Proxies raw RED

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• LR3 overexpose the Canon 7 d RAW Red

  Hi all

  I have been using Lightroom for a few years, firstly with a Canon 30 d and now with a Canon 7 d.  So far, I found that all versions of Lightroom, including final LR3, overexpose strong reds, especially the shot in full sun on the 7 d.  The same shots of the 30 d develop OK, so I'm pretty sure it has to do with the profile that Lightroom supplies for the 7 d RAW files.  Normally, the solution is to reduce the luminance of the reds to the LGV, but its not always optimal and not as good as the supplied Canon DPP.

  Does anyone else have this problem?  Is this a known Adobe issue?  Anyone know a fix?

  All comments much appreciated...

  Wadeas wrote:

  Yes, the second image is close enough to the true color.  I think that the tint is again done by the white balance and not the luminance slider.  Lightroom has done a good job to match the colors from what I can tell.

  About my original red saturation image - I guess that if others see over-exposed red in the first image above jpg file, and the same thing when they import my file CR2, then the problem is not the monitor, but the rendering in Lightroom.

  Certainly, the red channel is not overexposed.  Rendering, however, doesn't come close to the second JPEG, you've identified as the color of the "real world."

  Really, you should consider purchasing a device of calibration of equipment for your monitor.

• Premiere Pro cc cannot access the R3D Raw controls

  I have a red R3D file in the project window. When I right click on it, I should be able to select the PARAMETERS of SOURCE code to get orders for correction of color RED RAW but the SOURCE SETTINGS is gray. In addition and maybe it's a separate problem or a part of the 1st problem, when I right click and select EDIT the ORIGINAL instead of bringing REDCINE X it starts the RED player. Is there any software I need to download to get the PP for me to color correct my RAW RED files using the RED settings. I just downloaded creative cloud a few days ago so everything is up-to-date.

  In order to access the settings of the source, you must click on the actual item in your box of 'project '. Then in your effect options you can access the settings of rough.

• R3D files won't play (black screen)

  I have a problem with the RED workflow.

  I imported my RED of the raw images in first CC where can I get a thumbnail of the clips, but when I want to play I get a Blacksreen. The strange I thing about it is, I've worked with Raw RED files on the same computer 2 years and had no problem working with them. I also checked with this old project and got the same failure.

  Any ideas?

  Computer:

  Windows 10

  GeForce GTX 750

  32 GB of Ram

  i5 - 6600K

  Adobe Premiere 2015.3 CC

  Thanks for your help!

  If you have the NVidia 368xx driver, back to one of the drivers 365 series

• Vs GTX 980 Ti Quadro K4200 vs AMD over-pants W7100

  I have change and color of image quality raw RED 4.5 K in Premiere Pro. I want to get a 10-bit, 4K display and need to upgrade my GPU to run it.

  The standard position seems to be "NVIDIA are much better than AMD CUDA being much better than OpenCL", but there is a compelling case for the week of specifications and compatibility:

  	GTX 980 Ti	Quadro K4200	AMD over-pants W7100
  4K @ 60 Hz?
  10-bit color?
  Hearts CUDA	2816	1344	No CUDA (OpenCL 2.0)
  GRAM	6 GB	4 GB	8GB

  • Downgrade to 1440 p/monitor 10-bit / a Quadro.
  • Just accept no 10-bit color, get the GTX 980 it
  • Go AMD, but risking worse performance (e.g. Debayering R3D files).

  Please advise, I'm stuck!

  Thank you

  Declan

  ---

  Windows 7 64 bit
  Intel 4790K

  32 GB RAM DDR3

  Current GPU: GTX 750 Ti (who plays 4.5 K R3Ds 1/4 resolution without problem).

  unless you plan to dual quadro k4200 or over-pants w7100 running, you may not be satisfied with their performance. Depending on your project, a single gtx 980 ti should be able to handle the Red images. with regard to the 10 bits of output, just get a video card aja or blackmagic to feed your 10-bit monitor.

• How to turn off the Red markers for a strong light in Camera Raw?

  Hey guys,.

  I have the following problem: when you use camera raw, I accidentally hit a button on my keyboard and since that day, which are very bright areas are marked in red in camera raw, which makes it really hard to edit my images. Does anyone know how to turn that off? I added a screenshot so you will know what I mean.

  Thank you!

  

  You can activate / them (black all-white) by clicking on the small triangles at the top of the histogram.

• Lightroom turns my (raw) CR2 files in red

  Hello - I am having this problem will all my Adobe software (bridge, camera raw and lightroom). My raw files in red color change. I checked my monitor profile and I use the sRGB profile all over the place. Here's a screenshot of what question I face. As you can see, all the thumbnails have become red.

  When I open these images in my windows machine using the integrated photo viewer or Windows live photo gallery, I don't face any problem. I also open these pictures in Canon DPP and it works very well. In all the Adobe products I mentioned above, I see this problem.

  I'm new to this, ask for your help.

  Thank you

  Mahesh

  

  The two photos of this small catalogue had zero BM, HSL and Split Toning applied settings that skewed their color to Red:

  

  

  A hypothesis as to what happened is that you have edited a photo of sunrise/sunset which was for the most part only orange and seemed better with still more than orange, and then for some unknown reason only, you know, you've decided to define the LR default values to these severely fixed parameters , using Alt / Set Defaults... / update to current settings.

  With the help of your Alt / Set Defaults / reset default settings deleted Adobe your inappropriately custom LR uses by default, and your Reset using challenge all the wrong settings on each selected photo reset you.

  Reset by clicking on the picture changes its settings to whatever the faults of LR are both.  So as long as you set the default values for LR, whenever you used the Reset, it would change the default inappropriate photos.

  Normally, you would customize your default settings to make LR always use always a certain profile of camera use a small noise reduction always have whet active masking or or have LR will automatically use a default value instead of the profile of Auto lens.  You would not normally be set by default LR which included the parameters of toning and color as you did.  Of course, it was just a mistake that you did not know you had done.

• Photos in Camera Raw are red

  I recently downloaded Photoshop and Bridge on my new computer and for some reason every time my RAW files are open in Camera Raw, they are bright red. I can zoom in and out and even tries to change them, and there's just red. I do a lot of my editing in Camera Raw, so if anyone can help me solve this problem it would me much appreciated (: I have attached a screenshot of the problem.)

  

  Hi sableckley,

  Please follow the steps below.

  > Launch Photoshop

  > Click Edit > Preferences > Camera Raw

  > Uncheck the option use display processor

  

  > Click Ok

  > Relaunch Photoshop and verify that the problem.

  Let me know if it helps.

  ~ UL

• strange color (red & green) spots appear after conversion of RAW files to JPEG, someone knows how to fix this?

  Strange color (red & green) spots appear after conversion of RAW files to JPEG, someone knows how to fix this? Thank you.

  Thank you all, I use rather than ProPhoto RGB sRGB and it's better now. Thanks again.

• Why red spots appear on my photo when I import a RAW image in the RAW dialog box?

  I just downloaded 13 items.  When I import a RAW image in the RAW dialog box, large red spots appear on the image, before you do anything.  I can't get rid of them, and restart the program has no effect.  I did not have this problem with 11 elements.  Thanks for any input.

  You probably have the highlight clipping warning

  Press O on the keyboard or click the triangle shown in the screenshot below to turn it off.

  

• Weird fringes on the Red layer, Camera Raw

  Hi, so I shot this image, and on my lenovo desktop, it just seems odd: some red is fringed with burst on the shirt of the woman.

  On macbook from my friend pro with all the old versions of the creative suite (I'm on cloud creative) the reason for this flower just flat and normal, not random red fortification. I gave him my file, it reads with denunciations of the right color. I don't understand what the problem is, our settings are fit and I have never had something like Alright on my pictures, it's pretty horrible

  Any ideas on what is wrong?

  A black and white image was provided as a sample of the correct view on your friend's computer, which is why the question about if b & w, it was what was wanted:

  

  Purple is a box off a pixel or two along the edge color, usually caused by imperfections in the optical system, this is why images of 100% (1:1) were requested, as a single-pixel wide image resized small artifacts cannot really be seen.

  Apparently, despite the original title of this thread, fringe is not the question, but severe oversaturation of the image saved in an OS Viewer, right, or the picture seems also saturated in the cab and the PS?

  Open the raw image of the example provided, the default rendering in ACR is a bit more saturated than the preview built into the camera JPG, but it still seems reasonable to me, on my system.  The red and blue are more saturated.

  According your description on your system the reds are highly saturated.

  Here are 4 versions of the image, with their screenshots associated with ACR.  Two are in sRGB and two are in ProPhotoRGB; each pair is with the default settings, and your car is used in ACR.  Each of the four images Save on your computer (click to get the native size 1000 x 667, then make a right click Save under) and view each in your OS (Windows Photoviewer) level Viewer and then view each in Photoshop and see if any of them look normal.  SRGB and versions of each image ProPhotoRGB looks the same as eachother.

  ACR - default toning:

  

  sRGB - default toning:

  

  ProPhotoRGB - default toning:

  

  ACR - Auto toning:

  

  sRGB - invigorating Auto:

  

  ProPhotoRGB - Auto toning:

  

  If color profiles are stripped of the images included in the forum posts, so here is the same 6 images in a zip file:

  https://DL.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9905000/IMG_6421_Variations.zip

  If these files (at least those of the zipper) Watch severely saturated on your system, especially PS and your OS viewer and/or the sRGB and ProPhotoRGB images look quite a bit different in Photoshop, then it's your monitor profile or your settings of the monitor - display brightness/contrast settings or the video card Control Panel which can be too much for a profile of overcome.

• A Red Camera Raw CS stuff?

  I have a tiff file to download with this post, but obviously, this feature has been disabled, so I'll try and discribe this to the best of my ability. I check Speicherkarten, lens and cameras and reduces the problem to camera raw. I have download all the patches and new updates and still no solution. So, I open a bride in Camera raw file... It is a dng file. There are several red zones throughout the image while its in camera raw, and when I paint on certain areas, making adjustments for example on red exposure a few times will appear as I am brushing where it wasn't before. I need help because it makes pictures of massive I edit very difficult...

  Could this be the warning of cut point out (O)?

• camera raw is red... Help, please

  After the last update of my camera raw looks like thisplease help me fix it! I checked and not the GPU under preferences. No change. Appreciate any input.

  You should uncheck CPU graph use in Camera Raw preferences - not in preferences > performance.

  Press Ctrl + K, while in the Camera Raw window to bring up the Camera Raw preferences

• Red spots in LR 2.6 watch one imported RAW Photos

  I've been a happy user of Lightroom from the beginning, but my allegience it erodes quickly since the upgrade to version 2.6 64 bit.  I noticed immediately that the function of automatic development, which in the past has worked very well and often not required no tweaking from me, just not very good more.  It doesn't seem to do much, it causes the picture to be over-exposed many or I need to change the photo myself.  Another problem is that some photos have huge red spots in some areas, mainly on the white or othe slightly color boxes.  These tasks do not appear on the converted images, but they obviously shouldn't be there when I'm processing in LR and it's very distracting.

  Speaking of the conversion to other formats, the only complaint for a long time, I had with LR that I would like to know if there is an option to disable the opening of records to show pictures of converts.  I don't feel as if I have to see every single photo in Windows Explorer every time that I convert it into another format.  I'm perfectly able to open Windows Explorer myself if I want.  What's worse, is that if you ignore it, it opens a new instance of the Explorer for each converted file.

  Auto-ton has never worked for me. I would just ignore it. If you know the tools, it's much faster and more reliable for all this by yourself.

  Red spots: you probably have the indication burst enabled clipping. In your histogram in the top right, there is a small triangle pointing upward. Click to disable the warning of overexposure. There is a similar indicator for connect the shadows on the upper left of the histogram. Alternatively, you can press 'J' to switch between modes

  Your last question is on export, I guess? You never convert anything in Lightroom as you never overwrite the original file. In the export Panel, there is an option on the bottom of the list called "post processing". If you don't want to open Explorer, simply set this 'status quo' and save it as an export of new presets.

• Logic Pro - mixture with 1 track in the Red?

  HI folks, I'm just learn to mix and have my song sitting close to the way I like it, I kept all not too high and have used EQ on most of the tracks in my mixture to eliminate some UM and stop the instruments to be buried, however I have noticed that one of my main instruments arouses in the red in about 3.5 in the channel strip. I want to know is this a bad thing and it will cause problems when sending to the control?

  My main stereo output track is of approximately - 3db to leave enough margin, but if one of my pieces of lead is in red, it means that the track is cut?

  I tried to reduce it then becomes lost in the mix and tried to reduce all other tracks, but it does not really help. The FX only I have on it are Silververb Reverb and an EQ that does not have the massive peaks or win. I tried to add a compressor but don't know exactly how to help?

  Any help would be great and as always, thanks in advance!

  Red is much too much output, you cannot unclip a track, try adjusting your entries, you can 'tested' red when you blow of eye, but you don't want t keep it there. Play your song and adjust the levels until you just graze red to your strongest part and the rest of the track remains under the brand. Once the game you can save, now play the same thing you just did!

  also consider verb and post recording eq if you have not already, it will give you much more flexibility on the road when you mix, the less sleep you when you save the more effects you can add later, there are exceptions, but when the reverberation of the recording is not your friend, reverb is false whiskers for little boys or heels high MOM for girls to parts of the raw (Stephen King) that You can save and then add it later. You think that Hendrix went into the studio with a wall of effects boxes? That the strung a right-handed Stratocaster was left-handed and a plexi Marshall to have up to 10 with mic's all over the room, and he was wearing baseball cleats! (Eddie Kramer / me, speculating)

  If you have too much UM

  (1) turn on/down an overhead lighting, especially if you use a micro single coil.

  (2) try a different collection or watch in what you can do with what you have (single coil pickups are magnets noise when it comes to ground), some guitars are just dang noisy.

  (3) to adjust the gain of the amplifier, or your effects while it's fun to look like Tony Iommi and Max Cavalera and Brian Hayner to giving birth to a new distortion pedal at the same time, it is difficult to capture without sounding like a giant Bumblebee until you get the hang of recording.

  (4) to consider an external suppressor or see this document

  https://documentation.Apple.com/en/LogicStudio/effects/index.html#Chapter=4%26se ction = 10% 26tasks = true

  (5) a compressor can be used before or after mixing, as all the things you just plug in and walk away.

  http://www.PremierGuitar.com/articles/21690-the-recording-guitarist-dances-with-compresseurs