From the EOs 2 VO

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• I can trigger a flash remotely from the EOS Utility?

  Hello. I am a total newbie, so forgive me if my question is very basic or confused.

  I just bought a Rebel T5i (literally, my first ever buy SLR) and have been using the EOS utility to be able to "live view" on my desktop screen. It seems to work pretty well.

  However, I am interested with the addition of a flash remotely as a Speedlite flash, to be placed between the subject and background. Will be a remote flash correctly from live view EOS Utility work? Should it be a Speedlite flash, or can it be a third flash?

  I'm not too considered with flash quality as much as I just want to be able to take pictures with the EOS Utility live view, with the remote flash fires to light a backdrop behind the subject.

  Thank you!

  As Ernie points out... the computer simply tells the camera when taking the shot.  If the camera has a flash, then the camera fires the flash when he takes this one.

  But your question is loaded with some nuances and it is not just a direct response.

  A Canon T5i has the ability to fire distance a Canon speedlite if three conditions are met:

  (1) the flash must support E - TTL

  (2) the flash must support E - TTL mode 'slave' (and that the mode must be enabled - it will not be enabled by default.)

  (3) flash must be direct "corridor" between the camera and remotely.

  The camera itself needs to be said that it is in a mode where the flash pop up on the device will work as a 'master' to trigger a remote flash.

  But you mentioned that you wanted to put this flash to distance between a subject and the context - which implies that 'line of sight' is not possible.  Who calls other WIRING.

  You can learn a lot about flash systems Canon E - TTL of the "Manual of the Speedlighter" (by Syl Arena), but this book has not been updated (as far as I know) to include systems flash triggered by Canon's new radio.

  To do this with the Canon gear, you want a transmitter of radio ST-E3-RT (which amounts to the hoof as a flash camera) and then use a flash Canon Speedlight with a suffix 'RT' such as flash 600EX-RT (flash light) or the new 430EX III - RT.  All products of "RT" communicate by radio and do not require a line of sight direct.

  It is also possible to do with budget gear..., you can get a pair of transceivers trigger... we're going on the device and the other goes hand in hand with the remote flash.  These radio triggers are not "E - TTL", which means that the camera and the flash will not be able to communicate and negotiate the amount of energy must be used for shooting "on the fly" (as can an E - TTL flash).  This means that you will need to manually set the power level you want to use.

  Having to use manual flash should not be terribly difficult to learn.  The flash and the camera usually automatically set your power level, as it would for E - TTL flashes.  You control the light, by adjusting the power level of the flash (manually) or by moving the flash closer or away from your topic (or using the flash light modifiers) more, or by adjusting the opening of the camera.

  This works well in a situation of type 'studio', where you can control the power settings.  But for photography of the 'event' where you have to shoot on-the-fly and you "-over" If rush you the shot, you have to learn the flash behavior before the shooting. For me, it means creating a table which indicates (for any given on the flash power level) f-stop, should I use any flash-to-subject distance given.  I used usually non-zooms at this time, but I knew that, for example, a shot of 'dance' a couple of size - up to (what we call a "half coup" because we have only half upper body of our subject) was f/16 at ISO 100.  A length of 3/4 shot (essentially from the knees upwards) was f/11.  A shot of 'length' was f/8, and a group shot can be f/5.6 or even f/4.

  It necessary to the good days past tests and completing such a table.  You won't have the time to refer to such a table, but I mentally memorized by distance because the subject framing was a good consistent indicator of distance.  (it is a bit more complicated with zooms because you can change the subject framing without changing the distance).   But in the end, you find yourself in a situation where you go back to a subject at a demonstration, the frame of the shooting, set the aperture value and capture the image and know that you nailed the exposure even if the whole system is manual.

  There are a lot of tutorials on the use of the manual of flash and inexpensive triggers to the Strobist blog (strobist.blogspot.com).

  I use the Canon system.  I use the Canon ST-E3-RT trigger a few flashes 600EX-RT.  The system is rock solid... it always works.

• Printing from Canon's EOS from the SD card

  OK, so I'm wondering if I need a Canon printer to print images from a Canon EOS camera using the Sd Card directly from the camera to the printer. Yes, I will be shooting in RAW.

  If you have a PictBridge compatible camera and printer, this will work. Should not be a Canon PictBridge printer.

  

• I have problems to import photos from the Canon EOS 70 d in Lightroom on a macbook pro

  When I try to import photos from my Canon EOS70D in Lightroom, first I get "Preview not available for this file" for all files on the camera. If I check a few photos to import Lightroom said then that's important but the pictures never import and eventually I have to cancel the import. I tried to import a picture and this same thing is happening.

  I don't think that is the cable or the camera that I can import into iPhoto from the camera using the same cable.

  All advice appreciated.

  It's ok thank you, I found the problem. I have to let the camera connected to the laptop for a while. Finally, all files have thumbnails, and then I can import them. I tried before import them too quickly.

• Get files from the Image of the T3i via USB

  I am currently using an old EOS Digital Rebel with a 18-55mm lens, which I use for photography of product (to the site).  The company is more and more so I take lots of photos, and it's getting heavy to keep the withdrawal of the CF card and load into the PC.  I want to move to a configuration that does not need a card to move between the camera and the PC - or anything with a USB port or wireless.  Any who can verify that the T3i works the way I think - I'll run a USB cable from the camera to the PC and I can get the pictures from your camera easily, such as access to a hard drive?  Or I'm wrong about this?  I need a USB cable which is 10' long or so, that too, I think not is a problem, but it would be good to hear that someone else is using it in this way and it works.

  I'm also looking for a recommendation of the lens, as I'll probably buy the body only instead of getting another 18-55 mm.  I would like something with a little more possibility of zoom (to get a little tighter), and it would be good to have a macro capability.  Any suggestions on a Canon lens?

  Last question - I would like to have a bigger screen connected to the camera, to get a bigger view of what I'm shooting or just being shot while still in the camera.  I can do it with a T3i?

  Thank you

  A T3i will do anything you ask.  BTW, it does not use a CF card; It uses SD cards.

  It will ship with a short USB cable but you can get "powered" USB cable 75 feet long or more.

  You can attach the T3i a laptop with Lightroom.

  Best buy in a Canon lens is EF 24-105mm f4 L.  No lens will Excel in all possible situations. Thus, the beauty of a DSLR like you can taylor the lens to use. But it will come very close.

• RAW files from my EOS T3i. My computer is Windows 7-64 bit.

  I want to use the Raw files from my EOS Rebel T3i. When I went to load the Canon driver to convert this it turns out there is no driver for my computer operaing system. I have a fairly normal computer with Windows 7-64 bit. They do support the 33 bit processing. There seems to be no support for Windows 8. Now what? Is there a driver outside sonversion, should I use instead? It's will be supported for Windows 8 in the near future?

  zetscha wrote:

  I want to use the Raw files from my EOS Rebel T3i. When I went to load the Canon driver to convert this it turns out there is no driver for my computer operaing system. I have a fairly normal computer with Windows 7-64 bit. They do support the 33 bit processing. There seems to be no support for Windows 8. Now what? Is there a driver outside sonversion, should I use instead? It's will be supported for Windows 8 in the near future?

  Default method of Windows 7 to display RAW files is to use the Canon RAW Codec, a utility that must be installed on the computer and that has (or had, I mean, I knew) No 64-bit version. For 64-bit Windows 7 cannot display files RAW except via a program, usually a photo editor, specified by the user.

  Windows 8 has its own conversion utility, the Microsoft Codec, which allows it to display different suppliers, including the Canon RAW files. The Microsoft Codec works on 32-bit versions and 64-bit of Windows 8. While the Microsoft Codec is used by default to display RAW images, the user can replace it with a photo editor, just like in Windows 7.

  None of this applies to the actual editing of RAW files. Many (most?) photo editors will run in 32-bit versions and 64-bit Windows 7 and Windows 8. An exception is the version 4 of Digital Photo Professional, which runs only under the 64-bit versions of operating systems.

• I have a problem with my canon cam works only not with the eos unility now

  OK I use to connect my cam and it worked fine until the last update and now it has stopped working, I've been on with cannon and put to update the software and they say it's a problem with vista 64, do not leave the work of software he will work with the computer, but not the eos utility they told me to remove the key from the vid but donty know how

  Monday, January 31, 2011, 20:35:31 + 0000, tank5700 wrote:

  OK I use to plug my cam and it worked fine until the last update and now it has stopped working, I've been on with cannon and put to update the software, and they say it's a problem with vista 64, not to let the work of software it will work with your computer
  but not the eos utility they told me to remove the key from the vid but donty know how

  You ever need connect your device directly. Buy a card reader for
  the type of flash card your camera uses (they are cheap).
  Place the flash card and plug it into a USB port.

  Personally, I prefer to do it this way. It is easier and does not use
  the camera battery. I have both these card readers - one I keep on
  my desk, close my desktop computer and another that I keep in my
  Bag for laptop to use when traveling.

  Ken Blake, Microsoft MVP

• Opening of the EOS 5 d Mark II is CS4?

  I wonder if someone could help me please. I would buy photoshop CS4 for my husband for his birthday (just a couple of weeks a way), but I don't know if it's the right thing or not. My husband has just upgraded his camera (of an EOS 5 d to an EOS 5 d Mark II), he never had a problem at the opening of the EOS 5 d images in photoshop cs3, but cannot open the EOS 5 d images Mark II. I read that he needs of camera raw 5, but it is only compatible with cs4. Is this true? What he wants to do, it of take a picture with his camera and then open the raw file in photoshop without loss of quality at all (I guess that means keep as a psd?). Cs4 that will?

  Sorry if I ask a lot of questions but I really want to get the right thing for him.

  Thanks in advance.

  CS4 will certainly open the pictures and the Camera RAW are associated plugin is a big upgrade from CS3. But your husband can download the free DNG Converter, convert its new Mark II RAW files using that and then open them in CS3.

  I hope you don't take this the wrong sense but on you for the purchase of your husband for his b - day software. It's super hot. I'm jealous.

  http://www.Adobe.com/products/DNG/

• error message when try to sync the iPhone, "invalid response from the device?

  What can I do when I receive this error message when you try to sync to my iPhone 5 s - "invalid response from the device?

  -What are your 5 updating to 10.0.2 iOS iPhone? If this is the case, you must have the latest version of iTunes on your computer, which is required for Mac OS X 10.9.5 12.5.1, or above. To meet these specifications will be receiving this error.

• Remove data from the HD Server?

  I've recently updated my OS to 10.12 Sierra and went to install Server.app. However, when trying to install Mac OS Server, I received the following message:

  "This the server version does not support upgrading the server from data on this volume. To upgrade your database server, you need to install an older version of the server and OS X."

  ***? In what universe would be an acceptable solution? Now, the fact is that I probably had installed Server.app before on a very old version of Mac OS (not sure which) and just never bothered to upgrade during the last major revision of OS X or more.

  What that is, how can I get rid of these old "data server" so I can install a new copy? Thank you.

  Wondering how to remove the data from the server that you had before the upgrade to Sierra? If so, delete the folder/Library/Server and the.app to / applications. Then go to the App Store and buy the latest version of the server. I'm guessing that your last purchase server had Yosemite and that's why try to install the server to the App Store / Shopping does not work. I did purchase the server from Yosemite.

• Continues to receive updates beta of MAC OS x in the App Store even if I reconnect my mac from the public beta program

  Hello

  I'm still getting updates beta of MAC OS x in the App Store even if I reconnect my mac from the public beta program. The option to receive these updates beta is no longer available in my preferences system, as shown here:

  https://www.igeeksblog.com/stop-OS-x-beta-software-update-notifications-in-Mac-a pp-store.

  Any suggestions?

  Thank you

  Restart your Mac, then see if these updates appear again.

• iTunes invalid response from the device

  Thus, since updating my iPhone 6 to IOS10, I have been unable to sync with my mac. When I plug my phone I get the message of athis on my mac...

  iTunes could not connect to the iPhone "iPhone", because an invalid response was received from the device.

  I click OK

  I look at my phone it asks if I want to trust this computer. I click Yes. Nothing.

  So I wait. Nothing. I disconnect and try again. Same thing. I tried all the USB ports on my mac. Same thing.

  Search the forums here, looks like a common phenomenon when connecting to a PC, but not a mac.

  Connection to a Mac Pro Tower

  10.7.5

  iPhone 6

  Devices running iOS 10 require the latest version of iTunes, which requires OS X 10.9.5 or more. It's time to upgrade.

• install apps from the store / checked / others?

  Hi all

  After the successful sierra upgrade remains a question...

  In Control Panel / common I could select (capitan) between 'install apps from the store', '... certified developers', '... from other

  On the Sierra, I only have the options "... the store," '... of certified developers

  The last option "... others" was gone.

  Can this last option 'install applications from others' be re-activated?

  I had a couple of applications that require one '... other What will happen in the future when there is the need to reinstall?

  Greetings from the Germany

  Chris

  This is a "feature". In Sys Prefs, you can choose between the store and known to the developers. You can always choose to open a pkg app or an unknown dev by ctrl-click Installer, and then by selecting open from the menu. You will get a dialog with an option to open the application. Once this is done, your Mac will approve the app.

  It is possible to completely disable a guard, but this is not recommended. Here's how: http://www.amsys.co.uk/2016/09/disable-gatekeeper-macos-sierra/

• Can I recover my phone numbers of my Iphone 4 from the Cloud

  Can I recover my phone numbers of my Iphone 4 from the Cloud?

  Do you mean your contacts?

  Go to icloud.com and see if your contacts are there.  If so, you can recover.

• Audio controls from the control center was lost in iOS10?

  Updated reluctantly iOS 10 and so far, the biggest annoyance is that my playback controls for some audio I play (audiobook of iBooks, podcasts with downcast, stream radio KPCC app) disappeared from the center of control... any way to recover?

  Quick scan power button or mute with the least amount of taps & shots is important when you want to respond to someone knocking on a door, or on the land line call, etc., and have hit to swipe several apps to reach the audio application when you were in another is an unnecessary extra step.

  Is there a way to get this back that I missed?

  In iOS 10, audio controls have been moved to a second page in the control center and are accessible by sliding left within the control center.