Camera.h - Autofocus assist light

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• Need a camera that will take excellent shots of ROOM so I can sell them on eBay. Suggestions?

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  Donnie, here are some examples (and if please exuse the bad lighting and color - balance they were thrown together quickly for demo purposes)

  Here are a couple of sterling pieces to show what is happening with the lens.

  This image was taken with a Canon 5 d IS of III using a Canon EF 100 mm f/2.8 L Macro USM lens.  The target was set to f/8 for this exhibition.

  f/8 would normally provide a decent depth of field... but look what is happening with this image:

  

  Note that the central area of the room on the right focus, but but the front and the rear edge are blurred... and this is at f/8 - keep that in mind.

  I wrapped a piece of tape around the ring on the lens.  I have worn to the front edge of the room closely and used a marker to mark this position.  I've then adjusted to the rear edge of the piece of far and who scored as well.

  Then I took a series of exhibitions of the brand front focus up to the mark of development back tweaking the lens very slightly between each exposure.   A total of 10 exhibitions have been taken.

  I then used the software stack of development (in this case, I used ability to 'Merge photos' of Photoshop) by merging pictures of 10, the result is this picture:

  

  Look closely and you will see the office near foreground and distant background are still unclear, but coins are sharp from front to back.  Actually I need more images.  This can be done very gently tweaking focus between each exosure or using a "rail"focus"(a track - like device that you put on a tripod and then mount the camera on the rail and move it toward the front of the camera, any backward or forward for an amount you can control for macro focus pictures with focus stacking).

  It's a lens 100mm macro on a full body frame (and frankly I could have been much closer with this goal), but with a body of cultures-APS - C frame (as any '' rebels '' or mid-range model) the EF-S 60 mm macro would have provided a very similar angle of view.

  The SX50 HS and SX510 seem to be good in the point minimum distances... so that they are able to achieve the desired results, but regardless of the camera, I suspect you will need to emphasis of stacking for good results (I used Photoshop, but there are many applications that can do including applications that are designed specifically for the update macro photo stacking.)

  These images are reduced for display on the web, but the originals are absolutely sharpness and you can look at every surface texture.

• Canon 6 d light leak problem?

  Anyone has any idea what this is all about?

  https://www.Facebook.com/photo.php?v=10153703965930366

  Here is a timelapse I did today with my 6 d but obviously something is not majorly. Should I send it to Canon? Someone at - it a similar problem?

  Normally, whenever your eye does not cover the viewfinder, you would cover the viewfinder to prevent light leaks through the pentaprism.  Canon usually provides a small rubber plug that you attach to the Canon neck strap.  Remove you the eyecup and slide the CAP in its place (press the sides where the eyecup has rubber grip ridges and drag upwards - some of my organs, you don't have to press, he'll just slide up - but I don't own a 6 d).

  But I was reading the comments on your post facebook - if I understand, you said the following:

  • you get the problem with three different lenses - probably isn't a matter of lenses
  • you have tried to completely cover the camera to block all light - it probably not leak in the viewfinder (btw, even if it was a leak through the viewfinder, which is not a default... all SLR cameras can do and that's why they give you the viewfinder cover.)

  You also showed a photo of the inside of the camera... you mentioned something about 'Hung', but unfortunately the shot was blurry, I couldn't see what was "hanging down.

  I can tell you that this is certainly NOT the shutter.  The camera has a shutter of focal plane with two "curtains" that move vertically.  If a trigger bit you had notice suddenly was unevenly lit being very dark everything at the top or at the bottom of the image ("Curtain" service is experiencing a problem) - but your question is a bright spot about 3/4 of the way on the right side and ends in.

  It could be something to "hang" and catch a reflection which at this place.

  On the inside of the camera, there is a replaceable glass by the user above the mirror.  When you use the viewfinder, the mirror is in position 'low '.  In this position, the light is bounced upward and on the frosted glass (you can view this as a rear projection screen.  When you look through the viewfinder of the camera, you actually see the frosted glass.

  The frosted glass is a framework or a tray that is hinged at the rear.  Normally that hinge never moves (the only time where it would move is when you open it to swap the glass.)  If the bin is not completely closed, it is possible the mirror isn't entirely swing clear (it would hit the status bar that keeps the screen in place.)

  Before going further, it's easy to scratch the ground glass and since it is a textured surface (for example, the frosted glass) it is important that you do NOT touch.  Canon actually provides a tiny tool when you buy a replacement screen so that you can open and close the drawer share screens - all of this without ever touching the screen (it looks like a pair of tweezers with a hook on the end).   Canon has replacement with different options screens, and models as well as original replacement screens if you damage your (they cost about $30).

  It may be wiser to watch a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNwOr3g9gzA

  I used this video because it is for a 6 d specifically.  But the process is the same on many other models with CELS replaceable - so if you don't see it enough in detail, just look for other videos on how to share a screen of the development of the Canon.  While the screens are not the same between models, the basic concept of this image that keeps the screen is the same.

  BTW... does not by showing how to swap the screen up to 4 minutes into this video, in case you want to fast forward.

  I heard of cases where the screen update tray was not completely closed and it makes a bit of a problem.  The good news is that it is a remedy very simple just close the door.  It snaps closed.  The tab in the top-center is the output of the gate.  Normally to open the door you gently pull the tab toward you (you pull it gently) and it releases the tray so that it can swing down.    Once again... Avoid touching the screen with your fingers.  In the absense of the right tool, a Lint of _very_ clean cloth can be used.  Just push the status bar (do not press the screen... just the edge where you see the tab) until you hear a click in.