The Tamron lens with t5i compatibility?

Similar Questions

• 3 X TC will not work with Tamron lens

  I need help, I bought a Soligor 3 X Converter TV for use with my Tamron 150 ~ 600 mm lens, the body is a 60 d. The problem is when I try to take a shot I get an error message "Err 01 communication between the camera and lens is faulty. Clean the contacts of the lens. "If I try a Canon 50 mm f/1.4 with the Soligor 3 X tele-converter & works very well. Any suggestions to why this TV converter does not work with my Tamron? I thought that it has just a Ribbon inside the TC to establish a connection.

  PS. I also tried the Tamron 150 ~ 600mm & TC with my girlfriends rebel and I get the same message. I have a 1. 4 X and a 2.0 X TC and Tamron 150 ~ 600 mm lens works very well. Also I clean the contacts from each end of the TC X 3. Thank you, Blair

  I assume that the error message is pretty generic and applies to any type of communication error, including incorrect data.  The incorrect data, which I think would be f/stop, which in this case would be higher to f/16 reports ot the camera...  The camera that rejects a number as being of bad data, out of range, etc.

• a lot of time, I click on Firefox, also a compatibility of add-on runs after a few moments, the screen fills with Firefox Android adds; It's embarrassing. How

  The last update of Mozilla change the way my computer starts when I click on Mozilla on the desktop. The first think what will happen is that a small window appears and tells me it is to check for the compatibility of modules. After what seems like a long time, the screen fills with a sort of Mozilla on Android and Mozilla. I must then x to access my email page. It's embarrassing. How can I fix it?

  Firefox says it's just updated each time that it starts - how to fix

  It looks like this problem.

• The camera lens to photograph jewelry with some Alpha 77 M2

  Hello

  I want to photograph jewelry and been using the Alpha 77 M2 for this purpose.

  There are a lot of lens available for this camera, please sugget me a best len who can give more details and a larger DOF for this purpose. I have the necessary lighting and the available light tent.

  Thank you

  The simple answer is pretty well no matter what lens, but to give the results you need depends on your expectations and end-use. If you want to provide shots to a client and it'll print 8 feet high, then the sharpest lens you can get will be a must, but if it's only for ads on ebay then a basic kit lens will suffice!

  First of all, the most important thing to get right is the lighting. I know say you you have the necessary kit, but it does not mean that it is easy to do things and jewellery is particularly difficult. The trick is to get the levels just to show the metal involved and stones as naturally as possible, limit the reflections and shadows.

  If you can master that, you're over halfway there!

  The next part is to adjust the depth of field. The choice of the lens will be important here, but you want a thin DoF paper you could in portraits, so a very fast lens is not a necessity. Of course, DoF varies with the focal length if you keep the field of view; in other words, if you are using a telephoto then you will get a larger DoF because you are further away from getting the same coverage.

  In the end, you need a lens that can focus close enough for you to fill the frame with your article and give you the necessary sharpness. The probability is a good starting point and one of the least expensive will probably be the Sony 50 mm f1.4, or even the old version of Minolta.

  That is not ideal and particularly small valuables, so you may need to consider a macro, for example the Sony 100 mm f2.8 or Sigma 70 mm lens.

  As I mentioned earlier, you'll know only your specific need.

• The zoom lens compatibility

  I have an EOS REBEL G and want to know if a vivitar 75-205 macro zoom lens 22005946 No. is going to work on it.

  If you are looking at a manual focus zoom Vivitar 75-205mm F3. 8 - f4.8... This was done for the old Canon FD lens mount used on FTb, AE-1, a-1, F-1, etc. of the cameras... Serial number #22xxxxxxx you mention strongly suggests he is a FD lens, made by Kiron for Vivitar. If this is the case, it's probably a very nice lens, but...

  No, which cannot be used on any EOS camera (film or digital). These all use the modern EF mount.

  I did a search and did not find any Vivitar 75-205mm in the modern mount. So I think that what you're watching is the old FD mount and the answer is 'no' (this is probably why it's so cheap).

  EDIT: there is a 75-300mm lens Canon EF that sells expensive and will work on a g of rebels. It is not the best lens optically or for general performance, but it is one of the lowest cost since this seems to be your biggest concern. This can be purchased for as little as $115 (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-III-Telephoto-Packaging/dp/B00GEE8I1Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=13910997...). You might be able to find it for less used.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• windows xp with the norton anti-virus program compatibility

  When I installed the Norton Anivirus with spy software with my winows xp operating system, the computer has been significantly slower and periodically would be ' freexe for about 15 seconds on several occasions.  Are there other antivirus programs that would be more compatible?  Thank you.

  "Sam L. Friedman" wrote in the new message: * e-mail address is removed from the privacy... *

  When I installed the Norton Anivirus with spy software with my winows xp operating system, the computer has been significantly slower and periodically would be ' freexe for about 15 seconds on several occasions.  Are there other antivirus programs that would be more compatible?  Thank you.

  Norton Antivirus has the reputation of hogging resources, which can have a negative impact on older computers.  McAfee would probably not be better.

  Appropriate alternatives could include Microsoft Microsoft Security Essentials or the free version of Avast Antivirus.  If you prefer to pay for security software, you can consider ESET NOD32 Antivirus or Kaspersky.

  You should Google for reviews and comparison tables.

  However, you should never use more than one antivirus program resident on your computer at any time.  Therefore, you must uninstall and remove all traces of Norton, before you try to install or use any other program AV.

  Download the Norton removal tool to
  http://us.Norton.com/support/kb/web_view.jsp?wv_type=public_web&docURL=20080710133834EN&LN=en_US
  Save the Norton removal tool to your desktop.
  Open Control Panel
  Double-click Add Remove programs
  Use this menu to remove Norton
  Then, run the Norton removal tool
  Remove the Norton Removal Tool to your desktop
  Install your replacement antivirus software.

• Cannot open the exe file in Windows 7. The program opens in XL, but when I select this compatibility and all the others, the installation stops with the message return WinExec failed = 216.

  The software opens with a lock to the computer, it opens on to and then can be copied from there to another computer.  The program has been downloaded on all versions up to XL.  The 64-bit to 32-bit conversion programs do not allow a download on my Windows 7.

  Hello

  Try this hope of link, this will help you
  http://www.FixYa.com/support/t5004203-winexec_failed_return_216
  Mo /.

• Lightroom 6.6.1 can't find the right lens profile more

  Hello

  I have updated to Lightroom to the latest version, of camera raw 9.6 6.6.1 and now I have the problem that lightroom does not find the correct lens profile more.

  I use the same equipment and workflow as before. Even if I select the profile of lens manually, it doesn't have the right profile, but when I check an older import some weeks ago, selected and used Lightroom the right profile, which is located on the old selectable photos!

  Material used:

  Nikon D750

  Nikon 24-120/4

  Tamron 70-200/2.8

  Windows 8.1

  Any ideas?

  Some current problems?

  Kin regards,

  Martin

  Two of these lens profiles are integrated with LR. This means that you manually select them and you do not put a checkmark in the optical Correction area.

  

  Then uncheck the option for corrections to activate the profile. you will then see a box of low red described "applied objective integrated profile.

  Of course, you can make the correction manually if you wish.

• How to fix cracked iPhone 6s is more the camera lens?

  I have an iPhone more rose gold 6s and I dropped and cracked the camera lens. I was wondering how much it would cost to repair.

  Apple will not fix it. They with you offer a replacement warranty that you can buy off.

• Can satellite A100 - I put the HARD drive with 7200 RPM model?

  Hello

  I have a Satellite A100-044, I would spend my the 120 GB HARD drive to a more large (250 GB or 320 GB).

  A 7200 RPM would work on this subject? It seems Web compatibility sites they show 5400 RPM more, I would like to set up my laptop for recording/mastering so music wants a fast machine, I don't really mind if it consumes more energy...

  Any thoughts?

  Thank you
  Stone

  Hello!

  Of course, you can swap the HARD drive with a model more fast using 7200 RPM. But as you say, it takes a little more energy. The new HARD drive should be a little faster, especially access time should be lower.

  250 GB or 320 GB should be possible; you need a HARD drive with SATA interface.

  I hope I could help a bit.

  Good bye

• I NEED TO KNOW WHY THE _ THERE IS NO COMPATIBILITY FOR WINDOWS XP MODE 7 HOME PREMIUM EDITION. AND WHY HAVE WE NOT "WAGES" TO ASK FUNDAMENTAL QUESTIONS AFTER THAT WE PAID HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS FOR THE SOFTWARE?

  I PAID A LOT FOR NEW WINDOWS IN NOVEMBER LAST, AND I ARE NOT ELIGIBLE FREE SUPPORT?  THAT BREATH!  TEXAS INSTRUMENTS GOT GREEDY IN THE 1980S AND TOYOTA IS GOURMAND RECENTLY, NOW THEY'RE LOOKING AT BANKRUPTCY!

  SO MY QUESTION IS IS THERE A DEMO FOR LATER VERSIONS OF WINDOWS 7? BECAUSE I NEED OBVIOUSLY BUT XP COMPATIBILITY MODE I WANT TO BE 100% CERTAIN THAT THIS WILL FIX THE PROBLEM OF MY GAMES CRASHING THE SYSTEM WHICH REQUIRES A REBOOT.

  FOR MICROSOFT REAL, JUST HOW GREEDY YOU NEED BE?

  I ARE NOT ELIGIBLE FREE SUPPORT?

  If you buy retail (non OEM) then Microsoft generally taking care for the first two free incidents. Please consult the documentation provided with your copy of Windows 7.

  IS THERE A DEMO FOR LATER VERSIONS OF WINDOWS 7?

  I think that the only DEMO of Windows 7 available currently is approved specifically for the IT professionals. The demo lasts 90 days, but I "think" that Microsoft recommends that you be part of a company to participate. I don't know how they would feel if the average end user participated in the demonstration program.

  I NEED OBVIOUSLY BUT XP COMPATIBILITY MODE I WANT TO BE 100% CERTAIN THAT THIS WILL FIX THE PROBLEM OF MY GAMES CRASH THE SYSTEM

  I don't 'think' the XP COMPATIBILITY MODE in Windows 7 will help you a lot. I "think" it uses Para-virtualization, which is unfortunately too slow for almost all games. I was able to run some software in a virtualized copy of Win XP, but the software was not a lot of resources like computer games is.

  I am surprised that your games break in Windows 7. I run 32 Bit Win XP Pro SP3 here at home, but I have recently built a machine Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit with 4 GB of RAM for my mother and it seems to work. My mother runs a Sims 3 and Sims 1 without problems, but Sims 2 gave here a few rendering problems that I don't think are associated with Windows 7.

  I recommend that players stick with Windows 7. Although there are other available operating systems, Windows 7 is probably the best operating system currently available to players. High compatibility and DirectX 10 + Support + 4 GB of RAM (or more) supported in Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit make Windows 7 a good set of OS. Trust the creators of the XBox of world-class, Super Sidewinder Joystick and high-speed Direct X technology.

  BTW: Now you can upgrade to Windows 7 Home Premium to Windows 7 Pro for only $ 90

  http://store.Microsoft.com/Microsoft/Windows-Anytime-Upgrade-Windows-7-Home-Premium-to-professional/product/C562285E

  Probably upgrade will not make your game better, but it will give you the possibility to have a safer computer.

  Final note:

  I wish Microsoft could release a Version of Visual Studio 2010 Standard... Who doesn't have my feathers ruffled a little because I can't see paying $800 for a compiler...

• Using the auto focus with a tripod

  What is the recommendation for the use of the auto focus with a tripod and remote wireless shutter release?

  It depends on the subject. If autofocus could "fool" by distracting elements (i.e. shooting a bird in a tree where branches could 'steal' the update) and then proceed to the manual. If AF would work pocket so no reason to switch to MF.

  If the lens has Image stabilization to consult the manual of the lens. Some require IS be turned off when on a tripod.

• The image quality with the Canon 5Dmark 2 vs... The 5Dmark3?

  I use Leica lenses on a canon with an adapter body.  Is the image quality with the Canon 5Dmark 2 vs.the 5Dmark3 similar?  A reason to get one against the other?  I like the idea that I can change the viewfinder on the Mk 2 screens. Any overwhelming improvement in the 5Dmark 3 that would justify the review?  Thanks to those who have used the two boxes.

  The main advantage of a Mk3 on the Mk2 is the AF.  Most points and it can focus with f/8.   If your Leica lens is manual focus, then you would not care to this topic.  3 5 has a bit of an advantage in the ISO but not a huge factor.  Another one, I'd say that IQ is the same.

• What is the best lens for a photographer to Starter?

  I am a photographer of starter and have a canon 100 d and was wondering what is the best Starter lens? I like to take pictures of landscapes, buildings, landscapes, people and flowers.

  nadineblakeway wrote:
  I am a photographer of starter and have a canon 100 d and was wondering what is the best Starter lens? I like to take pictures of landscapes, buildings, landscapes, people and flowers.

  A cheap goal, preferably the "kit" lens supplied with your camera. Many self-styled counselors, most of them well-meaning and some of them, the regulars of this group, will tell you to buy the best lens you can afford; the lens is what makes the image; you make an investment in the future; etc. ; etc. Don't listen to them. Once you are no longer a beginner, you will have a better idea of the direction you want to go, and you can use the money you save now to buy a goal of better quality (and perhaps more appropriate) then. And when ask you for advice, you'll have better recognition of that made sense and who is just sitting there and let her fingers wander on the keyboard.

• Should I clean the sensor before mounting the new lens?

  Hello guys! Sorry for stupid question, but I'm not sure I know the correct answer. One of the devices that I use is Canon 5 d classic, and there a lot of dust on the sensor and the viewfinder (not unusual for 5di). I just got a new goal, and I wonder if there is a possibility for the dust on the sensor/viewfinder to get inside the lens while filming? Or I have to clean the viewfinder/sensor before mounting? Or just forget to dust as will evertually get inside the lens of dust? Thank you! I appreciate your answers!

  Good advice so far...

  1. you don't have to worry about the use of your lens on the camera. The goal is pretty well sealed against dust, so all the dust that's in the mirror in the camera box is unlikely to migrate into the lens (it is more likely to migrate on the sensor, but even what is low risk). There is no such thing as completely dust free a lens, anyway. A few grains of dust inside a lens have virtually no effect on the images.

  2. you probably should take advantage of your membership CPS to have the camera, cleaned and checked.

  But you can also learn how to clean yourself. Some call it the classic 5 d a magnet 'dust '... Just, I think he's got a big sensor dust get on and does not have a self-cleaning feature because is on later models. It's going to get dusty again, you can bet. So at least you might want to get a blower bulb ("Rocket Blower" is a brand) and learn to use it.

  You probably already know, seen in the viewfinder of the dust is usually harmless. It is usually on the mirror or on the focus screen and will not be displayed in the images taken with the camera (unless she manages to migrate on the sensor itself, which is hidden and protected behind the shutter with the exception of the brief moment when an image is rendered).

  If the dust seen in the viewfinder appears sharp and in short, it is on the focus screen. If it is fuzzy and blurry, it's on the mirror. Unless you know how and have the right tools for the job, it is not a good idea to give the focus screen and nothing more aggressive than a breath of air from a blower bulb mirror. These can be cleaned more thoroughly, but both are very easily damaged: the screen is optical plastic and can be ruined by using the right type of gasoline on it. The mirror is before coating aluminium vaporized, so is very easily damaged. Aside from an occasional breath of air from a blower bulb, I recommend to leave the mirror screen and concentrate only until you have done a professional cleaning.

  A more serious problem to monitor does not light seals. There are seals foam around the edge of the focus screen, which builds the mirror upward against when it is triggered, to keep stray light out of the box mirror during exposure. Over time, these seals foam begins to degrade and may throw particles or even coat of glue holding them in place on the mirror screen and focus. In general, clean up the damage, remove the old and install new foam gaskets are a little tricky, so I recommend that you have any replacement of the foam seal done by a professional. (Also, there are foam seals similar elsewhere inside the camera that are likely to need replacement too, if the joints in the mirror box go wrong. A pro will know what is needed and have the skills to work deeper inside the camera.)

  Time does not always have to send a camera in for a simple cleaning of the sensor, so it's something that you can learn to do it yourself. There are two sites that discuss good detail: www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com and www.copperhillimages.com. The first is maintained by independent, professional camera repairmen who also are providers of the repair industry and sell most of the specialized tools and supplies needed for the cleaning of the sensor. The second part of the merchant site one of special cleaning procedures ("Copper Hill Method"). Both sites have good information. Read them carefully before performing any cleaning yourself.

  If you decide to learn how to clean the sensor yourself, some things you need to know...

  Never use a q-tip common (i.e., "Q-Tip") inside a camera. They throw cotton fibers that can enter and jam of delicate mechanisms.

  Check the manufacturer's website you plan any liquid sensor cleaning aid is formulated and approved for your particular camera.

  No matter what digital camera that has never had the sensor cleaned almost always need a "wet" cleaning first. This is because there is almost always oils on the sensor (actually in most of the cameras the surface to be cleaned is a filter which covers and protects the sensor). These oils are excess thrown out of the shutter mechanism. Any method of "dry cleaning" that touches the sensor will coat oils and make things worse. If a "wet cleaning" is always advocated, first time around.

  It is important to have some the aircraft batteries fully charged before cleaning and work quickly, so that to be able to hold the mirror up and the door is open doesn't work low allowing the shutter to close and the mirror to fall on a tool used for cleaning. Professional cleaners often use a continuous supply instead of a battery, to be sure.

  It is convenient to have a magnifying glass Magnifier and light any for easy cleaning. When you view the sensor at the front, don't forget that the image is upside down and reversed. Thus, for example, if you have seen a job in the corner upper lefhand of your images, when you view the sensor directly you will find straw incriminated in the lower right corner.

  You usually have a variety of tools to do a multi-step cleaning...

  "Fan bulb cleaning' to blow the free particle outside ("Rocket Blower").

  "Wet cleaning" with approved optical and fluid swabs from cleaning to remove oils and the particles more strongly respected ('Copper Hill method kit', 'Pecs Pads", 'Pécs swabs', 'Eclipse' solution) of sensor cleaning.

  'Adhesive cleaning' using a slightly sticky surface take off slightly adhered particles ('Dust Aid').

  'Cleaning antistatic brush' stubborn Claire, remaining slightly adhered particles and to reduce static electricity that attracts dust ("Arctic Butterfly").

  "Deleting individual speck" with a reusable precision tool ("Speck Grabber").

  "Final Polish" always is a last step to remove the haze left by gasoline ("by LensPen sensor pen"). It also helps to discourage the dust sticks to the surface again.

  I've included a few brand names of the products in parentheses as examples. There may be other equally effective products.

  Most of the time I find myself with several or even all of these when I do a cleaning of the sensor.

  See you soon!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY