Focal point of magnetism?

Similar Questions

• Sony A57 AF area spot focal point

  Hello

  After selecting 'spot' on the area AF function, how can I move the focal point on my desired location focus on my subject, please help im a new user.

  Thank you!

  If your A57 is in development mode spot it will use only the central Focus point, you will need to set it to single selective point, then use the arrow keys to move to the point you want.

• Translate the focal point of a radial gradient?

  Hello

  Working from the great response in this thread, I'm trying to move the center point of the gradient of an object. Here's my test code:

  var idoc = app.activeDocument;
  var ipath =  idoc.selection[0];
  ipath.translate(
      100, // deltaX
      100, // deltaY
      false, // transformObjects
      false, // transformFillPatterns
      true, // transformFillGradents
      false // transformStrokePattern
  );
  

  Unfortunately, nothing I have try actually works.

  Anyone know what the trick is to place the origin of a radial gradient?

  Thank you!

  Why don't you use the code in the great response this thread?

  you left out some vital lines

  // transform gradients findings
  // select a path item with a gradient applied to it before running the script 
  
  var idoc = app.activeDocument;
  var ipath =  idoc.selection[0];
  var fillcolor = ipath.fillColor; 
  
  ipath.filled = false; // remove previous gradient transformations, to be able to apply new ones ?? 
  
  ipath.fillColor = fillcolor; // re apply the same gradient color, without transformations.
  ipath.fillOverprint = ipath.fillOverprint; // without this, the gradient won't move or scale, but it does rotate ?? 
  
  ipath.translate(
      100, // deltaX
      100, // deltaY
      false, // transformObjects
      false, // transformFillPatterns
      true, // transformFillGradents
      false // transformStrokePattern
  );
  

• Gradient focal point

  Hello

  Is there a way I can make the center of the highest point of Sun is more under the Dove?

  I fiddled with the options in the gradient panel, but nothing.

  Thank you!!!

  Esther

  

  

  It is always wise to indicate what version of Illustrator and what OS you are using.

  Select the gradient tool. Click-drag with it... from where you want the Center.

  If you are using CS4 or better, by selecting just the gradient tool will show degraded Annotator, you can then adjust the Annotator instead of click-and - drag.

• Magnetic load point on defective Z2

  I got a Z2 since September and have never been able to use the magnetic charge with the DK 36, supplied with the phone.

  The magnetic clasp connects the phone to the charging station, but the phone does not charge. I've only been plug the docking station into the power supply (as shown). I have

  have tried to replace the docking station and with the help of another, but this makes no difference. The point of magnetic charge is not cowardly.

  Someone at - he had this problem and managed to get it fixed without sending their phone to Sony? If so, how to solve it?

  Thanks in advance for your help...

  You must return your device to the place of purchase or contact Xperia care http://www.sonymobile.com/global-en/support/contact-us/

• Opening and talking Points

  Apple Aperture has the feature that, when enabled, allows you to see the point (s) point on a photo.  I noticed that it works when I use my 60 d with a Canon EFS 18-200 mm, but not when I mounnt my Canon 100-400 L lens.

  I would like to hear if others have seen this and, if possible, can be done to remedy this.

  Thank you

  Ed

  Hi Edward1064!

  Thanks for posting.

  You will need to contact Apple directly to see if they know why the talking points are not displayed.  Our own software, Canon Digital Photo Professional, will display the update when you set, no matter what the goal was used on the camera.  The only reason you wouldn't see a focal point is if a focus lock has not been reached or implemented manual focus has been used.  It is also something you might want to consider.

• Create magnetic landmark on an image?

  Hello

  with adobe first pro

  I have a picture that I would like to create magnetic landmarks to stall another image precisely on these points of reference.

  is it possible please, in advance thank you

  virgileb

  This is the English translation that I get using Google Translate and read your message from the French into English

  Hello

  with adobe first pro

  I have an image I want to create points of magnetic bearings to calibrate another image precisely on these landmarks.

  is it possible please, thanks in advance

  If you are using Premiere Pro, then you have posted in the wrong forum. Some how your son got posted in the Adobe Premiere elements Forum.

  Please re - ask your question in the Adobe Premiere Pro forum to take advantage of the expertise there.

  Premiere Pro

  If you are using Premiere Elements, I would ask you to look at the slide show feature to create in the Active Project Palette of first items 11 to 14. But you're not. Where your son is, she's going to learn more.

  Best wishes

  RTA

• Pacilion g119dx 17: 17-g119dx Pavilion chassis disassemble problem

  Having a serious problem with disassembly.  Have check the user guide followed all instructions make sure that all screws are out.  Corners correctly pressures from all sides.  Hoever it seems ot at least 2 points of fixation, located towards the arriere-moyen area, approximately in the region in the '5' and '9' around the keyboard key areas.

  I did a little glances to see if I can visually see the exact points, but will not force to break these focal points.

  Absolutely no screws even in the field... period.  The keyboard is not removable on top.  Is it possible screws under one of the keys on the keyboard, I need to draw these neeny to uncscrew these connection points?

  It is a technical design absolutely horrible by HP.  This is done to do nothing more to upgrade the RAM, which has two memory slots and one is empty (I can see, but cannot get to it without being able to remove the bottom of the chassis).

  I searched the internet for a soltion and even called HP "adapter tech", which had no idea (big surprise).

  Any help to solve this will be greatly appreciated!  I already spent hours trying to find a resolution, without success.

  TIA!

  Remove 2 screws under an oval lid plastic on the bottom... worked for my 17-g120nr.

• Crazy auto app switching and icon bounce.

  People, I don't know what is the cause, but it did not happen before El Capitan:

  Whenever I work in Final Cut Pro X and switch to another application, even if it is busy doing something, the icon in the dock bounces continuously.  Even more annoying, however, is that the OS will switch the applications on its own as in a window in the Finder or Apple Mail.  It seems that FCP X wants attention and try to return himself becoming the focal point.  I'm not sure. While I try to go to yet another application, the operating system just puts apps on me.

  Any ideas?

  OS X 10.11.2

  iMac, OS X El Capitan (10.11.2), null

  This one is weird.

  I would suspect something in the operating system.

  This ONLY happen when FCP X is running? What is he doing? There is a visible trend to this?

  Two innocuous things to try: 1) safe boot mode (hold down the SHIFT key immediately after pressing the power button and until the Apple logo appears), then reboot normally again. (2) delete FCP x preferences (hold down the command and option keys when FCP X starting and confirm to remove preferences).

  Note: 1) while in Safe Mode, your mac will be slower, and it can take a long time to start. It's normal. (2) after deletion of the preferences you need to locate and open the libraries you use maybe, but this isn't any delete or change your content well course, you will need to go to preferences and set them as you want.

• determine the center of the 2D image

  I want to know how to determine the center of a 2Dpicture

  in my vi, I want the departure of pen to draw line from the center of the image

  any help please?

  Hi iman.

  as you know the size of your image, it should be easy to calc the focal point:

  center_x =(x_max+x_min)/2

  center_y =(y_max+y_min)/2

• Settings/discontinuity of SineWave

  Hello

  Is it possible to have two sinusoids that play one after the other would accuse discontinuity? I know that I can can use the setting Phase and calculate as follows:

  y = Amplitude_A * sin (frequency * time + Phase_A)
  Bias_B = Amplitude_A * sin (frequency * time + Phase_A)

  Since time = 0:
  Bias_B = Amplitude_A * Sin (Phase_A)

  Insulation Phase_A:
  Phase_A = ASIN (Bias_B/Amplitude_A)

  (and I convert it into degrees)

  So I have a function that is as smooth as possible, but it does not work if I have a sine wave of 800 (max) 200 (min), followed by another 600 (max) to 400 (min). If my bias is higher the Amplitude (just as in this example), I have no way to go at the end of the first sine wave at the beginning of the second without discontinuity or ramp. Ideally, I'd like the transition for a curve.

  Sorry if this is not clear, English is not my first language.

  Thanks in advance

  Hey PPrez.

  I think the only way to ensure that it will not be a discontinuity for make sure that you have the sine wave to a point common. Since we are not changing the frequency and that we are not changing the focal point of the amplitude (500 in two waves), the best way to get this change with minimum discontinuity is to change to cross this line 500. There is no necessary dephasing, because point central it should be phase 0 and pi of two waves depending on whether you cross low to high or high to low. You can also implement fenestration during the transition period to minimize discontinuity, but this will change the shape of your signal during this period.

• convolution vi

  Hi all

  I have two Gaussian profiles and lorentziennes, which their convolution should be a Voigt profile. I'm simply using convolution.vi, but the result is not so much that I was expecting. I enclose my front panel and block diagram. As you can see it the Voigt (G * L) is much much lower than two G and L. In addition, the focal point has shifted 500 points!

  Everyone please help me understand what is the problem?

  Thank you

  Soran

  I thought about it

• Identify a segment of circle

  I want to identify a segment of circle with the click of an operator according to the picture below. The operator clicks on a segment and the result should be the number of segment. Anyone has a solution or an idea how to do this?

  

  Jorn

  You can use the nodes property to the image (right click on Segmentkreis in the block diagram, choose Create property node).  The Position property you give the coordinates of the upper-left corner of the image in pixels and the size of the area draw you will give the width and height of the image.  Now if you know the coordinates of the mouse, you can express this in polar coordinates from the center of the image.  If the RADIUS indicates that the mouse is 'in the wheel', you can use the angle argument to determine in what segment you are.  Note that your code has Segments and Angle start as parameters, so your sub - VI 'Where is the mouse?' will need to know these values, as well.

  Bob "Is only of Math" Schor

  PS - of interest is that you have created an image with a bounding box 0, 0 and 500, 500.  As expected, the original of the picture property is 0, 0.  Not so anticipated, is that the size of area to draw is 498, 498, as if the outermost pixels are not part of the area to draw.  A small detail, but it can cause an "off-by-one" error when you try to calculate the focal point.

  Moral of the story - write some code and test cases, do some tests to make sure that you understand how things like properties work.

• T6i that is black and white turn signals residents and or fills my images. Set WB & AWB by book

  I have a Baseboard of action white or black flashing in or outside my captured image, even with manual settings AWB or BM.   I have not experienced this after the purchase and use of my T6i. I am at a loss why I feel that.  I'm shooting with a USM Tamron 70-200mm f2.8 DI Vc.   I shoot soccer in broad daylight and under the lights at night @ but I have the same problem with other photos as well.  My old T2i has never had this problem.  Y at - it something wrong with my camera or am I just not put something correctly?  I lived in the book tries to address this problem; However, I can't find anything that I put in line with the instructions manual that defeated my problem.  Someone at - it guidance to this problem?  I would be grateful for any assistance with this anomaly.  Another thing is that I only got my T6i for four months and the lens about two months less.  I can adjust my problem with the Canon software better if I shoot RAW, which I did.  When I shoot in Jpeg and imagers are washed out and almost white, I gave up trying to fix because of the distortion.  The image is just sunk.  Help

  First, since you have evolved around your white balance and perhaps other settings light up in the manual for instructions on how to clear the device settings (this should be a subject of Index).

  Like Bob, if you are shooting in conditions with retro-lighting in particular, you can have a scene that exceeds the what is called the dynamic range of the camera. If your subject is properly exposed, but the background is too bright, you will get the "blinkies" which are the tewlling you the background are more exposed.

  If you get a washed-out picture you probably have a bad parameter. Erase the camera settings, choose Center of focal point and program Mode and shoot a scene in the light of the 'normal' day - subject to the Sun with the sun behind you. If that comes out OK nothing wrong with the camera. If not OK then it could be a camera problem if it comes up with several lenses.

• I have attached a few photos taken in Ireland, you can take a peek

  Thanks to all who helped me with my problems of lens. I got the Peterson, book and read it carefully. I enclose a photo taken in Ireland last year. Can take you a look? Used my 5DM 3 with lens EF 24-105mm 1.5.

  OK, now I understand you are looking for criticism...

  To my way of thinking, there are two or three parts of how I criticize.  Additionally, when you ask for criticism on the public forum, expect honesty (nobody would do you any favorite if they were dishonest in the hope of not to hurt feelings).  Then promise to melt.

  If an image is entered in a contest, the judges would not necessarily time to properly evaluate each image.  They are looking for 'timeout value.  Here's what that means: imagine you're flicking your way through a magazine... looking at the picture after after.  They are all "nice"... but then you come across something with impact.  It forces you to stop and linger for a while on this image instead of simply continue to turn the page.  This 'pause' is what I mean by 'value to stop '.  You can shoot a photo fo a sunset Sun, but we have all seen thousands of sunsets so a sunset is unlikely to get anyone's attention (it should really be an amazing sunset).

  Normally, I'm looking for bases...

  -What is the upgrade to the point?

  Is technically correct exposure (not over-exposed or underexposed)?

  -And then there is a variation on this... the exhibition is also artistic attractive?  Have you used a narrow depth of field to help some element of the image stand out and blur the background & foreground?  Have you used a shutter speed to create motion blur and involves a feeling of movement in a photo?  These are examples of ways to be not only "technically" correct, but artistically and creatively engaging.

  What the composition?  You draw look me at something?  Doesn't it seem balanced?   Is the awkward cropping?

  I could go on with more examples, but the point is, I would look for a technically good picture and also an attractive artistic image that draws me in.

  While your image is nicefly focused and well exposed, what am I missing, it is a focal point of interest.    I guess you could say that these rocks are a focal point, but the framing is random and nothing especially attracts me to this topic.

  Shutter speed was fast enough to 'freeze' the movement of water and the water is dramatic (he's not a storm or huge waves, etc.)  In other words, is there anything of particular interest in the water.   If you want to evoke a feeling or an emotion of tranquility or peace, you could use a neutral density filter (for example 10 stop filter) and take a picture of long exposure (on a tripod) near evening, and also to the low level of water near and it blurs a look almost glass-like water (sometimes if the water is a little more active ", you get a misty look).  Use of a circular polarizer (CPL) can help to adjust the reflection of the water and make it easier to see the bottom in the water.

  You mentioned that you have the Peterson book (I assume you mean "Understanding exposure" by Bryan).  In this book, you will learn how to turn in "manual mode".  I think everyone should learn to shoot in manual mode and then learn how to decide when to use fast shutter speed speeds up rather than slow shutter speeds or openings close vs. openness for creative impact.  Once you know "how" to control your cmaera for impact, you can't use just 'manual' - I use almost all modes on my camera.

  There is a book that I like on the composition of Michael Freeman called "the photographer's eye: composition and Design for better Digital Photos.

  Take some time to read... then take a LOT of time to go shoot and practice.  Some people are strong supporters of "comes out and shoot".  I prefer to shoot with a goal... read something, then go try to apply this thing (instead of justing out aimlessly).   This is useful because you can come home, review your shots and decide how well you achieved your goal (doing things of goals that you can achieve with realism).