Lenses for Canon EF200mm f1.8L profile

Similar Questions

• Lenses for Canon PowerShot S120 profile?

  Is there a profile of lenses for the Canon PowerShot S120?

  I use the lens S100 profile to my S120. I didn't thorough tests to see the degree of precision, it is, but it seems to be ok, especially the vignette correction.

• Profile of lenses for Canon 28/1.8 - already installed in LR4?

  Hmm, the explanation of aim profiles and how to add is a bit confusing.

  When I look here in the list of Adobe own lenses taken in charge, my new ""Canon EF 28mm f/2.8 IS USM " list:"

  http://helpx.Adobe.com/x-productkb/multi/lens-profile-support-Lightroom-4.html

  Is that mean that the profile must already be installed in LR 4? (I'm under 4.4)

  The profile is not displayed in Lightroom for me. (I'm shooting JPEG).

  I downloaded the lens profile Downloader and found a profile for this goal, but that is the official profile of Adobe for the lens? I installed it but it still does not for me because it is for RAW only.

  Sorry for the newbie question.

  Thanks in advance,

  Paul D.

  Lenses for JPEG profiles are few and far between. Software of the lens using profiling to make your own may be your only option.

• For Canon 7 d camera profiles?

  IN LR 3.2 I don't get any specific profiles for the 7 d. No option live camera, for example. Is this because Adobe is not yet support this model?

  Read what I said. There are separate color for each camera profile. If you want to check, and then visit the file I posted. These profiles appear in LR depends on the camera that created the file. If you create other profiles for a specific camera, it will be also visible. Profiles that are not to the camera will be displayed as option in LR.

  LR knows which device file and load all the profiles available for this camera. In the case of the 7 d, it's the stuff as landscape, Vivid, etc., based on the names for the different styles that the camera can produce with jpg. Other cameras may have various naming conventions and many camera will have only one Adobe Standard profile, which will be named as such with the number that relates to the version of ACR that was in use when they were created. So for your camera, if the profiles are installed, you should be able to choose between Adobe Standard, Vivid , etc., all the individual proifle for the 7 d that do not appear for any other device unless you visit the actual file where they are, as I have posted previously.

• I need lenses for Canon 6 d

  Hello

  I just bought my 6 d with EF 24-105mm f / 4L IS USM lens. I'm new in the world of photography canon so I'm still confused about what lenses should I own suits my needs. I need especially my goal to take pictures at my gym where I teach karate classes, the room is about 50 * 50 feet, I am planing to take pictures for the students, while peferoming karate moves so I want to take pictures for the whole team that for sure needs a wide-angle lens but I know not the focal length I need and if it has zoom the goal or not. Addinng to this use I need as well to take pictures for my new born baby and occations of my other child such as birthdays, school events...

  Thank you in advance

  I might consider getting the EF 50 mm f1/.4 USM.

  I imagine that you will use this to capture images of students performing moves - they are 'on the move '.

  During motion capture, you can (a) use a shutter speed faster to 'freeze' the action, or (b) use a slightly slower shutter speed to allow the image implies a sense of motion blur (and sometimes, it's actually a more compelling.)

  Photograph of Interior with faster shutter speeds is delicate, because usually the light is weak (Fortunately the 6 d has a high ISO range.)  But it helps to have a goal which collects naturally much more light.

  Your 24-105mm lens has a maximum ratio of focal f/4.  The report describes the number of times the diameter of the free opening in the lens (opening) can be divided into the focal length.  This means that to, say, 100mm... the aperture of the lens is able to dilate and 25mm wide and 25mm is divided into 100mm exactly four times, it is a lens ' f/4' (the aperture blades may contract smaller... the value printed on the lens always describe the report using the largest possible opening size.)

  A 50mm f/1.4 lens collects literally EIGHT times more light.  This means that he can use a shutter speed to eight times faster than the 24-105mm... or it can use a lower ISO setting (to reduce the 'noise' in the image).

  I am also considering a lens based on subject framing.  You can use the calculator 'dimensions of field' on this Web site: http://www.tawbaware.com/maxlyons/calc.htm

  So imagine that you want to capture a student doing a kick in which you believe, you will need a framework at least 10' high.  You can use the calculator to determine what focal length of a given distance, you'll need to capture that.  If I plug a 50mm lens, guess I'll be 20' away from the student, and then I can plug these two values.  There is a third value, which is the "focal length multiplier" (also known as the "crop factor").  Your 6 d is a "full frame" camera, which means that the factor of cropping (or multiplier) is always exactly '1' (if you had a camera with a sensor size of APS - C... a little... then your crop factor sensor would be 1.6).

  If I access the '50' for the focal length of the lens, '1' to multiply the focal length and '20' to my distance to the subject and click the "compute" button, it tells me that the physical framework of the distance dimensions is 9' 7.2 "high (in the vertical direction) and 14' 4.8" wide in the horizontal direction.  It is a comfortable (close enough to 10') frame to frame the subject and perhaps also their target.

  I could try other lenses too...  I could plug in 85mm as the focal length, but I try to change the distances to get a similar framing and I discovered that at 85mm, I really need about 35 feet away (instead of 20' far away.)

  You can imagine how go to higher focal lengths will be able to get to a point where you run lack of space in your room 50' because if your subject is in the middle of the room, you have about 25' and your back is against the wall, trying to get this shot.  That's why... I think that 50mm is probably a good lens (again this is based on the assumption that you want to capture a vertical height of approximately 10'.)

  A bit of caution... When you use a lens with a report f / d below, the depth of field (an imaginary Beach distances to your intended focus distance over which subjects seem to be in acceptable focus) becomes narrower.

  With a 50mm using f/1.4 lens and a lens focused at a distance of 20', the 'depth of field' is a little over 4' thick... distance of 18.1 ' through 22.3 ' will appear to be reasonably acceptable point.

  Compare that to f/4 (using the same focal length and 20' 50 mm) and the depth of field is 12.7 ' thick... distance of 15.5 ' through 28.2 ' are in acceptable focus.

  You can see that, while the report f / f/1.4 d collect eight times more light, it happens to a compromise in the depth of field (btw, a lot of people really LIKE the blurred background and do their best to get the effect).

  If your subject distance changes, then you'll want to use the mode of development of "AI Servo" (instead of the mode of development of the default camera 'One Shot') which causes the camera constantly reevaluate and tweak attention than your distance to the subject changes (in 'One Shot' mode it will carry only until she Achieves a lock... and then stops focusing even if your subject is moving and distance) is no longer valid.)

  Flash: You ask about flash, but I thought I would offer this because it's something I would probably consider doing in this situation.

  It becomes a bit complicated because of the 'synchro-flash max' speed (on the 6 d speed is 1/180th second shutter speed)  This is not fast enough to 'freeze' the action if this action is at a relatively high speed.

  The camera uses two "curtains" (doors) that slide on the sensor.  When taking a picture, you open to start the show... a moment later, the second, are closed.  The doors have a maximum speed of physics that they can move to open or close.  On your camera, a shutter speed of 1/180th second or slower allows a door to open COMPLETELY, then the flash (Exhibitor the entire sensor to light) and then close the second door.  A speed faster than 1/180th requires that the second door already begin before the end of the first opening of the closing door.  So to create pictures of high speed, the first door left open but the second door begins suite - expose really just a "slot" of light that sweeps the sensor.  This allows your camera to use shutter speeds that are faster that the doors can actually move.  If a flash fire when there is only a slit exposed, while part of the sensor exposed by this crack Gets the benefit of the light.

  It deals with issues like a flash that support the mode "sync high speed ' with enough power for multiple light chips needed when using high-speed sync.   This means pulse flash quickly because the shutter works so well that each part of the sensor has Flash.  But as the flash needs to perform several bursts, then single burst may trigger the 'full' power because the flash has book enogh power for all the necessary pieces.  It is useful to have a powerful flash in particular (as Canon 600EX-RT).

  You can also use mode "sync second curtain" If you normally involves movement... when using a flash, the first door opens, then flash fires... and wait for the camera on the amount of time needed for your show time... and THEN close the second door.  But if something is moving, it means you get a bright subject (in flash) and then the ambient light continues to bring a bit of light on your subject that continues to shift.  This dimmer light on the moving subject creates a ghost trail... but the trail is "in front" of your subject, rather than 'behind' your topic - following, so it seems a little strange.

  "Second curtain" mode involves the camera to delay the release of the flash, just before the second door closes.  This puts this drag ghost 'behind' your topic.

  BTW, this second option (which implies the query using a flash on mode "on the 2nd curtain sync" while using a slow shutter speed deliberately) also helps the camera much better capture the background exposure of the room (we call this technique "dragging the shutter" because we deliberately use a slower than necessary shutter speed when using a flash).

• Profile of lenses produced for Canon G12 set 1.0 file does not show in the lightroom editing pane

  Indicate that adobe see the lens profiles for G10, G12, G15 and G1X but only G10 in downloader and the choice of a profile component edit lightroom

  Created my own lenses for G12 svaed profile, but it does not come up to change component choices?

  You are using which version of LR and LR allows you to manually select the desired profile?

  I understand your point that Canon could offer their own profiles of the compatible Adobe, but who would probably then be provided to the end-user by Canon, and not by Adobe.

  I am see the profiles of specific gun you mention, in LR 5.4, offered against the Raw images, but not against non-premieres images.

  Unless you are using an older version of software, or by selecting edit version derived perhaps from e.g. TIFF instead of a Raw, I am at a loss, why you don't see them too.

  According to me, that it will have been generated by Adobe. They are here on my PC:

  

  Please note that there is a profile of non - Raw that are listed are for example the G10, but not for example the G12. So the fact that you see a profile for the G10, gives weight to the idea that don't may not actually selected Raw image based.

  BTW, I do not think that all additional profiles that the user could make or find and then save here, never going to be seen by LR (or ACR). It's apparently the location 'official profiles installed only' from Adobe.

  All profiles made or declared by the user, must be saved in a similar folder in the user data area, so that LR to see them and use them. And if they are the first based, they will appear still not to a basic non - Raw image.

  On my Windows computer, this location is C:\Users\[username]\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\LensProfiles\1.0

  It has a "Downloaded" subfolder (that is, in my view, the destination used by Adobe profile downloader utility).

  RP

• Profiles of lenses of Photoshop CS6 No. (lens correction filter) for Canon 6 d raw files

  LightRoom and Camera Raw have Lens Correction profiles and all lenses available today are in the list for the Canon 6 d of the raw files. BUT the Correction of filter/optics if Photoshop CS6 only have 2 Tamron lenses listed. Weird that there are a of the profiles of lenses for the Canon 6 d raw files in Lightroom and Camera RAW, but not CS6 filter/Lens Correction.

  Camera RAW, LR and PS are up-to-date... NOTE: I have a Canon G11, 7 d and 1 d Mark II N and all their files work as expected. It's only the RAW files created by Canon 6 d.

  All of the suggestions.

  To the right of where it says the search criteria, click on the small icon of three bars-arrow and uncheck the Match sensor size and should learn more.

• LR6.5.1 has no camera for CANON Powershot G7x profile

  Hey Hello everyone,

  Miss me the correction of profile for my CANON Powershot G7x (not Powershot G7xMarkIi!)

  Also, when I choose Canon, no G7x Powershot is available, while G1x a.s.o. are

  What I have to change in my set-up?  (see attached photo and saying: correspondent profile cannot be found automatically!)

  Best looks and thx in advance for feedback

  Hi Manuelaw,

  Sorry you don't see the profile for the Powershot G7x, looking at our article of supported lenses: lenses supported

  It looks like not it's one of the cameras that we have corrections profile lens.

  I recommend you create your own profile of lens by using the lens profile Creator, Digital Negative (DNG), Adobe DNG Converter tool | Adobe Photoshop CC - or try the Lens profile Downloader to see if others have created a profile of lenses for that camera.

  Let us know how it goes.

  Concerning

  Pete

• Why Canon does not have old adapters for my SLR camera lenses? I can get them with Sony, but not for Canon

  I have an old Canon Ftb with a goal of 1.4 fd. I'm getting into digital cameras now (just to have a 12 G for now, mainly used for underwater photography). I would like to stay with Canon, but I'm very annoyed that Canon doesn't have a way to continue to use their old lenses. Nikon, for all their flaws are much better at you can continue to use your old stuff.

  Then I find that if I'm going to Sony (Yes, really, Sony) can I use my lenses from Canon ol via an adapter. This my Canon, tell me it ain't so. You must have a way, I just have not yet discovered.

  There are many challenges with this and the "adapters" are to be considered with a certain scepticism.

  The FD lenses are mechanical - no electronics.  The case of the unit, on the other hand, has an electronic interface for the lens - nothing of mechanics.   This means that if you set the goal, you would have to manually set the aperture but also of manual focus of the lens.

  Your Canon DSLR had a split Prism focusing in the viewfinder to help.  A new camera does not work.  The reason why there is no help from the development is because most of the lenses are autofocus so it is simply not necessary.  This makes it particularly difficult to tell when you've worn exactly the goal.  Making it even more difficult is that any device with a sensor size of APS - C (most of them) have a small viewfinder that you had on your Canon SLR photography.

  In addition, the lenses are optimized for a specific back focus distance.  Canon's EOS cameras have a depth of 44 m from the mounting flange of lens at the front of the body at the level of development within the body.  When you use an adapter, it modifies that distance.  If you change too much, the lens behaves as if it is mounted with extension tubes, the entire range of focus is moved closer to the camera, and it can be is no longer able to focus to infinity.

  There are 3 parties that make these lenses... conversion kits but they do them for a few drinks (not all) and that they require a bit of surgery on the goal (e.g. this level which protrudes beyond the rear of the lens used to set the aperture value should go).

  But... the modern lenses are just so much better than the old FD lenses.   Requires really quite the dozen FD lens to make it interesting this fuss.  Also, I own a Canon SLR (AE-1) and a few glasses of FD... but have no interest in trying to use one of these lenses on my EOS DSLR cameras.

  I think that this question almost as Ford asking why they do not wheel adapters let wheels it T model mount on a Mustang of 2015.  The new wheels are so much better than the old wheels, you want to continue to use the old wheels.

  Leave your old lenses in the past.  Mine are on the shelf alongside my AE-1... body as a conversation piece.  I don't actually use them.

• Could not find target for Canon profile 10-18mm lens.

  Hi, I have LR CC. When I click Activate profile correction LR is not able to find the profile for Canon 10-18mm. Selects the Canon 10-22mm instead. I was going on the lens profile support list and it is said that 10-18mm is supported to LR 5.6V. Then why can't I see in my LR? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

  [Left the forum Cloud/Installer generic for program specific forum... MOD]

  Hello kar,

  Please follow the below thread related to the same issue.

  Why can I not see my camera calibration profiles

  Default locations of Lightroom 5

  It will be useful,

  ~ Mohit

• Install a profile of lenses for a Samyang 14 mm f2.8 ED GLISSEE UMC

  Install a profile of lenses for a Samyang 14 mm f2.8 ED GLISSEE UMC

  I downloaded http://www.photo-Worx.de/index.php?option=com_content & task = view & ID = 49

  I edited the PCL file and the value

  < stCamera:CameraRawProfile > True < / stCamera:CameraRawProfile >

  so this should work for my brute. DNG file

  I created a folder for it and place the Samyang14mm.lcp file in

  F:\Program Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5.4\Resources\LensProfiles\1.0\Samyang

  and restarted LightRoom5.4

  But under the lens Corrections, when I enable profile Corrections check there is no Samyang show and I can't find the profile.

  What I am doing wrong?

  Someone at - it a profile of RAW for the Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED SLIPPED UMC that works?

  Lightroom/resources records are for lens profiles provided by Adobe, only. LR will ignore all the other profiles in there, and profiles will be lost when you upgrade LR.

  The profiles provided by the user go under your folder users as shown here:

  http://members.lightroomqueen.com/Knowledgebase/article/view/1373/205/Lightroom-5-default-emplacements #7

• my lenses for my current Canon Xsi fit a new Eos 60 d?

  I am looking to buy a new camera, but has recently invested in 3 new lenses for my xsi-will they an Eos 60 d or any other model?

  When you ask a question like this it's best to list your models of lenses, BUT given that the 60 d is a body of cultures as your Xsi you lucky, ILS is ADAPTENT.

• lenses for APS - C format will work with a full frame?

  I look again for Canon 5 d IV, but can't afford to start out, but with maybe one goal, their EF 24 ~ 105. I have a few lenses for my other devices. the first three go with my EOS Elan, yes I kept a camera for 20 years... I was in the East, America Asia Central, Hawaii, Canada and England with me.

  Canon

  EF 35 ~ 135 mm f/4 ~ 5.6

  EF100 ~ 300 mm f/4.5~5.6

  EF 50 mm f/1.8

  EF 50 mm f/1.4

  EF-S 18 ~ 200 mm f/3.5~5.6

  EF-S 18 ~ 135 mm f/3.5~5.6

  Tamron

  SP 70 ~ 300 mm f/4 ~ 5.6

  16 ~ 300 mm 3.5 ~ 6.3

  SP 150 ~ 600 mm f/5 ~ 6.3

  Thank you, Blair...

  Objectives of Canon EF - S cannot be mounted on a FF camera.

  A few glasses of APS - C 3 rd-party can mount successfully, but at best, you'll probably get vignetting. At worst, you may damage the mirror.

• uv filter 58mm for canon t5i integrates a t5 Cannon

  I have two questions, but this is the first part. I am seeking for my lenses t5 uv filters ensure their safety. I'm pretty sure that a 58mm uv lens will fit on my canon but I want to double check before I have something to order online and it will be a hassle to return. More for the discriptions say for t4i t5i and so forth, but do not say t5, a uv filter sink a t5i fit a t5.

  Second part
  One of my cameras is a SLR Canon t70 of 1984, I have two lenses for this camera. Just out of curiosity can take the old leneses on a newer body. Somehow now the answer, I want to know if there is a way, it is possible, if there is an adapter of all kinds. It's just for a lot of money to develop the film

  The 58mm is the size of your filter (diameter).  Two of these lenses use a 58mm filter.  If a filter 58mm fits two lenses.

• extension for Canon 6 d tube

  Hello, I'm looking for an extension tube for my Canon 6 d. I found a few different brand offering a set 13, 21 and 31 mm sets. They don't specify if they support the auto focus. I would have preferred a set that support of the auto focus.

  Do you have a suggestion? Thank you

  The tube macro set that includes the rather odd size 13mm, 21mm and 31mm made by Zeikos and sells a whole bunch of different brands (Bower, Vivitar, Jessops, ProOptic and many others). There are two qualities of these tubes, one with metal bayonet comes up and a less expensive version with plastic bayonet rises (as have some kit lenses). The bodies of these tubes are plastic and they support control AF and openness. All the facts for Canon will be fit very well on the your 6 d EF mount (someone with a Canon of harvest/EF-S camera will have to take care to buy later versions of these that support this mount if they want to use with the EF-S lenses, some more before those who do not). These tubes to sell for less than $100 US (the bayonet plastic are often closer to US $50). Three things worry me to their subject: they seem not very durable, I've heard some reports of their cracking over time. Release latch is a little beyond and can be accidentally pressed. And I've seen a few reports of them "frying" the circuits of the Canon 5 d models. The latter seemed to be very isolated cases and 31 mm tube seemed the culprit. I have not seen all the reports of problems with other Canon models.

  Opteka is doing a set of tube which is similar in construction - plastic body with mount bayonet metal - which also sells for less than $100 USD, but includes more traditional formats of the tubes of 12 mm, 20 mm and 36 mm. They also support the AF control and openness. The release button is slightly off, but I haven't used these and can't tell if it's much better that the tubes Ziekos (etc.). They are a relatively new feature, so only time will tell how sustainable they are.

  The Kenko tubes set's metal body and metal bayonet mounts, more comparable to the tubes that Canon are available (but only individually). Kenko all contained 12mm, 20mm and 36mm and sells for about $200 US. Older versions of this set (labeled "CA/AF") are the only mount EF lenses. Current version marked ' CA/AFs' (note the small 's') is used with the EF and EF-S. Of course, either will work on 6 d and EF lenses. The Kenko tubes also support the AF control and openness.

  Canon offers only individual tubes: 12 mm and 25 mm. The older original type are EF. The current 'Mark II' are EF a EF-S compatible. The construction is very similar to the Kenko and totally supports the AF control and openness. Indeed, Kenko also offers individual tubes in the same size. Both the Canon and the Kenko use a release button recessed enough that it is difficult to accidentally fall. Currently, the Canon tubes sell for about $85 for the 12mm and $140 for the 25mm.

  Finally, there are macro extension tubes really inexpensive who do not have electronic contacts to provide the AF control and openness. They are usually all metal construction, use different locking mechanisms and sell for less US $25 (sometimes even less than $10). Sizes included in a set usually are 12 mm, 20mm and 36mm.

  To be honest, who doesn't not AF during macro shooting is not really all that big a deal. It is often easier to focus manually blows high magnification. I often switch off AF and several of my macro lenses are put to manual focus only. Focus you by moving all camera and lens more closely or to keep him away from the subject. The lens ring, kind of serves more as a zoom, defining the degree of expansion. The fine adjustment of the development is done with the movement of the whole platform. This can be done by hand, or there are tools such as the stages of macro development prevail. allowing that with a high degree of accuracy... or with a lens that has a tripod mounting ring, if you use the Arca-Swiss quick release system, it is possible to use a plate of extra long lens like a development of "slider".

  More of concern is the ability to directly control the aperture, which is done electronically with gun and camera objectives, through controls on the camera body and the electronic contacts linking the two. High magnification means shallow depth of field, closing the diaphragm is often necessary. There are ways to vary the opening with the really cheap tubes that do not have electronic contacts, even with the modern camera and lens. But it's a pain in the anus. Personally, I would only use and recommend the really cheap tubes for use on adapted lenses, vintage which have a control ring of the aperture on the lens itself.

  But most tubes discussion (Canon, Kenko, Zeikos/etc. and Opteka) provide electronic contacts, so control AF and the opening are fully supported.

  What purpose do you intend to use with the camera and extension tubes? More focal length, the extension you will need to significantly increase the magnification. But too short focal length can put you too close to the subject. Mostly for use on a FF camera a lens in the 70mm to 135mm range is a good compromise of adequate working distance, but handholdable and not requiring not too much expansion. You can stack many tubes for a whole bunch of extension, but it can become risky with too many tubes. Best to use as little as possible.

  I'm a big fan of extension tubes... were their use with various systems for 25 + years and always have some on hand just in case they are needed. They can also improve the ability to narrow focus of a large telephoto lens. They are easy to use and having no light inside, have little negative effect on the quality of the image.

  I currently use with my kit Canon Canon 12 mm (2 X), 25mm and an older set of Kenko. Over the years, I have used lenses from 20 mm to 500 mm, 24-70, 70-200 and 28-135 mm Zoom. I sometimes use with macro lenses, too... to stimulate their magnification higher that 1:2 or 1:1 the lens alone offers.

  My recommendation... Buy a good game and you're going to buy them only once. There is little wear and macro extension tubes are versatile, useful and easy to slip into the corner of your camera with you bag all the time.  IMO the Kenko game offers the best value (but I have not seen or used the new Opteka set has been presented, so can't really compare).

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY