Fixing flash Speedlite 430EX II

Similar Questions

• How connect wireless Speedlite 430EX III - RT for EOS 7 d Mark II using wireless radio signal?

  I just upgraded from a fighter to a 7 d and am sure he has the ability to use wireless for my Speedlite 430ES III - RT radio signal.  Unfortunately, I've exhausted myself trying to get them to connect.  If anyone has had the same issues, or have a solution to my problem or even have a link to a good video for the Speedlite & 7 D, I have?

  I watched a lot of YouTube videos and seem to have all the settings correct-channel, master/slave, A, B, Group C parameters, the unit is set for the wireless.

  Help please and thank you.

  The 7 d II can control only wireless Speedlite 430EX III - RT optically via its pop-up flash but not via radio signal.  So you can either get an another Speedlite 430EX III - RT or a dedicated controller ST - E3, mounted on the hot shoe of the camera.

• What Flash Speedlite will work with my Canon Rebel EOS T3 1100 D?

  Hi, I'm new to the era of digital and older than 55 years.  My husband bought me a Canon Rebel EOS T3 1100 D in July.   (I fought the "technological" upgrade until my old film camera Canon quit on me).  I took pictures since 1966, so I'm not new to photograph, just for our technological advances.

  I would be very grateful if someone could help me with which Flash Speedlite will work with my Canon Rebel T3 D 1100 camera specific.

  I thank very you much for your time.

  I just got my 430EX II that I bought for use with my Rebel T2i. The main reason I bought the Canon product was... using Canon products, I have never had a failure or a bad experience of 60 years. I use the LL 430EX for a few days and I'm very happy with the results. Much, much better than the built-in flash. It is on sale now with free shipping of Fed X. It is hard to beat.

  Good luck with your new camera.

  Joe

• Problem with flash Speedlite 320EX and EOS Rebel T3i (EOS600D)

  Hi, for about 18 months, I've used this combination without a single glitch or problem. I bought the Speedlite old second hand, and all died on me in Nov. The guy I bought said it was about 3-4 years wneh I t so I thought that I just replace the same model, but buy a new one this time.

  Since it seems however not the flash unit at full power at times and at others seems not synchronized with the shutter. Sometimes it works fine, but then doesn't flash at all or has a problem that I describe above. I have returrned the flash at the company and they said their technician checked and it works fine.

  Anyone else have these problems or indeed solved these problems? Any suggestions would be very welcome.

  Thank you in advance.

  PS. edited title because I just discovered the EOS600D called the EOS Rebel T3i in the USA. I'm from Scotland.

  Other wrote:

  Thanks, yes I tried to situate the flash every time, as well as all the parameters of compensation. What seems to work he left for 10 minutes, this iften solves the problem, and I can carry on shooting images for another period. So confusing and frankly boring.

  Bravo for the answer.

  Brian

  Ten minutes for each flash? In theory there could be something wrong with the condenser and the unit needs service.

  Ten minutes, then you can fire flashes several before he had to rest again? Most likely, the batteries are weak or inappropriate to the task. Make sure you use Eneloop pros. Most serious photographers think that there is nothing better.

• Unable to trigger the nissin Di622 flash Canon 430ex II

  My gear is Canon T1i camera, flash for Canon 430ex ii, flash Nissin Di622 (1st model) and radio trigger CowboyStudio (I don't remember the model).

  The 430 in ettl mode & on the camera will trigger the camera 622. The pop-up flash will trigger the camera 622. The 430 on camera & manual mode will not trigger the 622 camera and the camera 430 will not trigger the 622 in any mode.

  The radio trigger fires the camera 430. I want to trigger the camera 430 with the radio and have the 430 then trigger the 622. Is there a way to do this?

  I thought that most of the flash units can be triggered by a Flash of light such as the pop up flash. I wouldn't be able to trigger the 430 (in all modes) with the pop-up flash?

  No, some Nikon and other 3rd party flashes can be triggered with a simple flash, but not Canon.   Your 430EX II won't work as a "slave" If you have a 'master' that uses the system of Canon wireless. Slave Flash gun can operate using coded light signals of the "master" flash Cannon

  Some newer Canon cameras have a built-in pop-up flash that can act as a "master" of Canon, but your T1i does not work like that. Canon cameras that will make this are the T3i, T4i, T5i, 7 d, 60 d, or 70 d.

  You can also buy a Canon flash which can be used on your T1i and acts as a "master".  It's the Canon 550EX, 580EX, 580EX II and 600EX-RT. The cheapest Canon ST - E2, which can also act as master but does not have a Flash.

  There are also a few 3rd party flashes as Yongnuo, Nissin and Metz who can also work as 'master' using the gun system.

• & quot; Fix Flash & quot;

  If you are unable to install Flash 9, get this "Flash Fix" it worked for me. Good luck!
  
  http://www.donglefree.com/toppage1.htm
  
  
  

  If you are unable to install Flash 9, get this "Flash Fix" it worked for me. Good luck!

  http://www.donglefree.com/toppage1.htm

• Speedlite 430EX

  Hi all

  This is my first post here...

  I tried to find a manual online usage, or (preferably) a quick reference guide. All those that you present to a Google search are for the newer models that have the features and settings not found on my flash.

  If anyone has any information on where I can find this would be appreciated

  Thank you

  Nick

  Here: http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/eos_slr_camera_systems/flashes/speedlite_430ex#Brochu...

• External Flash

  I have a Canon EOS T3i and shoot in automatic mode.  My indoor photos appear to be yellowish.  Would an external flash and if so what model

  There are really two different questions here:

  (1) will Flash help with domestic plans?

  (2) why are the yellowish inner planes?

  Let's talk about the first "yellowish" problem.

  I'll guess that your inner planes have traditional incandescent lighting (tungsten filament traditional bulbs).  It is normal that these bulbs turn off a rather decidedly yellow/orange color cast.

  You can adjust the white balance to highlight "tungsten" (icon looks like a typical bulb).  But don't forget to change it when you are finished or outdoor photos eventually you are looking for a lot too blue.  You can use the "custom white balance" to fix as well (custom white balance is to take a picture of a neutral grey card, which is held in the same light you intend to shoot in.)  When you take the custom white balance, it will ask for the reference image, you take this picture of the gray card, and the camera adjusts the white balance to neutralize any color cast caused by light.  There are tutorials and videos from YouTube to show how to do.)

  Now on the flash...

  A lightning bolt has a "color temperature" designed to match daylight (outdoor light).  A wobbly thing happens when you mix "daylight" with "tungsten".  If the flash looks "white" while any traditional incandescent lighting will look especially orange.  If you set a to remove white balance, then these lamps will look normal, but your flash light will seem 'cool' and blue.

  The "fix" is to use what is called a 'CTO freeze' on the flash.  CTO stands for "Orange Color Temperature.  The color gel (you just piece of tape on the front of the flash) colors in the light of the flash to match the color of the lights.  Then, when you set the camera to use "tungsten" white balance, the whole scene seems normal.

  You can do a Google search for "flash CTO gels" and find a lot of information but also of companies that sell gels.

  Canon Speedlite new 600EX-RT comes with a gel of the CTO and darker orange gel (which approximates the color of the light of the Sun in the Sun).

  Sometimes I think that everyone should have a flash speedlite external flash.  There are two or three issues with the built-in flashes.

  First... they tend to not be very big and not very powerful.  They are good for distances of about 10' work... maybe 12' - but also they do not have the power to illuiminate a large surface.

  Second... they are not bent or diffuse light.  When the light comes from the same direction as the lens of the camera, he's hiding all the shadows.  For the great light, you actually want shadow.  Shadows allow three-dimensional objects show their dimensionality.  Textures look "flat" when there is no shadows.  In addition, it is a source of tiny pin-point so it doesn't create soft diffused light (diffused light is a light that seems to come from a large area - not a point source).

  Third... light has a problem of 'falling' (made all of the light).  As the distance of the light source increases, the light spreads.  The rate at which it spans East called the "inverse square law' and it applies to many things in addition to light.  But the inverse square law says that the light will effectively become half as brilliant whenever the distance from the source at a rate of increase.  This rate is based on the square root of 2 (which is a number very close to 1.4).

  Suppose you have a topic to 5' of light.  He gets an amount of light and you put the exposure for a beautiful display with this light at that distance.  An object that is 1.4 times as far (which would be) 7' would get HALF as much light.  An object 1.4 times further than (10') would get half as much again (or 1/8th).  14' is half as much again (1/16th) and 20' he 1/32nd as much light.

  If you "bounce" the light on the ceiling, then everything is raining down from above... There is always a problem of fall, but it will be not so drastically due to the new path taken by light.   You will get a room that is a little more uniform light.  But the built-in pop-up flash can not be put in the ceiling to "bounce" the light.  A flash mounted on external shoe has a head that can be tilted up to "bounce" the shot - and they tend to be much more powerful.

  Today I use 600EX-RT Speedlite flashes, but I own and have widely used the 430EX II and it is a large workhorse flash in a nice sized package.

• 580EX II eTTL full power using E - TTL FLASH off-camera cord

  With the help of a 5 d Mk III with 580EX II.  On the claw, eTTL works very well. Can access the menu camera very well.  When I join eTTL off-camera flash cord to get the Speedlites off camera, only full of works of power and compensation does not at all.  Full power only and can not access the settings in the menu of the device.  When I do the same thing to the 430EX II everything works very well on and off-camera with the same nine cord and menu is accessible and settings can be changed.

  No idea what it could be?

  JeepDaddy wrote:
  This isn't a power cord Canon, it's Chinese. I think it's a combination of cord of low quality and reliable contacts on Speedlite flashes old guns. After I posted this question and had a cup of coffee, I tried again and magically it started working. I swapped the Speedlites and the 430 would not work, but then he slips and turns off several times it worked.

  I don't use my Speedlite flashes very often, but whenever I've done, it seems that I have trouble connecting with all that I use on the inclusion of the claw. I ETTL triggers that I always seem to have the same problem with.

  Maybe can anyone suggest a way to make more reliable contacts?

  The evidence is to try a Canon cord. Although bad contacts on flashes Speedlite is a possibility, the fact that these two of them only sporadically suggests that the cord is at fault. And since you rarely use the Speedlite flashes, you have probably not given time to contacts wear.

• Can I wireless use a 430 EX II as a slave with the flash integrated the T3i EOS?

  I have a Rebel EOS T3i.  According to its manual, pp 191 ff, I can launch a remote speedlite wireless from the camera.  I get an error message cannot find the speedlite even if I set up my 430 EX II speedlite according to its instructions manual, pp25 ff.  Thanks for your help

  Yes - the 430EX II will function as a slave and the T3i (but not the T2i or earlier) can trigger remotely the speedlite.

  It of a little complicated and can be confusing.

  First... set the 430EX II in the correct mode.  Press and HOLD the 'Zoom' button for 2 seconds approximately.  This active a menu that allows you to put the flash is in a mode single-fash vs remote "slave".  Semicircular keys to switch to read 'slave '.  Press 'set' (in the middle of these buttons of a semicircle shape.)  I happen to have my 430EX II practical, but it must default to the slave 'A' channel '1 '.

  Now for the camera.

  On your camera menu, tab to the left (which we'll call 'Caméra Red #1' to distinguish it from other tabs) has 'Flash' control as the last option on this screen.  Either way for cameras with a built-in popup flash, the menu is marked 'Flash Control'.  For devices that do NOT have the built-in pop-up flash, this menu is called "Flash speedlite external control.

  In this submenu (Flash control), make sure "Flash of fire" (the top option) is set to 'Enable' or 'CustWireless' - should NOT be set to 'disable' or nothing will work.

  You will see a menu choice for "external Flash func. parameter' (and also 'External flash C.Fn setting'.)  IGNORE THESE!  This is for the hot flashes that are in the camera hotshoe and do NOT control the remote flashes wireless.  This is probably where you were getting confused.

  Then go to "built-in flash func. the parameters' where, paradoxically, you get to control how your device communicates with your flash REMOTE (Yes, I know that this is not the most intuitive place to put it.)  It turns out that it is your INTERNAL flash that is responsible for communicating with any flash slave remote.  The optical wireless actually uses visible light (many people assume that it is a communication infrared - me is understood - at the end of the day, I learned that was incorrect and it's actually the visible light of the flash itself.)  He quickly sends communication to remote control by pulse codes to tell flash what to do remotely.  All this happens until the image is exposed and you'd swear the only blinked once eyes flash... but it turns out that it is actually very busy away from the impulse to connect).

  In the "func flash built-in. menu of settings"there are a number of things that you must set.

  If you set the flash mode built in 'EasyWireless' it will be gray on many other parameters... basically the camera automatically decides what he wants to do.  I think that the only definition not gray is the channel number (which must match the channel number on your flash.  Channel numbers helps you can draw on events where other photographers are also using wireless flash and have no conflicts where they are triggering your flashes and vice versa.

  If you set the flash mode built in "CustWireless" it allows you to set other options.  CustWireless offers the most control.  In the end, it's probably mode you will use the most, once you get used to distance Speedlites.

  In CustWireless, the menu option 'Wireless' Func mode. becomes available.  This option allows you to decide if you want (I take these out of use for simplicity to explain):

  (a) speedlites both internal and external to the fire as a single group (icon external flash, a PLUS sign (+) and the camera icon)

  (b) the Speedlite flashes inside and outside to the fire, but allowing you to control the power RATIO (icon external flash, a COLON symbol ( and the camera icon means "ratios" can be customized.))

  (c) only external Speedlites (only the external flash icon is on this option - no icon on the device).

  I want to mention something about this external option only because it confuses most people initially.  The device communicates with the slave through the on-camera flash.  The flash on the camera quickly pulses to send the instructions for flashes to distance.  This means that to use the slave flashes, the on-camera flash must be addressed (in jumps - upward position).  If you ask for external flash only (without camera) the flash on the camera flashed only instructions BEFORE the opening of the shutter of the camera to take the exhibition.  When I started to learn from external Speedlite flashes, I saw the light on-camera flash and thought that my settings were ignored.  Do not worry... When you archive your images, you will see that there is no light provided by the on-camera flash during exposure... all this flashing comes before the opening of the shutter.   Everything happens so fast that you'd swear all the flashes triggered only once... but in reality they are actually much of 'talk' before taking the picture, but this happens at an incredible speed.

  And one last comment... because the camera communicates through Optics (visible light) flash to talk to remote controls, it is important from the bottom of the body of your 430EX II can 'see' the flash on the camera.  In small parts, that no matter where the lower part of the body showed up... you notice the impulses of the light of the on-camera flash.  But in large halls or outside the lower body of your 430EX II (where the receiver is located) will have any reflection of the walls, etc.  In this case, simply turn the lower part of the body of the 430EX II so that it faces the on-camera flash.  You can then rotate the head of the 430EX II at the point where you need.  The 430EX II will trigger even in daylight, as long as it can 'see' as the on-camera flash.

  Here is a video that can help you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQIyPWGPp5A

• Does Canon 70 d has a bulit in triggering the flash! Or I need a third device!

  Hello. Well, I turned off the camera speedligt but I could not do proud without having built in flash on. What happens if I want to use the camera light speed without one on the camera. as I know that canon has a bilut regier and I did not need third party peripheral!
  Thank you

  The firing the flash using the flash on the camera and it is optical. You can 'turn off' the flash to use only the flash off camera, but the on-camera flash should always be raised.

  It will fire a pre-Flash, while the shutter of the camera is always closed to assess the light (if you use E - TTL instead of manual) and also to send instructions to the camera flash (again, for the E - TTL... but also to tell the off camera flash when fire.). The calendar has a fractional period. Then he tells flash off camera to fire trees, opens the shutter, then the detached flash (and only the off-camera flash), then the shutter closes.

  This all happens VERY quickly and you'd swear two flashes fired at the same time - when in fact the on-camera flash fires when the shutter is closed, and the detached flash fired his last shot when the shutter is open.

  To do this, you will need to go into your control the flash menu and tell him to 'disable' the on-camera flash. Disabling does not mean that the flash get used... It simply means that it does not at this final moment when the shutter is actually open.

  Also note that, because it using visible light (no IR) to convey instructions, detached flash sensor must have line-of-sight to the on-camera flash. If it is a flash like the Canon 430EX II Flash speedlite, the sensor is in the lower part of the Flash. This means that you may need to rotate the lower part of the flash to face the camera, then rotate the flash head to send the light where you need it. If the lower unit, simply is facing toward the front you will find that it is less reliable (especially on the longer distances or outdoors).

• Adobe Flash and other questions about Flash crashes

  There are several cases of Adobe Flash crashes if I use Firefox, IE or Google Chrome - browsers and simply reload the page corrects this BUT repeats again and again.

  I am running Windows 8.1 64 bit in which the Flash program comes apparently integrated in the operating system as a hybrid 32/64 bit. When I inspect the add-on version Flash in Firefox, and an audit of the update, Adobe points out, correctly, that my system is 64 bit, English, Firefox Windows. Then when I do the same thing in Windows Internet Explorer, by checking the version shipped, I get a message that KB2999249 is available as a download fix Flash problems in Internet Explorer. Since this installation, the Flash has collapsed in IE [yet].

  So my question is: How can I be certain that when Firefox reports that Flash is "day" that he is indeed a version 64 bit compatible? Note that the download from Adobe site identifies only one version available for Firefox, IE and Google - the current version is the 15.0.0.152 file: NPSWF32_15_0_0_152.
  The "32" in the file name part suggests that it is a 32-bit application and, if so, where can I find NPSWF64_15_o_o_152 [if exists]?

  edited the title of this thread to reflect questions

  I check my addition of the Manager of ons regularly, even obsessive. I still have the last flash.

• Flashing black rectangles on the normal display mode (not full screen)

  In the last two weeks, I downloaded the latest version of Firefox. Now when I open a browser, black flashing boxes appear whenever my cursor moves and the screen is unusable because of this. The only solution I have found so far is to use the mode setting full-screen. Then, the screen is stable and the black boxes are not anywhere on the page. Anyone has a suggestion on how to fix flashing black boxes?

  Please see images added to this posted question. Thank you!!!

• With the help of my Speedlite

  Hello

  I have just bought a flash speedlite Neewer TT560 and use it with my canon 6 d. I can't t to work and feel I'm missing something very basic to connect the camera to the external flash protection. The speedlite itself works as he has a test function.

  I mount the speedlite on my canon shoe according to the instructions. What to do next? Do I need another cable so that pressing it down the shutter, the flash works?

  In the camera, go to the control menu - externa protection flash setting flash comes up with the message "incompatible flash or the flash output is off. I also have a Yongnuo speedlite and the same thing happens.

  Well Yes, the Yongnuo RF-602 (a $20 set) or the RF603 II ($30 a set).  Highly recommended.

  I use the 602 for years and I think it's a great relaxation.  I own a set of triggers Yongnuo RF-622 that are compatible eTTL, but I use mostly my 602 s because I'm really not using eTTL and I love how small and compact are the 602 s.

  I can't speak to the 603 II by personal experience, but it looks like they have made some nice changes.  Just make sure that if you get the 603 that you do not get the first former version. If I bought today I'm not sure that I'd get - 602 s have a 1/4 "threads on the bottom which allows them to screw directly into my tripods.  This is a fantastic feature, I have no idea why they don't for the 603 s. This unique feature is probably more for me than anything I've mentioned below.  Without this thread, you must use a claw, which is not nearly as robust as the thread.

  In addition, the 602 transmitter is tiny, I like, but it has a couple of down sides:

  • It uses a special battery (CR2), which are expensive, hard to find, and I do not have a loader for.  They last forever (well over a year of frequent use), but still, it is good that the 603 II uses all of the AAA batteries.
  • There is no mechanism of locking on the feet.  It is not a problem on the receivers, since I use the thread 1/4 ".  But the small tiny transmitter slipped out on occasion.  LLA 603 II added a lock on the foot so it doesn't slip off.
  • There is no power switch on the transmitter.  If you take just the transmitter in your bag and something presses against it, it will wear out the battery.  I built a little case for it for storage.

  And one more for 603 II.  Switch on the receiver 602 and the 603 s original, was poorly placed on top, so you couldn't get there when a flash is mounted.  They finally have it moved to the side of the 603 II.  It's actually a nice update that I wish I had.  Other differences above don't bother me much.  However, if I were buying today, I'm not sure I'd get.

  Edit: one more thing I forgot.  The 603 II has a degree of transmission.  If you can ride a Transceiver on your camera to send a message and you can always put a flash (or even another trigger) above it.  It is not something I do regularly, but I needed this function and has been unable to do with my 602 s.

• Switchable Graphics - mode for Pavilion m6-1009TX fixed?

  I just bought a Pavilion m6-1009TX who has switchable graphics (Radeon HD 7760 m). Is there a fixed mode? I've updated the BIOS but does not appear.

  I also have a Pavilion dv6 (w / a Radeon HD 6770 m) that I managed to put in mode fixed (flashed BIOS)

  I hope / expect M6 would be the same

  Hello

  Please check using the following link:

  http://h20000.www2.HP.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/document.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&ObjectID=c02731962&JumpID=reg_R1002_USEN

  Kind regards.