power supply HP API3PCB4 model: power supply wiring

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• Pavilion a6512p power switch wiring / card mother pinset

  Looking for a diagram or pinset for Pavilion a6512p desktop pc.

  A friends PC is DEAD.  Then as he would not pass a person removed the power switch and the switch wiring.

  I try to find why the PC is DEAD.  Good power - LED to a constant.

  Need to go beyond the power switch isssue so need to know how to wire lift PC to power.

  So I can determine if it is the switch power supply or component...

  Any help would be appreciated.

  Should be a diagram somewhere telling me what PIN does what.

  TIA, Gary

  Please use the following scheme;

  

  If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

  Please click the 'Thumbs Up' white LAURELS to show your appreciation

• power electric wiring is smaller, there are empty shells left

  HP pavilion p6110y - new wiring and old pc power supply is smaller, there are left empty plugs first I took old food out but did not to see which end had extra Sockets have new power provide in and ready to plug but don't want to trial and error and close up in smoke thx for all help

  tgo2go,

  The card mother p6110y stock must have a 24pin connector. The 250W power SUPPLY Bestec had that a connector 20 pins, according to specifications listed here. I can understand Frank question you. Your comment is very confused.

  Please confirm:

  1) the 24 pin motherboard.

  (2) original power supply was 20 pins.

  (3) new power supply's 24pin.

  Check this page for the connectors. You will notice the capture of latch and the card mother PSU. This locking.

  Does make sense for you? The clasp and are on the other side.

  

  You can plug a power supply ATX 20 pin in a motherboard with a Connector ATX 24. The image above shows the power cable plugged into a motherboard 24 20-pin pins. A power cable 20 pin compatible only with at one end of a connector to motherboard 24 pins so you cannot insert it incorrectly.

• HP Z620: Problem of auxiliary graphic workstation HP Z620 pci-e power connectors

  I want to fit my new GPU Z620 workstation card. I see that there are two auxiliary pci - e power connectors on the plastic support. I intend to use these two to put my new graphics card but I see potential problems.
  The problem is that in these two connectors pinout is not really to PCI-e spec. There are five female terminals to each 6 connector routes. The three terminals in the top row are crushed and two terminals downstairs is 12V. 6 cavity is empty in both connectors. As far as I know the PCI-e power connectors should have 12V power supplied to cavity n ° 4 and n ° 6 of cavity. What I have to manually change these two connectors pinout and move terminal 12V from cavity to cavity no.6 no.5 or there may be a few HP adapter that could solve this problem?

  connectors

  

  Only HP knows what HP has designed (and why) and as such, it cannot be assumed simply that a connector on a system is consistent with the 'standards' and not a "psudo owner" Connector (as seems to be the case with your PEG connector that is missing pin #3).

  Normally, a PEG 2 connector x 3 can provide 75W and as such, each 12V pin provides 1/3 of the power budget. This means that the HP "psydo owner" PEG connector, for lack of a better term, may not be able to supply 50W (if each ping is kept for the same current capabilities used in the standard 2 x 3 plug PEG).

  Then, this suggests the Z620 can only support a 175W graphics cards (with 75W of PCIe + 50W of each of the two 2 x 3 PEG connectors). Note that the standard allows graphics cards to 225W pulling 75W of the slot PCIe and 75W of each PEG 2 connector x 3!

  Thus, quantify this is to watch the quickspec for your Z620 and see what graphics cards are certified for use with your system. Then to know what cards are certified for your system, you can check what PEG connectors as appropriate are provided on these certified cards and also check what is their energy consumption. I would guess that all graphics cards that require more juice 175W has not been certified by HP...

  Since you say your card draws 165W, this budget of power seems OK during examination of the foregoing. So it should just be a matter of connect the two connectors of the PEG 2 x 3 and all should be well.

  However, it you want a card more powerful, purely based on the fact that a standard 2 x 4 connector PEG can power 150W using three-pin 12V, this would indicate that each pin can supply 50W. Assuming that the pins used in a conector of PEG 2 x 3 and 2 x 4 are the same, a 2 x 3 with only two pins 12V power connector could in theory provide 100W each. So you could in theory use a 275W card into the PCIe slot with your 2 psudo owner HP PEG connectors. BUT it means something to the pins themselves and that your HP power is up to the task (and can actually provide the necessary 275W power).

  And I would say that if you wanted a graphics 225W which is supported by standards, likley it would be a simple mod to the rider 12V among the pins for the vacancy that is normally used by the 3 pin (12V).  I'd be surprised if the block POWER HP of power and wiring could not handle the necessary extra 50W. But maybe it's a little too much for some who enjoy the guarantee.

  In any case, without owning a Z620, I would be comfortable in saying that you have no problem with this graphics card 165W and these exclusive hybrid psudo 2 x 3 PEG connectors as is

  (Heck, I don't got no problem with a 35W graphics card in a slot PCIe capable of 25W of my Dell T610 server that only supports the graphs via the inetgrated adapter)...

  But really, who knows why only two used HP pin 12V in their PEG connectors, maybe they used the best quality PINE and they were not sufficient for the cards, they chose to certify. Maybe save 2 cents for a less pin was a driving force... HP only knows what HP...

• Eurotherm 2404% manual power set point

  I'm using the LabView ET24xx driver. It works fine if I want to set and control in automated mode. I'm looking for the ability to create a vi that allows me to switch to manual mode (able to do that) and adjust the set value (can't do it). The set point in Manual Mode is generally the percentage of power. I would like to be able to establish to anything other than 0% or 100%, however when I use the driver it does not appear as a method of manipulation of this. I know I'm missing something, and any help would be greatly appreciated.

  Thank you

  Tennessee Paul

  Thank you, Robert. After a lot of research I found the solution:

  Use the VI: ET24XX configure OP key parameters 2. VI

  key point in the use of this VI. The power (or control) setting labeled power output target is in tenths. A value of 5 = 50%. A value of 0.5 = 5%. With this VI no value greater than 10 will work. The VI will timeout on the "Write" command, if the value is greater than 10. I don't know why this VI was established in this way. Remove the output target x 10 serving power and wiring of the power output target control directly in the table of generation within the VI allows a more intuitive entry of power, until we realize the value of the power output target is %.

• HP Pavilion HPE 1090 t: could someone help me please... Desktop HP Pavilion HPE h8-1090 t CTO - PSU replacement/compatibiliy

  I just bought a new power supply (Corsair CS650M) because someone has suggested that it would be a good replacement power supply for my HP model which is HP Pavilion HPE 1090 t.   I need to know if this Corsair works and is compatible with my system, because something is not working with him directly or I did something wrong.    This is my first install and when it comes to the ins and outs of power amplification entry & exit and amperages I get so confused about this stuff.   But I think I took all the pluged connection correctly, at least when I re-plugin my old PSU after the installation to fail, I had the PC working again, what made me give confidence that I did the Corsair install correctly.  But what happens is after the installation of the unit from Corsair and turn the system he clicked power off after about 10 seconds or more and then restarted after a few seconds, then stopped again and turns off after another 10 to 15 seconds, and nothing would come up on top of the screen no more.   The first time I did the research what PSU would be compatible, I was getting conflicting results with a few places on the net saying that the majority of the HP out there (excluding some models such as the slimline) could be replaced by different manufacturers and higher power PSU, while other places I looked different.   Even the person who recommended me this power supply said in his post that he installed a Corsair HX650 model in its HP PC, and it worked very well for him.  Now, after the failure of the installation for the next few days, I did a lot more research and when I went on the site of HP and looked up the specifications of the model my PC I noticed under the power supply section, he had a heading that says "must select one of the following options" (in fact most of the different sections shows that the title too) and then he showed only two options 460W and 600W.  Then he asked me if it's the only option I get with my model.  And then I looked at my model number HP on the HP PartSurfer and under the section of the PSU, it also registers only 460W and 600W.   So who is?   I have to stay with only these options two HP or can I get a power supply with a higher power a bit then 600W from a different manufacturer that is what I want.    If I can get something that is compatible other than the options listed HP please let me know, or if this Corsair should work someone please let me know.   I need to return it otherwise.    My specs are below.

  Thank you Aaron

  HP Pavilion HPE series
  Model No.: h8-1090 t CTO Desktop PC

  Name motherboard manufacturer: IPMTB-TK Pegatron HP/Compaq name: Truckee

  PIC of the motherboard link: http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Pavilion-HP E-h8-1000-Desktop-PC-series/5080764/model/5117795...

  Original HP installed: AMD Radeon HD 6570 (Bronco) graphics card 1 GB Model: 648533-001, SP # 659355-001

  Link video card PIC: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111761368505

  Nothing has been added/modified recently real system.  Last change was the beginning of the year 2015, which was a new 2 TB HDD and added however problem memory only started about 3 weeks ago.  The Interior has been cleaned (diffuse can)

  600W Μatx Estar v5 HF PSU (Petrus)

  Information about the current hardware out of the Power Supply Unit

  Switching power supply
  Model: DPS-600WB A
  Part number: 633186-001
  600W power MAX

  Output: DC output rating (new Corsair PSU)

  + 12Va = output DC 16A = + 3.5V / + 5v / + 12v /-12v / + 5vsb

  + 12Vb = 18 a Max Load = 25 a / 25 a / 51 / 0.8 a / 3a

  + 12Vc = 12 a Max comb = 130W / 612W / 9.6W / 15W

  + 12Vd = 10A power Total Power 650W

  + 16 5.08V = side of AC input

  + 3, 3V = 15 a AC input: 100V - 240V

  + 2 5.08Vsb = current: 10A - 5A

  -12V = 0.3 frequency: 47 Hz to 63 Hz =

  Entry:

  100-127V ~, 50-60 Hz, 10 a

  200 - 240 v ~, 50-60 Hz, 4A

  You are welcome.

  Although there is a limit to the amount of power that is needed to power your computer, it uses only the amount of power it takes to power the computer correctly.  The extra power is kept in reserve for the purposes of art.  Thus, you cannot really bad the computer with extra power or amperage.  You can sleep on this point.

  Indianaak wrote:
  

  Thank you very much for your quick response, I wasn't getting anyone to answer the previous post.

  If your saying these HP spare parts are not exclusive to the company?  Some connectors may be owners, but most are not.

  It should work then?  Yes.  I've recommended hundreds of the PSU in the years I've been helping on the Forums; in fact since about 2002.

  How about the input/output & amperages of note that I registered?  As I understand not all this jargon, I want to assure you that I have / using correct notation for my system.  I don't want to fry one of my compondents with to much amperage.   Well, either I did something wrong installing or this power supply is a dud then.  Read my explanation at the top of the page.

  As I said before I pretty sure I had all the right connections, what can you tell me if it sounds right for you.  I have pluged in both connectors wired on the motherboard which were the main ATX 24pin power connector and the EPS/ATX12V 8 pin which I shared and pluged a piece of the cable labeled 'CPU' in slot 4 pins on the montherboard labeled ATX CPU.  Regarding the other split 4 pads, I don't see anywhere, it could be pluged into the motherboard.  If two 4-pin connectors were even marked, it should be good.  However, you can try to plug the other 4 pin instead of this, just to make sure that the right pair is connected to the processor power.

  My AMD Radeon HD 6570 1 GB graphics card is the type that is fed through the MB so I didn't use any of the PCI-E cables 6-8 poles.  It is very good.

  And so the only thing I had left that I have pluged the compondents of Sata cables that was my Bluray burner, my 2 TB hard drive and my USB 3.0 card.  They are very frank.

  Yet once again being installation of hardware in my system let me ask hopefully not a stupid question, but when you connect compondents Sata cable, you must have the plug-in in a particular order of wiring compondent or how do you?  I don't check the specifications of your power supply, but I think most of them have a single 12V rail.  If this is the case, you don't have to connect them to any order.  If there are two rails, it is best to divide the power of each rail.

  On my old PSU, it has an extension cable SATA used to connent card USB 3.0 which is pretty tightly squeezed between graphics card and sound card, so I guess I could use the extension cable with the new PSU POWER Sata wiring without any compatibility also publishes, right?  This should be no problem I can think of at this point.

  Thanks again for your help, I'll probably will try and plug it once more and see if I can make it work.  If this does not work for now, I strongly suggest that you contact Technical Support of Corsair for help.  They are the experts on their products and grab any errors that we do.  It is very difficult to diagnose a problem by far.  When you have done with this project, you will no longer be the excuss you are a novice. You will have a lot of knowledge that you did not when you started.

  Please click on the button + Thumbs up if I helped you and click on accept as Solution If your problem is resolved.

• 8 blinks on KDL-46EX720

  After 2 months of using my sony suddenly would not start correctly. on switching on, it would pass by the usual process but, it does not meet any button (remote or on the side of the TV).
  Then it would just reboot and go through the same process.

  When I turn it off, I'd get 8 flashes on the standby light.

  any idea whats up with my LED TV?

  much appreciated!

  All the:

  The following procedure should solve the problem you're having with your units:

  Follow the steps below to resolve this issue *.

  Unplug the power cord of the TV from the power outlet.
  Leave the TV to remain without electricity for one minute.
  Plug the power cord into the power outlet.
  Perform a factory reset.

  Turn on the TV.
  Immediately after that a photo or display information appears, press and hold the up arrow button on the remote control.
  IMPORTANT: Make sure that the remote control is directed to the front of the TV.

  While holding the up arrow button, press and release the power button on the side of the TV.
  Release the up arrow button on the remote control.
  NOTE: If the reset is successful, TV momentarily displays a message of reset. If the message does not appear, repeat the reset procedure.

  After the Reset message appears, leave the TV set not disturbed for a minute - don't press any key on the remote control or the TV.
  Unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet.
  Leave the TV to remain without electricity for 10 seconds.
  Plug the power cord into the power outlet.
  Turn on the TV.
  NOTE: The initial configuration is displayed if the procedures above have been performed correctly.

  Follow the on-screen instructions to complete the first set up.

  Additional information-
  Perform a software update (firmware) of system *.

  The option to update the automatic software in the TV menu should be put on keeping the software updated to the latest version.
  Using the supplied remote control, press the HOME button.
  Select settings.
  Select Product Support.
  Select automatic update of the software.
  Select enabled.
  Press the Enter key.
  The clock must be set.
  Automatic software updates are available on some TV models only.
  The software updates when the TV is in standby mode. Complete the software update usually within the next 24 to 36 hours.
  NOTE: A forced update is available for some 2010 model televisions.

  The light orange on the face before the TV starts flashing and the TV will not respond to the remote control or the buttons on panel until you have completed the update.
  Perform an Internet content refresh after the TV has been updated to the latest version of the software in order to receive the latest BRAVIA® Internet video Services.
  NOTE: You MUST first confirm that the TV has the latest version of the software. Otherwise Internet content update will delay the automatic update every 24 hours.

  To make sure that the TV Gets the last update, make sure that your TV is connected to the Internet via a connection high speed with a wired router, an adapter to play wireless, a wireless bridge or a power adapter wired line.

  IMPORTANT: The TV clock might be lost when the software is updated. Reset the clock if needed.

  NOTE: Most of the automatic software updates is provided to Sony via an active high-speed Internet connection. However, occasionally, Sony offers an update through the antenna, or a digital cable signal.

  The benefits of these updates are to keep the TV up-to-date with the latest content, changes to the programming and to improve the overall viewing experience.

• S2340L only audio outputs on the right?

  This week, I met the same problem with my Dell S2340L monitor. For several months now, I have had no problem using the Line Out jack on the back of the monitor with external speakers and an HDMI cable, but now it shows only the right channel. I tested with different stakeholders which I checked are working directly from the computer, but still does not not with the monitor.

  aidancopps,

  * While the computer is on and the screen is still connected to the computer video card via our supplied wiring, turn off the screen
  * Unplug the power cord from the bottom of the screen monitor
  * Press and hold the button of power monitor for 10 seconds
  * Plug the monitor power cord
  * Turn on the monitor
  * HDMI audio test again

• HP Officejet 6600: HP 6600 fax answer long distance calls; worked very well.

  My HP Officejet 6600 suddenly uses the fax to answer long distance calls. This can happen because I had lost power. Wiring has not changed. Local and answering calls work very well.

  Hey @bunny352 ,

  Thanks for joining us on the HP Forums today, hope you enjoy your time with us!

  So, my name is Zac and I'll be your HP 1 to 1 support agent today! I understand that you are running a really interesting question where your fax will pick up calls telephone long distances but works fine otherwise. I would like for you to check a number of things for me.

  1 make sure your distinctive ring is set to all rings.

  2. make sure auto response is 'On '.

  3 Let me know how many rings you need to your answering machine pick up. (Make sure that your fax, 2 rings is later)

  Please get back to me with this information and if you need help to find it also made me know what it is you need to find and I'll help you with that too. Can't wait to hear back on your part! Have a great day and wonderful / safe from holidays!

• HP s5710f led failure indicator

  The ' light ' has failed.

  Otherwise, the computer works fine.

  The light is usually blue when the computer is turned on and amber tricks during the "sleep" mode

  Problem now is that not knowing what computer mode causes unnecessary reboots (accidental), because the thought of current switch that turned off is pressed.

  I opened the folder and a saw that the light was yellow/orange wire leads.

  I have their trace on a motherboard connector.

  Think the dirt or corrosion may cause a joint high-strength, I unplugged the connector and re-connected, with the intention to clean the contacts.

  It does not solve the problem.

  Any other ideas?

  Hello Tony617,

  Welcome to the HP Forums, I hope you enjoy your experience! To help you get the most out of the Forums of HP, I would like to draw your attention to the Guide of the Forums HP first time here? Learn how to publish and more.

  I understand that your power light is no longer shows if the system is on or off, and if you're constantly reboot the computer when it is just in mode "Eve". To resolve this issue, you will need to part (511607-ZH1) number - Power switch LED support (Longitude), which is no longer sold by HP, but is available online, you need to simply do a search for the part number and you will locate many.

  Now to replace the switch / LED support Assembly you must follow the instructions set out for you below:

  Before to intervene on the installation that you have done the following.

  Step 1. Turn off all the devices connected to the system.
  Step 2. Shut down Windows.
  Step 3. Identify and mark all the cables. Disconnect the cables from the system. Don't forget to disconnect the modem cable before disconnecting the power cord.

  The power switch

  

  The power switch is located in the upper part of the system. The hard drive activity light is lower on the front of the system. The two parties are wired together and must be removed at the same time.

  Withdrawal of the power switch

  

  To remove the switch a first remove the trim...

  

  .. .the front...

  

  .. .the optical drive...

  

  .. .the system fan...

  

  .. .and the cage.

  

  The power switch also branches to connect to the activity of the hard drive LED, which is located inside the front and drive IO memory combination.

  

  Remove the connector of the power led hard drive the rest of the power switch wiring harness

  

  Resume the threads on the guide to small cable systems.

  

  Detach the connector from the power switch to the motherboard.

  

  Release the connector of the three guides cable near the top of the PC.

  

  Inside the PC, slide the latch beside the sons of the connector...

  

  .. .and while pressing the lock...

  

  .. .slide power switch slightly to the right...

  

  .. then pull the power switch and connectors on the PC.

  Power switch replacement

  

  The switch has a small hook on the side...

  

  .. .that fits into a small slot on the front of the PC.

  

  The switch has also two small tabs...

  

  .. .that fall into the slots on the PC.

  

  To replace the power switch, first feed the connector in through the rectangular slot on the front of the PC.

  

  Align the tabs on the switch and hook into their slots on the PC...

  

  .. .and slide the switch to the left until the latch snaps into place to fix all.

  

  Enter three cable guides the power switch connector near the top of the PC.  The cable Guide helps keep cables compact and are important to maintain the circulation of air in the PC.

  

  Replace the connector on the motherboard...

  

  ... replace the connector to the guide of the seal...

  

  .. .and re - pair connector on the cable of the hard disk activity light coming from the IO Panel front.

  I hope that I have answered your question to your satisfaction. Thanks for posting on the HP Forums. Have a great day!

• sata connection

  I just got a new HP Pavilion Phoenix h9xt. I add a second optical drive and 2 hard drives from my old computer. The current configuration on the new computer has the HDD in sata 1 and the current optical drive in sata 2. Should I sign added in 2 and 3 sata hard drives and drives 4 and 5 sata optical? It is a raid configuration will be added hard drives for storage. Thank you, John

  Hello

  Is this HP HPE h9 - 1150t your PC?

  To avoid any problems with the addition of two extra hard one drives an additional optical drive.  The specifications indicate room for three hard drives and two optical drives.  I can't say for certain how much power pre wiring has been done, but I suspect that the power is there for the extra optical drive and a second hard drive. You may need to use a power SATA Y for the third hard drive adapter.

  Two edge (1 and 2) SATA connectors are SATA III so I use hard drives SATA III and place the optical drives on SATA II (3-6) ports.  You may need to revise your order of boot device in the bios to ensure that it reflects your wishes.

  

  ' HP ' how-to ' articles should be useful.

• Error starting TX9200

  Hello

  Here we have a TX9200 device, during its commissioning, we found the right codec starts very slowly and still be supported initially for a long time.

  Can someone tell me what is each step? The Guide admin cts, only one sentence mention, "If the last check box displayed is red X, there is a compact flash error." Then what is it from others?

  Thank you very much.

  Yiliang,

  Get hooked on the first 1-5 control points is almost always an RMA number. The codec is not network connectivity and yet so there is not much we can do about the problems in addition to the wiring and power. The last box is actually one of those that we can solve the problems, because it might be a DHCP problem.

  The start of control points are:

  0 = init finished UBoot (Cisco logo)

  1 = checked CTS image header.

  2 = loading image CTS of CF to RAM

  3 = loading of images from CF continued

  4 = loading of images from CF continued

  5 = amount of image verified CTS. Ramdisk & Pass control to the kernel of the load.

  6 = at Linux, establish the network, kernel in the control (mounted nv),

  To get hooked on the second point, I would check the power and wiring and then open a TAC case for replacement of equipment likely.

  Tyler Walker

  TAC TelePresence

• WRT 54 G V8 / find wireless connect

  HI > first!

  I have the above model. My wired works with two computers.

  I want to add my laptop

  went wireless.

  Auto connect success he gave me a ssid in the region. Then connected a screen jumped upward and says: you will return to the screen his during the complete connection - when she returned to the screen - it kick out connection - ask a network key - I gave him writing in the key ssid - he says incompatibility.

  What he wants. ??? Laughing out loud! I'm no TEC.

  This orange button only works with other Linksys wireless adapters.  It will not work with other brands.  You will need to be manually connected your computer to your router.

  Connect to your router using 192.168.1.1 in the IE address bar.

  Let the empty user name and use admin for the password if you have not set up a password.

  Go to the wireless tab and change the SSID to something else than Linksys.  Then, click the Wireless Security tab.  You have three choice WEP, WPA or WPA2.  You have the choice between WPA Personal or business.  Personal use.

  Then choose TKIP or AES algorithms.

  Set up the shared key or the passphrase.  Your phone will ask you this shared key.  If you get a referring mistake your computer settings do not match those of your router, you will have to setup WPA and TKIP or AES in your computer.

• Better product Adobe to communicate site UI / UX without a big learning curve?

  Which is the best product from Adobe for an artist not to communicate some site Web UI / UX without a big learning curve?

  Thank you.

  You can take a look at Adobe Comp for the creation of UI/UX models.

  Wired, layout and software model. Adobe Comp CC

• Take in charge of the common Nighthawk of the X 8 power supply 240V (USA model)?

  Take in charge of the common Nighthawk of the X 8 power supply 240V (USA model)?

  It should work perfectly.

  We have a job in a remote desktop using 240V.