SX 500 action shots

Similar Questions

• Indoor action shots w / EOS Rebel T3

  The EOS Rebel T3 will be photos inside action decent as a dog of the trial where the dogs are running and go more high jumps?

  Frost action requires a fast shutter speed. A fast shutter speed does not allow light ambient a lot of time to cook an exhibition on the sensor. There is usually not enough light inside to work with a fast shutter speed, then one of the two measures of compensation should be used: 1) use an aperture of the lens wide angle (opening) or 2.) increase the ISO sensitivity.

  1.). solution of opening is not possible with the basic kit lenses. You want something like an 85mm f/1.8 or a 70-200 mm f/2.8, which allow more than 4 or more than 2 times lighter (respectively) to the camera from a kit lens.
  2). a crop sensor camera will look worse at ISO high equivalent that a full camera frame. I don't think you want exceed 800 ISO on the rebels. You would probably get the same image quality on a FF 6 d 2 stops at ISO high (about 3200).

  Between 2 stops, you win with a goal of 1.8 and 2 stops more would gain in image quality high ISO on a full frame sensor, you might receive something like 16 x more light to work than what a rebel and kit lens allow. Divided between increasing the shutter speed or by decreasing the noise digital is a big difference.

  The 85mm or Canon 100 mm similar lenses are only about $325 or $375 for sale. It's an inexpensive way to make a big difference immediately, and both will be installed also on a camera full frame if you come one day.

  Good luck!

• Speed up the CC of Lightroom on new computer when editing lots of sports action scenes.

  Just built a new computer. Asked to be able to perform more precisely the simultaneously lightroom and photoshop and other programs running in the bg, Outlook, a browser, etc...

  Lightroom is even slower I want trying to mass sport edition action shots. What can I do to make it work faster?

  Here's my system of lightroom Info:

  Version of Lightroom: CC 2015.4 [1060496]

  License: Creative Cloud

  Operating system: Windows 10

  Version: 10.0

  Application architecture: x 64

  System architecture: x 64

  Number of logical CPUs: 4

  Processor speed: 3.3 GHz

  Built-in memory: 16267,6 MB

  Real memory for Lightroom: 16267,6 MB

  Real memory used by Lightroom: 3388,5 MB (20.8%)

  Virtual memory used by Lightroom: 4431,4 MB

  Memory cache size: 979,6 MB

  Maximum thread count used by Camera Raw: 4

  Camera Raw SIMD optimization: SSE2, AVX, AVX2

  System DPI setting: 96 DPI

  Composition of the Bureau enabled: Yes

  Exhibition: 1) 1600 x 900, 2) 1920 x 1080

  Entry types: Multitouch: no, built-in touch: No, built-in pen: no, touch external: No, external pen: no keyboard: No.

  Graphic processor News:

  Intel(r) HD Graphics 530

  Check the supported OpenGL: past

  Vendor: Intel

  Version: 3.3.0 - Build 20.19.15.4331

  Renderer: Intel(r) HD Graphics 530

  LanguageVersion: 3.30 - Build 20.19.15.4331

  The application folder: C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Lightroom

  Library path: C:\Users\Tiffany\Pictures\Lightroom\Lightroom Catalog.lrcat

  Settings folder: C:\Users\Tiffany\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\Lightroom

  Plugins installed:

  (1) home canon Plugin

  (2) Facebook

  (3) Flickr

  (4) Imagenomic Portraiture

  (5) attachment Plugin Leica

  (6) home Plugin Nikon

  (7) ON1 Effects 10

  (8) ON1 Improve 10

  (9) ON1 Photo 10

  (10) ON1 Portrait 10

  (11) ON1 Resize 10

  (12) ON1 Resize 10

  Config.LUA flags: None

  Map #1: Vendor: 8086

  Feature: 1912

  Subsystem: 79721462

  Review: 6

  Video memory: 128

  Map #2: Seller: 1414

  Device: 8 c

  Subsystem: 0

  Revision: 0

  Video memory: 0

  AudioDeviceIOBlockSize: 1024

  AudioDeviceName: Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio)

  AudioDeviceNumberOfChannels: 2

  AudioDeviceSampleRate: 44100

  Build: LR5x102

  Direct2DEnabled: false

  GPUDevice: not available

  OGLEnabled: true

  In Lightroom, go to Preferences, then click on the performance tag, then uncheck the box to disable the GPU acceleration.

• I'm considering buying a camera Cyber Shot DSC - H70.

  . Is there a time limit when shooting?

  Ok. Thank you for your response.

  I understand the situation a bit better now. The time of the shutter based on my tests show a lower shutter lag 40 seconds at wide angle et.45 remotely full telephoto. What can help is when you update prior and then well press the shutter button. If you prefocus and then it will reduce the shutter lag in environ.02 seconds. It's very fast!

  The zoom 10 x is perfect for closer to the action as starting at 25 mm. You will be able to get a close-up view to see people catch a baseball or a football game action.

  The DSCH70 also has an Adanced Sports mode that allows to take fast action shots. As with all the photographs if it is bright outside, it works better compared with that it is darker. These modes are very effective when I use them.

  I know that many people have this camera and other devices of the H series and none of them are disappointed.

  I hope that answers your question. Please do not hesitate to contact us here again at any time. If you need advice on settings or troubleshooting of your images, then please ask us. We are here to help. We want allows you to get great shots of the camera.

  Gavin

• Canon, in the face of fast moving subjects 18-55 kit lens?

  Hi everyone, I'm new here.

  I was doing one shoot the other day on very fast subjects that changed a lot of direction (dogs). Got some good shots but the vast majority were evil out of the home, which was a real shame. I want to know if it's the lens, the body or my technique that does not reach me.

  I'm relatively new to photography, so maybe it's that my settings are wrong or my technique is bad. I'm using the lens wide open, not mode live view with servo AF on a 600 d body. Usually when I focus I pan just the camera turn to follow the subject, sometimes pressing down when I want to shoot.

  I plan the upgrade to the 17-55 f2.8 because it is sharp wide open and has a constant and fast opening and USM and full-time manual focus with a correct focus ring.

  Thank you.

  Your problems are probably due to a combination of factors. IMO, auto focus performance is determined by three things...

  1. camera AF capabilities. Your 600 d has 9 AF points system. Only one of these points - the center one - is the "best" type of cross that is more responsive and follows the movement better. When shooting moving subjects with your camera, it would be useful to limit yourself to using only the central point. (Note: other Canon cameras have more advanced systems of the AF.) T4i, T5i, 60 d, 50 d and 40 d has 9 AF points that looks like, but all nine points are the cross-type sesnors 'better '. The 7 d and 70 d AF 19 points, with all of the nineteen cut type. 5DIII and 1DX 61 points AF with up to 41 Cup type, depending on the lens used.)

  Some cameras are also optimized for performance development. For example, the models of the series 1 d and 7 d have a separate chip driving AF... While most (maybe all?) other models share the tasks of AF by the same processor that handles images.

  2 capacity autofocus lens: Yes, a reader of "USM" (Ultrasonic Motor) objective as the EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 would be an improvement on your kit lens. It is faster, less hunting and is quieter than a 'micro' such as is used in the cheaper kit lens. (Note: there is a version a bit more of the 18-55mm with drive focus "STM" or "Stepper motor", which is better than the micro motor version, but still not as fast as USM.) STM lenses are running silent and particularly well suited for video.)

  A larger aperture, like the 17-55 / 2.8 (as opposed to your 18-55/3.5-5.6), offers more light to the camera AF sensors, allowing for faster and better follow-up.

  No, forget all the EF 50/1.8... Of course, he got more openness, but it uses a micro motor and is widely known to be developed slower, less accurate and likely to hunt more than a USM lens. If you want a quick and of course focusing in short and medium telephoto, look to the EF 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 100/2 or L-135/2 lenses. These all use USM drive and are much faster and more accurate than the EF 50/1.8. They have also one or two larger max aperture stop that even the 17-55 / 2.8 (or any other zoom lens), provide more light for the camera to work with. Using a f2.8 lens or "faster" will give optimal performance on your camera, with the centre of focus.

  A few drinks simply are not designed to be developed fast, even if they have more large openings and USM focus. Macro lenses, for example, have to move their focus group a long, long way to go from infinity to 1:1 magnification tends to be slower. In addition, very large aperture lenses such as the 85 / 1.2 L are generally slower... Design. Very large aperture lenses and macro focus on precision, to deal with the shallow depth of the effects on the ground, rather than speed.

  Other objectives are designed to the very fast development. All 70-200, the 100-400 and all the first 300mm lenses and more, are quite fast focusing. Extreme telephotos such as 500 and 600 mm can be difficult to get and keep on target, however.

  Some third-party lenses also make use of similar to Canon's USM development drive, to help the performance of the update. Sigma HSM and Tamron lenses USD are examples.

  3. skills of the user is the third key factor making the update performance... that is, your technique.

  You mention servos 'AF '...  Just to clarify, yourcamera has three focus modes: one-shot, HAVE Focus and AI Servo... There is no "Servo AF. The correct mode to use with moving subjects is AI Servo. Perhaps what you are already doing. In any case, One Shot is almost only used with stationary subjects (there are techniques of 'pre-focus' where it can be used with moving subjects, but those who are rarely used). I Focus is not really a foucs mode at all... It is supposed to decide for you, if the subject is moving, then change to use the correct mode. I have not tested on a recent, but older model where I tried, I found a slight delay that causes a lot of discussion missed shots. He also simply chose the wrong mode sometimes. It might be interesting to note that Canon more pro-oriented models have same AI Focus... they offer only One Shot or AI Servo.

  So, make sure that you are using AI Servo to maximize performance when shooting moving subjects.

  You also use a slow shutter speed. I inflate the ISO and try to use 1/500 or faster shutter speeds. 1/320 or 1/400 is very marginal, trying to stop the movement of the subject with something as fast as the dogs in action. In fact, more you are close to the subject, shutter speed more fast you will really need to freeze movement.

  Cannon also noted that the 18MP models are a little prone to blur shake camera - probably because of the high density of pixels on the sensor sites - and recommends keeping shutter speeds upwards to be sure to get a sharp shot, even with IS lenses. There was a white paper on this subject, on the Canon website. I don't know if it is still available online.

  You should be able to get nice images, specific to ISO 1600... a complete stop of two higher and you to use much faster shutter speed. However, if the indoor shooting it may be areas that are not as well informed and are hard to get a sharp shot.

  You can shoot RAW files, so that you can more fully control noise reduction and factors in post-processing exposure when using high ISO.

  A popular technique among photographers of sports/action is back button to the point. See this article online, on this subject: http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml

  BBF separates the function of the development of the trigger. You use rather your thumb on one of the rear camera buttons to start and stop the development. Many users feel that this allows more safe and followed acquistion with moving subjects. You can configure your camera for BBF and give it a try. It is possible for action/sport/HAVE Servo shooting, it's actually usable once, too... I used it enough only for a few years now.

  With the help of BBF, I start AF well before that I want to take the picture, then focus on the maintenance of the area to focus on the right of the subject where I want the lens to focus continuing to follow and maintain the emphasis... then take pictures along the way. I use the Center Focus point alone, much of the time. This could lead to too centered images, so I try to fit a little loose from time to time, allowing cropping to make that fewer centered images. I sometimes use other than the Center AF point... but who wouldn't recommend with action shot on a camera that does not have the type sensors crossed to peripheral issues, such as your 600 d.

  I use a pair of 7Ds and a number of USM lenses fast development of shoot a lot of sports. With a few years of practice under my belt, on avearage I nail focus on 95 to 98 on 100 shots using this type of gear with the above techniques. I turned to 4000 images at an event recent and marked about 30 people like "rejected" to missed focus problems (and I bet at least half of those who are my fault... not the machine). There may be a few others that are marginally acceptable (i.e., can make an 8 x 10 beautiful print, but seem not good any more greater than). Yet, even if there are 80 or 120 spleen focus, it is only 2 or 3%... much better than only 10% in short.

  I would say that qualities of objective performance and user techniques generally count more than the camera well, or at least can largely compensate for any camera shortcomings. I got results almost as good 50 d and 30 d before it (which were similar to your 600 d AF system) and even with 10 days earlier ("lower" than your AF system). Although I'm a bit away, I didn't like good luck shooting moving subjects using 5 d Mark II (I mostly just use it for stationary subjects)... the 5 d Mark III has a much better AF system and follows the movement much better.

  I hope this helps!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• How can I remove an account from synergy, Palm across the profile

  I have reported this Palm support, but I hope that someone else has seen cela and knows the answer (Hardbeatz, this should be easy for you).

  I let someone else connect to their facebook account on my pre +. He immediately put all his contacts in my contact list. Not what I wanted. So I deleted this account in the Facebook application, in the address book application and everywhere else, I could find a reference to it.  However, when I "sync" my Palm profile, this e-mail address continues to appear and returns the error that he uses an invalid password (Fortunately he didn't remember". So, whenever I have sych my profile, I get this error.

  Coincidentally, I got a replacement pre + a few days later. So I activated the phone and it continues to show that email address when I go through the process of"premiere". I ran doctor OS, twice. I did the reset/full erase, twice.

  Every time I have "sync" my contacts with my Palm profile, I get this "incorrect password" for the other person's facebook account. Really? Where that little info?

  It isn't on my profile page palm, not in my facebook client, not in my address book...

  I spent a few hours talking with a person well-informed VERY to Palm support. He opened a ticket because he couldn't solve it.

  OK, I have the solution and I must say that I am surprised at the answer (and not in a good way).

  It turns out that synergy will be integrated into the accounts without asking. He sees no difference with an additional e-mail address and someone using their email address to check facebook from my phone.

  Palm note: It is a horrible and dangerous and quite unexpected. It is essential that synergy wonder if I want to do this before you take this step. I had more than 500 new contacts of a person with my phone for 30 seconds. And I got constant actions of backup or automatic and manual synchronization error messages. Nice to wake up to the error messages. This behavior is a bug. Behavior wrong and undocumented. Until fix you this, there should be a label on every new phone that says: 'be careful, never lend this phone to anyone, unless they promise to do nothing more than to make telephone calls'.

  Solution: It is in fact just as crazy as the problem, in my humble OPINION. When someone connects to the facebook app, synergy adds this e-mail account to 4 applications! A reasonable person would assume that a remove the e-mail account of the FaceBook application that would solve. In fact, it was smart enough to delete contacts 500 +, he shot on the unwanted FaceBook account. But imagine that it would also add this account to 3 other applications? Although it adds account 4 apps, it wasn't smart enough to REMOVE IT from these applications.

  Go to more than 3 applications. Photos, address book and calendar. Once you have deleted the email address of these 4 (Yes 4) apps, the problem is resolved. WUH? I had already done. Then I went to a replacement phone, and apparently not all of those changes when this is stated in my Palm profile before I activated the new material. So he put those references into every time I reset or "doctored" the phone. When I re-trace my steps, I found that the e-mail account was back in the calendar, even though I had removed it several times.

  Palm support had me once again, remove it, then run a manual backup. That seemed to make the deletion permanent.

  In the application (at the top left of the screen) menu, choose 'Preferences and accounts' to remove the rogue e-mail account. Delete this email account in FaceBook, Photos, address book and calendar.

  I don't have the courage to let someone try it with other guests of the social network, MySpace, or Twitter, but I hope that they behave in the same way.

  Moreover, Palm support this increased rapidly and has been VERY helpful to understand this. It took them a while to understand it, but they kept the call and try things until they got it. I'm surprised, it was not documented somewhere, but I'm really impressed by how much they knew. They did a great job! Kudos to Palm support!

  I hope this helps others, and I hope fixes Palm synergy runaway nature and provides a more granular control on what she accompanied...

• View Web suddenly not indicating the area

  I have a web application that I place or the profiles of members. In the detail view, I have the tag '{module_webappscustomer id = "28443" filter = "later" useBackupTemplate = "true" resultsPerPage = '1' hideEmptyMessage = 'true'}' which shows the list of backup I discover the implementation of this web application. I have 2 questions, it is more pressing. Web page layout app worked wonders and I ran across with 5 different fake profiles with everything showing. Suddenly, nothing shows up when nothing has changed? If I remove the tag in "hideEmptyMessage ="true", it will show some elements do message when there are submitted by the customer to show and showed yesterday.» Here's the code for that domain (I've highlighted the code who is suddenly not working I've seen work perfectly) below. I have the same code on a card mini profile who worked and pulling on the main list view to show with another provision. The two do not work?

  < style >

  IMG {}

  display: block;

  margin: auto;

  }

  IFRAME {}

  display: block;

  margin: auto;

  Padding: 25px;

  }

  < / style >

  < div class = "row" >

  < div class = "large-6 way-12 small-12 columns" >

  < div class = "team-specific" >

  < class figure = 'wow swing' data-wow-duration = "0" > < img src = "{tag_profile photo_value}" >

  < div class = "ch-info" > < / div >

  < / figure >

  < / div >

  < / div >

  < div class = "large-6 way-12 small-12 columns" style = "" text-align: center; ">"

  < img src="/_assets/img/Player_Final.png? Action = miniature & amp; algorithm = fill_proportional & amp; w width = 175 "width ="175"alt = 'Athlete' title = 'Athlete' >

  < h3 style = "" text-align: center; "> {tag_name} < / h3 >"

  < / div >

  < div class = "large-6 way-12 small-12 columns" style = "" text-align: center; ">"

  {module_webappscustomer id = "28443" filter = "later" useBackupTemplate = "true" resultsPerPage = '1' hideEmptyMessage = 'true'}

  < / div >

  < / div >

  < div class = "big-12 medium-12 small-12 columns" >

  < h4 style = "" text-align: center; "> overview < / h4 >"

  < class p = 'lead' style = "" text-align: center; "> {tag_description} < /p >"

  < / div >

  < div class = "big-12 medium-12 small-12 columns" >

  < h4 style = "" text-align: center; "> action shots < / h4 >"

  < / div >

  < div class = "border small-12 medium-3 large-3 columns" > < img src = "{tag_action shot 1_value}" > < / div >

  < div class = "border small-12 medium-3 large-3 columns" > < img src = "{tag_action shot 2_value}" > < / div >

  < div class = "border small-12 medium-3 large-3 columns" > < img src = "{tag_action shot 3_value}" > < / div >

  < div class = "border small-12 medium-3 large-3 columns" > < img src = "{tag_action shot 4_value}" > < / div >

  < div class = "big-12 medium-12 small-12 columns" >

  < h4 style = "" text-align: center; "> highlight reels < / h4 > < / div >"

  < ul class = "small-block-grid-1 way-block-grid-1 big-block-grid-2" >

  < li >

  " < iframe width ="500"height ="300"src =" https://www.YouTube.com/embed/ {tag_highlight coil 1}? rel = 0 & amp; controls = 0 "frameborder ="0"allowfullscreen =" "> < / iframe >

  < /li >

  < li >

  " < iframe width ="500"height ="300"src =" https://www.YouTube.com/embed/ {tag_highlight coil 2}? rel = 0 & amp; controls = 0 "frameborder ="0"allowfullscreen =" "> < / iframe >

  < /li >

  < /ul >

  Thanks for any help...

  Sarah

  Thank you for the answers. The strange is happening with all of this. I even went back to remove then reeseting them. The collection has what I need, but data was not appear, no matter how many and I had no time to adjust so the move the items to the Web application and connect a little different temporarily. To add, all shared is that someone would normally do and is usually the way to correct. I know that it was connected because I have no show available points. People were assigned and everything, but it would not show. He showed for one, but not someone else, who was 2 good test people live before. I'm telling you that is the answer because they are the normal way to check and make sure everything is right.

  Best regards

  Sarah Mullin

• Camera for beginners? I have looked at the T6i, but I have no idea as to what I should buy. Help?

  I'm a dummy when it comes to photography. I have 6 children who play sports and have paid a hundred dollars over the years for action shots. My husband suggested I get my own camera and take some pictures. I would like to use the camera to take to many pictures of my kids playing sports. It's football season and I have 2 players to varsity in high school, 2 Peewee players and a leader. I'm sitting up in the bleachers around the 40-50 line yard (I feel like I can see also the two sense here) and I was about 50 yards away (give or take a bit of) the actual field. Kickoff is 07:30 here in Texas, and it is very close to sunset the Sun. When night falls, the lights of the Stadium are on like any other football game Friday night you can imagine. I want to know what the camera is a good camera for beginners. I have reflected on the T6 and the T6i, but I have no idea of what is the difference. They both come with a bundle, objective 18-55mm and 75-300mm EF. What is the difference between a DSLR and SLR? I need just broken down into language clear so that I can make a good choice. Which would you choose and why?

  More mm, the highest magnification of the image that you will become.  The answers will vary widely depending on who you ask but to keep it really simple (at the risk of being wrong technically)... think of the magnification of the picture that you would get with binoculars in terms of x... I would use 50mm as the basis... which is 1 X.  So 18 mm divided by 50mm will give you 0.36 X and 55mm would give you 1.1 X and 300mm will give you 6 X.  To complicate matters, the size of the camera sensor, the final image is further expanded.  For example the T6/T6i (a cropped sensor device) will give you another 1.6 X magnification compared to a 5 d Mark III camera (a full frame).  The numbers aren't important, rather the idea... a number greater than 1 gives you more magnification - bringing the object more closer to you.

  For digital SLR cameras (full frame), 50mm is normally considered to be 1 X - less than 50mm focal length, we call this wide-angle (lenses).  For FL 50mm more, we call this telephoto lens photo (lenses).

• Lens EF-s 50mm f/1.8 VTS good for a woman "point and shoot"?

  As my title, my wife is a photographer 'point and shoot '.  It uses mainly its point and shoot at the school where she teaches to take portrait photos and the occasional action shot of his students (Pre-school-age, inside and outside).  The EF-s 50mm f/1.8 VTS goal would be a good 'all around' lens for these types of shots?  I have a rebel T6i I bought because some of the more advanced features (variable lens and manual control) to a DSLR wanted on a point and shoot and the ease of use for my wife.  I also wanted the WiFi features as my wife has no idea what a SD card is (it is very technically challenged) and I wanted an easy way for her to transfer his punches to his iPad (which the T6i has accomplished admirably).

  Thank you

  John

  "Not very good for free kicks or a groups because of the depth of field with the fixed focal length but can be artistic."

  It's a little... ah... bad!  Top of the list when is to compare a target of 50 mm zoom, a prime number is more limited to what he does well.  This means that you need to weigh the bennys for inconvenience.

  A 50mm on a T6 can be great for the quick because you do not have to be as close to the child (s).  It may be a problem because you can not be closer to the child(ren).  Do you see this trend a bit. The 'deep-fo-field' DOF, has nothing to do with it in this case.

  No Point and shoot, P & S, who deserve to have confined to a fixed lens or privileged.  That is to say, the series G of Canon P & s.  I have a G15 and it ia a great camera.  However, this level of P & S is not at a great price.

  Sorry, but the lens I would recommend for her and you won't come cheaply or the other.  But you already dropped the piece on a great device so here is my thought, EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM.  It almost gives you the best of both worlds.  It's fast.  It has a good range of focal lengths.  It has a remarkable IQ.  It will be the T6 as close to the best P & S there.

  So my answer to long-term to your question, ' EF-s 50mm f/1.8 VTS good for a woman "point and shoot"?

  No, it wouldn't.

• 70%

  I think the upgrade of my Canon Rebel t1I in the Canon 60 d.  What would be the advantanges of the 60 d.  I've been looking at the specs and comparing the two cameras, but nothing is jumping on me.   I only use my DSLR for a year, but I took classes and I think I'm ready for the upgrade, I just want to make sense.

  I will go through some of the differences...

  Your T1i has a 15 megapixel sensor. The 60 d has a sensor 18 megapixel. Although there is a difference of 3 megapixels, you will probably notice that for much since most of the images not take advantage of all the available image data (eg. When displaying it on screen or print, usually the resolution is lower than the native resolution of the camera.) This difference probably won't be blow by you.

  The sensor of the 60 d is a little better with noise and high ISO performance. Your hats T1i out at 3200 ISO, but even at 3200, noise is quite high (e.g. use only when desperate). I always tried to keep the ISO on the T1i equal or less than 800. When you arrive at 1600 or 3200 you must acknowledge that you will have a lot of image noise and be ready to cope. The 60 d goes to ISO 6400 - but again, it will be noisy. I keep it at 1600 or below. But the net net, is that you get an extra stop of ISO performance (both in max and potential you would generally as exploitable (low noise moderated)). Probably, you will see the improved ISO performance because this corresponds to a lower at each ISO noise that you usually use as well as you to get an extra stop ISO if needed.

  The focus on both system cameras alike, as you see the familiar 9 autofocus points on the 60 d, just like your T1i. But on your T1i, only the central point is a cross-type AF point (point of focus of double axis that the phase detect AF as well horizontally as vertically, it tends to be faster, more accurate and it is difficult thing missing to update.) 8 outside points are only single axis. On the 60 d all 9 focus areas are the best cross points. The focus system is a nice benefit.

  The flash pop up on the 60 d may function as a 'master' to control the Speedlites off camera (they must be Canon or compatible Speedlite capable of function as 'slave' off-camera flashes – not all the flashes support this). Work as a master does not support the flash pop up on the T1i.

  The LCD screen on the back the 60 d is articulated. It swings out and somersaults (it can face forward if you want to).

  The 60 d has a monochrome LCD on top of the camera. In front of this screen are several buttons for instant access to AF, reader, ISO and metering mode (but also a 5th button that activates the LCD backlighting).

  The T1i has a main dial (right behind the shutter button on the top/front corner). The 60 d has a control layout more like bodies of Canon pro level. It adds a great 2nd dial on the back of the camera. They are positioned so that while the front button is controlled by your index finger, the rear wheel is controlled (very comfortably btw) by the thumb. When shooting in manual mode, the shutter speed of controls front dial and the rear wheel opening of controls. When shooting in a semi-auto (P, Av or Tv) the rear dial controls exposure compensation. I _really_ prefer the layout of the double control dial. It provides more rapid (not to mention more comfortable) control the operation of the device.

  The 60 d is much better at video. It can handle 1920 x 1080 at 30 frames per second. She also better master audio when recording video.

  The mode dial has a setting dedicated to the "Bulb" mode (on the T1i, you can get to that by adjusting the shutter speed possible longer) and the mode dial also has a unique Custom mode ("C"). You put the camera mode you will find will swtich often, then use the menus to record that as your "custom" mode He remembers everything you set... When you want to restore these settings that you just spent in custom mode. It can be a quick way to switch between modes (for example if you're shooting sports but want to swtich between AI Servo focus and One Shot concentrate quickly depending on whether you're shooting people candid action shots vs.) I use the mode in astrophotography as a framing and exposure of test mode.

• EF 75-300mm f/4-5. 6 III USM

  Do I need a tripod to take action shots with this lens for my camera T3I?

  Probably not. More details would help, but action requires high shutter speeds and generally good panning skills.

• BB10 Dev Alpha bezel Swipe

  I'm not able to get the action shot of bezel superior to register on the Dev Alpha for any of my applications.  I tried everything I found these tips and on github.

  I tried the sample project swipemenu.js WebWorks https://github.com/blackberry/WebWorks-Samples/tree/master/swipemenu. I packed up the sample application to the Alpha of Dev, and I can't get the hang of the bezel to work.  I can click on the button and trigger javascript code to display the menu, but this isn't really a shot of bezel.

  I added the BB10 the tag in my config file. I placed the following in my appssection (found here - https://developer.blackberry.com/html5/apis/blackberry.app.html#.event:swipedown).

  But I never see the alert, now how the shot of the upper bezel of importance.

  I also place the file javascript WebWorks (webworks - 1.0.2.9.js) in my application.

  I do not use the BBUI.js for this app because it causes too many conflicts at this time. Y at - it someone who has got the hang of the upper bezel to work in BB10 WebWorks app on a Dev Alpha device.

  OS version: 10.0.9.338

  10 BlackBerry WebWorks SDK 1.0.2.9

  you expect the event ready webworks and you enroll.

  https://developer.BlackBerry.com/HTML5/documentation/creating_a_bb10_app_2007539_11.html

• Mobile swipe left / right characteristic.

  Hello

  Environment: Oracle XE 11 GR 2: Windows7, APEX 4.2.2.00.11

  I write a Mobile app of the APEX with a list view page which displays a unique registration only of display items.

  The list view is based on a complex query.

  How can I use the right mobile feature by sweeping left and drag on the form to move previous and next records.

  I guess I need to capture the results of the query on the list view page in a collection and to identify the id of the record selected in the list.

  Can any body help with a method and steps of code please?

  Concerning

  ADE

  Jeff tardif Merci,

  Works well, even if I find the Iphone4s scrolling to the bottom of the page with a finger inadvertently triggers an action shot unless I scroll very slowly.

  Will test on other mobile devices.

  Concerning
  ADE

• Need help to add lights

  I have a photo of a snowmobile and a rider with an impressive décor and I was wondering if someone can help me with the addition of a realistic looking light for lighthouses with CS6? Disappointed, it wasn't an action shot, but I'm sure someone knows how to make it look like one and could guide me through it. I mostly used the CS6 to retouch my photos but I'm not an expert, it change like that. Thanks for any help!

  It's one of those situations with countless ways to do so.  I'm trying to think of an easy way...

  Make a new layer, select a very large soft brush completely and put her down several times with a soft yellow color.  Then select a shade lighter and the stamp lowering at the same place on the same layer.  Use the pen tool to create a cone-shaped path with rounded end and choose the path.  Add a layer mask.

  

  If the edges of the beam are too hard, soften the mask with the mask properties panel (I reversed the BG, so you can see the light go down better)

  

  

• Tabluar form hide/show items on the loading of the page

  Hi all
  
  Apex 4.1
  
  I use JS to display or hide fields, based on the values of other fields, cela in a tabular presentation. So it is used as a work-around as dynamic actions are not able to do out of the box on tabular forms (that I know of).
  The code I use is something like this:
  
  In the page header:
  
  function test (pThis) {}
  get the index of line curren on changes
  var currIndex = $('select[name="'+pThis.name+'"]').index ($x (pThis.id));
  If (pThis.value < 0) {}
  . style.display $('input[name="f06"]') [currIndex] = 'block ';
  }
  else {}
  . style.display $('input[name="f06"]') [currIndex] = 'none ';
  }
  }
  
  In the attributes of the item in the column 'source '.
  OnChange = "JavaScript:test (this); »
  
  This fires that when the source column is changed, but not working when you load at the start page when it is filled with already stored reports. So it works only when a field is changed to the hand.
  
  How can I force this action shot the loading of the page so the rule (hide fields) also gets applied to existing records?
  
  Concerning
  Bottom

  Down de Klerk wrote:
  Hi all

  Thanks for the comments.
  So far I m unable to make it work. Fire code (debug using alert messages, and these show upwards), but the suggested procedure does not work.

  I tried all kinds of entry points, as for example the test via dynamic when a button is clicked, tried action on loading the page, and also via the $(document) .ready (function
  The function is executed and nothing happends, no error does not code so should be ok.
  I'll investigate further and let you know what happends. Don't know if the class type of the associated field f06 might have something to do with it, but one is LOV/Select list type

  This code is looking for input i.e. text, checkbox etc and will not find a slelect list.

  You must change the jquery like this selector

   $(document).ready(function () {
        jQuery.each($('select[name="f06"]'), function () {
             hide_field(this);
        });
   alert("function executed");
   });