Macro + telephoto?

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• Possibilities of macro?

  Thanks for reading this.
  I like to take pictures of things like insects and small lizards. I found a really cool Mantis yesterday in the garden and took some pictures of it. I used my 70-200 with the 1.4 tc which was pretty good, but I could of course not very close because the limits of depth of focus. I am considering getting the barrel extension tubes: EF 12 II and EF 25 II. What is a good way to go? Here's something that you would use as well as a tc on a 70-200? Or is the wrong type of lens for this kind of work? I also had an initial investigation of the flash macro circular rings. But I am assuming that they would work with my 70-200 cause of large diameter of the front element. He seems to have a lot of options for macro set ups. What kind if the installer should be to make the pretty decent macro shots? I was a big fan of Igor Siwanowicz' work for a very long time.

  See you soon,.
  CG.

  Hello

  As ebiggs says, there are several ways to make macro shots.

  Personally, I use a number of extension tubes (a set of Kenko of 3-36, 20 & 12 mm - more a 25mm cannon and two Canon 12 mm). These are always useful to have, and I wouldn't be without a few in my camera bag, all the time. They are inexpensive and can allow you to get this macro or close-up when you do not have a lens macro with you, or can be used to increase the capabilities of a true macro lens beyond magnification is 1:1 (general) potential, or simply used to get the nearest minimum focus distance with a telephoto lens.

  For example, this was shot with EF 70-200/2.8 IS, Canon 25 mm extension tube and 550EX flash (filling)...

  

  I have been hunting of birds and did not have a macro with my lens.

  For sub image to frame the small Bush * i * (replace the astericks with "t"... the cyber censorship allow me to use the actual name of this bird) as tight as I wanted, I needed to add a 36mm extension tube to an EF 500/4 IS lens, so that the lens to focus more closely...

  

  While they are not necessarily designed for the macro or almost macro work teleconverters (Canon calls Extenders) change the effective focal length of a lens, but leave its closest distance focal length quantity... so will increase the potential of magnification. In order to get the slot kick a little fence lizard, I have had to use time - Canon EF 1. 4 X II and an extension of 25 mm - 300/2.8 IS lens...

  

  More the focal length of your lens, the effect less any given amount of expansion will give. An extension of 25mm changes slightly the magnification and the closest focusing distance of a 300mm lens... But the same amount of extension on a 50mm lens would have dramatic effect.  Next image was shot with 12mm on the EF 50/1.4 lens extension...

  

  Even more extreme, the following was shot with 12mm on an EF 20/2.8 lens extension (I wanted an extra depth of field to keep more detailed background)...

  

  During the filming of the foregoing, the petals of flowers were actually touch the front element of the lens! Can't get much closer than that!

  The macro above or near macro shots were made using lenses "non-macro" that have been made to concentrate more than normally possible, using extension tubes. Those who can work, but there are some advantages to true macro lenses, too. I personally use four in my Canon Kit: Tamron SP AF 60mm f2.0, Canon MP-E 65mm f2.8, Canon 100/2.8 USM (not the L / IS) and Canon 180 / 3.5 L. I also use a Canon TS - E 45/2.8 for big jobs and occasionally a target macro Tamron SP 90/2.5 1:2 vintage, adapted.

  When you force non-macro lens to focus closer than expected, there may be side effects. For example, the shot of the rose bud above has a pretty strong vignetting and softer edges. It's characterisic of the EF 50/1.4 lens when it is done to focus very narrow and more openness is used... It is not necessarily a bad thing. I used the lens with extension deliberately for this one, because I wanted so much vignetting and soften the effects.

  One thing, you don't need to worry with 'real' macro lenses is image quality. In general, they are all very able to make beautiful pictures. It is lower for other features of macro lenses that set apart them from each other.

  Focal length is probably the main consideration. Too short a macro lens can get awfully close to your subjects, which could scare the living creatures, or do you throw an unwanted shadow on the subject or not even you bit or stung! A longer lens gives you more space to work, but a long lens is hard to get a stable shot and makes very very shallow depth of field.

  If I could have only one, I would choose my USM Canon EF 100/2.8 macro lens. It's the best all around for my purposes, on both devices of cultures (like yours, although I use 7Ds) and full frame (5 d MkII). 90 to 105mm gives the reasonable working distance, but it is quite easily portable for quick shots. DOF is still shallow, but manageable enough without resorting to ridiculously small openings where lighting is a problem and optical diffraction robs fine detal of images.

  Here's an example shot with my 180 / 3.5 L, which demonstrates how depth of field thin razor can get with such a long focal length...

  

  Even if it's a fairly large bee, the plan of sharpness is only of a few mm of depth. This was shot near 1:1 on full frame (with a film camera, actually). The lens and the camera are resting on the ground to help keep their constant. Something close to 100mm is much more easily portable, not too big and makes a bit more depth of field.

  There are other features of the Canon EF 100/2.8 USM which make a great macro lens, IMO.

  It's 'internal focus' (IF), which means that it does not grow in length when you focus it close, so don't cut your work remotely (note: 100L, Tamron 60/2 and 180 / 3.5 L are also IF lenses). However, there is no such thing as a free lunch, with optics. In order for the 100/2.8 if it starts raining that some other lenses of similar focal length. And the focus distance actually changes somewhat because it brought closer. I heard max with 1:1 magnification, it is closer to the 70mm lens... but it is not particularly notable in the field of work with the goal.

  100/2.8 USM macro lens on a crop sensor camera, with 550EX flash, pocket...

  

  Version 100/2.8 that I use has player development USM, which gives it an autofocus fast enough for a macro lens. Macro lenses tend to be slower to focus for a few reasons. One is that they must move their items focusing a long, long way to go all the way from infinity to 1:1 magnification. Another is that most precision signals more speed, so use what is called a mechanism of the development of "throw long". In the old days of manual focus, you have to turn the focus ring a lot more away with a target at long range. Short-range lenses were built for speed and could be used for sports photography. By car from the 100mm USM (who are also the EF - S 60 / 2.8, 100 and 180 / 3.5 L) makes more than one lens dual use, more usable for purposes of non-macro. Despite USM, the 180/3.5 L is significantly more slow development and not as useful for the non-macro works.

  I make the distinction between macro and non-macro focus because often the macro shooting focuses more easily manually. I use AF sometimes, but just as often or more often use the development manual method or the other.  But if you want to use as a non-macro, also, moderate telephoto lens it can be enjoyable if it is reasonably fast to the point. Another advantage of USM, it's that you haven't disable AF before substitution manually. (Note: there was a version prior to EF 100/2.8, abandoned years ago, that has no USM).

  For me, one of the most important features of the Canon 100 mm macro lenses is that they may fit with a Ruff of the tripod mounting. The 100/2.8 USM uses tripod ring B (b) and 100L tripod D ring. I'm not aware of any other macro lenses less than 150mm than a being mounted with a ring of tripod and for me, this is a very important feature. A lot of macro photography is made of a tripod or monopod. That is one of the reasons I really don't think that he had to upgrade to the new version IS..., the more it costs much more. In addition, the stabilization is of limited effectiveness when shooting macro... If this can be nice when you use the goal for non-macro purposes (except that I have several other lenses, so do not rely on the macro for dual use that much). The 180 / 3.5 L and most other 150 mm and more macro lenses equipped with a tripod ring.

  Speaking of stabilization, the Canon 100 L uses a hybrid form developed especially for macro, which obviously is one of the most effective. However, the 1:1 mag, it could only be good for one or two stops of assistance. For non-macro photos, the IS could give three or four stops assistance.

  I had the Tamron SP 60/2.0 recently because it is quite small and light, easy to store in my camera bag, when I don't know if I'll take any macro shots or not, have other gear to carry around. The same is true for the Canon EF - S 60/2.8 USM, it is just as compact. I opted for the Tamron for its opening of f2, mainly in order to use the lens for portraits, as well. Both the Canon and the Tamron 60 mm lenses are "cultures only" (all other macros mentioned are capable of FF).  I don't have the images uploaded of him online yet, but have found the quality to be good enough. It is a bit slow focusing... no problem for the macro or portraits, but not a goal I would use for sport and shooting action. I imagine that the Canon with its USM is developed faster.

  

  I used to use the vintage (25-30 years) Tamron 90 mm as my macro "compact" (shown on one of my 7Ds, above)... and he is used to this end but was less useful for portraits. Yet, for a goal which cost me about 60 US $. It's $20 for the lens - like new with hood, 1:1 adapter, caps and a Nikon Adaptall mount - plus $40 for a China Adaptall-EOS mount.  It is slower to work with. Set to manual focus, as well as manual control of the opening, but did a good job (here with the extension tube of 36mm to increase the magnification).

  

  The other lenses I mentioned use are more specialized. The Canon MP-E 65mm macro is a very high magnification, the manual focus lens. The magnification less he can give is 1:1, where most other macro lenses are at their maximum (unless you add extension for them tubes). It goes back to 5 / 1 or 5 X life size, so, essentially, can fill the frame on one of my 7Ds with a grain of rice.  Image made with the MP - E 65mm here is a tiny snail, newly hatched which was smaller than the nail on my pinky, at 2 X magnification...

  

  I must say, I would not recommend the MP-E 65mm as a first macro lens. It will especially be a lens only tripod. Depth of field is incredibly deep. Due to the extension of the objective, it's more small aperture of f16 becomes something like an effective f96 at higher magnification. I'll have to work on the development of techniques of stacking with this lens (and will need something much slower moving than a snail, shoot those!).

  I use the lens 'Tilt Shift' TS - E 45mm especially for close-ups of small product... Shoots of studio on table, like this that was one of hundreds of fact for the customer's Web site...

  

  Magnification with the 45mm alone isn't really the territory of the macro, but it allows a single control in terms of development with the tilt movements, as well as ways to dodge the reflections with the movements of travel. It is the manual focus lens, too. For higher magnfication work, the TS-E 90mm might be a better choice and magnification of two lenses can be increased by using extension tubes.

  As for flash, there are choices with those, too. There are specialized macro flashes or ways to use standard flashes for macro photos.

  I used a Canon MR - 14EX Ringlite for turned snail, above. I mainly only use a ring light with very high magnificatioin shots... to the low mags just light seems flat and 'clinical' for me. As far as I know, the MR-14EX is pretty much dedicated to Canon lenses, since it clips directly on the lens, locking silver that is on the Canon lenses.

  MR-14EX on MP-E 65mm, on 7 d...

  

  More often, especially for 1:1 magnification and more low blows, I use Canon MT - 24EX Twin Lite or a unique and standard flash with some minor changes. The Twin Lite is great, but a package large enough and not very useful for non macro. Also, it is designed to attach on the front of the Canon lenses, but is more flexible because it can be used with a more generic double flash support, too.

  Image of LH: MT-24EX normally mounted. Center: Double Lepp/Stroboframe flash support. Image of HR: MT-24EX on support Lepp.

     

  But do not use a dedicated, macro flash either. Often I will just use a flash unique and standard cord shoes off camera so that I can stand to the side of or above the object...

  

  Note that I put two coats of white qauze bandage on the flash head, maintained by a rubber band. This reduces and diffuse the power of the flash so that it can be used near a small subject. A single flash works surprisingly well, because compared to a small topic, it's like a giant light box in the sky. This Mantis was shot using something similar to the above setup (and EF 100/2.8 USM macro lens)...

  

  Enjoy you shopping!

  Macro is lots of fun... and a lot easier today than it was back in the good/bad old days of film! One of my old rigging...

  

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• MACRO for CANON 70 d

  Hello, please I have a new Canon 70 d and I am a user of semi-professional hobby.

  Could you please recommend me a Macro lens to buy? Don't want the most expensive/professional but has some great ideas to create great photos of some insects and flowers.

  Thank you!

  I don't have a 'connection', but I can explain it well enough probably.

  If something is 1:1 scale (which means full scale) what it really means is the size of the image recorded on the sensor itself is the same size as the subject in real life.

  To give you an example from the real world, a penny in the United States has a diameter of 19mm.  The dimensions of the sensor on your 70 d are about 15mm of height of 22.5 mm wide.

  This means that if you took a picture of a US penny to the size of the scale 1:1, then the penny would simply * sentence * adjustment in the horizontal direction, but would fit in the dimension vertical (a little of the penny would be cropped).

  If the objective was only able to scale 1:2 (half), the penny would be would seem smaller.

  There is no strict definition of 'macro', but purists would generally not consider a goal like being a macro lens 'real' unless he could handle the 1:1 scale.  There are many uses General telephoto zoom lenses that have range macro (a claim asserted by the marketing department).  This close-up range generally allows a maximum size of 1:4 scale perhaps (and sometimes not even that great.)

  There is a whole world of close-up photography techniques and many techniques do not use a macro lens.

  Macro lenses generally tend to have detail particularly high ability to solve.

• How to get decent macro shot with my T3i + EF 70-300mm f/4-5. 6 IS USM

  Someone here can direct me to a good tutorial on getting the macro shots decent with my objective T3i + EF 70-300mm f/4-5. 6 IS USM?  I'm pretty good in online searches, but I can't find are reviews and unboxings .  Even the manual I found isn't really give instructions re: macro, even if the lens itself says '1.5m/4.9ft MACRO' right on it.

  Thank you very much in advance for any help!
  Deb

  To use the lens for close-up photography, zoom focal length max (300mm for example) and run the tune-up to the minimum focus distance.  The distance of the development of saddle is close enough consider it is a zoom 70-300mm lens... but it's nowhere near as close as a dedicated macro lens to true.

  You can get close... There are two ways to do this.

  (1) you can use a near plan diopter.  So that the lens you want the Canon telephoto lens 500 d (specifically you want the version with diameter of 58 mm threads to attach to the front of the lens 70-300 mm).  It's about $85.  It is a goal to two elements (which is good better than any diopter close-up of part 3).

  (2) you can use "extension tubes".  An extension tube is (believe it or not) exactly what the name says... it is a hollow tube... and it extends the distance between the lens and the camera body.  You attach to the camera (such as a lens) and then set the goal to draw instead of the body.  This positions the lens away from the plan of the image inside the unit and, therefore, range full tune-up of the camerea is shifted more near the camera (focusing more close distance was 1.5 meter without extension tube, but will be reduced to 42 centimeters just with the attached Canon 25 mm extension tube).  It allows not only the camea to focus at a distance closer, it also increases the size of the image) extension Tubes don't have any glass in there - they are completely hollow.  The body of the tube a pine e-mail to transmit signals through so that the camera body and the lens will always be able to communicate.

  The Canon 25mm extension tube is about $140.  Kenko is another popular brand (their tubes are delivered as a 'game' of three different lengths).

  Whether you use tubes extension or close-up diopters, Cannon suggests that you should manually focus the lens.

  When you arrive at very close distance of focus, depth of field can become quite shallow.  If shallow you can't get as much of your subject in focus as you want.  Use the Hard-Core (a) macro photographers a tripod (because after precisely focusing...) "If your body moves a few millimeters, it may completely lift the subject outside the home).  If you do not want to make sure that you do not move (and the best way to do that is usually to use a stationary object to hold the camera - as a tirpod.)

  They can also use a technique called "focus stacking."  The development of stacking is to take several pictures.  You take a picture, tweaking the development by a few millimetres and take another shot and repeat until you have enough plans to stack the subject of front-to-back with all the positions of different orientation.  The images are then merged using software (Photoshop will do, but there are third-party products that are dedicated to the development of stacking as well.)

  I did it by wrapping a piece of tape around the ring to focus on my goal.  I then focus point of closest focus and use a marker to mark this point (on the Strip).  Then I focus on the point most distant from the focus I care and mark this spot on the Strip as well.  Now I take a series of photos... each, then slightly focus a little bit at a time, take another picture, and repeat until I got enough to get the closest points to the farthest, I scored on that tape.

  More difficult Basic macro photographers will sometimes use what is called a rail development.  It is a track that Mount you on the tripod and then set the camera to a carrier rolling on "rail".  Rail has fine adjustment that allow to move the camera with control.  You run the rail back (furthest point), then focus your goal for the closet focusing point on your topic.  Rather than turn the ring on the lens... you use the buttons on the focus rail - which physically moves the camera forward.

• iPhone 7 more telephoto camera does not

  Is anyone having problems with iPhone 7 more telephoto does not activate. I'll go to the camera application and press the 2 x zoom feature, but it appears to be not to activate the camera of 56mm at the front. I cover the lens with my finger, the camera on the right side and the iPhone always displays an image despite me concealing one of the cameras teo. I can't activate the second camera. It seems to only be zooming digitally. I'll do this outside and he'll only digitally zoom when I hide the second lens.

  Im having this same problem. I heard from someone that he could not work until the next software update... but I have no idea and have not found anything in the online help. If someone else gets to know how.

• Word file with macros trojan

  Hello world

  I have a doubt, recently I downloaded a file attachment to an e-mail, it was a MS Word file with macros and the Internet search that I discovered that it's a Trojan horse, the question is that if I downloaded the file and the Word automatically opens the file, but the context menu Macros told me that the macros are disabled and ask me if I still wanted to open of course, I said no!, then I deleted the file. According to it, its there any possibility that the Trojan horse could not install malicious software or opening certain ports? What I have to worry about something, in the case of installed malware of this macro, restore my mac, the problem is complete?

  Thank you.

  Its there any possibility that the Trojan horse could not install malicious software or opening certain ports?

  N ° No. Zero.

  I have to worry about something,.

  Peace in the world, perhaps. Other than that, no. Do not lose sleep over this kind of thing. You have a Mac.

• Lately Firefox is no longer recognizing macros Macro Express and upper and down arrows do more work as it should.

  Macro Express works in all other browsers (and programs), but is no longer working in Firefox.

  The arrow pointing upwards and down arrow works in all other browsers, but in Firefox, instead of moving her down (or up) a line at a time, the page will move much, much down (or climb). The Page Up and Page Down buttons work only part of the time... If an arrow down (or up arrow) has been used, the arrows Page move the page but not one page upwards or downwards... lots of pages pointing upwards or downwards.

  If I need to revert to a previous version of Firefox, I'll do that. Please tell me how to work the way they need to work things out.

  Work again in Thunderbird too. I did nothing to fix it on my machine. It was weird.

• Tab key does not work at the macro program

  Hello

  We have an in-house custom macro program that fills the fields in a web page displayed by Firefox.

  It is the window handle of the field with the circumflex, sends a string of WM_CHAR messages to fill it with text, sending a WM_CHAR message with a TAB character to change areas and repeat the above for the next field.

  This morning 15 Firefox updated itself, and now the program macro does not work. Specifically, Firefox is no longer changes fields form when it receives a tab character, and everything goes in the first field.

  No idea what happened?

  Better yet, there is a topic a chance: parameter of config to change to make it work again?

  Failing that, is it possible to revert to the previous version of Firefox 15?

  Thank you.

  Jack

  Good... ignore the above. It is a real problem with the update of Firefox 15, but a member of our staff has designed a work around for our macro program.

  See you soon.

  Jack

• How to assign a macro key to type the email address?

  How can I assign a macro key to type my email address?
  A lot of sites that use under the user name email address required. 24 characters is a lot of typing.
  My OS is Windows 7 Home Premium.

  Try the extension of cuts:

  • Press clippings: https://addons.mozilla.org/firefox/addon/clippings/

• Access cannot find the macro

  Hello everyone!

  I have a damaged database. I decided to try to restore. VD, I created a new database and imported all the tables, queries, forms, reports, macros of corrupted to the new database.

  However, when I try to open most of the forms, I get the error message:

  "Microsoft Office Access cannot find the macro 'TrackDBaseForms '.

  The macro (or its macro group) does not exist, or the macro is new, but has not been saved... »

  This basis has worked for a year, and I never had this problem. A Google search returns no results. However, it is obviously not in the macros page, or in any code I can find.

  I have supports this database for a year and have never encountered this missing macro. A Google search returns no results, so I guess it's something that the developers at the beginning. However, it is obviously not in the macros page, or in any code I can find.

  The corrupted database is such a State that it will not be open to all: the main form that is set to open at startup corrupts. MS Access 2007, size 500mg.

  Thank you!

  Have u tried looking for hidden objects?
  Go to Tools/Options and view the hidden objects to open the database without starting.  You can press the SHIFT key , and then open the DB. Note You may need to do this a few times.

  I hope that this recommendation will help you. In extreme cases, you can restore the data file via the repair tool of ms access as the Access Recovery Toolbox . http://www.oemailrecovery.com/access_repair.html  

• How to make the macro photography with a DSC-WX220?

  I have a new camera Cybershot. The DSC-WX220 and I am at a loss on how to put it up to take macro photos.

  Am certain someone reading this knows how little it is SONY ref manual, procedures and others.

  It's not like I'm new on camera. I am an 80 year old retired professional photographer.

  Any help is appreciated.

  Hello. Macro mode on the camera is automatic, so there is no particular setting to select. At the larger end, the camera will focus about 2 inches to infinity then until the end of the TV about 5 inches to infinity. This information is taken from the manual in full page 105. Hope that helps.

• want to m7: macros

  Hi and Hello again, I'm trying to update my profile and I need a MACRO definition, I have no idea what it means.

  Thank you

  joeypinter wrote:
  

  Hi and Hello again, I'm trying to update my profile and I need a MACRO definition, I have no idea what it means.

  Thank you

  Macros allow you to save a preset 'post' you can answer with in the forums by simply selecting from the drop of Macros on the upper right of the edit box.

• Macros on Excel 2016 for Mac

  Hello

  I have an excel for work file that contains macros. Whenever I have run the macros, it only allows me to open it in the "Read-only" format I just downloaded the Office 365 Personal today because a technician told me that it will correctly open the macros. So, as far as I know, this is the newest version of office 2016. I use a Macbook Pro on El Capitan 10.11.1. Anyone know of any way that open correctly?

  The I talked to contact technical support couldn't solve and sent to "support professional" who said that I have to pay for a 365 Business just so I could get "Business Support" and they could fix I hope that my question. Don't know what type of blade support designed, but they recommend that I come here to see if my question could be resolved. It was also the only free resolution, they provided...

  Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.

  Ask on the forums Microsoft Mac because it is their software you are having problems with. There is MS named MVP here to help.  This forum is for troubleshooting the problems of compatibility between Mac and Windows.

  http://answers.Microsoft.com/en-us/Mac

• RX 100 Macro

  1. how to access quickly the Macro mode?
  2. the auto focus is not available in Macro mode? The manual focus mode is a little confusing to use/then compose.
  3. can I assign my Macro mode settings for quick access to the Macro and then return quickly to my P mode?

  4. I have to say that the manual is terrible, and the generic videos are pretty useless. Sony should pay attention to users of this device very expensive, but sweet.

  Hi 986598-USER... I'm one of the trainers of digital imaging in the Canada, and I think I can help you with some of your questions.

  The RX100 is ideal for close-ups of the Macro and there are several ways you can do. Pardon my numbering scheme is not your questions...

  1. dedicated Macro Mode - spin mode selector t the SNA mode selection, then use the directional control up/down to search for the macro icon (little flower). Once selected, you will now be in fully automated mode designed to close.

  2. Macro switching fast - if throwing himself in the scene mode menu and find the macro is too many steps to quickly find the macro mode, you can easily assign your three custom modes of MR (memory recall), quick access to macro.

  To make this selection mode Macro, or set the camera settings however you prefer, then press menu and look in the menus of settings 'memory '. Select it and it will bring you to a settings screen black with '1', '2' and ' 3' at the top. These are your slots available for custom modes. Use left/right on the rear wheel controls to select 1, 2 or 3. Once you select the desired location, follow orders of the screen to confirm. Now the settings in that you compound will be saved in numbered MR slot you have chosen. To switch quickly between priority to another, such as P as you suggested, just rotate the above MR control dial and select the corresponding number and you're there.

  I find using custom modes of MR particularly useful when shooting with the auto HDR function or when using image effects. I prefer to shoot in RAW format, but the HDR and image effects must be in Jpeg format. Instead of having to go, in the menu to change the JPEG quality momentarily and then again for a quick shooting creative I dedicate a MR slot to do this. This way I can RAW, but if I want to take a quick shot with effects or HDR I just turn the stem of the wheel and turn quickly to M-priority where my choice of RAW is preserved.

  3. the RX100 is always in macro mode! -You can use the dedicated macro mode which increases the bokeh (background of-focus) effect, but this mode is automated for opening/shutter and ISO. I would like to have full control over these exposure settings when I shoot so I shoot most of my stuff in macro manual priority or shutter priority. With an incredibly short development of 5cm, it is the wider focal length the RX100 is able to shoot macros fabulous in any mode you choose. It is designed to attract basically, dedicated macro mode is only a quick guide with some automation. Try to get close in P mode and see what you get!

  4. disorientation MF Assist mode - it is a very useful feature for the fine development, but when you are already very close, when the pleasure that it can a little difficult to 'see' what you are framing. You can disable this tool by entering you menus and by disabling 'MF Assist.

  5 AF in Macro mode? -Yes, the dedicated Macro mode is always with autofocus. If you shoot in P, A, S, M, you can enable or disable the AF options. I prefer to use M or S with active DMF. Direct manual focus is the best of both worlds... it gives you of AF, but also allows you to refine the results before pressing the shutter button completely. So, you get the convenience of autofocus, but can also add personal control to refine your focus by simply adjusting the front control ring. It's different than standard AF because the lens decides what is right downtown, and causes any attempt to manually change the lens fight your setting to refocus its ideal point. The AF is really good, but sometimes he needs a little help and with DMF, you have all the control.

  I hope that some of this aid... Sorry if it was a bit of reading. Please let us know if you have any questions about what I said!

  Now, get out there and shoot a few macros!

• How to run a macro NIMax?

  deploy the instruments running labview with NIMax control cameras at remote locations without good phone or internet access. People with various system configuration training. They sometimes have difficulty following some basic instructions for NIMAX. I would like to define a macro for NIMAX perhaps executing 6 instructions. Is that possible in NIMAX or I need to associate another application?

  According to what are your '6 instructions', there may be a LabVIEW code simple, that we can use to perform the same functionality. It is not any direct way to automate the selection of parameters to the MAX, but we can do things like write settings of the camera, grab an image to align the camera, etc. from LabVIEW.

  Best,

  Daniel C.

  Technical sales engineer