Better protection for Canon 200 with f2.0 lens

Similar Questions

• Why Canon does not have old adapters for my SLR camera lenses? I can get them with Sony, but not for Canon

  I have an old Canon Ftb with a goal of 1.4 fd. I'm getting into digital cameras now (just to have a 12 G for now, mainly used for underwater photography). I would like to stay with Canon, but I'm very annoyed that Canon doesn't have a way to continue to use their old lenses. Nikon, for all their flaws are much better at you can continue to use your old stuff.

  Then I find that if I'm going to Sony (Yes, really, Sony) can I use my lenses from Canon ol via an adapter. This my Canon, tell me it ain't so. You must have a way, I just have not yet discovered.

  There are many challenges with this and the "adapters" are to be considered with a certain scepticism.

  The FD lenses are mechanical - no electronics.  The case of the unit, on the other hand, has an electronic interface for the lens - nothing of mechanics.   This means that if you set the goal, you would have to manually set the aperture but also of manual focus of the lens.

  Your Canon DSLR had a split Prism focusing in the viewfinder to help.  A new camera does not work.  The reason why there is no help from the development is because most of the lenses are autofocus so it is simply not necessary.  This makes it particularly difficult to tell when you've worn exactly the goal.  Making it even more difficult is that any device with a sensor size of APS - C (most of them) have a small viewfinder that you had on your Canon SLR photography.

  In addition, the lenses are optimized for a specific back focus distance.  Canon's EOS cameras have a depth of 44 m from the mounting flange of lens at the front of the body at the level of development within the body.  When you use an adapter, it modifies that distance.  If you change too much, the lens behaves as if it is mounted with extension tubes, the entire range of focus is moved closer to the camera, and it can be is no longer able to focus to infinity.

  There are 3 parties that make these lenses... conversion kits but they do them for a few drinks (not all) and that they require a bit of surgery on the goal (e.g. this level which protrudes beyond the rear of the lens used to set the aperture value should go).

  But... the modern lenses are just so much better than the old FD lenses.   Requires really quite the dozen FD lens to make it interesting this fuss.  Also, I own a Canon SLR (AE-1) and a few glasses of FD... but have no interest in trying to use one of these lenses on my EOS DSLR cameras.

  I think that this question almost as Ford asking why they do not wheel adapters let wheels it T model mount on a Mustang of 2015.  The new wheels are so much better than the old wheels, you want to continue to use the old wheels.

  Leave your old lenses in the past.  Mine are on the shelf alongside my AE-1... body as a conversation piece.  I don't actually use them.

• There is a problem with the driver for Canon PowerShot SD1200 IS. The driver must be reinstalled.

  There is a problem with the driver for Canon PowerShot SD1200 IS. The pilot
  must be reinstalled.

  Gerald

  To allow us to help you better, please provide as much detail as possible about the problem you are experiencing.

  
  If you design your question effectively, you can get good information from people who are familiar with the subject and who are happy to help you.

  Prepare your question. He thinks through. Hasty-survey questions get hasty responses, or none at all.

  What diagnosis have so far

  An effective question you will get help read faster how here

  Suggestions for asking for help on a site.
  http://www.CatB.org/~ESR/FAQs/smart-questions.html

  BTW, I see you have cross posted this on Technet

  http://social.technet.Microsoft.com/forums/Windows/en-us/a1bd86f2-6914-4cda-9e34-1e3abb75a33c/Canon-PowerShot-SD1200-is?Forum=tnfeedback

• is driver for canon pixma mp800 included with windows 8?

  is driver for canon pixma mp800 included with windows 8?

  Bring out of the canon site

• Canon LASER SHOT LBP-1210 driver for windows 7 with 64 bit

  How to install Canon LASER SHOT LBP-1210 driver for windows 7 with 64 bit.

  See this post...

  http://answers.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows/Forum/Windows_7-hardware/Canon-laser-shot-LBP-1210-driver-for-winodows-7/9431fdf2-d7a5-47E2-A528-7cafd8966473

• Filter for Canon L lens

  I just got my first Canon L lens and after some research, I decided not to buy a UV filter as protection for the front glass element.  Then I can read the presentation (B & H) for the EF 16-45 mm F/4 L, which States that "when paired with an optional filter to Protect, this lens also features a dust and water resistant construction for use under adverse conditions. So now I'm confused: why a $1,200 L lens does need a "Protect filter? By "adverse conditions", what do mean?  Should all lenses L be fitted with a protective filter?  What would be a 'protective filter' recommended?  I'd appreciate some advice on this because I want to protect my investment in my L lens and consider making a recommended.

  Some 'L' series lenses are waterproof.  If you see a black silicone gasket to the mounting flange back, then chances are it's a goal and waterproof.  But you have to read the instructions for each specific objective know what it means.  A few lenses indicates that they are only waterproof only if a protection filter is attached.

  Weather sealing means that the lens is usually sealed against dust, rain and spray - but it is important to remember that this does NOT mean that the lens is "tight".  They are not sealed against water under pressure.  If you blast it with a spear of fire... you will probably get water inside.  Similarly, they will flee if submerged.  There is "underwater camera housings" available when you need the camera & the goal of being ready to go under the water.

  Furthermore, just because a lens is weather-sealed does not mean that the body of the camera is waterproof.  Only some camera body get weather sealing and the level of treatment varies.  Usually, intermediate and superior camera tend to have at least one treatment of the weather sealing, but even in this case, there are some obvious gaps.  The door of the memory card and battery door are two examples of places that have no weather seals.

  Other than that... There are a few downsides to having a UV filter.

  First of all, the camera has an internal UV filter, so the second filter does not really offer help in this Department.

  Second, a flat glass filter, it is able to create nice reflections that can be seen by the camera.  This can create 'ghosts' reflections and other effects undesirable undersireable.  The use of filters with anti-glare coatings will substantially reduce this problem, but these filters cost a bit more.  Also, they will simply 'reduce' substantial reflections but do not guarantee that you get no thoughts at all.

  The glass itself is durable enough.  Be gentle with it when clean you and you will never have a problem (use a soft 'clean' microfibre cloth).  The sun visor (even if you are not trying to protect from the glare) actually helps keep something striking the glass.  The hood is probably better protection than a UV filter.

• extension for Canon 6 d tube

  Hello, I'm looking for an extension tube for my Canon 6 d. I found a few different brand offering a set 13, 21 and 31 mm sets. They don't specify if they support the auto focus. I would have preferred a set that support of the auto focus.

  Do you have a suggestion? Thank you

  The tube macro set that includes the rather odd size 13mm, 21mm and 31mm made by Zeikos and sells a whole bunch of different brands (Bower, Vivitar, Jessops, ProOptic and many others). There are two qualities of these tubes, one with metal bayonet comes up and a less expensive version with plastic bayonet rises (as have some kit lenses). The bodies of these tubes are plastic and they support control AF and openness. All the facts for Canon will be fit very well on the your 6 d EF mount (someone with a Canon of harvest/EF-S camera will have to take care to buy later versions of these that support this mount if they want to use with the EF-S lenses, some more before those who do not). These tubes to sell for less than $100 US (the bayonet plastic are often closer to US $50). Three things worry me to their subject: they seem not very durable, I've heard some reports of their cracking over time. Release latch is a little beyond and can be accidentally pressed. And I've seen a few reports of them "frying" the circuits of the Canon 5 d models. The latter seemed to be very isolated cases and 31 mm tube seemed the culprit. I have not seen all the reports of problems with other Canon models.

  Opteka is doing a set of tube which is similar in construction - plastic body with mount bayonet metal - which also sells for less than $100 USD, but includes more traditional formats of the tubes of 12 mm, 20 mm and 36 mm. They also support the AF control and openness. The release button is slightly off, but I haven't used these and can't tell if it's much better that the tubes Ziekos (etc.). They are a relatively new feature, so only time will tell how sustainable they are.

  The Kenko tubes set's metal body and metal bayonet mounts, more comparable to the tubes that Canon are available (but only individually). Kenko all contained 12mm, 20mm and 36mm and sells for about $200 US. Older versions of this set (labeled "CA/AF") are the only mount EF lenses. Current version marked ' CA/AFs' (note the small 's') is used with the EF and EF-S. Of course, either will work on 6 d and EF lenses. The Kenko tubes also support the AF control and openness.

  Canon offers only individual tubes: 12 mm and 25 mm. The older original type are EF. The current 'Mark II' are EF a EF-S compatible. The construction is very similar to the Kenko and totally supports the AF control and openness. Indeed, Kenko also offers individual tubes in the same size. Both the Canon and the Kenko use a release button recessed enough that it is difficult to accidentally fall. Currently, the Canon tubes sell for about $85 for the 12mm and $140 for the 25mm.

  Finally, there are macro extension tubes really inexpensive who do not have electronic contacts to provide the AF control and openness. They are usually all metal construction, use different locking mechanisms and sell for less US $25 (sometimes even less than $10). Sizes included in a set usually are 12 mm, 20mm and 36mm.

  To be honest, who doesn't not AF during macro shooting is not really all that big a deal. It is often easier to focus manually blows high magnification. I often switch off AF and several of my macro lenses are put to manual focus only. Focus you by moving all camera and lens more closely or to keep him away from the subject. The lens ring, kind of serves more as a zoom, defining the degree of expansion. The fine adjustment of the development is done with the movement of the whole platform. This can be done by hand, or there are tools such as the stages of macro development prevail. allowing that with a high degree of accuracy... or with a lens that has a tripod mounting ring, if you use the Arca-Swiss quick release system, it is possible to use a plate of extra long lens like a development of "slider".

  More of concern is the ability to directly control the aperture, which is done electronically with gun and camera objectives, through controls on the camera body and the electronic contacts linking the two. High magnification means shallow depth of field, closing the diaphragm is often necessary. There are ways to vary the opening with the really cheap tubes that do not have electronic contacts, even with the modern camera and lens. But it's a pain in the anus. Personally, I would only use and recommend the really cheap tubes for use on adapted lenses, vintage which have a control ring of the aperture on the lens itself.

  But most tubes discussion (Canon, Kenko, Zeikos/etc. and Opteka) provide electronic contacts, so control AF and the opening are fully supported.

  What purpose do you intend to use with the camera and extension tubes? More focal length, the extension you will need to significantly increase the magnification. But too short focal length can put you too close to the subject. Mostly for use on a FF camera a lens in the 70mm to 135mm range is a good compromise of adequate working distance, but handholdable and not requiring not too much expansion. You can stack many tubes for a whole bunch of extension, but it can become risky with too many tubes. Best to use as little as possible.

  I'm a big fan of extension tubes... were their use with various systems for 25 + years and always have some on hand just in case they are needed. They can also improve the ability to narrow focus of a large telephoto lens. They are easy to use and having no light inside, have little negative effect on the quality of the image.

  I currently use with my kit Canon Canon 12 mm (2 X), 25mm and an older set of Kenko. Over the years, I have used lenses from 20 mm to 500 mm, 24-70, 70-200 and 28-135 mm Zoom. I sometimes use with macro lenses, too... to stimulate their magnification higher that 1:2 or 1:1 the lens alone offers.

  My recommendation... Buy a good game and you're going to buy them only once. There is little wear and macro extension tubes are versatile, useful and easy to slip into the corner of your camera with you bag all the time.  IMO the Kenko game offers the best value (but I have not seen or used the new Opteka set has been presented, so can't really compare).

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• I need lenses for Canon 6 d

  Hello

  I just bought my 6 d with EF 24-105mm f / 4L IS USM lens. I'm new in the world of photography canon so I'm still confused about what lenses should I own suits my needs. I need especially my goal to take pictures at my gym where I teach karate classes, the room is about 50 * 50 feet, I am planing to take pictures for the students, while peferoming karate moves so I want to take pictures for the whole team that for sure needs a wide-angle lens but I know not the focal length I need and if it has zoom the goal or not. Addinng to this use I need as well to take pictures for my new born baby and occations of my other child such as birthdays, school events...

  Thank you in advance

  I might consider getting the EF 50 mm f1/.4 USM.

  I imagine that you will use this to capture images of students performing moves - they are 'on the move '.

  During motion capture, you can (a) use a shutter speed faster to 'freeze' the action, or (b) use a slightly slower shutter speed to allow the image implies a sense of motion blur (and sometimes, it's actually a more compelling.)

  Photograph of Interior with faster shutter speeds is delicate, because usually the light is weak (Fortunately the 6 d has a high ISO range.)  But it helps to have a goal which collects naturally much more light.

  Your 24-105mm lens has a maximum ratio of focal f/4.  The report describes the number of times the diameter of the free opening in the lens (opening) can be divided into the focal length.  This means that to, say, 100mm... the aperture of the lens is able to dilate and 25mm wide and 25mm is divided into 100mm exactly four times, it is a lens ' f/4' (the aperture blades may contract smaller... the value printed on the lens always describe the report using the largest possible opening size.)

  A 50mm f/1.4 lens collects literally EIGHT times more light.  This means that he can use a shutter speed to eight times faster than the 24-105mm... or it can use a lower ISO setting (to reduce the 'noise' in the image).

  I am also considering a lens based on subject framing.  You can use the calculator 'dimensions of field' on this Web site: http://www.tawbaware.com/maxlyons/calc.htm

  So imagine that you want to capture a student doing a kick in which you believe, you will need a framework at least 10' high.  You can use the calculator to determine what focal length of a given distance, you'll need to capture that.  If I plug a 50mm lens, guess I'll be 20' away from the student, and then I can plug these two values.  There is a third value, which is the "focal length multiplier" (also known as the "crop factor").  Your 6 d is a "full frame" camera, which means that the factor of cropping (or multiplier) is always exactly '1' (if you had a camera with a sensor size of APS - C... a little... then your crop factor sensor would be 1.6).

  If I access the '50' for the focal length of the lens, '1' to multiply the focal length and '20' to my distance to the subject and click the "compute" button, it tells me that the physical framework of the distance dimensions is 9' 7.2 "high (in the vertical direction) and 14' 4.8" wide in the horizontal direction.  It is a comfortable (close enough to 10') frame to frame the subject and perhaps also their target.

  I could try other lenses too...  I could plug in 85mm as the focal length, but I try to change the distances to get a similar framing and I discovered that at 85mm, I really need about 35 feet away (instead of 20' far away.)

  You can imagine how go to higher focal lengths will be able to get to a point where you run lack of space in your room 50' because if your subject is in the middle of the room, you have about 25' and your back is against the wall, trying to get this shot.  That's why... I think that 50mm is probably a good lens (again this is based on the assumption that you want to capture a vertical height of approximately 10'.)

  A bit of caution... When you use a lens with a report f / d below, the depth of field (an imaginary Beach distances to your intended focus distance over which subjects seem to be in acceptable focus) becomes narrower.

  With a 50mm using f/1.4 lens and a lens focused at a distance of 20', the 'depth of field' is a little over 4' thick... distance of 18.1 ' through 22.3 ' will appear to be reasonably acceptable point.

  Compare that to f/4 (using the same focal length and 20' 50 mm) and the depth of field is 12.7 ' thick... distance of 15.5 ' through 28.2 ' are in acceptable focus.

  You can see that, while the report f / f/1.4 d collect eight times more light, it happens to a compromise in the depth of field (btw, a lot of people really LIKE the blurred background and do their best to get the effect).

  If your subject distance changes, then you'll want to use the mode of development of "AI Servo" (instead of the mode of development of the default camera 'One Shot') which causes the camera constantly reevaluate and tweak attention than your distance to the subject changes (in 'One Shot' mode it will carry only until she Achieves a lock... and then stops focusing even if your subject is moving and distance) is no longer valid.)

  Flash: You ask about flash, but I thought I would offer this because it's something I would probably consider doing in this situation.

  It becomes a bit complicated because of the 'synchro-flash max' speed (on the 6 d speed is 1/180th second shutter speed)  This is not fast enough to 'freeze' the action if this action is at a relatively high speed.

  The camera uses two "curtains" (doors) that slide on the sensor.  When taking a picture, you open to start the show... a moment later, the second, are closed.  The doors have a maximum speed of physics that they can move to open or close.  On your camera, a shutter speed of 1/180th second or slower allows a door to open COMPLETELY, then the flash (Exhibitor the entire sensor to light) and then close the second door.  A speed faster than 1/180th requires that the second door already begin before the end of the first opening of the closing door.  So to create pictures of high speed, the first door left open but the second door begins suite - expose really just a "slot" of light that sweeps the sensor.  This allows your camera to use shutter speeds that are faster that the doors can actually move.  If a flash fire when there is only a slit exposed, while part of the sensor exposed by this crack Gets the benefit of the light.

  It deals with issues like a flash that support the mode "sync high speed ' with enough power for multiple light chips needed when using high-speed sync.   This means pulse flash quickly because the shutter works so well that each part of the sensor has Flash.  But as the flash needs to perform several bursts, then single burst may trigger the 'full' power because the flash has book enogh power for all the necessary pieces.  It is useful to have a powerful flash in particular (as Canon 600EX-RT).

  You can also use mode "sync second curtain" If you normally involves movement... when using a flash, the first door opens, then flash fires... and wait for the camera on the amount of time needed for your show time... and THEN close the second door.  But if something is moving, it means you get a bright subject (in flash) and then the ambient light continues to bring a bit of light on your subject that continues to shift.  This dimmer light on the moving subject creates a ghost trail... but the trail is "in front" of your subject, rather than 'behind' your topic - following, so it seems a little strange.

  "Second curtain" mode involves the camera to delay the release of the flash, just before the second door closes.  This puts this drag ghost 'behind' your topic.

  BTW, this second option (which implies the query using a flash on mode "on the 2nd curtain sync" while using a slow shutter speed deliberately) also helps the camera much better capture the background exposure of the room (we call this technique "dragging the shutter" because we deliberately use a slower than necessary shutter speed when using a flash).

• Camera Raw Support for Canon 7 d MkII

  Just try to get an idea if I should spend the $99.00 to buy at the Apple Store opening.  This may seem a little over the top, but the workflow, I miss by not having not RAW support in Lightroom is worth the expense of buying from opening.

  I find it very disappointing that Adobe do not have as the support yet for the new Canon 7 D MkII.  It is a VERY popular camera.

  Mostly I find this slowness on the part of very disappointing Adobe because they sell CC buy saying: "you always up-to-date software.  When you think Apple and Google Picasa have already taken care of the Canon 7 d MkII.  I might add that they had both for the camera within days of its release on October 31.

  So, after my little mug shot.

  Someone from Adobe can advise when we see Camera Raw support the new Canon 7DMkII?

  Although it is in beta, I'd be very happy to be a beta tester.  I have extensive experience in software testing and would be ready to do the beta-test structure.  I would be very happy if someone on Adobe Labs would contact me to Beta test for the 5 d MkII 7 Camera Raw support.

  Kind regards

  Tom Croll

  We have just released the new support for the 5 d MkII 7 with Lightroom 5.7. Here are the details from the release: 5.7 now available Lightroom

  Let us know how it goes.

  Kind regards

  Pete

• I upgraded to firefox 3.6 beta 3 for firefox 12 and now, none of the sites Spruz I own or am administrator on just shows the Member of the groups of pictures are huge

  I upgraded to firefox 3.6 beta 3 for firefox 12 and now, no sites Spruz I own or am admin on watch just the Member groups, photos and videos are huge...

  My site about Spruz shows members of the groups, photos and great videos... Instead of members photos taking place a 1 1/2 X 4 space (3 rows) in the upper left corner of my site, they are falling is greater than the length of the first page in single file... Groups and videos take place amid all the first page...

  As I have something that is compatible with the site that I admit needs to be corrected... It appears that way on all Spruz sites I belong to...

  I can get the photos to display in 3 columns, if I do this:

  Orange Firefox button or classic menu Tools > Options > content

  In the section fonts and colors, click on the Advanced... button.

  Change Minimum font size None and OK out of Options.

  But most people won't do that. I prefer a minimum of at least 10 font size.

  Then... How to fix it. How the thumbnails are size, is that they 10em with a font size of basis of 5px. If the minimum size is set to 10px, double images in height and width.

  It would be more logical if the base in your style sheet font size was larger. Can change you it? If so, try to double the font size and to halve the size of the relative picture:

  In http://languagesofourancestors.spruz.com/dhtml/corestyle/xstyle.css

  
  /*All Cards Small*/
  .SUI-UserPic.small, .SUI-ImageCard.small, .SUI-VideoCard.small { font-size: 10px;}
  

  
  /* User Pics */
  (4 lines down)
  .SUI-UserPic .SUI-CardImage { display: block; width: 5em; height: 5em; overflow: hidden; border: 1px solid #aaa; border-radius: 2px; -moz-border-radius: 2px; -webkit-border-radius: 2px;}
  .SUI-UserPic .SUI-CardImage img { width: 5em; min-height: 5em; border: 0 none;}
  .SUI-UserPic .PopInfo {line-height: normal; display: none; width: 140px; position: absolute; z-index: 2; top: 4em; left: 0; margin: 0 auto;}
  

  I think that will be more widely compatible. There may be some details that I missed, but hope this helps.

  I don't know why the minimum font size has not been applied as well in Firefox 3.6, but I suspect that this is the new normal.

• Has anyone got the upgrade of GPU for H8-1234 with motherboard HP M3970AM HP (Angelica2)?

  I improved my diet for a Corsair CX series CX500M 500W ATX 80 Plus Bronze modular power supply 12V successfully and I want to assure you that I have buy a compatible GPU for the motherboard.

  If I go to http://www.pc-specs.com/mobo/HP/HP_M3970AM-HP (Angelica2) _ / 2042 and click on compatible GPU it lists AMD and Nvidia cards.

  The series of HD AMD goes up to the HD6000 series and does not list any HD 7000 series.

  The only Nvidia 600 series which is decent is the GeForce GTX-660-670-680 or 690.

  The site also shows (these graphics cards have an appropriate interface to work with and integrate into the HP M3970AM - (Angelica2). Because this motherboard does not have a GPU chip on board, we have also limited GPU integrated only to those which are integrated to die of a CPU.)

  Cards GTX listed are all much more expensive than 650 Ti DirectCU OC Boost 1085 MHZ 2 GHz 6.0 GB GDDR5 2xDVI card PCI-E HDMI DP that is not listed or even GTX550 TI, which is not listed

  The Amd HD listed series cards are unavailable or more expensive than most of the HD 7000 series.

  Has anyone successfully installed a card $ 100 from low to medium priced which is a significant improvement on the hd 7450? If you could please let me know what graphics card you purchaced.

  Thank you

  Gbrown13, welcome to the forum.

  The limiting factor for the video card upgrade is the power supply unit (PSU).  It is 300W.  Intermediate level maps latest require at least 400W to work properly.  7450 HD comes with the computer has been designed for HP operate with OEM PSU.  A detail 7450 HD very probably would not work.  In addition, you should limit the length of the video card to no more than 9 ".  This ensures that it fits in the space provided.  The majority of the double cards are 1.5 "wide.  These are normally without any problems.

  I hesitate to recommend a video card on the grounds that it will be much better than an existing map.  It is difficult to say that this is the case.  Here is a map which might work for you, with an upgrade of the power supply.  Read the reviews to see what users have to say about it.

  If your problem is solved, please click "accept as a Solution.

• If win 2003 is upgraded for the 2008 edition, it will fix alingment compensate for the problem with the SAN disks?

  If win 2003 is upgraded for the 2008 edition, it will fix alingment compensate for the problem with the SAN disks?

  Hi elvirkaric,

  Your question in Windows Server 2008 is more complex than what is generally answered in the Microsoft Answers forums. It is better suited for the IT Pro TechNet public. Please post your question in the TechNet Forum. You can follow the link to your question:

  http://social.technet.Microsoft.com/forums/en-us/w7itproinstall/threads

• Legal to use "For DISTRIBUTION only with a NEW or HP Compaq PC" CD sent AFTER the purchase of the REFURBISHED computers?

  Several months after the purchase of a refurbished laptop factory small business HP,
  I came across some problems that I have contacted HP.

  HP sent me (with no extra charge) a set of 2 CDs, both marked
  "For DISTRIBUTION only with a NEW HP or Compaq PC" (underlining)
  and protected by HP (with portions by Microsoft).

  The 2 CD of this set of CD XP Pro DR/OS were:
  Operating system CD
  Application and Driver Recovery DVD

  Since:
  1. the PC was a PC refurbished, rather than another.
  2. the CD set was sent AFTER my purchase, rather than be distributed with it.
      
  I was always a little uneasy on this subject, but had never asked about it before.

  Is it legal to use these CD with my PC HP refurbished?

  Thank you.

  -RJ, USA

  The key words here are "HP refurbished factory."

  That's why since you received the media to "HP" its legal. Recovery media is automatically sent to end users like you to a number of PC makers, with HP being one of many.

  J W Stuart: http://www.pagestart.com

• The highest recording quality for Canon Vixia HF R500?

  What is the recording of high quality for Canon Vixia HF R500?

  Is it AVCHD 60 p 28 Mbps or 60 p 35 Mbps MP4?

  The MP4 format high sampling rate means that it is of a higher quality recording or not?

  Greg

  Hi Greg_Jay!

  Thank you for posting.

  The highest quality is MP4 60 p 35 Mbps.  As a general rule, the higher bit, better is the quality.

• Settings for Canon Rebel XT

  I have a Canon Rebel XT with a Canon EF - 5 18-55mm lens, and I need help on how to configure the camera for taking quality photos of small objects for resale on the internet.  I have a light box and 2 lights tungston, but I'm having a hard time getting a clear image with a white background.  Right now I'm taking pictures of pens to ball. Any help would be really appreciated.  Thank you

  If you're having trouble getting sharp images, you might have problems DOF or depth of field, which describes the distance range of the camera subjects are made the point clear.  Take photos of 'products', such as pens, begins to cross the line in macro photography, which is the art of photographing the very small.

  http://digital-photography-school.com/top-5-tips-on-how-to-photograph-food/

  http://digital-photography-school.com/macro-photography-for-beginners-part-1/

  Remember, smaller apertures will give you a greater DOF, but may require more light.  You will get sharper photos with the lowest ISO setting, which may also require more light.  Finally, it's good to take a long exposure of stationary objects.  Your camera must be able to do it for you in Av mode, constant aperture, with ISO set to 100.