Kick Start advice needed

Similar Questions

• HP Officejet 4355 printer suddenly start very slow printing! HP technician advice needed!

  Hello
  My all-in-one HP Officejet 4355 printer start suddenly feel very very slow! I've had it for 4 years, and God never gave me any problems (maybe minor once, but never really made me mad), as I used it very often at home and at the office. I always buy the HP original ink cartridge (only once, when I wanted to see how works the charging - it's not) and now the last cartridge has been in the printer for a month or two, nothing unusual, and suddenly my printer starts to print very very slow, if normally it took 10-15 sec for a black and white page now it will take 10 to 15 minutes. Could someone suggest help?
  Please don't talk about the computer/Windows/USB settings, they all work very well. I unplugged the printer from the PC and don't "align the print cartridge. First step, the printed area, took 10 minutes, second step, part of scanning, does not pass. It says printer cannot allocate the alignment page...
  Moreover, I did look around for answers and found that some people say it's a fault of the ink cartridge. But I used this cartridge for a few months now, it's almost, but not yet finished, it was perfectly up to printing. Impressions during this issue come out OK, 7 out of 10.
  Anyone have any ideas? If I could attract professional assistance of technicians of HP, it would be perfect.
  
  Thank you.

  © RedStarLimitless ©

  Although they still ink cartridge may fail and give the results you see, where the printer made a bandage and wait 10-15 seconds for the next Strip. This is caused by the failure of one of your cartridges.  Remove each cartridge and clean the contacts on the cartridge and printer can solve the problem.

  I don't remember if the Officejet 4355 reserve mode supports, but try the following: remove the black print cartridge and print a test page.  The printer prints at a normal speed?  Is therefore the black cartridge was the issue and needs to be replaced.  If it isn't then, put the black back cartridge in and remove the color cartridge and the test page printed.  If the printer now prints speed the color cartridge is responsible and must be replaced.

• Satellite P100-307 Exchange HARD drive help/advice needed

  Hello

  Thanks for your recent advice on exchanging my 200 GB HDD in to a 500 GB Sized HDD.

  Can you please let me know what I should do with the new HARD disk, so that my P100 can recognize (I format etc.)? I would like the existing to the new mirrored HDD... How does go?

  Sorry to bother you with this beginner Questions...

  RGDS

  Windows will recognize a new hard drive (I assume that you will start the machine from cd) and it has need of formatting it will tell you. You will then need to change the format to FAT32 to NTFS - Windows Help will tell you how to...
  If you are keen on the old disk to the new disk of mirror image, then I think that google some research is in order for example "mirror new portable drive ' there are older versions of disk imaging programs available for free download that will handle NTFS. to search for names include Norton Ghost and Acronis.
  How do you think 'connect' the old and new readers - for example, external usb box on a network, set up two disks on a pc.
  You can copy all the files using the DOS command xcopy with the selector include hidden files/folders.
  Your old drive has a hidden for purposes of recovery partition and you must decide how you manage it.

• Failure of HD or another problem - troubleshooting advice needed

  MacBook Pro 15 inch, early 2011 running OS X El Capitan 10.11.1

  About a week ago I started to notice a considerable following during the time delay of opening the programs, files, and even typing... everything freezes for 2-3 seconds, then I get the beachball for a few seconds to more than a minute. I used the disk utility and checked everything (not verified, no repair required). As I obviously have a problem, I made a Time Machine backup to a WD 1 TB hard drive external and downloaded EtreCheck-2... I ran it at least five times in the course of a few days and whenever he found between 20 and 109 errors and I get unable to drive! Message. If there is a chance the drive is NOT the issue, I want to help out but don't know where to start... since I was a backup Time Machine recently can I wipe the drive and reinstall? Space seems to be a problem... plan to move photos from k 8 currently on my machine to the external hard drive. Also removed apps that I don't use, but I see pieces on the EtreCheck that I can't purge (Motorola, Jaksta). Any advice would be helpful... Most recent EtreCheck shown below.

  EtreCheck version: 2.6.6 (226)

  Report generated on 06/12/15, 21:18

  Hardware Information: (Does that mean?)

  MacBook Pro (15 inch, early 2011)

  MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro8, 2

  1 2.2 GHz Intel Core i7 CPU: 4 strands

  4 GB of RAM expandable

  [Click here for upgrade instructions]

  BANK 0/DIMM0

  OK 2 GB DDR3 1333 MHz

  BANK 1/DIMM0

  OK 2 GB DDR3 1333 MHz

  Bluetooth: Old - transfer/Airdrop2 not supported

  Wireless: en1: 802.11 a/b/g/n

  Battery: Health = Normal - Cycle count = 618 - SN = D863372R1EKDGDLBC

  Video information: (Does that mean?)

  Intel HD Graphics 3000

  Color LCD 1440 x 900

  AMD Radeon HD 6750M - VRAM: 1024 MB

  Software: (Does that mean?)

  OS X El Capitan 10.11.1 (B 15, 42) - since the starting time: 9 hours

  Disc information: (Does that mean?)

  Hitachi HTS725050A9A362 disk0: (500,11 GB) (rotation)

  EFI (disk0s1) : 210 MB

  HD (disk0s3) [recovery] recovery: 650 MB

  Macintosh HD (disk 1) /: 498,88 (Go 372,89 free) - 109 errors

  Drive failure!

  Storage of carrots: disk0s2 499.25 GB Online

  MATSHITADVD-R UJ-898)

  USB information: (Does that mean?)

  Computer, Inc. Apple IR receiver.

  Apple Inc. FaceTime HD camera (built-in)

  Apple Inc. Apple keyboard / Trackpad

  Apple Inc. BRCM2070 hub.

  Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB host controller.

  Lightning information: (Does that mean?)

  Apple Inc. Thunderbolt_bus.

  Guardian: (Does that mean?)

  Mac App Store and identified developers

  Kernel extensions: (Does that mean?)

  / System/Library/Extensions

  [no charge] com.motorola - mobility.driver.MotMobileUSB (1.2.2 - 10.5 SDK) [click for support]

  [no charge] com.plantsense.plantsmart.codelesskext (1.0.1d1) [click to support]

  /System/Library/Extensions/MotMobileUSB.kext/contents/plugins

  [no charge] com.motorola - mobility.driver.MotMobileMS (1.0.0 - 10.5 SDK) [click for support]

  [no charge] com.motorola - mobility.driver.MotMobileMTP (1.2.2 - 10.5 SDK) [click for support]

  [no charge] com.motorola - mobility.driver.MotMobileUSBLAN (1.2.2 - 10.5 SDK) [click for support]

  [no charge] com.motorola - mobility.driver.MotMobileUSBLANMerge (1.2.2 - 10.5 SDK) [click for support]

  [no charge] com.motorola - mobility.driver.MotMobileUSBSwch (1.2.2 - 10.5 SDK) [click for support]

  Startup items: (Does that mean?)

  Jaksta: Path: / Library/StartupItems/Jaksta

  Startup items are obsolete in OS X Yosemite

  Launch officers: (Does that mean?)

  [loading] com.adobe.AAM.Updater - 1.0.plist [click to support]

  [loading] com.coupons.coupond.plist [click to support]

  [out] com.motorola.MDMUpdater.plist [click for support] [click for more information]

  [operation] com.motorola.motohelper.plist [click to support]

  [loading] com.motorola.motohelperUpdater.plist [click to support]

  [loading] com.oracle.java.Java - Updater.plist [click to support]

  Launch demons: (Does that mean?)

  [loading] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist [click to support]

  [loading] com.malwarebytes.MBAMHelperTool.plist [click to support]

  [loading] com.microsoft.office.licensing.helper.plist [click to support]

  [operation] com.motorola - mobility.mmcfgd.plist [click to support]

  [loading] com.oracle.java.Helper - Tool.plist [click to support]

  [loading] com.oracle.java.JavaUpdateHelper.plist [click to support]

  User launch officers: (Does that mean?)

  [loading] com.adobe.ARM. [...]. plist [click for support]

  com.apple.CSConfigDotMacCert [fail]-[...] @me.com - SharedServices.Agent.plist -/System/Library/Frameworks/CoreServices.framework/Frameworks/OSServices.framewo rk/Versions/A/support/CSConfigDotMacCert: Executable not found!

  [loading] com.google.keystone.agent.plist [click to support]

  Items in user login: (Does that mean?)

  Google Drive hidden UNKNOWN (missing value)

  Hidden AdobeResourceSynchronizer Application (/ Applications/Adobe Reader.app/Contents/Support/AdobeResourceSynchronizer.app)

  SmileboxTray hidden UNKNOWN (missing value)

  Other applications: (Does that mean?)

  [ongoing] com.etresoft.EtreCheck.46752

  [ongoing] JP.co.Canon.cijscannerregister.80352

  Plug-ins Internet: (Does that mean?)

  JavaAppletPlugin: Version: Java 8 update 60 build 27 check version

  npRevTraxPrintMyCoupon: Version: RevTraxPrintMyCoupon_x86_64 1.0.0.0 - 10.9 SDK [click for support]

  CouponPrinterPluginMac1.0.0.7: Version: CouponPrinterPluginMac 1.0.0.4 - SDK 10.7 [click for support]

  Unity Web Player: Version: UnityPlayer version 4.1.2f1 [click to support]

  Default browser: Version: 601 - SDK 10.11

  Flip4Mac WMV Plugin: Version: 2.4.0.11 [click for support]

  AdobePDFViewerNPAPI: Version: 11.0.13 - 10.6 SDK [click for support]

  FlashPlayer - 10.6: Version: 19.0.0.245 - 10.6 SDK [click for support]

  Silverlight: Version: 5.1.10411.0 - 10.6 SDK [click for support]

  WidevineMediaOptimizer: Version: 6.0.0.12757 - SDK 10.7 [click for support]

  QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3

  Flash Player: Version: 19.0.0.245 - 10.6 SDK [click for support]

  iPhotoPhotocast: Version: 7.0 - 10.7 SDK

  SharePointBrowserPlugin: Version: 14.5.8 - 10.6 SDK [click for support]

  AdobePDFViewer: Version: 11.0.13 - 10.6 SDK [click for support]

  CouponPrinter-FireFox_v2: Version: 5.0.7 - 10.6 SDK [click for support]

  GarminGpsControl: Version: 4.2.0.0 - SDK 10.8 [click for support]

  DirectorShockwave: Version: 11.6.3r633 [click to support]

  User Plug-ins internet: (Does that mean?)

  CitrixOnlineWebDeploymentPlugin: Version: 1.0.94 [click to support]

  npBcsMcTcIO: Version: Unknown [click for support]

  Safari xtensions: (Does that mean?)

  Add to the list of Amazon gift

  3rd party preference panes: (Does that mean?)

  Flash Player [click for support]

  Flip4Mac WMV [click for support]

  Java [click for support]

  PlantSmart [click to support]

  Time Machine: (Does that mean?)

  Skip system files: No.

  Mobile backups: OFF

  Automatic backup: NON - automatic backup disabled

  Volumes to back up:

  Macintosh HD: Disc size: 498,88 GB disc used: 125,98 GB

  Destinations:

  My passport [Local]

  Total size: 999,83 GB

  Total number of backups: 3

  An older backup: 05/12/15, 22:08

  Last backup: 05/12/15, 23:39

  Size of backup drive: adequate

  Backup size GB 999,83 > (disc 125,98 GB X 3)

  Top of page process CPU: (Does that mean?)

  10% systemstatsd

  7% WindowServer

  1% kernel_task

  1% fontd

  0% com.apple.WebKit.WebContent (2)

  Top of page process of memory: (Does that mean?)

  Kernel_task 468 MB

  348 MB com.apple.WebKit.WebContent (2)

  Mail 106 MB

  Mdworker (5) 98 MB

  WindowServer 94 MB

  Virtual memory information: (Does that mean?)

  325 MB free RAM

  3.67 GB RAM (1.27 GB being cached) used

  18 MB used Swap

  Diagnostic information: (Does that mean?)

  6 December 2015, 11:54:30 self-test - spent

  You will need to replace the hard drive.

• Defective spare battery - seller says I need to update BIOS - advice needed

  Any advice will be appreciated.

  I bought a spare online battery for my laptop. Since the replacement of the battery, the PC has increased its noise level (IE more often that otherwise seems overwork), so I did a "HP Battery Check" and the result States "one or several cells don't work properly. I contacted the seller, and they say I need to update my BIOS.

  I'm a little worried about it for several reasons:
  1. the software clearly indicates that the battery is not working properly.
  2. the computer and all other software works well.
  3. I have never played with before BIOS and after googling "update of the BIOS", almost all suggest "DO NOT go" unless: you know what you do / the problem is clearly a related problem of BIOS (HP State diagnostics is the battery... and shows no system other problems).

  I'm ok with the replacement of hard drives, RAM etc and treat fairly confident with most software and hardware problems, but I never tried to update a BIOS... and as I need my laptop (and all software running on this subject at the moment) and do not want to go through the stress of venturing into uncharted territory on a current PC - I'm more tempted to just buy another battery from a different company and put this to a bad experience online, as the seller does not simply want for refund or Exchange (as much as the cost of replacing the battery... still!... compared to the opening of a world of problems after trying to update a BIOS which seems to work very well anyway!).

  As I said, any advice would be really appreciated

  Thanks in advance

  James

  PS No. knew software or hardware has been installed since the replacement of the battery

  Details of the laptop: HP G70 111EA laptop, Intel Core Duo T5800 @ 2.00 GHz, 3 GB RAM, Vista Home Premium (32 bit).

  If the purchased battery has been specified in the appropriate type for your computer, I see no reason why a BIOS update would make a difference. More likely, the seller hope you will turn your computer into a brick by updating the BIOS, making it a moot issue bad battery.

  Before you start, I would do anything I can to put in place from an outside source if the battery is actually defective. If you do not know someone with a similar laptop, a computer store or from taking the battery might check what said you that your software. A bad cell in a battery is usually obvious by a voltage drop so that the battery either distributes the specified voltage or it is not.

  If the battery is really bad, they know you ship the battery to them (signature required) and then proceed to cancel any credit card (or other method of payment online product/service) charges. While online sales generally operate at profit margins very tight, which, in itself, does not not to honour a request for an exchange of the product. Stop payment on an item usually attracts attention.

• Advice needed for "Autorun at startup" setting

  Hey all,.

  Need some advice on how to do the following.

  I have my java application that updates daily image home screen with the image of Bing of the day. The user interface of the application has an option to activate this automatic function on and outside. At the exit of the app, it checks this parameter, and if it is turned on it starts a background thread that strives to update the home screen. (There is one application of work these features.) So no separate app works as the demon).

  The problem arises on resetting the device, there is nothing to start the demon, because which is managed out of the application. So, I need somehow set up the application so that when the system starts, it checks for this setting and if it is turned on it starts the background thread, otherwise does nothing.

  I hope I'm being clear. So immediately the "Autorun at startup" option in the file descriptor application jumped on me, but if I use it, what can I put in the application to check the value of the parameter, and where this start is handled? Or I think this bad situation?

  Thank you

  Theodore M

  If you only want the interface user started, then you need from one door, with specified auto-start.  Just make sure that the BlackBerry is fully started before trying anything:

  http://supportforums.BlackBerry.com/T5/Java-development/write-safe-initialization-code/Ta-p/444795

  And make sure that you start in the background.  Then by clicking on the icon will bring you app in the foreground.  You will need to make sure that when you close the app, instead of close, just put your application in the background.

  Who is?

• advice needed on the construction of a lab NSX (topology)

  Hi all

  I am currently building a nice vSphere lab to test the NSX.

  When I look around (on the web), I see different configurations and there are two scenarios that I'm doubting everything and I need your advice, which is better to use and why:

  Configuration of the Lab 1:

  • 1 x Compute Cluster with three host ESX (Compute Cluster A)
  • 1 x Compute Cluster with three host ESX (Compute Cluster (B)
  • 1 x management & Cluster Edge with two host ESX (M & E Cluster)
  • 1 x Distributed Switch that runs through all the Clusters and hosts

  Configuration of the Lab 2:

  • 1 x Compute Cluster with three host ESX (Compute Cluster A)
  • 1 x Compute Cluster with three host ESX (Compute Cluster (B)
  • 1 x management & Cluster Edge with two host ESX (M & E Cluster)
  • 1 x Distributed Switch run across Clusters of calculation A + B
  • 1 x switch distributed across the Management & Cluster Edge (M & E Cluster)

  
  

  The difference between the two is that in the #1 I use only 1 Distributed Switch and in #2 I use two.

  
  

  But I'm having difficulties to determine WHY I'd go for #1 or #2, because the two configurations seem valid to the me.

  
  

  Of you please explain be what is the best way to go, and why this is?
  

  All advice is appreciated.

  A key factor is that you can only create a single dvPortgroup to transport VXLAN by VDS. If you can often treat him differently through the clusters - for example (in production) LACP for compute clusters of active failover / standby and then to the Edge cluster. There is good coverage in the NSX - v design around this guide. So as a starting point, it gives you flexibility in how you treat this portgroup if you have more than one VDS. Another aspect could be if you need run so your transport VXLAN on L3 and would like to use another tag VLAN on the portgroup to different sets of hosts. In a laboratory he perhaps won't be much inside according to the depth you want your test to go...

• iPad says inaccessible start advice

  ematic ipad said accessible boot device

  need to know what to do with the ipad to fix when he says start-up inaccessible used open upwards

• Advice needed on scanning and organization of large amounts of family photos

  I have about 4000 photos, I need to digitize and organize, and would appreciate information on the experiences of people with similar projects - specifically what scanners and software editing/organization work well (or not) and why. I am interested in scanning experience, naming, entering in the metadata tags / and storage on an external drive (or drive possible cloud) as effective as possible. I have a MacBook Pro towards 2012, running OS X El Capitan 10.11.6, processor 2.9 GHz Intel Core i7 with 8 GB 1600 Mhz DDr2 memory

  I waited for someone to answer, but no luck so far.

  I think that, maybe, the question is too broad, but you hit on a lot of issues that I tried to respond in support of my own digitization projects. These are essentially old photos and family concert tickets, I've gathered that I want to geocode instead and add an event date to sort the pictures correctly in my reader, I now use pictures all to also store the main images in the form of files in folders.

  One of the first things that you need to consider what is my final use, how will be I be display these carelessly or what their final destination, that is to say: the screen or print. Next, you will need to examine and decide what are your basic quality standards.  Is it an archiving project where you might want to get the maximum resolution to capture your images or you are looking for very high resolution - pixel specific pick - and go deep with it.  What types of files you save; jpg or RAW or another.

  Don't forget the file type is like a box and the picture is in the box, you can have the same image quality in each type of file and each has positive points and negatives, jpgs are the most common, can display high-quality, but at the root with loss.

  It is to you and how you want to store, manage and share.  You could take a sweeping super high ground - better as your scanner may take - and a large jpg copy for sharing, etc.

  Depending on how you answer the above, in terms of desired scan quality, will affect what kind of scanner that you buy. I used several descent average range flat scanners, a versatile case and a wand at a crossing through of dock that I just got.

  I decided quite a while that I'm not in the business of archive I'm in enjoy it there and share business. IF they look good in an email or on Facebook or on my big screen as screensaver, even for the large TV. Then, I have what I need. It is for me. Others feel differently. For me in the end, it's the time it took to take a sweeping super high quality in order to get an image, which overwhelms my screen and has a huge file size. You have to play and see what works for you.

  I just got this scanner wand 1200 dpi with a dock charger and it quickly arranged a pile of concert tickets at its highest quality of scanning. I was happy with the initial results and I can't wait to make some pictures.

  There are a lot of details, you can enter each of these topics, but here you say basically software that controls the scanner. On a flat bed I hope you can scan several small images at once by selecting them in the program. You select the output resolution, file type, and can perform a variety of other adjustments to the image, which some will be dictated by the source.  As the digitization of old photos 'black and white' in color.

  You will need to consider certain issues of workflow here, the scanner software will generally look to create file names to sequential access to what you are scanning. If it's a large image at a time, you can name each or there may wish to work through a lot of dimensions and similar features and then mess with the baptism and the meta data later.  You will find what works best for you as enter you.

  You have now all these files. For me, it was ticket_1 - 90.jpg who had to have their date, time and locations adjusted. I've been messing around with photos of geocoding for years and so far my favorite geogocder and meta-data tool is called photolinker http://www.earlyinnovations.com/photolinker/ that I started using it because I was using a geo - stay with my regular camera and I wanted to match the Geo-trail of the recorder for pictures and this tool does that very well , with tools for helpsync the time of the image and geolog times. or you can give it an address or a city or a block and he will score as many images you select. It will give them a geocode latitude and longitude (altitude in some cases) as well as the metadata for the region city of the State, etc.

  It also gives you quick access to metadata, including tiles, descriptions, keywords, etc. and I do as well of this titration and marking here as I can. as well as the geocoding.  Dates are a very special case that I will come back soon.

  So analysis stuff you give a whole bunch of files and you need to decide how you want to sort and store them. My family photos I usually sort in events and it is pretty easy because the images were of particular type of event and then something holidays. So I in my folder of photos folders called things like:

  1909 - Granma baby pictures

  1931_12_25-moms first Christmas.

  1952_07_21-dad comes from the service.

  etc with this kind of naming structure. months of the year and day, if I know that it and the event.

  The photos then if there are few have specific names for files. If it is more like '1986_07-Florida_ #1-72' and let the meter. If I can be precise date in each event, I try to do, since we are talking about scans and no pictures of digital cameras, if the clock is set right and phones that capture this info.

  The deal with dates, as I mentioned earlier, can be a mess and I have found no real primer on how best to define and manage the dates on scanned images, but here is a part from what I understand. First of all remember that the dates of creation and modification in your finder associated with the file that contains the image, but not necessarily the image itself. Each image also has various sets of metadata that is stored with the images, called EXIFdata, this is where you find the geocoded and other data type keyword, you may be added, such as discussed above.

  As I said I have use pictures formerly iPhoto to see my images now and it does not always play nice with dates, but I think I understood now that it uses a date edit EXIF, to place images in the long scenario.

  Other non-traditional software I use for batch file renamed and full playback and editing of EXIF data are GraphicConverter 10 adata-and-more-on-your-mac/ https://www.lemkesoft.de/en/image-editing-slideshow-browser-batch-conversion-met

  This should be a lot of things to get started, I've always wanted to write that down and happy to now have at hand. Many men of straw - for people to start to sting to, assisting us on the tools and means better or different. I hope. I also hope that this help find you your first steps. Good luck.

• R100: FDISK - simple advice needed...

  Hey peeps, need for basic assistance on obtaining a R100 Tosh started, she came back to me after Win2k on it by a former user and im trying to rebuild on XP.

  I have FDISK would be the drive because there is sensitive data present and created a primary partition of C, start the Xp Cd brings to the top of the blue screen of death after going through the normal configuration bits.

  I tried spinning round with a USB plextor nothing helped, so I need to get the boot from cd pcmcia r100 and so he can go through the xp install everything without crashing.

  Of course, this is a common question but could not find a reference to it here, appreciate all responses pointing me in the right direction...

  Thank you Neil'os...

  Hello

  As far as I know this camera comes with Windows XP Home edition Professional. You have the original recovery CD and Toshiba PCMCIA reader eternal? On this path, the installation will be easy. Otherwise, it can be very complicated. Original restore CD contains the correct driver for the external device from Toshiba.

  If you have two partitions on the HARD disk are trying to copy the facilities on the second CD and start from there.

• Qosmio G20 - RAM and GDD upgrade advice needed

  Hi all

  I have decided to try to give my old g20 renewed life with a few updates, but could do with a few tips before you start to throw money at it.
  The first and most obvious update will install two sticks of 1 GB memory and I was thinking about crossing the old hard disk of 80 GB 5400 RPM to something big and I hope more quickly as a 320 GB 7200 RPM, any advice on this would be appreciated because I don't know if this is possible.

  I was also wondering if the cpu can be upgraded and if someone knew were I could get a new mine cpu fan has become noisy.

  Thanks for you time all tips, ideas and input would be much appreciated.

  2 x 1 GB RAM will be fine. You must use the RAM that has the same speed and timings of CASE/RAS similar as the original of the RAM. Avoid the "Value RAM."

  With respect to the HARD disk, a 120 GB should certainly work, but 320 GB * could * be too large depending on what the Chipset and BIOS can support. Maybe an other G20 owner here it can confirm works, or search the Qosmio for "HARD drive" section

  With respect to the processor, you must be careful when upgrading it. Look at the other models of the G20 and determine what the CPU the fastest they have. This way you can almost guarantee it will work properly.
  If you install a faster processor is faster than what is available in the range of the G20, may not be detected correctly and the cooling fan isn't able to manage the production of heat, causing the laptop overheats.
  Also, I think that a special utility must be run to calibrate the CPU. In my view, that the ASP have access to this utility. The CPU can run very slowly if this utility is not running.

  An FSL may replace the noisy fans for you and remove any accumulation of dust at the same time.

• Windows Millenium every time I start it needed the date every time

  whenever I start need to put the date and time on it

  Hi Alexander,.

  Unfortunately, Windows Millennium Edition has reached end of support:

  http://www.Microsoft.com/Windows/support/endofsupport.mspx

• Advice needed on the laptop hard drive data recovery.

  Hello

  I was wondering if someone could provide some advice on the recovery of data from an ACER laptop which was held in Microsoft Vista?

  The laptop broke due to the 'PIN' inside the power supply's cable breaking. PC World said that it would cost hundreds of pounds to repair.

  I have some important files saved on the drive hard (backup files conveniently failed too!) and I'd like back them.

  What are my options? Should I seek professional IT useful to do? Or I can try to get files back myself? I currently have a Toshiba laptop that works under XP.

  Hello Chris,

  I by removing the hard drive and put it in a USB enclosure. There are 2 types of one HD is IDE the other is SATA. You can buy one from Newegg.com for less than $ 15. You may need to take possession of the disc and its files if you do this. Here are the steps: to take ownership of a file or a folder how to appropriate a file you must have owner of a protected file to access. If another user has restricted access and you are the computer administrator, you can access the file to appropriate.

  To take ownership of a file, follow these steps:

  1. Right click on the file that you want to take control and then click Properties.
  2. Click on the Security tab, and then click OK in the security message (if one appears).
  3. Click Advanced, and then click the owner tab.
  4. In the name list, click administrator, or click the Administrators group, and then click OK.
     The administrator or the Administrators group now owns the file.

  To change the permissions on the file that you now own, follow these steps:

  1. Click on Add.
  2. In the list enter the object names to select (examples) , type the user or group account that you want to have access to the file. For example, type administrator.
  3. Click OK.
  4. In the group or user names list, click the account you want, and then select the check boxes of the permissions you want to assign to this user.
  5. When you're done to assign permissions, click OK.
  6. You can now access the file.

  How to capture a record you must have ownership of a protected folder to access. If another user has restricted access and you are the computer administrator, you can access the folder by taking possession.

  To take ownership of a folder, follow these steps:

  1. Right click on the folder that you want to take control and then click Properties.
  2. Click on the Security tab, and then click OK in the security message (if one appears).
  3. Click Advanced, and then click the owner tab.
  4. In the name list, click your user name, click administrator if you are logged in as administrator, or click the Administrators group. If you want to take ownership of the contents of the folder, select the check box Replace owner of subcontainers and objects .
  5. Click OKand then click Yes when you receive the following message is displayed:
     You are not allowed to read the contents of directory folder name. Do you want to replace the the directory permissions with permissions granting you full control?

     All permissions will be replaced if you click Yes. Note folder_name is the name of the folder you want to take charge.

  6. Click OK, and then reapply the permissions and security settings that you want for the folder and its contents.

  Let us know whether, if that helps you. Make it a great day!

  "In the end, the love you take, is equal to the Love You Make"

• Improvement of the reception of the WAP54G - advice needed

  Hi, I got hung a pair of units WAP54G, down the bridge of 100 meters from our House, in a holiday home.  One is connected to our router, the second is in the remote region, with a switch, then a third WAP54G distribute the signal in this remote area.

  This set works like a charm, BUT as it is a holiday home, we really need to put out of sight, bridge unit in the loft.  For the moment that it is in the direct line of sight to another unit, they are both on the window sills.  It's OK, but we'd like to get the second bridge out of sight to keep people from bothering with it.  I tried to put in the same position as on the windowsill, but in the loft, where he is originally of cladding (no brick etc, just wood and plastic), but he can't see the other device when it is in this position.

  Are there branches that I would be able to buy to give a better reception on this bridge? Ideally I'd like a pair of outdoor units I can screw to the wall on the respective buildings and then put a short cable (2-3metres) back inside the units.  This brings me to the second part of the query - boxes have two antennas on the back of them.  When I set up an antenna to gain high only just leave the second OEM stick to the back of the unit, or what? If these antennas be deployed as symmetrical pairs, or anything like that?

  I'm really happy for the operation of the system, on the whole, I want just a small extra reception!

  Thanks much for any reply and the advice on that.

  There are a number of commercially available external antennas. Anything with 7dbi or better should work fine. The connector is referred to as a RP - TNC

  Just mount the WAP54G near the antenna in order to reduce the length of antenna cable and mount the external antenna (outdoor) on the map of the barge and your outside.

  Get power and Ethernet for the WAP54G should be very simple.

  Concerning

  Fred

• Cooling, it is good or bad for the Z5? Advice needed!

  Hi Sony'enthousiasts.

  I love my Sony Xperia Z5. It's a great phone! However, it becomes warm, especially during a hot summer day while using intensely or full sun! Just to be clear, my phone is not overheating.

  The problem:

  The problem is with the battery-life/performative and put in charge while the unit is hot. My phone seems slower load and unload faster when it's hot. Even the closing apps, the screen turns off / stand-by and restart the device do not change the apparent slowdown of the battery performance.

  Experience:

  Today, my phone was hot enough for heavy use. The battery is almost empty and I started to charge, without great results (just constant heat and a percentage or increase of five).

  I used a cool wet towel to remove heat. The towel was a little cooler than the phone. The body of the Z5 is designed to make the internal parts of the heat so my thought was to use the towel to cool the body of my Z5.

  The result:

  To my surprise, the phone can now be charged temperature as it always does. The performance as well. Of course, I was very happy with the results of this experiment of cooling

  My question:

  In light of this;

  1. you are not stupid (throw the Z5 in a freezer or keep it under water

  2. the difference in temperature is not extreme and the glass of the cracks

  Assists the Z5, with bad cooling for the device or the battery?

  Sony Xperia Support, please share your advice

  @VE_ . in my opinion I think this is a good procedure, but I prefer to cool naturally... but the way you describe it is not too drastic a cooling mode, by report you mention to some posts I saw for the Z complete series of phones to put it in a freezer or droppping in water, a much too sudden drop of temperature & asking for trouble

  I don't see your way of cooling affecting or damage to anything related to the components of the phone... but to point out it is my opinion & not Sonys