Stamp tool behave very strange

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• Photos for Mac behaves VERY strangely since the upgrade to Sierra

  Hi all.

  I have improved my mid 2010 MacBook Pro for macOS Sierra September 21.

  The first time I launched the Photos app after the upgrade, I got the usual message on photo library updated, but when that reaches 100%, I noticed that he was missing a large number of thumbnails in my library. The photos in question were display in miniature (or 'moments') view as pale gray rectangles with a cloud icon in their breast.

  I don't immediately panic, because I assumed that they would gradually repopulate for a little while. I got "Storage optimize Mac", the value of preferences so all of my original pictures must be in iCloud. I have a Time Capsule, make automatic backups, and I made a backup Time Machine on which, immediately before the upgrade, so I am reasonably confident that I did not really lose my photos, (and all of my pictures and their thumbnails are present & correct on my iPhone).

  But, almost a fortnight after the upgrade, most of my thumb nails is always reported missing since the Photos of Mac application, which makes it very difficult to find pictures of course.

  Last night I noticed that the Photos app showed 'Uploading photos 10 985 nnnnnn' at the foot of the view of the times, with the first digit decreases slowly, so I disabled the options to ensure that my Mac doesn't go to sleep and I let it run until the download was complete energy saving. Then, he showed "updated... "at the foot of the view of the times for a while.

  I was hoping that my thumb nail would be back after that, but they are not!

  It seems that the Photos app is not sync with my iCloud storage, for any reason, or at least if it does not in fact what it has synchronized.

  A double click on these thumbnails blank to open the photo is not consistent either. On some that I try to open, they do not open, and when I return to the thumbnail display the thumbnail is now also. But on others I try to open I just see a completely white area where the photo should be. However (and this is really weird!) when I return to the thumbnail display after those I see very very briefly the photos as they will shrink to the size of the thumbnail, and then they are virgins thumbnails with clouds still...

  I wonder if I should change the preference of Photos of 'optimization of storage' to 'download the originals' in an effort to recover my thumb nails. It seems that I have almost 62 GB of free space on my Mac, and my Gallery of photos shows that there are currently 31GB. Or do I have to re - install the Photos app? (Is it possible?)

  Or is there a better solution to the problem please?

  Thank you for all the helpful tips.

  Post edited by: Steve Zodiac: grammar Correction.

  try to turn a thumbi = nail and reotating back - if it suits it you can do so for groups of up to about 1000 photos at once to correct quickly - how rebuild thumbnails in a photo library

  LN

• Brush tool behave strangely to 8 elements of healing

  Hi - I had just gotten used to the use of this tool. Only thing brilliant but also has its limits, and then suddenly, whenever I use it, it leaves a black spot behind. He cannot explain. Time your finger on the mouse button, it seems to work, but when you release a large black spot appears - I can't work on what I'm doing wrong. Anyone know?

  The corrector is not always the best tool. In some cases, when it heals, you get the purification ceremony.

  Try the Clone Stamp tool in these instances.

  http://help.Adobe.com/en_US/PhotoshopElements/8.0/win/using/WSae2ea3b149d0c3591ae939f10386 0b3d59 - 7ed8_WIN.html

• Very strange problem with quick mask

  Hoping someone can help me with a very strange problem that just started to happen when I enter the quick mask in PS CS5. Let me guide you through the problem.

  (1) I opened my image in PS, go in the Mode mask quick and 'paint' my image in translucent red with a brush (100% of opacity, brush, etc. normal mode).

  

  (2) once I fully painted my picture in translucent red, I leave the Quick Mask mode and the area outside the translucent red is selected. I hit M for the marquee tool, right-click on the picture I have just painted and choose 'Select inverse', which then selects everything within the translucent red area (note that I made this a million times over the years).

  

  (3) my image is now selected. In general, what I do now is cut (cmd + x) that selected the image and paste it into another canvas, generally where is my biggest project. Whenever I did it, the image cuts and fits exactly as it is seen and leaves an empty space in the original image. However, when I cut it now, it seems to cut a transparent version, leaving behind a transparent 'ghost' of the original image.

  

  (4) then when I paste the image cut in a new canvas, it is transparent as a default value.

  

  I checked the transparency of all the paintings, and they are set to 100%. As I already said, I cut from images of no solid media using the quick mask all the time and it's never happened before. In fact, I made this weekend and it has only just begun in the last hour, so I think I clearly something clicked or activated a parameter without realizing account!

  In considering this explanation, I hope someone knows what is causing my pictures to cut and paste transparent after that I used the quick mask. It certainly is driving me crazy!

  Any advice or assistance would be most appreciated.

  Thank you

  In your first screenshot the color of foreground in the Toolbox is not 100% black (RGB 0,0,0)

  Until you try the quick mask, press D to set the foreground on black (RGB 0,0,0)

• Artifacts of the screen when you use the stamp tool

  Has anyone seen this?

  When I use the stamp tool I get all kinds of objects on the screen. Weird thing is when I do a screen recording of it, it's much less obvious but nonetheless still there. If I want to make a screenshot of it he disappears as soon as I touch the screen capture key (cmd-shift-3) or toch any key.

  So I had to take a picture with my phone:

  

  I tested VRAM / my different applications with dedicated GTX680 GPU / benchmarking utilities and results all seem well, games work fine, any application that uses my GPU works very well. Except of course Illustrator, which crashes all the time when you use GPU performance. And now Photoshop.

  A video of these objects can be seen here: http://www.studio57.nl/downloads/PS_Stamp_Sreen_Artifacts.mp4

  I'm on Mac OS X Photoshop CC 2015.1.2 10.11.3, and the last 346.03.05f02 of Web Driver nVidia.

  It seems that it is. I had the form of the word NVIDIA, they were able to reproduce to the issue and they are working on a fix.

  I'm so happy that my hardware is fine and that NVIDIA is still developing drivers for the Mac community!

• Question about settings in Elements 9 Clone Stamp tool

  I am a fairly simplistic user of 9 items on a HP Pavilion dv7 with Windows 9.

  I want to be able to copy small parts of pictures on other parts of the same photos.  I used to be able to do that very well.

  Then, somehow, the box labeled 'Modes' has changed from the default setting.  I need default setting.

  I tried the positions of Modes, but none seem to be the one to copy from one place to the other.

  Any ideas on the reset to the default values for this?

  Thanks for any help on this.

  Larry

  See if the reset of the work of the Clone Stamp tool.

  Click on the small arrow turned downwards as shown below and then click on the reset tool

  

• follow-up Clone Stamp tool

  Hey... !

  How to monitor a clip and get the Clone Stamp tool to follow this path? Even if the object that I followed is in a different place that the spot I am trying to cover?

  I'm looking for an expression og kind get the position of the tool clone to follow a Null value or anything of the sort... ?

  Thank you

  / By

  

  Expressions of this sort of thing are very difficult and nearly impossible if there is a lot of movement and the prospect of change in the shot. Here's why. Let's say that your photo was taken with the camera very close to the clock, panoramic left right at the center of the clock. With the camera very close to the subject as the unit's clock begins to come as part of the distance between the left and the right of the base is much shorter this is when the clock is centered in the frame. This means that you must follow the scale and position and make adjustments to your position of clone based on the change of the scale as well as the change in position. If you throw in the angle changes horizon that you would get if the camera was tilted to the left but also left exhausted but sat up (or so held in the hand and the horizon didn't really level) then you would also follow and make adjustments for the rotation. Now you start to get into trigonometry. Finally, you encounter problems that arise with the distance and angle of the original sample. because there are no controls to change the location of the source. If your source is 100 pixels to the left and 50 pixels above the position of clone, it will always be 100 pixels to the left and 50 pixels above the sampling point. If the perspective and scale change then your source of change and the clone image will change.

  Now that you understand the problem, I'll show you how to use an expression to shift the position of a point of the track. I guess there is no rotation in the shot.

  This is how to address the problem. You will need to collect data from the position of Tracker (t), the change of scale (ts), the position of the clone (ip), the discrepancy between the position of clone and the tracker on the first image (ofst), then you will need to calculate the change in offset or adjusted offset (aofst), as the scale (ts) changes by multiplying the offset (ofst) of the scale (ts) then you will need to calculate the new position by adding the offset adjusted to the position of the track. This is the expression and it assumes that you have applied data to a null value, you named "Tracker":

  t = thisComp.layer("Tracker").transform.position;

  TS = thisComp.layer("Tracker").transform.scale/100;

  IP = t.valueAtTime (0);

  OFST = (value - ip);

  aofst = [ofst [0] * ts [0], ofst [1] * ts [1]];

  NP = t + aofst;

  Rail weighbridge for line 2, is divided by 100 to convert a decimal to percentage so the multiplication in line 5 will give the right result.

  Line 3 uses the value according to the time to retrieve the position of the tracker at the beginning of the model.

  Line 4 calculates the offset by subtracting the value of the property, the position of the initial position of the tracker clone.

  Line 5 to set the offset by multiplying the percentage offset. You have made this calculation in a table because the scale and position are the two tables.

  Line 6 simply adds the offset adjusted to position Tracker.

  If there is rotation to throw into the mix, you can use trigonometry to calculate x and y offset based on the angle between the position of Tracker and the clone. That would be pointless because the position of the offset of the source to the clone would not change. In my example, it would always be 100 pixels to the left and 50 pixels above the position of the clone.

  A better solution to a shot of movement would be to use the Motion Tracker to stabilize the shooting in removing movement rotation and scaling, applying this stabilization for shooting, the shooting of duplication and to appoint the Clone duplicate, then using the original film stabilized as source, make the repairs with the cloning tool, then set the clone to paint on transparent and slide in your main computer and remove the stabilization using a null value and a couple of expressions and a double of your film stabilized.

• CLONE STAMP TOOL

  My Clone Stamp tool has suddenly stop working. No one knows how to fix?

  Ok. I'm a fool. I watched the brush toolbar and I had set it to color instead of the normal. Sorry if I have embarrassed anyone. I had not used this tool in a while so I forgot. I hope at least that my help someone else. Thank you very much for your quick response. I imagined all kinds of things.

• CS6 stamp tool does not work with action / record (record of the tool is activated) other tools works

  CS6 stamp tool does not work with action / record (record of the tool is activated) other tools works

  At the same time recording tool was not possible and if you install Adobe Scriptlistener plugin Adobe will disable the recording of the tool its never an option.

  I use and record the actions all the time and was looking forward to the registration tool when Adobe announced it.  But I found what they delivered was very limited because of the restrictions. I don't like that Adobe disables the registration on my machine tool.

  The amount of data that gets reorganized also seems to vary between machines.  I found that Action recorded on a fast machine are not usable on a slow machine.  Recorder fast machine too much data.

  You use this action on the documents must also have the same size and resolution as the document that you have saved the action on. Quite a restriction.

  You can also be foxed in 2014 CC sett here Photoshop CS6 - recording of the clone in an action tool works incorrect on replay.

• Clone Stamp Tool - lack of "Normal mode".

  Just recently, my 'Normal' in the Clone Stamp tool mode disappeared. It used to be there, but now the first option is to "dissolve".  I still have the mode"Normal"in the pattern stamp tool.  As I use the Clone Stamp tool a little, the disappearance of the 'Normal' mode is very annoying.  Any help please?

  Thank you MTSTUNER. I found it using the key up when the drop-down list menu mode has been posted. I fell like a dill, but at least you me facing the right direction thank you again.

• Satellite Pro 6100 - battery acting very strange.

  As mentioned in the title, my laptop battery is very strange.

  The symptoms are:

  When the battery is flat after only 7-10 minutes he turns not, however if the battery is removed and placed in the laptop, the laptop will start as it has never happened.
  Not only that, but the bonus after the first can indefinitely until this that loaded into an OS and immediately after starting start the laptop stops due to an apparent lack of power, when there is power always, enough to do the same thing again. Also, the battery can still start even after being just in a freezer.

  This reacondioned back to normal battery or is this safe to use battery?
  Thanks in advance!

  Hello

  I guess that your battery is old like machines of this Satellite Pro 6100 and maybe it can't be charged more. In this case, your battery should be replaced.

  But even if the battery is faulty, you should be able to use the device connected to the power adapter.
  So even if the battery is removed, you could power the unit with the mains.

• Can someone help me with this problem of very strange wireless networking? (intermittent connectivity)

  So I'm having a very strange problem with my wireless adapter. (surprise, right?) Let me explain just what is happening here: I will use my computer, online, do a lot of things like play games or surf the web. Randomly, for no apparent reason, my wireless adapter disconnects the current network disconnect myself from everything I do. When I check my available wireless networks, I can't see a single network. This has happened to me for a while. When he started it first, I tried many things including the uninstallation of a reinstall of my adapter without success. I have to restart my computer to fix. This happens from time to time and has not stopped since the first occurrence. Originally, if I would try to find a network or uninstall/reinstall, my computer would be soft locking and I would be able to use the windows closed functionality, it would just hang out there indefinitely until I hard loaded. Now its being less skittish and let me do a reset software to fix, but it becomes very annoying. I know this isn't my router because all my roommates can still connect to the network very well, and the router will not prevent me to see many (15-20) wireless networks in the region. If someone can help me even by some light on what is happening, I would be very grateful, because I'm getting very frustrated by that. I reinstalled the map, he pulled for dust, etc. etc. It is not usb and its actions with the system. The Device Manager it says as a 802.11n wireless adapter PCI Express LAN Card, manufactured by LITE-ON TECHNOLOGY CORPORATION. Connected to the 4 PCI bus, device 0, function 0.

  Thanks in advance:

  Justeroo

  Try without commitment TCP/IPv6 (which is done by going to network connection > click > properties > it uncheck > OK.)

  http://digitalmediaphile.WordPress.com/IPv6-how-to-unbind-from-a-NIC-in-Windows-Vista/

  See you soon.

  Mick Murphy - Microsoft partner

• I have a problem with the Clone Stamp tool?

  The Clone Stamp tool doesn't work really well it does not tell the source select and the pad want not applied the correction?

  You have two active subscriptions.

  1, adobe Stock.

  2. the plan of creative of cloud photography

  Please let us know the question you face with which order a screenshot will be more useful.

  Concerning

  Stéphane

• When I make a rectangle, the left and right edges are a bit fuzzy and thicker, then the bottom and at the top. It seems very strange and I don't know why that is.

  When I make a rectangle, the left and right edges are a bit fuzzy and thicker, then the bottom and at the top. It seems very strange and I don't know why that is.

  I made a new document (72 dpi, preview mode: by default) and I tried to see if it's the same thing on another screen, and it is.

  I thought that the problem would be with the 'align on the pixel grid' property but by activating / deactivating it doesn't matter. Maybe it's something with anti-aliasing? "Work of anti-aliasing" is checked in my preferences...

  

  Here's an example, zoom level 100%.

  The forms do not look sharp at all. No idea what this can be?

  Lieselot,

  Or you can try to switch between the GPU and CPU by pressing Ctrl / Cmd + E, or you try disabling GPU performance by clicking on the icon of the rocket in the bar of the App, or on the top of the menu bar, deselect the box Performance GPU. You may also uncheck performance GPU in your preferences.

• White layer no longer allows the use of Spot Healing brush and Clone Stamp Tools

  I do a lot of photo restoration. Before the last update, I used to add a blank layer and adjust the photo with the Spot Healing brush or Clone Stamp Tools.

  This no longer works.

  Solved