Issue of sensor size

Similar Questions

• Profiles of lenses for different organizations, but the same sensor size?

  I downloaded LR 4.1 RC today.  Some of my lenses are not explained in LR so I downloaded then Lens profile Downloader Preview 3 to see if there are all the profiles available for download.  For some lenses I found profiles, but they did not go on the same body I have (same sensor size however).   Can I use profiles for the lenses if they are for a camera body that is different from mine, but always the same sensor size?  I know that with a lens profile LR auto corrects distortion, vignetting and CA.  That will work if my body is different from that of the body used for the profile of the lens?  Thank you.

  Yes it is possible.

  I downloaded it with Adobe Lensprofile Downloader

  In LR, I choose it bonded.

  I have the Panasonic Lumix G 20 mm f 1.7 ASPH on Panasonic GF1

  and the available profile is (same lens) for Panasonic Lumix DMC - G3.

  Works very well.

  Frans

• vCenter 5.1 having issues with snapshot size alerts

  Hello world
  I have a problem regarding the sending of alerts by e-mail when vm snapshot size exceeds a certain size. (in fact, any size with problems)

  She doesn't send traps, ignoring what I did come in like it size and spamming my Inbox.

  Go to alerts vcenter - new alarm - monitor: VMS - monitor specific conditions or State...

  Trigger: Condition: above

  Size of Snapshot in VM (GB): WARNING: level 1

  Snapshot in VM (GB) size: alert level: 2

  Send email to: myself

  When I click on ok. I have tons of emails from vcenter which all my virtual machines exceeded the size limit of 1 GB instant! (but he doesn't based on storage views)

  Then I put the level to 10 GB makes no sense. It keeps me spamming all my virtual machines with snapshot size exceeded.

  This setting worked well with vcenter 5.0 because I upgraded to vcenter 5.1, this problem appeared. Note that I have 2 vcenters, two of them having the same problem.

  Please see the attached photos.

  VCenter version: 5.1 build: 880146 running on windows server.

  Would you kindly try to put the same trap and let me know if this is a bug or not?

  Thank you all happy new year

  It is a known issue with vCenter Server 5.1 (VM Snapshot size (GB) alarm incorrectly triggers on VMS with no snapshots (2037464)), which - according to http://www.vmware.com/support/vsphere5/doc/vsphere-vcenter-server-510b-release-notes.html - does not seem to have been resolved with the last 5. 1 b version.

  André

• PowerEdge 2970 Service Tag: NOTES from the ADMIN: maintain the label removed by privacy policy > issue of maximum size of HARD drive

  This server gave to us (a non-profit). I it upward and the work, but we need to order some new HARD drives for it. I downloaded all manuals and any other information that I could find. It seems that I have seen that there is a maximum size of 1 TB, but I can't find that.

  Can you point me in the right direction?

  Thank you, Alan

  2 TB is the largest disk will take care of any of the "RAID" controllers for this server. Mode no RAID, I heard that the SAS 6/iR will support larger disks. Away office/computer laptop/NAS discs and stick to the readers of enterprise class if you are using a PERC.

• Safari 10: too small font size

  After the installation of Safari 10.0 this morning, nothing is as it used to be - printing on most websites is too small for me to read. The option to adjust the size to a minimum size by default in the Preferences window has disappeared; pages can be enlarged in 125, 150% etc but not what I want.

  I no has not upgraded to the latest version of Safari to end up reading texts too small they are printed on stamps!

  Do these guys at apple all this walk with a watchmakers eyepiece? All solutions (style sheets?)?

  There are a number of discussions on this issue with your same concern. I agree, the issue of font size is really bad and the zoom function is NOT a way to solve this problem. As others have suggested sending back to Apple is a way of approaching the question with the hope that they give the choice of font size in preferences rather than this impassable zoom feature.

• Editor in the file blackberry - tablet.xml AND size of the icons

  The fact of the Editor:

  This line

  A name goes here

  Must be the same name as the company that has been registered under the account of the seller of blackberry appworld? Or if not a business then the same name as the person who has been registered under the account of the seller of blackberry appworld?

  Also, this is a completely different issue, but the size of the icon of the application should be 86 x 86 as a PNG, right?

  The tag in the file blackberry - tablet.xml is the same name you registered with your keys and are identical to the CN value during the signing process.

  86 x 86 PNG is fine.

• Size of e-mail from hive

  Hi all
  
  Does anyone know how to increase the potential size of the e-mail sent by hive? I have several users who need to send emails with large attachments, the JPGs and other and there seems to be a barrier of about 9.5 M by an outgoing e-mail.
  
  The only setting I could find close on this issue is the size of the email parameter. It is already set to 50000000 bytes. Apparently, it relates to incoming mail, can I receive emails larger than the 9.5 M.
  
  Any help would be appreciated.
  
  SSB

  BSR,

  for version > = 2.0.1.1.0 take into account the fact that a new parameter has been introduced: of [2.0.1.1.0 Patch Set Readme | http://www.oracle.com/technology/products/beehive/patchdoc/beehive_20110_readme.htm]

  "New EmailService:CSIProperties introduced property.

  2.0.1.1.0 patch Set adds a new property to the EmailService:CSIProperties component. The new VMSProperties property stores the name of a virtual mail server (VM) (by default, the OutboundVMS). Oracle Beehive apply the limits on the size of the messages and the number of recipients stored in this VM, to all e-mail messages internal to the hive (CSI), from customers Oracle Beehive, such as Oracle Beehive Webmail and o.

  This allows to configure the maximum message size and the maximum number of recipients for your deployment of Oracle whole hive in one place (the OutboundVMS), and these limits apply to all email traffic. »

  Maybe you weren't looking in the right place?

  HTH, Tom

• I need lenses for Canon 6 d

  Hello

  I just bought my 6 d with EF 24-105mm f / 4L IS USM lens. I'm new in the world of photography canon so I'm still confused about what lenses should I own suits my needs. I need especially my goal to take pictures at my gym where I teach karate classes, the room is about 50 * 50 feet, I am planing to take pictures for the students, while peferoming karate moves so I want to take pictures for the whole team that for sure needs a wide-angle lens but I know not the focal length I need and if it has zoom the goal or not. Addinng to this use I need as well to take pictures for my new born baby and occations of my other child such as birthdays, school events...

  Thank you in advance

  I might consider getting the EF 50 mm f1/.4 USM.

  I imagine that you will use this to capture images of students performing moves - they are 'on the move '.

  During motion capture, you can (a) use a shutter speed faster to 'freeze' the action, or (b) use a slightly slower shutter speed to allow the image implies a sense of motion blur (and sometimes, it's actually a more compelling.)

  Photograph of Interior with faster shutter speeds is delicate, because usually the light is weak (Fortunately the 6 d has a high ISO range.)  But it helps to have a goal which collects naturally much more light.

  Your 24-105mm lens has a maximum ratio of focal f/4.  The report describes the number of times the diameter of the free opening in the lens (opening) can be divided into the focal length.  This means that to, say, 100mm... the aperture of the lens is able to dilate and 25mm wide and 25mm is divided into 100mm exactly four times, it is a lens ' f/4' (the aperture blades may contract smaller... the value printed on the lens always describe the report using the largest possible opening size.)

  A 50mm f/1.4 lens collects literally EIGHT times more light.  This means that he can use a shutter speed to eight times faster than the 24-105mm... or it can use a lower ISO setting (to reduce the 'noise' in the image).

  I am also considering a lens based on subject framing.  You can use the calculator 'dimensions of field' on this Web site: http://www.tawbaware.com/maxlyons/calc.htm

  So imagine that you want to capture a student doing a kick in which you believe, you will need a framework at least 10' high.  You can use the calculator to determine what focal length of a given distance, you'll need to capture that.  If I plug a 50mm lens, guess I'll be 20' away from the student, and then I can plug these two values.  There is a third value, which is the "focal length multiplier" (also known as the "crop factor").  Your 6 d is a "full frame" camera, which means that the factor of cropping (or multiplier) is always exactly '1' (if you had a camera with a sensor size of APS - C... a little... then your crop factor sensor would be 1.6).

  If I access the '50' for the focal length of the lens, '1' to multiply the focal length and '20' to my distance to the subject and click the "compute" button, it tells me that the physical framework of the distance dimensions is 9' 7.2 "high (in the vertical direction) and 14' 4.8" wide in the horizontal direction.  It is a comfortable (close enough to 10') frame to frame the subject and perhaps also their target.

  I could try other lenses too...  I could plug in 85mm as the focal length, but I try to change the distances to get a similar framing and I discovered that at 85mm, I really need about 35 feet away (instead of 20' far away.)

  You can imagine how go to higher focal lengths will be able to get to a point where you run lack of space in your room 50' because if your subject is in the middle of the room, you have about 25' and your back is against the wall, trying to get this shot.  That's why... I think that 50mm is probably a good lens (again this is based on the assumption that you want to capture a vertical height of approximately 10'.)

  A bit of caution... When you use a lens with a report f / d below, the depth of field (an imaginary Beach distances to your intended focus distance over which subjects seem to be in acceptable focus) becomes narrower.

  With a 50mm using f/1.4 lens and a lens focused at a distance of 20', the 'depth of field' is a little over 4' thick... distance of 18.1 ' through 22.3 ' will appear to be reasonably acceptable point.

  Compare that to f/4 (using the same focal length and 20' 50 mm) and the depth of field is 12.7 ' thick... distance of 15.5 ' through 28.2 ' are in acceptable focus.

  You can see that, while the report f / f/1.4 d collect eight times more light, it happens to a compromise in the depth of field (btw, a lot of people really LIKE the blurred background and do their best to get the effect).

  If your subject distance changes, then you'll want to use the mode of development of "AI Servo" (instead of the mode of development of the default camera 'One Shot') which causes the camera constantly reevaluate and tweak attention than your distance to the subject changes (in 'One Shot' mode it will carry only until she Achieves a lock... and then stops focusing even if your subject is moving and distance) is no longer valid.)

  Flash: You ask about flash, but I thought I would offer this because it's something I would probably consider doing in this situation.

  It becomes a bit complicated because of the 'synchro-flash max' speed (on the 6 d speed is 1/180th second shutter speed)  This is not fast enough to 'freeze' the action if this action is at a relatively high speed.

  The camera uses two "curtains" (doors) that slide on the sensor.  When taking a picture, you open to start the show... a moment later, the second, are closed.  The doors have a maximum speed of physics that they can move to open or close.  On your camera, a shutter speed of 1/180th second or slower allows a door to open COMPLETELY, then the flash (Exhibitor the entire sensor to light) and then close the second door.  A speed faster than 1/180th requires that the second door already begin before the end of the first opening of the closing door.  So to create pictures of high speed, the first door left open but the second door begins suite - expose really just a "slot" of light that sweeps the sensor.  This allows your camera to use shutter speeds that are faster that the doors can actually move.  If a flash fire when there is only a slit exposed, while part of the sensor exposed by this crack Gets the benefit of the light.

  It deals with issues like a flash that support the mode "sync high speed ' with enough power for multiple light chips needed when using high-speed sync.   This means pulse flash quickly because the shutter works so well that each part of the sensor has Flash.  But as the flash needs to perform several bursts, then single burst may trigger the 'full' power because the flash has book enogh power for all the necessary pieces.  It is useful to have a powerful flash in particular (as Canon 600EX-RT).

  You can also use mode "sync second curtain" If you normally involves movement... when using a flash, the first door opens, then flash fires... and wait for the camera on the amount of time needed for your show time... and THEN close the second door.  But if something is moving, it means you get a bright subject (in flash) and then the ambient light continues to bring a bit of light on your subject that continues to shift.  This dimmer light on the moving subject creates a ghost trail... but the trail is "in front" of your subject, rather than 'behind' your topic - following, so it seems a little strange.

  "Second curtain" mode involves the camera to delay the release of the flash, just before the second door closes.  This puts this drag ghost 'behind' your topic.

  BTW, this second option (which implies the query using a flash on mode "on the 2nd curtain sync" while using a slow shutter speed deliberately) also helps the camera much better capture the background exposure of the room (we call this technique "dragging the shutter" because we deliberately use a slower than necessary shutter speed when using a flash).

• Send an email to iCloud - should not exceed the sending limit.

  When sending email * address, receive the message I'm over issuing limit the size without worrying about the content of the e-mail.

  Occurs when on iPhone, iPad and MacBook.

  < personal information under the direction of the host >

  edit your message if you do not want your email address harvested for spam by a web bot.

  have you tried directly from iCloud.com?

• Camera not properly initialize since v. 4 - PROBLEM SOLVED

  I'll preface this with have not only I've done several ' resets all the ', I deleted all the files from camera loaded on the SD card that have been created in v.3 and after 'Reset All' was performed manually via the menu and re configure all my preferences instead of loading old sound of the SD card.

  With that of the road, my problem is 80% of the time that I start the camera with power supply or a battery, the unit freezes at the Sony logo on the submenu. Power must be cut (which has no effect), power removed/disconnected, wait the Sony logo screen disappears and then try to restart. It usually takes 2-4 trys until the camera manages to move to the "Sony" screen and performs full initialization upward. IM dreading the day that this happens on a job and the camera completely fails to start completely. I NEVER had this problem with all previous firmwares. Anyone else having this problem and any advice on how to solve this problem?...

  Side note: my first F5 made the day I brought home from Abel a year ago, but in this case the start of Sony screen wouldn't go away no matter what I or Able tried to do. They talked to Sony and said send it back, fortunately Abel gave me a new on-site and I never knew the question once again. Until now...

  UPDATE: May 30 - problem solved.

  Well it seems that everything has been healed. I went to Sony to Teaneck service yesterday and they replaced "PCB of HIF - 64" or, as we have been referring to him as the SDI card. Also updated the wheel to stop ND, design much better. Engineers, that I talked to had seen cameras having the same problem as me and reinstallation of the map is the apparent cure. Spoke with a Senior technician there for a good 45 minutes a range of topics. Was'nt able to get new information out of him, but he was very helpful and insightful no less. He said that the Japan is aware of the issue of sensor grid that some people have, but they have not been told that the solution will be even.

  Thank you Alister, I'll give them both a go and communicate the results.

• Want to combine two tables with different numbers of lines 2d

  I'm out data in a file in 2d tables, then adding more as it goes, and I run into issues when the size changes.

  2D arrays must be of rectangular shape, so those empty space you have it will be filled with the default value of any data type you are using. See attachment for the concatenation of tables:

• 2164US dv4: DV4 CHG to SSD disk / recovery does not work

  I have 2164US DV4.

  Currently, I've changed the hard drive for an SSD.

  HARD drive original: WD 320

  New SSD: Samgsung 850 EVO 120 GB SSD

  OS: Windows 7

  I have recovery on DVD discs.

  I placed the 1st dvd. It worked.

  When released the 1st disk, the sign says "insert disc #2."

  I placed the 2nd dvd, but the cd rom drive opens in a few minutes.

  The sign still says "insert disk #2.

  I tried several times, but it looks the same.

  I contacted the HP technical support regarding this issue.

  HP told me that the issues of the size of the hard drive.

  Which means the new size of the SSD is much smaller than the original size.

  However, I do not understand why this is important.

  Size of the recovery system is of approx. 75 GB only.

  Is there any solution for this?

  k2sean

  Hello;

  Let me welcome you on the HP forums!

  I read your post about the problem of recovery and wanted to help.

  When I replaced the HARD drive of my laptop DV6 with a SDS, I bought a DDI the same capacity.

  Later, when I read about people with problems like yours, I assumed it was because the SDS was smaller than the original HARD drive.  But later, I learned by one of the members of the Provost, as long as the SSD is 256 GB or larger, you can make the recovery feature.

  So, basically, your SDS is too small for the recovery feature work properly.

  Good luck

  I'm a volunteer and I do not work for, or represent, HP.
  ========================================================================
  If you feel that my suggestions helped you, please click on the thumbs-up symbol to say thank you!

  If they helped to solve your problem, please click 'Accept as Solution' to help others find similar information.

• Body of L ' goal and EOS Rebel T3i

  I asked a lot of questions here, haha.
  But I'm here with another question. So, I did a little research on the net about the use of the ' goal with a t3i and quite a few people say that they work well together? So objective L are not recommended for EOS Rebel bodies? Can someone explain this to me please.
  I recently bought the T3i and I want just a good lens. Preference for landscape photos. I'm also a few sports, low light and portrait photos.
  Suggestions for the landscape and all around the lens of photography would be great ():

  For landscape photography people often want to use a lens wide angle. Not always, there is no rule that says you can't use anything else. I say "it's usually the first thing that comes to mind

  One of the best wide angles that you get to use on a T3i is the Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM. It is not an 'L' but it doesn't matter.

  I suspect that what you have said about the use of an L series lens is due to the factor of cropping of your device photo, as has been suggested by several other responses. L - series will work fine on your camera, but all L-series lenses are models 'full frame', by definition. Therefore, none of the L will be particularly wide angle on your camera. So, when people hear 'landscape', they suggest something else that a L-series.

  You have four different purposes: landscape, sport, low light and portrait. The whole point of a DSLR as your T3i is to be able to Exchange lenses, to be able to adjust the camera for use in different situations. So I would say not to try to do it with a lens, but to look more lenses (some of which are Ls), which should ultimately give you better results. For example...

  Wide angle landscape: EF-S 10-22mm.

  Sport: 70-200/4, 70-200 / 4L, 70-200/2.8, 70-200 / 2.8 L IS II, 100-400 L IS, 300/4 L IS.

  Low light: 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, IS 35/2, 50/1.4, 50/1.8 II, 85/1.8.

  Portrait (Frank): 50/1.4, 85/1.8.

  Portrait (studio): EF - S 15-85 IS, the EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L, 24-70/4 IS, 24-70 / 2.8 L II.

  Portrait (environment): 20/2.8, 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, 35/2 IS.

  Versatile lens 'walk-around': EF-S 15-85 is... or, according to what the other lenses you get, EF - S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS or EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L IS, 24-70 / 4L IS, 24-70 / 2.8 L II.

  There are many different ways to set up a lens kit. For example, maybe you just like a wide point of view than the 10-22mm for your landscape photography. If so, instead, you can choose the lens EF-S 15-85 mm as wide enough and because it can double as a walkaround lens and can even be useful for some portraits.

  A 'minimum' kit I often hang out with a camera of harvest is: 10-22mm, 28-135 IS, 300/4 IS w / 1. 4 X teleconverter and a Tamron 60/2.0 macro/portrait.

  When I'm shooting, what I do for the most part with crop sensor cameras, I usually wear: 10-22 mm and 24-70/2.8, but my most used lenses are the IS 70-200/2.8 and 300/4 IS. (In some cases I use also 70 - 200/4 IS and 300/2.8 IS).

  For the portrait with a crop sensor camera, my favorite lenses are: 28/1.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8 and 135/2. Especially the 50mm and 85mm.

  Your camera can use all the EF-S and EF, including all of the L-series lenses. But just because a lens will fit and work does not mean it is the best choice for your application. In some cases buying a full frame capable lens for your camera will be useless... FF lenses can be bigger, heavier and more expensive... but not really give you the best performance, maybe even less. For example, a 16-35 / 2.8 L II is a wonderful goal on a FF camera, but it makes little sense to buy for use on a device of harvest. For less money, you can either get a lens that is really wide (EF-S 10-22mm), or a lens that offers a little wider range of focal lengths and IS (EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS) has.

  Depth of field in fact is not directly conducted by sizes of sensors of different cameras. What changes in depth of field are: focal length, Aperture and the distance about the goal. If you are looking for the low depth of field (blur a background for a portrait, for example), it takes a large aperture and a longer lens... and more you are close to the material the more shallow depth of field will be. If, however, you want lots of depth of field (for a landscape shot, for example), you want to use a smaller aperture and a shorter focal length... and more you are from the individual (within reasonable limits), will be the deepest depth of field.

  Where full-frame sensor vs cultures comes into force now is that for the same subject, framing with a crop sensor, that we need to stand further away with a given focal length, or if the same shooting distance will use a shorter focal length. In both cases, the result is 'less' depth of field, but it is an indirect result of different sensor size.

  Have fun shopping and learning about your new camera!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• I want to put a camera on the altar for weddings and to control with my android phone.

  Modern PowerShot camers have the ability to be controlled via a smartphone? Can what range I expect when you do this?

  Has anyone tried this and whats worked for you? CamRanger system is too expensive. Please notify.

  PhotosbyMJ wrote:

  Modern PowerShot camers have the ability to be controlled via a smartphone?

  The Canon G1X Mk II would be ideal for this. There is WiFi capable and with a sensor size of APS - C and M4/3, he has a fantastic image quality.

  I do not have a Mk II, but my G1X has no shutter sound. There are sounds of the focusing lens and nothing else.

• Will be 5 d Mark III and T5, T5i and T6i rebel use the same lenses

  I have the 5 d Mark III and some big L series lenses. I'll buy a rebel for my GF to learn photography. My lenses will work for her T5, T5i or T6i?

  Thank you!

  Yes - but it doesn't work the other way around.

  Canon EOS "EF" series lenses (including all your 'L' series lenses) will work on ANY body camera Canon EOS Digital or analogue, and regardless of whether a digital camera has a sensor size full frame (like the 5 d which has a sensor the same size as a 35 mm film negative) or a crop-frame camera (as the series body rebels who use the size of the) sensor 'APS - C' which is a bit smaller.)

  But suppose you get your GF body rebel... it'll come with a "kit" lens (usually this kit lens is the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II or EF - S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM).  But that goal is an EF-S lens.  The image that projects of the lens in the camera body is large enough to fill the surface of the sensor to a corner to for an APS - C sensor... but it is NOT an image large enough to cover the size of a sensor full-frame corner.  Advantage of the EF-S-objectives, is that they can produce a high quality image that does not need more large than an EF lens, and because of this, they are able to reduce the manufacturing cost of the lens and THIS means that the lens can be offered at a lower price than the somewhat similar focal ranges EF lenses.

  These objectives EF-S can be used on any digital camera Canon EOS which has a sensor size 'APS - C' (any body of the rebel, also all the 20 d with 70 d series), as well as the 7 d bodies but may not be used on any body of the camera which uses a larger sensor (any body standard standard 6 d or 1 d 5 d requires "EF" lenses).

  Specialty lenses like the tilt-shift (TS-E) and the extreme (MP-E) macrophoto lens can be used on any EOS body (just like the objectives EF.)