Noise filter

Similar Questions

• Noise filter (CS6) disorders

  Noise filter disorders (CS6): I am trying to create a pattern of random night sky. I have a black layer, I apply a (monochromatic) noise filter to 135%, then I add an adjustment layer > setting until a few stars are visible (move the black and white sliders). Looks great on the screen, but if I merge the layer or save it in JPG format disappears from the levels adjustment and all the grains of this layer are applied as if it was never there. I go back in photoshop and on the screen seems correct. Any thoughts?

  Hello prescribed,

  Try to view the image at 100% (view > actual Pixels) to get a clear vision of what you are doing.  Some effects and filters (such as noise) not seen accurately and may appear to change when you merge or flatten out.

  Actual Pixels (100% view) means that one pixel of your photo is displayed by a monitor pixel. It is the only way to see what your edit actually looks like.

  A quick way to get to actual Pixels is to double-click on the Zoom tool.

• How to disable the additional noise filter when you use a Lifeproof subwoofer

  I have a 6 s Iphone now with a case of Lifeproof! I was told there is an option of noise or a filter to turn off so that people

  agree on cell?

  Thank you

  Gary

  You have the Lifeproof who says that it is for the 6/6s on the box? Or do you have one that says just the iPhone 6? If you have one that was planned for the iPhone 6, it won't work properly as it covers some things, that he should not.

  You can try to disable the noise suppression. Settings > general > accessibility > telephone noise cancelling.

• CS5 - reduce noise filter or remove JPEG artifact

  Hello

  I use Photoshop CS5 64-bit. Something odd happens when I open the filter noise reduction and select Advanced Options and then put a checkmark in the box to remove JPEG artifacts. Once I do this, if nothing else, two sliders appear below the line to remove JPEG artifacts. The sliders are not labeled or titled and are disabled. I can't find and explanation as to what these might be for and why they appear not until after you do something else in the filter after checking remove JPEG artifacts. Any info or ideas appreciated.

  These seem to draw objects where the sliders of the tab "with the string" are not correctly hidden because the filter is not the tabs in the right order. I can repro on my system as well. Well well, another for developers of Adobe to fix, but nothing to worry about.

  Mylenium

• Audible clicks of noise generation/acquisition vi

  Hey everybody!

  Fast facts:

  I'm doing a vi to perform measurements of room acoustics.  The goal is to apply white noise octave band filtered in a room until a level of balance is reached, then turn off the sound source and measure the decay of the sound field in the room.  So, my vi generates white noise, filter by octave specified parameters, at the same time sends the output and begins data acquisition using DAQ assistant 2 blocks (both caused by an external function generator).  I put the exit exit DAQ assistant N samples (same number as generated by the simulation signal block) and the acquisition of input data is set to acquire more samples that block signalling simulation generates so that I continue to acquire the signal after speaker cuts wide and measure the sound field decomposition in the room.

  The problem:

  The vi works perfectly except that when the speaker pauses at the end of the N samples is a notable very audible click, which must correspond to a kind of tip in the single output at the end of my example output N.  It is a big problem because it will change my measurements of the disintegration of his field. (see Appendix 1 for a screenshot of my vi)

  I tried unsuccessfully to solutions:

  (1) I thought that the click can be caused by sharply cutting the signal of excitement, so I tried to insert a block window to give a smooth envelope at the beginning and end of my signal.  The envelope fainted at the volume at well, but there was still a noticeable click and the end of the exit (after closing fade).

  (2) I tried to zero-pad to the end of the signal, thinking that I might be able to output a signal of amplitude zero while I measure the decay curve and I hope to delay the inevitable apparently, then click on until I have capture my data.  However, when I do this, my production Assistant DAQ gives me an error that the sample rate is 1 and the valid range of sampling frequencies are 800 1000 to 204.  Apparently the DAQ output is sent a single sample of my table of output data.  (see 2nd screenshot below)

  I'm really puzzled, so any help would be greatly appreciated.  Be it a way to correctly implement my solution #2 from above, a new method to get rid or delay the click, or if someone can point me to an existing vi that will perform the functions of noise-excitation/acquisition that I need.

  FYI, the material is a PXI-4461.

  Thanks in advance!

  Michael K

  Here's the code to 9.0. As I said I have not tested, because I have no data on this PC acquisition unit

• Noise thermocouple with PCI-6230

  What level of noise should be expected for a K type thermocouple used with an acquisition of data PCI-6230 and a map derivation CB-37F-HVD? I read the data with LabVIEW and Daq Assist module on the setting of the thermocouple and the noise see of +/-1 ° C. For a type thermocouple K 41uV / ° C is 3 times the 6230 noise expected (13 uVrms) runs around 0.2 full scale. I think it should be more stable measures or is this a normal behavior?

  http://sine.NI.com/DS/app/doc/p/ID/DS-31/lang/en

  Thank you

  Dan

  This level of noise is expected. To improve, you can use a card with a noise filter. A dedicated thermocouple module would also work, but this includes a noise filter as well.

• Spills on BG noise?

  Hello: level: Beginner OS: Windows 7 64 bit Ps: CS6

  I've been through half A * d tutorial (to make an iPad), which has been a huge part of my problem...

  The UTU would tell to do things we could not do - so I'd find another way... which, I believe, created problems

  When I makes me do the iPad and then tried to group my layers in some order...

  Noise (filter) I used on the shape of the hand of the iPad spilled his clipping mask and the layer of BG...

  or in fact on all aspects of the iPad

  I'm assuming correctly that after moving layers and you put them in groups somehow disturbed the clipping mask?

  I read that I can make a new group and then just drag the layers to the folder

  However, I could not find something in the manual about what to do when penetrating the layers new groups will not...

  Well, any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

  Hope all is well and thank you very much for your time!

  Kar, the background noise is in the first bottomlayer, named "degraded Radial BG". Hide all other layers to prove that. I guess that you have accidentally applied a "add noise" filter to this layer at a given time.

• Problem with keyboard shortcuts in the filter dialog boxes - CS5 64-bit Windows 7

  While in the filter > sharpening > Unsharp Mask dialog box, I hit the < SPACEBAR > to get the hand in vain tool the screen cursor change cursor default 'box' so I tried again and still no change until I moved the mouse. then only the hand familiar tool icon appeared.  Good, so I then used hand tools, using the mouse to reposition my opinion and released the left mouse button, but the tool hand cursor remained on the screen until I moved the mouse again.  I have experienced the same problem (always in the filter > sharpening > dialogue emphasis) with the shortcuts of the Zoom tool using the ctl <>and < alt > key.  Not really a problem of killer but confused, not less.  Holder to try to solve the problem, I have known the exact symptoms same for each of the filter dialog boxes > blur filter > noise, filter > sharpness, filter > aesthetic and filter > other.  I also have Photoshop CS3 installed and all shortcuts work as expected.  Anyone else seeing this odd behavior?

  What you see is a bug.   We have an internal bug on this issue.

• Camileo H10 - White Balancing does not work

  I bought this recorder in December 2008. I tested some records inside, outside and I found, that White Balancing does not work.
  I can put it in automatic or manual, but all videos are little pink. Is this a firmware problem or is it a bad piece? Where can I get the new firmware?

  Thanks for the reply

  Hello Bunak

  Toshiba has released the new update and you can find it on Toshiba support and download page under http://eu.computers.toshiba-europe.com > support & downloads
  On the drivers download page please choose the criteria for follow-up:

  Product type options
  Family digital Imagin
  Range of digital video cameras
  Camileo H10 model
  OS operating system practice
  Type of driver Firmware update

  So here you can find the update to Firmware version 1.1. Last modification date is 12/02/08.

  In order to provide the best quality, update Firmware for Camileo H10 results with feature upgrade as follows him.

  1 give input MIC (improve the volume of MIC)
  2. set the focus window (improve the AF)
  3 tune AE to avoid exposure
  4 tune matrix color and saturation (performance of color)
  5. set the noise filter (improve the noise level)
  6. grant WB (improve the AWB)
  7 change the string from the user interface in CZ

  Here the steps how to upgrade the F/W (Firmware):

  First of all, there are two different language version of the UI (User Interface) of the EU & UK and EEMEA version. Please select the appropriate according to your language file instead.

  -EU & UK F/W version 1.1 include: English, Deutsch, Español, Português, Italiano and French, Dutch
  -EAST F/W version 1.1 include: English, Czech, Greek, Hungarian, Polish, Russian, Turkish, Slovak

  * Files of F/W 1.Copy to an SD card *.
  -Format SD card. Make sure that the FAT file system is selected before formatting.
  -Copy the F/W (zburnT_C10.run.elf and DCIM folder) files in the root directory of the SD card
  (PS: there is another folder and file in the DCIM folder, please, do not change the content of this)
  DCIM folder)

  * 2. Firmware Update (Please make sure of course he didn't is no battery inside the unit and the power adapter is not connected to the camera) *.
  -Open the Panel first
  -Insert the SD card which has the F/W files
  -Insert the battery (make sure that the battery is full), then plug the power adapter to the camera.
  -Press the shutter button when the message press shutter to update to start the update process. During the F/W update of the LED will keep flashing. Do not remove the battery or disconnect the AC adapter during this operation, otherwise the camera will be damaged.

  * 3. Update has been completed *.
  -The LED will stop flashing once the firmware update completed (Please make sure that the flashing stop light)
  -Restart the unit remove before adapter, the battery and the SD card in camera in order to avoid the firmware update again.
  -Upgrade of the F/W was over.

  Please follow these steps and let me know if everything is Ok now.

  Good luck!

• Problem with the electric guitar and Satellite A100-906

  Hello

  I get a strange sharp sound of my guitar amp speaker when I try to play starting from the monitor of my laptop. Is this normal? I used to play in front of a screen LCD LG and everything was nice and quiet.

  However a few minutes ago, I discovered the FL inverter, which exists in the monitor to my laptop and was not on my LCD. FL-ups would cause this noise to my guitar? I want to emphasize that I can not hear the sound of my monitor. I can only hear it through my guitar and the amplifier speaker microphones.

  I hope you understand my problem.
  Looking forward to a response!

  Thank you
  Nikos

  Hello

  I n t have guitar and can't be 100% sure about your question, but perhaps you need a sort of Notebook Surge Station and noise filter. Google a bit and look for info on this filter.

• Camileo H10 - jerky video / flash still fires twice / blurry photos

  Hi please can someone help or advise. I recently bought a Toshiba Camileo H10 digital camcorder and have had some problems with it, I hope someone can help me solve them. First of all, let me start by saying I already updated to the latest firmware from a link someone posted on this firmware, it makes no difference to my questions.

  1. the video is very choppy (stuttery?) and it is most obvious when panoramic autour or zoom in and out. It's worse when you run at higher resolution (HD) and even worse when I turn on the image stabilizer. DV to my laptop from my 10 year Sony digital-8 camcorder video that I captured via a cable are much smoother than the video files I get card memory of the Camileo, with not a lot of difference in the quality. I can do to make it smoother?

  2. when I take a picture in normal flash mode (NO red flash mode) the flash fires twice, and he takes the photo on the 2nd flash... as if it was always flash red-eye mode. There is a delay of about 2 seconds between the flashes, i.e. at the point where the 2nd flash occurs, the subject has already taken the photo was taken and leaves. It seems that he is stuck in mode double-flash red-eye. Yes I certainly change it to red-eye flash in "normal" mode. It does automatic flash mode too. How can I make the camera only trigger the flash once, normal flash mode?

  3. I find it almost impossible to take a photo that does not suffer from blur, regardless of the lighting conditions. Trying to get a clear picture inside (flash enabled or disabled) is almost impossible, and most images outdoors in broad daylight are too blurry. It is impossible to try to get a picture of someone ' one/something thing that moves. It is obviously something to do with the length of exposure, I fixed it to automatic and have tried to change, does not have much difference (and I do not accept the duty to play with the settings, whenever I wanted to take a picture anyway...) It should handle and automatically adjust properly). Anyone know how I can get sharp pictures?

  Thank you very much

  Milo

  Hi guys

  I found this thread on Camileo H10 and the new firmware update:
  http://forums.computers.Toshiba-Europe.com/forums/thread.jspa?threadID=40630&TSTART=0

  Please check because the new firmware update brings new features and improve the quality of the picture, too.

  These are improvements that are provided with the new firmware update:

  1 give input MIC (improve the volume of MIC)
  2. set the focus window (improve the AF)
  3 tune AE to avoid exposure
  4 tune matrix color and saturation (performance of color)
  5. set the noise filter (improve the noise level)
  6. grant WB (improve the AWB)
  7 change the string from the user interface in CZ

  Good bye

• FM converter in LabView. How?

  Hello OR developers!

  I have the sound in frequency modulation (FM) signal with frequency 1000 Hz and 20 Hz, frequency of the signal message. I want the downconvert FM frequency at 200 Hz. I searched through the forum and google and not a nothing found where would at least algorithms, or mathematical equations. How to downconvert FM signal?

  The goal is declining by signal converted to low frequencies where it is easier to the noise filter.

  Thank you in advance!

  It is the solution of my problem. A digital Down-Converter example of FM Signal. Note: That any other signals can be resized too.

• external frequency step-down converter

  Hello

  1. I have a digitizer 5142 with a resolution of 14 (16) bit. can I change this rate of 8-bit scanning, or can I get a signal to 8 bits using 5142 I

  think I can using neither scope config. If yes also means I increased the speed of 200MBS 100MBS (since I am only

  using 8-bit scanning). increases the speed of transfer of the data from my memory shipped to hardisk only or both are applicable

  2 - I read this specification 5142 when I stumbled upon two things that I surrounded as JPG attachments

  a. filter anit-alisasing has a bandwidth of 40 Mhz, and default 5142 uses what it means. Can I use

  some other external down converter instead of 5600 and which can acqiure 40 Mhz bandwidth at any center frequency and I can feed to

  5142 to get digitized and writre a file on my disk. .i can't use DAMA since I use a step-down external frequency converter. How using or

  scope/tuner vi.

  (b) the other is true flat bandwidth = 0.4 * rate and bandwidth flat complex sample = 0.8 * sampling frequency that we mean by these two.

  Concerning

  MADD

  Hi malala.

  1. correct me if I'm wrong. Insofar as I have defended frequency translation means that if I have acquired a signal at 50 MHZ with a 40 MHZ Bandwidth (F_high = 70 Mhz and F_low = 30 Mhz). My frequency step-down converter. If I select the option enable translation frequency and frequency set to 20 MHZ (option to activate with the SDC thus) signal that I have gained is now translated to 20 MHz (C.F), the maximum frequency to 40 Mhz and Minimum to 0 Mhz. Is it so? If this is correct, then I think that my Ghost will meet the requirement of the spectrum of nyquist and won't be mitigated...

  Not quite fact-frequency translation used to take your signal of a certain frequency IF complex base band (centered around 0 Hz). If you set your frequency of 20 MHz, 20 MHz will tune to your NCO and you will acquire some bandwidth, based on IQ rates, around this central frequency. For example, if you used 20 MHz bandwidth (rate of IQ = 25. MECH / s) and a center frequency of 20 MHz, get you 10 MHz to 30 MHz of frequency and translate this to baseband. Now you have your frequency content at +/-10 MHz.

  To do what you seem to want to do, you must set your frequency to 50 MHz as well as your IQ rate to 1.25xBW = 50 MECH. / s. This will mean your 40 MHz BW from 50 MHz to complex baseband.

  2. also mention that I can put this decimation is property invoke node or filter specifications.

  Decimation is another property of the OSP and the mechanism of the clock. Your decimation is defined by your IQ rate compared to your time base sample clock. For example, by default, we use a time base 100 MECH. / s for the 5142. If I put my IQ rate 2 MECH. / s, I will use a factor of the decimation of 50. Our table of decimation emphasises, however, that, in the range of 12 to 4 096, we can only use decimation integers that are multiples of four. So, we will eventually be forced in this case to 48 and a sampling rate of 2.0833 MECH. / s. You can then perform resampling to 2 MECH. / s in the software.

  3 - something else enable and disable the noise/anti-aliasing filter. Combination of maximum frequency of niscope configuration characteristic.vi. If I put it in noise filter 20 Mhz is on now and when I started 35 Mhz filter anti-aliasing is enabled. Is it so?

  That's right - your maximum frequency setting to be in one of these filters will allow this way. If I put a maximum frequency of 19 MHz, the filter is activated. If I put a max of 30 MHz frequency, the Anti-aliasing filter is enabled. 0 will default, and -1 will allow full BW.

  Kind regards

• Where to buy Canon original accessories?

  Original boxes with some accessories for my new purchase. 7 d Mk2 and 24 70 F4IS have been taken by someone from my front porch. (My bad. I updated snow Canon boxes inside a box of snowblower. The big box was left outside the porch waiting for sorting for the elimination, and he disappeared in an hour)

  Now I have just the camera and the lens more chargers and caps. Everything else has gone.

  I'm looking to buy everything that is missing. I sent Canon e-store, but received no response from them. Any suggestions where to buy back them protector missing cable, cable USB, disc, sun visor, goal and other case.

  Thanks for all of the shared experience.

  Ouch.  At least you have the camera and the lens back.  First time I read it I thought that those that have been stolen.

  You can go directly to the shop of Canon and should be able to get most of this stuff, but I wouldn't bother.

  Go to Amazon and search for 'EW - 83L'.  You can get a direct official lens hood for Canon for $50, or a generic for $15.  I know what I'd do, but I know that many who should pay the sum of $50.

  I certainly wouldn't buy a cable USB Canon official, not that we exist.  Go to Amazon, and then search for "ferrite of mini USB.  USB cables are cheap and for the most part the same.  Just make sure that it is the nucleus of ferrite (it's a noise filter high frequency).  I have dozens of generic USB cables, none of them with core of ferrite work very well.

  The objective case, if you wish, can be had on eBay for cheap, I'm sure.  You mentioned the snow, which means that you live far away from me, otherwise I would just give you one of mine.  Never seen so much of a use for them.

  You don't have the disk, you can DL anything online:

  http://www.USA.Canon.com/Cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_7d_mark_ii

  No idea what the cable protector is no more, but probably not necessary.

• No sound from the Clip when it is connected to the car charger and car s in the

  I just got a car charger for my 8 GB Clip. I have the Clip connected to the connector of the car aux in, and it plays beautifully this way.

  However, when I connect the car charger, which is a fact by Motorola for a mobile phone, the sound of the Clip completely stops.  There is no sound at all.

  Even if I barely touch the metal of the car charger USB plug to the USB port of the clamp, the sound cuts.

  A ground loop isolator would correct this problem? The comments that I have read of these say all that they helped with motor and alternator noise, but I don't have that.  I have no sound at all, even if the Clip is loaded and he continues to play according to the display of the item.

  I checked the car charger works well because I have a box of jump with a record of 12 VDC (just like in the car).  The cool Clip and plays with a helmet with the Motorola car charger in this configuration very well.

  Any ideas what is wrong and how to fix it?

  Thanks in advance.

  Just for this follow-up, the ground loop isolator completely fixed the problem I had with the sound cutting on my video in the car.

  The one I chose was the PAC SNI-1/3.5 RCA noise filter.  He goes online with 3.5 mm cable to the and has a socket on one end and a plug on the other.  It would have been cool if he had just had two male connectors, because then I could have plugged one side in the Clip and the other in the input of the car Jack.

  There is no significant deterioration in the sound, and now I can load the Clip while listening.