Camera HS SX50

Similar Questions

• Flashlights

  Hello, please advice me for a flashlight to my camera Canon sx50 hs power?

  Hot shoe of the camera is compatible with all Canon Speedlite flash units currently marketed as well as a number of hot flashes is no longer marketed (e.g. they do not actively sell the Speedlite 580EX II... but it works with it).

  The model number of the flash tells you "Guide number" as the flash in meters.  For example the 270EX II has a "guide number" of 27 meters.  The 430EX II is a "guide number" 43-metre (omit just the last "0" in the model number and that is the "guide number").

  A "guide number" is a scenario of the industry standard benchmark to measure the distance a proper illuiminate can flash a topic.  But as the amount of light collected by the camera depends on your exposure settings, the reference level of ISO 100 and f/1.0 (opening size) is supposed to.  What do you _really_ is divide the distance "guide number" by the (opening) diaphragm of the lens and it is the real distance that flash can handle.

  For example: the Speedlite 430EX II is a 'guide numbrer' 43 meters or approximately 141 feet.  But this is at f/1.  Your camera can't shoot at f/1 (no one does a f/1 lens).

  When your device is fully zoom-in (maximum magnification) lens has a report f / d of f/6.5.  So, you would divide by 6.5 141 feet.  This gives you a distance of just over 21 feet (21.7).  If your camera is fully zoomed-out (wide angle) the report f / d is improving and the f-stop can go as low as f/3.4.  So, you would divide 141 feet by 3.4 and gives you a distance of about 41.5 feet (the distance is better because the diaphragm opening is larger, which means that it can collect more light).

  All this has been for the Speedlite 430EX II.  It is a 320EX and a 270EX II who are both much smaller and more compact... but also less powerful.

  One last thing... when a flash is pointed DIRECTLY at your subject, you get a difficult "flat" lighting.  The object don't throw no shadows, because the flash is close to the lens (so the shadows are all hiding behind your subject where the camera can't really see them.)  Good lighting includes good shadows and also the shadows which have a flexible transition from the edge clear dark rather than a well-defined shadow.  While the detached flash is fantastic, an easy solution for flash on the camera is to "bounce" the flash on the ceiling.  This works if (a) you are on the inside, (b) ceiling is not too high (otherwise, the distance to bounce back is too far and you return very little light) and (c) the ceiling is a pretty neutral white (if the ceiling is painted a different color than the ceiling color is tinged light.)

  The reason why I have noticed this is because when you "bounce" the flash, you get a look more attractive, but the light must go much further than if you point the flash directly on the subject and also not a 100% of the light is reflected... you lose a lot of light.  For this reason, it is RECOMMENDED a flash that is more powerful than you can imagine.

  A 270EX II will work well for bounce IF your topic is not very far away (for example subjects inside in about 10').  If you're at an event... it's a big room, your subject is further... the 270EX II will be strong enough.

  The OTHER time it's GREAT to use a flash is outdoors in full sun.  This may seem strange... but the Sun is SO bright that the shadows it casts are VERY dark.  Shooting a person, for example, gives you an exhibition where the positive side of their face is very bright, and yet, the shadows are very dark.  It's much nicer when the highlight of their young side is only slightly brighter side shadow.  To resolve this problem, using the flash outdoors in full sun as a 'fill' flash.  I prefer lower the power of the flash just a bit... to '-1' setting (you can adjust it in increments of 1/3 of).  It really improves the look of outdoor photos.

  The menu on your SX50 will have an external speedlite section that allows you to adjust the power levels of the speedlite.

  I own a 270EX II, a 430EX, a 580EX II and two 600EX-RT Speedlites.  I use the 270EX II with my body of Powershot G series, but only as a 'fill' outdoor flash or a Flash inner bouncing to illuminate subjects in about 10' away.  For more general use where subjects could be much further, I use the 430 models and more... especially when you use the flash with light-modifiers to soften the appearance of the light.

• Mounted the case for POWERSHOT SX50HS

  Hello

  -What someone has a suggestion for a case for my camera.  Amazon has an Everready case it seems to be described as a product of inner quality. Canon has one on the site of tneir as well.

  Thank you guys!

  Hi, ICUTWO!

  For better quality and performance, we recommend going with a real gun carrying case for your camera.  The case of Soft Deluxe PSC-4100 is tailor-made for the Canon PowerShot SX30 IS, SX40 HS and your camera, the SX50 HS, who share all the very similar form factors.  You can learn more on this subject and order, if you wish, on the link below.

  We hope this helps!

  http://bit.LY/1d3LTBZ

• window of the camera does not transfer images sx50 hs

  Camera software window provided with the SX50 hs on a 10 installed windows system.  I use the same cable that I use on my EOS 1200D but the images don't transfer the SX50 hs but work fine on the EOS 1200D.  So I'm confused or something wrong?

  Thank you

  WendallB

  Hi Wendallb,

  To resolve this problem, you'll want to update the Canon CameraWindow.  You can access program updates by clicking here.

  Once on our site, scroll down to "Drivers and downloads" and make sure that your operating system has been correctly detected. Then click on 'Software' to see the available software updates.

  Search for "CameraWindow DC 8.10.4a for Windows" then click on the [Select] button to its right.  Now click on "How to download and install" for information on installing.

• Trigger voltage for former strobes on the new digital cameras

  Can someone tell me what's the trigger voltage TO a Canon SX50 HS point & shoot, My Sunpack 611

  (4800 OSP) has about 43vdc on contacts at full load, it will be something frying?

  I'm afraid I have no idea what can handle a SX50...

  I know that the older Canon SLR and perhaps the first DSLRs have been noted only for 6 volts. SLR digital current Canon are valued at 250 volts, at least since the period of 40 days, I think. Maybe sooner, but I do not know at what time, Canon has improved the SLR/DSLR line to manage a higher voltage.

  Point n shoot, however, I have no idea and don't know where to find them. You could try emailing support Canon directly. (This forum occasionally sees Canon reps and technicians down, but are mainly Canon users and fans to help each other better possible.)

  There is a Web site that shows the flash firing voltages, but which is absolutely not a complete list or a severe test of those on the list. It lists the Sunpak 611, but shows a later, a trial to have the trigger voltage of 4 volts, then as an older one was much higher at 190 volts. (I assume that you have measured your own with a VOM 611).

  So, I'm not really help a lot. Check Canon support about the features of your camera trigger voltage. If you are always worried about it, you can use something like a Wein SafeSync to protect the camera from the excessive trigger voltage. Or use the flash off camera with a radio trigger (but be aware that radio triggers often have a limit of trigger voltage, too... some I recently watched are evaluated at 24 or 30 volts).

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Need a camera that will take excellent shots of ROOM so I can sell them on eBay. Suggestions?

  Camera shots should show plan big detail on currencies of copper and silver.  In addition, the room must be far enough away from the camera to allow enough light in the room.  Can be a HS done SX510 or a HS SX50?  SX50 to $430 is more that I want to spend.  Help!

  Donnie, here are some examples (and if please exuse the bad lighting and color - balance they were thrown together quickly for demo purposes)

  Here are a couple of sterling pieces to show what is happening with the lens.

  This image was taken with a Canon 5 d IS of III using a Canon EF 100 mm f/2.8 L Macro USM lens.  The target was set to f/8 for this exhibition.

  f/8 would normally provide a decent depth of field... but look what is happening with this image:

  

  Note that the central area of the room on the right focus, but but the front and the rear edge are blurred... and this is at f/8 - keep that in mind.

  I wrapped a piece of tape around the ring on the lens.  I have worn to the front edge of the room closely and used a marker to mark this position.  I've then adjusted to the rear edge of the piece of far and who scored as well.

  Then I took a series of exhibitions of the brand front focus up to the mark of development back tweaking the lens very slightly between each exposure.   A total of 10 exhibitions have been taken.

  I then used the software stack of development (in this case, I used ability to 'Merge photos' of Photoshop) by merging pictures of 10, the result is this picture:

  

  Look closely and you will see the office near foreground and distant background are still unclear, but coins are sharp from front to back.  Actually I need more images.  This can be done very gently tweaking focus between each exosure or using a "rail"focus"(a track - like device that you put on a tripod and then mount the camera on the rail and move it toward the front of the camera, any backward or forward for an amount you can control for macro focus pictures with focus stacking).

  It's a lens 100mm macro on a full body frame (and frankly I could have been much closer with this goal), but with a body of cultures-APS - C frame (as any '' rebels '' or mid-range model) the EF-S 60 mm macro would have provided a very similar angle of view.

  The SX50 HS and SX510 seem to be good in the point minimum distances... so that they are able to achieve the desired results, but regardless of the camera, I suspect you will need to emphasis of stacking for good results (I used Photoshop, but there are many applications that can do including applications that are designed specifically for the update macro photo stacking.)

  These images are reduced for display on the web, but the originals are absolutely sharpness and you can look at every surface texture.

• SX50 HS vs SX60 HS for the video

  I'm trying to decide between the SX50 HS vs SX60 HS.  Filming my children sports, concerts and musicals/parts is a key criterion.

  Can you please tell me what camera takes better video (I read that the SX50 is better?)

  Can you tell me the maximum length of music videos that each camera can take before the video stops?

  Once again, thank you for all the support, which has been extremely useful

• Definition of my HS SX50 to shoot in RAW

  Having decided to try using RAW rather than JPG images, I turned to my user manual to set my Canon SX50 SH to shoot in RAW. According to the instructions from the manual, page 146, my camera seems to be missing some of the options.
  It says to press the func button, followed by JPG set / RAW but I have these options available after the adjustment knob by pressing the func key.
  I have 1) ' shot') 2 3) 4) movie setting size image format
  those are the only choices. According to the manual there should be a lot more in this menu
  Can you help me?

  What shooting mode, you are, RAW is not available in Auto, Movie Digest or mode of the sports scene.

  It is available in P, Tv, Av and M modes

• Canon SX50 HS

  Hi everyone ;-)

  I bought a Canon SX50 HS and were able to take some beautiful pictures of the Moon and Mars last night. I am a complete novice and can not understand how to adjust the aperture or ISO and if one of them is the shutter speed?

  I read magazines on the shooting of the waterfalls with a value of f to f/32, but when I look at my settings it only goes until 8?

  Ideas you would know that I have a day soon to Niagara Falls and here a few good shots - this is why I bought the camera in the first place ;-) Thanks John

  For plans of the waterfall, the most important settings for you would be to use shutter priority, cannon called Tv on the dial for value of time, and the value about 1/4 of a second. Use an ISO of about 100 or 200 and leaving the camera to adjust the aperture. Use a tripod to avoid the camera shake and turn off the Image stabilization when using the tripod. This will give you the silky look on the falls, while keeping the rest of the strong enough photo. I hope that this contributor John answer that question because he has this camera and should have more accurate parameters to use. Whatever it is, you may need to try a bit of tweaking of the shutter speed depending on the light, it's when you picture of the grave, but try and keep the shutter open for a slower if possible value. just try several times until you are satisfied with the results.

  Steve

• aperiture on powershot sx50 hs

  I tried my knowledge from my camera.  I want to be able to control the shutter and aperture on my camera.  I have a very narrow control band now, essentially F4.0 at F8.0.  I'm doing something wrong?  Have I not the wrong camera for what I want to do?  The CHDK kit will correct this?  Is there a way to fix this?  Help, please.

  In fact, I could find a tutorial that helped me get the depth of field with this device.  See MWESTPhotography episode 13.  He explains the opening and how to get the right effect with the SX50.  I really learned a lot on my camera of these lessons.  I know that's not the same thing, some might say as good as some other cameras, but it can be done.  This device seems to meet my needs to get the shot I want to, I just have to learn to use it.

• SX50 HS quid taking pix in Museum. Y at - it a preset icon? Must it be done manually?

  I think buying this camera especially after all the rave reviews and videos about it.

  I need a memory card.

  Any suggestions?

  What is the difference with the speed that is listed on various cards... i. e 400 X 200 X speed vs?

  No problem to get the larger card GB I can't find?

  I realize there are several ways to manipulate the camera, but with the icons of "scene selection", is there one for the museums where the hot flashes are not allowed and the lighting is pretty low?

  No idea how long battery last while shooting?

  I am open to advice and suggestions.

  I don't have a SX50 but I'lll bet that your questions can be answered by downloading and reading the user manual:

  http://www.2cameraguys.com/PDF/Canon-PowerShot-SX50-HS-camera-manual.PDF

• I have a power shot sx 40 & need to know: when the top to magnify a picture how save you it to your camera?

  I have a power shot 40 & I learned how to make a zoom in / maginfy a pic, but I cannot find a way to save the image maginfied.

  Thank you ~.

  Im not sure what you mean, but if you mean when you zoom in on a photo in playback mode, it is a way to save the area zoomed separately from the original photo on the camera.

  To start the Cup select in the playback menu.

  The Zoom lever allows you to resize the image and you can press the dots on the adjustment wheel to move the frame also.

  You can also press the Disp to change orientation.

  When you are finished, press Set and it will ask you to save a new Image, click Ok.

  Press Menu and when your promtped to the new display picture select Yes or no.

  You can consider a book written especially for your SX40. I own the SX50 and bought this book because a large part of it still applies. It is called A Short Course in Canon Powershot HS SX40 photography written by Dennis P. Curtin.

  The procedure I just tell you it came from this book which is clearer than the way I have described mysef

• SX50 macro settings, does not?

  I have a SX50 camera that I bought about four months ago. I'm not knowledgeable about camera, so I hope my question makes sense! I'm wanting to explore closeup photography of flowers, but cannot get the camera to focus for this. I am using the macro on the AUTO adjustment feature, but or by turning the dial or press the 'left' arrow key (macro) brings up the option on the screen. (In fact, in the car, I find that only the turn of button/dial 'top' and the 'real' button/dial turning, works not at all - I have no option of either ISO or a macro.) Is this normal?)

  I would be grateful for any advice.

  LimePickle.

  I recently bought one too but have not put to use again, BUT I tried it. It works in P that I strongly recommend to Auto for what anyone where you do not want total control. Use P, learn Exposure Compensation and Flash Exposure Compensation & you'll be on your way to better pictures. (He did not allow Macro in auto mode).

• Why RAW images from my new Powershot SX50 will not import into LR3?

  Why RAW images from my new Powershot SX50 will not import into LR3?

  Hello
  required minimum lightroom version: 4.3
  camera raw minimum: 7.3

  http://helpx.Adobe.com/Creative-Suite/KB/camera-raw-plug-supported-cameras.html

• Someone knows when PSE10 will be able to edit the RAW of Canon SX50 files?

  It seems strange that none of the cameras from that series is compatible with RAW in PSE10, I wanted to get the SX50, but it would be a real disappointment if I can't use RAW.  All ideas, a buzz about why Adobe is not support the SX50?

  Thank you

  Thank you.