help choose the correct color settings

Similar Questions

• Please help with the correct color settings

  I use ID CC depending on which we, my printers want my final PDF either as PDF/x-1a (I know it does with regard to Flattening) or PDF/x-4.

  I need all color images for close to CMYK, no matter what they were when placed. I need all 100 %K black to stay like this and not to convert an intense black.

  Currently, my document color settings are:

  Parameters: general use of 2 North America

  Workspaces:

  RGB: sRGB IE61966 - 2.1

  CMYK U.S. Web Coated (SWOP) v2

  Color management policies:

  RGB: Preserve embedded profiles

  CMYK: Preserve numbers (ignore linked profiles)

  Conversion options:

  Engine: Adobe (ACE)

  Intent: Relative Colorimetry

  I use the default settings for PDF/x-1's or PDF/x-4 (most have the ink Manager to convert all tasks to deal with) and and always receive a yellow warning with the following in general warning triangle:

  The preset specifies source profiles that do not match the current color settings file. Profiles specified by the color settings file will be used.

  What should I check in my document color settings to avoid this error message (the resulting files do appear to be OK for what I need, I want to just make sure that I put it just in case this error). Of course, other thoughts are always appreciated also.

  What should my document color settings also if the final document will be black and white (in grayscale) and contains only data on the black plate?

  Sorry to contradict the Peter a bit here, but X - 4 allows to RGB, rather than to specify it, so you can have your PDF by setting 'Convert to Destination (preserve numbers)' with an appropriate destination CMYK profile and still conform to the standard X-4.

  That's what I'm doing here, because I prefer the Adobe CMM performs the conversion.

• The eyedropper tool is unable to choose the correct colors.

  

  Hello, I am facing a strange problem with the eyedropper tool.

  The background is a gradient mesh (ignore the cross). I used the eyedropper tool (shift-click/normal-click both gave the same result) on the bottom and he gave me a strange result. As you can see, the background is blue - to-black gradation, but the color scheme is green-ish of nowhere.

  How can I solve this?

  It is only a problem with gradients as a gradient is an algorithm (formula) where all the colors are only those that are defined with the steps of color on the gradient tool (Control Panel). Intermediate colors are generated on the fly in the color space of the final output, which in this case is the color RGB (profile) of your monitor space. As a work around for what you can develop the gradient of steps or same rasterize is going to happen in the colorspace of the document and this will make all the color values actually described one by one in the illustrator vector object file or image raster and then the pipette will be able to take them as expected.

  A simple example that illustrates this: in a CMYK document, create a gradient with two stops in grayscale by 100% and 99%. then shift clicking on this slope will not come an expected color but if you spend the gradient in two steps, you'll get two items at 99% and 100%.

• How to set the correct color profile

  From the outset: I am not an expert in this area...

  When you look at on the Internet on the management of color, color profiles, I often get a lot of text and generally intended to the "experts."

  Actually I am not so interested in all the technical details. I'm looking for rather a simple statement about how 'set' a default color profile.

  I don't know how my .icc profiles to select from...

  Material:

  Printer: Epson WorkForce Pro WF-5620 (with its color profiles)

  Monitor: HP DreamColor Z27x

  Photoshop CS6

  Windows 10 x 64

  At the launch of my pc, the monitor shows that it is set to AdobeRGB.

  Questions:

  (1) when I browse using Windows Explorer simple .png files (png with no EXIF data files, say, screenshots, or images on the Internet) and drag them in Photoshop, they are much darker and I need to make an adjustment. Which shows the Windows Explorer is about right, in Photoshop, they are much too dark.

  (2) when, after having created a PSD in Photoshop and everything seems correct, print results are bad, they are too light and I need to try to waste his time with profiles or almost to try to do things.

  Below some screenshots:

  

  =

  

  =

  

  ==

  

  =

  Anyone could pleasssee... to help and give me some advice on how to implement?

  i.e. the profiles to choose where so the results on the screen are the same as that of the print.

  again, I am not an expert and I do not wish to become a :-)

  There are so many profiles to select from, I don't know...

  Thank you!

  =

  Mylenium says:

  Simple answer: none of this is important if your system is not actually calibrated. You can set the default factory profiles all day and wear yourself out, and they will always be wrong.

  Bit of a negative attitude, wouldn't you say?

  It is not as complicated as many will have it. You think, always, in terms of source and a destination profile. You still need two profiles, and each should be a precise description of the color space that it represents.

  So, what is your source? This is your file. Fine. Adobe RGB, do, don't mess with it. Do not confuse the profile document and monitor! You need both.

  Then you have two destinations, the monitor and the printer. Each profile a detailed description. The monitor profile is implemented at the level of the system (or your Stallion will do), and Photoshop will find and use it to display the image. Again, it is a source of right > conversion of destination. Once the monitor profile is set up, no further user intervention is required.

  Then, the printer. Here you have different profiles for different media, and there is no default. You must choose the correct profile for the paper that you are using in the Photoshop print dialog box. Here you will need to also make sure that Photoshop manages colors, and then you must go to the printer driver and make sure that the printer color management is turned off. Choose the right paper here, since it controls the total amount of ink.

  That's all. If all profiles are present and correct, display and printing should now match. If you want to go further, you can set your monitor calibration target so they correspond to the document that you print on - IOW put the point of the white screen then that it is a Visual match to the white of the paper and monitor black so it corresponds to the density of the ink max for the paper.

• Is it possible to know if my screen colors to the correct color temperature

  Is it possible to know if my Macbook Pro display colors to the correct color temperature?

  When I got it, it seemed hot, so I adjusted... .but how do I know if it is now right?

  Hello there, Chris.

  It seems you are trying to determine how much to calibrate the screen on your MacBook Pro. The following Knowledge Base article provides a few strides and the link to do this in the latest version of Mac OS x:

  OS X El Capitan: calibrate your screen

  The colors on your screen can be changed by many factors, such as ambient light, the position and the angle of the screen and the age of the screen. To take these changes into account, you can set your display to show accurate color using calibrator Assistant monitor.

  Calibrate it regularly to ensure accurate color.

  1. Choose the Apple menu > System Preferences, click view, and then click color.
  2. Click calibrator Calibrate.Display wizard guide you through calibrating your monitor, then creates a calibrated color profile. When the display profile is ready, it is automatically assigned in the color profile of your screen.

  Some screens have additional built-in color calibration and precision features. For more information, see the documentation that came with your monitor.

  Set the color profile of your screen

  If your screen does not look right

• In FCP 5 when I have the correct color I lose resolutiion

  So when I have the correct color in FCP5, I lose resolution. Is there a way I can get it back?

  Also with the same FCP 5. I can deal with video from a camera of black magic? How it is captured from an external hard drive? What is the process to implement FCP for editing?

  Peter MovieMaker says:

  So when I have the correct color in FCP5, I lose resolution. Is there a way I can get it back?

  How do you do the color correction?

  Make you the correction of the colors on the timeline?

  If you lose, your sequence settings are defined to render at 100% resolution?

  

  Peter MovieMaker says:

  I can deal with video from a camera of black magic? How it is captured from an external hard drive? What is the process to implement FCP for editing?

  The method to use depends, I think, what exact version of FCP5 you.

  If you go into the settings sequence and on the general tab pane, click the compressor settings drop-down menu, you can see that apple Pro Res listed as a choice?

  Basically, you want to convert the files of black magic in a format that is change friendly to your FCP5 software. Once converted, you import these files converted in your editing.

  MtD

• Fonts do not print the correct colors from Illustrator or Acrobat

  I create in Illustrator. I put the nuances that I use for all my designs to be used as I have clients who have physical impressions of these swatches. The problem is, I can change the color of the work and the design of the elements in the file and it will print the correct color, but when you use the same exact shade on the police, it does not and it gives me a shadow of what is the color, while the design of the elements in the same file (traits (, forms, etc.) print the right shade. This occurs when you print from the two Illustrator and PDF of Acrobat format. I tried to create a new doc and type the text, but the tone still does not. I used to be able to print from Illustrator and the problem was solved, but now suddenly it does not work in an application. I wish to print all in PDF format, but I was never able to get the correct color print in this way. Also, I have tested on several fonts and I get the same problem.

  Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

  Does make a difference if briefly explain you the text before you save it as a pdf.

  ' Type > Ridge contours

• Choose the foreground color

  If I click and hold "Option" to activate (pipette) sample color and choose a foreground color in the image, I've always had the color of background instead.

  I went through the Menu of keyboard shortcuts, discovered there is a set 'by default (modified)' I never created. So I trashed it and selected the game 'by default. "

  Example of color tool has worked for awhile, but after a few question returned (together, it's always "Default").

  I can't change the Menu either, because if I try to customize "Foreground color" does not recognize "Alt" (Option) as a key.

  I went into preferences/general and in the "Color Picker" menu, I selected "Apple" (instead of "Adobe").

  This seems to solve the problem, while now 'Option' with the Brush tool I could select the foreground color.

  But it lasted a few minutes, after that (even if I don't touch it), once again the color picker used the background instead of foreground color.

  And if I choose the eyedropper tool in the toolbar, the problem is the same: I can not select the foreground of the image color. I can only choose the background color and then before you start painting.

  This isn't too much of a workflow.

  Pretty confusing and annoying.

  Any help would be appreciated.

  Franz

  iMac Intel 24 "(European original keyboard)

  OSX Lion 10.7.5

  Wacom Bamboo tablet

  Hello, Franz71! This gives a shot.

  Open the color Panel by going on window > color.

  Once it is open, make sure that the sample of foreground (decoder) is "highlighted". You should see a border around it. Currently, you can see the border around the undertone (background).

  

  That may solve your problem.

• printer Lexmark Pro 200. Does not print the correct colors. I restarted my computer and the printer is off but get the same result.

  Printer Lexmark Pro 200.  Does not print the correct colors. I restarted my computer and the printer is off but get the same result.

  Hello

  • What were the changes made before the problem occurred?

  You try to run this fix and check.

  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows7/open-the-printer-Troubleshooter

  If above does not work, try contacting Lexmark support for assistance.

  http://www1.Lexmark.com/en_US/global-services/customer-support-services/index.shtml

• What is the best 'color settings' for documents 4 colors Photoshop 9.0 for eventual printing on a printer? Thanx

  What is the best 'color settings' for documents 4 colors Photoshop 9.0 for eventual printing on a printer? Thank you, Scott

  The 'best' color settings are profile and end points specified by your lithographer. You can see that the work will be produced in CMYK mode, it can specify a RGB. (One of the reasons why it might ask for an RGB file and perform the conversion itself is so that it can prevent its competitors its CMYK settings that apply to the GCR, generation of black [ramp] and limit of total ink regarding specific paper.) Its recommendation may also vary depending on your choice of paper and the surface of the paper. If the choice of the particular lithographer cannot be done at this time, it is generally acceptable to provide the Adobe RGB file with the default settings of Photoshop.

• My mind is wiped out. I'll put up pages in Photoshop 9.0 to be then placed in InDesign 4.0 for professional printing. Can you help me configure the proper color settings, and what PDF preset to use. And output parameters, etc. Thanx.

  My mind is wiped out. I'll implement the color pages in Photoshop 9.0 to be then placed in InDesign 4.0 for commercial printing in book form. Can you help me with the settings of color in Photoshop, that is to incorporate the color profile; convert in space work, Adobe RGB, etc. and which PDF preset to use, i.e. printing, PDF / X - 1 or 3, etc. Also, what I have to select the output settings such as the conversion of colors with the Destination or the printer deals with that. I know I asked a lot, so thanks in advance for any input or advice.

  Best regards, ScottyB34

  What are the settings of your printer wants? Some may deal with sRGB some want Adobe RGB Ctrl/Cmd-Shift-k in Photoshop, then choose North Amercian prepress 2

  He'll take care of the tags for you, or if sRGB is important, Norh American General Purpose 2.

  Here is a summary of the settings PDF and their meaning:

  When you are ready to create a PDF file from an application such as Illustrator or InDesign Adobe, we give you a list of the predefined PDF settings from which to choose. Well how do you decide which is the right choice? Well, let me explain what they do.

  Let's start with the smallest file size and the name of the type of the story. It is compatible with Acrobat 6, which means that anyone who has Reader or Acrobat 6 or above will be able to open the file. Now it converts everything in sRGB color which is a common space for color monitor.

  All RGB is truncated to sRGB, CMYK and spot colors also. So that means if you have a job to print, you can see some color shifts in this outgoing PDF. You must decide whether it is acceptable. He can't stand live transparency, not flattened. It downsize image content to 100 pixels per inch and this is part of how she made a reduced file size. It also uses aggressive JPEG compression of poor quality on the content of the image. So, you can see some of these rectangular JPEG artifacts.

  But it is how it gives you a reduced file size, and results are appropriate to be posted online or attached to an email.

  High quality printing has compatibility with Acrobat 5 and above. There is no color conversion. RGB RGB stays, rest spot, stays of CMYK CMYK spot and it supports live, not flattened transparency. It does not perform some downsampling to 300 pixels per inch. So, for example, if you placed an image which was 300 ppi and then set to scale up to 50 percent there actually a res then 600 pixels per inch.

  Well, this process would take half out these pixels. Therefore, it can create larger files but that makes it suitable for in the House of printing or sending Let's say a remote office if they want to print we tell cells leaves, or brochures, or something like. It's beautiful out on an internal printer.

  Print quality and high quality printing have similar names, so this may be a bit confusing, but print quality has compatibility with Acrobat 5 or higher. It converts the content of RGB to CMYK destination values according to what you specify as the destination.

  It is usually SWOP, S-W-O-p. It supports live, not flattened transparency. It performs the subsampling bicubic to 300 pixels per inch and because that it keeps at least 300 pixels per inch, which means that it can create some large files, but it is suitable for professional printing.

  Then we start to get into the presets named 'X '. 'X' is now for Exchange. They agree on specifications and the idea is to have a set of specifications if a PDF file is compliant to these specifications, we know it's going to be printable.

  We know that imaging devices are going to treat them properly. So this goes back to 2001, and which can seem a bit old, but bear with me. PDF/X-1 has a compatibility with Acrobat 4. I know, it sounds old. It converts RGB to CMYK content, it keeps the content of good tones. It flattens transparency. Downsize it at 300 pixels per inch. It can large enough crat files if you have large size images in your project and that it is suitable for professional printing.

  The idea behind X-1 is if you send a PDF file to an unknown printer, you do not know what are their capabilities, you send abroad, it will be able to be photographed on any device. No matter the age, it is, they can print. Over the years, the concepts of Exchange became more sophisticated the workflow and devices become more sophisticated.

  SP PDF / X-3: 2002, remains compatible with Acrobat 4 and that means that it flattens transparency, but it does not perform any color conversion.

  This means that it maintains RGB content, place remains in place, rest of CMYK CMYK. He still performed bicubic downsampling at 300 pixels per inch, and therefore, it can create large files. But this is suitable for commercial printing, if the printer signals you that it is present RGB content is correct.

  PDF / X-4: 2008 is compatible with Acrobat 7 and later. See, we're getting more modern. No color conversion. RGB RGB stays, stays CMYK CMYK, spot rest spot and it supports live, not flattened transparency.

  He still performs bicubic downsampling. Therefore, it can create large files because it maintains the pieces of the image to 300 pixels per inch or higher and it is suitable for commercial printing, as long as the printer tells you that RGB content is not serious and dynamic transparency is acceptable. Some older workflow does not support dynamic transparency, or they treat well, and that's why always ask. It is a special case in Illustrator, something called default Illustrator. Its compatibility is Acrobat 6 or higher.

  It does not perform the color conversion, everything continues like this. It supports transparency live, not flattened, and it also contains the original, editable Illustrator file in the PDF file. It preserves layers and it may be return, can be reopened safely in Illustrator and it's really the only PDF format you can do with safely. But it can create larger files, because you sort of two files for the price of one, they sometimes get huge.

  So what predefined PDF is Right For You? Well, if you want to send for printing, the first thing you should do is to ask your printer how they want the created PDF.

  They should be able to give you the plug for the creation of the PDF file. They may be able to give you job options files you can simply import and use as your preset target. But if it's a stranger the printer or the printer for some reason any said, well, I don't know, just make a PDF and this happens, well, choose the lowest common denominator to the PDF/X-1 test. Anyone can image that. If it is a more modern printer and up to date, especially if you send it to someone who uses digital presses, PDF/X-4 should be safe.

  I always go back to point one, ask the printer. If you send it as an attachment or you're going to post online, well, smaller size of file is a pretty clear choice. But remember this, you can start with one of these predefined parameters, and you can always edit it to customize your specific needs. So get to know the presets, understand the destiny of the PDF you create, and then make the best PDF that you can.

• Management of the print color settings

  I've never had no problem printing from Photoshop on my Macbook Air, until I think I've accidentally pressed some keys on my keyboard which was obviously shortcuts.

  Now, whenever I try to print - the first image attached appears, as it usually happens with normal printing pre box, where you can choose the paper size, layout, color etc etc.

  
  

  I visited the print settings dialog box and everything seemed normal.

  I also went in Edition > settings of colors... but it was a bit out of my League that I don't know anything about the print & color management settings.

  
  

  If this is useful - I've also attached a screenshot of my current color settings.

  
  

  Can someone help me pleaseee - it drives me crazy!

  
  

  Thanks in advance!
  

  

  It is the normal print Photoshop dialog box. This must always come first. Access you the settings of the printer driver by clicking 'Print Settings '. It is also quite normal.

  Do not take into account the color settings dialog box, it is not relevant here.

  BTW, having the printer manage color is a somewhat safe setting, but you can usually get better results by letting Photoshop manage color and make the conversion to the desired printing profile. Then you will need to choose the right profile manually, and also make sure that the printer driver is set to the correct paper type. And the printer to support.

  In addition, the document profile is listed as "Display". This is the profile of Mac OS X will assign to the screenshots, but it is generally not a good idea to use the display as a document profile profile (both are different things and have different goals). Best to convert it to a standard such as sRGB profile if you intend to use the file to something else.

• Allow the user to choose the background color of dialogue/pallet box

  Hi all

  So, basically, I'm trying to give the user the ability to customize a toolbar, I developed for work by allowing them to choose their own color. I don't want to have to keep jumping into the script whenever someone wants a different color then thought it would be an additional pleasure.

  I looked and found the code for a color picker and suitable for what I want, but being a complete noob, I

  (a) clearly hurts because it does not work and

  (b) there is probably a better way to do it.

  You will see below my script for a fake dialog window.

  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  var box = new Window("dialog", "Just Digital Toolbar");  
    
  box.panel1 = box.add('panel', undefined);  
  box.panel1.group = box.panel1.add('group', undefined );  
  box.panel1.group.orientation='row';  
    
  box.panel1.group.finalBtn = box.panel1.group.add('button',undefined, "Dummy 1", {name:'dummy1'});  
  box.panel1.group.binderBtn = box.panel1.group.add('button',undefined, "Dummy 2", {name:'dummy2'});
  box.panel1.group.bocBtn = box.panel1.group.add('button',undefined, "Dummy 3", {name:'dummy3'});
  
  
  box.panel2 = box.add('panel', undefined);  
  box.panel2.group = box.panel2.add('group', undefined, );  
  box.panel2.group.orientation='row';  
    
  box.panel2.group.colourPickBtn = box.panel2.group.add('button',undefined, "Colour Picker", {name:'colourPick'});
  box.panel2.group.closeBtn = box.panel2.group.add('button',undefined, "Close", {name:'close'});
  
  
  box.location = [1850, 40];
  
  
  box.panel2.group.colourPickBtn.onClick = function(){  
      
  var hexToRGB = function(hex) {
    var r = hex >> 16;
    var g = hex >> 8 & 0xFF;
    var b = hex & 0xFF;
    return [r, g, b];
  };
  
  var color_decimal = $.colorPicker();
  $.writeln(color_decimal);
  
  var color_hexadecimal = color_decimal.toString(16);
  $.writeln(color_hexadecimal);
  
  var color_rgb = hexToRGB(parseInt(color_hexadecimal, 16));
  $.writeln(color_rgb);
  
  var color_that_ae_add_solid_understands = [color_rgb[0] / 255, color_rgb[1] / 255, color_rgb[2] / 255];
  $.writeln(color_that_ae_add_solid_understands);
  
  box.graphics.backgroundColor = color_rgb;
  }
  
  //===================TEMP CLOSE FUNCTION=====================//
  box.panel2.group.closeBtn.onClick = function(){  
    box.close();
  }
  //===================TEMP CLOSE FUNCTION END=====================//
  
  box.show ();
  

  The piece of code I posted was intended to replace box.graphics.backgroundColor = color_rgb;

  Full code (without the .writeln of $):

  function hexToRGB(hex) {
      var r = hex >> 16;
      var g = hex >> 8 & 0xFF;
      var b = hex & 0xFF;
      return [r, g, b];
      };
  
  var box = new Window("palette", "Just Digital Toolbar");    
  
  box.panel1 = box.add('panel', undefined);
  box.panel1.group = box.panel1.add('group', undefined );
  box.panel1.group.orientation='row';    
  
  box.panel1.group.finalBtn = box.panel1.group.add('button',undefined, "Dummy 1", {name:'dummy1'});
  box.panel1.group.binderBtn = box.panel1.group.add('button',undefined, "Dummy 2", {name:'dummy2'});
  box.panel1.group.bocBtn = box.panel1.group.add('button',undefined, "Dummy 3", {name:'dummy3'});  
  
  box.panel2 = box.add('panel', undefined);
  box.panel2.group = box.panel2.add('group', undefined, );
  box.panel2.group.orientation='row';    
  
  box.panel2.group.colourPickBtn = box.panel2.group.add('button',undefined, "Colour Picker", {name:'colourPick'});
  box.panel2.group.closeBtn = box.panel2.group.add('button',undefined, "Close", {name:'close'});  
  
  box.location = [1850, 40];  
  
  box.panel2.group.colourPickBtn.onClick = function(){
      var g = box.graphics;
      var color_decimal = $.colorPicker();
      if (color_decimal>=0){
          var color_hexadecimal = color_decimal.toString(16);
          var color_rgb = hexToRGB(parseInt(color_hexadecimal, 16));
          var color_that_ae_add_solid_understands = [color_rgb[0] / 255, color_rgb[1] / 255, color_rgb[2] / 255];    
  
          g.backgroundColor = g.newBrush(g.BrushType.SOLID_COLOR, color_that_ae_add_solid_understands);
          };
      }  
  
  //===================TEMP CLOSE FUNCTION=====================//
  box.panel2.group.closeBtn.onClick = function(){
    box.close();
  }
  //===================TEMP CLOSE FUNCTION END=====================//  
  
  box.show ();
  

  Xavier

• Choose the RGB color in Illustrator (swatches and sliders are in CMYK mode)

  I do a simple model of cutting laser. Cutting laser acts as a printer and you choose the power, speed, etc. for each color in the document. I want to just cut, so I only lines red RGB 0.001 pt thickness. Or at least that was the plan. One of the forms in my model has come out a different red (the shades were CMYK despite the document color in RGB mode). I would like to now select all the paths in the document and make them all red RGB. However, when I open the color Panel from the dock the sliders are CMYK, once it comes despite the document color in RGB mode:

  

  How can I change all paths be red RGB?

  How can I stop Illustrator offering me color chart and options of CMYK and RGB offering instead?

  Post edited by: Dumble_dad adding the missing words

  Dumble-dad,

  I changed the RGB Panel, but now it is only to offer me the K cursor!

  If you have checked RGB and grayscale obtained, there must be something wrong, most likely in your preferences.

  Here is a list of things to try when strikes of strangeness (you may have tried / some of them already) and see if that helps you (the following is a general list of things, you can try when the question is not in a file specific; 3) and 4) specifically may be corrupted preferences):

  (1) close Illy and open again.

  (2) restart the computer (you can do that up to 3 times);

  (3) close Illy and press Ctrl + Alt + Shift / Cmd + Option + shift during startup (easy, but irreversible);

  4) to move the folder with closed Illy (more tedious but also more thorough and reversible);

  ((5) browse and try the relevant among the other options (point 7) is a list of the usual suspects among other applications which can disturb and confuse Illy);

  Even worse, you can:

  (6) uninstall, run the cleanup tool if you have CS3, CS4, CS5, CS6 and reinstall.

  http://www.Adobe.com/support/contact/cscleanertool.html

• How to choose the right project settings?

  I am new in taking video and modifying them. I bought a Sanyo Xacti HD camcorder and a lot of clips in my last trip. The clips are transferred to my count and have the format. Depth of MP4 1280 - 720 1280 and 29.97 frames per second.

  I want to create after having been released on DVD I can show on my TV 16:9 (PAL Netherlands)

  When I create a new project, I choose the seetings and I don't really know how to choose!

  Should what project settings I choose in the settings I see that 30 fps under NTSC systems. Is there somewhere a general explanation how?

  Help will be very appreciated!

  Greetings Willem

  Before the NTSC in PAL, I think that there are other major considerations.

  1. you save the 16:9 720 p 30 1280 x 720 at 30 frames per second, using the MPEG-AVC/H.264 codec). Seems to me you are dealing with what they call "AVCHD Lite". If so, there are major problems of basic editing in first Elements 7. See the FAQ of Steve Grisetti

  http://forums.Adobe.com/thread/454585?TSTART=0

  2. your comments suggest that you want to create the widescree of DVD-VIDEO (16:9) of your timeline.

  3. so, first and foremost, I would determine if you can successfully bring your video in Elements 7 first and export the DVD-VIDEO in NTSC system, before thinking on the conversion of a video NTSC a PAL end product.

  4. as a general rule, you select the preset of the project (new project dialog box) to match the properties of your video. Once done this will not stop you changing predefined export later. In the case of your NTSC by Sanyo 720p30 video, I suggest the project (new project dialogue box) = NTSC HDV HDV 720p30 preset. Think the project defined by default as a template from which you can edit your video. Although this 720 p is a variant of AVCHD, I would suggest the HDV category since there is no preset under AVCHD 720 p. Note that the descriptions on the right which you have set the preset.

  5. in Share/disc/disc, in the dialog box burn, and then select the preset: NTSC_Widecreen_Dolby DVD. If it's all completed successfully, then we can talk about conversion of NTSC 1280 x 720 16:9 for a DVD VIDEO PAL (720 x 576 25 fps with a flag from 16:9 to stretch the video on screen after the encoding).

  6. you can find the following link helpful:

  http://www.Camcorderinfo.com/content/article_converting_ntsc_pal.htm

  RTA