the eos 7 d is a full frame?

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• All the benefits of trading on a full frame Canon 6 d to the top of a 60 d for horse photography?

  Hello, I am considering upgrading my Canon 60 d to a full frame (6 d), I usually shoot horses in action, and not profiles of head using a Canon 70-200 L IS lens. I would be interested in your comments about whether if the cost would benefit me with this type of photography. Also extra lens suggestions would be appreciated.

  I do a ton of equestrian photography.

  I use a pair of 7 d for the vast majority (90% or more). Those who have essentially the same sensor and high ISO capability as your 60 d, just a slightly more sophisticated (but more sensitive) autofocus system and superior pace. I also have a 5 d Mark II that is proven sometimes useful in low-light situations, but I use it much less than cameras of the harvest. The 5DII can do a higher than the 7 d ISO stop (a 6 d ISO offer slightly higher than the 5DII, as well as the light focusing very low ability).

  Mainly, I'd rather have the 'additional' scope of the cameras of culture as the ISO capabilities of full frame. My most used lenses are the 70 - 200/2.8, 70 - 200/4 IS, IS 300/2.8 and 300/4 IS. I also wear and sometimes use 28-135 IS, 10-22mm, 24-70/2.8 and a number of shorter premium (portrait, macro, tilt-shift).

  In order to have the "scope" of a 300 mm lens on crop camera, with a device full photo frame, I'd have to lug around a 500 mm. No thanks!

  But in general it is more down to the camera lenses, on what they are used...

  What lenses and cameras I use depends on the type of event, I'm shooting, I can be or want to be mobile, an arena covered, or not, if I don't work out.

  For the dressing, I often have to work in covered arenas. But I'm not mobile at dressage events, so I can implement a 300/2.8 on a tripod to reach the other end of the arena and use a 70-200/2.8 for closer shots. I prefer to stop a bit to a depth of field when I can, but like f2.8 available if necessary to get the shots in the darker areas of the arena. As a general rule, except at a very high level, training cannot and must not be photographed with flash. Most of the horses and riders of dressage junior and amateur is not accustomed to Flash. Dressage is progressing more slowly than some other events, so I can shoot with a slow shutter speed in many cases... 1/250 and 1/320 is sometimes possible.

  Hunter/jumper, stock, gymkhana, and English/Western contests are types of events where I need to be more mobile and tend to use the 300/4 IS and 70-200/4 IS for shooting especially pocket. These types of events are sometimes covered arenas, but are often in locations open, not covered. Even if the scene is covered, it is likely be well lit.  It is possible to use the fill flash, but I try to avoid as much as possible and do not use it too close.

  Hunter/jumper, jumping arena, gymkhana and all kinds of competition stock tend to move around, so I need to use 1/640 or speeds, faster shutter so I want to freeze the action.

  For path testing I try to wear minimal gear because I walk the track with the horses and the riders (not all 6 to 10 miles of most of the formations of TT), but it is completely outdoors in a good light. I use especially 28-135 on a camera and 300/4 IS on the other. I had trouble with the noise of the 5DII in settings quiet test track, but not with the 7 d or even using the 5DII in arenas noiser (I know the 6 d and 5DIII have "calm" modes, but did not use them, what isn't sure how effective they are, or if there are any other questions their use.)

  Cross-country skiing is a type of event where I always struggle to know what to do. If I work close to the House or take a walk outside on the course, I could take more lenses and tripods. But if I'm hiking, I'll opt for the lighter things.

  I sometimes use the 5DII full frame planned, portraits stationary (after the test to see if the horse responds to the sound of the shutter). I also sometimes will use it in particularly dark locations. But usually even those I can find bright spots and those with my 7 d work instead. Then I might be only limited shooting in particular parts of the arena.

  If I could wear only one, it would probably be a device to harvest... on a budget of 60 D-70 D sensor, 7Ds work well for me for more than 4 years and more than 100,000 clicks and will probably get replaced with 7 d Mark II when those who are available. (In the past I have widely used 50 d, 30 d, and 10 d, too.) A unit of harvest gives the most versatility and flexibility, IMO. It offers the "extra scope" which allows the smaller, lighter to, cheaper to serve, as well as all the goals both lenses EF and EF-S can be used (a full frame camera is a bit limited, EF only).

  But, of course, of 6 d low light capabilities could be nice sometimes. It's probably a good two ISO stops rain able your 60 d or my 7Ds... and it's AF is able to concentrate in the lower light about two stops, too (-3 EV, compared to 1 EV). Note that the 6 d is limited to a large extent to the Center AF point only, for any AI Servo/shooting action and low light. (It would be good for me... same thing is true of my 5DII and even with 7Ds and 50Ds, who have much more capable peripheral focus, I still use as the center of a large part of the time.)

  I hope this helps!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Is the a57 a full frame camera?

  I'm trying to find out if the a57 is a camera full frame.

  Sorry but the A57 SLT is not a camera full frame is an APS - C, the camera only full frame in the range Sony right now IM A99.

• I have a slide show full frame, which works great, but is there a way to keep "next" arrows "prev" aligned vertically when the browser size changes? Also is there is way to add a border to a slide show full frame as well?

  I have a slide show full frame, which works great, but is there a way to keep "next" arrows "prev" aligned vertically when the browser size changes?

  Or a way to pin things generally vertically centered?

  Also is there is way to add a border to a slide show full frame as well?

  Thank you

  Hello.  For the problem of alignment, of the research this window https://helpx.adobe.com/muse/using/objects.html#Pinning%20objects%20to%20the%20browser%20w

  For once, click once on the slide show, and then click New. In this way you access the first image. Determine the race it and view it in the browser. It should work.

• Format of the crop sensor / subject remotely / calibration full AOV equivalent framework

  While using the crop sensor format, how can we adjust the distance of subjects to have the same field of view (AOV) in return, full frame, assuming that the current focal length in use has already been evaluated in order to take into account the standard of 35 mm film? I have the EOS Rebel SL1.

  character_stops wrote:

  Yes. I'm sure that the camera I have is the smallest format. That's why I think I need to experiment with several lenses to see how everyone reacts. I think that the format of my camera is 2 x 3, but I'm not completely sure.  After my image size more great cameras in Ps, I chose a preset of the photo, and it converted to 2 x 3 inches. Would this mean a culture factor much more than 7.5?

  Do not confuse "cropping" in Photoshop with the "culture lens/sensor factors" for your camera.

  Photoshop (and many other software image) have a number of current relationships preset image for purposes of culture aspectg. Choice 2:3 in Photoshop will make the area of the whole image that is produced by your camera. Then, you can resize a number of common paper sizes... 4 x 6 inches, 6 x 9, 8 x 12 inch and 12 x 18 (or 13 x 19) inch... that all share the same images of proportions.

  If you choose rather the proportions 4:5 in the truncation of software tool, some of the longest axis of the image will be deleted off the coast, but you can then resize the image to fit other common paper sizes such as 4 "x 5", 8 x 10 inch, 16 x 20 inches.

  There are also a few formats of common paper who don't exactly conform to one pre-defined aspect ratios, for example 5 x 7 inch and 11 x 14 inches. These are somewhere between the two.

  Your camera has a ratio of 2:3 (not 2 x 3). This has been fairly uniform among the 35mm film SLRs and was postponed to digital, too (for the large part... There are a few exceptions). The actual size of your camera sensor is approximately 15x22mm. The so-called "full frame" cameras also have a 2:3 format... is about the actual size of their 24x36mm sensor.

  In other words, the same proportion (IE ' side short vs long side ") is possible in different sizes (both in the sensor format or the movie... and printing of paper sizes). Don't worry too much on this subject the reference to large format... Which seemed to have been mentioned just to demonstrate that there are all kinds of "lens factors" that you can get caught up in the calculation, but this does not really much.

  Focal length does not change. 50mm is 50mm no matter what.

  But a 50mm lens on a format behaves differently than it does on another format. On your camera with sensor 15x22mm is a 50mm focal length lens acts as a nice "short telephoto.  Put the same focal exact on a digital point-n-shoot which has a very small sensor and it can behave as a very powerful, long telephoto.  If not, put this same 50mm on a digital camera to 'full frame' and it will act as a 'standard' lens (that is, not wide or Telephoto). Or, put this same 50mm on a camera film of medium format, which has an image 60x70mm area and this will be a lens wide angle. Finally, put it on a film camera of large format as a 4 x 5 (... equal to approximately 100x125mm inches) and the same focal length of 50 mm behaves like an extreme wide-angle.

  You say you have a kit lens... I guess it's a zoom. Probably an EF-S 18-55mm lens and an EF-S 18-135mm lens. You also have a 50mm 'first' (not a zoom) EF lens. If you set the zoom EF-S 50mm it will give exactly the same angle of view as the lens EF 50 mm Prime. The only difference is that the EF-S lens is specifically designed for smaller sensor cameras, while the EF lens is designed to give an image circle large enough to cover the area from a towards full frame camera.

  Yes, it is true, because they do not need to produce as big a circle frame EF-S or "cultures only" lenses designed for use on small photo sensor can be smaller in size, lighter and less expensive than the lenses made to cover the full frame sensor image area.

  If your kit lens is a 18-55mm, on your camera that provides a variable angle of view ranging from the wide-angle moderate standard to short telephoto. If it's a 18-135mm kit lens, which gives a little wider TV, a moderate telephoto.

  I hope that makes sense!

• I can trigger a flash remotely from the EOS Utility?

  Hello. I am a total newbie, so forgive me if my question is very basic or confused.

  I just bought a Rebel T5i (literally, my first ever buy SLR) and have been using the EOS utility to be able to "live view" on my desktop screen. It seems to work pretty well.

  However, I am interested with the addition of a flash remotely as a Speedlite flash, to be placed between the subject and background. Will be a remote flash correctly from live view EOS Utility work? Should it be a Speedlite flash, or can it be a third flash?

  I'm not too considered with flash quality as much as I just want to be able to take pictures with the EOS Utility live view, with the remote flash fires to light a backdrop behind the subject.

  Thank you!

  As Ernie points out... the computer simply tells the camera when taking the shot.  If the camera has a flash, then the camera fires the flash when he takes this one.

  But your question is loaded with some nuances and it is not just a direct response.

  A Canon T5i has the ability to fire distance a Canon speedlite if three conditions are met:

  (1) the flash must support E - TTL

  (2) the flash must support E - TTL mode 'slave' (and that the mode must be enabled - it will not be enabled by default.)

  (3) flash must be direct "corridor" between the camera and remotely.

  The camera itself needs to be said that it is in a mode where the flash pop up on the device will work as a 'master' to trigger a remote flash.

  But you mentioned that you wanted to put this flash to distance between a subject and the context - which implies that 'line of sight' is not possible.  Who calls other WIRING.

  You can learn a lot about flash systems Canon E - TTL of the "Manual of the Speedlighter" (by Syl Arena), but this book has not been updated (as far as I know) to include systems flash triggered by Canon's new radio.

  To do this with the Canon gear, you want a transmitter of radio ST-E3-RT (which amounts to the hoof as a flash camera) and then use a flash Canon Speedlight with a suffix 'RT' such as flash 600EX-RT (flash light) or the new 430EX III - RT.  All products of "RT" communicate by radio and do not require a line of sight direct.

  It is also possible to do with budget gear..., you can get a pair of transceivers trigger... we're going on the device and the other goes hand in hand with the remote flash.  These radio triggers are not "E - TTL", which means that the camera and the flash will not be able to communicate and negotiate the amount of energy must be used for shooting "on the fly" (as can an E - TTL flash).  This means that you will need to manually set the power level you want to use.

  Having to use manual flash should not be terribly difficult to learn.  The flash and the camera usually automatically set your power level, as it would for E - TTL flashes.  You control the light, by adjusting the power level of the flash (manually) or by moving the flash closer or away from your topic (or using the flash light modifiers) more, or by adjusting the opening of the camera.

  This works well in a situation of type 'studio', where you can control the power settings.  But for photography of the 'event' where you have to shoot on-the-fly and you "-over" If rush you the shot, you have to learn the flash behavior before the shooting. For me, it means creating a table which indicates (for any given on the flash power level) f-stop, should I use any flash-to-subject distance given.  I used usually non-zooms at this time, but I knew that, for example, a shot of 'dance' a couple of size - up to (what we call a "half coup" because we have only half upper body of our subject) was f/16 at ISO 100.  A length of 3/4 shot (essentially from the knees upwards) was f/11.  A shot of 'length' was f/8, and a group shot can be f/5.6 or even f/4.

  It necessary to the good days past tests and completing such a table.  You won't have the time to refer to such a table, but I mentally memorized by distance because the subject framing was a good consistent indicator of distance.  (it is a bit more complicated with zooms because you can change the subject framing without changing the distance).   But in the end, you find yourself in a situation where you go back to a subject at a demonstration, the frame of the shooting, set the aperture value and capture the image and know that you nailed the exposure even if the whole system is manual.

  There are a lot of tutorials on the use of the manual of flash and inexpensive triggers to the Strobist blog (strobist.blogspot.com).

  I use the Canon system.  I use the Canon ST-E3-RT trigger a few flashes 600EX-RT.  The system is rock solid... it always works.

• PIP UL of 25% at full frame - setting speed

  Hello, how to set the speed of PIP 25% UL to full frame? When I drag and drop the effect on my clip nothing appears in 'Effects applied' and I need the transition to full frame much faster than the default. I use Adobe Premiere elements 12.

  Thanks for the help.

  Steve

  Steve

  Please take a look at the following general principles. It may or may not be a bit overwhelming, but we can work through the principles and details.

  First Elements ATR troubleshooting: PE: PiP presets effect animated pictures

  The key to this is to view the images defined by the PIP Position keys and then move the keyframe 2nd close or more distant from the original.

  I'll be back in 2 hours or sooner with the screenshot specific to this PiPs a 25% UL. This PiPs 25% UL are you using - plenty of choice.

  To follow...

  RTA

• How to fix the slide show images that do not frame Muse

  I am building Muse site with several slideshows, Lightbox-style. A poster correctly, but in another, several images do not meet the framework. The two shows have identical settings: Full proportional Frame. In the exhibition of student work, proportioned panoramic images are reduced, and the upper part of the frame of image below is where I placed it in the design. Here's the URL:Gallery of work student in the subject hotel gallery, images are displayed correctly. Here's the URL: The hotel How can I fix the slideshow for images fill the frame? Thank you.

  Please try to check if any spacing or padding is added to the thumbnails, the student url does not work on my end.

  Thank you

  Sanjit

• The latest version of iMovie supports 30 frames per second?

  I tried creating a simple slide show, but could not find a way to make 30 frames per second, with 60 being the default and automatic.

  Although it was several months ago but I remember not being able to find a way to select the 30 images (if this option was available at all).

  So my question is: how to make a slide show and make it to 30? I choose my desired pace at the beginning or at the end? Can I do it at all?

  And Yes, I use the latest version of iMovie .

  Yes, the latest version of iMovie supports 30 frames per second.   You set the frame rate by adding a 30 fps known as the first video clip vid that you place in the timeline of your movie project.  After you have added your other pictures/clips, you can remove the first clip if you wish.  The project will have already been set at 30 frames per second.

• My apple tv has been full screen but suddenly black bars apears on the side, how can I get full screen again?

  My apple tv has been full screen but suddenly black bars apears on the side, how can I get full screen again?

  Post a picture of your screen and the model number and brand of your TV.  Sounds like a TV problem.

• How to set the properties of the EOS in the IVI driver

  I am coding a compatible driver IVI (in LabWindows/CVI) for an old GPIB instrument that does not support the EOI. To read the response device, I need to define the character of the EOS and terminate read on EOS. MAX I can correctly set the properties of communication and communicate with the device, but I do not know how to set these values in my driver. I tried if various attributes (for example with viSetAttribute (io, VI_ATTR_TERMCHAR_EN, VI_TRUE)), but still get errors (I guess I should use the incorrect session handles). How to set these properties inside the device IVI driver properly? These parameters must be active for this specific device only - all other devices on the bus use EDI. So I think that I can not just in the world, set this property on the map.

  Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance,

  Martin

  To change VISA attributes as parameters EOS via the pilot of the IVI, your application must first acquire the handle valid VISA (VISA session) or the IVisaSession interface. The first is applied when the uses of pilot IVI VISA - C API and the latest is applied to when the IVI driver uses VISA COM API. Session handle of the IVI - C (that was returned by the function _init() ) is * NO * a VISA manage so you cannot call the API C VISA with the session handle.

  I don't know if the IVI driver you are using has such a property or attribute allowing to access the handle VISA or IVisaSession interface, but for example, driver Agilent IVI COM "IO" property, which returns the reference to IVisaSession or any good VISA com interface.

  Makoto

• online game servers we could take took the serverys and my mailbox was full of junk that I got blocked how do my account unlocked and keep unwanted entry in?

  online game servers we could take took the serverys and my mailbox was full of junk that I got blocked how do my account unlocked and keep unwanted entry in?

  You need to ask your email provider. If you have Hotmail:

  For the taking in charge of Hotmail:

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  Account has been temporarily blocked:

  http://windowslivehelp.com/solution.aspx?SolutionID=f172cbee-3c73-4506-8a1d-4e6e82adb846

• The ML - 3 ring flash and the speedlite 300tl is usable on the EOS 7 d?

  I have good light for canon ml-3 and a speedlite 300tl that I use on my canon t90. I'll buy a Canon EOS 7 d DSLR. Can I use the ML-3 and the 300TL on the EOS 7 d?

  I want to thank each of you for the quick response. It's very appreciated.

• failures after you download the update of the EOS 5 computers xp...

  pretty much says it sll.

  I have 2 desktop computer and top of map 2 and 4 neighbors 4, that after loading the UPDATE of EOS seems to hang in very slow motion
  and no longe do work at an acceptable level on the step 2 days that I tried to help everyone, nothing is done as if I get the Task Manager started immediately I can see process shows 99% idle, yet seems to be suspended.  I discovered this by starting a laptop, I have not used for some time, he started very well and lasted a few hours ok, until I have ok download and installation of the upgrade of the EOS.  It is now in the same compartment as the others...

  I don't appreciate a poison pill and wonder how legal this is...
  I have a 95 computer running well... no support, but it seems is to not care not and keeps on ticking.
  (it follows a door access log)

  Thank you Microsoft... 8 -)
  Needless to say that I am very unhappy...

  pretty much says it sll.

  I have 2 desktop computer and top of map 2 and 4 neighbors 4, that after loading the UPDATE of EOS seems to hang in very slow motion
  and no longe do work at an acceptable level on the step 2 days that I tried to help everyone, nothing is done as if I get the Task Manager started immediately I can see process shows 99% idle, yet seems to be suspended.  I discovered this by starting a laptop, I have not used for some time, he started very well and lasted a few hours ok, until I have ok download and installation of the upgrade of the EOS.  It is now in the same compartment as the others...

  I don't appreciate a poison pill and wonder how legal this is...
  I have a 95 computer running well... no support, but it seems is to not care not and keeps on ticking.
  (it follows a door access log)

  Thank you Microsoft... 8 -)
  Needless to say that I am very unhappy...

  You update Microsoft Security Essentials. If you have done it is probably where the problem is. Click on the link and read the article.

  http://News.Softpedia.com/news/Microsoft-Security-Essentials-update-makes-Windows-XP-unusable-438170.shtml

• is the canon 28-135 ultrasonic objective compatible with the EOS 6 d

  is the canon 28-135 ultrasonic objective compatible with the EOS 6 d

  Yes, it's... and it's a pretty decent lens.