Motherboard & component failure

Similar Questions

• Pavilion dv7 - 1243cl: Questions of compensation for the motherboard component

  I have the following related material two 2 for hp experts, and both issues are with respect to the same JBK00 - 4091 P Rev 1 a motherboard, which is installed in a computer hp Pavilion dv7 - 1243 cl laptop:

  Below, I've included a picture that relates to both of my questions.

  QUESTION #1: I accidentally lost a resistance in repair motherboard of my friend. None of the experts know the ohm value of resistance R610?

  As you can probably tell from the image, below, I accidentally ripped out all the pads of twelve 12 pins on the motherboard for FFC connector JP36 (pictured below), so I have to fill each of the connections with wire 30AWG pin connector FFC (JP36). That said, I have been unable to trace the pin #10 connector FFC to any component on the motherboard, so my last question is the following:

  QUESTION #2: Regarding the twelve 12-pin FFC connector as shown in the image below (component no. PCB: JP36), which component pin #10 connects to the motherboard?

  Any help would be DEEPLY appreciated!

  

  I thought about it, so I thought I'd post the answer just in case someone else has the same problem in the future.

  R611 = 0.1 Ω

  R610 = 0.1 Ω

• HP ENVY DV7-7212nr motherboard Possible failure?

  HP DV7-7212nr ENVY

  ------------------------

  • Windows 8 (factory) upgraded to Windows Pro 8.1 thru Windows Store.
  • 8 GB RAM DDR3
  • NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M 2 GB GDDR5
  • 750 GB HARD drive with 32 GB WSSD Cache
  • Ralink RT3290 wireless card (beginning to remove connections a few days before this happened)

  Last night, I was using my laptop normally and he sat to play a game. During the game, he's dead, and not even think, I just returned it to my office for the next day.

  Well, today, I rebooted it and went to turn it on and I have almost nothing! The power light stays on and the hard disk activity is solid for about 2 seconds then turn off. The screen is blank, there is no blinking or beep codes and the WiFi light does not change color indicating that the computer has at least started.

  Being a computer scientist, I removed the RAM and reinstalled it. That did not help. I also tried to boot without the hard drive is connected. That does not help either. I also tried the Win + B BIOS recovery with my hard drive and a USB drive and no luck there dry. The last (possibly) worst part is... I removed the RAM and lit without it and still, no code blink or beep.

  At this point, I believe that my laptop has a failed motherboard, but I'm just checking from now until I have the chance to call HP support if there is anything else I can try. My warranty expires in three weeks only, if at least it happened before, not after.

  In addition, no one knows the direct phone number to the HP support which is on the ground in the USA. I never had a good turn-out speaking with the support of offshore and would like to work with someone who can help me better right off the bat.

  Thank you!

  --------------------
  Please click on "Bravo" to show your appreciation for me.

  If this response worked, please mark this reply as an answer.

  I agree, not getting an error with ram removed is a disturbing sign. With regard to the contact options I suggest filling out the form at the bottom of page. That should give you the choice of phone number or the Chat option to contact Technical Support.

  https://support.HP.com/us-en/contact-HP/product/HP-envy-dv7-7200-notebook-PC-series/5296050/model/5309490

• iPhone 7 backlight of the screen does not

  I was playing around with my new 7 iPhone and after having tested the retina Flash (who makes the screen will Flash White gloss to simulate a flash for the front-facing camera), the screen is totally black. I think the problem is the backlight of the screen because the iphone still unresponsive to commands (with sounds and feedback from taptic) and I can even see whats happening on the screen using a super bright external light. Everyone knows a similar problem?

  I saw the backlight failure with other models. Usually a motherboard component failure.

  Try to do a reset, hold the home button and the power together for 30 seconds or until you see the Apple logo reappears. If this doesn't fix it, then try to restore it. If this doesn't fix it, then you will probably have a problem with the backlight on the motherboard circuit, in which case the phone replaced under warranty.

• Satellite A300-1OM webcam failure

  A week ago the notebook above had a motherboard (fried component) failure while I was on Skype with my webcam in use. A technician managed to fix the motherboard and the laptop is now fully operational with the exception of my built-in webcam which are more detectable by the computer.

  The technician suggested that he may have forgotten to cut the cable of the webcam in his motherboard slot when put the laptop back together. Since I'm capable of dismantling of the majority of my laptop, I want to check it myself to save time two round-trip to the store of the computer again. Does anyone know where I should look in Notepad (illustrations would be great) to check the connection of the webcam with the rest of the computer?

  If not, would it be possible that my webcam broke during the original motherboard failure since it was used during the failure of my motherboard? I also checked for drivers to update on the toshiba site, but could not find one for my laptop for Windows 7 64 bit.

  Note, I got Windows 7 64-bit before the crash so I don't think that this is a software problem as for many other Webcam A300 problems posted on this forum.

  Thanks for reading, I hope you can help!

  > Does anyone know where I should look in Notepad (illustrations would be great) to check the connection of the webcam with the rest of the computer?

  Because the webcam is a part of the cover frame and all the cables would be placed behind the plastic cover, you need to remove the cover to access the cables but don t ask me for more details because I m A300 not owner but only the U400 which is equipped with this webcam too

  However, in your case I would risk any damage to laptop, which can happen due to bad disassembly!
  It is perhaps best to s to make a short trip to the service.

  > If not, would it be possible that my webcam broke during the original motherboard failure since it was used during the failure of my motherboard?
  It is also possible, but in this case, the technician who replaced the motherboard should be responsible for this

• Windows 7 Anytime Upgrade from OEM Home Premium to professional

  Yes I'm agree it is OK - a pure and simple update specified in the EULA is not allowed and I even said that in my first post on this topic. That * IS * explained in the EULA.

  Steppenwolff asked what would happen if a component on the computer has failed or otherwise had deformities requiring a replacement and I think who has responded. He asked what if in 3 years I want to go inside my PC because it's quite slow.

  In case you have not noticed, what you've posted above is the 'education Operating System Licensing questions' and we don't discuss licenses for schools. In addition, that the document was last updated 17/10/2005 - well before the Windows 7 EULA was relased to the public and it probably was even not prepared or reviewed by the legal teams at Microsoft. How you can use a document to respond to questions about a contract that has been released to the public almost 3 years later is beyond me. Even in this case, this document clearly States at the top: ' Please Note: this Q & A is only for information purposes.»  Your use of Microsoft software products is governed by the terms and conditions of your license agreement. " and dating back to the EULA I really want to know if I missed something - where he mentions motherboards or even anything on the computer's components, upgrades, or component failures?

  Yes I'm agree it is OK - a pure and simple update specified in the EULA is not allowed and I even said that in my first post on this topic. That * IS * explained in the EULA.

  Stop finding an excuse to prove me wrong, that your information is disinformation, accept it and go, please.
  Andre Da Costa http://adacosta.spaces.live.com http://www.activewin.com

• New retina iMac heats.

  So I just upgraded my MBP to the top of the line 27 inch iMac Retina. In addition to a few minor problems, something that I noticed is the fan noise and heat from the iMac. Of the main reasons that I upgraded was because my MBP would burn my lap (or office) after about 3 minutes and do summer doing nothing more to boot the system. Essentially, the iMac was good. Now have a desktop computer, I decided to try to get a few games on my new computer. I downloaded Steam and booted up Smite. Subject to halfway through a football game, the fan is spent in speed and was clearly audible even on game noise, and when I felt the back of the computer (just below where the stand connects), I noticed that the area around the rear vent has been very warm to the touch. I know that Mac are not necessarily built for the games, but I thought maxing out the graphics processor when I bought the computer don't give me no problem playing a game such as Smite. (Admittedly, my knowledge of specifications and technical stuff is practically zero, so it was just me assuming that.) Should I worry about the computer being hot like this? The computer is less than a week, and I don't want to jeopardise his longevity by burning upwards. If there are ideas about how to prevent overheating without turning to a third party software, that would be great. I just want to know if the computer will be fine this treatment on a regular basis or if I should look back to another computer. Thank you!

  Note: even outside of the game, it is always moderately hot in this area of the computer. Nothing too hot to the touch, but still seems to us excessive as not really using any juice on all programs or substantive functions.

  First do a search on the web and install a controller of temperature on your new iMac.

  I don't know what's available for OS X El Capitan.

  For the time, anything more than 70 degrees C (160 degrees Fahrenheit or greater) is bad.

  I always use a control software of fans for my older iMacs 2009 and 2010.

  Again, do a web search for a software compatible with OS X El Cap control fans.

  Guard SMC fan control always the fans run all the time on my older iMac.

  I have the RPM value (between1500-1700 RPM) kind of feeding my iMac and the GPU diode (these are the hottest components of equipment running in an iMac) stay, more or less, in the range of 45-50 degrees C. This brings time and my hard drive CPU below 40 degrees C (less than 100 degrees Fahrenheit).

  The key is to not to run the internal fans at a speed that transforms them by sucking dust vacuums.

  iMacs heat!

  VERY HOT!

  Apple is too fixed on chassis and quiet computer operation more thin and thinner than on the question of if rather excessive internal heat builds up inside any computer Mac is sufficient to cause the early, premature component failures.

  Heat is the ENEMY of all electronic component small hardware!

  I like the idea of my iMac slow roasting its internal components, AT ALL!

  iMacs is WAY TOO hot for my comfort and too hot to suspected is not that many component failures hardware iMac maybe heat associated with. Premature failure especially in the optical drive, internal hard drive AND GPU early or logic board failures.

  In addition to the implementation of internal fans control software,

  Go out and buy like a small desk fan (something like Vornado fans) and place it in the back near the area that gets the hottest.

  That's what I did and it allows for my iMac run more fees.

  You will not have a silent computer longer, but your iMac will certainly run cooler and, perhaps, to extend its longevity.

  Good luck!

• Begin stripe iMac G5 white lines in normal mode

  Suddenly, I struck out white small vertical lines on my iMac g5 display.

  Start in safe mode, all is ok.

  How can I fix it in normal mode start?

  You could try and see if a reset of the iMac G5 chip power management

  can help; but there is a risk a hardware problem or component failure is

  behind the symptoms you experience in this series of model construction.

  • iMac G5: how to reset the SMU - Apple Support

  If yours is an original iMac G5 reset power management varies; details of the note

  in the above supported the article, about the location of a button on the early model.

  Another article of support on iMac G5 issues, troubleshooting, reset, etc.

  • iMac G5: troubleshooting when your computer won't turn on - Apple Support

  Not sure if a PRAM and NVRAM reset could help because some symptoms may be

  the backlash or LANDAU or power/system management controller reset...

  • How to reset PRAM-NVRAM on your Mac - Apple Support

  Did you try to boot from the installation disc to see if the symptoms in display

  has disappeared? It might mean something in the way of troubleshooting...

  There are possible graphics problem on some models, and some repairs in question

  replacement of parts or with solder flowed again. Some people chose

  Disassemble the unit and heated the graphics card to fix the connection failed.

  And others had problems with power supply capacitor; swollen capacitors are the sign of a

  need replace. and the computer test again to be sure. In addition, if the

  iMac G5 running hot, which may also appear as video gradient. The power

  supplies can be dusty inside, then the computer may need to be cleaned. Any

  thing to do, are to be considered as part of a troubleshooting topic.

  Good luck!

• Satellite 1135 don't start/power on

  Hello everyone,

  I have an old satellite 1135, it worked, then all of a sudden one day when I pressed the power button nothing happened, only the leds at the front flashed like this:

  1 - with battery only, the electric light, battery and LED CD upward for a second and stop, amber Pwr and Batt and green CD.
  2 - with a/c adapter plugged in I get LED display Green a/c is plugged and amber clear Batt showing Batt. is load, but when I press the power button nothing happens

  Anyone know what these indicators?

  Help, please

  Thank you very much

  Hello!

  I completely agree with Akuma. For me it sounds like a motherboard as failure, but you should test another AC/DC adapter too.

  If you need a new motherboard or AC adapter, you can also search on eBay. For old laptops you can get very cheap spare parts.

• Satellite Pro 6000 will not boot

  Hi all

  I have a 6000 Pro Satellite which is quite old, but until yesterday it was working fine. Today, it no longer starts. The lights are on (220v:green / power: Green / battery: orange), but the BIOS or the operating system does not start. Fan does not work either. The FN key seems to work - if I press it, the indicator light below the F11. If I press and hold the power button the power light turns off.

  I removed the battery to see if that would help, but it basically gives the save result (or not).

  Is it possible to do a hard reset? Or is it curtains for this laptop?

  You want to know your opinion on this one.
  JP

  Hello

  Try unplugging the power adapter and remove the battery the laptop for a while leave. Wait 20 - 30 minutes, reconnect all the pieces and try to start.
  If it won't work, I guess the hardware laptop works bad maybe that it s a motherboard (ESF) failure or the CPU.
  Who knows. Without any hardware tests is not easy to know which device is malfunctioning

• The water went in the Satellite P300-133

  Nice day!

  I have a problem because my neighbors in upper flat. They got their apartment flooded because of heating does not, and water entered my laptop Toshiba Satellite P300 133 ruin.

  I went to the authorized service center, they diagnosted motherboard full failure and now want to totally replace and want to charge me 400 usd for motherboard, 130 for labour and 110 for the possible change of keyboard.

  The questions are:

  -a complete failure of the motherboard under this scenario is realistic?
  -is it possible to get cheaper motherboard (maybe used) you?
  There's something that can be changed under standard warranty? (it's still about it)

  Kind regards
  Tigran

  Hi Tigran,

  Oh, really not good news of s but I think that this could happen from time to time...

  > complete failure of the motherboard under this scenario is realistic?
  That s very realistic! Friend of me has had the same problem and the authorized service provider also exchanged the motherboard together because it of not possible to Exchange only a few unique pieces on a motherboard.

  > is it possible to get cheaper motherboard (maybe used) you?
  What you mean? Here you can talk only with normal users and I don t see anyone Toshiba directly here.
  The only option is to order a motherboard of second hand on eBay

  > is there something that can be changed under standard warranty? (it's still about it)
  I doubt that
  I mean that s your own faulty and is not a problem of Toshiba. I know that of difficult to hear, but this fact s.

  Finally and most importantly, I think that the prices are ok, because the motherboard is a very expensive part and it also takes a long time to exchange it. This can done in a few minutes, so t he s a bit more expensive.

• 13D-3000 spectrum: spectrum 13D-3000 HP start not at all

  Hello.  I have a laptop of 13 t-3000 HP spectrum.  It is about 2.5 years, in very good condition.  I plugged it in charge to the top of a few nights there, but in the morning it would not start at all.  The only thing that happens is that the power light and the Wifi (F12 key) periodically flash light, every 5 seconds.  The screen does not turn on and is completely black, I don't hear any fan and no other activity of any kind.

  I would like any info or suggestions on what may be wrong.

  I tried a number of things from the web searches.  It is:

  -J' I hold power for 30 seconds to do a "hard reset."  This will stop the flashing.  But if I hit the power again, then the power button / stop and button wifi starts flashing again, but no other activity.

  -J' checked that the battery is fully charged.  The light close to the load port turns orange when I plug in the charger, then after a while, it becomes white to indicate that it is fully charged.  I even put a voltmeter on the power supply to verify that he produced 19.5 Volts.

  -J' removed the bottom cover to check for any bad connection or dust.  There is no dust, and the laptop is extremely clean.

  It was taken by storm the night where I plugged it in to charge, and it was directly connected to the wall.

  Suggestions of how to fix it myself, or what it should cost to someone else to fix this would be appreciated.

  Thank you.

  -Danny

  I just followed on this point, because I've seen similar questions, but never a definitive answer.

  After you call HP Tech support, they told me that the power light flashes & key F12 is a symptom of the motherboard

  failure.  The solution is to change the motherboard.

  My computer came with a warranty of 2 years, but the computer was 2.5 years old, so it was out of warranty.

  After some negotiations on the price, HP has decided to fix the problem for $250, including shipping both ways.

  It's less than a week back including delivery on time and I have the laptop back and it seems to work

  Well now.  I have a 90 day warranty on the repair.  In the future, I'll be careful to always use a surge protector

  When it loads up.

  -Danny

• Its satellite L650-116 problems

  Hello everyone, I'll try to keep this brief and precise.

  A month ago I accidentally knocked a glass of water on my desk. My laptop so ended up in a small pool of water. I immediately raised and noticed that a small amount of water was in the battery compartment. I mopped up the remaining water to leave the laptop to dry for a while.

  Once I turned it on, the sound icon was the circle red/white cross symbol on it. I immediately rebooted my laptop and the sound was upwards of race - but it has been distorted.

  Since then, he has had moments where its quite well is at the time when there is a lot of buzz (sometimes it's more like an old television, cannot find a channel), especially when I play audio files on media players.

  Don't forget the sound of the click short when you increase/decrease the volume of the volume controls? Whenever I do this, I hear a click (distorted), then a gurgling noise.

  You can listen here. https://www.dropbox.com/s/fd9o2fxwlnfynro/speakers.m4a?DL=0

  This is the no buzzing speakers sound-clear click-operation lost its distorted click-regular buzz in buzzing.

  Right speaker seems to have a slightly worse problem and it has always been the case.

  Restart the pc or disabling activation the speakers momentarily, can sometimes, but others do not, improve or worsen the situation.

  Please advise me on what to do, how to look at what etc.

  The problem is the dry salt inside the laptop? Should I worry about any serious material damage?

  Thanks in advance. :)

  If I understand your message, the problem of noise appeared right after the mistake of the spilled water. Before this error everything worked correctly.
  Is this correct?

  From my point of view of the few there are certainly a hardware problem but it of difficult to say what role could be affected.

  I think you should check if the same problems occur using headphones connected.
  In the case where the sound is displayed correctly using headphones, speakers may be affected.

  In the case of the problem of noise appears using the helmet too, well, then there must be a motherboard / his failure to the card.
  In case the sound card is affected, you can try to disable the audio chip in the Device Manager and could use some sort of card external sound as a 3rd party USB module

• Re: Satellite M70-364 will not start

  Hi I have a satellite phone and it does not start. When I press the power button, I get the Toshiba sign, then a white screen. A few seconds later, it goes back to the toshiba screen. I tried another hard drive, but it is always the same. I can enter the bios and checked that it is set to boot from the hard drive and nothing else. But that left me speechless as to what could be the cause of the problem. Any help would be appreciated.

  Post edited by: monkeybhoy

  Hello

  You have a live Windows Cd to try to boot from it?

  > get the sign Toshiba and then a white screen. A few seconds later, it goes back to the toshiba screen. I tried another hard drive
  > but it's always the same thing.

  Makes me think it's motherboard (southbridge) failure. In this case, the entire motherboard must be replaced. Get the live Cd of Windows disc to check

• Satellite Pro L300 freezes on the Toshiba homepage

  When he put on then get frozen screen toshiba so impossible to go to safemode etc...

  Can anyone help?

  Hello

  This means that your laptop can not pass the POST (Power On Self Test).

  Self test is a rapid diagnostic test that checks the motherboard and connected devices
  Theoretically, what could cause this problem faulty motherboard, RAM failure, etc.

  In your case, I recommend you remove the RAM modules and check the simple modules.
  You can try to remove only a single module. Check the two modules by using this procedure

  Otherwise, you will need assistance from professional technician that the guy could run tests to find out what part is malfunctioning...