet not to have meaning at all once a device is functioning in a non-standard setting.  Especially when it's something that I did not built and could not fix if I FRY.

    Hypothetical reasoning: tell me what data sensory discs really the State of the charging light screen?  This reflect the bit of hardware control programs actually feeding management and status on the port?  Or does it measure the direction of the flow of power, said in the section of the circuit battery monitoring?  Point - none of us have a schema because it's owner. To really be sure according to the smart electronic hardware, the port must be mode flow under advisement "of power. If it's in a "power flow out" mode and power will be delivered externally as well you wind upward with both power supplies the same power at the wheel nets.  In this case, the two opposing regulators attempting both to drive 5 V can have slightly different voltage calibrations.  That could lead to fighting between them, with more than 100% of their capacity.  For example if you try to regulate 4.95 real V and the other and other attempts to regulate 5.05 V.  Current then flows to the tune of 100 mV / a few milliohms in the cables linking the two.  This may be several amperes. (many)  In other words, like I said: you want the tablet to know that power is coming in don't go out and automatically hitting the internal switches needed for that to happen. Probably the icon should indicate this with precision, but in some wacky situation, he could not. There may be a chance that the icon could indicate the load and still be burning or focusing on some circuits of the tablet or the charger.

    Another thing, I could see that happening is if you play with these reported resistance types enough you might find a resistance value that winds up place the device in an intermittent condition.  In other words it keeps flipping back and forth quickly between OTG and fresh.  It can give the illusion that it works.  You can have marginal communication with your USB devices and battery could even load.  But will still be a lot of stress on the power circuit.

    It is difficult for me to risk a Tablet perfectly well if I don't know exactly what I'm doing.

    If a brave individual makes their own experimentation and verifies that it charges and OTGs and you tell the rest of us, you're a hero.

    Maybe one of you has a good knowledge on the USB standard to have more confidence in such an experience... like what the ID pin 4 REALLY supposed to work for example?

    That's what I know so far.  If you think you can help, thanks in advance, or if this helped you, then your quite welcome.

    It works

    http://Accessories.us.Dell.com/SNA/ProductDetail.aspx?c=us & l = to & CS = 19 & SKU = 470-abes & baynote_bnrank = 0 & baynote_irrank = 0 & ~ CK = baynoteSearch & dgc = CJ & cid = 47997 & lid = 4279734 & acd = 10550055-4485850-eb75dcb47e53437680ed323a1f4885fe

    Evidence

    http://targusblog.com/2014/11/25/how-to-turn-a-99-Tablet-into-a-workstation/

    But it's 4 x the price in Europe

    Have fun

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