Models in Frame 12

Similar Questions

• Questions about the models in Frame 12

  I'm working on a book that will become an ebook.

  I chose as my point of departure of the "user's Guide" and can't do the cover, legal, Contacts, table of contents and Index changed, so I imported a copy of the chapter of my entire document. I haven't started with an emty file because there is no room for the text start; Instead, I clicked "Sample Show" and then deleted the contents of files on the body of the page.

  I cannot change the properties of the object of the main stream on the master pages to remove the heads side room. Or rather, I can remove the heads side on the master page, but when I go back to body pages, the file does not update. No, I wonder if I want to apply/no apply master page formats.

  Thanks in advance.

  Sideheads is a document-level property and should be turned off using the Format > Page Layout > columns... menu option and uncheck the option 'Room for heads side' at the top of the Panel.

• By script question Patterns - frame photo and tree

  Hello

  I have some problems to use the fill > model > models scripted. What happens is when I open the list of scripted, the two models 'picture frame' and 'Tree' appear disabled.

  Someone knows how to fix this?

  Thanks in advance.

  You need the GPU acceleration for this feature.  Check the thread below and links FAQ

  Re: Frame picture and grey trees

  http://helpx.Adobe.com/Photoshop/KB/Photoshop-CS6-GPU-FAQ.html

• How to transfer frames to anchor graphics frames.

  Hi all

  Here's the old situation:

  • Many old documents where all the graphics are placed in frames not anchored "ordinary".
  • graphics are all scaled and positioned differently in executives

  New location:

  • new model, where all graphs should be placed in anchored frames

  Question: what is the fastest way to get all the graphics of old documents (free frames) in the new model anchored frames?

  I tried a number of things that DO not work:

  • graph of the copy of the original frame > try to paste into the anchored frame
  • incl. graphic. former executives of copy in the new document, then tried to drag the chart in the new framework
  • has looked for a way to change regular executives to the frames on some sort of menu, don't find.

  Do I really have to re-import, scaling and place each image individually?

  Hoping someone has a good idea what to do!

  Thank you!

  Cut the original graphic frame (image and all) and paste it into your text block.

  Place it where you want. I find and then create an object style when it is anchored and positioned to help.

  Continue to cut and paste the graphic images in the text frame and then apply the style and keep it going.

• Body of L ' goal and EOS Rebel T3i

  I asked a lot of questions here, haha.
  But I'm here with another question. So, I did a little research on the net about the use of the ' goal with a t3i and quite a few people say that they work well together? So objective L are not recommended for EOS Rebel bodies? Can someone explain this to me please.
  I recently bought the T3i and I want just a good lens. Preference for landscape photos. I'm also a few sports, low light and portrait photos.
  Suggestions for the landscape and all around the lens of photography would be great ():

  For landscape photography people often want to use a lens wide angle. Not always, there is no rule that says you can't use anything else. I say "it's usually the first thing that comes to mind

  One of the best wide angles that you get to use on a T3i is the Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM. It is not an 'L' but it doesn't matter.

  I suspect that what you have said about the use of an L series lens is due to the factor of cropping of your device photo, as has been suggested by several other responses. L - series will work fine on your camera, but all L-series lenses are models 'full frame', by definition. Therefore, none of the L will be particularly wide angle on your camera. So, when people hear 'landscape', they suggest something else that a L-series.

  You have four different purposes: landscape, sport, low light and portrait. The whole point of a DSLR as your T3i is to be able to Exchange lenses, to be able to adjust the camera for use in different situations. So I would say not to try to do it with a lens, but to look more lenses (some of which are Ls), which should ultimately give you better results. For example...

  Wide angle landscape: EF-S 10-22mm.

  Sport: 70-200/4, 70-200 / 4L, 70-200/2.8, 70-200 / 2.8 L IS II, 100-400 L IS, 300/4 L IS.

  Low light: 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, IS 35/2, 50/1.4, 50/1.8 II, 85/1.8.

  Portrait (Frank): 50/1.4, 85/1.8.

  Portrait (studio): EF - S 15-85 IS, the EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L, 24-70/4 IS, 24-70 / 2.8 L II.

  Portrait (environment): 20/2.8, 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, 35/2 IS.

  Versatile lens 'walk-around': EF-S 15-85 is... or, according to what the other lenses you get, EF - S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS or EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L IS, 24-70 / 4L IS, 24-70 / 2.8 L II.

  There are many different ways to set up a lens kit. For example, maybe you just like a wide point of view than the 10-22mm for your landscape photography. If so, instead, you can choose the lens EF-S 15-85 mm as wide enough and because it can double as a walkaround lens and can even be useful for some portraits.

  A 'minimum' kit I often hang out with a camera of harvest is: 10-22mm, 28-135 IS, 300/4 IS w / 1. 4 X teleconverter and a Tamron 60/2.0 macro/portrait.

  When I'm shooting, what I do for the most part with crop sensor cameras, I usually wear: 10-22 mm and 24-70/2.8, but my most used lenses are the IS 70-200/2.8 and 300/4 IS. (In some cases I use also 70 - 200/4 IS and 300/2.8 IS).

  For the portrait with a crop sensor camera, my favorite lenses are: 28/1.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8 and 135/2. Especially the 50mm and 85mm.

  Your camera can use all the EF-S and EF, including all of the L-series lenses. But just because a lens will fit and work does not mean it is the best choice for your application. In some cases buying a full frame capable lens for your camera will be useless... FF lenses can be bigger, heavier and more expensive... but not really give you the best performance, maybe even less. For example, a 16-35 / 2.8 L II is a wonderful goal on a FF camera, but it makes little sense to buy for use on a device of harvest. For less money, you can either get a lens that is really wide (EF-S 10-22mm), or a lens that offers a little wider range of focal lengths and IS (EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS) has.

  Depth of field in fact is not directly conducted by sizes of sensors of different cameras. What changes in depth of field are: focal length, Aperture and the distance about the goal. If you are looking for the low depth of field (blur a background for a portrait, for example), it takes a large aperture and a longer lens... and more you are close to the material the more shallow depth of field will be. If, however, you want lots of depth of field (for a landscape shot, for example), you want to use a smaller aperture and a shorter focal length... and more you are from the individual (within reasonable limits), will be the deepest depth of field.

  Where full-frame sensor vs cultures comes into force now is that for the same subject, framing with a crop sensor, that we need to stand further away with a given focal length, or if the same shooting distance will use a shorter focal length. In both cases, the result is 'less' depth of field, but it is an indirect result of different sensor size.

  Have fun shopping and learning about your new camera!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• About T3I EF lenses

  I just want to know if my calculations are correct on this point. This is the focal point of equavalent of some privileged lenses EF on the T3i. I multiply by 1.6 x culture right?

  24mm EF would be 38mm
  30mm EF would be 48 mm
  85mm EF would be 136mm

  Is that correct or should I go?

  Kolourl3lind wrote:

  I was wrong. BY EOS, I meant ARE full frame camera and not Cameras EOS Rebel EF-S.

  Also, pass my T3I and 6 d very often when I photograph an event. Photographed it hard when I don't have the same point of view using the same lens wiith each camera.  What I'm trying to do is buy a first decent Wideangle to fit on the T3i. This will allow me use the T3i just for wide angle of shooting at a focal distance and get photos decent quaility compared to 6 J using a zoom lens.

  It's the best configuration, I can think that it's just easier for us my 6 d lenses and switch instead to carry two cameras.

  Well, now it is more clear what you are doing, and you go back between the two formats.

  However, he has very little of primes that are ultra wide on a full frame and still very broad camera on a culture's APS - C sensor. 24mm is a good wide angle on a full frame camera, but only behaves like a slightly large 'normal' when used on a crop sensor camera. I have and use a Canon EF 20 mm... fairly wide on full frame. It's nice, but only a moderately wide lens (32mm FF equivalent) on a sharecropper.

  There are Canon 14 mm (origin and Mark II). And there is a manual focus only Zeiss 15 mm ZE. There are also a few glasses of 17mm. These are quite expensive, however. And, in a culture a 17mm camera sensor is only moderately wide.

  In the past the Tamron and Sigma made 14mm full frame compatible lenses. Those who were of an image quality questionable and abandoned several years ago... so will be available used, if you can find them.

  There is also a 14mm Samyang/Rokinon lens which is full frame compatible and affordable, but the update manual and operation manual only, so more time to work with. It sells for a little over $ 300 and also lie in Bower, dotted, ProOptic, Vivitar and other brand names (Vivitar called 13mm, even if it's the same lens.) This lens has strong "mustache" distortion, but there is software that can correct.

  Another possible consideration, all 14, 15mm and many the 17 mm... and some of the largest of the full frame capable ultra wide angle zoom, too... tend to have front lens elements very strongly convex which allow not the standard to mount vissants filters.

  There are simply not many really wide Prime lenses for crop sensor cameras. And most of the primes and zooms that are wide on FF, are only slightly or moderately wide on culture.

  If you want to use the lens wide angle on the T3i onlycrop sensor, there are a few good zooms you should really consider.

  Canon recently introduced an EF-S 10-18mm IS STM lens which is a real bargain priced at $300 and even less for sale currently. I have not yet used, but have heard a lot of good reports. No, is not as sharp edge on board as others, but it is quite surprisingly good for the price (which is at least $100 less than any other ultra wide-angle zoom... $200 or more at most).

  Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM has been around for a few years, sells for about $650, and in my opinion is one of the best ultrawides to cultures of any manufacturer photo sensor. It is very well fixed, strong side by side with well controlled chromatic aberration, reasonably good quality of construction, able to use the standard 77mm filter and has exceptionally good flare control.

  Sigma offers two versions of 10-20mm and the widest of all in a 8-16 mm. A 10-24 mm Tamron. Tokina has offered the fastest in a 11-16/2.8, but also a 12-24/4, (which are now discontinued, but can still be found). Tokina is currently introducing new models of 11 - 20/2.8 and 12-28/4.

  However, all of the above zooms are 'just culture' (at least on a technical level, see below).

  If you want to use the lens on your T3i and 6 d...

  Canon of nine 11-24 2.8 L / would work fine... but is very expensive (almost $3000).

  Sigma offers a 12-24mm, which is full frame and crop sensor compatible. It is rather expensive and has one important of distortion.

  There are various 16-28mm, 16-35mm, 17-35mm, 17-40mm which are full-frame compatible... tho, all this is just moderately wide on the T3i culture.

  An interesting possiblitity... I can tell you for certain that a Tokina 12-24/4 is a good lens on cameras of the harvest, and that it is partially usable on full frame. I tested it as wide as 17 or 18 mm on my 5DII, until it begins to show the vignetting. I understand the Tokina 11-16/2.8 is usable on FF, too... but only she is put in 16mm. (I haven't used so can't say on the two new models of Tokina.)

  FOR INFO:

  Colloquial for Canon EOS Digital cameras is "APS - C / 1.6 X crop" and "full frame / 1.0 X.

  Or just 'crop sensor', 'culture' or 'cropper' vs 'full frame' or 'FF '.

  Canon lenses are ' EF/full frame compatible' or 'EF-S/APS-C only of cultures '.  Only Canon's EF-S objectives using a variation on the EF mount, designed to not allow lenses to physically join the cameras 'incompatible '.

  There is no "ES" or even "EF" cameras and few people to refers to «Caméras EF - S» That's because the cameras APS - C or crop can use both EF and EF-S objectives... While the cameras full frame can only objective EF of use. Objective EF - S will rise not yet physically on the camera models full frame as your 6 d (nor on the third cannon used to provide format: APS - H or 1.3 X.hich also EF lenses require).

  Home objective third-party manufacturers there are not EF-S-objectives. Sigma, Tokina and Tamron all only use EF mount, regardless. Although they may be possible to mount on a camera full frame, many glasses they offer always are "cultures only"... They do not produce an image circle large enough to cover the entire surface of a full frame sensor, it will strongly vignette. Yet some work partially (as indicated above).

  Canon EF, "Di" of Tamron, Tokina "FX" and "DG" lenses Sigma are all sensor full frame and compatible cultures.

  Canon EF-S, 'Di II' Tamron and Tokina "DX" Sigma "DC" lenses are all cultures only.

  I hope this helps!

  ***********

  Alan Myers
  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & EXPOSUREMANAGER

• AE jump the last image

  The current-time indicator never happens on the last frame of the composition.

  If the publication has 560 frames, CTI get only the 559 framework.

  It's good behavior because ICT shows you always the start time of the next frame to play and the displaus of Panel model that frame. If you have moved to 560 ICT that you would look at the time of start of frame 561.

  That's how all the video and audio apps work. Always have.

• RAM CS5 preview is slow if I do other things while it is building

  Hello!

  I have a strange question.  1080/29.97 model on an 8-core w / 16GB.  Multi-process rendering is turned off.

  If I RAM preview of the model (800 frames or almost) and wait while AE RAM preview builds, it reads very well and speed.

  If I start the RAM Preview, then go work in Photoshop while it is building, then return to AE and the attempt to minimize, I have the normal green bar as a RAM Preview, but he plays very slowly - almost as if he is re-rendering of each image (actually slower than if I just hit the SPACEBAR to display and play on the fly)... maybe 1fps.  If I stop and play frames it is trudging through, then they play normally.

  Is it possible that the RAM Preview while I use another application (for example, Photoshop) translates executives wrote to swap the disk or elsewhere so that they you read into RAM when I actually try to play?  Disk cache is disabled in the AE preferences, but...?

  Thanks in advance for any ideas - very annoying.

  > Is it possible that the RAM Preview while I use another application (for example, Photoshop) translates writing frameworks for exchanging the drive or elsewhere so that they you read into RAM when I actually try to play?

  Yes. It is possible.

  Remember that you are reserving enough RAM for other applications.

• I need help download microsoft NET frame model 2.0 on my computer so that my Lexmark 5500 printer will not work correctly.

  I need help download microsoft NET frame model 2.0 on my computer so that my Lexmark 5500 printer will not work correctly.  Please call me at the

  Thank you
  John Robinson

  Original title: hardware device

  The lies of failure with your method of installation of the drivers / software, you install using a Lexmark CD or download from Lexmark support?

  http://support.Lexmark.com/index?ProductCode=LEXMARK_PRO5500&page=product&locale=en&UserLocale=en_US#2

  NB there is also a firmware update

• Poster frames does not not in the model still

  Hi, I am creating a DVD and use the "trip Multipage Menu" and "Submenu Multipage trip" still models. I'll put my chapter menu using two of the submenus MultiPage. I could put my poster frames to use as thumbnails for the first three images on every page of submenu. For some reason any the last "polaroid" thumbnail does not display the appropriate image. It is just left blank. I'm following the steps I did for the other 6 but for some reason any the last vignette "polaroid" on each page remains empty after setting the poster frame. Y at - it sort of setting that I am missing or error that I do. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

  -Nick

  'Multipage' menus contain more than one 'page' menu in a file single psd (photoshop format). For a DVD, they are converted to the menus page ordinary, simple, but can cause problems if you don't really understand what you are doing with them. You can have a lot of menus - just use one page ones.

  Each chapter has already a poster frame. Change the poster frame does nothing for your link. The exception is a blank poster image will not appear.

• where can I get the frames model C7671B transparency adapter

  Could someone send me the steps so I can do a set of images of model for my C7671B transparency adapter?

  I have them off e - bay... Thank you!

• How do I model for landscape with 5 frames 10 PE?

  In items 10, I try to get a page layout landscape with 5 photos.  It appears as a choice in the layout, but when he selected is a portrait with 5 photos.  The page can not be rotated, believe me I tried!  It existed in items 9 but not in the 10 items.  Can someone tell me how to make a simple model of the landscape with 5 images so it deletes the photos to me?  My fingers are crossed.  Thank you!  CJSM

  You try to create a collage? PES 10 that it is simpler to ignore simply create and make your own template file in the editor. Create an empty file the size you want to the desired IPP, then add executives in the content panel. Save it as something like "five_photo_template". You will need to add photos every time, but you will need to do in create, too, since the 10 PSE photo collage place automatically all open.

• Upgrade my iMac 10.1 (late 2009 model)

  My family loves our iMac 10.1 (model) end 2009.  We want to move him to a better performance in speed (recently very slow using iphoto, imovie, and web browsing) and capacity (500 G HDD is occupied 85%).  There are 3 areas I want to do the upgrade.  Enjoy for some recommendation or sharing other users

  1. will join 12 G 4 G RAM (because want to keep the original 2 x 2 G). I'll add 2 x 4 G RAM.  Should what model of RAM I buy?

  2. I want to improve the disk from 500 G to 1 T.  I don't know I can't DIY after checking the You Tube.  Apple is offering this upgrade services? There are a few computer shops can do the job but I hesitate

  3. due to the improvement of capacity RAM and HARD drive, I need to update my old Snow Leopard OS to more recent and reliable version.  Should I go straight to the latest version (EL Capitan)? This new OS version will drag my old iMac to be very slow?

  Configuration of my iMac 10,1(21.5")

  -3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo

  -4 GB 1067 MHz DDR3

  -OS X: 10.6.8

  Thanks for your sharing in advance

  For the record, I like data memory systems,

  http://www.datamemorysystems.com/Apple-iMac-Intel-memory-upgrades/

  If you replace the hard drive, a new probably won't a temp sensor built in.

  https://eShop.MacSales.com/item/OWC/DIDIMACHDD09/

  If you replace the hard drive, I would use a 3-4 Western Digital Black terabyte, or an other calculation SSD world

  SSD 240 and Kit tools and temperature sensor,

  https://eShop.MacSales.com/shop/SSD/OWC/iMac-21.5-inch/late-2009

  4 terabyte black

  http://www.Newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16822235128

  disassembly of the iMac,

  https://www.iFixit.com/Guide/iMac+Intel+21.5-inch+EMC+2308+hard+drive+Replacemen t/1766

  Take your time, once you remove the screw, slide a book between the screen and the frame, then remove the cables.  Not a lot of room to pull up, this will help you manage the space...

• Major Frame Drops after 5-10 minutes

  Hello world

  I'm really frustrated here, I'm a game developer, and I use the GPU in almost all cases, from Photoshop to unity still play games myself. Since the last update 10.11.4 I have this huge problem , and everything I do will not disappear.

  Whenever I run an application / game that rotates with GPU I get spikes massive lag and thus Frame Drops, they last about 1 seconds but they occur every 30 seconds - 1 minute, this is a huge deal for me and I can't really work like that. Of course, I put photoshop to the CPU usage for now and no problems. But I really need to work efficiently and without Frame Drops.

  I run at El Capitan with a Macbook Pro LATE 2013 10.11.4 @.

  2 GHz Intel Core i7 (CPU)

  8 GB 1600 MHz DDR3 (RAM)

  Intel Pro Iris 1536 MB (GPU)

  Before someone says I should have got the Nvidia gpu, I should mention that I tried on 2 games to 1 which I played with ease previously:

  Hand of fate

  The Witcher: Enhanced Edition

  Please if someone else has the same problem, make sure that post you here. It bothers me that I have not found anything about the case.

  I also ran an EtreCheck if anyone is interested:

  EtreCheck version: 2.9.11 (264)
  Report generated 2016-04-16 15:29:41
  Download EtreCheck https://etrecheck.com TIME 01:31
  Performance: Excellent

  Click the [Support] links to help with non-Apple products. Click the [details] links for more information on this line.

  : Another problem
  Description:
  Whenever I use an application that uses GPU or if I play a game, I get large Frame drops after 5-10 minutes in application t.

  Hardware information:
  MacBook Pro (retina, 15 inches, end of 2013)
  [Technical details] - [User Guide] - [warranty & Service] MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro11, 2
  1 2 GHz Intel Core i7 CPU: 4 strands
  8 GB RAM not extensible

  BANK 0/DIMM0
  OK 4 GB DDR3 1600 MHz

  BANK 1/DIMM0
  OK 4 GB DDR3 1600 MHz

  Bluetooth: Good - transfer/Airdrop2 taken in charge Wireless: en0: 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac
  Battery: Health = battery check - Cycle count = 460

  Information about this video: Intel Iris Pro

  Color LCD 2880 x 1800

  System software:
  OS X El Capitan 10.11.4 (15E65) - since the starting time: 4 hours

  Disc information:
  SM0256F SSD APPLE disk0: (251 GB) (Solid State - TRIM: Yes)

  EFI (disk0s1) < not mounted >: 210 MB

  Recovery HD (disk0s3) < not mounted > [recovery]: 650 MB

  Macintosh HD (disk 1) /: 249.79 (GB free 65.99) encrypted AES XTS unlocked
  Storage of carrots: disk0s2 250.14 GB Online

  USB information:
  Apple Inc. Apple keyboard / Trackpad

  1. the present proceedings is a diagnostic test. It doesn't change anything for the better or worse and therefore, by itself, will not solve the problem. But with the help of the results of the tests, the solution may take a few minutes, instead of hours or days.

  The test works on OS X 10.8 ("Mountain Lion") and later versions. I do not recommend running it on older versions of Mac OS X. It will do no harm, but it will not do not much good.

  Do not be put off by the complexity of these instructions. The process is much less complicated than the description. You make the tasks more complicated with the computer all the time.

  2. If you do not already have a current backup, please back up all the data before doing anything else. The backup is needed on the general principle, not because of what anyone in the test procedure. Backup is always a must, and when you encounter any kind of problems with the computer, you can be more than the usual loss of data, if you follow these instructions or risk not.

  There are ways to back up a computer that is not fully functional. Ask if you need advice.

  3 here is instructions to run a UNIX shell script, a type of program. As I wrote above, it doesn't change anything. It does not send or receive data over the network. There is no to generate a report on the State of the computer human readable. This report goes nowhere unless you choose to share it. If you prefer, you can act on it yourself without disclosing the contents for me or someone else.

  You should ask yourself if you can believe me, and if it is safe to run a program at the request of a foreign national. In general, no, he's not sure, and I encourage it.

  In this case, however, there are ways for you to decide if the program is safe without having to trust me. First of all, you can read it. Unlike an application that download you and click to start, it is transparent, anyone familiar with the code can check what it does.

  You may not be able to understand the script yourself. But variations of it have been posted on this site several times over a period of years. One of the million registered users to have read the script and set off the alarm if it was dangerous. Then I wouldn't be here now, and you would not be reading this message. See, e.g., this discussion.

  However, if you cannot satisfy yourself that these instructions are safe, do not follow them. Ask other solutions.

  4. here is a general summary of what you need to do, if you decide to go forward:

  ☞ Copy text from a particular web page (not this one) to the Clipboard.

  ☞ Paste into the window to another application.

  ☞ Wait for the test to run. It usually takes a few minutes.

  ☞ Stick the results, which will be copied automatically, in a response on this page.

  These are not specific instructions; just a glimpse. The details are in parts 7 and 8 of this comment. The sequence is: copy, paste, wait and paste it again. You don't need to copy a second time.

  5. try to test in conditions that replicate the problem, to the extent possible. For example, if the computer is slow intermittently, run the test during a downturn.

  You may have started up in safe mode. If the system is now in safe mode and works pretty well in normal mode to test run, restart as usual before running it. If you can test only in safe mode, this.

  6. If you have more than one user and a user is affected by the problem, and the user is not an administrator, and then run the test twice: once under the affected user and one administrator. The results can be different. The user that is created automatically on a new computer, when you start it for the first time is an administrator. If you are unable to log in as an administrator, verify that the user concerned. More personal Mac have only one user, and in this case this section does not apply. Don't log in as root.

  7 load the linked web page (the site "Pastebin.") Press the combination of keys command + A to select all the text, then copy it to the Clipboard by pressing command-C.

  8. start the Terminal application integrated in one of the following ways:

  ☞ Enter the first letters of his name ("Terminal") in a Spotlight search. Select from the results (it should be at the top).

  ☞ In the Finder, select go utilities ▹ of menu bar or press the combination of keys shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.

  ☞ Open LaunchPad and start typing the name.

  Click anywhere in the Terminal window to activate it. Paste from the Clipboard into the window by pressing Command + V, then press return. The text that you pasted should disappear immediately.

  9. If you logged in as an administrator, you will be prompted for your login password. Nothing displayed when you type. You won't see the usual points instead of the characters typed. Make sure that caps lock is turned off. Type carefully, and then press return. You can get a warning to be careful. If you make three unsuccessful attempts to enter the password, the test is still running, but it will produce less information. If you do not know the password, or if you prefer not to enter, just press back three times at the password prompt. Yet once again, the script will run.

  If the test takes much longer that usual to run because the computer is very slow, you can be prompted for your password a second time. The permission you grant by entering it will expire automatically after five minutes.

  If you are not logged as an administrator, you will be prompted for a password. The test will run. It just will not do anything that requires administrator privileges.

  10. the test may take a few minutes to run, depending on the number of files you have and the speed of the computer. A computer that is abnormally slow may take more time to run the test. During execution, a series of lines is displayed in the Terminal window like this:

      Test started

          Part 1 of 4 done at: … sec        …        Part 4 of 4 done at: … sec

      The test results are on the Clipboard.

      Please close this window.

  The intervals between the parties will not be exactly the same, but they give an approximate indication of progress.

  Wait for the final message "Please close this window" appear - again, usually within a few minutes. If you don't see this message in about 30 minutes, the test probably won't be completed within a reasonable time. In this case, press the Ctrl + C key combination or the point command to stop it. Then go to the next step. You will have incomplete results, but still something.

  In order to get results, the test should be allowed to perform or be stopped manually as shown above. If you close the window of the Terminal, while the test is still running, the partial results will not be saved.

  11. when the test is completed, or if you manually stopped, leaving the Terminal. The results have been saved to the Clipboard automatically. They do not appear in the Terminal window. Please do not copy from there. All you have to do is start a response to this comment and then paste it again by pressing Command-V.

  At the top of the results, there will be a line that begins with the words «Start time.» If you do not see that, but rather to see a mass of gibberish, you wait for the message "close this window". Please wait and try again.

  If personal information, such as your name or e-mail address, appear in the results, make anonymous before posting. Usually it will be not necessary.

  12. in the validation of the results, you see an error message on the web page: "you have included content in your post that is not allowed", or "the message contains invalid characters." It's a bug in the software which manages this website. Thanks for posting the results of the tests on Pastebin, then post here a link to the page you created.

  If you have an account on Pastebin, please do not select private in exposure menu to paste on the page, because no one else that you will be able to see it.

  13. When you are finished with the test, it is gone. There is nothing to uninstall or clean.

  14. This is a public forum and others can give you advice based on the results of the test. They speak for themselves, not for me. The test itself is harmless, but all that you can not be. For others who choose to run it, I do not recommend that you view the results of test on this Web site unless I ask.

  15. the related UNIX shell script is a notice of copyright. ASC readers can copy for their personal use. The whole nor any part can be redistributed.

• Replacement of the frame and hinges - HP Pavilion dm4 laptop

  I have a HP Pavilion dm4 laptop of 2.5 years. The first hinged on both sides broke that makes it harder for the laptop to close properly and now the frame is breaking apart. Is there a way I can get/buy replacements before other parts are screwed up.

  Thank you

  Yes, I also have this problem (dm4-1050ea).

  It all started on February 2015, when my aunt noticedv that my laptop was nt close properly.  It could be be made to do by pressing half upper (screen cut) to the front to the rear of the closure.

  The hinges then becomes deective that the screen don't would not SOUPLESE nd would not sit just to the place (angle) you open to.

  Following the hinges too stiff beame to exploit, came shortly after the left of the screen/lid and the window broke near the LH hinge (rather than though the bezel as shown in the image above). Then the right hinge broke off, then the screen become deective (mainly a band along the LHS - worked with detached hinges OK))

  So, I find myself with computer work, not 100% functional & broken and needs special care to use. the screen does not work in all areas (a replacement looks like £30-$50), with the virtually hanging screen, need to rplace lying hinges (£10-$15) and also nees any other bits (?) and the knowledge to fix it.  HP say they can't stand any more of this model and have no theparts (from end of 2015).

  It may be beyond the capacity of an almighty ccompany such as HP to find parts, but it does not seem beyond the my ability to get parts of - maybe-2nd hand - other HP broke! - But what I lak is kno detailed ho a skill to perform any repair.

  Videos-

  http://www.insidemylaptop.com/?s=DM4

  https://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=BphJmU5nHfA

  https://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=edxjwOXMglc

  I hope some find these useful - they're just a small selection of procedures available for repair (probably none authorized by HP that want you to throw in and buy a new model idir HP)

  Woodward

  1.March.2016