Mode of film Canon sx50

Similar Questions

• When you use a power adapter ACK - Kapaxen on Canon SX50 DC80, how you close / battery?

  Power supply AC Kapaxen ACK-DC80 with Canon SX50.

  How do you close for device battery door will work?

  1 million thanks! Didn't even notice that. Just went through the manual and found it. Thanks again, John!

• Canon SX50 HS

  Hi everyone ;-)

  I bought a Canon SX50 HS and were able to take some beautiful pictures of the Moon and Mars last night. I am a complete novice and can not understand how to adjust the aperture or ISO and if one of them is the shutter speed?

  I read magazines on the shooting of the waterfalls with a value of f to f/32, but when I look at my settings it only goes until 8?

  Ideas you would know that I have a day soon to Niagara Falls and here a few good shots - this is why I bought the camera in the first place ;-) Thanks John

  For plans of the waterfall, the most important settings for you would be to use shutter priority, cannon called Tv on the dial for value of time, and the value about 1/4 of a second. Use an ISO of about 100 or 200 and leaving the camera to adjust the aperture. Use a tripod to avoid the camera shake and turn off the Image stabilization when using the tripod. This will give you the silky look on the falls, while keeping the rest of the strong enough photo. I hope that this contributor John answer that question because he has this camera and should have more accurate parameters to use. Whatever it is, you may need to try a bit of tweaking of the shutter speed depending on the light, it's when you picture of the grave, but try and keep the shutter open for a slower if possible value. just try several times until you are satisfied with the results.

  Steve

• Are Canon SX50 - programming (with RAW) mode you able to review the photo after you take it?

  Just bought my camera and have carefully read the manual.  I want to work in program mode, so that I can shoot in RAW.  However, I can't seem to figure out what combo of menus and functions, I can use so that I can get a review of my photo after consider.  This feature works well in Auto Mode - but in Auto Mode, I can't shoot in RAW.  Anyone?

  Thank you

  You should be able to press the control button to the right of the optical viewfinder to view images, regardless of what you are in the mode. It does not matter if the image is so RAW or JPEG. I assume that you entered in the menu and ensures that you do not have the exam put off.

  Steve M.

• More small resolution of RAW photos in video mode of the Canon 5 d Mk III

  I have my using Canon 5 d mk3 under the MULTIROTor. So I have no possibility to change the position of the buttons during the flight. By wireless remote control, I have the ability to record movies and take pictures, but only when I'm on the movie mode. If I change to photo mode I lost ability to save movies. The problem is that the pictures taken in video mode has lower resolution. The top and bottom of the image is cropped when I open the software in different RAW RAW files I full resolution in Adobe Camera RAW processing photos are cropped I have Photoshop CS 5 and ACR 6.7.1 is a soltion to this? I tried to convert CR2 files to DNG, but it did not help

  Adobe has added a 'Original Culture' function starting with LR 4.2 and 7.2 ACR which might help you if your camera is newer, but the cameras released before so cannot use it, and your 5D.3 is one of these models.

  Adobe did release a LR plugin called Adobe DNG recover Edge that will make things better for older cameras by making a DNG copy that has no culture behind closed doors applied.  Here is a page of help on this:

  https://helpx.Adobe.com/Lightroom/KB/Canon-5d-Mark-III-images.html

• Someone knows when PSE10 will be able to edit the RAW of Canon SX50 files?

  It seems strange that none of the cameras from that series is compatible with RAW in PSE10, I wanted to get the SX50, but it would be a real disappointment if I can't use RAW.  All ideas, a buzz about why Adobe is not support the SX50?

  Thank you

  Thank you.

• Why CS5 won't open the raw files from my Canon SX50 HS?

  I always get errors like: "the DNG conversion failed" and "file seems to be a model of camera that is not supported by the installed version of Camera Raw", even if I downloaded Adobe DNG Converter 7.3. What I need to do?

  blcash wrote:

  I always get errors like: "the DNG conversion failed" and "file seems to be a model of camera that is not supported by the installed version of Camera Raw," even if I downloaded Adobe DNG Converter 7.3. What should I do?

  You are right in that the camera has been initially supported by Camera Raw 7.3 (and DNG converter 7.3) but CS5 is compatible with Camera Raw up to version 6.7.

  So, you will never be able to open this camera Raw files directly in CS5. To do this, you must either CS6 or any version of cloud.

  If you have downloaded the DNG Converter, try the latest version 9.1.1.

  The DNG Converter is a stand-alone utility. It is not used with CS5 somehow.

  Try Camera Raw: how to use Adobe DNG Converter - YouTube

• 11 is not recognizing my Canon SX50

  Help, please. I have the converter 7.3, but that did not work. When I go to import the files, it says that they are not compatible. I hope someone knows the answer. Thank you.

  Looks like I got it.

• Definition of my HS SX50 to shoot in RAW

  Having decided to try using RAW rather than JPG images, I turned to my user manual to set my Canon SX50 SH to shoot in RAW. According to the instructions from the manual, page 146, my camera seems to be missing some of the options.
  It says to press the func button, followed by JPG set / RAW but I have these options available after the adjustment knob by pressing the func key.
  I have 1) ' shot') 2 3) 4) movie setting size image format
  those are the only choices. According to the manual there should be a lot more in this menu
  Can you help me?

  What shooting mode, you are, RAW is not available in Auto, Movie Digest or mode of the sports scene.

  It is available in P, Tv, Av and M modes

• Viewfinder sx50 hs

  Hi I just got my canon sx50 Hs yesterday. I tried to use it and the viewfinder looks black. There is nothing is not displayed. Is broken / defective? Or it has not been implemented yet? Can u pls help me. Thank you

  You need to check the manual to fully understand all the uses / info the DISP button can do / fact. Part of page 43.

  

• Import of the 'show preview' device does not work for RAW (Canon T1i/500 d)

  Hello

  Not sure if anyone else has seen this.  I just got a canon T1i (500 d for you Europeans).  When I connect the camera to the computer and select Import device and select "Preview" in the import window, only JPEG images to display thumbnails.  All my RAW images appear as grey areas.  It is the first digital SLR, I've ever owned, and the first time I am really using lightroom.  It's killing my workflow plans, as I ususally upload images into folders and appoint, by category.  Without seeing the thumbnails, it is impossible to know which category what images belong to.

  Anywone have ideas?  This happens with all RAW images on all cameras?  Is this a problem T1i?

  Thank you.

  w0den

  As John said, use a card reader for added speed, data security and flexibility. However, if you use a direct connection to your camera under windows, your camera must be in mass storage (called PC connection menu canons USB) mode. Some Canon DSLRs do not have a mass storage mode (Canon booh!) and you'll see never seen in the Lightroom Import dialog box.

• Flashlights

  Hello, please advice me for a flashlight to my camera Canon sx50 hs power?

  Hot shoe of the camera is compatible with all Canon Speedlite flash units currently marketed as well as a number of hot flashes is no longer marketed (e.g. they do not actively sell the Speedlite 580EX II... but it works with it).

  The model number of the flash tells you "Guide number" as the flash in meters.  For example the 270EX II has a "guide number" of 27 meters.  The 430EX II is a "guide number" 43-metre (omit just the last "0" in the model number and that is the "guide number").

  A "guide number" is a scenario of the industry standard benchmark to measure the distance a proper illuiminate can flash a topic.  But as the amount of light collected by the camera depends on your exposure settings, the reference level of ISO 100 and f/1.0 (opening size) is supposed to.  What do you _really_ is divide the distance "guide number" by the (opening) diaphragm of the lens and it is the real distance that flash can handle.

  For example: the Speedlite 430EX II is a 'guide numbrer' 43 meters or approximately 141 feet.  But this is at f/1.  Your camera can't shoot at f/1 (no one does a f/1 lens).

  When your device is fully zoom-in (maximum magnification) lens has a report f / d of f/6.5.  So, you would divide by 6.5 141 feet.  This gives you a distance of just over 21 feet (21.7).  If your camera is fully zoomed-out (wide angle) the report f / d is improving and the f-stop can go as low as f/3.4.  So, you would divide 141 feet by 3.4 and gives you a distance of about 41.5 feet (the distance is better because the diaphragm opening is larger, which means that it can collect more light).

  All this has been for the Speedlite 430EX II.  It is a 320EX and a 270EX II who are both much smaller and more compact... but also less powerful.

  One last thing... when a flash is pointed DIRECTLY at your subject, you get a difficult "flat" lighting.  The object don't throw no shadows, because the flash is close to the lens (so the shadows are all hiding behind your subject where the camera can't really see them.)  Good lighting includes good shadows and also the shadows which have a flexible transition from the edge clear dark rather than a well-defined shadow.  While the detached flash is fantastic, an easy solution for flash on the camera is to "bounce" the flash on the ceiling.  This works if (a) you are on the inside, (b) ceiling is not too high (otherwise, the distance to bounce back is too far and you return very little light) and (c) the ceiling is a pretty neutral white (if the ceiling is painted a different color than the ceiling color is tinged light.)

  The reason why I have noticed this is because when you "bounce" the flash, you get a look more attractive, but the light must go much further than if you point the flash directly on the subject and also not a 100% of the light is reflected... you lose a lot of light.  For this reason, it is RECOMMENDED a flash that is more powerful than you can imagine.

  A 270EX II will work well for bounce IF your topic is not very far away (for example subjects inside in about 10').  If you're at an event... it's a big room, your subject is further... the 270EX II will be strong enough.

  The OTHER time it's GREAT to use a flash is outdoors in full sun.  This may seem strange... but the Sun is SO bright that the shadows it casts are VERY dark.  Shooting a person, for example, gives you an exhibition where the positive side of their face is very bright, and yet, the shadows are very dark.  It's much nicer when the highlight of their young side is only slightly brighter side shadow.  To resolve this problem, using the flash outdoors in full sun as a 'fill' flash.  I prefer lower the power of the flash just a bit... to '-1' setting (you can adjust it in increments of 1/3 of).  It really improves the look of outdoor photos.

  The menu on your SX50 will have an external speedlite section that allows you to adjust the power levels of the speedlite.

  I own a 270EX II, a 430EX, a 580EX II and two 600EX-RT Speedlites.  I use the 270EX II with my body of Powershot G series, but only as a 'fill' outdoor flash or a Flash inner bouncing to illuminate subjects in about 10' away.  For more general use where subjects could be much further, I use the 430 models and more... especially when you use the flash with light-modifiers to soften the appearance of the light.

• Trigger voltage for former strobes on the new digital cameras

  Can someone tell me what's the trigger voltage TO a Canon SX50 HS point & shoot, My Sunpack 611

  (4800 OSP) has about 43vdc on contacts at full load, it will be something frying?

  I'm afraid I have no idea what can handle a SX50...

  I know that the older Canon SLR and perhaps the first DSLRs have been noted only for 6 volts. SLR digital current Canon are valued at 250 volts, at least since the period of 40 days, I think. Maybe sooner, but I do not know at what time, Canon has improved the SLR/DSLR line to manage a higher voltage.

  Point n shoot, however, I have no idea and don't know where to find them. You could try emailing support Canon directly. (This forum occasionally sees Canon reps and technicians down, but are mainly Canon users and fans to help each other better possible.)

  There is a Web site that shows the flash firing voltages, but which is absolutely not a complete list or a severe test of those on the list. It lists the Sunpak 611, but shows a later, a trial to have the trigger voltage of 4 volts, then as an older one was much higher at 190 volts. (I assume that you have measured your own with a VOM 611).

  So, I'm not really help a lot. Check Canon support about the features of your camera trigger voltage. If you are always worried about it, you can use something like a Wein SafeSync to protect the camera from the excessive trigger voltage. Or use the flash off camera with a radio trigger (but be aware that radio triggers often have a limit of trigger voltage, too... some I recently watched are evaluated at 24 or 30 volts).

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• 6 d flash sync problem. Flash not pertaining to the body? Firmware problem? User error?

  I was shooting my 6 d today in the Aviary. I think I was in TV mode. My Canon speedlite 320EX. I had been shooting with the flash but turned on. The shutter was set at 1/400th. ISO has been, I know, yet the value of the last room, I was, which was dark, also is at 3200 ISO.

  All the birds represented were whole animals actually; no half-birds were nowhere to be seen.

  In any case, the camera could not reduce the shutter on the camera's maximum sync speed (1/180) as you expect it to do. As a result, the flash was clearly out of sync with the shutter.

  In addition, the metadata says "flash not fire not'.»» But obviously he did fire.

  This could be a firmware issue? Bad camera? I forget some obvious user error?

  

  

  Assuming that flash & camera is 100% compatible (new models of organs aren't always happy with older strobes) AND based on the few problems that I had with my 1Ds2 & 580 EX maybe it's that the flash is not as far forward in the hot shoe as possible, or even if it is it does not connections PERFECT on all 5 terminals. I had this problem a few times & are looking for now it. If I do not get the result that I'm waiting on my test shots (to check exposure), I move & re adjust until I get the right result.

• 5 d MkIII. D 5 triggers flash or inconsistent shutter static onstage.

  Test my new ABF-800 flash with my 5 D MkIII. Settings of 5 d on M, sync flash by power cord. The 5 d arbitrarily decides to trigger the shutter & flash or not and even trigger not shutter at certain times, with no changes in the scene. Any ideas of what's going on?

  On a 5 d III, you can replace a large number of stuf you can't control on other boxes.  But in general... If the camera is in One Shot mode and AF is enabled on the lens, then the camera will NOT take the shot until it can confirm that it was able to lock focus at least one area of focus.

  If a dedicated Canon flash flash was in the shoe, the AF assistance light beam is (once again... by default but it can be disabled) to help the development of camera (it casts a light distribution on the subject that the camera can easily block on and focus.)

  Since you have a 5 d III (so those who might be reading this who do not have this same camera body - ignore this, because your camera will not have this definition) follow these steps:

  Press Menu

  Go to magenta 'AF' tab page 3 (there are 5 subpages in the AF section... you want to the 3e)

  Navigate down to select which reads "One-shot AF release prior." (it's the release priority setting), then press the Set"" button.

  It will show two options... 'Libération' and 'Focus' - change to 'Release' and press the 'Set' button (and whatever you do... DO NOT FORGET THAT YOU CHANGE this or you you'll regret later.)

  What you have done is changed the camera to "Priority Focus" to "release shutter priority.  Here's what this means:

  Normally, when you're in one-shot mode (and most Canon bodies work this way), the camera is in mode 'Put priority to the point'.  That means that when press you the shutter button completely to take a picture, the unit computer photo says that the most important factor is to ensure that the image is FOCUSED... BEFORE the shooting.  The camera takes really the shot by the time the shutter button is pressed completely - he waits until it can confirm that it has locked focus at least one area of focus.  In a lot of light, this all happens very quickly.   However... If the camera cannot lock focus at all (lack of contrast, not enough light), no beam for accent-assistance to the rescue, etc. etc. then it will actually refuse to take the picture... it'll be like the unit is defective (it isn't... it did what it said to do that is not take a picture until it can confirm the first update.)

  When a Canon camera's AI Servo (other agencies Canon - not your 5 d III) mode, the camera is changed to "release priority".  It means that the computer in the camera is said to take the picture as soon as you press the shutter button... COMPLETELY and it will, if it was over the focus or not (and it is VERY important that remember you that.)  In this mode it is yours for only half-press (or if you have reassigned the button of the development of a "back" button) to ensure the update is completely before pressing the button completely.  There are reasons why you would like a camera behaves this way - often in a situation you may have worn before the camera anticipating the action and the most important is to take the picture at this "decisive moment."

  On your 5 d III, you can actually change the priority of the release shutter or developed by the settings in menu and it will work regardless of whether the device is in "One Shot" vs mode "HAVE Focus".

  But do not forget that you changed it... or the next time you're out somehwere and fully press the button, you'll end up with blurry photos because the camera will think that you just decided to skip the update because you knew what you were doing (and which can be annoying when you come back with a whole bunch of soft hits.)