Corsair Vengeance K60 Gaming Keyboard

Similar Questions

• Microsoft Reclusa Gaming Keyboard 104Key

  My keyboard kept if you type 'mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm' by itself. I had jumped in and then clean it already... is this a software problem?

  Hello

  ·         What operating system do you use?

  ·         Did you try to connect the keyboard to a different USB port and check if it works?

  ·         Were there recent hardware or changes to the software on the computer before the show?

  Method 1:

  I suggest to use on-screen keyboard and check if you are facing a similar question.

  Type without using the keyboard (on-screen keyboard)

  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows7/type-without-using-the-keyboard-on-screen-keyboard

  Method 2:

  Try to connect and disconnect the keyboard and check, follow these steps:

  (a) shut down the computer.

  (b) connect your device to the appropriate port. Make sure that the plug is pushed firmly into the connector on the computer.

  (c) restart the computer. Microsoft Windows detects the change, and then installs the drivers on the new port automatically.

  If the problem persists, try to connect the keyboard to a different computer. If the keyboard works correctly on another computer, the port to which the keyboard was connected on the original computer may be damaged. If this is the case, contact the Microsoft Hardware support:

  http://www.Microsoft.com/hardware/en-us/support/contact-us

• HP Pavilion 15-AK007TX Gaming: M.2 & Upgrade RAM SSD

  Hello

  I'm looking to add M.2 SSD and max out my RAM from 4 GB to 16 GB, looking for guidance on the compatibility-

  M.2 SSD

  https://www.flipkart.com/Samsung-m-2-series-250-GB-laptop-internal-hard-drive-SSD-SATA-MZ-n5e250bw/p...

  http://www.Amazon.in/crucial-MX300-275GB-internal-solid/DP/B01IAGSDJ0/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8 & qid = 147601...

  RAM-

  http://www.Amazon.in/Corsair-vengeance-PC3-15000-CMSX8GX3M2B1866C10-notebook/DP/B00EQ1PG9E/ref=sr_1 _...

  Thanks in advance.

  HP has not even acknowledged or explained the question to the VAS is therefore no help at all. You can try the drive m2; a few people have reported success.

  http://h30434.www3.HP.com/T5/notebook-hardware-and-upgrade-questions/M-2-SSD-upgrade/TD-p/5430616/highlight/true/page/14

  Your best bet is greater capacity of 2.5-inch SSD. 1TBs aren't terribly expensive now.

• New Gaming computer doesn't let Me scroll

  Then last Sunday (19/06/2016), I finished a few computer games of project office and used the operating system Windows 7 Professional. My current problem is that I can't use the scroll function of the scroll wheel on a mouse that I hang in there. Mainly, I am using a Cooler Master CMStorm Devastator gaming keyboard / mouse, with the lighting of the led on the mouse and the keyboard. My other mouse is a logitech wireless that I use on my old laptop. It works on the laptop as the gaming mouse. But it does not work on my new Tower. I can focus click and move the mouse so that it can page up and down on google chrome, but that doesn't help me in video games that almost require the need for scrolling. I can provide more information on request if necessary.

  UPDATE: it turns out that that was the issue. I decided to look for the drivers by going to the manufacturer of my motherboard (in this case gigabyte GA-170XP SLI Motherboard) and found the drivers for the USB 3.0 controllers. He stops my usb for some ports, even if it has been updated but after 10 minutes all came back and my scroll wheel works perfectly. Thank you for your help Singh Sarandeep.

• Logitech G13 Advanced Gaming Pad - touch working__

  I have a Logitech G13 Advanced Gaming Keyboard - it worked fine under Vista but since I have upgraded to Windows 7 Ultimate, it does not work. I went to the site of Logitech and downloaded the latest driver. The display part works, but the keys are not. I unplugged and put the USB in a different location - which does not either. I spoke with the support of Logitech, and they could not understand either. I ran the driver update with and it came back saying that I got the latest driver.  I play COD2 and COD WAW - the keyboard is important to me. so, what is the problem and how to fix it?  Thank you

  Hurrah... Hurrah - tonight I was able to solve my problem.  I uninstalled the Logitech software, rebooted my machine without connecting the G13. I then plugged in the USB port, made a click right on the driver software and select run as administrator. The software, installed on the G13 display showed that he agreed the profile, the keys work now - boy, I'm happy. It was frustrating not being able to use the keyboard, it is amazing how much used you to something and then when you don't have it it is really bad. Thanks for the suggestions. Hope this helps other people if they have the same problem.

• All USB keyboard has stopped working

  Hello

  All USB keyboards have stopped working on my installation of windows 7. They work fine in the BIOS or on my Ubuntu installation. When I plug a keyboard, it still gives an error code 29 (drivers not found). I tried using two keyboards: a Logitech Gaming Keyboard G105 and a fairly generic wireless keyboard (a dongle to connect to the computer).

  I tried to uninstall it from the Device Manager and plug or restarted again, but the result is the same. Windows Update cannot find driver updates, and a system repair disc doesn't detect any problems. I temporarily created a fresh install of windows 7, which recognizes the keyboards very well. There is no driver available manufacturer (attempt to all keyboards are supposed to use the base drivers), and the keyboard Logitech gaming software does not see that it is there. 'Control Panel-> devices and printers' keyboards of lists of names, but the shows not even the stuff of work that is just under the Device Manager and the problem-solving the tent and is unable to find the drivers again. Try to select the driver HID keyboard in the Device Manager just in fact give the code 10 error (device does not start) instead.
  Nothing I've tried has gotten me anywhere. I would rather not re-install Windows 7, like all the time and effort to get my system how do I like it took me forever, but I can't see how I solve this problem. Any help would be appreciated.
  Thank you
  Zoden

  There is a good chance a "repair" install will fix the problem as a "repair" install should re-create any missing or corrupt driver installation file.

  I don't see anything definitive where observer records but can provide you with the following file, which can provide more specific information:

  C:\Windows\inf\setupapi.dev.log

• Cursor does not move on Trackpad by pressing the keyboard

  * Original title: Gaming/Keyboard and mouse

  I have a lenovo yoga 2 with windows 8. But I play games online and it took me a minute to notice but the cursor won't move on the pavement while I hold down a key on the keyboard. I can't seem to find anything that helps or applys t this specific system. Please help I would like to solve this problem

  Hello

   
  Thanks for posting your query in Microsoft Community.
   
  According to the description of the problem, I understand that the slider on the trackpad will not move while holding the key on the keyboard.
   
  I suggest you follow the steps below to disable the check of palm and check if it helps:
  
  Follow these steps to disable PalmCheck:
   

  a. in the start menu, type Control Panel
  b. Select Control Panel
  c. If not already enabled select view by: large icons
  d. Select mouse
  e. Select the device settings tab
  f. Select Settings button
  g. Double click option Pointing to expand the list
  h. Select PalmCheck and double click on it and set it to 0.
  i. apply the setting.

  Hope this information helps, just reply to the State of the question for assistance, we will be happy to help you.

• When the power settings are on anything except power save speakers make a hissing sound

  so when I have my power options in Control Panel on high performance, I hear a whistling electric survey noise, when I change balanced lights quieter then be able to save his almost silent but I hear it again, I tried several headphones and speakers, and it happens again, then this action solves the problem, I have a custom high-performance pc that I play games on I don't want to restrict my gaming experience.

  is there one solution other than to put it on energy conservation? I also tried different volumes and I cut the sound, it still happens...
  Specifications of the PC:

  i5 3570 k to 3.8 ghz (with corsair h60 and low times that does not cause an accident)
  GTX 660 / 3 gb (no OC'ed)
  8 gb corsair vengeance 1600 mhz RAM (not OC'ed)
  Corsair PSU tx650m
  seagate Barracuda 1 TB 7200 RPM
  Z77 g41 mobo MSI

  120 GB sandisk ssd drive

  Hi George,.

  ·         What type of port is the wired mouse?

  ·         Are you using wireless or wired mouse?

  It seems to be your USB controller in the PC pick it up or interference. Cut everything on the Volume control and bring them both to see if you can narrow the problem down to a specific entry.

  Try to connect the mouse to another USB port. Remove any external device connected to the computer except keyboard and mouse and check.

  Uninstall and reinstall the latest drivers of sound card on the manufacturer's Web site and check if it helps.

  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-in/Windows/Update-driver-hardware-ISN

  Hope this helps

• W530 RAM questions

  Just got my W530. I ordered with 4 GB RAM installed factory and bought 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance separately. I installed the extra RAM in the slots for easy access on the bottom. The computer recognizes all 20 GB.

  I hesitate to pull on the keyboard to remove the RAM installed in the factory, if I do not. So, question #1, I pay a performance penalty in the current configuration? Memory access would be faster if I shot the 4 GB?

  Question #2, most everything I read online leads me to believe, there are two SO-DIMM slots under the keyboard, but the designs in the maintenance manual do appear there is only one slot there. Are there four SO-DIMM total locations in the W530? I ask because if I go to the trouble of pulling the keyboard to switch to the RAM, I'd be inclined to mix in an another 2x8GB, while I have it apart. I currently have no use for a lot of RAM, but it is so cheap right now, there is little reason don't not install it if I took the trouble to remove the keyboard.

  Carcozep wrote:

  One thing. You should be aware. Never put 1 or 3 bars of memory RAM. Yes, it's a good topic and a guide as to where to mount the RAM SO-DIMM so that you have two-channel should as lack of Dual Channel will be more successful than the frequency of the memory

  New Intel processors have a work around for this type of childcare channel in operation with 3 branches. It is not quite true dual-channel mode however because it uses a hack to achieve this. In any case, you only want to use the modules that are of the same brand/model of your machine. This ensures that they all the same exact specification. Running modules in a system often leads to blue screens that cannot be solved without removing some of the RAM.

• 8.1 Windows 64-bit OEM DVD in a LG BH10LS30 Blu - ray re-writer not be recognized?

  My current Situation:

  -Newly complete integrated PC

  -J' have Set priority #1 into the optical drive of CD/DVD/BD LG from startup in the BIOS

  -J' I insert a version full of 8.1 Windows 64-bit OEM (DVD) in the optical drive LG

  -Reboot... and system always asked for the bootable media must be inserted!

  The drive will work in other fully functional PC

  But is it my system which is not favourable to 8.1 Windows or is it completely else?

  My material in cases:

  Motherboard: MSI Z87 - G43 Gaming

  CPU: Intel i3-4130 3.4 Ghz

  Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8 GB (2x4gb)

  GPU: Asus NVidia GeForce GT 630

  Storage: Corsair Pro Series 120 GB SSD

  Power supply: Antec 850w

  and the optical drive: LG BH10LS30 Blu - ray re-writer

  Hi Wattz1994,

  I don't know if it's the DVD or the disc, but not past obviously something. You seem to have everything set up correctly.

  The next thing I would try is loading Windows 8 from a flash drive.

• Performance issues when coming out of sleep

  I recently built a gaming PC. On Christmas day, I finished putting the thing together. It has an Intel i7-4790 CPU running Intel HD Graphics, 8 GB of Corsair Vengeance RAM, an Asus Z97 - A Mobo and a 2 terabyte Seagate HDD. I installed Windows and put everything in place. Then a week later, my MSI GTX 970 arrived in the mail.

  So, I take the thing to sleep and decreases the performance of the whole thing. Videos YouTube stutter, simple as games fight of World of Tanks to run at its usual rate of 60 fps. To avoid this, I simply restart my comp and then it works fine. performance is back to normal.

  A few weeks, Windows gave me a message on one of the Nvidia drivers causing performance issues when you wake up from sleep. I don't think a lot of it and rejected it. I'll try to reinstall all my Nvidia drivers. I uninstall the Intel HD graphics driver a few days ago and has not changed anything. I would appreciate an answer to this problem because I would like to continue to use the "sleep mode" because it consumes less energy and prolongs the life of my case of LED. Thank you!

  In order to diagnose your problem, we need run Windows performance toolkit, the instructions that are in this wiki

  If you have any questions do not hesitate to ask

  
  

  Please run the trace when you encounter the problem

• All games freezing randomly without crashing

  When any game it freezes / crashes after a while seemingly random. everything just hangs and forces me to make a discount to zero manually. I tried to reinstall windows and perform a clean boot. None of which worked.

  I ran prime95, furmark and chkdsk to confirm that my CPU, GPU and the disks work.

  giving to sfc/scannow doesn't hint at something is wrong.

  I don't get a "blahblah.exe has stopped responding" either as the whole PC crashes just, nor make a crashdump because I don't get a BSOD.

  what I suspect now is that my CPU might be overheating, as I played the same games on this PC before and it's 60 ° C when I'm not playing.

  Intel i5 - 3570K @3. 40 GHz

  NVIDIA GeForce GTX 670

  corsair vengeance 2 x 4 gigabytes LP

  POWER SUPPLY 750W

  EDIT: finally got a minidump BSOD I'll download it file.

  Oops - you had already run sfcscannow. Forgotten that when the liquidation of my OP.

  Also, I confused the 60 C at idle with the gpu.

  The processor is running too hot. 95B is close protection thermal cut off during an i5 3570 and will shorten the service life of the processor.

  Mine rarely goes over 65 - 70 c at full load, even with high ambient air temperatures.

  60 c at idle is too high for a time slowed down on cpu or gpu. This may indicate poor

  airflow in your case.

  Take the side panel turn off your machine and run a fan in the case (or not) and the time

  should fall if high temperatures are due to poor circulation of air in the case.

  If they do not fall, reapply new thermal paste for the cpu can help, but an aftermarket cooler

  would also be a good addition, if you are not already using one.

  It is also possible that the speed profile of the fan for the cpu and the gpu are too shallow (assuming that you are not running

  the fan to the cpu at 100% all the time), but this cause normally only fan speeds for up and down a lot and should not result in a heat block. When you are not running the cpu at 100% fan, using a fan speed profile steep is recommended with a gaming machine, anyway.

  From a fan profile approximately 50 + % and bump the speed a little will it keep cooler processors of the appearance and helps keep the fan accelerates cycling continuously up to 100% and down to a lower speed, as often happens with factory fan speed profiles. A good cooler and a profile of fan speed should keep the processor under the temp that requires 100% fan speed.

  "I removed one of my RAM sticks and it seems to solve my problems, I want a little my 8 gigs of RAM.

  Have you run memtest on the sticks individually to determine if one is the culprit? Maybe the one you

  deleted?

  Are the two poles of a corresponding factory kit, or did you just recently installed the second stick?

  If the later, make them two sticks have exactly the same features?

  Have you changed your RAM settings in the BIOS, or through a program of OC'ing?

  -You can also try to use the other pair of RAM slots to check if one of the slots that you are currently using is failing.

  «Concerning the repair of the configuration of starting windows...» »

  Yes, just to pass on what little I've read on this particular file and the error. It's probably not

  the source in this case, but it's patches that we do not try may come back on us.  ;)

  Boot sectors become corrupted for various reasons. Imaging of your operating system to a new HARD drive,

  or reinstall Windows are just two examples.

  .

• Microsoft Sidewinder x 4 key changes randomly commands

  Hello
  I have a Microsoft Sidewinder x 4 keyboard I've used for about 2 months. Recently, I found that it will start to change 'modes' for no apparent reason during the games I play. It happened during web browsing in Google Chrome, in Skyrim, Guild Wars 2 and typing in Microsoft Word. Instead of typing the letter I'm pressing, it will open a shortcut (as "d" will minimize a window, 'r' shoots to the top of the dialog box run, etc.).
  I checked to make sure no keys were blocked (CTRL, ALT, Windows key) and is not the issue. I also checked to make sure that the drivers for the keyboard are updated. They are.
  This is a persistent problem and the only way I can solve it to type normally when this happens is to restart the entire computer. I used a different keyboard with this computer and have never had this problem. I think the keyboard is maybe defective. Apart from that, I love this keyboard.
  I am running Windows 7 64-bit, i5 2500 k CPU, MoBo Extreme3 of ASRock Gen3, Corsair Force GT 120 GB SSD, Corsair Vengeance LP DDR3 1600 8 GB, EVGA GTX 560ti 448 classified Core Ultra

  I just discovered that if you go to the center of the mouse and windows of your game key Microsoft keyboard switch (or active) of the Bank active, then off and the problem should be solved. This happened to me probably 8 times now, I've just now figured this out on my own after countless internet searches.

• Performance while playing games problems

  Original title: stuttering problems in games that also affects the office.

  OK, so I've had this problem for a little while and for the life of me, I can't identify its cause. I noticed it about 2 months ago. During the game Saints Row 4, I noticed that this stuttering took place every now and then. Essentially, the game is very, very smooth, but it would start this weird stuttering suddenly and would last for a random time. Stuttering would occur at an almost exact frequency of every half second. When you turn the view quickly, this would make the scene jump forward as if there is lack of images for animation. I alt-tab out and back in the game, which seemed to fix it, but I was wrong on this issue. This was not a fire that difficulty, as it worked only sometimes. I assumed that the alt - tab solution may just be a coincidence. Also, sometimes I can play for hours and never see this stuttering, it's completely random when it happens. Initially, I thought it was the game, but as the days went on, I noticed it popping up in just about every game I play. I thought at first it was only using direct3d games, but I started noticing every game, even the 2d games.

  Another problem with this is, I alt tabs on a game, pulled up to see if all processes have been hitting the cpu and noticed stuttering when I re-size the window Task Manager. So I kept stretching the sides of the window back and noticed that stuttering is present on my desktop. After being on the desktop for a while, it seems to stop, how can I return to the game and play for free, for a random period of stuttering.

  I saw no process hogging the CPU on the performance tab, and the ram usage was normal. Did not notice the spikes, either, other than stuttering of weird window. I tried many things to solve this problem and many have sought a forum on stuttering, nothing helps. So far I've updated map mother drivers (including my sound chipset), rolled drivers on my video card after their update without any positive result, ran memtestx86 to rule out the possibility of problems with ram, tried different usb ports, thinking they are defective, ran programs to check the temperature of cpu and gpu (who contributed the most to 45 and 68(c) respectively), tried to launch games from a different hard disk, open my file and pulled out my video card, all dusted off and put the card in a different PCIe slot, ran malwarebytes to remove malware running in the background, disabled startup items not vital and maybe a few other things that I don't remember, right now. Long story short, I was not able to find the problem.

  I've seen people say all sorts of things, like disable the speedstep and other energy saving features, but I've also seen people try to demystify these solutions. I've always had has permitted, for almost 2 years now, so if that was the cause, I guess I would have noticed it before now. The problem with not knowing what is causing it is, it makes it difficult to reproduce the problem. Most of the time, I have to wait awhile, after trying a solution given, only to discover that stuttering is still there. It is not a performance issue. I know what bad performance in PC games, and it's something totally different. My PC runs beautifully, until this stuttering starts. Game demanding resource or not, it is present in everything that once it starts, even the office. Definitely seems to be triggered by the game, however, which leads me to believe that I can just have a problem with my gpu hardware. I have another video card I could put in there and will probably be the next day or two, but it is so old I probably would not be able to tell if I get stutters or general bad performance.

  As I said, a game can be run for hours, silky or it could immediately start stuttering, it is very random. If anyone has an idea of what I could try, your help would be greatly appreciated. I'd love to understand this, before I begin to buy new hardware or reinstall my OS, as I have very bad internet and download updates and games would be an absolute nightmare. Thank you very much for your time and congratulations, if you have done throughout this post.

  My specs are:

  Windows 7 64-bit family

  Intel Corei7 3820 @3. 6 ghz

  ASUS P9X79 Deluxe MB

  16 GB ram Corsair Vengeance

  EVGA GTX680 Sc + (2 GB)

  Samsung 840, 250 GB SSD (OS disk)

  2 x 1 TB hard drives Western Digital (games and storage)

  Corsair H100i liquid cooling

  Corsair TX850m PSU (850 watt)

  Optical mouse Logitech MX518 wired (usb)

  Keyboard game steel series (usb)

  Holy *, man, sacred *. I think that I found the solution, or at least I hope. It kinda makes me crazy, everything that makes me happy. He just started stuttering in a game and for some strange reason, I decided to join the back of my monitor and wiggle it's cable and stuttering instantly went away. I wonder if the solution is as simple as a cable, or maybe true DVI port on my monitor. Man I hope so. It could very well be a coincidence, but it stopped immediately after wiggling the cable. Hoping that I found it! : DDD

• BSOD after copying the large number of files from one disk to another

  Hello. I hope you can help because this issue is very frustrating. Just built a new PC:
  -Gigabyte Z97X Gaming 7 mobo
  -8 GB Corsair vengeance 1866 mhz
  -EVGA GTX 770 video
  -CPU Intel 4770K
  -two hard drives of 1 TB WD black in RAID 1
  -one ADATA 256 Gb SSD as drive OS
  -a 1 TB drive Toshiba
  -Windows 7 64-bit professional
  -F3 Bios Rev

  System can work very well for everyday, but when I copy large number of files from one disk to another (i.e. 70 000 files, 80 GB), shortly after (10 to 30 minutes), I get a BSOD bugcheck.

  I ran MEMTEST86 for hours without error. I can run PRIME95 with max heat without error. And as I said, it seems to be fine until I do a copy of large files. It seems not to matter to this disc, I copy to/from. Start WIndows, I see no activity CHKDISK. Ideas?

  Log name: System
  Source: Microsoft-Windows-WER-SystemErrorReporting
  Date: 25/06/2014 19:55:50
  Event ID: 1001
  Task category: no
  Level: error
  Keywords: Classic
  User: n/a
  Computer: Daddys-PC
  Description:
  The computer was restarted after a bugcheck.  The bugcheck was: 00000124 0 x (0 x 0000000000000000, 0xfffffa8008788028, 0x00000000bf800000, 0 x 0000000000200401). A dump was saved in the: C:\Windows\MEMORY. DMP. Report ID: 062514-6692-01.
  The event XML:
  
   
     
      1001
      0
      2
      0
      0
      0 x 80000000000000
     
      32358
     
     
      System
      Daddys-PC
     
   
   
      0 x 00000124 (0 x 0000000000000000, 0xfffffa8008788028, 0x00000000bf800000, 0 x 0000000000200401)
      C:\Windows\MEMORY. DMP
      062514-6692-01
   
  

  No problem, thank you!

  All attached files of the DMP are the verification of bug WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR (124) .

  A fatal hardware error occurred. This fatal error data error Architecture WHEA (Windows Hardware).

  If we run one! errrec on the 2nd parameter of the bug check (address of the WER structure), we get the following:

  ===============================================================================
  Section 2: x 86 / x 64 MCA
  -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Descriptor of @ fffffa8008788138
  Article @ fffffa80087882c0
  Shift: 664
  Length: 264
  Flags: 0x00000000
  Gravity: Fatal

  Error: Internal unclassified (Proc 4 row 1)
  Status: 0xbf80000000200401
  Address: 0x00000000fee00040
  Misc.       : 0 x 0000000000000086

  Internal unclassified error, this implies that it is not publicly documented and there is no way to identify the error.

  -----------------------------------------

  1. AppleCharger.sys is listed and charged, which is the driver GIGABYTE on / off Charge. See here for more information - http://www.gigabyte.us/MicroSite/185/on-off-charge.htm

  Very annoying software, so please uninstall ASAP!

  2 remove and replace Norton with Microsoft Security Essentials for purposes of troubleshooting temporary, as it can be at the origin of the conflict:

  Removal of Norton- https://support.Norton.com/SP/en/us/home/current/solutions/kb20080710133834EN_EndUserProfile_en_us;JSESSIONID=841A6D40BA6872C47697C6C6B19C8E11.4?entsrc=redirect_pubweb&PVID=f-home

  -MSE http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows/Security-Essentials-download 

  3 uninstall Gigabyte Saver Easy, Easy Tune, as well as all the another bloatware Gigabyte, it is very problematic.

  4.

  2: kd > lmvm marvinbus64
  start end module name
  fffff880' 04c 51000 fffff880'04 c 95000 MarvinBus64 (postponed)
  Image path: \SystemRoot\system32\DRIVERS\MarvinBus64.sys
  Image name: MarvinBus64.sys
  Timestamp: Fri Sep 23 17:17:03 2005

  Pinnacle Studio Marvin Bus driver, dated 2005. Too old to work with the operating system, so please delete the software + the device (if any).

  5 please remove your Rainbow Tech/SafeNet USB security device if there is no update for its software, device drivers are too old.

  -----------------------------------------

  If all else fails, there's only so much you can do with an error like this, checking until it boils down to a faulty processor that needs to be replaced. Start from 1 and work down:

  1. make sure your temperatures are the norm and nothing is overheating. You can use a program such as Speccy if you want to monitor the time - http://www.piriform.com/speccy

  2 clear your CMOS (or optimized load BIOS default) to ensure that there is no parameter incorrect BIOS - http://pcsupport.about.com/od/fixtheproblem/tp/clearcmos.htm

  3. make sure that your BIOS is up to date.

  4 if all else fails, the only one left to do is replace your CPU because it is defective.

  Kind regards

  Patrick