Canon lens EF 28-90mm f/4-5, 6 lll

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• Canon lens EF 70-200mm L F4 USM + 2 X L series extender

  Hi, I have a Canon lens EF 70-200mm L F4 USM. Now, I want to buy an extension of series X L 2. Can someone help me by informing that AF can work with EF 70-200mm L USM F4 + 2 X Extender mounted on 650 d device and how much image quality I have to make compromises for the same thing.

  mithun_pal129 wrote:

  Thank you all for your valuable comments. I forgot to mention that my intension of extender to my EF 70-200mm L F4 USM in a telephoto lens for wildlife / birds. But now that I'm your stay in Abu Dhabi, he is not paid a lot of bird / wild life. This is why I don't want to spend a lot on super telephoto, and personally, I don't want to go to cheap Sigma lens. So I wanted to do objective 70-200mm + 2 Expander x 140-400 mm. As I myself feel 1.4 X extender is pretty good, but it will give me up to 280mm. I know that's not very good lens for bird / wild raise photography. But you want to know still is feasible or if I use 2 x Extender to make the 400mm autofocus lens is required for the wild life or manual focus can still operate at F8. I don't have a lot of experience in the photography of wild life that's why I wanted to know things.

  In a Word... N °

  Of a 2 X teleconverter on a 70-200/4 made for a lens of 140-400/8 "effective." Due to the reduction of light reaching the AF sensors, your camera will turn off autofocus. A stronger 2 X also "costs" more loss of quality of the image due to the deterioration.

  It is possible to tape on some of the electronic contacts on the focal length multiplier, so that the camera does not know it is there and always try to auto focus. However, the autofocus will be much slower and will tend to hunt much more.

  In some situations, you may be able to manually update. However, effective f8 makes for a pretty weak sight, most cameras update automatic modern as you do not have some fo the features allowing the development manual, vintage cameras designed for the manual focus had in the past. Some people change to one-third of frosted glass to add functionality to support manual focus (split finder image, micro diaprisms, for example). However this requires careful work to install the screen and the display of different can affect precision measurement of the camera, especially in the incorrect Spot metering.

  Addition of a lower 1.4 X teleconverter makes your lens in effect 112-280mm f5.6, who will still be updated with auto focus and will be much less loss of image quality, but not as much 'reach. If yours is a goal IS, it can reasonably be handholdable. If it is not a goal IS, you will need to watch your shutter speeds than blur carefully, probably should keep to 1/500 or more quickly to avoid the camera. Or use a tripod, as suggested by ebibgs, or at least a monopod. You also need to limit the autofocus on your camera to the central AF point only, I think.

  ebiggs1 wrote:

  On your camera, the 70-200mm f4 is like a 112-320mm f4.  With a converter 1. 4 x, looking at 448mm f5.6 and th elong end.  + 400 mm should be long enough for you to get photos of some birds.  BTW, use a tripod.

  While it is technically correct, citing the "crop camera lens factor" in this way may not help much, can be confusing.

  The original poster has simply a 70-200mm lens which they are accustomed to using on a crop sensor camera. They would now like to double the range of this lens on their camera. Crop sensor lens incorporating conversation factor is very useful when the user goes from frame of film/full to reframe the camera or vice versa. For someone who has never used a film camera or has not used one for many years and is now completely accustomed to how behaves a lens of focal length on their device to harvest, it is a completely moot point.

  But what he's basically saying that while you can add a 2 X, it is probably not a good idea for several reasons. Auto focus will work or not, with a few tips, won't work only weakly. Manual focus will be difficult. And the picture quality might take too big a hit, combining a 2 X with your goal. .

  I have a 70-200/4 IS, 70-200/2.8 IS ("Mark I"), 1. 4 X II and 2 X Teleconverters II. I also have long telephoto lenses, so rarely need to add these zooms teleconverter. However if necessary I would use 1.4 X on one of them. But even if AF still work on the 70-200/2.8 + 2 X combo, I won't use it because of the amount of loss of image quality (the most recent IS of 70 - 200/2.8 Mark II and 2 X Mark III are supposed to work together better, than my older versions of each).

  I use mostly 2 X on 300/2.8 and 500/4 lenses privileged where the image quality is still good. (Note: Yes, on some of my cameras 2 X 500/4 causes AF to stop working, as it would on your f4 lens, so I only use the combo on a limited basis.)

  mithun_pal129... I would say the more you get a 1. 4 X and use it with your goal. See if the image quality is to your expectations. Then work to get closer to your subjects. Or bring them closer to you. Practice the techniques of stalking and to study the behaviors of your subjects to discover ways to get closer. Work in a blind and use bait (food, calls). And start saving for a lens of longer focal length.

  The Canon 1.4 X II and III teleconverters are excellent. All Canon teleconverters have mated before elements that limit the lenses that they physically can be attached, but the 70-200 are among those where this is possible. Teleconverter Kenko is another that I see quite often recommended. They have two different levels of quality: a more expensive "Pro 300" version and a cheaper "MC - 4". These are currently offered in versions "DGX" whose operation is very similar to Canon teleconverters. Old Kenko teleconverters "DG" not "reported" to the camera, the camera didn't know they were there, so try to focus.  In the view of users and tests I've seen, the current Kenko Pro 300 DGX is pretty good overall of the entire image area. The MC - 4 cheaper is actually a little sharper in the Center, but not as strong in the corners and the edges of the image. Tamron and Sigma teleconverters also do, but I have little experience or knowledge of the current versions of the people.

  The wildlife/bird photography is not easy. Since no matter how long a goal that you have, there are times when the subjects are just out of reach and all you can go is to sit back and enjoy the show.

  These photos of small subjects with different, but close to or less than the effective focal length even lenses like your 70-200 mm + a 1. 4 X teleconverter would be on your camera...

  

  

  

  

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Info sought for lens marked ' CANON LENS EF 50 mm 1: 1.8.

  I'm new to the Canon. The camera is 40 d. Have a 18-135mm lens. Bought EF 50 mm 1: 1.8 lens used. Very good condition. I'm trying to find info on this goal.

  As to this subject?

  There were several versions of this goal. Here are the standard Cannon for more stuff later:

  https://www.USA.Canon.com/Internet/portal/us/home/products/details/lenses/EF/standard-medium-telepho...

  Here is an article that goes into history:

  http://www.kenrockwell.com/Canon/lenses/50mm-F18-stm.htm

  http://www.kenrockwell.com/Canon/lenses/50mm-F18.htm

  http://www.kenrockwell.com/Canon/lenses/50mm-F18-EF.htm

  So it depends on how old your is. The optics are all pretty much the same, they vary mainly in development and the lens mount.

• G7X Canon Lens correction

  Is a correction of the lens available for Canon Powershot G7X?

  I don't think not lightroom started showing the message regarding the integrated purpose of correction until lightroom profiles 6, even if they are applied automatically in lightroom 5.7.1

  Acr plugin for photoshop began to show the message before sister did versions of lightroom.

  Just to be sure, you could ask for more in Lighroom forum:

  Photoshop Lightroom

• Why canon 100-400mm fucos not good lens

  Why objective canon 100-400 f/4.5-5.6l usm fucos not well when I take wild birds, the lens just in and out when I fucos with the subject and take a picture, I try a lot of adjustment, but the problem still not solved, the lens is used from adorama tv, the camera is canon70d up, my other two canon lens works very well with my camera Thanks for any help.

  Some of the parameters that could shake your shots are:

  • Number of AF Points - manually by selecting just the central point is simpler to draw
  • Shooting mode - "One Shot" mode is easier to use for most of the scenarios.
  • Focus lens mode - your lens must have settings to adjust the focus of the distance to the subject.
  • Image stabilization - your lens must have parameters to refine the IS.

  One or all of these settings may affect the focus in your images.  What settings are you using?  How far is your subjecgt?  What focal length you are trying to use?  You use a tripod, or handheld?  What are your exposure settings?

• I would like to replace a with an equivalent Canon Sigma lens.

  The lens is a Sigma 70-300mm 1:4-5. 6 DG with macro.  Which Canon lens would come close? The body is a T3i Rebal EOS.

  Thank you

  If you are serious about on the side of the fauna of it think the Canon 100-400 L IS lens, or even the Sigma 50-500 OS (kinda big & heavy for hand holding a large part) and read existing threads on the 100-400 & the 400 f5.6. It is a much better scope for wildlife that only 300 mm. You should also consider a good Macro lens for near work place that is not something I do, I'll let the others he made recommendations.

• Fixed the LR4 goal. When will add canon 10-18mm lens

  I recently bought a 10 to 18mm canon lens. But when I tried to use the lens correction facilities that I discovered that he was not on the drop-down list of the lenses.

  You know a date where it will be added?

  I have a similar version of Windows I can give you specific instructions.  This is how to copy the profile of lenses for the location of Adobe PS 10-18 for the location of the users so an older LR can display it.

  Download and install the DNG Converter 8.7 from: http://www.adobe.com/downloads/updates/ this will put the new profiles to a known location.

  Find the profile that you want to copy under C:\ProgramData\Adobe\CameraRaw\LensProfiles\1.0\Canon and do a right click copy

  I think the file you want is: Canon EOS 50 d (Canon EF-S 10-18 mm F4. 5 - 5.6 IS STM) - RAW.lcp

  Navigate to the location of the users profile: C:\Users\Steve\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\LensProfiles\1.0\Downloaded

  You may need to create some of the path to the folder, but down through Roaming must exist.  The AppData folder is hidden, so you may have to type in the Solution Explorer and press ENTER to go down into it, or type %appdata%\microsoft\windows\sendto in an address bar of Explorer and press enter and you should be down in the roaming folder.

  Once you're in the downloaded folder (that you create) make a paste to copy the profile on him, and you're done, once you have restarted LR if you go see the new profile.

• I need help with a purchase of Canon EF/EF-S lens...

  Hi all...

  I don't know where else to post this question since this isn't really a photography forum but rather a forum Lr4.  But I'm still very new to DSLRs and need help.

  I currently have a Canon T3 w / 18-55 Kit lens.  I would like to take pictures of landscapes, mountains and waterfalls, etc...  At the same time I need the ability to take pictures up or about 6 "of objects.  All the different numbers on lenses are confused the heck out of me and I was wondering if there was any advice - could someone give me a good Canon lens or two that will get me where I want to be.  I want to take close-ups and shots of distant/large.  Lenses certainly are not cheap, so I want to make the right decision.

  I recently bought a book by David Busch on the T3 and its capabilities, but I still have a way to go before finishing the book.

  Can anyone offer some advice or an overview of the importance of using the right lens or even a recommendation of a Canon lens?

  Thank you!

  To see 'detail' of small objects like flowers, you have to shoot a lot closer (less than inches) for higher magnification. I have the same 18-55mm IS lens kit you have and checked the maximum possible magnification, which is with the longest value of 55mm zoom. I was able to focus down to a 1.5 "x 2.25" image size, which is about .63x magnification for full frame 35 mm 24 x 36 mm (95 "x 1.4"). Canon EF 50mm F2.5 on your T3 a one.5 x 1.6 = magnification of .8x, so you are pretty close to this already with the ability of the 18-55 mm. The main difference is that the EF 50 mm macro lens is designed to achieve a superior at close distances sharpness and produce images of superior quality of small objects like flowers. That said, that you can be very happy with the results of your 18-55mm, once you get the hang of using it for macro work.

  Regardless of the lens used the biggest difficulty with macro photography is framing, focus on your subject and keeping the camera "yet". Even slight movement will cause the focus to distances of these relatives, because of the very shallow depth of field (i.e. terms of sharpness). Here are a few things you can do that will help:

  (1) a tripod to help you compose the object in your picture.

  (2) set the mode "Av" and F stop of at least 8. You can go as high as F16 to increase depth of field. This will cause the camera to use a very slow shutter speed, which also requires the use of a tripod. In a pinch, you can use your Canon T3 up to ISO 3200 with some post processing in Lightroom noise reduction to shoot 'at hand '.  Use nag screen image from the camera to the full magnification setting to check the sharpness ' in the field '.

  (3) set your lens to manual focus (M) and use the ' Live view ' on your T3 with the x 10 magnification setting (read the manual of your T3).

  (4) focus on the Central "area of interest." You can use "Depth of field Preview button" of your T3 to get an idea of what is inside the "depth of field".

  And remember that Lightroom can do wonders on cleaning and improvement 'less than pefect' images to give them a stellar appearance! Happy shooting and LRing!

• Need advice on the protection filter and lens hood

  I'm looking into buying a UV filter to protect my 18-135mm IS USM lens. Is the B + W 67mm UV Haze MRC 010 M filter a good filter to use if I want to keep the filter on all the time? A standard lens cap would be in addition to that?

  The lens hood Canon EW - 73 is a good visor to use on top of the 18-135 mm Canon lens

  shorty1 wrote:

  I'm looking into buying a UV filter to protect my 18-135mm IS USM lens. Is the B + W 67mm UV Haze MRC 010 M filter a good filter to use if I want to keep the filter on all the time? A standard lens cap would be in addition to that?

  The lens hood Canon EW - 73 is a good visor to use on top of the 18-135 mm Canon lens

  B + W filters are excellent but expensive.

  More in this forum would probably have a filter of protection needs, particularly if you use a lens hood. I think I fall into this category, although I tried once to nibble while covering an event that was a table buffet and stuck the tip of my goal in a dish of cream sure dip.

  There is no such thing as a cap gun good or bad for one of their lenses, just a good or bad. Always use the one they recommend, or it may interfere with the field of vision. Lens hoods are generally very tolerances in this regard. If you are using a 3 rd-party hood, be sure that it is an exact replacement for the condom correct Canon.

• data, lens

  How can I find out the date of when a lens has been made?

  http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-lenses/Canon-lens-aging.aspx

  http://canontweets.com/2012/06/Canon-lens-date-codes-how-old-is-your-Canon-lens/

• Canon EOS Rebel T3i

  So I think I'm almost about made the decision to buy a T3i (body only) rather than a T5i because I want a good quality lens. Most of the photos I take are pictures of landscape. Nature, sometimes sports and some portraits. What I need help on is what lens would be perfect for me to buy?
  I want to get the 24-70 L, but it's a little too expensive for me. I prefer something less than $1000

  For exactly what you have stated in your query, the 24-105mm f4 L is the goal for you, this is the best purchase for the money, Canon lens has.  If you can find a white box version, you can get it for $650 - $ 750.  An it's a model 'L '.

  If there is no version white box, which are identical with the same exact guarantee of Canon, the lens sells in the

  range of $1100-1150 $.

  It will be not too wide for your landscapes and not long enough for your sports, but it is the best compromise for both.

  It will be ideal for portraits and general use. It's fast enough to f4 and very stable.

  Of course no one lens will do everything "better."

  Avoid the off-brand lenses cheap.

• Lens EF - s 55-250 is lens

  Is the Vivitar hd 2.5 x telephoto lens compatible with the canon lens. I can't get focus (af or mf) if the canon lens is zoomed beyond 130 mm.

  No, it is not compatible.

  This Vivitar lens is really designed to be used with shorter lenses to give you a telephoto view. If you add it to a telephoto lens like the 55-250 and then zoom to 250mm, you will have poor results or no results at all.

• Canon produce to compete with the Sigma 150-500mm zoom and will soon be released 150-600mm Tamron

  When will be complete with Sigma 150-500mm ($899 B & H), 150-600mm ($ 1 060) B & H Tamron, Canon 100-400 L is obsolete compared to these new lenses, $600 more expensive and is not the beach with my 7 d

  Thanks I agree on the quality of L lenses I use 24-105mm for over a year now and I love it, the difference in cost, I can see with the way Canon lens are buiilt and I can deal with it if a new goal comes in the price range of 100-400.

  I heard a rumors of rep Cannon 100-400 could be updated this year, but nothing confirmed, I was hoping that they would extend up to 500mm maybe so I'll wait to see what comes out if anything this year

  Jim

• Lenses for vixia hf r72

  Hello! I just had a Vixia HF R72 and was looking for a 24 mm lens. I have searched but found none recommend directly from Canon. I have found, however, a deal on Amazon but read they are not really very good. Is there a Canon lens that I could buy to improve my Vixia or it is not necessary or recommended due to its very good characteristics. TIA

  I looked in order to give you an answer but have found nothing useful other than what you found on Amazon.  The lenses to Add on two, I found on the website of Canon were not compatible with your camcorder.  I have lenses module my camcorders (older models) of another brand, but have found that I rarely use them.  Of those I have the lens wide angle is the one that I used the most.  I have not found a 24mm lens module.  Those I've seen ranging from 0.43 - 0.45 x.  24 mm is more like a lens for a DSLR or a high range with interchangeable lens camcorder.

• You are looking for information, I hope you help me!

  So I have a blog specialized photograph of Georgian language teaching... I'll talk about in my next post on the characteristics of the lens, mounts and etc.

  Found something like that for Nikon: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_F-mount#Pre-autofocus

  a list of features, which I'll translate in the Georgian language, so I'm looking something similar for Canon, I don't want to disappoint users of Canon... I searched but couldn't find what I wanted, maybe you guys can help me?

  I'm sure I found a Wiki page on it, but it's similar.

  http://www.wildlife-pictures-online.com/Canon-lens-glossary.html