Grainy images

Similar Questions

• video and grainy images

  I recently started to use the camera on my Lenovo PC's Yoga and the images and the video several times not to go out grainy. Is there a solution to create clearer images and videos?

  I recently started to use the camera on my Lenovo PC's Yoga and the images and the video several times not to go out grainy. Is there a solution to create clearer images and videos?

  =======================================
  I assume you mean a webcam? There are opportunities
  It's a low resolution camera and there is not much
  you could do to improve.

  Granular can also result in low light environments.

  Also, I suspect that the camera has a lens made of plastic
  and they are not as sharp as a glass of good quality lens.

  The following discussion seems to be the same camera
  you make reference to:

  Problems of quality of camera video yoga 13
  http://forums.Lenovo.com/T5/IdeaPad-IdeaTab-Slate-tablets/Yoga-13-video-camera-quality-issues/TD-p/991189

• Why are all my new really grainy images?

  It just started a few weeks ago - every image I opened is supper full of noise or grainy. Can anyone help with this?  I use a PC with Windows 8.1 and Photoshop CC 2014 2.2 - my system has 10gigs or RAM and a Nvidia GeForce GT 620/PCI graphics accelerator - in contingent ram preferences are set at 70% of the use.

  Thank you

  Hi 12first

  Please upgrade to the latest version of Photoshop.

  • Make sure that the Cache level is set to 4 in Photoshop > preferences > Performance

  Once done restart Photoshop

  Open another image in Photoshop and check

  • At what Zoom % that you look at the picture and what is the sixe, Format image?

  Concerning

  ~Assani

• Combining clips from several cameras and grainy images

  I'm sure it's something completely basic as I am a noob to first bit, but I can't find an answer... I hope that someone here has a easy or can point me in the right direction...

  I work on a timeline for trying to learn the basics of creating personal video.

  I try to combine video from a family event turned on 2 different cameras, one a digital camera that shot the video in 1920 x 1080 and 23.976 fps,.

  and the other, my iPhone 4 at 1280 x 720 and 24 fps

  I install my project at 1280 x 720, the size of my video iPhone and am reduce the other images to this size.

  I also chose a time base of 23.976 seconds for the sequence.

  Now, whenever my calendar hits the iPhone images, he plays really grainy and pixelated.

  I thought that maybe it's the framerate and tried to interpret images on images from iPhone (24 fps), to 23.976, but that did not fix it.

  Anyone has another idea why this might be happening?

  And if it's something completely Basic, do not hesitate to give me a kick in the ass and tell me to go back to Flash and Photoshop... but any help would be appreciated ~

  Thank you very much!!!

  Right click on the program monitor > reading resolution > full. It is probably defaulting to 1/2, which causes some funky stuff to happen with compression inter-field footage.

• Satellite L450 - Webcam picture is grainy and dark

  I don't know if it's the web cam this model isn't very good but the web cam is very grainy and dark. I tried to play all usual with the settings but nothing enhances the i.e. lack, grainy image of any color and just generally poor and the laptop is brand new.

  If anyone has a good clear picture please let me know seems a shame because I'm happy with the rest of the system.

  Thanks in advance

  Hello

  Just a question: have you tried that?
  => [How to change the settings for the built-in webcam If the image is very dark or black | http://forums.computers.toshiba-europe.com/forums/ann.jspa?annID=59]

  If it doesn t work I would try to update the driver for the webcam. Just check the Web from Toshiba website for an update and install it.

  http://EU.computers.Toshiba-Europe.com > support & downloads > download drivers

• Grainy photos in slideshow PrE 11 when burning on DVD. I have read many topics, but still persists. Help, please.

  Well, the title says pretty much all this. I have a question about the grainy images.

  First of all, let me give a brief introduction on what kind of project we are dealing with here. As I read these forums for hours for the last few days I already have a good understanding of what is important, so more details below.

  Introduction:

  Video editing has started to become a real hobby. I learned to change using Pinnacle studio, but many bugs and flow forced me to try something else. Adobe for me is "the real deal" and only learn to use a program as before by right! So for this project I thought I could give it a go:

  I am changing a video of my uncle's funeral. The funeral was recorded for the grandchildren-yet-to-come. All (except a clip) was filmed using the same device. However, I don't have access to the camera, and I'm not the camera man. When the music was played at the funeral, the camera was rolling, so I added this music me and put a slide show (which aired the same day) in music.

  During the project, I made several quick quality, medium makes it to show my cousin (who dad is deceased) the progress I was making. During these renders, I couldn't note picture quality problems. Also due to the poor quality of course rendering parameters.

  Anyway. When I've finished editing, I was pretty happy with the end result. My cousin agreed so I decided to burn it to a DVD so it could be distributed more to the rest of the family. Engraving impossible at first, but later, after a reboot, everything worked fine. Then, I played a DVD on my TV and discovered that the quality of the images used in slide shows was horrible. I could recognize faces not even, it was that grainy!

  First of all. The "plug":

  Camera: Sony DCR55

  Project settings: PAL > hard drive, memory flash camcorders > Widescreen 48 kHz (I live in a PAL region: Netherlands)

  Disabled: Force project settings selected on this project

  Then the party pictures:

  All JPG pictures

  Yes, on the part of "what I already tried" (and does not, otherwise I would not have been typing this)

  What I tried so far after reading dozens of debates:

  (1) check if the DVD burner was not to blame. So I burned in a folder on my HARD drive. Similar result as what I see on my TV when I burn it to a DVD and read it.

  (2) double-check the project settings. Everything seems OK. Also when I use right click on the clips added to check if the settings are still OK. They are. As for the photos, which surprised me because video clips big screen use non square pixels and pictures of course not. (Thumbs Up for Adobe)

  (3) resize the pictures to the resolution used (720 x 576) before adding them. No improvement, exactly the same thing.

  (4) turn off ' greatness 'framesize. No difference.

  Finally, I want to address the term 'quality '. Below you will find a scale to the bottom of the image at the same resolution as mentioned earlier, compared to a still from the DVD:

  

  Top photo is resized with MS paint. Still seems strong enough.

  The background is a still of the DVD file. Note the 'graining' and the horizontal lines.

  That leaves me with 2 questions:

  (1) what can I do to get rid of bad quality photos

  (2) why did I lose horizontal pixels (as can be seen in the background image)

  If someone could help me, it would be greatly appreciated!

  Joris W

  First the mini test runs before the project of grand...

  My understanding

  a. your original photos are 3264 x 1836 pixels (16:9)

  and

  b. your video is 720 x 576 @ 25 fps interlaced per second, captured from miniDV camcorder

  Focus 1... .the source photos

  Open a new Premiere Elements project, go to the Expert workspace and set the predefined project manually to

  PAL

  DIGITAL SLR

  1080 p

  DSLR 1080p25

  To do this...

  The file menu/new/project and change the settings

  In the settings, set the project preset to the DSLR 1080p25 above as suggested.

  Before leaving this area, the new project dialog box appears. Make sure you have a checkmark next to

  "Forcing the project selected in the project settings.

  When you are in the area of Expert work, please ensure that you are working with a check mark next to Edit Menu/preferences/general "Default scale to frame size".

  Go to add media/files and folders and import your part of

  photos of 3264 x 1836 (not resized).

  Go to publish + share/disc/DVD and burn to the widescreen PAL DVD-VIDEO to DVD disc using the preset

  PAL_Widescreen_Dolby DVD.

  The quality of playback of the disc resulting using your DVD TV Player even, better, worse than before?

  Accent 2... the video (depending on the results of development 1, photos) and will be considered once we see the results

  of development 1.

  RTA

• Some things I've never really found

  There is something to the camera that I have nevery found good information on. The manual is only telling where you can spend what, but not what it means the real thing.

  As for the "TAP" (that Alister already explained), you get to know how and where to run, but not what it is.

  So for me there:

  -What is the "Flare" in the camera menu

  -What is the "noise removal" in the menu of the device. What kind of noise suppression?

  -What is 'Opening' in the menu of the paint

  And the Menu "file":

  -What is stored in the file 'all' - what the camera is on?

  Seems not to be the case. What is included?

  -What is stored in the file 'scene' - seems to be only the settings of the menu 'Paint '. Is this correct? Why he is not called "file of paint?

  -What is the "lens" file - obviously you can set some parameters for different objectives. I guess you should always charge the parameter when changing the lens. But what are all these parameters on?

  Thanks for the explanations, links, ideas and help

  __Peter__

  Aperture is not a setting of the exhibition.

  Aperture is an image correction which takes frequenceis high within the image and improving fine details making sharpening and textures appear to crunch. Correction of detail works on contrast, increasing the contrast around the edges to make the sharper image adding these horrible halos black around things if it is no longer made. Therefore retail edges are characterised by increasing the contrast, while opening stimulates the finer details as textures on tissue, masonry, grass, etc. Opening tends to look less electronic retail, but also the noise increases that tends to be high frequency and thin, so can make the more grainy image.

  Don't know why scene files are not called files of paint, but that's what they are, a file containing the settings of paint.

  A file all stores scene files, lens files and camera, operating mode, area, speed, shutter and white balance settings, clip and file naming settings, configuration of time code as well as your assignable buttons. It allows essentially to the user modifiable camera settings and transfer these parameters to another.

  The lens file stores the flare and backstory for one purpose settings so that when you change lenses you can recall settings for that lens. FLARE compensates for light that diffuses exposure time strong and led to a milky appearance image by pinching the black level for each of the R, G and B channels whenever the camera takes pictures of the bright scenes. Shading adjusts to variations in exposure from top to bottom and from left to right (saw) and centric (para), this can be useful for dealing with lenses that vignette or have hot spots in the middle.

  It is worth noting that the noise reduction is not applied to the raw data from the sensor. When shooting in raw images may have more noise when shooting compressed. The assumption is that, when you work with raw you'd all noise reduction in the post where you have more control. The noise reduction seems to have a temporal component that can translate into a bit of extra track on any movement in the scene, especially at high speed.

• HP Pavilion 22xi

  Hello

  This monitor has a very grainy image, its connected to an iMac 2010, ive tried every possible Dvi Hdmi and Dvi/Hdmi and Vga connection but nothing seems to work.

  Display nice when lots of theres colours present but very noticeable when there is a lot of white, its as if the screen needs a cleanup as it looks like a greasy film on the top, I gave it a wipe with a dry cloth, but don't make any difference.

  Any ideas on how this can be resolved, the monitor running the same resolution as the iMac at 1920 x 1080 at 60 Hz.

  Any help would be really appreciated

  Thank you

  Matt

  Hello Matty74!

  I did a little research and found something that may be useful.

  It seems that almost all other manufacterers (except Apple) using the Adobe RGB.  Adobe RGB is a 'color' that basically is the industry standard for how colors should look / appear on the screen.  Here is more information on Adobe RGB.  Apple, however, uses a different standard known as YPbPr.  Many users also claim this makes the image seems "grainy" or "fuzzy", in addition to the colors seeming different.

  I have not noted in the guide, but it is possible there is an option in the menus on the screen allowing you to change modes.

  You have a friend with a Windows laptop?  If you connect the monitor to a computer using the Adobe standard he would give you a definitive answer of if it is catchy, or at least in part, the question.

  Let me know if this is possible.

• About to lose my mind: burn to DVD

  Hello dear users of Adobe Forums.

  I've been here previously for a problem concerning the grainy images when burning on DVD: https://forums.adobe.com/thread/1622000

  At the time, after the problem has been resolved, I burned a DVD to show the final version to the person I did the video. Everything has been approved, so now I wanted to burn 20 DVD of for all the members of my family. Unfortunately, I can't manage even burn a!

  Everything works very well at first; "the media encoding", "compile media" and then he said: "burning to disc. The progress bar starts immediately to 5% (equivalent to 1/20 I guess), the DVD is ejected and I have the chance to see: 'unknown error 2130932483'

  About six months ago, when I burned the preview version, I also got this error, but a second attempt succeeded. However, I tried six different disks now, nothing helps.

  Other themes and searching the Internet, the problem is likely to be hidden inside the burner hard - or software. Let me tell what I've done so far:

  • try six different record, the same mark and two sets. However, the disc has managed one (6 months ago) was also one of the packs. (Philips DVD-R 1-16 x)
  • restarted the system several times
  • Uninstall / reinstall the burner driver (burner is Optiarc BD ROM BC - 5500S)
  • Uninstall all associated burner software (ImgBurn / Nero cover designer)

  What I have tried and something that works like a charm, is to burn to a folder. This eliminates the possibility of not cooperating with the PRE burner.

  Now, this seems to be a very stupid question, but how the hell can I burn the file on a DVD so it can be displayed on a normal DVD as DVD-video player?

  Is there some software practice of engraving (free) available for this task? Please help, because I'm about to lose my mind...

  PS. the first attempt I made today actually worked, and I was PRE the burn was successful, however, when I inserted the DVD into my DVD player no audio was present? As mentioned previously, I could not reproduce it.

  A final summary for users in the future who encounter the same problem:

  1) burn on folder (4.7 or 8.5 GB whichever is applicable)

  1 (a) remove the OpenDVD folder
  1 (b) add empty AUDIO_TS folder for compatibility with some players of DVD from Panasonic

  (2) download and install ImgBurn

  (3) use it ' ecrire write files/folders to disc, select the two folders. Also be sure to select the right burning speed (compatible with your hardware and DVD), otherwise this may cause errors.

• Problems to open CR2 files in CS2

  I have CS2 and have always been able to open the RAW files produced by my OlympusC5050. I now have a Canon S95 and photoshop does not open the CR2 files it produces. After some research, I downloaded a DNG Converter and used this. However, the results are far from good, resulting a very grainy image.

  Hi Jane,

  Your put questions on why the Canon S95 is noisier than the Olympus C5050.   There seems to be several factors:

  First of all, there are more pixels on the sensor of the S95, so each pixel is a little smaller, and one stray electron of the noise is a percentage more high maximum value of pixels each additional electron noise will appear a bit more highlight; However, in my view, there are the most important differences between your shots of Olympus green-water and your blue Cannon shots - water:

  Because the eye is more sensitive to green, photo sensors are designed to have twice as much green as red or blue pixels, so your green shots will have much more detailed that mask the noise.  In addition, when you balance of a blue more often turned to one that has more red, there is very little red at first, so no noise in the Red is magnified by several times and even with the blue, although that perhaps not quite as well.

  If you have a blue shot or a green shot with two cameras, so it would be easier to say what proportion of the increase in noise is due to the color of the light and how is something else.

  Anyway, I test to see if the format Conversion DNG using ACR 2.4 compatibility had nothing to do with whatever it is, and it doesn't seem to change what the image looks like, so it's not a factor.

  The main problem is that you're using CS2 and ACR 3.x which has the original Adobe raw conversion algorithm (and the worst), now known as process Version 2003.  Two Version of process have been since then: process Version 2010 increased the resolution of the raw conversions so that changing how work in general sharpness and noise reduction and process Version 2012 has added a new way to tone (Lighten/Darken/contrast/etc) images is easier to use once you get used to it.

  To illustrate the difference, here's one-by-side, which shows that the way CS2 does things left and the latest way 7/8 ACR or LR 4/5 path on the right, where you will see a more coarse texture and more noise by using the way of CS2 and a finer texture and less noise using the latest methods - click on the embedded image to see larger :

  

  In my opinion, the noise in the image on the left is too, and noise in the right image is deleted too, but I wanted to show how the values of 50% each slide.

  What about your computer and the version of LR.  Googling the number of brand and model that you gave and find a 2011 used-computer-to-sell listing with the specifications of the system, it seems that your computer is a Core2Duo with a processor clocked at 1.8 GHz and 1 or 2 GB of memory and you said Vista.  The new version of LR you can run on Vista is LR 4.x that might still be available on Amazon (to the United States at least), but you'd have a good snap up a lot more recent computer and LR 4 or 5 LR on it.  As a kind of i5 or i7 quad-core with at least 8 GB of memory.  It would be a few hundred dollars and a little extra if it's a laptop instead of a desktop computer with the same capabilities.  Make sure you get one with a screen of at least 768 size or maybe it's 800 or 900 pixels high, so you can see all the buttons on the bottom.

  Even if you think that, if you want to test how your current computer would work with the newest LR will run on it, you can download the LR 4.4.1 update and run in trial mode for 30 days, by how much you had or do you buy or abandon it.  Here's the LR for Windows download links - click on LR 4.4.1 a:

  http://www.Adobe.com/support/downloads/product.jsp?product=113&platform=Windows

• Layers of curve ignored when physical one?

  Hello!

  I have an image where the last (top) 2 are 2 curve layers (to Dodge and burn). For some strange reason, when reducing the image to a layer or even in striking strg curve shift alt e, 2 layers are ignored. If I get an image flattened without the look of the dnb.

  Anyone know why this is happening and fix it?

  Thanks in advance,

  Jac

  Viewing at 100% (view > pixel real, command-1) when the apparent failure of adjustment on merging layers occurs?

  Other magnifications can be misleading, especially with noisy or grainy images.

• How do you...?

  Hello..

  I have a situation where I have a few grainy images.

  I bought a 3rd party ap that works really well. much better results than the filter "to reduce the grain" in AE.

  BUT it's a 2 hour live event and that several tasks are grainy.

  I could export the whole thing with the new part 3 filter, but which would also smooth some of the good images unnecessarily

  (2) I'm not an EA expert by any stretch, but if there was a way to "change" 2 h in the EI program, so I can apply the filter to the bad images only, but I do not know how to change the parties within EI, then reconnect all this together?

  (3) is it possible to include AE as one of the "round-trip" programs associated with Final Cut Pro? Right now, I can "send" segments from final cut PRO to Soundtrack Pro for example. Anyway is to do with EI? (Im on the CS3 version) - in this way, I think that I could send the grainy parts to AE, secure them here, and they should be updated in FCP - but don't know how to make this association.

  be like FCP is all well published right now, I don't want to copy songs, correct them and then replace that cause them likely cause audio go out of sync or transitions do not work or I usually get "insufficient content for edit" or errors like that. In addition, I think it would be a lot of work, pieces of duplication, and then re - import into FCP you know?

  with a "round trip" it should update directly in mutual FUNDS after being fixed in AE.

  any other suggestion would be thank you very much.

  > Yes you area to say I can duplicate layers...

  Have you followed the link I gave for the separation of the layers? Do.

  > What is the best setting to use to render it out to fi its going to go to dvd Studio Pro?

  I don't know anything about DVD Studio Pro. I'm going to assume that the same principle applies to what applies to most post-production software: give him an intermediate file compressed lossless. I use a QuickTime movie with the video codec PNG when I leave the files to a friend who uses Final Cut Pro.

  See this FAQ entry for more information on the choice of the export settings:

  http://forums.Adobe.com/thread/729526

• Tecra M11 - 17V with Windows 7 - the webcam image is very grainy

  Hello

  Yesterday my webcam (integrated in the laptop) worked perfectly, now it's not...

  Whenever I use it now, the picture is very grainy, almost like a pattern of tartan of intersection of lines, but I can still pretty much do myself in the background. Movement and sound are still saved, just the image is strange.

  Help, please! Anyone had this happen? I can fix myself, or is this a hardware problem? I got this laptop 3 months, again, and this is the first problem I had...

  Thank you very much
  DOM

  Hello

  Usually, the lens of the webcam is covered by a thin sheet that must be removed for the first time. But I think that you did in the past because the webcam worked correctly in the past. Right?

  Well, I think you could try to reinstall the webcam software.
  Not sure if that helps, but it's worth a try, then try it.

• First Pro CS6-still images that grainy when the effects of movement applied

  I made a video in Premiere Pro CS6. The video, in part, still use images that I pan or zoom in on a Ken Burns effect. Although still images look good after having been imported, when the effects of movement are applied, they become suddenly very grainy and low quality.

  The images have been made - the bar above them is yellow - and I tried of many workarounds, including convert images in .psd and using the frame Hold.

  What should I do to fix this?

  maximum render quality verified?

• InDesign - type display images appear black and white and grainy

  Please help! I have scoured the internet looking for a solution to this problem for many years and were generally able to work around it so far.

  A bit of background first: all the images are recorded as a dish, .eps, CMYK, 300 dpi (about 6 inches square), with clipping paths. All images are created from the same Photoshop file (working model) - photo of a single bucket on a white background, with an existing clipping path. Illustrator illustration is placed in this file and distorted to create images for the various products that we manufacture. (Rather than photograph each bucket with a tag on it).

  Issue 1:

  What seems to be completely random, sometimes square or re-related images in InDesign appear black and white dotted with images (typical display). I used to get frustrated with it, but since I couldn't find a solution, I usually ignore it because the "high quality screen" works very well.

  Two of these buckets below have been created since the same file photoshop, the same day, saved in the same way. The two shown here in typical display.

  

  Even buckets again, both the 'high quality screen '.

  

  2nd question:

  Now, I create a new InDesign "Data sheet" model for our products and each sheet will have 3 buckets shown. Because the buckets are white, I add shadows laid and Interior to create the deep shadows. I want to be able to create a Standard model, given that several designers in our Department are going to access it and when they create a new datasheet, all they need to do is add a link to the photos of the bucket for the new product (which will be created from the photoshop, existing model) and drop shadow/inner shadows everything remain the same.

  On the images that become black and white grainy (3085 above), the effects are applied to the colored areas of the buckets, no not the path of clipped bucket.

  This screenshot below shows two buckets to high quality screen. I've selected two images and try to apply the same exact shadow, but as you can see on the left is almost ghost image of bucket. The two images have the exact same clipping on them. Help, please!

  

  SPE is no longer recommended for use with InDesign format. Because these files have some content vector and raster, save it as a Photoshop PDF and see if it helps.