Circular polarizing artifacts

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• My circular polarizing filter does not appear to be a very broad spectrum of change?

  Circular polarizing filters come in different strengths, or ranges of change?  Are all the filters polarizing C the same thing?  Yes, I know how to use them. I know that the angle of 90 degrees to the Sun and all that... I think I should be able to rotate the filter and see through the lens excactly what the change will be... frankly, I find it very difficult to see the amount of change in the blue of the sky with the filter I have... shouldn't you be able to turn the filter and observe the gradations of change?  Should not be obvious as in a ND filter?  Should I apply a filter, polarizing "stronger"?

  Polarizers can have different strengths.  Technically they should all be similar, because theoretcially they should eliminate all waves perpendicular to the axis.  But this is theoretical, and polarizers cheap may not be effective.  What brand?

  It is unlikely, it is a complete fake, but I wouldn't be completely surprised if you bought a cheapo somewhere.  I've seen a lot of sunglasses polarized are not.

  One thing: technically, it's not 90 degrees to the Sun, it's 90 degrees to a reflective surface.  The thinking was to polarize, which allows the polarizer to block.  The effect on the blue sky may vary, depending on how many reflection (haze) it is in the sky.  The best way to make sure it works is to look at the sunlight reflecting off something, like a shiny object.

• Which camera to photograph the paintings and then print postcards and greeting cards?

  I currently have a PowerShot SD600, but maybe I need a new camera for my purpose.  Those who would work for my application?

  I paint with acrylics and the pintings out for between 1 ' x 2 ' and 4 ' x 4 '.  I want to take pictures of them in order to have a professional printer to create postcards and greeting cards to sell in museums.  The printer indicates that it will use a 1200 dpi printer.  I really want the absolute best cards and the image that I can get.

  Should what resolution I take photos, how can I be sure that I take photos in the correct resolution (or is it adjustable after the fact), and that carmeras would work for this?  I have Adobe PhotoShop if it has no effect.

  I would like to use the camera for this purpose for about 6 images per year.

  I also sell houses and could use the camera for pictures of the housing list.

  With regard to the price I'm willing to spend up to $600, if necessary.

  Thank you.

  If I were to try to do this on a budget...

  The camera LENS is more important that the body... then I would seek to lenses.  For this type of work, a macro lens will work better because they detail more high resolution capacity (even when you are not using them for close-up photography).

  The camera BODY is less important.  Your work is not in motion when she is photographed (it is not the sports photography or action) and this means that the features that are ideal for sports are not important for what you want to do.  You don't have to worry about performance in ISO or noise because you get control lighting (and you need control lighting.)

  An image will be generally well look at 300 dpi or more (even a little less than 300 dpi will look still good enough).  It will not look as good in 150dpi and some laboratories refuses to print anything less than 100 dpi (even if you insist) because they believe you hate and requests a refund (even if you insisted that they print it at such a low DPI).

  If your postcards are a size 4 x 6 "then a 18 megapixel print to 864 dpi (which would look fantastic).   Even a 5 x 7 would look great.  A size of 8 x 10 "would receive up to 432 dpi (which is always very well).

  If it's only 6 photos per year and you would shoot them the same day AND you don't think you would use the camera gear for anything else THEN... either (1) strongly consider hiring a person for the job, or (2) consider RENTING the equipment if you can't find anyone to do it (just be warned that it will be tricky).   You can rent equipment from places like LensRentals.com or BorrowLenses.com (and probably others I don't know about.)

  Camera

  Being budget minded, I would shoot it with a Canon T5 (18 megapixels - about $400 although if you get a refurbished unit you can get it for less).  "Renovated" is about $200, but I see the store gun shows them as not in stock right now.  You can also use a Canon SL1 (very slightly more expensive than a T5 but if you get a renovated body is $279)

  Goal

  A Macro USM Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 lens.  It's the power of resolution in detail above in point lowest price available in the line-up.  All other macro lenses are more expensive.  It is $ 419 at most merchants of Canon, but I see you can get a refurbished copy directly from the Canon store at $319 (and it's in stock):

  http://shop.USA.Canon.com/shop/en/catalog/EF-s-60mm-f-28-macro-USM-refurbished

  Tripod

  You will also need a tripod.  For light work as a T5 and a 60 mm macro lens, a tripod Manfrotto 190 series would be ideal, but Manfrotto is a reputable tripods, so they will not be the thing cheaper than you can find (but they are quality).  You will be able to find budget from companies like Slik tripods (not nearly as Manfrotto but it will be cheap.)  I'm not advocating normally buy tripods 'cheap' because they break a lot and now that you buy a tripod to replace the broken tripod you bought to replace the tripod broke before this one... and at the point where to add it you could have come by purchasing the quality tripod from the start.  Most of photo equipment is sustainable and does not need to receive the "white glove" treatment during the manipulation it - they can take a bit of a transition to tobacco and are proud to show their scars from the battle.  But if you buy a tripod at low prices... they do not so good shots... Be gentle.

  Cable tie

  I would also get a long camera USB modem cable (the cable that comes with the habit of the camera is particularly long) and allows you to set up a laptop computer connected to your camera so that while your camera is pointing to your paint, you can set the lights while watching your computer screen.  Search Amazon for "Attached USB Cable" and you'll see a lot of cables 15' that work.  It must be 'USB type A mâle' at one end of the cable (it is the most common USB plug) and ' Male USB Mini-B ' on the other end.  You'll notice brand cable 'Home tools' (about $37) and you'll probably also see the brand "Monoprice" (about $7).  Guess who I bought?  Yes indeed that cable $7 works just as well as the cable $ 37 (it's simply not painted "hunter orange").

  A Safety Board: attach a camera, it is possible that someone (you, perhaps) could tripod on the cable modem service, shoot it is hard and damage to the USB port on the side of the camera.  .... I use some Ribbon adhesive (adhesive tape is similar by the dint of... duct tape but duct tape leaves a VERY messy residue when you take it off and the tape adhesive comes off clean and does not leave a sticky, sticky mess, icky.)   Plug one end of the cable to the camera, give yourself at least a foot or two of slack and the cable on the tripod of bands so that if someone goes off on this issue, he's going to shoot the tripod instead of the device.

  Lighting

  Normally, it takes thinking of everything that has any amount of "shine" to it as if you are shooting in mirror.  If flash would be visible to you while looking into this mirror, then it has reflection will appear in your picture.  For this reason lighting is normally left to the sides (and I said 'Coast' (in the plural) because you will need more than one.)  If the flash is disabled on ONE side, while coast will get a stronger than the other side light and will cause lit image.  You'll therefore need to balance the lighting have lights on both sides.

  These fires are not necessarily photographic flashes (who would get expensive), but you probably don't want to use the daylight balanced lights.

  Bob has already pointed out the tricky part... most of the paintings are flat on the surface (oils, watercolours) so as long as the light is off on the side, you will see no reflections.  But acrylic have texture and you think that this 'texture' (since dired painting is brilliant) is little micro-miroirs to all sorts of crazy angles.

  I have never tried acrylic of photography, but my father was a painter and I'm familiar with the behavior of the paint and can well imagine the problems this will create trying to photograph.

  Circular polarizing filter

  If the light source from an angle (closed on the sides), then usually a polarizing filter can reduce this light reflections.  The EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro lens has a diameter of 52 mm front filter threads.  This means that you may need to purchase a "Circular Polarizer" filter in diameter size 52mm to deal with Reflection.

  You can find inexpensive circular polarizers, but these are sometimes of very poor quality and create alterations in wobbly color.  Large filters thread names are B + W the Hoya "PRO1" brand series filters (budget fact Hoya filters too - line PRO1 which are good filters Hoya).

  Rental

  BTW... If you want to go nuts with the resolution of the camera and you plan to RENT equipment rather than buy it... my camera recommendation would be to move to a Canon 5 d and a Canon EF 100 mm f/2.8 L IS USM Macro lens.  The 5 d is a 50 megapixel sensor resolution 8688 x 5792 pixels.  A 4 x 6 "print 1448 dpi format (well over 1200 dpi of resolution of your printer).  Format 5 x 7 ", it is still 1241 dpi.  A 5 d is not cheap (it's a $3,600 for the body 'only' camera).  So, I would not buy one to shoot 6 images per year... but I sure would rent one for work.

• Display and stereoscopic 3d workflow

  I got the task to develop a 3D stereoscopic project, I did it in the past with googles, but must now play in an environment of Professional salon with an HDTV / 3d capable. I have the luxury to spec on the monitor and playback DVD/Bluray. In the past, I used field-sequential DVDs, and I'd be happy if I trusted that a modern HDTV/Bluray combo would play it back as planned. In my current research, creating 3D Blurays would be prohibitive. I currently own the Adobe CS5 Master Collection.

  My question would be: someone had experience with DVD sequential on the flat modern material (I know it works with older CRTs) on the ground? If positive result, no clue on the brand/models of the different components.

  My hope is to have stereo shutter glasses and not glasses Anaglyph color at the salon.

  In the worst cases, I could spec on a PC/laptop to the show - but a BluRay/DVD player would be ideal for reasons of space and ease of use.

  Thanks in advance for clues.

  My experience has been with side-by-side on BluRay and that seems to work fine, even if you lose a horizontal resolution compared to the sequential framework. I burned BD - r discs, but if you do not have a BD burner and your content is fairly short, you can burn BluRay to DVD discs using a standard DVD burner. I use toast to burn.

  Shutter glasses are kind expensive for use at a tradeshow - they tend to walk. I'd go with circularly polarized lenses cheap cardboard and monitor JVC GD - 463D10 myself. I tested my records on TVs much cheaper Samsung with shutter glasses, so it's another way to go.

  It's all experience I can offer.

  Bob Currier

  Synthesis

• With an average of values table in a 2D space circular

  I'm trying to average the temperature values in a table 2D, in rectangular coordinates, on a circular area.  Is there a sub-table function that works in polar coordinates, that I could use?  Any suggestion would be appreciated.

  
  

• polarizers... linear vs. circular

  Just trying to sort out the differences... and decide what is best for me.

  .. tips are another fire at the crossroads... you will still need to make the choice... its just easier to see how you might prefer.

  A "circular" polarizer is simply a linear polarizer which has a blade quarter-wave on the back of it.  This means that only the light corresponding to the direction polarized lens can get through... but once it passes through you may think it is getting a slight "twist".  Without this fix quarter-wave, the polarizer would make it difficult for the two autofocus sensors as well as for the built-in light meter.

  That is why virtually all devices with integrated metering and autofocus need a polarizer "circular".

  You can use a polarizer 'linear' (sometimes called a polarizer 'top') on manual focus cameras that have not integrated as a film camera more old.

  You can even create a polarizing variable by stacking a linear polarizer in front of a polarizer circular.

• rMBP mid-2014 15 "screen GPU artifacts

  Hello

  I currently have my rMBP mid-2014 15 "for over 2 years and I start noticing screen artifacts arise.

  Any program iam at or it load is turned on. Every now and then a line/zone flashes black or scratched.

  What could this be? The laptop has never been dropped or anything?

  Im running 10.11.6

  Kind regards

  It could be a GPU question

  You can run ADH and or else contact the Apple Store about their research in it.

  Using Apple Hardware Test - Apple Support

• Black artifacts when resizing browser window

  The latest update of Firefox (39) Watch black artifacts on the toolbar and when window resizing the browser window. They disappear when I resize the window or scroll.

  The uploader of the image on this page doesn't seem to work, gets stuck on uploading... so here's the link to the image https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9GV3PS3m5ioQjhjZGRuX0w4czQ

  • Hardware Acceleration (disabled)
  • I did a clean install and restored my previous profile (number still present)

  Since the zoom, which forces a repaint, corrects the display at least temporarily, you can try to disable OMTC, a feature introduced in Firefox 33. Here's how:

  (1) in a new tab, type or paste Subject: config in the address bar and press ENTER. Click on the button promising to be careful.

  (2) in the search above the list box, type or paste the layers and make a pause so that the list is filtered

  (3) double-click the preference layers.offmainthreadcomposition.enabled to true to false

  Any difference?

  Note: I read in a bug report at the time that this change causes problems with the YouTube HTML5 player, if hardware acceleration is disabled, then you may also force the Flash on YouTube if you keep this setting. You can use an add-on for this: https://addons.mozilla.org/firefox/addon/youtube-flash-video-player/

• Artifact of edge frame when exporting 360

  After exporting a Final Cut Pro (10.2.3) 360 video, I noticed a stitching artifact appear where frames of sewing to 360 ° / 0 °. It is originally a black line pixel 1-2 Grand Voyager longitudinally from one pole to the other, which is only visible when the video is played on an HMD in a RV such as GoPro Player player.

  To test the question, the same video has been converted using iFFMpeg and this is flawless, leading me to believe it's a bug with QuickTime, because the compressor and the FCP expose exactly the same result after transcoding.

  Is murder pixels QuickTime?

  Not a QT question, but a problem with the plugin Dashwood.  I would like to contact Dashwood.

  BTW, FCPX and compressor and Motion all work on the AVFoundation now, not QT.  QT is relegated to the reading of our days.  Finally, it will disappear.

• Connectivity of polar issues H7

  I use a polar H7 Bluetooth monitor during my workouts. I have a problem when the watch is always the H7, but sometimes do not connect, especially in the gym. It connects very well at home or out of the gym. Can anyone help this is very frustrating.

  Something to the gym is interfering with the connection you need to know what it is. Until it resets your watch by holding down the digital Crown and the side button, wait for the Apple logo, release the buttons. After doing this you can forget your previous matching with the H7 and pair it again.

• SmartWatch. c the polar watch

  I'm trying to decide between buying a smartwatch or a Polar watch to track my fitness, heart rate, etc... Any thoughts?

  The smart watch is that you consider the Apple Watch? If this isn't the case, it is perhaps not the place for the question.

  In my opinion, the Apple Watch fine for basic fitness and then some. However, if you are training for a race where the precise rhythm and time are critical, you can consider a dedicated watch with built-in GPS.

  See dcrainmaker.com for customers of lots of fitness gadgets. Many fitness watches have features of type Smart Watch (e.g. text and call notifications).

• I need the circular activity icon that allows you to be in the classic toolbar.

  Hi, I, m the need for points circular icon that notifies you that an activity is underway. Please let me know if I can get it back. Thank you very much.

  You want the back throbber. In my view, that it has been deleted. You can get a replacement of:

  • https://addons.Mozilla.org/en-us/Firefox/addon/throbber-restored/

• I have a problem, see the screen of my iPhone when you're wearing Polarized Sunglasses. Someone else?

  Someone else just to see their iPhone 6 or Air when you wear Polarized Sunglasses?  My screen seems to low intensity upright, I wear Polarized Sunglasses of Rx a lot.  S in Arizona.

  I had this problem with a screen of the device.  It is the effect of polarization lenses.  The only way for the clear screen had to take off the sunglasses - helping you if they are your Rx lenses.  I think you need to stick to the horizontal scenes to avoid the effect.

• When I mouse over a tab active, a circular symbol "block" appears and I can't close the tab or by clicking on

  When I'm in FireFox and I smile any area that normally would allow me to perform an operation, select a tab, close a tab or fill out the text in this area of details, a circular 'block' symbol appears and keeps me enter or do whatever it is. I scanned all the programs installed in the control panel and removed something suspicious and reviewed addons and other in FireFox, all anything will do. BTW, this problem does NOT occur in Google Chrome, but I prefer FireFox. Help!

  Note that your system details list shows several Flash plugins.

  1. Shockwave Flash 11.9 r900
  2. Shockwave Flash 11.8 r800

  You can find the installation path of the plugins on the topic: plugins page.

  You can view the Flash player for several plugins Flash player installation folder and delete all (older) versions of the plugin (NPSWF32) and (re) install the latest Flash Player.

  • (32-bit Windows) C:\Windows\System32\Macromed\Flash\
  • (Windows 64 bit) C:\Windows\SysWOW64\Macromed\Flash\

• Multiplication of cross-checking (circular convolution)

  Hello

  To make the circular convolution of vectors, I would like to make:

  FFT-> multiplication cross-check (W = u * V in MATLAB)-> IFFT

  for example [1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0] with himself-> [1 2 3 4 3 2 1 0]

  Is there an easy way to do this multiplication on the 50g, or a cross-check order direct cconv?

  Thanks in advance

  Hi, yYou can use the same commands with the 50G

  FFT

  IFFT

  For cross-checking multiplication on the 50g, try HADAMARD / / shift MATRICES OPER NXT HADAM

  RPL mode

  [1 2 3] [4-5-6] HADAMARD

  [4-10-18]

  In rpl:

  [ ... ]

  [ ... ]

  FFT

  HADAMARD

  IFFT