the power supply in a 8300 has a SATA power connector

Similar Questions

• Satellite Pro L300-152 lose the power connector - how to disassemble it?

  I have a Satellite Pro L300 - 152 unit, which is out of warranty.
  I have a bad power connector, it has been pushed back and be dislodged from his seat or brocken cradel is within the computer.

  I am trying to remove the back to see if the power connector can be repaired or remains in its cradle.
  I removed all the screws and all devices, but can not get it off the computer.

  There seems to be something with the keyboard, which I took.

  Can you help me?

  To fix the power connector the whole notebook must be disassembled and you must have access to the motherboard. Disassembly procedure is not complicated if you have maintenance manuals and instructions.
  To have full access to the motherboard, you must remove all the screws from the underside and also all the screws under the keyboard. You will then be able to separate the notebooks and disassemble the upper.

  Tell me exactly what you have removed so far?

• is the power connector of 9642XT NI SBRIO J3 negative terminal internally connected to Terminal and mounting holes

  I have a SBRIO system with an isolated supply

  http://www.NI.com/PDF/manuals/375052c.PDF

  It is said on page 15, all connections of Earth GND D AI, AO, connected internally to the earth terminal.

  the negative terminal of the power of the J3 connector is also grounded internally?

  I have a system mounted on a box aluminuim, which owns the land on the Earth, and also the supply, which is used to power the sbrio gives voltage isolated, but now if the negative terminal of the J3 connector has an internal connection with the holes and the spade of Earth, how can I use my isolated power supply with the negative terminal is not connected to the ground its main power supply the connection output not the soil Earth domain controller.

  I can't open my system sbrio jury at that time to check directly.

  can you please help if negative - ve terminal J3 power connector is connected internally to the ground lug and mounting holes.

  Thank you

  Hi Freemason.

  I think I just you send an email in this regard, but to confirm, Yes, connector J3 is connected to earth ground in-house. You should still be able to use your power for the sbRIO.

  Best,

  Dan N

  Technical sales engineer

  National Instruments

• SL410: lose the power connector (and unidentified metal part)

  Problem: connecting the power supply is unreliable - connector often need to be shaken to get the battery to charge. I bought a new DC-IN connector, but then as I disassemble the machine to get to the level of the connector a small piece of plastic (approximately rectangular, black on one side, brass on the other) fell. I finally got enough to remove the old connector and install a new one, but it just keeps slipping into the device. Am I right in suspecting that the piece of plastic that is brouilla could have the "rear wall" of the connector DC-IN housing, intended to stop the connector sliding back - and if so, how can I attach this piece? -a small drop of cement used for ABS plumbing parts? (Another part that fell is a small more or less oval silver color metal piece with a round brass threaded piece female at right angles with the silver part.) No idea where in the machine, he came.)

  I recently did a take on a SL510 which was loose.

  Used a blob of JB quick weld turned down. Make sure the metal plate

  which helps to hold a jack.

  The other part looks like a "screw mounting insert" probably from the top?

  Somewhere, you should have a screw that does not connect to something

  When it is inserted. Find where it goes and set the insert with JB or super glue may.

  and do not overtighten when replacing.

• PSA 30F satellite: how to fix the power connector?

  Hello

  I need to open my PSA Satellite 30F to correct a bad concection in the power conector. Does anyone have a description about how to access this conector? I know that this is the problem and not the AC adapter. The computer is out of warranty, so I'll try to fix it myself. The computer store told me I had to replace the whole motherboard and which would cost me $ 800, Yes!

  Hello

  Well, the problem is that I don't know if the power Jack is soldered on the laptop or only connected m.
  If it s only connected so you can remove all parts, covers, motherboard and then somewhere, you should find the power jack.
  But if it s welded so it's not easy to replace. You should have a very good experience in electronics to fix.

  Check these jacks;
  http://www.laptopking.com/partpicture_LK.asp?ref=404&category=dcjack

  However, there is no official document s how replace this Jack. I guess the Toshiba service partner in your country can give you more details.

  Good luck

• Need picture of the power connector for 1010EA HDX18

  Hi, I hope someone can help here.  I received a 1010EA HDX18 does not work - no power, no boot, nothing.  External review, I think that taking on the right rear of the body seems very strange.  Inside the cylinder are exposed pins and apartments that are not held in a safe position.  It looks great to me as a form of plastic any broke away leaving exposed internal connections.

  Can someone report a clear picture of how this should look like? Or confirm or deny what I see here.

  Any help or advice greatly appreciated.

  Jon

  

  A picture of the plug which must be put in place is shown above.

• Pavilion Notebook 15-ab044sa: load the Pin and the power connector broken

  The computer store where I bought my laptop in August advised that the pin of the connector in my charger is broken and this also broke the load pin in the side of the laptop. The laptop works when it is plugged in but does not load. It is certainly a terrible design of the HP charger fault. Can anyone advice if it's fixable by HP?

  Thanks a lot for your help.

• Workstation HP Z620 dual xeon: really only 1 6-pin power connector on the graphics card?

  Hello

  I have a question about the HP Z620 workstation.

  recently bought a dual xeon with 960 GTX installed on the 6-pin connector.

  as I can't find any other power to use nor on the power connector

  or nowhere on the set, I wonder how a graphics card must be powered only

  needs

  1 x 8-pin

  or

  1 x 8-pin + 6 pins

  or

  2 x 8 pin?

  I know there are some discussions about this in this forum, but I did not understand

  the solution. Some said there are adapters to go 6-pin to 8 pin (or 6pin to 2x8pin)?

  But how is that possible?

  like many, I know, 75 watts are max of the pci-e connection, 75 other watts Max for 1x6pin.

  so plug any adapter, 1x6pin for graphics cards that need much more power would be

  According to the standard / danger, right?

  and what about graphical installation double?

  would be happy if someone around could help me with this.

  best regards

  Chris

  The search box on this page by default search only this forum, and it is very convenient.  If you type "extra", you will find a lot of info.

  The Z620 has two of these 6-pin cable, and HP got creative and molded into two empty containers down to the black plastic fan holder before.  So, one is being used by you and the second is sitting there plugged and similar, it is used, but it is stored just it did nothing... the fan is powered differently.

  These extra HP 6 - pin PCIe power cables are not standard ATX... they are better.  The ATX standard is 75 watts can go up to the card out of the slot, and another 75 watts can come via the additional 6-pin cable.  HP 6-pin cable can do a bit more.

  This is the message that you want to read, and there there details that were not in any of the HP manuals that I searched through, but the answer was on the label of Z620 power supply.  12V 18A each, plus adding info on some special HP adapters that allow you to take a HP 6-pin and divided to two 6-pin connectors or cable HP 6-pin connector 8 pins.  Watch here.

  http://h30434.www3.HP.com/T5/business-PCs-workstations-and-point-of-sale-systems/HP-Z620-workstation-PCI-e-auxiliary-graphics-power/m-p/5651091#M12740

• Satellite A200 - loses the battery, switch off the power

  I have a relatively old Satellite A200, yet almost all inside is new except the battery. The battery has a very short life, but that's because its old. Recently the computer started to suddenly lose the battery, so the charge light stays on, the battery light turns off and the battery icon said "plugged in, not charging." However, the computer still work on battery power. If I see it at the time, then by removing and replacing the charger repeatedly, I can start it load again, but if I am not it switches off without warning. Since the battery life is now less than a minute which often.

  I don't think that the problem is with the charger because it always shows the charger is plugged in, and when the computer is off the battery light is always on when it is plugged. I had a problem with the power connector, but if the motherboard was recently replaced so I don't think that's it either.

  If someone could help it would save me a lot of frustration, thank you.

  Hello

  At first, I must say that you should not be frustrated. Problems with consumer products are normal, and each of us has problems with laptops, televisions or other electronic product.

  Let's see what you can do about it.
  Your description is OK, but what I want to know is follow:
  When you remove the battery can work on your laptop with no problems (start work, cut)?

  I also think that the battery is too old and I presume it's troublemaker in the history. It is not easy to explain what behavior flashing if you have a defective hardware or old coin inside.

  Maybe, you need to buy the replacement of the battery and check the features for laptop and the battery, just to see if everything will be OK again. If you will be faced with the same problem again then we can discuss what may be the problem.
  In my opinion only a reason for this could be electronic power supply.

  What do you think?

• Satellite A30 151: motherboard power connector broken

  I have an old toshiba A30-151 that has fallen down a while a go because of the power connector snap into the power socket. This had happened before at the back of the power supply, but I managed to solder back together. Unfortunately it broke again and has so the PIN inside the socket.

  So after having managed to get into the nitty gritty of the laptop and have the motherboard out, I had a replacement for welded to the. Problem is there is a missing piece. I have a picture of this here:

  http://i150.Photobucket.com/albums/S83/Dalio1984/motherboard.jpg

  It was a picture of him before you put the Jack on. The chip missing normally goes where the right red circle is. Now I have not tested yet cause I have to go through the process of implementation of back together which is tomorrow nights work. I was wondering if it will work without it, if I can get a replacement part for this, or if I could figure out what it is (for example a resistor) replace it with a piece of stock to its equivalent.

  I realize this is probably a little extreme, but any help in this matter would be appreciated.

  Hello

  A figured out if this will work without this chip?

  I don t think that someone here in the forum will be able to give you an answer exactly.
  The drawing of the motherboard is necessary and that these documents are not easy to find because the manual are not:(pour usage public)

  So I hope you can find more information in internet

  Good luck

• HP G620470CA: G62 - 470 CA do not load - power connector?

  I'm helping a friend with a laptop HP G62 - 470 CA.  It runs Windows 7Home Premium.

  I'm a geek of very experienced computer hardware, since 1968, but only opened about 10 modern laptops - always with the help of downloaded books.

  The laptop in question has only Wi - Fi networks, and I have only a Linux computer with a dial-up connection, so there is no way to connect the laptop directly to the internet from here.  And I can't view the videos.

  The problem with the power connector - a common, but I've read all morning and have not yet find an answer.  There seems to be some interactions between the power brick, power conenctor, battery and motherboard problems.

  Like many users, she found her power connector is intermittent, needing stirring so he could connect. As I had fixed the old laptop of his brother with a work of pig after it (soldered to the motherboard) power connector went wobbly, she asked me to look at.

  When she showed me the machine, the battery was too dead to allow start-up of the machine completely.  The charge LED is not come yet a moment, and there is no visible light on the power brick itself (I don't know if there should be any on this model).

  Put a meter outside the ring and the central axis, I found on 18.5V, positive pin, which looked good and is stable.  Biting moments and the cable has not changed anything.  It seemed that the power supply was the culprit.

  I got it home (where I only switched) and studied the issue for several days, download of HP service documents and discovered that HP had improved their design with a nest, wiring-harness-connected socket which is more shock-resistant and easy to replace.  I told her, and she has ordered a replacement of cylinders harness + listed the number of exact model; I installed it, in the process of learning how to work the little clips on the printed ribbons cables and using a printed diagram from the bottom of the computer to save all the small screws and clips, "with circles and arrows and a paragraph to describe."

  As both outlets had pinbacks resin-locked up, it was not possible to test connections.  A new differed from the former only by not having only not four tiny, rectangular holes around the hole of the central axis.  Food is not about to mate with these holes, and it lists a tension, so I wasn't expecting that to matter.  Maybe it was a feature for foreign cersions of the power brick, I thought.

  I plugged it in no light, but I left in it for awhile in case only the LED was not connected.  Start the machine (including ahd been unable to boot), fortunately, he started and showed 85% battery!  However, only, which is down with the time - there was no load, or at least no more.  I checked the voltage of the charger to see if it may have been damaged by an internal problem.  I found only 13, 75 - 14.01 volts from the outside of the ring to the central pin (positive)!

  Appearing to use a battery to try to light the LED of charging, I watched the cable brick and found that there are THREE sets of contact - the spindle, the outer ring and the ring INSIDE. Others showed:

  4.75 - 4, 85 volts from the inside of the ring to pivot (PIN positive)

  18.5 - 19 volts from the outside of the ring inside the ring (inside the positive)

  Whaa?  The 18.5 was what I expected, but it was between two rings and not between a ring and a PIN.

  And at this time, I noticed that from time to time, a blue (or white, I guess you'd call it) a DUCT on the connector turned on briefly, then turned red orange and outside.  Over time, it stayed white wheat longer, up to 8 seconds at a time, without showing any ability to charge the battery.

  Reading much more here and besides, I noticed that many others had similar problems involving all parts of four - battery, power brick cable, connector and motherboard.  I noticed the battery test can be found in the pages of support and pulled up to HP Support Assistant to test, but the reliable program planted at startup.  It was a version of 7.something.something, the support site said that later was 12.0, so I downloaded that.  However, I can't understand how to install it on the HP machine after it (on USB) transfer to the Linux machine, and the laptop cannot get Internet at home.

  WHAT can I DO to narrow down the problem?  If I know what voltages to which contacts, I can try to charging a battery nicad-multi, that would eliminate all the problems of power supply brick.

  The laptop battery carries a lot of numbers, but next to the 'made in china' legend is CQ42 HP-6.  A sticker says 112B213G6LA65D9CJ83, and another with a barcode PRTNHP234BK06312120141.

  That's a lot to read, I know, but I want to provide as much information as possible to help the members of the forum with kindness.  Again, the machine turns on, but fell to 18% of autonomy.

  Thank you all in advance!

  Thank you, Reo51st - that clears up a lot.  As you probably know, the diagram on the power brick shows the symbol for PIN and ring only (with pin posiitve).

  Since I posted this question yesterday, I have since set up a battery of 12 NiCd cells and jerry-rigged a connector with tin foil and a piece of cable insulation, and load worked.  Then I drove on Free geek, our very convenient source of Vancouver (and sink - they take your trash for reuse or recycling) of the old computer bits and $18 me have a new power brick.

  I therefore declare this thread SOLVED (by me), even if the info from Reo51st certainly would have made me more confident in the test so I saw him at the time.

• Broken power connector? Where to find one?

  Hello

  the delayed of my thoshiba satellite is broken.
  Where can I find one?

  Thank you.

  Hi Michel,.

  This is the power connector on the power supply that is broken, or is the connector at the back of the laptop you?

  If it's your laptop then it is normally soldered on the motherboard and will result in the replacement of the motherboard unless you can find a suitable replacement connector and try to re - solder it.

  If the adapter connector, you can cut the broken one and weld on a replacement that you should be able to get most of the spare parts electric stockists. Ensure that you get the correct polarity since it is DC current.

  HTH

• W510 power connector loose

  Hello world

  I got a W510 renovated for a few weeks. Recently, the power connector at the back of the laptop computer between the battery and the heat exchanger is loose. How can I solve this problem?

  Thank you

  Wei

  Here is the Service Manual: http://download.lenovo.com/ibmdl/pub/pc/pccbbs/mobiles_pdf/63Y0536_05.pdf

• Power connector at right angle for laptop HP 2230 s?

  Is it possible to get an adapter at right angles to the power connector DC for my laptop HP 2230 s?

  The connector on the DC power cable that goes into the laptop out the path to the side (a good 2.5 "), which, besides being bulky, resembles an accident waiting to happen. On my old Fujitsu, the connector was barely right angle type, it came out at all, and was not a danger to catch on anything and damage the socket or the plug. This type of connector puts also much less strain on the DC input jack, as he does not act as a lever for bit.

  I've seen at right angles to the adapters for different types of cable (you plug your cable on one end and the other goes in the computer), like this:

  

  I hope you get the idea. In any case, what I would like is an adapter for the type of connector used on my HP laptop. The type of connector seems to be pretty standard in the range, so an adapter can be used with many models of HP. In the end, I hope that HP will change cables from their power supplies for laptop to come with these types of connectors at the ends, but in the meantime, is possible to get an appropriate, either through HP or a third party adapter?

  Thanks in advance to anyone who can offer suggestions!

  http://www.bixnet.com/cntlc90.html

  I know this is an old thread... but since nobody listed everything that might work, I found this on the same site listed zetto.

• My iPad has been verification of operating system update for more than 3 hours.  Not able to do anything. Cannot cancel or turn off the power. Help please.

  MY iPad has been verification of update of the new version of operating system for 3 hours.  Unable on camel back or cut off the power supply.  What should I do? o

  Try a forced reboot. Hold down the Home and Sleep/Wake buttons at the same time for about 15 seconds, until the Apple logo appears.

  Then go to settings > general > storage & use iCloud > manage storage (the first) > and if there is an update, delete. Then go to settings > general > Software Update and try again.

  If that doesn't work, try updating through iTunes on your computer.