In the Sansa View player charge battery

I just bought Sansa View 16 GB drive.

I have a question about recharging the battery.

We need to turn the player to load it?

Can't he stay OFF and always charge the battery is?

What is the latest firmware, we should have about this player that will give maximum benefit without compromising on the battery life?

Just plug in your computer, you cannot turn it off. If its charge by the wall leaves on it, it'll be fine. I don't think he will then only off the coast. The latest firmware is the best.

I hope this helps, Happy New Year

Tags: SanDisk Sansa

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    1 - Yes it will delete your songs pre-loaded...

    2 - try music transfer manually, as opposoed of synchronization see you...   Drag and Drop, you can beat it with a stick...

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  • The Sansa View headphone jack repair

    How to fix a headphone jack for listening to Sansa View problem

    I bought a refurbished Sansa View 8 GB a while back for $60 at a hypermarket on the local computer and
    It came with a political guarantee of 60 days and 30 days of return of the store.  I liked the view better
    only the rocket and the Clip, they had for similar prices because of the larger screen.  At the time I'm not
    know that Sandisk has been gradually the support of support for new players, or about the
    others have had to problems.
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    channels correctly, and if I shook the card he got much louder.  I could the deal and he would play
    good for awhile and then a channel would cut out randomly.  After some research, I found that
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    that describes the product and contains the chisel, and they could not return.  They would have
    I would like to swap with someone else and his sleeves to return the original unit, but they sold the
    them and never got over.  I think I was about $ 60 at that time here, so I went
    back line for further research.  I found a guy on this forum who had disassembled one, therefore, using
    his instructions (with some modifications), I took mine hand, found the bad soldering and fixed
    them.  Here's how:

    1. use a PIN or sharp knife to release the tiny connector black rubber that covers the screw
    It must be removed to open the case; It is located to the right of the usb plug (ahead of)
    Reader).  Put the CAP and the screws that you remove so later in a small Tupperware
    you do not lose them.
    2. remove the screw, with a very small phillips head of a glasses or a good game repair kit
    precision screwdrivers.
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    Basic it and work slowly around the case counterclockwise, separating the nail of the thumb
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    which become visible when you move along the line of separation.  Take your time in order to not break
    no label.  Finally you get to the last tab in the lower left corner of the headphone jack.
    This is where I had my only problem.  Other blogs say to lift a lever to more
    release this tab; I found that nothing seemed to free him and after several minutes of
    soft eyes I broke something and it came loose.  I think it was super-colle in place!
    4. I didn't take away the little water that connects the encoder in the Council, because it is very
    difficult to re - install these things, so just press the cover of how to get to the screen and
    Live PC.  There are 2 tiny black screws holding the display remove them and
    equivalent it loose, leaving the attached ribbon cable again
    5. now you can see the battery; out of its niche and disconnect the 3 tiny dumb son.
    Nector and set it aside.
    6. push the lid, so you can see the 3 tiny black screws holding circuit board printed; delete
    them (the last is difficult to see, it's in the corner to the right of the headphone jack).  Equivalent
    the Platinum (the cursor for the power switch appears immediately switch).  You should now be
    looking at the empty metal casing and the display, printed circuit board and a plastic cover should
    all be loose, but still connected by two ribbon cables.  In the Tupperware you
    should have 1 small black cap, 1 small silver screw, 5 small black screws, the slider switch.
    and the battery.
    7. I now inspect the plug welds helmet, and it was very obvious that 2 of
    the legs were loose, probably because of not enough solder on them.  I warmed up a little
    flat-head screwdriver precision with a mini torch and has used and very fine electronics
    welding to weld safely.  After a thorough inspection of the other joints, I decided to leave
    alone because they looked OK.
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    channels played now, but I've always heard some static when you turn the CAP.  I have fig-
    measured, it was normal in my experience with small electronic devices, so I assembled the player
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    now worked better, but still had some problems with making good contact.  Now at least I can
    He lay and he will play both channels indefinitely.  I think that the problem is related to the
    bad quality of decision-making.
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    works.  In the future I will try to clean the plug with the electronic device, and if that does not work
    help can I go back in and try a few welding more or contacts inside making bending.
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    whatever it is the heat.

    So repair all taken only an hour (excluding research).  I now have the confidence to
    Difficulty everything that can go wrong in the future.  I could swap the battery in 10 minutes and I
    hear they are only about $20, so I could keep this thing going for years.  I went from $ 60
    brick for a machine that could last a long time.  I wouldn't buy a Sansa View,.
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    It's my last update to my problem of current headphones.  The view is now fixed; Although having a few changes

    appearance.  It now sports an inch and one-quarter long cast taken helmet hanging out where the taking of origin to reside.  You can laugh now, but not for too long, because this thing is perfect now!  The repair is also robust enough to

    Use it as a portable device (carry in your pocket or other) without worrying too ripped loose.

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    2 front and 2 rear tabs are on enveloping metal clips which can be removed separately.  The old jack appears just out of it

    slot in the jury.  Earlier, I bought an extension of 3.5 mm headset (with volume control, $8.99, p/n 4202559) from Radio Shack, just because it was the smallest molded into the store.  They had one for $2.49, what was right, but it was twice as big, so I spent the extra bucks because he must fit into the original hole.  I now have it cut and stripped the wires, leaving only an inch of thread on the new socket.  Then I soldered the 3 wires in their appropriate places, as

    as a result;  looking at the top of the Board, with the power switch facing you, you have 6 contacts arranged like this.

    : the 2 middle are positive of left and right, top left (ground) common to both channels. The others are only to secure the plug to the Board of Directors.   After brazing firmly the son I just put all together. the ribs on the molded strain relief perfectly nested within the original hole in the case, then it will not easily get out but retains some flexibility.  The only problem I see is that the case is not quite keep hanging down in that corner more, but that could easily be corrected by a small drop of super glue.  I'll do it later if it seems that the case is in danger of seperating

    or if the wire pulls.  I have also considered the fill area with hot melt glue, but who could do a more difficult future repair.  I think that super glue will be the best and is still to open again if you only use a microdot of glue.

    So after all this pain and suffering, I finally a player, maybe I can use for years to come.  Total cost:

    Given to nine Sansa View 8 GB... $60.00

    RadioShack 3.5 mm ext. p/n 4202559... $9.00

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