A7 and adapters Metabones

Similar Questions

• Cables and adapters

  I know that DVI port on my monitor (W2207h) and the VGA port are analog.

  Now, with that said. If I use a VGA - DVI adapter or vice/verse how that

  convert VGA signal digital digital signal to VGA?  Lets not worry her.

  DVI can also carry as digital analog signals, despite its name. The converter is simply a physical adapter. The monitor and video card pick this up and treats the signal accordingly.

• Power cord power supply and adapters for series nr9700

  I would like to buy a replacement power supply cord and possibly an adapter for my laptop nr9700.  passing by the parts store is quite expensive but I think 11.25 in freight for a power cord is outrageous.213349 - 001 is the part number for the power supply cord and 432309-001 for the adapter.  Is there something else comparable for the power cord?

  I have a wireless connection and want to move the laptop from one room to the other without constantly by unplugging and plugging it in.

  Or you could just buy it here to 63.99 USD (sale today) - includes sector and power cord adapter and it comes with a 1 year warranty.

  Message edited by Kalt 26/12/2008 11:59

• JDBC and adapters

  I wrote the following code on a VINE
  

  OracleDataSource ods = new OracleDataSource();
  ods.setURL("jdbc:oracle:thin:scott/[email protected]:1521/orcl");
  Connection conn = ods.getConnection(); 
  // Check for the existence of a previous customerID
  String selectStmt     = "SELECT * from STEPS " +
       "WHERE (streamID='" + 
       this.customerId +
       "') and (assetid='" + 
       this.eventName +
       "')";    
  Statement stmt  = conn.createStatement();
  //System.out.println("-- calling SELECT");
  //System.out.println(selectStmt);
  ResultSet rs    = stmt.executeQuery(selectStmt);

  It works fine, except that it's slow exceedingling. I send about 20,000 messages to this code.
  
  I think the problem is that I opened the connection whenever I run a select statement (and later an insert statement).
  
  The server instance goes away after the message has been processed, and I can't save the connection.
  
  Using an adapter in the config.xml file would prevent this opening a new connection each time a message calls this code.
  
  If Yes, I've never done JDBC with an adapter and I do not understand how to use an adapter to use a WHERE clause to select variables, since, in the example I've seen so far, it puts 'SELECT 1 from DUAL' in the config.xml file and does not explain how to get mix have the select interact with variables code or better yet how to get your code to get a connection handle.
  
  Could someone please post an exaqmple of how to use an adapter with JDBC and eventually how get your code to access a connection from the config.xml file handle?
  
  Thank you

  Hello

  I recommend you to configure your JDBC driver in the config.XML to the server level. Doing it this way will allow you to benefit from the pooling of connection provided by the application server. Here is an example:

  
  StockDs
  
  
  1
  10
  
  
  JDBC:Derby:
  org.apache.derby.jdbc.EmbeddedDriver
  
  
  databaseName
  DB
  
  
  create
  true
  
  
  
  
  

  Hope that helps.
  Seth White

• Informatica PowerCenter and installing PowerConnect adapters 8.6.1

  Hello
  
  I downloaded below two files to the delivery of oracle site.
  
  "Oracle Business Intelligence Data Warehouse Administration Console 10.1.3.4.1 for Microsoft Windows and Informatica PowerCenter and adapters PowerConnect 8.6.1 for Windows x 86 (64 bit) (part 1 of 2)"
  "Oracle Business Intelligence Data Warehouse Administration Console 10.1.3.4.1 for Microsoft Windows and Informatica PowerCenter and adapters PowerConnect 8.6.1 for Windows x 86 (64 bit) (part 2 of 2)"
  
  To install informatica on machine microsoft windows server 64-bit with 4 GB of ram.
  
  I had 2 forms each download of ZIP files. When I extracted the I had suite of files.
  
  1. dac_win_101341_infa_win_x86_64bit_861.z01-> in part 1
  and 2. dac_win_101341_infa_win_x86_64bit_861.zip-> in part 2
  
  Now, I don't get how I should start the installation?
  
  All pointers in this respect and the entire if possible sequence of steps it would be very useful.
  
  Thank you
  Mahesh

  Follow this link
  http://gerardnico.com/wiki/PowerCenter/installation_861

  If brand pls help

• My iPhone 6 guard making his power on and off loading when it is connected with the MacBook Air early 2015

  Hi Please help me. My iPhone 6 retains what load noise when connected with my MacBook Air early 2015. It makes me crazy! I tried with several real Apple's USB cables, update to the latest iOS (phone and MacBook), updated the iTunes, clean the orifices, everything! I just got this MacBook on the Apple store. Please help me! Thanks in advance!

  Hi mikaelaridz,

  I understand that you just bought a MacBook Air in an Apple store, and when you plug your iPhone 6 in it, you are to hear a sound indicating that the connection does not work.  If your MacBook Air has a port USB - C, you must use the USB - C for Lightning cable to connect your iPhone.

  Using the USB - C port and adapters on your MacBook (retina, 12 inch, early 2015) and later

  Port USB - C

  USB - C is an industry standard generation that allows to load and transfer of video data - while a simple connector. Your MacBook comes with a USB - C port:

  

  Through this port, you can:

  • Charge your MacBook.
  • Power output.
  • Transfer data between your MacBook and other devices.
  • Connect the video output such as HDMI, VGA and DisplayPort.
  • Connect to other technologies, such as Ethernet.

  Port USB - C on your MacBook supports data transfer speeds to up to 5 Gbps (USB 3.1 Gen 1).

  USB - C for Lightning cable

  Apple USB-C for Lightning cable allows you to connect any device equipped with a connector of lightning with your MacBook. It provides data transfer and power of lighting fixtures. For example, you can use this cable to connect your MacBook to these devices:

  • iPhone, iPad and iPod touch
  • Magic Mouse 2
  • Magic keyboard
  • The Magic Trackpad 2

  You can also load these devices without using your MacBook by connecting to the C - USB to the lightning cable and plug the cable of the USB - C 29W power adapter.

  USB - C for Lightning cable supports data transfer at up to 5 Gbps (USB 3.1 Gen 1).

  This cable requires no power to operate. However, devices that you plug into it could draw power from your MacBook, you should unplug it when you're not using it.

  If this isn't the issue, then I suggest taking your new MacBook Air and iPhone at the Apple Storewhere you bought it.  A genius can inspect your computer for you, there is no hardware problems and staff can help you set up.  Here's how Contact Apple and make an appointment.

  Take care

• Tecra A8-> S - VHS-> only black & white TV output and no sound

  I have a laptop Tecra A8 and want to view files DVD or video on TV. Following the construction of connection is currently in use: computer laptop output, S - VHS cable S-VHS (male), female adapter S-VHS or Pushpin to SCART male, female SCART - SCART female, adapter SCART male - male pin, pin x entry-3 TV (audio video and left/right).
  All the settings are in accordance with the manual of data by TOSHIBA. Go into the display properties of the control panel there is now no possibility of change of colouring of television. Full face mask is blocked and pale gray.
  The result is an output on TV than in black & white and without noise.
  Details of the parameters:
  (1) display devices-> multiple views-> clone dual intel->... peripheral translation: TV
  (2) display TV settings-> video standard: PAL_B-> TV, index parameters: color-> not possible to parameters

  Thank you

  Hello Joachim

  Your ad made me really curious, and I did a few tests with my Tecra laptop. A few days ago I bought all together of cables and adapters Audio/video.

  For the test I have connected my Tecra to Sony BRAVA LCD TV. Just to be precise, I used cables and adapters follow:
  -10 m S-Video cable
  S-Video/http://www.nikomp.com.pl/opisy/AY000/AYVCW12N.jpg adapter cinch
  -SCART adapter http://www.lenexpo-electronics.com/e_italy/i/AdattatoreScartSVHS.jpg
  -Adapter audio http://ecommerce.intermediae.it/images/07628G.jpg
  - And of course 10 m cable audio http://www.elderly.com/images/accessories/ACC/CUAD102.jpg

  I tested it using two different options: TV only and extended desktop. I connected all possible combinations and I got the sound and colorful image.

  The important thing is that the image quality is not one that suits and depending on the resolution selected, but its was perfect. Please do not forget to adjust the sound volume on your laptop. If the sound is set on mute or min level you will not hear anything on TV.

  I don't know what TV you have, but I am 100% sure that there is something wrong with the settings of your TV. I can just recommend properly test you and do not forget that the right port on the TV is turned on.

  Good luck!

• I connected a VGA cable and clicked on the option monitor, he did not come on my t v

  VGA?

  I connected a VGA cable and clicked on the option monitor, he did not come on my t, v and the screen is black when I plug cable in the future. How can I get the possibility to save change?

  Perhaps the following links will propose a few ideas:

  How to connect my computer to a TV
  http://hookpctotv.com/

  How to connect your PC to your TV
  http://en.kioskea.NET/FAQ/Sujet-228-how-to-connect-your-PC-to-your-TV-set

  PC to TV cables and adapters
  http://www.SVIDEO.com/PC2TV.html

  Windows Vista-
  Connect your computer to a TV
  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows-Vista/connect-your-computer-to-a-TV

  Windows Vista-
  HDTV: Frequently asked questions
  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows-Vista/HDTV-frequently-asked-questions

  Windows Vista-
  From PC to TV, part 1
  Digital media stream to any room with Windows Media Center and Xbox 360
  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows-Vista/from-PC-to-TV-part-1-stream-digital-media-to-any-room-with-Windows-Media-Center-and-an-Xbox-360

• bottleneck of apparent control "sounds and audio device properties | audio tab | sound

  Lately, this becomes a little more than one gene, to the point where it seems there are already some solution out there : I often want to spend (internet radio or mp3s) music that I send now based Creative Media USB "broadcasting" (home use - audio send anywhere where I could want him in my house)-for a random downloaded video programming.  Video noise must never be sent to the speakers of my monitor-entertainment (although I wouldn't mind if that sound signal should also go through the creative system to other points in the House.)  But it's scary, sometimes I have to play music, to turn on the monitor and sauté with the music of great volume until I can mute or mute the volume.  But it is never necessary for my music be routed to the monitor.

  I drive the monitor via a HDMI cable and adapters changed just after the last of them went wrong, so the new audio software NVIDIA can get complicated this unduly now.  But it seems that the only way for me to join the audio track from any video source given the monitor is to go through the tedious process to navigate to the audio tab and then change the default devices of the Creative device to the NVIDIA device.  If I have already started the video until I realize that I am still set up for music, I have to leave the VCR and the restart before it will route the audio through the HDMI.

  Then of course if I want to stop watching the video source and go back to something with music as a background, I must reverse this procedure as a whole.

  More complicated still is the panic that can ensue when I receive a Skype call - it can be quite EXPLOSION on the monitor speakers.  These levels seem to chronically inadequate because I assume that they share the same slider control as something else (it's still too low volume without be turned up to 11) and are not put to level automatically, or something like that...

  Certainly I'm not the only one annoyed by these audio problems.  What are the solutions are there for these problems?  I would like to be able to choose speakers, based on sources: mp3s and other audio-only stuff would be default to the Creative device, while avi and other video stuff would be only of course exit by default for the NVIDIA card.  Seems kind of obvious... but it does not work like that?

  Hi 808pants,

  You can try to change the settings for the audio mixer Panel to help relieve this problem:

  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows7/adjust-the-sound-level-on-your-computer

  In addition, most programs can be configured to use a specific audio adapter. In the case of Skype, you can check the following link to set up Skype:

  http://www.Skype.com/help/guides/soundsetup_vista.HTML#4

  Note: using third-party software, including hardware drivers can cause serious problems that may prevent your computer from starting properly. Microsoft cannot guarantee that problems resulting from the use of third-party software can be solved. Software using third party is at your own risk.

  Unless the program is designed to specify the audio adapter, the only way that you can choose where will the audio is by setting the audio adapter by default.

  Hope this information is useful.

  Jeremy K
  Microsoft Answers Support Engineer
  Visit our Microsoft answers feedback Forum and let us know what you think.

  If this post can help solve your problem, please click the 'Mark as answer' or 'Useful' at the top of this message. Marking a post as answer, or relatively useful, you help others find the answer more quickly.

• U2410 and MacBook Pro - monitor is just a mismatch?

  I just bought myself a large new Dell U2410 IPS-monitor for my photo editing. But when I plug it into my MacBook Pro (from early 2011) using HDMI it does not work. Or rather; It works the first time, but when that I start again it failed to connect. I have used 4 different sets of HMDI cables (including HDMI adapters for the screen on a Mac port) and am about to go crazy.

  The Apple local store checked the laptop and it seems to work fine. If that doesn't seem to be the problem.

  All my HDMI cables and adapters from port simply cannot all be defective

  And my Dell Panel works quite simply wonderful - when it is connected.

  From what I can tell, it may have something to do with the monitor power saving Mode. It keeps incoming mode PS after only 2-3 seconds, and maybe he just can't connect with the laptop entering sleep. Is it possible that in the can PD mode off of?

  And on a second note; Dell monitors like mine computers Mac is simply a mismatch to avoid I want to develop my setup with a second screen of 24 "and certainly want to avoid similar frustration.

  Thanks for the responses and thoughts to this

  Michael

  Thus the U2410 does not have a DVI cable connected to it, and you pressed the button of the monitor #3 input Source selection and chose HDMI?

  

• Windows 7 does not recognize my 3 Seagate external drives but is very good with Western Digital and other sticks USB Flash. Windows Vista will see them.

  My apologies if this is a query repeatedly, but I can't find a job anywhere and he leads me into the wall.

  I have 3 external Seagate hard drives. All 3 range from about 3 years 11 months old, 1 TB - 3 TB of capacity, and I use them all from time to time to back up my media. In the past months, my Dell XPS ceased to recognize them, 95% of the time. Sometimes they will be Plug and Play and be fine, but otherwise the result when I plug them is coming the power light and the whirring disc fortunately but nothing on the laptop. They recognized themselves on my other machines running Vista. All other Flash memory devices are very good.

  I also have a hard drive Western Digital external powered, almost identical, that Plug and play every time.

  I tried all my ports and various cables and adapters. I tried them on other machines and they are very good, it seems to be just with my Dell and the Seagates. It recognizes everything that I plug in there from the iPhone to Flash Drives. It has all the latest drivers and Windows updates.

  When they're not working, they do not appear in the devices, disk management, Explorer or UVCView Manager. When they do, all settings appear to be well. My laptop runs Windows 7 Edition Home Premium with Service Pack 1.

  I assigned each their own letter drive, disabled power management and they are not protected by Word. The drivers are the standard Windows ones, because these devices do not use their own. I have the latest chipset drivers, everything works perfectly and is completely up to date.

  When I run UVCView (when one of them does not work), it is said there is an error autour MaxPacketSize, current externally is set to 9 and it said "ERROR: low peripheral speed require bMaxPacketSize0 = 8" branded error. I don't know if this is a factor? This may explain why it's slower transfer data to my machine that has USB3.0 it does on another machine, it begins at 130 MB/s and falls to 30 in 10 seconds.

  I tried all combinations of power off.

  I activated the network detection.

  I uninstalled all the USB in the Device Manager and reinstalled after the start.

  All 3 discs work instantly in my older Vista laptop runing.

  I am a loss to understand. I'm pulling my hair out and I don't have a lot to lose these days! There must be a setting in my computer or on the Seagates but I checked all the usual places and some of the more irritable areas.

  Thank you in advance.

  I'm surprised that the removal of the INFCACHE did not work.  Readers (all external references in fact) were cut at the time, right?  With a reboot after and before you plug anything back?
   
  These instructions really come down to:
   
  Unplug all USB devices other than the keyboard and mouse
  Open C:\Windows\System32\DriverStore
  INFCACHE.1 and rename it INFCACHE.old
  Restart the computer
  Reconnect it (one at a time) each USB device - giving the system about 30 seconds per device to 'catch up '.
   
  If you got on the rest as well your system files are good to go.

• IPhone charging 7 question

  Good if for some reason any, my iphone to stop loading, I used different cables and adapters, but the problem persists.

  To load it again I have to move my phone a little and it will start loading again.

  Hello samharl123,

  Please ask questions about your iPhone, recharge here in Apple Support communities. I don't know what I'd do without my iPhone. When I was traveling, I even had to buy a USB multi for my devices charging station, so I understand the importance of the power and portability! The description of your problem, it seems that the lightning cable is not correctly seated.

  Please test this with several cables and let me know the issue seems to occur with different cables as well. If the official Apple cable provided with the iPhone 7 is loose, or does not stay in the right place when you plug it in, and loading stops when (for example), you set it on the bedside table and have to jiggle it or adjust just to make sure, it remains to load or start charging again for you, then the port of loading on the iPhone should be checked by a technician of certified material. You can find a service provider using this link: Apple find locations. There may be other options available, depending on where you are, when you bought your iPhone 7 and the status of your warranty. If you want to ask what options are available to you, please contact an AppleCare Advisor using this link: Contact the Apple Support. I know they will help you professionally and promptly.

  Thanks again for visiting communities Support from Apple. Have a great rest of your day.

• WD My Passport drive external drive will not mount once my Macbook Pro is already on

  Hello

  I actually had this problem for a year or two, but I'm finally getting bugged to this topic enough to see if it can be 'fixed '.

  I have a 2 to WD My Passport portable HD connected to my macbook pro via an external (wall outlet) powered TRUST 5 x USB3 Hub.  If everything is connected, when I start the macbook pro there is no problem and the WD My Passport is mounted in the finder.  But if I remove manually the hard drive and then try to mount it again while the macbook pro is running it doesn't mount not.  It used to, but he won't now.

  In the past the WD My passport would need to unplug and perhaps the USB3 hub would need power cable disconnect from him and the USB hubs out the macbook pro.  So when I joined this new and plugged the hard drive WD in the hub, it would rise very well.  But now it's just point blank refuses to ride until I restart the macbook pro.  Once I restart it it climbs perfectly and stays up forever--until it is dismantled manually - and then I have to restart the macbook pro again so he could mount once more.

  I tried all combinations of pull cables and adapters to power but nothing has worked.  After dismantling the WD hd and plug back on the USB3 light led on the hub hub lights up and the hard drive turns manually, but, as I say, it is not mount and it is not visible in disk utility.

  Any ideas please?  It's a bit annoying to have to keep restarting the mac whenever I had to unplug the hard drive WD.

  "As issued" WD Passport appear to cause a number of reports of trouble around here. You have already taken the first "not best" - using a powered hub. Just make sure that the hub is really power (lights on, for example). It could be that the external drive is in its death throws.

  This happen if the WD is the only thing on the powered hub?

  The Mac USB ports work with other devices?

  Here's what my experience with these things has believing me. WD made great bare discs, but I can't be so kind to their pens. Three questions:

  (1) I think that they should use chipsets which are not very easy to Mac.

  (2) most driving the ship formatted for Windows

  (3) even those shipped as "Mac editions have some odd which makes it difficult to access file formatting.

  If you do not have to share the drive with a Windows computer, you can reformat the drive and that often fixes "fail to mount/recognize" question. Disk utility is your tool of choice here because it is already installed on your Mac. Completely erase the WD drive by selecting the tab 'Clear' in the bar tabs to disk utility. Define the plan of Partition to GUID Partition map and journaled for Mac extended format. Press the button 'clear '. The reader will now will be rid of eccentric WD partitioning and formatting schemes and be a good Mac hard drive.

  If you share the road with a Windows computer, consider getting a better workout. After having fought external drives 'brand' on my computers and others that I maintain, I now use only boxes of other computer world with naked WD drives inside. Since this change, I have zero problems. For my MacBook Pro, I use this forum:

  https://eShop.MacSales.com/item/OWC/MEPMU3ES/

  I ordered the external power optionally for use at home and go on the road bus-powered. It's an empty envelope - just a hard drive of nu. They are more expensive than the stuff that Staples puts on sale every weekend, but are much more reliable. I ask the question. "What is my value data?"

• Third monitor does not work with Eyefinity more

  I am trying to run 3 monitors on my ATI HD 5770

  I have two computers that, for years, have worked with several thin monitors... until very recently.  Through all my updates to the OS, they continued to work.  I don't remember exactly at what time each card has ceased to power its third monitor.  Each of my "third monitors" would come on periodically until they all finally stopped.

  All monitors are working fine as I juggle the cables and adapters each refreshes and lights up but not all at the same time.

  Here's what I have available for troubleshooting.

  I have two Mac Pros below.  (OS 10.11.6) on one and (OS 10.7.5) on the other.

  Each tower has (2) 5770 cards installed that each have a DVI and 2 mini ports.

  So I have a total of (4) cards and is starting the new one that I got on ebay last week.

  I have LG E2350V 23 "monitors (6) and (3) 22" ACER monitors

  All my cables are active and I have several active adapters

  I just bought some passive extra and many very active adapters to the experience and trouble shooting with.

  Thanks in advance for the help and time!

  DisplayPort and its variant electrically identical but small size Mini DisplayPort and the implementation which is a subset of Thunderbolt, any differential use (push-pull) of signals pilot very low voltage. They are MORE immune to noise than old methods because the signal is encoded on the difference between the two signals, not a single signal referenced to a "everybody" on the ground. If possible, you must connect all screens with DisplayPort [full-size] or Mini DisplayPort. These put a lot less load on your system.

  When you convert this very low level signal to an "inherited" display, the map is short of ability to directly signal levels in the car high enough to be recognized after connection of TWO monitors legacy of any kind. If you choose to use a DVI or HDMI port supplied directly, that still counts as one of your two "free" conversions (It is also possible that a very fussy display is moved even earlier).

  All display "legacy" beyond the first two requires ACTIVE description adapters. Adapters ASSETS contain re-drivers of signal and are therefore more expensive than ordinary adapters. Typical prices are of the order of $ 40, but competition has lowered some prices slightly. Mini DisplayPort has a descendant-comparability mode requested by the regular cards, who can get to produce a Single-Link DVI signal to up to 1920 wide, but a regular adapter not pushed the signal levels.

  The Apple Mini DisplayPort to DVI Dual-Link, which is used for DVI displays wider width of 1920, is more complex and expensive and requires extra power beyond all signal re-pilots. This power is usually taken on a tail of pig USB, USB data are generally not used by the adapter, so a different USB power source can be overridden.

• MacBook does not connect to Philips TV with adapter USB - C

  Recently, I bought USB Apple-C (very expensive) adapter for my Macbook from 2016. When I connect the computer to my Philips TV via an HDMI cable, after some initial flicker, I see a stable picture on the TV. The problem is that the hard stable image usually less than one minute. This flickering cycle and temporarily stable image is repeated several times until I have finally get an error message on the TV that says "video Format not supported" and the screen turns white.

  The HDMI cable that I use works perfectly with a Sony laptop connected to the TV even. Adapter USB - C has been also updated after I bought it.

  Someone has the same problem with their TV?

  Hello

  You are able to test it on another TV, with another HDMI cable?

  If it all works, I might suggest to return the adapter HDMI Apple and get another via online service or your dealer.

  Using the USB - C port and adapters on your MacBook (retina, 12 inch, early 2015) and later - Apple Support