EOS Rebel SL1 Mode Dial problems

Similar Questions

• Former 1990 EF lenses are compatible with the new EOS Rebel SL1 body

  Recently, I discovered my film camera EOS 650 purchased circa 1990 with 3 EF lenses (50 mm, 35-105 mm, 100-300 mm), in perfect condition. These old lenses would be incompatible with a new EOS Rebel SL1 body?

  Thanks also to ebiggs.

• The lens Canon Macro 60 mm f2.8 fits my Canon EOS Rebel SL1?

  The lens Canon Macro 60 mm f2.8 work on my Canon EOS Rebel SL1?

  Yes.  It's a lens EF - S (EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens)

  The SL1 Rebel can use almost any lens Canon EOS... regardless of EF-S vs EF.  He can even use the TS-E and MP-E lenses.

  Lenses which does not take your camera are the "EF - M" lenses (there are two of them at last I checked).  Those who are made to the 'mirrorless' body of Canon, which is not sold in North America.

• I am trying to open raw photos and it does not work I have 6 suites and photos taken on a Canon EOS Rebel SL1 creative

  I am trying to open raw photos and it does not work I have 6 suites and photos taken on a Canon EOS Rebel SL1 creative

  Hi irod,.

  Greetings.

  • Latest version of camera raw for CS 6 is 9.1
  • Check now if your camera is to 9.1 or higher
    • Devices supported by Adobe Camera Raw
  • If requires 9.2 or later, then you should switch to PS CC or use the dng converter
  • But if it is support less 9.1 then use this link to install camera aw 9.1 and then try to open pictures
    • Plugin Raw camera setup
  • If still you have questions then please paste a screenshot of the issue in more detail.

  Concerning

  Rohit

• I have a canon eos rebel sl1/100 d. I can't take a picture.

  I can't take a picture. The battery works, the memory card has been reformatted. I had the unit about 6 months. I took a lot of pictures on vacation this summer. I uploaded these photos. I started taking pictures, and I can't get a picture.

  If the unit is in 'One Shot' factory default mode, so should not be a picture unless it can confirm that it was able to lock the focus on a subject.  No accent... no picture.

  If, however, you reverse this little switch on the side of your lens that says "AF/MF" on the "MF" position (it is 'Manual' and AF is "Update automatically") THEN you get an exception... "MF" position, the device is ready to take a picture no matter if she thinks that the image is sharp or not... He doesn't care.  Touch that little switch to "MF" you said on camera that YOU will take care of the update and it is not not to consider the development at all.

  If the camera will take a picture (even if it is blurry) when the lens is in a position to "MF", this means the reason why he was not taking a picture before is because of his inability to focus.

  There may be a few reasons why a camera could not focus.

  (1) not enough light: to test this situation... just go to a place where there are a lot of light.  ... Outside in the middle of the day.

  (2) a problem with one of the systems of development.  It turns out that your camera has in fact two systems different focus (completely independent).  One is used when you are looking through the viewfinder to compose the picture.  The other is used if you use the live view screen to compose view.  The reason why there are two different systems is because your camera has a mirror inside.  When you look through the viewfinder, you are actually looking through the lens.  To do this, they need to put a mirror between the lens and the sensor, so you can browse through the same lens that camera is to use.  But which reflect the light to reach the sensor blocks.  So they actually have a system of development that does not use the sensor and can focus when the mirror is in the way that (the mirror of the part of the light bounces actually in focus sensors).  When the mirror went away (for the live-view shooting) it obviously can flip any light in this special focus sensor.  To remedy this, it uses image sensor of the camera work on the update.

  The two systems are independent, and the only thing in common is that they both send instructions to the lens to move the focus in or out.    If a system of development does not work... try another (update looking in the viewfinder... and test development using the "live view" mode (only not looking in the viewfinder.))

  (3) but that leads us to the third possible problem: the lens.  The engines of development (for any Canon camera) are in the objective... not in the camera.  The camera simply gives instructions to the lens it say how adjust the setting to the point and to what extent.  Is there a problem with the lens, then it can not focus... even if there is absolutely nothing wrong with the camera itself.

  If you have a different purpose, you can swap lenses and see if the camera still has a focus problem.  If it has only a focus with a particular lens problem... it's the objective that needs service and not the camera.

• How to reset the EOS Rebel SL1 to factory settings? There is no setting in one of the keys.

  I tried the reset, read and watched the video intructions but my camera is not a "clear settings" under ONE of the functions of the menu. My menu consists of 2 camera, arrow 2 and 3 key icons.   It is different from any that I have seen in books or online.  I would be grateful for any guidance.  Thank you.

  Put it in p mode. The menus are considerably simplified in the green square.

• Problem with flash Speedlite 320EX and EOS Rebel T3i (EOS600D)

  Hi, for about 18 months, I've used this combination without a single glitch or problem. I bought the Speedlite old second hand, and all died on me in Nov. The guy I bought said it was about 3-4 years wneh I t so I thought that I just replace the same model, but buy a new one this time.

  Since it seems however not the flash unit at full power at times and at others seems not synchronized with the shutter. Sometimes it works fine, but then doesn't flash at all or has a problem that I describe above. I have returrned the flash at the company and they said their technician checked and it works fine.

  Anyone else have these problems or indeed solved these problems? Any suggestions would be very welcome.

  Thank you in advance.

  PS. edited title because I just discovered the EOS600D called the EOS Rebel T3i in the USA. I'm from Scotland.

  Other wrote:

  Thanks, yes I tried to situate the flash every time, as well as all the parameters of compensation. What seems to work he left for 10 minutes, this iften solves the problem, and I can carry on shooting images for another period. So confusing and frankly boring.

  Bravo for the answer.

  Brian

  Ten minutes for each flash? In theory there could be something wrong with the condenser and the unit needs service.

  Ten minutes, then you can fire flashes several before he had to rest again? Most likely, the batteries are weak or inappropriate to the task. Make sure you use Eneloop pros. Most serious photographers think that there is nothing better.

• EOS Rebel T3 shutter speed does not not even on Auto

  Hello community Canon!

  I didn't know really how title this problem, but I'm absolutely stumped. So recently my EOS Rebel T3 has been really act. As either the mode I am on (automatic creation, no Flash, etc.), with the exception of the manual mode, the camera will be whatever all black or all white. This is due to the camera to take photos either 1/4000 or 30 "shutter speed (even on auto mode!) I don't know why he chose only those extremes for shooting, I turn in any light. Any thoughts?

  Elrond140

  First thing is to reset the camera to factory settings.  Cancel all the settings, remove the battery from the day to the next.

  Then, you must make sure that the battery and charger will not function properly.  It is basic, but to do.

  And finally get a NEW SD of high quality which is fromatted by the camera, nothing else.

  Try again, with the camera on the green square and go outside with a good daylight.

• EOS REBEL XS display

  I just bought an EOS REBEL XS from a friend and I really like the camera, but... I like to see through display then take the picture and not using the eyepiece.  I tried and tried everything what it to reconfigure but I can't see what I'm doing wrong reset to display.  Can someone help me out here.  Oh the manual which it was not in the box...

  You can use this article to Canon Australia to help.  Follow the instructions to enter the menu, but instead to change the Live view to 'Enable' mode you will turn back on "Disable".

  http://support-au.Canon.com.au/contents/au/en/8200228500.html

  Normally, you can always download the manual of the cannon online website, but for some reason any when I shoot to the top of the XS, the documentation is missing.

• EOS Rebel T5 and an EOS Rebel T5i

  What is the difference in an EOS Rebel T5 and and EOS Rebel T5i

  A little. The "i" suffix is added to the models who are or have been at the top of the line of rebels when they were introduced. Models without the "i" suffix to the end intended to be more affordable and lower line (but frankly any SLR is a nice camera. ("Entry level" for a digital SLR is always very nice.)

  The T5i has an articulated touchscreen LCD display, all nine autofocus points are "cross-type", it has a faster continuous shooting speed and several other interesting features. The image sensor, however, is largely the same.

  Later in the line of rebels is T6i T6s. The 's' has a bill setting dial on the back and an LCD screen on top of the camera. T6i/s have a sensor improved, better ISO, more autofocus points more have been added to the development system. It is the most important upgrade to a new Rebel series body in several years. Canon tends to introduce a new body of rebels about once a year. Sometimes the differences from previous models are small, but this time, the differences are more significant.

• Canon Rebel SL1 do not download Images for Macbook Air

  My Canon Rebel SL1 won't download pictures on my Macbook Air. I downloaded the pictures happens countless times, but recently, whenever I connect my camera to my computer the following:

  iPhoto opens and it shows that my device is recognized and import the button is grayed out. The images never appear on the screen, and I am not able to do something with my photos. I have a Macbook Air, so I don't have a disk drive. I don't have a card reader.

  Please help me with this.

  Thank you

  -Hayley

  Get a card reader - they sold abut $10 - and see if that helps. Or connect to another computer - a friend even. See if that helps.

  If it is not: what version of iPhoto? What version of the operating system?

• Body of L ' goal and EOS Rebel T3i

  I asked a lot of questions here, haha.
  But I'm here with another question. So, I did a little research on the net about the use of the ' goal with a t3i and quite a few people say that they work well together? So objective L are not recommended for EOS Rebel bodies? Can someone explain this to me please.
  I recently bought the T3i and I want just a good lens. Preference for landscape photos. I'm also a few sports, low light and portrait photos.
  Suggestions for the landscape and all around the lens of photography would be great ():

  For landscape photography people often want to use a lens wide angle. Not always, there is no rule that says you can't use anything else. I say "it's usually the first thing that comes to mind

  One of the best wide angles that you get to use on a T3i is the Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM. It is not an 'L' but it doesn't matter.

  I suspect that what you have said about the use of an L series lens is due to the factor of cropping of your device photo, as has been suggested by several other responses. L - series will work fine on your camera, but all L-series lenses are models 'full frame', by definition. Therefore, none of the L will be particularly wide angle on your camera. So, when people hear 'landscape', they suggest something else that a L-series.

  You have four different purposes: landscape, sport, low light and portrait. The whole point of a DSLR as your T3i is to be able to Exchange lenses, to be able to adjust the camera for use in different situations. So I would say not to try to do it with a lens, but to look more lenses (some of which are Ls), which should ultimately give you better results. For example...

  Wide angle landscape: EF-S 10-22mm.

  Sport: 70-200/4, 70-200 / 4L, 70-200/2.8, 70-200 / 2.8 L IS II, 100-400 L IS, 300/4 L IS.

  Low light: 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, IS 35/2, 50/1.4, 50/1.8 II, 85/1.8.

  Portrait (Frank): 50/1.4, 85/1.8.

  Portrait (studio): EF - S 15-85 IS, the EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L, 24-70/4 IS, 24-70 / 2.8 L II.

  Portrait (environment): 20/2.8, 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, 35/2 IS.

  Versatile lens 'walk-around': EF-S 15-85 is... or, according to what the other lenses you get, EF - S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS or EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L IS, 24-70 / 4L IS, 24-70 / 2.8 L II.

  There are many different ways to set up a lens kit. For example, maybe you just like a wide point of view than the 10-22mm for your landscape photography. If so, instead, you can choose the lens EF-S 15-85 mm as wide enough and because it can double as a walkaround lens and can even be useful for some portraits.

  A 'minimum' kit I often hang out with a camera of harvest is: 10-22mm, 28-135 IS, 300/4 IS w / 1. 4 X teleconverter and a Tamron 60/2.0 macro/portrait.

  When I'm shooting, what I do for the most part with crop sensor cameras, I usually wear: 10-22 mm and 24-70/2.8, but my most used lenses are the IS 70-200/2.8 and 300/4 IS. (In some cases I use also 70 - 200/4 IS and 300/2.8 IS).

  For the portrait with a crop sensor camera, my favorite lenses are: 28/1.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8 and 135/2. Especially the 50mm and 85mm.

  Your camera can use all the EF-S and EF, including all of the L-series lenses. But just because a lens will fit and work does not mean it is the best choice for your application. In some cases buying a full frame capable lens for your camera will be useless... FF lenses can be bigger, heavier and more expensive... but not really give you the best performance, maybe even less. For example, a 16-35 / 2.8 L II is a wonderful goal on a FF camera, but it makes little sense to buy for use on a device of harvest. For less money, you can either get a lens that is really wide (EF-S 10-22mm), or a lens that offers a little wider range of focal lengths and IS (EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS) has.

  Depth of field in fact is not directly conducted by sizes of sensors of different cameras. What changes in depth of field are: focal length, Aperture and the distance about the goal. If you are looking for the low depth of field (blur a background for a portrait, for example), it takes a large aperture and a longer lens... and more you are close to the material the more shallow depth of field will be. If, however, you want lots of depth of field (for a landscape shot, for example), you want to use a smaller aperture and a shorter focal length... and more you are from the individual (within reasonable limits), will be the deepest depth of field.

  Where full-frame sensor vs cultures comes into force now is that for the same subject, framing with a crop sensor, that we need to stand further away with a given focal length, or if the same shooting distance will use a shorter focal length. In both cases, the result is 'less' depth of field, but it is an indirect result of different sensor size.

  Have fun shopping and learning about your new camera!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• EOS Rebel T6 - remote wireless shutter release

  Community salvation of canon,

  I'm looking for the remote control for the base EOS Rebel T6 wireless.  Everything I find says that I am unable to since there is no IR sensor on the camera.  Does anyone know of a work around for this issue?  Is that I can connect to internal wireless?

  Or if there is a good option for a wired remote which has a 10-15 ft span?

  Thank you so mcuh.

  Rob

  The rebels T6 is the most basic Canon DSLR entry level.  It lacks some features and some accessories of many people may be acquired, but it reduces the sale price.  A wireless remote is one of the few these details.

  There are third-party remotes available from companies like Vello.  I would advise to order online with a merchant of good reputation as a & B H Photo Video.  They have the best customer service around.  They also have specialists who really KNOW the train, who can help you select the best for your needs.

• lens wide-angle compatible with Canon eos Rebel t5 for $300 or less

  I'm looking for a good wide-angle compatible with my Canon eos Rebel t5 camera. I'm on a tight budget and would like to spend $300 or less on the lens. If you have any recommendations, please let me know.

  FutureSailor wrote:

  I'm looking for a good wide-angle compatible with my Canon eos Rebel t5 camera. I'm on a tight budget and would like to spend $300 or less on the lens. If you have any recommendations, please let me know.

  The STM IS to Canon EF-S 10-18 is your clear choice.

• The EFM 22 mm f/2 lens STM will work with my Canon eos Rebel t5?

  I'm looking at the lens Canon EFM 22 mm f/2 STM and I wonder if it will work for my Canon eos Rebel t5. I need to know as soon as possible. I searched other places online and cannot find something that answers my question. If anyone knows and could tell me I would really appreciate it.
  Thank you!

  EF lenses - M fit not rebel or any Canon DSLRS. They are for the M series cameras.