7 d & 580EX

Similar Questions

• 580EX II eTTL full power using E - TTL FLASH off-camera cord

  With the help of a 5 d Mk III with 580EX II.  On the claw, eTTL works very well. Can access the menu camera very well.  When I join eTTL off-camera flash cord to get the Speedlites off camera, only full of works of power and compensation does not at all.  Full power only and can not access the settings in the menu of the device.  When I do the same thing to the 430EX II everything works very well on and off-camera with the same nine cord and menu is accessible and settings can be changed.

  No idea what it could be?

  JeepDaddy wrote:
  This isn't a power cord Canon, it's Chinese. I think it's a combination of cord of low quality and reliable contacts on Speedlite flashes old guns. After I posted this question and had a cup of coffee, I tried again and magically it started working. I swapped the Speedlites and the 430 would not work, but then he slips and turns off several times it worked.

  I don't use my Speedlite flashes very often, but whenever I've done, it seems that I have trouble connecting with all that I use on the inclusion of the claw. I ETTL triggers that I always seem to have the same problem with.

  Maybe can anyone suggest a way to make more reliable contacts?

  The evidence is to try a Canon cord. Although bad contacts on flashes Speedlite is a possibility, the fact that these two of them only sporadically suggests that the cord is at fault. And since you rarely use the Speedlite flashes, you have probably not given time to contacts wear.

• Speedlite 580EX

  I dropped my 580ex. display continues to Flash recycle time is variable output more long and light.

  Hi jmaniscalco!

  Welcome to the Canon Forum.

  When the LCD screen just flashes, the wide Panel has been removed.  Please make sure that you pull out completely, then it retract completely into the flash head.  The LCD display should stop flashing and your questions about unusual exposures must stop.

• 430EX vs 580ex

  I'm in the market to buy either the new 430Ex or the 580ex used... What is the best one if I can get a 580ex for $300 (Excellent condition)... I'll use it on a for small weddings and quinceañera T3i... Thank you!

  The 580EX II is better than the 430 EX II flash.

  -guide high number

  -can act as a master flash

  -a multi mode (strobe)

  - and something that is not in the specifications, the 580EX head can turn on 360o, where the 480EX can turn only 270o

  If the 580EX is the mark II (580EX II) and is in excellent condition, includes the case, the claw and the documentation, I'd go for the 580 on the 430.  The advantage of the extra power would probably be sufficient reason.

• 580EX II on a 6 d - problems with exposure

  I have a new 6 d, and I'm trying to do some portraits of 'test' with my 580EX II. I use the ETTL mode. and the aperture priority. I was able to adjust the exposure compensation while using my previous camera (1-3), but I can't seem to be able to alleviate the intensity of the flash either on the camera, r off-camera with my triggers Yongnuo 622 C.

  Any suggestions? establishing a single sample.

  You can never "soften" the intensity of the flash, you can only adjust the exposure to flash using "Flash Exposure Compensation. (FEC)

  The 1 d Mk III had a scale of exposure on the side right of the viewfinder, but put in FEC is also very easy on the 6 d.

  FEC is adjustable on the camera and the flash. The FEC flash will work around the FEC camera then make sure that both are '0 FEC' and then adjust according to your needs.

  Since you're using YN - 622C triggers, I would always stick with all menu flash of the 6 d in CEE.

  On the photo that you published the EXIF 'XMP' show-1 FEC.  I'm not familiar with the XMP data. Does this mean that this was done in post-processing?

  

  

  

  

• Speedlite 580EX II E - TTL mode problem

  Hello

  My speedlite has recently started to produce photos that are underexposed in E - TTL mode. Compared to the previous pictures, the difference is of about 2/3 - 1 full stop.

  I have done a number of tests using my EOS 40 d and an EF 24-105 f4/L IS USM lens.

  I used the fully charged batteries in the camera and speedlite (two alkaline batteries or NiMH in flash). I checked the exposure compensation and flash exposure compensation settings as well as all other parameters of the menu camera and custom in the speedlite and camera functions. Everything is in order and there is no conflict between the camera and the speedlite.

  I shoot in RAW and as a test, I took a number of pictures in the manual, Tv and Av modes, both without flash and using the flash on the camera. All were well exposed (with no exposure or flash exposure compensation).

  I tried recycling the speedlite to full power several times - time 5 seconds. Thus, it seems that the batteries were working well.

  I then carried out a number of tests in the manual, Av and Tv modes at various shutter opening and ISO settings to compare flash shipped with the speedlite E - TTL mode performance. Each of the photos taken with the built-in flash has been well exposed with a good histogram. Each comparison with the speedlite photo is underexposed, with a bad histogram and reduced file size. With some tests, it was necessary to set the exposure compensation to + 2/3 to + 1 stop flash to achieve results globally comparable to the onboard flash.

  However, this workaround solution produce satisfactory results for the subject distances over 20 feet, even at high ISO and long shutter speeds. The output of the speeedlite was much too low. These tests were done inside.

  Then, I made tests with the speedlite in manual mode with all of the production in full. A range of shutter speeds, apertures and ISO settings photos were completely blown out. The same result was obtained with the speedlite in sync and manual high speed selected if the shutter speed is equal to or less than 1/250 second (max height available for the on-board flash shutter speed).

  As a solution, I put the manual speedlite with sync high speed and set faster than 1/250 second shutter speeds and

  tried the exhibitions at different distances from the object. In General, the sync high-speed kicks. I have not yet checked performance to subject more than 30 feet, but a comprehensive exhibition was obtained in all tests to date, (mostly better with flash exposure compensation of-1/3). However, according to the ambient light auto focus was sometimes impossible.

  These tests, it seems that the device works well, the speedlite is capable of generating a full release and in manual/high-sync mode, it will produce a correct exposure with high shutter settings.

  While the two workaround solutions - E - TTL mode with timing of compensation and flash exposure manual/high speed - work, some experiments are required and both have their drawbacks. There are moments where I would like to make with the speedlite in manual, but for the most part, I was pleased with the results in E - TTL mode and I want to be able to restore my speedlite complete state.

  I wonder if anyone can shed light on fault (sensor/transistor?) and repair.

  I'm sorry to have provided a lot of details, but I wanted to avoid unnecessary questions or solutions that I've tried. Any assistance from members who are aware of this problem would be greatly appreciated.

  It is not a fault. It seems that if the flash does not work correctly.

  You realize, not you, the ETTL flash works differently in mode to manual exposure, it does in the automatic exposure modes?

  When you have the ETTL flash game and the camera to Tv or Av or P, the camera will expose by ambient light as if the flash is not there, and the flash is treated as a FILL light. The flash output is reduced by something like 1.5 or 1.7 stops full power, unless you overrided with + or - Flash Exposure Compensation.

  When you have the flash in ETTL and Manual, the flash is FULL and processed by the camera, as if it were the only light source. The ambient light is ignored (but according to the selected parameters can still be a factor in your images). Once more, you can substitute with FEC, if you wish.

  If I read your description, you see the difference between manual/FULL flash and AE/TTL. As long as you keep in mind these, you can configure the camera and flash in ETTL mode easily to many different situations.

  You will notice that the flash often recycle much faster when it acts as a FILLER, because it is drawn to the decline in production. I often use the fill outdoors during the day and can get two or three 'pop' quick lightning before it slows down for recycling.

  If you want the 580EX II to recycle faster, use of quality instead of alkaline batteries rechargeable batteries. For faster recycling, a CP - E4 battery pack is a nice addition. He added 8 AA plus size batteries that flash can appeal.

  I never use the built-in flashes, so I don't really know how they compare.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Canon T1i and Speedlite 580EX off camera use for

  I have a T1i and 580EX (not 580EX II) flash. I would like to use the flash on the camera. Would need other devices (trigger, transmitter)? If not, then could you give me the guide the way in which it is defined. Thanks in advance.

  The 580EX can works as a Canon E - TTL wireless (optical line-of-sight) master or slave flash.  You can use a commander of on-camera flash or get another able to work as a master or slave flash.  A few hot flashes like the 430EX II cannot function as a 'slave' (non-master).  The 580's can be.

  The bult - in flash on a T1i will not trigger a slave Canon E - TTL remote.  I think the T3i was the first of the rebel line to achieve this functionality.

  You can use triggers to 3rd party... optical or radio.  Some of them are extremely cheap, but do not have E - TTL.  The end part 3 higher units that manage the E - TTL are quite expensive (Skirball mentioned the brand of POCKETWIZARD (English) which has a very good reputation... but is not cheap.  )

  POCKETWIZARD (English) has a problem of reliability with Canon 580EX II units (do not know if it would have the same problem with a 580EX II).  The real problem is that when you do E - TTL, there's a pre-Flash and certain communications made before the actual shooting takes place (it's very fast-), but when the preflash fires, the 580EX II was generating enough RF interference that the PocketWizards could not communicate reliably and the flash would not be triggered as expected.  There were a few attempts to create RFI shielding and I even heard of services that change the guts of the flash to reduce the interference (which would, of course, canceled warranty.)

• Speedlite 589ex ii

  With the 580 is it possible to emit a low power pulse of light that will trigger another Speedlite but not illuminate the subject itself? Thank you!!

  If the 580EX II is used as a 'master' on the device and communicates to a slave E - TTL flash, then Yes... it is possible.

  In the flash on your camera control menu, just tell him to 'disable' the flash.  This sounds like an oxymoron to have a flash, turn it on and then 'disable' it... But what it really means is that you want the flash to the single function Commander speedlite but not fire when the camera shutter is open.

  You will still see the speedlite flash, but if you carefully consider your images you will notice that only light of the speedlite (s) off-camera (or ambient sources) are visible in the shot - and you will not see evidence of light the speedlite on the device.

  The most confusing this framework (when I learned to do it), is that YOU WILL see your light flash on the device even in a disabled"" State.  But this event fires only for communicating with other Speedlite flashes and it won't contribute light on this subject.

• The Canon 70 d remote flash trigger

  Which Canon speed light will work off camera and be triggered by the functionality of firing the flash in camera remotely?

  The native (built-in) flash trigger IS.  This is an optical trigger and requires line of sight to the off-camera flash.

  The 430EX II can be a 'slave' (flash remotely triggered), but may not be a master.  The 580EX II can be a master or slave.  600EX-RT can also be a master or slave (and can no optical or by radio but radio requires a radio trigger - sells Canon a dedicated radio ST-E3-RT trigger or an another 600EX-RT flash can be used as a master/trigger.)

  The built-in flash uses pulses of light (visible light) to communicate with slaves and relay instructions.  It is not infrared or radio.  But the receiver in the slave flashes is on the lower part of the body (not in the flash head upwards).  The front of the lower part of the body has a tint red Panel that resemlbes what you would see on an infrared remote - leading people to assume that it is IR it isn't visible - IR

  If the remote light does not pull when the flash on the camera goes off then lower unit may not have good lighting of the view.  Keep in mind the 430EX II 580EX II and 600EX-RT that all have a flash head that can tilt AND turn left and right.  This means that you can rotate the lower part of the body of the flash so that it points to your camera, but always turn the head so that it points toward your subject.

• 580 EX does not take up with the 5 d Mk III?

  Hello! Newbie and displays the first time. I'm not an experienced user of flash, so didn't know what to expect when you shoot in burst mode, at a party over the weekend. I had the 580 in ETTL and tilted up to bounce off the ceiling. I had the 5 d in normal burst (not high-speed). When shooting, I came across a situation where the flash would work for the first exhibition, but the following shows were dark. Try at home last night, I ran 5 shows burst; the flash fires for the first two, but not the last three. When you set the flash locked horizontally (not to bounce), he worked for all 5 shows. What would cause this behavior? Low battery? The camera can be set to "wait" for the flash?

  Thank you!

  Wayne

  This is quite normal and subject flash has the same problem.

  They recharge up to internal capacitors to the Flash.  It is these capacitors that provide the burst of power to provide the flash.  Once the flash is triggered, the batteries need to replenish the power in the capacitors to be ready for the next flash.  Batteries more (and the freshest and most fully charged the battery) recycles faster in flash.

  But there is more.

  If you're shooting in E - TTL flash gauges what power he needs to deliver adequately to light up the scene.  If you're shooting in manual, you can define the fraction of power that delivers the flash (for example you want a full power flash (1/1) or do you want a fraction (1/32nd ordered?).)  If the flash has to deliver is "full" amount of energy, so it'll take more time to recycle.  If it provides only a fraction of its energy, it will be ready to go INSTANTLY (no delay) as it still has enough power in the capacitors to pull another fractional burst of power.  In fact... When shooting mode "sync high speed", that is precisely how flash works... it flashes VERY quickly, but using only a tiny part of its full potential for each burst.

  If you need "full" power and you need it FAST there is a solution for that too.  You have to cluster flashes to work like a gang.  for example if I have cluster 4 flashes together, then every Flash would be enough to trigger at 1/4 power and yet as a gang they are always provided the light of the ' total '.  This means after 1 burst, each light has still 3/4S of its left power and he could shoot four times in very quick succession.  Only after the 4th flash you have to stop for Flash recycle.  I think you can cluster up to 15 lightning - you should never a lot.

  For your application, make sure that your batteries are fresh.  (Tip: Sanyo Eneloop rechargeables are great in these hot flashes and save you the purchase of single use batteries.)  If it is not fast enough for you even with new batteries, then buy the accessory pack external battery for the 580EX II (which can effectively triple the amount of energy supplied to the light.).

• I just bought a canon 6 d and I can not get my remote EXILE 430 flash. Anyone know why?

  I just bought a canon 6 d and I can not get my remote EXILE 430 flash. Anyone know why? Apparently my camera 'new' picture does not "see" the flash, must now the transmitter? Is there a Flash that work wirelessly with my canon 6 d?

  All remote flashes need a way to communicate with the camera.  They can be wired or wireless.  The wireless system can be optical or radio.

  The key is that there is nothing built in the 6 d to control a flash... If you need something to do this work.

  The 430EX II can be triggered via optical signal as a remote "slave" flash (430EX II cannot function as a mode of 'master' (aka 'Commander').)

  The method of Cannon to control the 430EX II is to use either:

  (a) a "Speedlite ST - E2 transmitter.

  (b) speedlite another able to work in "master" mode (and there's a long list... the 600EX / 600EX-RT, the 580EX II, and curiously the 90EX is actually able to perform a 'master').

  I recommend either the 600EX-RT (which would be the basis for additional units 600EX-RT in the future that would give you radio trigger) or find a 580EX II.  I probably spend on the 90EX and promote a ST - E2 if desired subject is a way to trigger the remote flash and don't actually want a flash.  The 90EX is not very powerful, so it is not particularly suitable as a stand-alone flash, unless you use it simply as a "fill" flash for close subjects.)

  There are also many 3rd party triggers, but the vast majority of them won't let you not use E - TTL (they would be "manual" only) and the units which support E - TTL will be too expensive to buy just a high flash range running as Commander.

• Camera flashes

  Hi guru...

  need a suggestion... Is the power of maH battery has something to do with flash response time? battery with which MA is suggested?  Which is also the best battery suggested for use on a full-time basis for a function of 2 h?

  Milli-ampere hour is the amount of energy that the dough is capable of storing.  Think of this as the tank of gas on a car.  A car can have only a 10 gallon tank.  Another car might have a 15 gallon tank.  15 gallon means the car can store more 'energy' (as a gas) - but this does not necessarily mean that the gas flow out faster.

  It is similarly of the batteries.

  My favorite for my Speedlites batteries are Sanyo 'Eneloop' rechargeable batteries.  These are 1900 mAh batteries, but the thing TOUCHES thereon, is that they are "low self-discharge" batteries.  All batteries will be auto-dischrage if they sit unused (just sitting on a shelf... they don't even have to be connected to anything).  Some rechargeable batteries will lose 20% of their power in the first 24 hours after his indictment.  Eneloops have a _very_ slow rate of self-discharge... so slow, in fact, that when you buy the news in a store, you'll discover that they actually charge (they do not require an initial charge like most rechargeable batteries) and they will be more complete.  This means I can treat them as non-rechargeable batteries... If I leave a sit unused flash for a few weeks, that I don't have to worry that I need fee-to top the batteries before you can use it... It'll still be ready to go.

  To make a quick flash recycling requires more comprehensive amperage (AMPS are essentially a measure of the rate of flow of energy... Ah is a measure of storage regardless of flow).  Canon makes an external battery for their Speedlite 580EX II flashes and 600EX-RT (not included... it's an accessory) called the "Compact Battery Pack CP - E4.   It contains 8 AA batteries (that the wedges internally only flash 4).  You can place the system in a mode where it combines both internal and external and external batteries or a hence only external batteries).  But given all these batteries significantly improves the speed of flash recycle (as well as the number of flashes you can get.)

  If you REALLY need quick recycle time, you can cluster Speedlites.  Watch this video if you want to see how it works: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaALe0w992E

  Note that it uses sync mode high speed with these flashes because it must freeze the action with fast shutter speeds.  Sync high speed, the flash must quickly than scans of gap filling of pulse on the sensor.  The number of pulses required depends on how much faster the shutter speed is set above max flash sync speed.  If, for example, the trigger is set to 1/1000th (5 bodies max flash sync speed x more) then the flash pulse has at least 5 times to get the exposure... which means no single burst of light can spend more than 1/5th of the total capacity of Speedlites.  By the lights of clustering, each single light has to release a tiny amount of capacity stored by impulse, which means that the cluster of them easily has enough power to handle the quick actions via sync high speed shooting in direct sunlight.

  The point is... you can do these things fire as fast as you need it to fire - I don't expect many of us will run out and buy six Speedlites plus a commander, but it is good to know HOW to get the system to do IF you need, the system can deliver the performance (but I think I would probably rent the additional Speedlite for filming).

• Flashlights

  Hello, please advice me for a flashlight to my camera Canon sx50 hs power?

  Hot shoe of the camera is compatible with all Canon Speedlite flash units currently marketed as well as a number of hot flashes is no longer marketed (e.g. they do not actively sell the Speedlite 580EX II... but it works with it).

  The model number of the flash tells you "Guide number" as the flash in meters.  For example the 270EX II has a "guide number" of 27 meters.  The 430EX II is a "guide number" 43-metre (omit just the last "0" in the model number and that is the "guide number").

  A "guide number" is a scenario of the industry standard benchmark to measure the distance a proper illuiminate can flash a topic.  But as the amount of light collected by the camera depends on your exposure settings, the reference level of ISO 100 and f/1.0 (opening size) is supposed to.  What do you _really_ is divide the distance "guide number" by the (opening) diaphragm of the lens and it is the real distance that flash can handle.

  For example: the Speedlite 430EX II is a 'guide numbrer' 43 meters or approximately 141 feet.  But this is at f/1.  Your camera can't shoot at f/1 (no one does a f/1 lens).

  When your device is fully zoom-in (maximum magnification) lens has a report f / d of f/6.5.  So, you would divide by 6.5 141 feet.  This gives you a distance of just over 21 feet (21.7).  If your camera is fully zoomed-out (wide angle) the report f / d is improving and the f-stop can go as low as f/3.4.  So, you would divide 141 feet by 3.4 and gives you a distance of about 41.5 feet (the distance is better because the diaphragm opening is larger, which means that it can collect more light).

  All this has been for the Speedlite 430EX II.  It is a 320EX and a 270EX II who are both much smaller and more compact... but also less powerful.

  One last thing... when a flash is pointed DIRECTLY at your subject, you get a difficult "flat" lighting.  The object don't throw no shadows, because the flash is close to the lens (so the shadows are all hiding behind your subject where the camera can't really see them.)  Good lighting includes good shadows and also the shadows which have a flexible transition from the edge clear dark rather than a well-defined shadow.  While the detached flash is fantastic, an easy solution for flash on the camera is to "bounce" the flash on the ceiling.  This works if (a) you are on the inside, (b) ceiling is not too high (otherwise, the distance to bounce back is too far and you return very little light) and (c) the ceiling is a pretty neutral white (if the ceiling is painted a different color than the ceiling color is tinged light.)

  The reason why I have noticed this is because when you "bounce" the flash, you get a look more attractive, but the light must go much further than if you point the flash directly on the subject and also not a 100% of the light is reflected... you lose a lot of light.  For this reason, it is RECOMMENDED a flash that is more powerful than you can imagine.

  A 270EX II will work well for bounce IF your topic is not very far away (for example subjects inside in about 10').  If you're at an event... it's a big room, your subject is further... the 270EX II will be strong enough.

  The OTHER time it's GREAT to use a flash is outdoors in full sun.  This may seem strange... but the Sun is SO bright that the shadows it casts are VERY dark.  Shooting a person, for example, gives you an exhibition where the positive side of their face is very bright, and yet, the shadows are very dark.  It's much nicer when the highlight of their young side is only slightly brighter side shadow.  To resolve this problem, using the flash outdoors in full sun as a 'fill' flash.  I prefer lower the power of the flash just a bit... to '-1' setting (you can adjust it in increments of 1/3 of).  It really improves the look of outdoor photos.

  The menu on your SX50 will have an external speedlite section that allows you to adjust the power levels of the speedlite.

  I own a 270EX II, a 430EX, a 580EX II and two 600EX-RT Speedlites.  I use the 270EX II with my body of Powershot G series, but only as a 'fill' outdoor flash or a Flash inner bouncing to illuminate subjects in about 10' away.  For more general use where subjects could be much further, I use the 430 models and more... especially when you use the flash with light-modifiers to soften the appearance of the light.

• Light Flash

  Greetings,

  I'm looking for the smallest, lightest flash which can be remotely controlled by my 7 d.

  Any suggestins will be gratly appreciated.

  Thank you!

  I think that probably on the 430EX II what will qualify for what you want.

  Don't forget that Canon model numbers are based on the "guide number" of the flash.  For example a 270EX has a "guide number" of 27 meters.  A 430EX II has a "guide number" of 43 meters, etc.

  The guide number indicates the distance at which the flash can illuminate a subject correctly if the device is set to ISO 100 and using a lens with an aperture of f/1.0.

  No one has a lens with an opening of f/1.0 (used to make a years Canon), but the base line is used because it facilitates calculations.  You divide the number guide by the f-stop you actually intend to use during the shooting... and that is your distance.

  Thus, for example, a 430EX II (number guide of 43 meters or feet 141) at f/1 but if your lens is to, say, f/5.6 is only about 25 feet.

  The 90EX can be used as a 'master' to control the slave flashes, but not as a slave flash.  Already, the 7 d has a built-in master so that you wouldn't need yet another master Flash.  Also, the 90EX has a guide number of 9 metres, or about 29 feet to f/1.0.  But at f/5.6, it is ONLY 5.2 FEET!  To increase this distance, you increase the ISO camera.  At ISO 400, it's good for about 10 feet.

  The 270EX II (but not the original 270EX) takes in "slave" mode, but does NOT support the mode "master".  It has a number guide of 27 metres or feet 88 to 100 ISO and f/1.  To, say, f/5.6 is approximately 16'.  Keep in mind that if you add light modifiers to soften the look of your flash, most of broadcasters tend to eat about 1 stop of a light value (50%).

  A 430EX II takes wireless slave mode and will work with a 7 d for detached also flash longer the 430EX II can 'see' flash the 7 d.  It uses an optical system to communicate (the flash on the pulses 7 d quickly to send instructions).  The 430EX II supports the 'slave' mode, but does not support the mode "master".  The 580EX II supported the master and slave modes, and the new 600EX-RT takes care of everything and can communicate by radio (line-of-sight is not necessary.)

  I would not recommend a lower than the 430EX II flash because you have arrived at a point where the flashes are not very powerful and you must rely on glass low ratio focal or starting the ISO on the camera to compensate for - especially if you start to change the light to soften it. by bouncing the flash or using any kind of softening light modifier.

• Fixing flash Speedlite 430EX II

  Hi guys,.

  Are there professionals here who know if linking the 430EX II when she and the camera (T5i) are both ON the damage anything? I know that the user manual says that the Speedlite should be OFF before attaching it to the claw. I don't have to follow this direction several times until I read the manual... I just want to know that.

  Thank you.

  It's probably a good precaution, but I doubt that you will cause damage if you leave the power on.

  I used the flashes and Canon cameras for more than 30 years.  I never turn off the camera or flash when I tie them up or take them off and no problems of any kind.

  I just went through some of my older books and discovered that, while new units like the 600EX, 430EX II flash. 270EX, 270EX II, 320EX and 90EX all say to turn off the power when you set the flash, the elderly like the 580EX II units, 430EX, 420EX, etc., do not have this warning.