Export and share labels and labels colors

Similar Questions

• How files and the appropriate label color PMS separate for screen printing

  Hello

  I have to present a document Illustrator for a silkscreen t-shirt and instructions ask that I have "label own PMS color you expect the ink on the finished design." I don't know what that means, and even less how to do it. I googled and it seems to have something to do with the Pantone colours, but I couldn't find how to do this. The design is all one color, so I hope it helps me! In addition, it requires separate Illustrator files. I know this means separate into layers, but it does not design in layers. If I submit to the eps format does it matter that it's all in a single layer?

  Could someone please help me with some details on this?

  Thanks for any help you can offer.

  Mary

  .. .the instructions ask that «label own PMS colours...» I don't know what that means...

  This is an example of so-called 'experts' in the various industries of printing using inaccurate terminology that confuses potential customers, even when they are ostensibly trying to provide instruction.

  PMS stands for Pantone Matching System. PANTONE is a company that produces for commercial offset printing inks, and who publishes books swatch for these inks and color specifications. Because it has long been the player prevailing in this market for a very long before the general public graphic computers, he took the habit as a sort of de facto "standard" transmission of the colors you want. But isn't the only such system Pantone.

  To my knowledge, Pantone does not even produce screen printing inks (which are more like a painting, really). When people throw around the 'PMS' and 'Pantone' words like that, they often reveal their own misunderstanding of what really is Pantone. In all likelihood, the silkscreen that you use think Pantone Matching System is a kind of a standard universal color. They will most likely find the Pantone color number give you them, then either look at a reference or simply manually mix their screen printing inks for a match.

  ... I googled and it seems to have something to do with the Pantone colours, but I couldn't find how do...

  In most screen printing, your concern is to use spot colors in your design rather than process colors. PANTONE product specifications of colors for fairer inks spot. It produces references to the four-color, metallic inks and even fluorescent inks and inks. Different Pantone standards are represented in Illustrator as 'Libraries of nuances', which are accessible via the drop down Swatch palette menu.

  You can set any Color Swatch you use Illustrator as a spot color. When you do so, all this means is that, when the file is printed as color separations, each spot color is printed on its own plate of separation. "Plate" is a throwback term that refers to the plate on which are the images for individual inks in commercial offset printing. Silkscreen, a separate screen is built to carry the image for each ink used in the design.

  You can also name any Spot color swatch you define, using any name you want. The name has no functional effect on the printed result. Each plate separation of color is a black image, regardless. The actual color is determined by the actual ink that is loaded in the press (or serigraphy) when it is printed. That's why, when you are working in a program such as Illustrator for a project to print, you should not think in terms of inks, in terms of colors.

  For example: you can define a Spot color swatch in Illustrator. It can be set to display any color you want. You don't want to, of course, but in the interest of explanation, assume that you set the Spot color swatch to display in Illustrator as a green color. Then, you name than Swatch "Pantone 185", which is actually a red. If you now print the file as color separations to a PostScript printer (or "print" to PDF separate colors), everything to which you applied the named Swatch "Pantone 185" will be printed on a single sheet (or page PDF).» This sheet contains a picture in black and will be titled "Pantone 185.

  Actually, when you work with a local display store, I usually create tones color chart, and references to name them not according to Pantone (or other), but in the name of the actual brand of screen inks that will use the screen shop.

  So, really, your screen printer is just requiring you to build your design using a limited number of color swatches, with each defined as a spot color. He's still implying that you must name your swatches Spot according to the numbers of colors in the Pantone Matching System, simply because it is the library for the most familiar to designers color naming.

  The easiest way to do so is, for every ink that you want to print on the T-shirt:

  1. go in the Swatches palette flyout menu.

  2. select open Swatch Library > color books > Pantone Solid Coated (or solid Pantone unpaved; it isn't really very important to screen printing).

  3 scroll through the list and select the color you want. It will be added to the list of the nuances of your document.

  The design is all one color, so I hope it helps me.

  As someone else said, because your design is one color, you could simply design using the black one and then tell the silkscreen what color ink to use. But there are some caveats.

  You must print the as a composite file (normal, full color), not as separations. It is because if you simply use a shade that appears black on your screen, that swatch 'black' may in fact be built on a combination of RGB or CMYK values (depending on the colors in your document). To print separations colors can not result in a solid black on the black plate image. It goes same for design tips by using just one color. If you want the ink to be red, and you want to design using red, then red Swatch must be defined as a spot color. Otherwise, print as red as separations or composite will not give a solid black image.

  In addition, it requires separate Illustrator files.

  Once again, unclear. There is no such thing as a "separate Illustrator file." Any Illustrator file can be printed (or saved as PDF) as a color-separations. Once again, that the printer must be clear here, it is that you build your Illustrator file so that it can be printed as separations, with each split corresponding to an ink that is responsible in his silkscreens. In practice, this means just be sure to use only the color tones in your work.

  Yet once, this illustrates the fact that a technician working in a particular printing environment can be 'expert' in his shop, is not because he know didly on the software and the workflow used on the design front.

  For stores of the most banal local screen, the safest way to prepare an Illustrator file, which leaves nothing to question is:

  1. make sure you know how much different inks are used for printing design. (Don't forget: think inks; not "color".)

  2 build your design using nothing but the Spot color swatches and a Swatch for each ink. Do not use any process of nuances. In fact, recommended is to remove all the nuances that are not actually used in your design.

  3 ' print' an Illustrator, Adobe PDF document as "printer." (I think that you need to have Adobe Acrobat installed in order to view a selection of the printer Adobe PDF.) I don't know, because I am never without Acrobat Professional.) In the output of the print dialog pane, specify separations, not composite.

  This will result in a PDF file that contains a separate page for each ink. The image on each page will be black. That's exactly what the screen printing needs to print to 'positive film' (which nowadays are often translucent paper, not film) which it will use as masks then "burn" his screens.

  ... I know this means separate into layers, but I did not design it in layers...

  Do not confuse with layers color separation. They are totally independent functions. Layers is just a way to organize objects that you create in your file. Color separation is a print function. It occurs when you print to a device which includes the separation of colors (e.g.: a PostScript device) or when you export to a PDF of the color separation, as described above.

  It is a common misconception (miss-hypothesis) among beginners. Programs such as Illustrator may help you design with every object that is colored with ink of separation including residence in a layer that is dedicated to this particular ink, it would be absurd debilitating. Again, the layers is just a "fork" of the stack of objects in your file. These objects can be in any order on any number of layers and stacking. This has nothing to do with printing on color separations. (Stacking order comes into play when overprinting is involved, but even this does not yet require layers correspond to the inks of separation.)

  If I submit to the eps format does it matter that it's all in a single layer?

  EPS does not help. Think EPS is nothing but a file format that puts the contents of your Illustrator file in a 'black box' so that it can be "passed through" to the printer by programs that do not understand PostScript. If the content of your Illustrator file is built to target printing method, it will be the content of the EPS. Today, the PDF is more flexible and easier to work with than BPA anyway.

  JET

• How to export and share a project ADF correctly?

  We are experiencing some difficulties with our SVN, so for now that I'm trying to share an ADF application I started developing with another developer making a zip file of the entire application directory. We use the two 11.1.1.6 JDeveloper.

  My colleague extracted the zip file and open the file request TJS and JDeveloper on his machine doesn't seem to be grateful that there is an ADF application. Many of the ADF libraries are missing from the classpath of the project and the design editor does not correctly open the JSF files and shows a lot of mistakes.

  Why this is happening? What is the right way to export and share a workspace application ADF?

  First thng try is rename the system11.1.1.x.x.x.x folder and restart jdev. Jdev will recreate the file, but a misconfiguration in the folder disappeared and it might help to get it working again. However, any customizations in jdev disappeared. It's as if jdev is freshly installed.

  If you try this and you get the question if you want to migrate a plus version answer 'no' you might get the error back in this way.

  Timo

• Lightroom 3 and CS5 color change when recording to JPEG

  Desperately need help on this one...

  In a nutshell if I use lightroom 3 only and print the images printed images are exactly the same on the screen - so I guess the calbration of the screen is correct.

  If I use lightroom 3 and export to CS5 to continue to make adjustments more when I save the image in jpeg, it seems to have saved well. However if you then maximize the photo in full-screen colors change - radically. Basically, they look aweful. They become quite dull and lose it saturation settings (which were made originally in Lightroom). They print this much too.

  It drives me crazy. I don't think that it has nothing to do with the calibration because it is OK when just using LR3.

  I played with it quite a bit to try to find a solution and have found that if I export for CS5 and Lightroom makes no changes to the photos but just save - she always changes the colors

  Sorry - if it makes a difference... may not, but I have not exported from lightroom for CS5.

  Everything I do is select the right click, click on edit in the > Adobe Photoshop CS5.1...

  Then in CS5 it opens and appears exactly the same as in LR

  From there, I click on file > save under > Jpeg formats and there is an another labeled checked - ICC profile: Prophoto RGB (not really sure what it is and there is no other options to change)

  I tried to show a difference in color by joining the photo.

  Photo right is edited in Lightroom. These colors are what you see when it is maximized on screen and the colors print correctly too. This photo has been open and then in CS5 (photo left) (with LR adjustments) and saved as jpeg and you can see how to change the colors. But you do not see the change unless the screen is completely optimized - and she that prints a lot too.

  I don't know what to do someone had similar problems?

  

  Yes.  Had something similar last night, but with LR 4.1. I suspect that we each have a color profile mismatch, although I had no time to solve my problem yet.

  My first thought is that the native LR color space is Prophoto default, but PhotoShop must have its 'working color space' specified by the user.  Unless Prophoto is specified in PS, there will be differences in color on a Prophoto image scale (sensitivity) of color-travel will vary from one image to the opening image.

  To change the workspace in PS, pull down the Edit menu and select "color settings".

  Don't forget to check the box to inform you and ask how you want to handle the inadequacy of the color profile.

  As the previous poster said, prophoto is a bad choice for the use of the web.  probbaly the most commonly used color space sRGB is relatively low

  Good luck.

  Jerry

• Remove and check color on Officejet 7310 cartridge

  I need all possible solutions for a new error message - remove and check color cartridge.  I work on a Mac OS 10.6.8 and aired recently in a lot of printer problems.  My HP Officejet 7310 was low on black ink, so I replaced the cartridge and it aligned properly without any problem. Later, when I tried to print labels, it gave me an error message and flashing exclamation point "remove and check color cartridge.  The color cartridge is not new and has not been replaced recently. It is half full. I did remove the cartridge and saw nothing wrong, so I re-inserted it. Once again, the same message. Then I tried to clean the copper contacts, as I've done it before. Still no change. I did a search for solutions and tried the following supposedly a HP technical support:

  Solution 1:

  Follow the steps below to power cycle your all-in-one:

  1. check that the device is on. Unplug the all-in-one power
  and unplug the USB/Ethernet cable.
  2. wait 30 seconds.
  3. connect the power supply only.
  4. Repeat steps 1-3 two times more.
  5. on the third time after plugging the unit running, reconnect the cable to the
  All-in-one to your computer.
  6. check the feature;

  Solution 2:

  Remove the cartridges from the printer and follow the steps below:

  1. clean the copper contacts of the cartridge with a slightly moistened cloth or a cotton swab
  with water distilled, filtered, or bottled. The tap water may contain contaminants that can
  damage to the ink cartridges.
  2. clean the contacts in the print carriage, inside the printer. Transport print contacts are made of copper and are found in transport, so that they line up with the contacts of the cartridge when the cartridge is installed.

  Solution 3:

  Reset the all-in-one to the default settings by using these instructions:
  1. disconnect the power cable from printer when the printer is on.
  2 press and hold # and 6 while plugging in the power cord.

  Continue holding until it displays the message Reset full Semi the front panel of the all-in-one device.

  NONE of them worked.  I am connected by USB as ever, our WiFi seems to remain stable.  Can offer you solutions to the problem?

  Kudo!  Kudo!  of course, the voltage is too low or the amps available short-term (short-term reserve amps.)  with 2 good carbatteries, I could establish free error initialize, all in this one works very well. Make sure the power supply is adequate, thank you and congratulations to all of you!

• Default label colors?

  Hello

  I recently changed my colors to default on the front label while working on a project with other editors.

  I finished on the project, and I would now like to change the default label colors. But it doesn't seem to be a feature of handing over. Nobody knows what are the default names and hexadecimal codes?

  Thank you!

  Hello

  Thank you for contacting the forums, I have hexadecimal color codes. Please try and check whether or not they work.

  Violet, Iris, Caribbean, lavender, Cerulean, forest, Rose, mango

  A690E0, 729ACC, 29 D 698, E384E3, 2FBFDE, B 51, 858, F76FA4, EDEB3B.

  Please update once that these codes work.

  Thank you

  Vinay

• Adobe Acrobat clears the PDF edited-recorded files Finder label color

  Wipes of Acrobat X Pro 10.1 Adobe the label color Finder of PDF files when edited with Acrobat. For example, if a PDF file has a particular color of Finder labels, if so it is opened and edited or simply change in any way (for example, just mark some text with the fluorescent marker yellow) and saved, Acrobat clears the such file Finder label color.

  How to send feedback to Adobe about this problem?

  Thank you.

  Report the problem here: https://www.adobe.com/cfusion/mmform/index.cfm?name=wishform

• iMac times 5K vs Mac Pro which is best for export and rendering?

  I am looking for a new machine edition and I'm debating between the new 5K iMac or Mac Pro.  I'm looking for something that will allow me to save time on exports of compression.

  Typical editing session:

  Adobe first Pro CC mixed with some compositions after effects CC.  Export via Media encode.

  -90 minutes of film Pro Res 422

  -Simple fades chained between songs

  -Green Screen to inlay

  -Light color correction

  -Graphic non-animation on screen

  -Possibility of some sequences of 4K (no more than 5 minutes)

  -Sequences linked to the external hard drive - exports going to the same drive. (Work of thunderbolt flow - see question below)

  When I edit the rough cuts for the approval of the customer, I would be compressed in H.264 format for easier time download and playback via the cloud service (Vimeo, Dropbox or car) sharing

  Which of these machines will be most effective in rendering, export and compression?

  When I say effective, I mean, the Mac Pro will save an hour or two in the export of time me?  From what I understand, they are almost identical.  Mac Pro can accelerate a little with 12-cores, but the processor is slower on the 12-core.

  PS - someone has a suggestion of confidence on a Thunderbolt 2 hard drive to edit out of?

  Ryan

  Yes IE reading using 1 disk as media and exported to a separate drive will be faster export. Time of export of the AE exceed normally until the time of the export of first if the comps are something more basic. So if this time receiver is something your tent to relieve the cores/threads are making a difference in the RAM. The drive Bay 4 will give you redundancy and protection of data. If losing a days worth of work is not a big deal separated readers are very good. If this isn't the case, then you may want to consider the Bay 4 after all.

  Eric
  ADK

• LR4 and CS4 color mismatch

  I'm working on a print image and I had to take the image of the LR4 for CS4 to edit more vast, that I couldn't do in LR (using the clone brush major - pain in the neck to do in LR). I did a lot of research and made the suggestion given to cases similar (but different) with nothing doesn't. Here is the results of my experiments:

  • LR4 open files in CS4 via LR loses a lot of orange hues, loses contrast and just generally look washed out and anemic. File opened using LR copy by applying adjustments.
  • Exports LR4 (JPEG, TIFF, PSD) looks ok in Preview/Finder of Mac as they are in the LR4.
  • LR4 exports seem to always anemic when opened manually separately in CS4.
  • I imported the export files to LR4 and they look very well (not washed out as in CS4).
  • I did anyway the clone brush in CS4, saved the file under a different name, they look washed out in CS4, but take a good look when open in the Mac preview AND when they are imported into LR4.

  I tried to change the settings of export in LR and PS color workspace both match each other (sRGB, AdobeRGB and ProPhoto RGB) and the difference in color is still visible. I use a start 13 "2011 Macbook Pro with the native of the calibrated screen only, using Spyder3 Elite. Assesment Spyder 3's nearest to AdobeRGB with more than yellow/orange cover AdobeRGB color space of the monitor.

  OpenGL checked or unchecked box also made no difference.

  Can someone help me please? At this point, I'm ignoring the washed color in CS4 and just using LR4 as my reference.

  Hi, I did not read the other thread, but I would like to

  Download a copy of the .jpg ProPhotoRGB PDI marked here

  www.gballard.net/Photoshop/pdi_download/

  then open it in Lr and Ps (using the embedded profile, do no conversion)

  which is off?

  If Photoshop is badly displayed, you are probably being hit with the scene referred, OpenGL, or profile version 4 bugs

  information on the profiles of bad and bugs here

  www.gballard.net/PSD/colorlooksbad.html

• Export and general issues of file

  Hey guys,.

  We do a lot of catalogs from 8pp to 24pp and seem to have a lot of questions on export-exporting and just using the files.

  My system is as follows

  Intel Core 2 Quad Q8200
  4 GB of ddr3 RAM (only 3.5 get used)

  Windows XP pro SP3

  and Adobe CS3 Master Collection

  
  the catalogues are very heavy images and I was wondering if the following situations can cause problems:

  File Jerkness overall while navagating through documents.

  -Is a common problem?

  -several images with an effective resolution of more than 1200 will cause jerks

  -All placed images should be as close to 300 PPI as possible?

  -Make Illustrator files with mixtures of blur and transparency (I recently had a problem with that)

  PDF export

  -Computers just crash

  -Sometimes have errors of jpeg.

  -Errors of memory

  All files get packaged prior to export and all the CMYK image color profiled.

  We use master pages and character styles or paragraph and errors occur on multiple computers.

  
  So basically I was wondering especially if it's how we create and place documents or is it a problem of computer hardware/software.

  Any help would be appreciated

  Thank you.

  Probably a bad image on this page.

  Try to divide and conquer searching for it:

  Remove half of the page objects. If it exports, it is in half you deleted, otherwise it is always on the page.

  Return the objects to delete. If the bad object is in this group, remove half of this group, otherwise, remove half of the other group.

  Repeat until the object is isolated, should only take a few tries, then rebuild this image and replace.

  Moreover, my first suspects would be EPS. It is also possible that several objects is a problem, but it's less likely.

• On a flyer, I need to produce black and PMS color. How can I create a PMS color (instead of something on the color wheel).

  On a flyer, I need to produce black and PMS color. How can I create a PMS color (instead of something on the color wheel or RGB)?

  It depends on the application. You use an inDesign application of PAO as Quark XPress, or something else?

  Many consumer apps is not able to output CMYK or specific pantone color combinations.

• HP Color LaserJet MFP M177 Pro: Problems of analysis between iMac and HP Color LaserJet Pro M177fw MFP

  Hello

  I had no wifi problems between my Imac and HP Color LaserJet M177fw MFP Pro to scan until recently - it can be related to operating system update to OSX 10.11.4 which was done yesterday however.

  I can scan is no longer docyuments from the top of the charger page - scan starts but just hangs and then I can not re - activate the scan function until I have to force it to quit.

  Can you suggest appropriate corrective measures to try please?

  Thank you very much.

  Hello

  Make sure you have the latest drivers installed:

  In the Apple menu, click about this Mac, and then software update.

  Click on the main menu store reload the Page, and then select allow for the update check completed and install any publicly traded Apple / HP update.

  Then install problems with the products HP LaserJet on OS X El Capitan of scanning HP Software Update to address documents (ADF) automatic feeder:

  http://FTP.HP.com/pub/softlib/software12/OSX/HP_Easy_Start/Essentials/S/HP-printer-Essentials-S-4_5_0.pkg

  Kind regards

  Shlomi

• Green and amber color on ethernet?

  What do green and orange color: ethernet, or the LAN port?

  Depends on what network card is supported. On this off is 10 Mbps, orange is 100 Mbps and the Green is 1 Gbit/s over a LAN

• How to export and print a specific group of contacts in Windows Live Mail

  Original title: list of Contacts in the Contact Group
  I use Vista with Windows Mail, and I want to create a Word Doc that lists the names and addresses of a specific group of Contact in my list of email Contacts. I tried to copy and paste, but it does not work and I also tried to use the export but it exports just my full Contact list. Can someone help please? You can also simply print a list of names in my specific Contact Group?

  Hello

  There is no option in Windows Mail to export or print a specific contact group.
  You can export all contacts to Excel and edit/print as you wish.

  Follow these steps to export the Windows Mail Contacts to Excel:
  a. open Windows Contacts by clicking on the Start button, all programs, and then clicking Windows Contacts.
  b. on the toolbar, click on export and then click on the CSV format.
  CSV (Comma Separated Values). It is a format of generic file used to export or import information to and from databases or spreadsheets.
  c. click Export, select a folder where you want to store your contacts in the new format and then click OK.
  d. when a message appears telling you that the contacts export process is complete, click OK and then click Close.

  See these articles for help:
  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows-Vista/import-export-or-change-the-format-for-contacts

  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows-Vista/print-contacts

  Kind regards
  Afzal Taher-Microsoft Support.
  Visit our Microsoft answers feedback Forum and let us know what you think.

• Printer send error reports all-in-one HP PSC 2355 'remove and check color cartridge '.

  When sending of works for the all-in-one printer HP PSC 2355 of my laptop Acer Aspire with Windows XP and a USB connecton,

  I get an error message on the screen flip to say remove and check color cartridge. I do this, but nothing has changed and now the switch does not work either as a result I can't do anything, it's just frozen.

  If anyone can help I would be very gratefull, but please remember that I am a complete novice with these things.

  Thank you

  daisy70

  Hello daisy70,

  Because the printer is frozen we will start by doing a reset of the printer. Instructions available via this link and posted directly below as well.

  Reset the printer

  Follow these steps to perform a reset of the product.

• My photos get a gray, yellow and green color through them.

  I seem to be grey, green, yellow and sometimes pink colours imagined through my photos. The gray color can cover half of or completely cover the image. Pink, green and yellow colors are transparent but cover the whole image. Not all the photos that were on them, but the computer appears to be picking rendom photos already uploaded pictures and photos that I am about to download from different cameras. How can I solve this problem? frustrating when I can't see my pictures. Thank you

  A color profile can cause the problem.

  No guarantee, but the following links may provide
  a solution.

  (942632) how to remove the association between
  the display and a color profile when images are
  displayed with the wrong color
  http://support.Microsoft.com/kb/942632/en-us

  (939395) when you view an image in Windows
  Photo Gallery on a Windows Vista-based computer,
  the picture is yellow
  http://support.Microsoft.com/kb/939395/en-us

  Windows 7 & Vista - remove color profiles
  http://helpdesk.wisc.edu/Helpdesk/page.php?id=14020

  Microsoft PhotoBlog of frequently asked Questions:
  http://blogs.msdn.com/PIX/pages/FAQ.aspx#Q6
  Read: "q: why my pictures have a weird color.
  Enter the Photo Gallery (but look good in XP
  Photo and Fax and IE Viewer)? »

  Yellow pictures in Windows Photo Gallery
  http://www.Vistax64.com/Vista-General/29665-yellow-pictures-Windows-Photo-Gallery.html

  ---

  jmc777 wrote:
  "I found a solution: you will need".
  to clear all color management profiles for
  your screen... You do this - and everything is
  in the photo gallery.

  ===

  fixed jmc777 link it for me (regular Vista Premium).
  Here's what I did.

  1 - right click on the desktop, choose personalize then
  display settings. Click Advanced settings, and then
  Select the "color management" tab, then click on the
  button management color once again.

  He showed a profile and I was unable to click on the
  'remove' button. I clicked on the checkbox "use my.
  settings for this device. I could then highlight the
  Profile and click on delete.

  I don't know what he will do to the system, but it fixes
  the yellow background.

  Note, once the profile is deleted, by clicking on the
  "profiles" button and then selecting "reset my settings".
  to the default settings of the system", it seems to recreate the
  Profile, but this time images are not yellow (although
  I have not yet rebooted to see if it makes a
  difference).

  ==

  He's back again today, I recommend you to remove the
  Color profile and let it go.