75-300mm F4. 5 - 5.6 (SAL75300) of the A200 is not compatible with the A57?

Similar Questions

• Why is there no DPP data for the lens EF75 - 300mm f/4 - 5.6

  DPP is not given for my EF75 - 300mm f/4-5. 6 goal.  Why and when?

  Hi PajamaGuy!

  Thanks for posting.

  There is no data because the function digital optimizer DPP lens is not compatible with the goal of f/4-5. 6 EF 75-300mm.  This function is not compatible with certain objectives, most of which are in our range of the L series.  We do not have an estimate for if or when the DLO function may be compatible with the objective of f/4-5. 6 EF 75-300mm.

  This has not answered your question? Find more help contact us.

• Sony TV converters

  I have the full camera framed with Sony A99v. My goal are Sony 70-300mm G, Sigma 150-500mm F5-6. 3 APO HSM. 1.4 to 2.0 of Sony AF teleconverters will work with the A99 motorway and the 2 lens I mentioned. What other Sony lens work with the teleconverters and A99v? I have not found information on what works with these converters. I don't want to put the money without knowing that they will work. Thank you

  That these lenses are compatible with the teleconverters. the two lenses that you are not on the list.

  NOTE: due to the quality of this converter design (elements 5/4 groups), the only teleconverter will adapt and work with a wide selection of lenses. Only the Sony or Minolta following objectives are compatible:

  • f/2.8 300mm (D) SSM
  • f/2.8 70-200mm (D) SSM
  • f/2.8 APO G 200
  • f/2.8 APO G 300
  • f/4 APO G 300
  • f/4.5 APO G 400
  • 600 f/4 APO G

  Note: the following objectives can be used in manual focus mode:

  • 70-400mm f/4-5, 6 G SSM
  • 135mm f/2.8 [T4.5] STF
  • Macro 200mm f/4 G

  all a-mount will work with your A99 but it is strongly recommended that you use a lens that is designed for a full frame as your A99 sensor, also the problem with the teleconverters is that they reduce the amount of light to the sensor so if your using the Converter 2 x one F2.8 it becomes a F5.6.

• The Tamron lens with t5i compatibility?

  Hello

  I was wondering if anyone knows if a Tamron AF28-300mm/3.5-6.3 XR Di lens is compatible with the t5i. According to the Tamron website, it is compatible with the t3i and t4i but does not list the t5i. I was thinking about this Web page, I've referenced is perhaps not up-to-date. Anyone know?

  Thank you!

  Julie ^_^

  BTW, the model number is A061E

  It will fit & should work as expected but from time to time the former odd goal must be re chipped to work properly. If you already have the lens try & check that the AF works correctly. It is not a reason not to install & take a few test shots.

• Lenses and camera full photo frame

  I currently have the 1100D, and I could soon get the 5 d Mark II. I just need to know if my lenses are compatible with the Mark II. My lenses are: 28-105mm and 90-300mm.

  My lenses are compatible with this camera?

  Thanks in advance!

  Canon EF (not EF-S objectives) objectives, they are compatible.

  If they are a different manufacturer they will fit, but a few drinks are designed to harvest of sensor devices, so you can get the vignetting.

  What are the manufacturers of the lenses?

• Lens sizes / use / meaning

  I currently have the lens EF-S 18-55mm and EF 75-300mm lens for my Canon Rebel T3i. I was graciously endowed with a 40mm lens for Christmas with the option to exchange it for another purpose. We'd like to think that the 40mm is covered by the 18-55mm lens, but I'm not completely sure how it works so any assistance with suggestions, meanings of size and/or what they do greatly would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!

  Caroline_7 wrote:

  I currently have the lens EF-S 18-55mm and EF 75-300mm lens for my Canon Rebel T3i. I was graciously endowed with a 40mm lens for Christmas with the option to exchange it for another purpose. We'd like to think that the 40mm is covered by the 18-55mm lens, but I'm not completely sure how it works so any assistance with suggestions, meanings of size and/or what they do greatly would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!

  Yes, the 18-55mm lens can capture the same field of view as the 40mm lens.  The difference is that the 40mm can do to a greater opening (allows more light in and allows a smaller depth of field for that look "background blur").  It will also produce images sharper than the 18-55.  How much sharper depends on how to use it.

  Prime lenses (no zoom) are not for everyone.  You must use your feet instead of zoom in and out.  In addition, they (generally) don't have image stabilizer, which has your 18-55.  The compromise is that they can produce extremely sharp images and allow you to shoot in dim light situations.

  I tend to like them, so maybe I'm not the best person to comment on.  But one of the main advantages of the lenses privileged is a very wide opening.  The 40mm "pancake" lens is actually not all that wide at f/2.8.  It's better than your zoom, but not as wide as something like the 50mm 1.8 "nifty fifty".  The main advantage of the pancake lens is just that it is very thin, for those who want a small lens.  Personally I would recommend the 50mm lens on the 40mm, because it has greater openness.  But I have never used the 40mm - there are many people who love him.

  Be that as it may, I do not recommend trying a first goal.  As I said, they are not for everyone.  But you won't know until you try.  And what better way to try to donate.

• would it not good to buy a 18-135 mm F3. 5 - 5.6) IS and a 70-300 mm F4-5. 6 IS both for my Canon 70 D?

  would it not good to buy a 18-135 mm F3. 5 - 5.6) IS + a 70-300 mm F4-5. 6 IS both for my Canon 70 D?

  Or a 18-135 mm F3. 5-5, 6) IS + a 55-250 mm F4-5. 6 IS VTS?

  Or with a 70-200? but budget then increases too.

  What do you recommend? i want to have fun soooon photograph animals you in Sri Lanka. Later, I would choose a macro to take the picture of bugs when I bike, trails and also the telescopic should I choose.

  STM 18-135 and 55-250 STM would create a nice kit the 70 d. STM 18-55 and 55-250 STM work as well but would need to change lenses more often.

  I recommend the 55-250mm IS STM on the 55-250mm IS or IS II because it is stronger and has an element before anti-rotation. This also applies to the versions of 18-55.

  I would not recommend the70 - 300mm IS because it is an older design with Micro-USM autofocus and a rotating front element, which can be frustrating when you use polarizing filter.  The 55-250mm IS STM is sharper than the 70-300mm autofocus STM is faster and quieter than the AF used in the 70-300mm

  If you can afford it, the 70-200mm L or 70-300mm L lenses are even better.

• I have a rebelT5 the 75-300mm zoom zooms not correctly, it hangs or no zoom not at all?

  I have a rebelT5, 75-300mm zoom lens won't zoom properly, it hangs or zoom not at all, the 18-55 zoom lens very well (nice and smooth) am I missing something?

  Is there a zoom lock? I know there is one on the 70-300.

• I am currently deciding between 100-400 f 4, 5-5, 6, 400mm f 5.6 premium and the 300mm f4 lens.

  Currently I have a 70-200l f4 lens and want to buy an extra lens which would give me more range. I am considering the three I mentioned above, but am favoring the 300mm f4 Prime right now. I'd appreciate any feedback anyone can offer about these lenses or other recommendations.

  Thank you!

  Thanks for the tips, I ended up buying the 70-300L lens. I agree with you on the issue of only being able to afford both of these lenses. I was really happy with my decision to buy this one.

  Thanks, Ron

• How to get decent macro shot with my T3i + EF 70-300mm f/4-5. 6 IS USM

  Someone here can direct me to a good tutorial on getting the macro shots decent with my objective T3i + EF 70-300mm f/4-5. 6 IS USM?  I'm pretty good in online searches, but I can't find are reviews and unboxings .  Even the manual I found isn't really give instructions re: macro, even if the lens itself says '1.5m/4.9ft MACRO' right on it.

  Thank you very much in advance for any help!
  Deb

  To use the lens for close-up photography, zoom focal length max (300mm for example) and run the tune-up to the minimum focus distance.  The distance of the development of saddle is close enough consider it is a zoom 70-300mm lens... but it's nowhere near as close as a dedicated macro lens to true.

  You can get close... There are two ways to do this.

  (1) you can use a near plan diopter.  So that the lens you want the Canon telephoto lens 500 d (specifically you want the version with diameter of 58 mm threads to attach to the front of the lens 70-300 mm).  It's about $85.  It is a goal to two elements (which is good better than any diopter close-up of part 3).

  (2) you can use "extension tubes".  An extension tube is (believe it or not) exactly what the name says... it is a hollow tube... and it extends the distance between the lens and the camera body.  You attach to the camera (such as a lens) and then set the goal to draw instead of the body.  This positions the lens away from the plan of the image inside the unit and, therefore, range full tune-up of the camerea is shifted more near the camera (focusing more close distance was 1.5 meter without extension tube, but will be reduced to 42 centimeters just with the attached Canon 25 mm extension tube).  It allows not only the camea to focus at a distance closer, it also increases the size of the image) extension Tubes don't have any glass in there - they are completely hollow.  The body of the tube a pine e-mail to transmit signals through so that the camera body and the lens will always be able to communicate.

  The Canon 25mm extension tube is about $140.  Kenko is another popular brand (their tubes are delivered as a 'game' of three different lengths).

  Whether you use tubes extension or close-up diopters, Cannon suggests that you should manually focus the lens.

  When you arrive at very close distance of focus, depth of field can become quite shallow.  If shallow you can't get as much of your subject in focus as you want.  Use the Hard-Core (a) macro photographers a tripod (because after precisely focusing...) "If your body moves a few millimeters, it may completely lift the subject outside the home).  If you do not want to make sure that you do not move (and the best way to do that is usually to use a stationary object to hold the camera - as a tirpod.)

  They can also use a technique called "focus stacking."  The development of stacking is to take several pictures.  You take a picture, tweaking the development by a few millimetres and take another shot and repeat until you have enough plans to stack the subject of front-to-back with all the positions of different orientation.  The images are then merged using software (Photoshop will do, but there are third-party products that are dedicated to the development of stacking as well.)

  I did it by wrapping a piece of tape around the ring to focus on my goal.  I then focus point of closest focus and use a marker to mark this point (on the Strip).  Then I focus on the point most distant from the focus I care and mark this spot on the Strip as well.  Now I take a series of photos... each, then slightly focus a little bit at a time, take another picture, and repeat until I got enough to get the closest points to the farthest, I scored on that tape.

  More difficult Basic macro photographers will sometimes use what is called a rail development.  It is a track that Mount you on the tripod and then set the camera to a carrier rolling on "rail".  Rail has fine adjustment that allow to move the camera with control.  You run the rail back (furthest point), then focus your goal for the closet focusing point on your topic.  Rather than turn the ring on the lens... you use the buttons on the focus rail - which physically moves the camera forward.

• Sony SAL75300 lens

  I am the owner of Sony SAL75300 lens, is there a tele-converter that can go with this goal. Kindly advice.

  The answer is 'no '.

  The long answer is "Yes, but..." "Most teleconverters cost much more than the SAL75300 and if you found one that was consistent (that is, can in good physical shape and will not damage the lens or himself during the operation), it wouldn't support AF with any reliability, and it would degrade the quality of the image faster than simply cropping of the images of the objective in itself.

  Teleconverters are cruel and ruthless and surprisingly strong demand and fast lenses think in a first time - 300/2.8 or 500/4.  I used Sony X with the 70 - 200/2.8 G SSM 2.0 (more sharp lens I've ever used) and was disappointed by the results.

  If my message saved you several hundred dollars and a headache, please mark it as "accept as a Solution.

• HD PENTAX DA 55-300mm F4-5. 8 unrecognized ED WR (EXIF seems to be OK)

  I did a few tests with my new HD PENTAX DA 55-300mm F4-5. 8 ED WR lens. After you import the images in LR 2015.4 (latest version) on a mac (OSX 10.11.3) info from the lens is not in one of the panels of information.

  Other objectives are recognized without any problems (35 2.8 Limited or even the old FA80-320).

  
  For additional checks, the EXIF data is present in the file I used exiftool and obtain the following information:

  Image size: 6080 x 4032

  The lens ID: HD PENTAX DA 55-300mm F4-5. 8 ED WR

  Megapixels: 24.5

  Overview of the Image: (data binary 55637 bytes, use option b to extract)

  Scale Factor in equivalent 35 mm: 1.5

  Shutter speed: 1/250

  Circle of Confusion: 0.020 mm

  Field of view: 9.1 deg

  Focal length: 150.0 mm (35 mm: 225,0 mm equivalent)

  Hyperfocal distance: 200,58 m

  The light value: 11.6

  I downloaded a DNG file to my dropbox account - hope you can help me with the problem: https://t.co/uyMLDQkaZO

  In the Panel metadata of LR, the lens information are not displayed.

  

  I also tried to copy an existing lens profile PENTAX (smc PENTAX - DA 55-300 mm F4-5. 8 ED)-RAW.lcp with the id of the lens changed '7 203' instead of ' 7 236 "and renamed all occurrences of the name of lens the news one.".

  After you have copied the file PENTAX (HD PENTAX DA 55-300 mm F4-5. 8 ED WR)-RAW.lcp in the folder Users/steffen/Library/Application Support/Adobe/CameraRaw/LensProfiles/1.0 - now the lens profile can be selected in the lens correction Panel and corrections can be applied. But when you import new images, the goal is still not recognized by LR.

  Hi Steffen,

  As you have discovered, the lens is not matched in Lightroom, because the version "WR" weatherproof of the lens does not have a dedicated profile. Also, there are two versions of this goal that share the same optical formula as the goal of "WR", and these have profiles but use single lens IDS. I'll add a profile to the next version of Lightroom and Camera Raw for the variant 'WR' of this lens.

  Thanks for your detective work.

  Kind regards

  -Chris

• Nikon NIKKOR 70-300mm F4 VR 1. 5 - 5.6 access via Lightroom 5.5

  I posted this question to the Lightroom Forum, but am not entirely satisfied with the answers.  With our apologies...

  A profile named "NIKON 1 J3 (Nikon NIKKOR 70-300mm F4 VR 1.). (5-5.6) - RAW.lcp "has been added in the lens profile folder when I installed the camera Raw 8.6 RC.  However, this objective does not appear in the profiles for the images with the 70-300 lens mounted on my Nikon 1 V3 CX.  However, when I open one of the files NAVE using CS6 or CC the lens profile is present.

  
  

  Can someone explain why this is the case?

  
  

  LR knows exactly what the Adobe profiles it comes with and ignores all other profiles in the area of application profiles, so even if there is only a single location on a Mac (where there are two on a PC) and then LR 5.5 doesn't know about the new profiles delivered by ACR 8.6 RC, and won't see them.

  The workaround is always the same - profile of copy of the RC ACR 8.6 than LR can not see in the folder shared, third parties that the RSQ describes the location of.  It of a temporary workaround because once LR does have and find out about the new profile, you no longer need the RC profile in the shared location of the users, and really should be deleted, unless they change the name of it between the RC and the final version, in which case you will need to keep users one so stop all old profile you did until the final would still find it.

• New EF 70-300mm f/4-5, 6 IS II USM lens

  Does anyone know if the manual control of AF on this goal is not yet published will require pressing the shutter halfway?

  You are referring to the process required for the STM lenses?

  It shouldn't because it's a USM lens.

• EF 75-300mm f/4-5. 6 III USM

  Do I need a tripod to take action shots with this lens for my camera T3I?

  Probably not. More details would help, but action requires high shutter speeds and generally good panning skills.