want to m7: macros

Similar Questions

• automate the macro output

  Hi all
  
  I currently have two macros, buttons in the toolbar, I head out to a word generated at:
  
  Re-format to standard House (bits lost in translation of HR)
  -Remove extra spaces in the hidden text (index entries) to reduce the size of the file (13%).
  
  What I want to achieve is the macro to run as soon as the output has been generated. Can it be controlled by HR?
  
  When the project comes to an end, there will be 2 people left to preserve all documents, and I would like to make life as easy as I can for them.
  
  Thank you
  
  Brian

  I don't think that this can be achieved as a macro is started manually, as you do now, or has something to set it off. Which will normally open any folder or a specific file. You don't not clearly want the macro to run when you open any Word file so a macro must exist in the Word file containing the RH output. Clearly, which cannot exist so I don't see any way to do what you want.

  The best forum of Word I know is www.wopr.com and click on the link to the Woody show. If you explain that you want that a macro for automatic execution at the end of a document created by another application, you may find one of the gurus there is an idea. They are a very useful and very clever guy group.

• Form data help

  Hi all

  Can you please help with the sub issues in planning and forms of SmartView. I want to create macros multiple forms, either via an excel file after the export of the spreadsheet or in any other way in the planning. Can you please let me know how to create many forms? We have hundreds of cost center we need create forms. Can you please let me know if we can do in Hyperion planning.

  I appreciate your time and your response.

  You don't know why you create multiple forms for cost centers, they may not be in the Page and users can then select in the pages?

  Also related to import definitions of forms - not sure if it is more work or using "save under".

  Concerning

  Celvin Kattookaran

• I already worked with the macro recorder in Windows 95 (32 bit), now I want to do it on a 64 bit system.

  I already update the Win32Hlp but not the recorder.exe and recorder.dll because I have not found where to update. Is it posible to get a new program which look like?

  Hello

  In previous versions of Windows, you can save macros using the recorder for Windows macros, 32 - bit old. Now, you need a third-party utility.
  You can search for commercial 3rd online party by using your favorite search engine.

  PARTY SOFTWARE WARNING: using third-party software, including hardware drivers can cause serious problems that may prevent your computer from starting properly. Microsoft cannot guarantee that problems resulting from the use of third-party software can be solved. Software using third party is at your own risk.

  Diana
  Microsoft Answers Support Engineer

  If this post can help solve your problem, please click the 'Mark as answer' or 'Useful' at the top of this message. Marking a post as answer, or relatively useful, you help others find the answer more quickly.

• Word file with macros trojan

  Hello world

  I have a doubt, recently I downloaded a file attachment to an e-mail, it was a MS Word file with macros and the Internet search that I discovered that it's a Trojan horse, the question is that if I downloaded the file and the Word automatically opens the file, but the context menu Macros told me that the macros are disabled and ask me if I still wanted to open of course, I said no!, then I deleted the file. According to it, its there any possibility that the Trojan horse could not install malicious software or opening certain ports? What I have to worry about something, in the case of installed malware of this macro, restore my mac, the problem is complete?

  Thank you.

  Its there any possibility that the Trojan horse could not install malicious software or opening certain ports?

  N ° No. Zero.

  I have to worry about something,.

  Peace in the world, perhaps. Other than that, no. Do not lose sleep over this kind of thing. You have a Mac.

• RX 100 Macro

  1. how to access quickly the Macro mode?
  2. the auto focus is not available in Macro mode? The manual focus mode is a little confusing to use/then compose.
  3. can I assign my Macro mode settings for quick access to the Macro and then return quickly to my P mode?

  4. I have to say that the manual is terrible, and the generic videos are pretty useless. Sony should pay attention to users of this device very expensive, but sweet.

  Hi 986598-USER... I'm one of the trainers of digital imaging in the Canada, and I think I can help you with some of your questions.

  The RX100 is ideal for close-ups of the Macro and there are several ways you can do. Pardon my numbering scheme is not your questions...

  1. dedicated Macro Mode - spin mode selector t the SNA mode selection, then use the directional control up/down to search for the macro icon (little flower). Once selected, you will now be in fully automated mode designed to close.

  2. Macro switching fast - if throwing himself in the scene mode menu and find the macro is too many steps to quickly find the macro mode, you can easily assign your three custom modes of MR (memory recall), quick access to macro.

  To make this selection mode Macro, or set the camera settings however you prefer, then press menu and look in the menus of settings 'memory '. Select it and it will bring you to a settings screen black with '1', '2' and ' 3' at the top. These are your slots available for custom modes. Use left/right on the rear wheel controls to select 1, 2 or 3. Once you select the desired location, follow orders of the screen to confirm. Now the settings in that you compound will be saved in numbered MR slot you have chosen. To switch quickly between priority to another, such as P as you suggested, just rotate the above MR control dial and select the corresponding number and you're there.

  I find using custom modes of MR particularly useful when shooting with the auto HDR function or when using image effects. I prefer to shoot in RAW format, but the HDR and image effects must be in Jpeg format. Instead of having to go, in the menu to change the JPEG quality momentarily and then again for a quick shooting creative I dedicate a MR slot to do this. This way I can RAW, but if I want to take a quick shot with effects or HDR I just turn the stem of the wheel and turn quickly to M-priority where my choice of RAW is preserved.

  3. the RX100 is always in macro mode! -You can use the dedicated macro mode which increases the bokeh (background of-focus) effect, but this mode is automated for opening/shutter and ISO. I would like to have full control over these exposure settings when I shoot so I shoot most of my stuff in macro manual priority or shutter priority. With an incredibly short development of 5cm, it is the wider focal length the RX100 is able to shoot macros fabulous in any mode you choose. It is designed to attract basically, dedicated macro mode is only a quick guide with some automation. Try to get close in P mode and see what you get!

  4. disorientation MF Assist mode - it is a very useful feature for the fine development, but when you are already very close, when the pleasure that it can a little difficult to 'see' what you are framing. You can disable this tool by entering you menus and by disabling 'MF Assist.

  5 AF in Macro mode? -Yes, the dedicated Macro mode is always with autofocus. If you shoot in P, A, S, M, you can enable or disable the AF options. I prefer to use M or S with active DMF. Direct manual focus is the best of both worlds... it gives you of AF, but also allows you to refine the results before pressing the shutter button completely. So, you get the convenience of autofocus, but can also add personal control to refine your focus by simply adjusting the front control ring. It's different than standard AF because the lens decides what is right downtown, and causes any attempt to manually change the lens fight your setting to refocus its ideal point. The AF is really good, but sometimes he needs a little help and with DMF, you have all the control.

  I hope that some of this aid... Sorry if it was a bit of reading. Please let us know if you have any questions about what I said!

  Now, get out there and shoot a few macros!

• Add new macro in excel

  Hi all

  I write my data with activeX in excel. At the end of the acquisition, in that I want to add a new macro excel and begin to make a graph.

  How can I send Excel macro full?

  I already know that it is possible to run an existing macro in excel and likely with Arg (1to30) but it is not enough for me.

  I have more simple for me to send a complete macro.

  And I don't have desktop tools...

  Thank you

  
  

• How to extract a macro function call arguments

  Hi all

  I need help related to Macros in C.

  This is my code:

  #ifndef checkTrace
  #define checkTrace (CAFC) if (1) {printf ("function called checkTrace is :") ;}
  #endif

  I am looking for is:

  Suppose that is called checkTrace (getchar ()); I want to print 'GetChar () is called from checkTrace macro.

  Like this whatever the button func called by the macro checkTrace, I want to print the message as above mentioning the button func called by checkTrace()

  Any body let me know how I can do this in CVI?

  Any help will be greatly appreciated.

  Thank you

  Herald

  I think what you need is the operator "stringification": #.

  Check this box:

  #define checkTrace (CAFC) if (1) {printf ("function called checkTrace is: ' %s", #fCall) ;}}

  checkTrace (getchar ())

• macros personal

  Hey,.

  I would like to open a PERSONAL.xlsb macro to manipulate data to a TDMS file is imported into Excel (via import add-in for TDMS files). Everything must go automatically, but the problem with import add-in for excellent TDMS files is that it always opens a new excel worksheet.

  This is why I made a macro in a personal workspace, this file is located in: C:\Users\User_name\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Excel\XLSTART

  These macro can be opened in each worksheet, but I have difficulties to open this personal kind of macros, I always get an error saying that the macro is not available or it is turned off. I changed the options in Excel macros security to ' all running macros ' and yet he won't open it.

  I'm using Labview 2010 and Excel 2010, the files are in the attachment, if you want to try the programe the path must be changed.

  Did someone knows a solution?

  Sorry about that!

  It is better now?

  Warning: The example Code is provided as is. It has not been tested or validated as a product for use in a deployed application or system, or for use in dangerous environments. You assume all risk for use of the Code and the use of the Code is subject to the license terms of Sample Code which can be found at:http://ni.com/samplecodelicense

• How to assign a keyboard macro to a keyboard shortcut

  Does anyone know how to assign a keyboard macro to a keyboard shortcut?  I'm spoiled CodeWright by, if there is no selected item only when a 'Ctrl c' is issued, CodeWright automatically copy the line that the cursor is located. I'm trying to replicate this feature and the only way I can see it's a macro of the "copy line" keyboard right click on command.  Any thoughts?

  NABI:

  Looks like you're talking about modifying the source code.  I don't know a way to create your own keyboard macro.  You can change the shortcut key assignments (CVI 9.1: Options-> change the shortcut keys), but it seems that you need more than that.

  To make your example (a line no copying), I often have to press Ctrl-O, to cut the current line, immediately followed by a Ctrl-V to restore the original line.  This line is still in the buffer zone of the Clipboard, so I can go where I want the copy of the original line and press Ctrl + V.

  In the event that you do not change the code but create shortcuts for your users in your application, you can catch the EVENT_KEYPRESS in your panel or command callback callback and check for key code combinations.  See the multikey.prj example program comes with CVI and the CVI for EVENT_KEYPRESS help.

• Macro + telephoto?

  Questions first then bottom.

  Sigma f/2.8 150 mm macro with a 1.4 teleconverter OS x will provide me with close IQ than a nice 2.8 70-200 mm telephoto? (so I can buy a gem, but which is easier to sell to my wife) or I really have to choose between telephoto OR macro?

  If I get a 1.4 x teleconverter, I should get the Sigma one or I could get equivalent QI pro300 kenko (which would then allow to be used with a future purchase as a Canon 100-400mm).

  Background:

  I'm looking to make my first expensive lens to buy.  I am relatively new to photography (10 months) but took many photos and maybe even climb.

  I love and tend to take snaps for most wildlife and macro.  I bought a doublet close-up filter which is great for static elements (spiders in webs, etc.) but would like a true macro lens that can always capture capricious insects such as dragonflies.  I would say that 90% of all of my photos are taken at 250mm on my goal of 55-259.  I'd love to take sharper photos than my current goal is possible.

  I was leaning towards the macro Sigma 150 mm OS for its image stabilization and long lens for bugs and hoping that it could double for a telephoto lens in particular, if I add a 1.4 x teleconverter.  (which, at 210mm would make me close my current 250 mm)

  I rented this lens Sigma and sigma 1.4 TC to go with her for a weekend and was happy with my mothering of results.

  I probably eventually get a long telephoto lens (I think probably the Canon 100-400mm), and my other dear goal will probably be 15-85 or 17-55 2.8 canons.

  Thanks for any adivce or thoughts!

  Click here to see the images next to the Sigma 150 vs almost no matter what other purpose under the Sun. It is the site of digital photography, which I really love.

  http://www.the-digital-picture.com/reviews/ISO-12233-sample-crops.aspx?lens=807&camera=453&sample=0&...

  If the link doesn't work, or if you want to play with the different lenses, remember this: to see a lens WITH a TELECONVERTER simply select a focal length longer than the max for the lens, and if they have it, it will automatically show you the image with the mounted TC.

  Acceptable image quality is in the eye of the beholder. Judge for yourself.

  Good luck!

• Buy a lens that is suitable for portraits and photography macro?

  I have a canon 600 d.

  I want to buy a lens that can work as well for portraits and also for the macro. Is this possible?

  Budget is about $400. Stretch Max $ 600

  I was recommended 50 mm f1.8 for portraits.

  It will also work as a macro lens?

  Thanks you.what you hear by 100 mm too long for the portrait? a long time in the size of the lens? What's really important.
  I'm sorry if you find my questions too basic pls.

• Possibilities of macro?

  Thanks for reading this.
  I like to take pictures of things like insects and small lizards. I found a really cool Mantis yesterday in the garden and took some pictures of it. I used my 70-200 with the 1.4 tc which was pretty good, but I could of course not very close because the limits of depth of focus. I am considering getting the barrel extension tubes: EF 12 II and EF 25 II. What is a good way to go? Here's something that you would use as well as a tc on a 70-200? Or is the wrong type of lens for this kind of work? I also had an initial investigation of the flash macro circular rings. But I am assuming that they would work with my 70-200 cause of large diameter of the front element. He seems to have a lot of options for macro set ups. What kind if the installer should be to make the pretty decent macro shots? I was a big fan of Igor Siwanowicz' work for a very long time.

  See you soon,.
  CG.

  Hello

  As ebiggs says, there are several ways to make macro shots.

  Personally, I use a number of extension tubes (a set of Kenko of 3-36, 20 & 12 mm - more a 25mm cannon and two Canon 12 mm). These are always useful to have, and I wouldn't be without a few in my camera bag, all the time. They are inexpensive and can allow you to get this macro or close-up when you do not have a lens macro with you, or can be used to increase the capabilities of a true macro lens beyond magnification is 1:1 (general) potential, or simply used to get the nearest minimum focus distance with a telephoto lens.

  For example, this was shot with EF 70-200/2.8 IS, Canon 25 mm extension tube and 550EX flash (filling)...

  

  I have been hunting of birds and did not have a macro with my lens.

  For sub image to frame the small Bush * i * (replace the astericks with "t"... the cyber censorship allow me to use the actual name of this bird) as tight as I wanted, I needed to add a 36mm extension tube to an EF 500/4 IS lens, so that the lens to focus more closely...

  

  While they are not necessarily designed for the macro or almost macro work teleconverters (Canon calls Extenders) change the effective focal length of a lens, but leave its closest distance focal length quantity... so will increase the potential of magnification. In order to get the slot kick a little fence lizard, I have had to use time - Canon EF 1. 4 X II and an extension of 25 mm - 300/2.8 IS lens...

  

  More the focal length of your lens, the effect less any given amount of expansion will give. An extension of 25mm changes slightly the magnification and the closest focusing distance of a 300mm lens... But the same amount of extension on a 50mm lens would have dramatic effect.  Next image was shot with 12mm on the EF 50/1.4 lens extension...

  

  Even more extreme, the following was shot with 12mm on an EF 20/2.8 lens extension (I wanted an extra depth of field to keep more detailed background)...

  

  During the filming of the foregoing, the petals of flowers were actually touch the front element of the lens! Can't get much closer than that!

  The macro above or near macro shots were made using lenses "non-macro" that have been made to concentrate more than normally possible, using extension tubes. Those who can work, but there are some advantages to true macro lenses, too. I personally use four in my Canon Kit: Tamron SP AF 60mm f2.0, Canon MP-E 65mm f2.8, Canon 100/2.8 USM (not the L / IS) and Canon 180 / 3.5 L. I also use a Canon TS - E 45/2.8 for big jobs and occasionally a target macro Tamron SP 90/2.5 1:2 vintage, adapted.

  When you force non-macro lens to focus closer than expected, there may be side effects. For example, the shot of the rose bud above has a pretty strong vignetting and softer edges. It's characterisic of the EF 50/1.4 lens when it is done to focus very narrow and more openness is used... It is not necessarily a bad thing. I used the lens with extension deliberately for this one, because I wanted so much vignetting and soften the effects.

  One thing, you don't need to worry with 'real' macro lenses is image quality. In general, they are all very able to make beautiful pictures. It is lower for other features of macro lenses that set apart them from each other.

  Focal length is probably the main consideration. Too short a macro lens can get awfully close to your subjects, which could scare the living creatures, or do you throw an unwanted shadow on the subject or not even you bit or stung! A longer lens gives you more space to work, but a long lens is hard to get a stable shot and makes very very shallow depth of field.

  If I could have only one, I would choose my USM Canon EF 100/2.8 macro lens. It's the best all around for my purposes, on both devices of cultures (like yours, although I use 7Ds) and full frame (5 d MkII). 90 to 105mm gives the reasonable working distance, but it is quite easily portable for quick shots. DOF is still shallow, but manageable enough without resorting to ridiculously small openings where lighting is a problem and optical diffraction robs fine detal of images.

  Here's an example shot with my 180 / 3.5 L, which demonstrates how depth of field thin razor can get with such a long focal length...

  

  Even if it's a fairly large bee, the plan of sharpness is only of a few mm of depth. This was shot near 1:1 on full frame (with a film camera, actually). The lens and the camera are resting on the ground to help keep their constant. Something close to 100mm is much more easily portable, not too big and makes a bit more depth of field.

  There are other features of the Canon EF 100/2.8 USM which make a great macro lens, IMO.

  It's 'internal focus' (IF), which means that it does not grow in length when you focus it close, so don't cut your work remotely (note: 100L, Tamron 60/2 and 180 / 3.5 L are also IF lenses). However, there is no such thing as a free lunch, with optics. In order for the 100/2.8 if it starts raining that some other lenses of similar focal length. And the focus distance actually changes somewhat because it brought closer. I heard max with 1:1 magnification, it is closer to the 70mm lens... but it is not particularly notable in the field of work with the goal.

  100/2.8 USM macro lens on a crop sensor camera, with 550EX flash, pocket...

  

  Version 100/2.8 that I use has player development USM, which gives it an autofocus fast enough for a macro lens. Macro lenses tend to be slower to focus for a few reasons. One is that they must move their items focusing a long, long way to go all the way from infinity to 1:1 magnification. Another is that most precision signals more speed, so use what is called a mechanism of the development of "throw long". In the old days of manual focus, you have to turn the focus ring a lot more away with a target at long range. Short-range lenses were built for speed and could be used for sports photography. By car from the 100mm USM (who are also the EF - S 60 / 2.8, 100 and 180 / 3.5 L) makes more than one lens dual use, more usable for purposes of non-macro. Despite USM, the 180/3.5 L is significantly more slow development and not as useful for the non-macro works.

  I make the distinction between macro and non-macro focus because often the macro shooting focuses more easily manually. I use AF sometimes, but just as often or more often use the development manual method or the other.  But if you want to use as a non-macro, also, moderate telephoto lens it can be enjoyable if it is reasonably fast to the point. Another advantage of USM, it's that you haven't disable AF before substitution manually. (Note: there was a version prior to EF 100/2.8, abandoned years ago, that has no USM).

  For me, one of the most important features of the Canon 100 mm macro lenses is that they may fit with a Ruff of the tripod mounting. The 100/2.8 USM uses tripod ring B (b) and 100L tripod D ring. I'm not aware of any other macro lenses less than 150mm than a being mounted with a ring of tripod and for me, this is a very important feature. A lot of macro photography is made of a tripod or monopod. That is one of the reasons I really don't think that he had to upgrade to the new version IS..., the more it costs much more. In addition, the stabilization is of limited effectiveness when shooting macro... If this can be nice when you use the goal for non-macro purposes (except that I have several other lenses, so do not rely on the macro for dual use that much). The 180 / 3.5 L and most other 150 mm and more macro lenses equipped with a tripod ring.

  Speaking of stabilization, the Canon 100 L uses a hybrid form developed especially for macro, which obviously is one of the most effective. However, the 1:1 mag, it could only be good for one or two stops of assistance. For non-macro photos, the IS could give three or four stops assistance.

  I had the Tamron SP 60/2.0 recently because it is quite small and light, easy to store in my camera bag, when I don't know if I'll take any macro shots or not, have other gear to carry around. The same is true for the Canon EF - S 60/2.8 USM, it is just as compact. I opted for the Tamron for its opening of f2, mainly in order to use the lens for portraits, as well. Both the Canon and the Tamron 60 mm lenses are "cultures only" (all other macros mentioned are capable of FF).  I don't have the images uploaded of him online yet, but have found the quality to be good enough. It is a bit slow focusing... no problem for the macro or portraits, but not a goal I would use for sport and shooting action. I imagine that the Canon with its USM is developed faster.

  

  I used to use the vintage (25-30 years) Tamron 90 mm as my macro "compact" (shown on one of my 7Ds, above)... and he is used to this end but was less useful for portraits. Yet, for a goal which cost me about 60 US $. It's $20 for the lens - like new with hood, 1:1 adapter, caps and a Nikon Adaptall mount - plus $40 for a China Adaptall-EOS mount.  It is slower to work with. Set to manual focus, as well as manual control of the opening, but did a good job (here with the extension tube of 36mm to increase the magnification).

  

  The other lenses I mentioned use are more specialized. The Canon MP-E 65mm macro is a very high magnification, the manual focus lens. The magnification less he can give is 1:1, where most other macro lenses are at their maximum (unless you add extension for them tubes). It goes back to 5 / 1 or 5 X life size, so, essentially, can fill the frame on one of my 7Ds with a grain of rice.  Image made with the MP - E 65mm here is a tiny snail, newly hatched which was smaller than the nail on my pinky, at 2 X magnification...

  

  I must say, I would not recommend the MP-E 65mm as a first macro lens. It will especially be a lens only tripod. Depth of field is incredibly deep. Due to the extension of the objective, it's more small aperture of f16 becomes something like an effective f96 at higher magnification. I'll have to work on the development of techniques of stacking with this lens (and will need something much slower moving than a snail, shoot those!).

  I use the lens 'Tilt Shift' TS - E 45mm especially for close-ups of small product... Shoots of studio on table, like this that was one of hundreds of fact for the customer's Web site...

  

  Magnification with the 45mm alone isn't really the territory of the macro, but it allows a single control in terms of development with the tilt movements, as well as ways to dodge the reflections with the movements of travel. It is the manual focus lens, too. For higher magnfication work, the TS-E 90mm might be a better choice and magnification of two lenses can be increased by using extension tubes.

  As for flash, there are choices with those, too. There are specialized macro flashes or ways to use standard flashes for macro photos.

  I used a Canon MR - 14EX Ringlite for turned snail, above. I mainly only use a ring light with very high magnificatioin shots... to the low mags just light seems flat and 'clinical' for me. As far as I know, the MR-14EX is pretty much dedicated to Canon lenses, since it clips directly on the lens, locking silver that is on the Canon lenses.

  MR-14EX on MP-E 65mm, on 7 d...

  

  More often, especially for 1:1 magnification and more low blows, I use Canon MT - 24EX Twin Lite or a unique and standard flash with some minor changes. The Twin Lite is great, but a package large enough and not very useful for non macro. Also, it is designed to attach on the front of the Canon lenses, but is more flexible because it can be used with a more generic double flash support, too.

  Image of LH: MT-24EX normally mounted. Center: Double Lepp/Stroboframe flash support. Image of HR: MT-24EX on support Lepp.

     

  But do not use a dedicated, macro flash either. Often I will just use a flash unique and standard cord shoes off camera so that I can stand to the side of or above the object...

  

  Note that I put two coats of white qauze bandage on the flash head, maintained by a rubber band. This reduces and diffuse the power of the flash so that it can be used near a small subject. A single flash works surprisingly well, because compared to a small topic, it's like a giant light box in the sky. This Mantis was shot using something similar to the above setup (and EF 100/2.8 USM macro lens)...

  

  Enjoy you shopping!

  Macro is lots of fun... and a lot easier today than it was back in the good/bad old days of film! One of my old rigging...

  

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• MACRO for CANON 70 d

  Hello, please I have a new Canon 70 d and I am a user of semi-professional hobby.

  Could you please recommend me a Macro lens to buy? Don't want the most expensive/professional but has some great ideas to create great photos of some insects and flowers.

  Thank you!

  I don't have a 'connection', but I can explain it well enough probably.

  If something is 1:1 scale (which means full scale) what it really means is the size of the image recorded on the sensor itself is the same size as the subject in real life.

  To give you an example from the real world, a penny in the United States has a diameter of 19mm.  The dimensions of the sensor on your 70 d are about 15mm of height of 22.5 mm wide.

  This means that if you took a picture of a US penny to the size of the scale 1:1, then the penny would simply * sentence * adjustment in the horizontal direction, but would fit in the dimension vertical (a little of the penny would be cropped).

  If the objective was only able to scale 1:2 (half), the penny would be would seem smaller.

  There is no strict definition of 'macro', but purists would generally not consider a goal like being a macro lens 'real' unless he could handle the 1:1 scale.  There are many uses General telephoto zoom lenses that have range macro (a claim asserted by the marketing department).  This close-up range generally allows a maximum size of 1:4 scale perhaps (and sometimes not even that great.)

  There is a whole world of close-up photography techniques and many techniques do not use a macro lens.

  Macro lenses generally tend to have detail particularly high ability to solve.

• SX50 macro settings, does not?

  I have a SX50 camera that I bought about four months ago. I'm not knowledgeable about camera, so I hope my question makes sense! I'm wanting to explore closeup photography of flowers, but cannot get the camera to focus for this. I am using the macro on the AUTO adjustment feature, but or by turning the dial or press the 'left' arrow key (macro) brings up the option on the screen. (In fact, in the car, I find that only the turn of button/dial 'top' and the 'real' button/dial turning, works not at all - I have no option of either ISO or a macro.) Is this normal?)

  I would be grateful for any advice.

  LimePickle.

  I recently bought one too but have not put to use again, BUT I tried it. It works in P that I strongly recommend to Auto for what anyone where you do not want total control. Use P, learn Exposure Compensation and Flash Exposure Compensation & you'll be on your way to better pictures. (He did not allow Macro in auto mode).