430EX vs 580ex

Similar Questions

• The Canon 70 d remote flash trigger

  Which Canon speed light will work off camera and be triggered by the functionality of firing the flash in camera remotely?

  The native (built-in) flash trigger IS.  This is an optical trigger and requires line of sight to the off-camera flash.

  The 430EX II can be a 'slave' (flash remotely triggered), but may not be a master.  The 580EX II can be a master or slave.  600EX-RT can also be a master or slave (and can no optical or by radio but radio requires a radio trigger - sells Canon a dedicated radio ST-E3-RT trigger or an another 600EX-RT flash can be used as a master/trigger.)

  The built-in flash uses pulses of light (visible light) to communicate with slaves and relay instructions.  It is not infrared or radio.  But the receiver in the slave flashes is on the lower part of the body (not in the flash head upwards).  The front of the lower part of the body has a tint red Panel that resemlbes what you would see on an infrared remote - leading people to assume that it is IR it isn't visible - IR

  If the remote light does not pull when the flash on the camera goes off then lower unit may not have good lighting of the view.  Keep in mind the 430EX II 580EX II and 600EX-RT that all have a flash head that can tilt AND turn left and right.  This means that you can rotate the lower part of the body of the flash so that it points to your camera, but always turn the head so that it points toward your subject.

• Flashlights

  Hello, please advice me for a flashlight to my camera Canon sx50 hs power?

  Hot shoe of the camera is compatible with all Canon Speedlite flash units currently marketed as well as a number of hot flashes is no longer marketed (e.g. they do not actively sell the Speedlite 580EX II... but it works with it).

  The model number of the flash tells you "Guide number" as the flash in meters.  For example the 270EX II has a "guide number" of 27 meters.  The 430EX II is a "guide number" 43-metre (omit just the last "0" in the model number and that is the "guide number").

  A "guide number" is a scenario of the industry standard benchmark to measure the distance a proper illuiminate can flash a topic.  But as the amount of light collected by the camera depends on your exposure settings, the reference level of ISO 100 and f/1.0 (opening size) is supposed to.  What do you _really_ is divide the distance "guide number" by the (opening) diaphragm of the lens and it is the real distance that flash can handle.

  For example: the Speedlite 430EX II is a 'guide numbrer' 43 meters or approximately 141 feet.  But this is at f/1.  Your camera can't shoot at f/1 (no one does a f/1 lens).

  When your device is fully zoom-in (maximum magnification) lens has a report f / d of f/6.5.  So, you would divide by 6.5 141 feet.  This gives you a distance of just over 21 feet (21.7).  If your camera is fully zoomed-out (wide angle) the report f / d is improving and the f-stop can go as low as f/3.4.  So, you would divide 141 feet by 3.4 and gives you a distance of about 41.5 feet (the distance is better because the diaphragm opening is larger, which means that it can collect more light).

  All this has been for the Speedlite 430EX II.  It is a 320EX and a 270EX II who are both much smaller and more compact... but also less powerful.

  One last thing... when a flash is pointed DIRECTLY at your subject, you get a difficult "flat" lighting.  The object don't throw no shadows, because the flash is close to the lens (so the shadows are all hiding behind your subject where the camera can't really see them.)  Good lighting includes good shadows and also the shadows which have a flexible transition from the edge clear dark rather than a well-defined shadow.  While the detached flash is fantastic, an easy solution for flash on the camera is to "bounce" the flash on the ceiling.  This works if (a) you are on the inside, (b) ceiling is not too high (otherwise, the distance to bounce back is too far and you return very little light) and (c) the ceiling is a pretty neutral white (if the ceiling is painted a different color than the ceiling color is tinged light.)

  The reason why I have noticed this is because when you "bounce" the flash, you get a look more attractive, but the light must go much further than if you point the flash directly on the subject and also not a 100% of the light is reflected... you lose a lot of light.  For this reason, it is RECOMMENDED a flash that is more powerful than you can imagine.

  A 270EX II will work well for bounce IF your topic is not very far away (for example subjects inside in about 10').  If you're at an event... it's a big room, your subject is further... the 270EX II will be strong enough.

  The OTHER time it's GREAT to use a flash is outdoors in full sun.  This may seem strange... but the Sun is SO bright that the shadows it casts are VERY dark.  Shooting a person, for example, gives you an exhibition where the positive side of their face is very bright, and yet, the shadows are very dark.  It's much nicer when the highlight of their young side is only slightly brighter side shadow.  To resolve this problem, using the flash outdoors in full sun as a 'fill' flash.  I prefer lower the power of the flash just a bit... to '-1' setting (you can adjust it in increments of 1/3 of).  It really improves the look of outdoor photos.

  The menu on your SX50 will have an external speedlite section that allows you to adjust the power levels of the speedlite.

  I own a 270EX II, a 430EX, a 580EX II and two 600EX-RT Speedlites.  I use the 270EX II with my body of Powershot G series, but only as a 'fill' outdoor flash or a Flash inner bouncing to illuminate subjects in about 10' away.  For more general use where subjects could be much further, I use the 430 models and more... especially when you use the flash with light-modifiers to soften the appearance of the light.

• 580EX II eTTL full power using E - TTL FLASH off-camera cord

  With the help of a 5 d Mk III with 580EX II.  On the claw, eTTL works very well. Can access the menu camera very well.  When I join eTTL off-camera flash cord to get the Speedlites off camera, only full of works of power and compensation does not at all.  Full power only and can not access the settings in the menu of the device.  When I do the same thing to the 430EX II everything works very well on and off-camera with the same nine cord and menu is accessible and settings can be changed.

  No idea what it could be?

  JeepDaddy wrote:
  This isn't a power cord Canon, it's Chinese. I think it's a combination of cord of low quality and reliable contacts on Speedlite flashes old guns. After I posted this question and had a cup of coffee, I tried again and magically it started working. I swapped the Speedlites and the 430 would not work, but then he slips and turns off several times it worked.

  I don't use my Speedlite flashes very often, but whenever I've done, it seems that I have trouble connecting with all that I use on the inclusion of the claw. I ETTL triggers that I always seem to have the same problem with.

  Maybe can anyone suggest a way to make more reliable contacts?

  The evidence is to try a Canon cord. Although bad contacts on flashes Speedlite is a possibility, the fact that these two of them only sporadically suggests that the cord is at fault. And since you rarely use the Speedlite flashes, you have probably not given time to contacts wear.

• Fixing flash Speedlite 430EX II

  Hi guys,.

  Are there professionals here who know if linking the 430EX II when she and the camera (T5i) are both ON the damage anything? I know that the user manual says that the Speedlite should be OFF before attaching it to the claw. I don't have to follow this direction several times until I read the manual... I just want to know that.

  Thank you.

  It's probably a good precaution, but I doubt that you will cause damage if you leave the power on.

  I used the flashes and Canon cameras for more than 30 years.  I never turn off the camera or flash when I tie them up or take them off and no problems of any kind.

  I just went through some of my older books and discovered that, while new units like the 600EX, 430EX II flash. 270EX, 270EX II, 320EX and 90EX all say to turn off the power when you set the flash, the elderly like the 580EX II units, 430EX, 420EX, etc., do not have this warning.

• Unable to trigger the nissin Di622 flash Canon 430ex II

  My gear is Canon T1i camera, flash for Canon 430ex ii, flash Nissin Di622 (1st model) and radio trigger CowboyStudio (I don't remember the model).

  The 430 in ettl mode & on the camera will trigger the camera 622. The pop-up flash will trigger the camera 622. The 430 on camera & manual mode will not trigger the 622 camera and the camera 430 will not trigger the 622 in any mode.

  The radio trigger fires the camera 430. I want to trigger the camera 430 with the radio and have the 430 then trigger the 622. Is there a way to do this?

  I thought that most of the flash units can be triggered by a Flash of light such as the pop up flash. I wouldn't be able to trigger the 430 (in all modes) with the pop-up flash?

  No, some Nikon and other 3rd party flashes can be triggered with a simple flash, but not Canon.   Your 430EX II won't work as a "slave" If you have a 'master' that uses the system of Canon wireless. Slave Flash gun can operate using coded light signals of the "master" flash Cannon

  Some newer Canon cameras have a built-in pop-up flash that can act as a "master" of Canon, but your T1i does not work like that. Canon cameras that will make this are the T3i, T4i, T5i, 7 d, 60 d, or 70 d.

  You can also buy a Canon flash which can be used on your T1i and acts as a "master".  It's the Canon 550EX, 580EX, 580EX II and 600EX-RT. The cheapest Canon ST - E2, which can also act as master but does not have a Flash.

  There are also a few 3rd party flashes as Yongnuo, Nissin and Metz who can also work as 'master' using the gun system.

• Canon T1i and Speedlite 580EX off camera use for

  I have a T1i and 580EX (not 580EX II) flash. I would like to use the flash on the camera. Would need other devices (trigger, transmitter)? If not, then could you give me the guide the way in which it is defined. Thanks in advance.

  The 580EX can works as a Canon E - TTL wireless (optical line-of-sight) master or slave flash.  You can use a commander of on-camera flash or get another able to work as a master or slave flash.  A few hot flashes like the 430EX II cannot function as a 'slave' (non-master).  The 580's can be.

  The bult - in flash on a T1i will not trigger a slave Canon E - TTL remote.  I think the T3i was the first of the rebel line to achieve this functionality.

  You can use triggers to 3rd party... optical or radio.  Some of them are extremely cheap, but do not have E - TTL.  The end part 3 higher units that manage the E - TTL are quite expensive (Skirball mentioned the brand of POCKETWIZARD (English) which has a very good reputation... but is not cheap.  )

  POCKETWIZARD (English) has a problem of reliability with Canon 580EX II units (do not know if it would have the same problem with a 580EX II).  The real problem is that when you do E - TTL, there's a pre-Flash and certain communications made before the actual shooting takes place (it's very fast-), but when the preflash fires, the 580EX II was generating enough RF interference that the PocketWizards could not communicate reliably and the flash would not be triggered as expected.  There were a few attempts to create RFI shielding and I even heard of services that change the guts of the flash to reduce the interference (which would, of course, canceled warranty.)

• How connect wireless Speedlite 430EX III - RT for EOS 7 d Mark II using wireless radio signal?

  I just upgraded from a fighter to a 7 d and am sure he has the ability to use wireless for my Speedlite 430ES III - RT radio signal.  Unfortunately, I've exhausted myself trying to get them to connect.  If anyone has had the same issues, or have a solution to my problem or even have a link to a good video for the Speedlite & 7 D, I have?

  I watched a lot of YouTube videos and seem to have all the settings correct-channel, master/slave, A, B, Group C parameters, the unit is set for the wireless.

  Help please and thank you.

  The 7 d II can control only wireless Speedlite 430EX III - RT optically via its pop-up flash but not via radio signal.  So you can either get an another Speedlite 430EX III - RT or a dedicated controller ST - E3, mounted on the hot shoe of the camera.

• Speedlite 580EX

  I dropped my 580ex. display continues to Flash recycle time is variable output more long and light.

  Hi jmaniscalco!

  Welcome to the Canon Forum.

  When the LCD screen just flashes, the wide Panel has been removed.  Please make sure that you pull out completely, then it retract completely into the flash head.  The LCD display should stop flashing and your questions about unusual exposures must stop.

• Canon Flash 430EX 11 to go with my Canon EOS camera D 70 with a 18-135mm lens.

  I bought a Canon 430EX 11 Flash to go with my Canon EOS camera D 70 with a 18-135mm lens. Flash displays the icon confirming the auto zoom only intermittent and when it isn't, twist the zoom of the camera does not appear on the screen of the flash.  The batteries are charged and the flash is locked on the camera.

  I'm not entirely sure I understand your question.  The 430EX II has can be put in a mode where it automatically follows the camera zoom (within the limits... 24 mm to 105 mm), but you can ALSO put it in a mode where you manually control the zoom flash.  If it's in the manual control mode, so it won't automatically zoom.

  It is important that the 'broad' Panel not in use (if you go out and go back to the bottom of the Panel then flash will go to wide angle and zoom not EVEN if it was in auto mode.)

  Press the Zoom button, then use the - / + keys to change the zoom.

  When under manual control, there is a black "M" icon that appears the word "Zoom".  If the "M" is not present then it is auto zoom mode.

  Finally... When you change the zoom on the camera lens, generally nothing will happen on the flash UNTIL you wake up the system by doing a half - press the shutter button.    When the camera wakes up to the meter and focus... it is when she allows to set the zoom on the flash head.

• Canon 60 d does not recognize the 430ex II flash. Any suggestions?

  Canon 60 d does not recognize the 430ex II flash. On the menu screen, it says that flash is where not compatible.

  Any suggestions? Books or guides recommended?

  Thank you

  A few...

  I hope that you have verified that the flash lights up completely and you get the red light showing that it is ready to fire.

  On your system menu 60 d, if you find the "Flash control" option, you can ensure that you have not set the external speedlite to 'disable' - although I think in this mode, you wouldn't get the message you describe.  that is, I doubt it's, but you can double check.

  A more common reason for the failure is that the flash of the camera can perfectly communicate with flash.  This is usually due to a bad connection in the 'foot' of the lightning.

  The flash must be in place in the rails of the claw.  Make sure that the lock is released, fully slide the flash into the rails of the hoof, stop.  Engage the locking of the foot, so we got him firmly (it will slide to the right and then click sur-pour-snap (you must press the button to release the locking lever).)  This is not * only * snug foot... He also puts a tiny metal pin locking in a small hole in the claw so that flash can't get out.

  At this point, the "foot" of the flash is actually the "ground" connection and he is in contact with the metal rails of the claw AND the five contacts on the foot must be in contact with the camera.

  This means there is nothing wrong with the flash - and there could be something wrong with her.   So if you are convinced you fully secures the flash, then remove the flash and inspect the "foot" on the flash.

  The metal plate on the bottom of the flash must be strong... If you use your fingers and try to move it (do not use a heavy force... we do not break - just firmly grasp and see if he's going to move at all) it should not move.  If it does not move that this means that the foot is loose and is not attached to the body of the flash (there are four very small screws which hold it firmly, but they are accessible from the inside of the flash.

  Next, inspect the 5 metal pins on the bottom of the flash.  Each of these areas is spring loaded so that they will stand against the 5 points of contact in the camera shoe.  I sometimes saw a performance of something (for example, a bit of sand) getting stuck and 'jam' a PIN so that she she brings more contact with the contact on the hoof.  If you view the foot of the flash of an edge - on view, all the pins it is back to the same height.  If one of them is lower than the rest... indented it is blocked.

  The 430EX II has a solid reputation as a flash work horse.  It tends to be among the most reliable flashing on failures is rare.

  It is also possible that the problem is in the camera.  A simple test of this is to try an another speedlite (if you have one, or if you have a friend who has a).  If it's your speedlite, and it is under warranty, then it is probably a simple remedy of service Canon.

  If the flash is not under warranty and that the problem is with the hot-shoe is is not solid, it is often an easy repair.  If a foot have been irreparably damaged, the entire foot can be replaced (everything is a module) and it is an easy and I think a little low cost repair.

• 7 d & 580EX

  When I use my 580EX flash with my 18-135 STM, the flash shows that 28-105.  Is this normal?

  Yes

  There is a reflector inside the head of the flash which slides closer or more away from the lamp Flash to control if the flash creates a narrow or wide propagation of light. The flash can automatically move the reflector (you can also put it in manual mode) to match the goal - but those are the limits of travel.

  There is a sign of the scale-diffuser stowed in the upper part of the flash (with the bounce card). You can remove the Panel and rotate it down in front of the light to create a wider dissemination.

• 580EX II on a 6 d - problems with exposure

  I have a new 6 d, and I'm trying to do some portraits of 'test' with my 580EX II. I use the ETTL mode. and the aperture priority. I was able to adjust the exposure compensation while using my previous camera (1-3), but I can't seem to be able to alleviate the intensity of the flash either on the camera, r off-camera with my triggers Yongnuo 622 C.

  Any suggestions? establishing a single sample.

  You can never "soften" the intensity of the flash, you can only adjust the exposure to flash using "Flash Exposure Compensation. (FEC)

  The 1 d Mk III had a scale of exposure on the side right of the viewfinder, but put in FEC is also very easy on the 6 d.

  FEC is adjustable on the camera and the flash. The FEC flash will work around the FEC camera then make sure that both are '0 FEC' and then adjust according to your needs.

  Since you're using YN - 622C triggers, I would always stick with all menu flash of the 6 d in CEE.

  On the photo that you published the EXIF 'XMP' show-1 FEC.  I'm not familiar with the XMP data. Does this mean that this was done in post-processing?

  

  

  

  

• Speedlite 580EX II E - TTL mode problem

  Hello

  My speedlite has recently started to produce photos that are underexposed in E - TTL mode. Compared to the previous pictures, the difference is of about 2/3 - 1 full stop.

  I have done a number of tests using my EOS 40 d and an EF 24-105 f4/L IS USM lens.

  I used the fully charged batteries in the camera and speedlite (two alkaline batteries or NiMH in flash). I checked the exposure compensation and flash exposure compensation settings as well as all other parameters of the menu camera and custom in the speedlite and camera functions. Everything is in order and there is no conflict between the camera and the speedlite.

  I shoot in RAW and as a test, I took a number of pictures in the manual, Tv and Av modes, both without flash and using the flash on the camera. All were well exposed (with no exposure or flash exposure compensation).

  I tried recycling the speedlite to full power several times - time 5 seconds. Thus, it seems that the batteries were working well.

  I then carried out a number of tests in the manual, Av and Tv modes at various shutter opening and ISO settings to compare flash shipped with the speedlite E - TTL mode performance. Each of the photos taken with the built-in flash has been well exposed with a good histogram. Each comparison with the speedlite photo is underexposed, with a bad histogram and reduced file size. With some tests, it was necessary to set the exposure compensation to + 2/3 to + 1 stop flash to achieve results globally comparable to the onboard flash.

  However, this workaround solution produce satisfactory results for the subject distances over 20 feet, even at high ISO and long shutter speeds. The output of the speeedlite was much too low. These tests were done inside.

  Then, I made tests with the speedlite in manual mode with all of the production in full. A range of shutter speeds, apertures and ISO settings photos were completely blown out. The same result was obtained with the speedlite in sync and manual high speed selected if the shutter speed is equal to or less than 1/250 second (max height available for the on-board flash shutter speed).

  As a solution, I put the manual speedlite with sync high speed and set faster than 1/250 second shutter speeds and

  tried the exhibitions at different distances from the object. In General, the sync high-speed kicks. I have not yet checked performance to subject more than 30 feet, but a comprehensive exhibition was obtained in all tests to date, (mostly better with flash exposure compensation of-1/3). However, according to the ambient light auto focus was sometimes impossible.

  These tests, it seems that the device works well, the speedlite is capable of generating a full release and in manual/high-sync mode, it will produce a correct exposure with high shutter settings.

  While the two workaround solutions - E - TTL mode with timing of compensation and flash exposure manual/high speed - work, some experiments are required and both have their drawbacks. There are moments where I would like to make with the speedlite in manual, but for the most part, I was pleased with the results in E - TTL mode and I want to be able to restore my speedlite complete state.

  I wonder if anyone can shed light on fault (sensor/transistor?) and repair.

  I'm sorry to have provided a lot of details, but I wanted to avoid unnecessary questions or solutions that I've tried. Any assistance from members who are aware of this problem would be greatly appreciated.

  It is not a fault. It seems that if the flash does not work correctly.

  You realize, not you, the ETTL flash works differently in mode to manual exposure, it does in the automatic exposure modes?

  When you have the ETTL flash game and the camera to Tv or Av or P, the camera will expose by ambient light as if the flash is not there, and the flash is treated as a FILL light. The flash output is reduced by something like 1.5 or 1.7 stops full power, unless you overrided with + or - Flash Exposure Compensation.

  When you have the flash in ETTL and Manual, the flash is FULL and processed by the camera, as if it were the only light source. The ambient light is ignored (but according to the selected parameters can still be a factor in your images). Once more, you can substitute with FEC, if you wish.

  If I read your description, you see the difference between manual/FULL flash and AE/TTL. As long as you keep in mind these, you can configure the camera and flash in ETTL mode easily to many different situations.

  You will notice that the flash often recycle much faster when it acts as a FILLER, because it is drawn to the decline in production. I often use the fill outdoors during the day and can get two or three 'pop' quick lightning before it slows down for recycling.

  If you want the 580EX II to recycle faster, use of quality instead of alkaline batteries rechargeable batteries. For faster recycling, a CP - E4 battery pack is a nice addition. He added 8 AA plus size batteries that flash can appeal.

  I never use the built-in flashes, so I don't really know how they compare.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Speedlite 430EX

  Hi all

  This is my first post here...

  I tried to find a manual online usage, or (preferably) a quick reference guide. All those that you present to a Google search are for the newer models that have the features and settings not found on my flash.

  If anyone has any information on where I can find this would be appreciated

  Thank you

  Nick

  Here: http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/eos_slr_camera_systems/flashes/speedlite_430ex#Brochu...