Photos with green area in the corner

Similar Questions

• By mistake I replaced a photo with another file. The miniature shows always the original photo - is anyway I can get the original of this thumbnail image?

  By mistake I replaced a photo with another file.  The thumbnail still shows the original image.  Is there anyway I can retrieve the original of this thumbnail image?

  When a file overwrites (replaces) another... the original is gone.

  This happens usually when the replacement file has the same file name
  as a file exists and that you answer Yes when the dialog box asks you if you
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  What are the exact steps you used when the file has been replaced and
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• Green area at the bottom of my dvd drive (1/2 screen)

  When making a movie in reading I get a green area on the bottom 1/2 of the screen

  Ant corrects this problem

  When making a movie in reading I get a green area on the bottom 1/2 of the screen

  Ant corrects this problem

  =========================================
  No guarantee, but it might be interesting to try to publish your
  project in DV - AVI format to a folder on your hard drive and
  then import the file .avi in DVD Maker to create the DVD...

  Windows Vista-
  Publish a movie in
  Windows Movie Maker
  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows-Vista/publish-a-movie-in-Windows-Movie-Maker

  Movie Maker Vista-
  Quality profiles / editions
  http://www.Papajohn.org/Vista-publishing.html

  And... the info... copied on the net... may be useful:

  =====

  The Green problem bar setting in Windows Movie Maker
  http://www.bernzilla.com/item.php?id=884

  When I tried to follow the directions, I was unable to find XVid on my
  computer.  So I googled XVid and then (I think) the 2nd entrance to
  Download XVid.  After I downloaded it, I could follow the directions
  bernzilla and when I published a video - Voila! no green bar!

  After thick film Green line is published
  http://www.windowsmoviemakers.NET/forums/ShowPost.aspx?PostID=105025

  =====

  Good luck...

  Volunteer - MS - MVP - Digital Media Experience J - Notice_This is not tech support_I'm volunteer - Solutions that work for me may not work for you - * proceed at your own risk *.

• Take a large green arrow in the corner of all my photo files

  Every time I have to add a photo or import any kind of image, a large greeh check appears in the corner of each. Makes it very difficult to see what the image.  I have tried everything I know to get rid of him.  I must have accidentally put it, because it wasn't always in this way. How can I get rid of him?

  Every time I have to add a photo or import any kind of image, a large greeh check appears in the corner of each. Makes it very difficult to see what the image.  I have tried everything I know to get rid of him.  I must have accidentally put it, because it wasn't always in this way. How can I get rid of him?

  ===========================================
  If you are running Norton 360 or McAfee backup online-
  MozyHome backup... the following links may be worth a visit:

  Green checkmark or icon collection blue arrows displayed files in Windows
  Explorer:
  http://www.Winhelponline.com/blog/green-tick-or-blue-arrows-icon-overlay-displayed-for-files-in-Windows-Explorer/

  If you do not need the backup indicators feature you can turn off by
  by clicking settings in the main window of Norton 360, disable the backup
  Status indicators check box and click Close.

  If you use MozyHome backup... Take a look at the following links:
  (McAfee backup online = MozyHome)

  Why the Green checkmarks or other symbols appear on my file and folder
  icons?
  http://docs.Mozy.com/docs/en-user-home-win/FAQ/concepts/commissue_green_checkmarks_c.html

  How to add or remove the MozyHome download status icons on my data
  files?
  http://docs.Mozy.com/docs/en-user-home-win/FAQ/tasks/commonissue_disable_greencheck_c.html#task_C34D204F371D411C861979F3DDD4FDE1

  Volunteer - MS - MVP - Digital Media Experience J - Notice_This is not tech support_I'm volunteer - Solutions that work for me may not work for you - * proceed at your own risk *.

• Imported photos do not appear in the photo browser, but are all the Photos in the album

  Some of my imported photos appear in the album pictures, but do not appear when I select the Photos button (that is the one next to "Shared") to browse my photo library.  This happens with photos imported from a GoPro camera SD card.  No idea why this is happening and how to fix it?

  Your photo library is probably in need of repair, see this help page: repair your library - help Photos

• Dolly zoom with green screen in the background

  I'm about to do a shoot with my subject based on a table with a green screen set directly behind. I recently decided that I wanted to do a cart in, to zoom back, but realized I might have a problem trying to get this effect of dizziness with a green screen and no real picture during shooting. Is it as simple as zoom in firing and then dolly by placing the image in later? Any help would be much appreciated.

  The Vertigo Alford Hitchcock effect is created by placing a leading player and then moving the camera to the actor while zoom you back to keep the actor of the same size in the frame.  Perspective is controlled by the position of the camera so that camera movements to the actor of the relationship between the actor and the substantive changes. You get all kinds of travel natural Parallax that awaits your eye. When you zoom while you move your brain does not expect the framing remains constant as the perspective moves. This gives you the effect of dizzying Vertigo.

  I tell you all this because if you want to remove this with a green screen, you have to shoot a background plate with the same or almost the same schedule as you shoot the Green screenshot.  Let's say you press down on the cart for four seconds and move 10 feet. During that four second dolly you zoom from 70 mm to 24 mm. To make the effect that you will need to choose something for a flat bottom which has enough geometry in the shot to give you perspective and Parallax changes and positioned the camera about the same distance from your player does not exist it would be if it was in the scene. You then the second even 10 feet and 70-24mm zoom 4 you made to operate the shooting in the studio. Just use a still image or a locked off camera shot like a bottom plate, you won't get the effect of strong "vertigo" you get hit for roll of shooting.  I discovered this the hard way when I shot a film about of 15 years who needed a dozen effect dizziness hits. I had to reshooting plates bottom about four times until we finally get to work. All other attempts just looked weird.

• Visualization of photos with my camera gives the error "i/o ERROR. interrupted the process."

  Original title: i/o ERROR. The process is interrupted.

  I am running with Vista. I want to see the pictures with my new camera of the early 1800s of Fuji. I have loaded the FinePix CD into the computer and got the above error. I uninstalled and reloaded the program with the same results. Fuji called and they said it was a problem with windows. The Fuji CD is version 5.5 d can help you?

  This isn't really a problem with Media Center. You could try a Fuji support forum or
  the forums on http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/forum.asp?forum=1012
   
   
   
  We sat, 7 Oct 2010 14:56:27 + 0000, oneeach wrote:
   
  > I am running with Vista. I want to see the pictures with my new camera of the early 1800s of Fuji. I have loaded the FinePix CD into the computer and got the above error. I uninstalled and reloaded the program with the same results. Fuji called and they said it was a problem with windows. The Fuji CD is version 5.5 d can help you?
   

  Barb Bowman

  http://www.digitalmediaphile.com

• Archive file error - but filled with files are in the file together?

  I get the error message "adobe cs5.5 design standard archive file is missing. The .7x and the .exe file appear in a folder on the desktop of my 3 Surface Pro (64-bit). The .7z is completely downloaded. I tried as an administrator but get the same question.

  Any ideas why it doesn't let me go forward?

  Hi Joannaf82491450,

  Thank you for the screenshot.

  This type of error occurs generally when the files have been damaged due to a break in connectivity network during the download. I recommend the re - download files from Download Adobe Creative Suite 5.5 products, ensuring that you have a very stable internet connection. If you use wifi, you may need a wired connection or a different wifi signal. If you can not get a stable connection on your Surface Pro 3, you can download the files using a different device, store them on a portable hard drive and then transfer them.

  Kind regards

  Del

• New HP PC with Windows 8, on the Internet, can not find the residential group of laptop, another PC HP and HP printer.

  Group residential troubleshooting on both PC cannot find something wrong looking Homegroup concludes nothing. Tried 'see network computers & peripherals' in the center network and sharing, takes a few minutes to search for with green bar showing the progress and then when it's 1/8 "to the end, it goes no further. I let it try for more than an hour and then tried again. Them twice, stopped at this place from 1/8 "and went no further.

  Hi, Arfoud,

  Homegroup from start to finish

  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows/HomeGroup-help#HomeGroup-start-to-finish=Windows-8&V1H=win8tab1&V2H=win7tab1

  What it takes to set up a home network

  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows-8/what-you-need-Setup-home-network

  The homegroup Windows problems

  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows-8/HomeGroup-problems-in-Windows

  Sharing of files and printers

  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows/sharing-files-printers-help#sharing-files-and-printers=Windows-8&V1H=win8tab1&V2H=win7tab1&V3H=winvistatab1&v4h=winxptab1

• Photo with severe water damage restoration

  One of my friends asked me to restore the picture attached (his father) who has suffered water damage (I erased the gentleman since I didn't ask permission to share the photo with others). Fortunately the face of the person is intact, but everything else is damaged. The peak in the background is the Matterhorn in the Swiss Alps and the photographer has chosen this clever angle so that the person is almost as large as the peak. I know how to use spot healing and the clone stamp, but my biggest problem is that the outline of the PIC has been deleted. I tried to increase the contrast with a layer and had only limited success in the law, but none on the left.

  
  

  My two-part question:

  
  

  (1) could you suggest a way to reveal more of the sketch of the mountain and

  (2) if it assumes that the only choice left, what is the best way to draw the edges of the top of the mountain

  
  

  By the way, I mentioned to my friend the ability to insert his father in a photo of the Matterhorn, but 'a fake' don't just because this photo has a very special meaning for her.

  
  

  All the advice you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  

  I dragged with the Quick Selection tool. It is possible to correct that you select, for example, hold the cursor more for less Alt key changes. So, you can add bits and take out the bits to perfect.

• Key challenges of chroma with areas of the screen no green images

  Hi all

  I have a small studio space, so when I have green screen, I always try to do shots I can't answer very well. The most recent example are these shots of my subject by behind. I move the camera more near the end of shooting.

  As you can see in these images, I captured content beyond the borders of the green screen.

  

  And I'm zooming, so before the end of shooting, it is looking like this:

  

  No matter what I try (rotation of the pen, mask, Matt track tool) I can not understand how to deal with this photo. Roto pen doesn't let me keep green all about my topic. What I'm trying to expand the selection (roto border isn't clean - it is the cut in the edges all around):

  

  .. .unhelpfully expands my selection completely to the edge of the screen. If I just disregard his right shoulder by millimeters, I get this:

  

  This sequence is of course far from ideal, but I can't understand this. I spent hours trying different things without success.

  All I'm trying to do is capture my subject with a bit of the green screen still around it, so I can remove that in a later step and have the images of the intact object with a transparent background.

  If I'm following Matt up, the selected area becomes my background, instead of being always about me. It is a task in the form of subject from my background, lol.

  Can anyone here feel sorry for this newb and guide me through what an expert can perform to process these images and crop the area of non-green screen images?

  Thank you

  Bill

  Approach quite wrong. Before composing the images and inside the demo clip away anything outside the green screen using a mask base. Then try to extract a specific string based on the green (effects of use layers or the old base, Keylight not masking effects!) and refine the result using other effects, then apply it as a cache.

  Mylenium

• My camera has reached 9999 photos and started renumbering 0001 but in a different folder.  If I import new photos in iPhoto, the older photos with the same numbers are overwritten?

  My camera is renumbering pictures from 0001, but a new camera case.  If I import new photos in iPhoto, they replace the old photos with the same numbers?  The camera knows that they are in a different folder, but what happens when I import into iPhoto?

  iPHoto manages very well duplicate file names - each import is in another folder in the database - no problem

  LN

• I had to rebuild the computer and reinstalled the photos of cecently.  I have photos imported into Lightroom, but the parameters associated with the photos, that is to say. When they were developed, are not there.  How to import these?

  I recently had to rebuild the computer and reinstalled the photos.  I have photos imported into Lightroom, but the parameters associated with the photos, that is to say. When they were developed, are not there.  How to import these?

  Default LR stores all changes in the catalog file, not in the pictures. So if you have a backup of your original catalog you will need to copy on the newly rebuilt system and open it in LR. You will then need to recreate a link to the images in the catalog depending on where are your images and where the original LR catalogue think they are.

• Can the records with the same pictures are in the Organizer add? I have to start? I tried to organize photos in folders in a time better. I have to start all over again?

  I made new files so I could have a better time line, but the Organizer will not let me load them. The new files contain the same images, but they are better organized.  To add pictures in the folders I have to delete those in the organizer and start again?  I feel like I got this backward little and should have organized their first. Help.

  virginiae56248392 wrote:

  I made new files so I could have a better time line, but the Organizer will not let me load them. The new files contain the same images, but they are better organized.  To add pictures in the folders I have to delete those in the organizer and start again?  I feel like I got this backward little and should have organized their first. Help.

  The key to understanding the difference between the Organization of your files and folders directly in your disk folders tree and by organizing with a catalogue, is that the catalogue:

  -contains no image files, that links to the actual location on the disk

  -stores the links in a database with organizers strict rules, which is to avoid duplicates.

  One of the highlights of the databases such as those in the elements or Lightroom is that they store duplicate data. Which avoids not only of space useless, but also ensures that you're updating a file and forget its duplicates. As a result, the Organizer will prevent you from 'import', which is to 'index' your files several times. It recognizes the files into two criteria: the size of the file in kilobytes and the "date" of the shooting.

  The other strength of the catalogue, it's that you can select the sort order of your files displayed: by date, name of the file, import annealing in Bell or same "custom" order in albums. This means you don't ever need to have your physical files and folders sorted by dates on your drive. Try to get a similar organisation to the date on your car in your catalog can be an unnecessary pain. Good if you choose a folder structure to date in office at the time of importation; There must be little order at this time anyway. Once your photos are cataloged, the rule is that if you want to change the structure of your file, you must do it from the Organizer itself (left panel of record). This means that you are working with already imported files (you can not import duplicates). You can organize in this folder on the same panel as if you were in Solution Explorer / finder. You can either use the 'move' menu or drag and drop of folders with their subfolders, you can move the files of images to other subfolders. Beware, there are traps in doing this, for example by trying to move a subfolder in master already a folder with the same name of subfolder...

  So, ask yourself if all this work is really worth. And be patient and prudent to do this task from the file Organizer Panel.

• LR6, newly imported photos not showing in the pictures folders with the date of the photo, where they are...?

  images are not displayed in a folder with the date that they were taken.  Imports have always downloaded in the folder of LR6 photo with the date of when the photos were taken.  Now I just downloaded 170 photos taken on 11/14/2015 and they are nowhere to be found.

  Hi marke,

  Depends on what place of destination has been selected at the time of import into Lightroom.

  It might be possible that the destination was changed this time.

  If you are able to see these images in Lightroom, right click / Control click the file or image and choose view in the Explorer/Finder and who will show you the image on your hard drive.