Acquisition of CVI HSDIO (NI6541) with external flash

Similar Questions

• HI - A57 overexposed with external Flash HVL-56

  I bought the HVL-56 AM flash when I bought my original Alpha 100 camera and it served me well when I needed an external flash higher power.  When I updated the camera to the A57 - HI, I thought that the HVL-56 would work well since it uses the same shoe.  However, each image is overexposed when using the external flash.  I get similar with backlight results or front lighting.  I looked through the Sony forums and read carefully this manual but can't find what could be the problem.  Any ideas?

  Hi DougNC,

  Welcome to the community of Sony!

  I recommend that you check the exposure settings when shooting with the flash. Your settings may be the cause of the photos to be overexposed. Check, the White Balance, ISO or EV compensation as these will affect the brightness of the photo. Also opening speeds and speed. A faster shutter speed will allow the lesser light in the sensor, identical to a lower open stop.

  I would also recommend affecting the flash at a lower power level, especially when shooting subjects closest to the camera.

  If my post answered your question, please mark it as "accept as a Solution. Thanks_Mitch

• I currently store my pictures on and an external hard drive.  Lightroom 6 was not able to find the picture momentarily files.  I inserted an external Flash DRIVE after removing the hard drive and the computer renamed the stick with the same drive letter t

  Redesign existing external hard disks and still 6 Lightroom able to find existing photos.

  I currently store my pictures on and an external hard drive.  Lightroom 6 was not able to find the picture momentarily files.  I inserted an external Flash DRIVE after removing the hard drive and the computer renamed the stick with the same drive letter that has been designated by Lightroom to store my photos.  I could go into my Windows 10 and reset the player to the letter that Lightroom has given at the beginning of the external hard drive.   However, I know this can happen again, if I connect any stick USD or another device, while the external hard drive is not connected to my laptop.   I found the information that I can do the new designation of the final drive by choosing a letter it is 1/2 way or higher in the alphabet.   I would like to turn an external hard drive on a strong letter, warns we hope this previous problem.   My question is, if I already have a lot of pictures on this external hardrive with the designation of the current drive, how it becomes a higher letter and have 6 Lightroom recognizes files, now under the new designation of drive letter without having to go to each photo individually and manually force Lightroom 6 find each photo.  It would take more time than I'd like to lose.  Is there a way to get just 6 Lightroom to recognize the new disk designation has changed and is able to find all of the existing files?

  I have read the ADOBE LightRoom 6 manual and seem not to be able to find anything on how to do it.

  Any help would be welcome.

  Thank you!

  So in Windows, you can select a drive like q letter (or any other letter you want only towards the end of the alphabet)

  Then in Lightroom, you can reconnect to the photos on q: the following instructions (see specifically 4 Figure and related text)

  Adobe Lightroom - find moved or missing folders and files

• Using an external Flash with Nex-6?

  I try to Flash a S L A V E with NEX-6. I tried different settings and the flash modes. It seems that the manual may be preferable. I'm trying to fill Flash and sometimes I get the results I expect and many times I get a black picture. Apparently the eliminator bad word think S L A V E flash is a bad word. Sigh... Lets call it EXT in the future.

  1/60 or 1/30 f / 11 or f/8

  Sony Nex-6 flash still fires.

  EXT flash - Studio flash on a stand nearby - flash always fires.

  Can someone tell me why the photo would never black?

  So the camera doesn't really manually?

  I hear the 'trigger' turn off.

  The NEX-6 flash always fire.

  The EXT flash is the same topic.

  The pictures are dark or black despite the two flashes firing.

  Here's a specific example. Two pictures on a wall with a dim overhead light candleholder.

  Nex6 manual - 1/60 F 5.6 fill flash on Nex - 6 - no POST Nex-6 takes a reasonable picture.

  Move the nearby POST and aim the EXT on the same premises. Change anything in the camera.

  Now, I get a dark image or black of the camera. The two flashes of fire.

  I used to do the work of studio all this way to set the time with my Nikon D300. No muss no fuss. Using the camera as a light meter. Camera in manual. The value 1/60 or 1/125, F/11. Take a shot or two. Look at the histogram to see if the light was good. And then shoot there all day triggering the EXT of the on-board camera flash, which could actually be set at a low rate. Change the settings of the camera and watch the histogram if you move lights. Otherwise you are good to go.

  But apparently the NEX-6 is too smart. Even in manual mode. How can I make dumb if I can do the same thing? I have 4 blinks for my studio and want to use it. Not to buy some flashes new fantasies more money than the cost of Nex - 6.

  BTW, I like the NEX - 6. Great pictures. Shoots RAW, I need. Love outdoors where it is light. Lovely sharp lens. Large strong viewfinder LCD for outdoor activities. But now I need to use it in my studio with my flashes inside.

  Help please?

  Thank you

  WindyPlayer

  I found that using a Paul C Buff Inc. remote with an ABR800 radio, can trigger other flashes. So, using the nex - 6 claw with a remote control to trigger the flashes more consistent. This way I can use my method to use the settings of the manual camera without the camera to play with exhibitions. Did not understand why you use the built-in flash is not consistent.

  Problem solved I guess.

  -wp

• Can I wireless use a 430 EX II as a slave with the flash integrated the T3i EOS?

  I have a Rebel EOS T3i.  According to its manual, pp 191 ff, I can launch a remote speedlite wireless from the camera.  I get an error message cannot find the speedlite even if I set up my 430 EX II speedlite according to its instructions manual, pp25 ff.  Thanks for your help

  Yes - the 430EX II will function as a slave and the T3i (but not the T2i or earlier) can trigger remotely the speedlite.

  It of a little complicated and can be confusing.

  First... set the 430EX II in the correct mode.  Press and HOLD the 'Zoom' button for 2 seconds approximately.  This active a menu that allows you to put the flash is in a mode single-fash vs remote "slave".  Semicircular keys to switch to read 'slave '.  Press 'set' (in the middle of these buttons of a semicircle shape.)  I happen to have my 430EX II practical, but it must default to the slave 'A' channel '1 '.

  Now for the camera.

  On your camera menu, tab to the left (which we'll call 'Caméra Red #1' to distinguish it from other tabs) has 'Flash' control as the last option on this screen.  Either way for cameras with a built-in popup flash, the menu is marked 'Flash Control'.  For devices that do NOT have the built-in pop-up flash, this menu is called "Flash speedlite external control.

  In this submenu (Flash control), make sure "Flash of fire" (the top option) is set to 'Enable' or 'CustWireless' - should NOT be set to 'disable' or nothing will work.

  You will see a menu choice for "external Flash func. parameter' (and also 'External flash C.Fn setting'.)  IGNORE THESE!  This is for the hot flashes that are in the camera hotshoe and do NOT control the remote flashes wireless.  This is probably where you were getting confused.

  Then go to "built-in flash func. the parameters' where, paradoxically, you get to control how your device communicates with your flash REMOTE (Yes, I know that this is not the most intuitive place to put it.)  It turns out that it is your INTERNAL flash that is responsible for communicating with any flash slave remote.  The optical wireless actually uses visible light (many people assume that it is a communication infrared - me is understood - at the end of the day, I learned that was incorrect and it's actually the visible light of the flash itself.)  He quickly sends communication to remote control by pulse codes to tell flash what to do remotely.  All this happens until the image is exposed and you'd swear the only blinked once eyes flash... but it turns out that it is actually very busy away from the impulse to connect).

  In the "func flash built-in. menu of settings"there are a number of things that you must set.

  If you set the flash mode built in 'EasyWireless' it will be gray on many other parameters... basically the camera automatically decides what he wants to do.  I think that the only definition not gray is the channel number (which must match the channel number on your flash.  Channel numbers helps you can draw on events where other photographers are also using wireless flash and have no conflicts where they are triggering your flashes and vice versa.

  If you set the flash mode built in "CustWireless" it allows you to set other options.  CustWireless offers the most control.  In the end, it's probably mode you will use the most, once you get used to distance Speedlites.

  In CustWireless, the menu option 'Wireless' Func mode. becomes available.  This option allows you to decide if you want (I take these out of use for simplicity to explain):

  (a) speedlites both internal and external to the fire as a single group (icon external flash, a PLUS sign (+) and the camera icon)

  (b) the Speedlite flashes inside and outside to the fire, but allowing you to control the power RATIO (icon external flash, a COLON symbol ( and the camera icon means "ratios" can be customized.))

  (c) only external Speedlites (only the external flash icon is on this option - no icon on the device).

  I want to mention something about this external option only because it confuses most people initially.  The device communicates with the slave through the on-camera flash.  The flash on the camera quickly pulses to send the instructions for flashes to distance.  This means that to use the slave flashes, the on-camera flash must be addressed (in jumps - upward position).  If you ask for external flash only (without camera) the flash on the camera flashed only instructions BEFORE the opening of the shutter of the camera to take the exhibition.  When I started to learn from external Speedlite flashes, I saw the light on-camera flash and thought that my settings were ignored.  Do not worry... When you archive your images, you will see that there is no light provided by the on-camera flash during exposure... all this flashing comes before the opening of the shutter.   Everything happens so fast that you'd swear all the flashes triggered only once... but in reality they are actually much of 'talk' before taking the picture, but this happens at an incredible speed.

  And one last comment... because the camera communicates through Optics (visible light) flash to talk to remote controls, it is important from the bottom of the body of your 430EX II can 'see' the flash on the camera.  In small parts, that no matter where the lower part of the body showed up... you notice the impulses of the light of the on-camera flash.  But in large halls or outside the lower body of your 430EX II (where the receiver is located) will have any reflection of the walls, etc.  In this case, simply turn the lower part of the body of the 430EX II so that it faces the on-camera flash.  You can then rotate the head of the 430EX II at the point where you need.  The 430EX II will trigger even in daylight, as long as it can 'see' as the on-camera flash.

  Here is a video that can help you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQIyPWGPp5A

• External Flash for t4i options

  I recently bought the Canon t4i and am more than a little impressed by the unit.

  Years, I bought an external flash Canon Speedlite 299 T to use with my camera Canon AE1 Program.  Ask yourself whether or not this old work, but still, flash works with my new camera?

  It will be, but you will need to shoot in manual mode to adapt to its release. The camera cannot control if you need to do the work.

• External Flash

  I have a Canon EOS T3i and shoot in automatic mode.  My indoor photos appear to be yellowish.  Would an external flash and if so what model

  There are really two different questions here:

  (1) will Flash help with domestic plans?

  (2) why are the yellowish inner planes?

  Let's talk about the first "yellowish" problem.

  I'll guess that your inner planes have traditional incandescent lighting (tungsten filament traditional bulbs).  It is normal that these bulbs turn off a rather decidedly yellow/orange color cast.

  You can adjust the white balance to highlight "tungsten" (icon looks like a typical bulb).  But don't forget to change it when you are finished or outdoor photos eventually you are looking for a lot too blue.  You can use the "custom white balance" to fix as well (custom white balance is to take a picture of a neutral grey card, which is held in the same light you intend to shoot in.)  When you take the custom white balance, it will ask for the reference image, you take this picture of the gray card, and the camera adjusts the white balance to neutralize any color cast caused by light.  There are tutorials and videos from YouTube to show how to do.)

  Now on the flash...

  A lightning bolt has a "color temperature" designed to match daylight (outdoor light).  A wobbly thing happens when you mix "daylight" with "tungsten".  If the flash looks "white" while any traditional incandescent lighting will look especially orange.  If you set a to remove white balance, then these lamps will look normal, but your flash light will seem 'cool' and blue.

  The "fix" is to use what is called a 'CTO freeze' on the flash.  CTO stands for "Orange Color Temperature.  The color gel (you just piece of tape on the front of the flash) colors in the light of the flash to match the color of the lights.  Then, when you set the camera to use "tungsten" white balance, the whole scene seems normal.

  You can do a Google search for "flash CTO gels" and find a lot of information but also of companies that sell gels.

  Canon Speedlite new 600EX-RT comes with a gel of the CTO and darker orange gel (which approximates the color of the light of the Sun in the Sun).

  Sometimes I think that everyone should have a flash speedlite external flash.  There are two or three issues with the built-in flashes.

  First... they tend to not be very big and not very powerful.  They are good for distances of about 10' work... maybe 12' - but also they do not have the power to illuiminate a large surface.

  Second... they are not bent or diffuse light.  When the light comes from the same direction as the lens of the camera, he's hiding all the shadows.  For the great light, you actually want shadow.  Shadows allow three-dimensional objects show their dimensionality.  Textures look "flat" when there is no shadows.  In addition, it is a source of tiny pin-point so it doesn't create soft diffused light (diffused light is a light that seems to come from a large area - not a point source).

  Third... light has a problem of 'falling' (made all of the light).  As the distance of the light source increases, the light spreads.  The rate at which it spans East called the "inverse square law' and it applies to many things in addition to light.  But the inverse square law says that the light will effectively become half as brilliant whenever the distance from the source at a rate of increase.  This rate is based on the square root of 2 (which is a number very close to 1.4).

  Suppose you have a topic to 5' of light.  He gets an amount of light and you put the exposure for a beautiful display with this light at that distance.  An object that is 1.4 times as far (which would be) 7' would get HALF as much light.  An object 1.4 times further than (10') would get half as much again (or 1/8th).  14' is half as much again (1/16th) and 20' he 1/32nd as much light.

  If you "bounce" the light on the ceiling, then everything is raining down from above... There is always a problem of fall, but it will be not so drastically due to the new path taken by light.   You will get a room that is a little more uniform light.  But the built-in pop-up flash can not be put in the ceiling to "bounce" the light.  A flash mounted on external shoe has a head that can be tilted up to "bounce" the shot - and they tend to be much more powerful.

  Today I use 600EX-RT Speedlite flashes, but I own and have widely used the 430EX II and it is a large workhorse flash in a nice sized package.

• T3i sync high speed with popup flash?

  When shooting outdoors with a light background, it would be nice to be able to use the flash pop-up as a fill light (to the shadows on a face, etc..). However, the shutter speed is set to 1/200 when the popup flash is in place, overexpose the scene. Is there a reason why the pop-up flash can't sync high speed like an external flash to allow a faster shutter speed and always get a filling?

  Thank you

  David

  It has to do with the amount of energy is available for the flash.  A more powerful flash can more easily manage the sync high speed.

  Sync and sync high speed are related to the work the Shutter curtain on any SLR digital.  There are two doors.  A slides open, and close other slides.  The reason for which there must be two doors (instead of one) is because that if there is only one, then the door would slide open, then reverses to slide.

  Assume the following scenario were true:

  Suppose it takes the shutter a full 1 second door to slide open.  If we set an exposure time of 2 seconds, the following should happen if there was only one door.

  -l' shutter starts to slide open from left to right, allowing light to reach the pixels on the left edge of the sensor.  The right edge is always in the dark.

  -as slides of doors, more and more pixels are eposed to light.

  -a second later reached the opposite end and all the pixels are exposed to light, but the door must immediately reverse and start close because it will take a full second to slide the door closed.

  -the door begins to move and immediately the pixels on the edge of most on the right are in the dark, because they are covered by the shutter, but the pixels on the left edge are still exposed to the light.

  -the door has finally reached the edge against a second later and no pixel is exposed to light.

  Think to what just happened... the pixels on the edge of 'left' of the sensor got a second exhibition 2... but the pixels on the right edge of the probe were barely exposed for a fraction of a second.  You'd have a horrible blow to look.

  To resolve this problem, the camera uses TWO doors... begins a sliding open... the other follows a moment later (based on the selected shutter speed) and starts sliding closed.  Now, all pixels are exposed for the same period of time, regardless of the shutter speed you use.

  But the reality is they are mechanically sliding doors and it takes time to move.  Flash sync speed is shortest possible exposure that can be turned where the first door has enough time to COMPLETELY slide open so that when the flash goes off, the entire sensor is exposed and benefit of lightning.  The second door can slide THEN closed.

  If you do not use flash and you set a very fast shutter speed (say 1/1000th) the second door actually starts closeing long before the end of the first door opening.  In fact the second door is "hunting" the first establishes a "slot" which sweeps the sensor.

  With this in mind... now think just what a flash how to predict sync high speed.

  Assume that your camera has a maximum speed of flash-sync of 1/200th, but you want to shoot at 1/400th.

  This means that the first door must begin to open.  When he reached the midpoint, the flash must trigger to light the subject - but half the sensor did not lightning.  The second door closes as the first door continues to open up.  When the first door reaches the opposite edge, the second door will now be in the middle.  The flash needs to fire AGAIN - this time to expose the pixels on the 2nd half of the sensor.

  This means that the flash should fire TWICE in quick succession and the impulses must be PRECISELY 1/800th second (half or your second 1/400th total exposure times) apartment.    No flash would be able to recycle in just 1/800th dry if she gave a burst of the power of the light.  In other words, that it must reserve at least half of its power for the second round.

  If you increase the shutter speed to 1/800th... now the flash to trigger FOUR times and no single burst may be stronger than 25% of the power of lightning - and gusts must precisely timed occurs 1/1600e seconds, independently of the other.

  You can quickly see how this is going to require a flash with a power or you won't be able to finish the sync high speed on something more than just a few feet.

  For the light of day, the most brilliant exhibition is going to be the sunny 16 rule... f/16 with the shutter speed, the value in contrast to ISO.  So, for 100 ISO, you can use 1/100th sec.  To f/8, you can use 1/200th (and now you are still below the max flash sync speed).

• Canon 1000 d external flash

  I have a Canon 1000 d and I want to use my detached external flash of the camera body. How do I do that?

  He gets not any cheaper than the wireless options I mentioned above.  I use Yongnuo RF-602, RF - 622, 560 III and the 560TX and had no problems with either of them.  They are as reliable as my flashes.

• Windows 7 Professional... How to get access to security to view my external hard drives and external flash dirves

  I am a first time user to windows 7 Professional and need to learn how to access files that are connected to the computer by an external flash drive or an external hard drive.

  External or external flash drives hard drives can be connected to windows 8 computers or windows xp to view the files, but when then identical external or external flash drives hard drives are connected to two computers with windows 7 Professional there are settings automatically don ot all access to the external hard drive or flash drive external files.

  When the computer display, it displays the external hard drive.

  When I left click top produces a pop up with the title bar: location is not available

  Content: H: | is not accessible.

  Access is denied.

  When I right click on the hard drive and then click the Security tab, it displays:

  Name of the object: H: |

  To continue, you must be an administrative user with permission to view this object's security properties.

  Do you want to continue?

  Then I clicked on continue and it displays:

  Owner

  You do not have permission to view this object's security properties.  To view its security properties, you can try to take possession of the object.  As owner, you can also control who gets the permissions on the object.  Please note that once you take possession, the previous owner may not have access to the object.

  To try to take possession of the object, select an account from the list, and then click OK.

  Name of the object: H: |

  Current owner: unable to display current owner.

  Change in ownership to:

  the two choices are my name or administrators

  I then chose an and apply and ok and it did not work.

  I then chose the other and apply and ok and it did not work.

  Then I clicked on other users or groups and entered everyone and that no longer works.

  I am the only user of this computer brand new.

  When I click on accounts Panel then user control and security for the family and then user accounts, it displays my name as administrator password.

  What are the steps that I can buy an external hard drive or buy a flash drive or use the ones I already have and use them with this computer which has windows 7 Professional?

  How is the switch of the property did not work?

  I went back to safety again and this time stayed at the bottom for special permissions or advanced settings.

  And yet when I kept getting location is not available

  H:\ is not accessible.

  Access is denied.

  How do change you windows 7 Professional so that you can have access to your own files on an external hard drive or an external flash drive.

  Please list the steps.

  Thank you

  This problem has been resolved in collaboration with support of higher HP for Z book 17 mobile workstation.

  Steps:

  (1) determines that it is not NTFS problem

  (2) using the MSCONFIG the problem has been isolated to a single service

  When this service has been disabled and after reboot, the problem of access to the files is resolved.

  Results: HP had installed software on the HP Z book 17 laptop or mobile workstation which, by default, block communication with external hard drives and flash drives external.

  This HP Client Security software replaces or blocks all right click changes settings become apparent.  It blocks the change of ownership.  It blocks the administrator privileges.  It blocks all is used.

  The HP Client Security software has been changed and changed to deny privileges (default setting) to allow the communication with external drives.  When you go into the setting for this software, it is now a humming noise and maybe I need to download the drivers and software again to see if this problem is also corrected.

  Thanks for your comments.  I spent a lot of time on this and didn't understand why all right-click methods had failed.  The default software setting HP deny had trumped right click all changes.

• [S12, Intel] play video DVDs with external DVD drive possible?

  Hello!

  I am planing to buy an Ideapad S12 (version Intel, ION NOT!).

  Is it possible to play DVD movies using an external DVD drive? (Standard DVD, Blue Ray no)

  Up to what quality (360 p, 480 p, 720 p) is possible to Watch youtube with ION flash videos no S12?

  Thank you!

  <4711>

  I have the S12 Intel and can watch DVDs ok with an external liteon drive, he also plays bluray but the S12 won't.

• an external flash is what I want to fix on my Sony 200HXV. Anyone know what I need to do?

  Really, I love my Sony 200HXV, but I would like to use an external flash to avoid shadows when I use my pop-up flash.  You'll need to disarm the flash, but prefer fix somehow, an external flash to get a quality shot.  Anyone know what I need?

  Thank you.   TLC

  You can use flashes with the construction in the cell of synchronization as the well known and proven Metz MZ 52822D 28 CS - 2 digital Flash for your HX200.

  It is able to synchronize the flash version and is very small but powerful enough for most of the shooting.

• External flash for wireless on the A77 operation and A700

  I have a DSLR Sony A-77 and another (former) A-700. I shoot in a studio with 2 flashes Sony wireless and manual way. The internal flash triggers the external flashes that are placed on the floor or on tripods, one on each side. Now, I want to add a third speed light mainly for the backlight. I was told to buy a used Minolta Flash (to save costs). I don't know what Flash will work the way I need to work.
  Which is compatible with my camera?
  I'll be able to use manually, wireless, as internal third triggered flash to flash my cameras?

  Is it possible to find a used or a new one at a lower cost?
  Thanks in advance for your attention.
  Nuki

  Unfortunately, we have not tested the compatibility of third party brand with our cameras and we can not guarantee full functionality. However, any flash unit that can be optically triggered should be able to operate as a slave flash.

• You Tube is not playing video on Firefox with Adobe Flash after the last update

  You Tube and other sites do not play video on Firefox with Adobe Flash after the last update for both. Adobe Flash works on other sites but not You tube and sites that can have embedded videos from You Tube, I'm not sure.

  Adobe Flash not crushed and no error message is visible. All that shows is a black screen for Flash video. Make a right click of the screen shows only a non-interactive 'a film has not loaded' and the clickable link to the home page of Adobe.

  I spent an hour trying things as suggested for past problems similar to this, but none helped.

  I sent sad face, letting you know what I think of the last update for this reason which explains pretty much the same thing, as I have said here.

  I have no other info but if I had a form any entry and queries you I might be able to provide more.

      I think the Flash 12.xx is a phantom. I can't find it on my comp. Only 13.xx shows anywhere but on the Pugins page in Firefox.
  
  

  Weird. I have no idea why it does that. Your list of details of the system shows that 13.0.r0 Flash.

     About the .Js I cannot find a User.JS in the profile folder but ther is a user.bk and other files that have.json. Should I do anything with these? 
  
  

  If you don't, that's okay. Leave all of the files.

  Does disabling HA in Flash and Firefox work better for you now or even not playing it?
  
  Make sure your firewall is not something Firefox blocks.
  
  This happens in other browsers as well?

  The site appears your version of Flash player and your operating system?

  • http://helpx.Adobe.com/Flash-Player/KB/uninstall-Flash-Player-Windows.html

  Here is what mine looks like
  
  

• Are there any known problems with external battery for iPhone 6 s karim?

  Are there any known problems with external battery for iPhone 6 s karim? Jackery of input: 5V / 2. 1a.

  I had heard that some may damage internal parts of the phone.

  I am interested in what Apple says rather than what says karim.

  Thank you.

  Jkim99 wrote:

  Are there any known problems with external battery for iPhone 6 s karim? Jackery of input: 5V / 2. 1a.

  I had heard that some may damage internal parts of the phone.

  I am interested what said Apple rather than what it says karim.

  Thank you.

  There is no Apple here in this technical forum from user to user.