IMAQdx manual exposure setting is malfunctioning

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  On my new SX520 Canon, I can't find a way to exposure compensation or even a simple backlight control. As I do much photography at the beach, backlight compensation is necessary.

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  Hi mannfilm!

  Thanks for posting.

  I would like to ask a questions in order to get a better understanding of the issue and what can be the cause of this.

  1. When you look at distance window, the letter M appears indicating manual exposure is defined?
  2. What exposure values change?
  3. You have activated exposure Simulation?
  4. The resulting image appears different from the image you see in the window?

  If it is a time sensitive matter, additional support options are available to contact us.

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  Hi willbrecheen!

  Welcome to the community of Sony Forums.

  Set your camera A550 (M) manual exposure mode on the dial if you are shooting with a manual lens and an adapter. You should be able to shoot with your configuration.

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  Click on the thumbs-up Bravo !

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• How to read data from 16-bit unsigned IMAQdx?

  I was using my firewire camera to take pictures in unsigned 16-bit grayscale and processing of these data in matlab. However, the data becomes incorrect when the integration time of the camera is great. I discovered that the reasons are: 1, IMAQdx decoded data monochrome 16-bit signed 16-bit, which returns a negative value if the amplitude of each pixel is greater than 32768.  2, IMAQdx automatically adds a constant, which is equal to the amplitude of the largest negative value pixel, to all the pixel values, to change the smallest value to zero, but this process ruin the rest of my data and makes them almost irreversible.  I think the only method could solve this problem is to try to do in labview read image form of unsigned data, but I don't know if it's possible, because it is not optional in IMAQdx manual.

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  FireWire (especially earlier on) had some ambiguities on the endianness, signed-ness and depth of the pixel data that is returned. IMAQdx tries to take the best prognosis for 16-bit data using specific registers defined by the IIDC and other information she can deduct on the camera. However, sometimes these assumptions are incorrect. If you go to the acquiring of your camera attributes tab in MAX, you should be able to replace all these parameters correspond to what the camera expects its data should be interpreted.

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• Manual mode is fuzzy until after the autofocus mode

  I recently bought a refurbished T5. I learned how to use manual mode, and I understand very well now (at least I think). However, I was a problem. I'm going to start shooting in manual mode (lens and body) and everything will be blurred - the image in the viewfinder that I take the picture and the resulting image. I'll then go in autofocus mode, and the image will have very similar parameters and get the Crystal. I'll then go back to manual mode with the same settings as I had the last time I was in manual mode, and the image is now perfectly clear as well through the viewfinder and the resulting image. If I have the correct settings, why not the picture will be clear the first time around? I'm doing something wrong or is there something wrong with the camera itself? Thanks in advance for any help!

  I have included some images to help:

  So I turn on my camera, the lens configuration and body in manual mode and take this picture. It is 1/80, f 5.6 and (self) ISO 2500.

  

  Then I go my goal and my auto body and get this picture. It is 1/60 f5.6 and ISO 2000.

  I then my goal and my body return to manual and get this picture at 1/80, f5.6, (auto) ISO 2500.

  How the same settings can produce different images? Did I miss a step or something? Please let me know!

  You seem to get the manual exposure mode mixed with the manual focus mode.  They are two different things. On the goal, when you switch to M, you use manual focus. You must turn the focus ring on the lens to focus. On the dial to camera mode, you change Aperture, shutter speed and ISO manually to chane exposure (brightness of the image).

  The first time your goal is be blurred. After you return to auto, it twists the ring for you as it so now the lens is in short. Even after that you changed it to M, the lens is always point to the same object... If you aim now to something else more away or closer, then it will be fuzzy in M on the lens.

  I recommend that you leave the lens on A. There is no reason to use the manual focus unless you need areal or you understand what you need to do.  Similarly, there is no real reason to use the manual exposure in order to use manual. Use it when you need which means that you must first understand what it can do for you. I recommend your use Av or Tv mode first before trying the M mode.